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Welcome back to the Clean Sailors podcast.

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Let's talk about sailing, our marine industry and innovations towards getting it clean.

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I'm your host Holly, founder of Clean Sailors and a sailor myself with a passion for the

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health of our mighty oceans. Through conversations with innovators, inventors, adventurers and

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inspirational sailors, we're looking at those who are helping to change the way things are done.

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Okay, she's back. I'm joined again by Ella Hibbet, who you won't remember from a podcast

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episode we did earlier in 2024. Ella is gearing up for a solo Arctic Circle, attempting the world's

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first single-handed non-stop circumnavigation of the Arctic, but also importantly raising

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awareness of the environmental challenges that we have going on up north. Ella, it's so good to see

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you again. Thanks for having me back. So what was the purpose of this year's trip?

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So this summer's trip was really about trialing and testing both the yacht and myself. Obviously,

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Javer underwent quite an extensive reset for the first half of 2024, from generally up until sort of

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June-July. So it was about getting out there and making sure the boat was up to the standards we're

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looking for, making sure that I loved single-handing as much as I was hoping I would, and also trying

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to push north and start raising awareness for the campaign that we're building and showcasing the

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reasons why I'm doing what I'm doing. So this was a test run in every sense. The boat, yourself,

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the passage, just getting a sort of understanding of the, in some ways, I imagine also like the

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weather systems. Yeah, absolutely. All of the above, really. It was just time for Javer and I to

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get out there and put up anywhere on my clothes, you know, and do everyone proud and show the

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sponsors that we're all heading the right way and getting geared up for next year's attempt.

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What were you perhaps most aware of or nervous about before you left for this test run?

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I think how I was going to handle sleep deprivation and being offshore alone. I mean,

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I've had every confidence in the boat from the get-go, but this was my first sort of

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extensive single-hander trip. So yeah, I'm glad that I took to that as well as I was hoping I would.

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I think the important thing is, right, as you said, smart to do the test run on every level,

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but also the fact that you've come back and you are still gearing up to go next year,

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because I appreciate objectively there is always the opportunity for people to say,

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you know what, that was enough. But you're really raring to go for the...

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Yeah, I think that was part concern, mostly probably from my family, that I might turn

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around after doing what I did this summer and say, actually, I hate it that and I don't want to do it

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again. But it was quite the opposite. I loved every moment. Even when things were less than ideal,

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I was still loving it. So yeah, the Ava's back in the yard and fixing up a couple of issues we

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found this summer, which is helpful in hindsight because those who have been following the campaign

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from the beginning might know that the original plan was to attempt the second navigation this

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summer before postponing to be able to get these trials done. And without doing that,

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I would have encountered some issues during the second half that probably would have

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hindered our attempt at it. So yeah, we're fixing all those up and yeah, definitely just excited

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to get back out there. I've been online for about four weeks now and I've had enough already.

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I mean, just I want to be really clear also, right? If you had done that and if anyone has

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attempted or done the trial run and then decided it's not for them, that's completely legit, right?

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I mean, it's just very impressive that this is something that genuinely hasn't been done before

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what you're attempting. And so not only is it super prudent and obviously smart, but also just that

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exercise of extending yourself into that physical environment on your own. I mean,

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giving the goose pimples again, so many times that we talk because it really is exceptional.

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It's exceptional in terms of the adventurousness and obviously the ingenuity of everything

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you're doing to prepare your boat, etc. But also because it is genuinely uncharted to the extent

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that no one has yet managed to do what you're looking to achieve next year. So it's no small

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feat, Ella. Just going to say it like that. Thank you. Yeah, no, it isn't. But I think

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the way that I recognise it is slightly different to how it must be seen for people looking in on

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what's going on. So if I allow myself time to sit and think about how nuts it probably is,

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then it wouldn't be being done. So it's all very modular at the moment, keeping everything

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in mind. I think about mental health is working through the list of what I need to do to do

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now or next year and just keeping focus rather than getting caught up in how extreme of an event

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it might be or thinking about what happens when I get back from it. It's one step at a time.

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I remember actually talking on your boat before you left about things like sleep deprivation,

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because also Liz Aileen, that's obviously a big concern or let's say opportunity for self-awareness.

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How did you manage that in the end? And is that still something that you feel most aware of or

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very aware of or nervous about still going forward? I don't feel as nervous about it anymore, no. So

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when I sailed this year, we sailed up the noise and coast, gave it a night to Tromso and then

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sailed from Tromso to Svalbard and Svalbard back to Tromso. So those two crossings of the Barren

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Sea were seven days each. And at no point in either crossing did I sleep for more than 20 minutes at a

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time. So I found pretty quickly that 20 minutes was the right time for me, 15 or 25 or 30. I would

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wait up either not rested enough or too groggy. So 20 minutes was really the perfect number.

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And I found it much easier to get into the pattern of sleeping 20 minutes at a time than to get out

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of it once I got back to land. Like I said, I only pursued it up to a week at a time, but I feel like

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I could push that to about 10 days if I had to. A lot of next year's circle navigation is going to

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be coastal. And there will be opportunities in periods of open water to hope to and get longer

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sleeps or if needs be to drop the hook or attach to an ice flow or do what I also need to not have

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to push that seven day to 10 day sort of limit. But I'm confident that I could do a week at a time

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if needs be of those 20 minute sleep cycles. So definitely please don't access those.

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But we said that you found your medium, right? Because it's easy to say, well, you'll read

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books like there's a fantastic one on Xtreme, you know, it's how people sort of go into environments

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where they are, you are stretching your natural body rhythms or otherwise. And you almost can't

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write it and say, actually, you can manage it say two hours or 20 minutes or 10 minutes.

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The fact that you found your personal optimum, I think it's so important, isn't it? Because

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that's what your body needs. That's what your mind needs enough for you to continue and sort of be

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rested, but certainly just aware and alert. You know, 20 minutes like work for everybody,

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but it works for me. And if I can get enough 20 minutes that I'm averaging,

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anywhere between three to four hours of sleep in a 24 hour period, then I'm pretty good.

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If I'm not getting enough 20 minute naps that I'm getting sort of less than two hours

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sleep every 24 hours, then I'll start to struggle. But that's sort of three to four hour

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in a 24 hour period seems to work quite well. And then obviously more if you can and

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in the crack on if you can't.

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And what were you surprised at? And perhaps what were you genuinely not prepared for in this test run?

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I think on the crossing two Svalbard from Tromso, in the middle of the Barents Sea,

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Yeva suffered total steerage failure and flooding to the floorboards. Now,

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I'd had issues with the steering that I'd sort of jury rigged on an office we went,

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and I'd had the flooding and I'd never had both happened at the same time.

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So the issues there were two parts. So the flooding stems from the fact that the anchor locker

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didn't have any outboard drainage. It had a drainage pipe that led to the bilges inside the

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boat. So Javer's got a hollow keel, which is a meter 75 of draft, which is a lot of water

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for a 38 foot boat to get stuck in the bilges. So what we didn't realise with neither of the other

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owners having particularly done any sort of heavy weather offshore sailing like the five meters I

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was in in the barrens was we didn't realise quite how much water that was going to let in

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to the point where the bilge pumps were sort of pumping all the time consistently and after

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nine or 10 hours would just fail. So that was one half of the issue. And then the other half was

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the steering, which is kind of hard to explain without drawing it on a piece of paper. But

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essentially you've got the the rudder shaft and the rudder quadrant and the rudder quadrant was

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held to the shaft by a keyway system like a male to female connector with four grub screws to keep

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it in place. And with the bashing about in seas that heavy, the grub screws weren't enough to hold

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the quadrant to the shaft. So it's slid off of the bottom of that male connector, which meant that

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so obviously the hydraulic arm for the autopilot and the manual steering arm for the for the cockpit

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helm were both connected to that one rudder quadrant. So total steerage failure of the boat

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essentially at that point. So luckily in order to mitigate issues like that, I'd already thought of

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backup systems to backup systems. So I had the hydrovane on the back of the boat, which I used

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for two days to get over into Longyear Bayonins Fulvard parking a steel boat on the hydrovane.

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It's not something I want to try and do again, but we managed to get in. It was nearly midnight,

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but it was obviously light because it was the Arctic summer up there. So it wasn't an issue

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parking out other than the handling of the boat itself. And then the flooding obviously had

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spare bilge pumps and I could wire those in. But in that particular scenario, it was more of a case

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of pumping out manually and then steering on hydrovane to avoid the waves coming from the

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wrong direction back over the bow because I didn't have enough wind at moments to leave the

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hydrovane confidently searing whilst I went and started stripping and soldering wires and electrics

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to get bilge pumps reconnected. So those are the two main issues that the Yevas having six at the

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moment. Actually, they've both been six now. That's what we've been working on the last couple

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of weeks. So she's had a bunch of welding done and drainage holes cut in the bow and that pipe

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bunged off that used to lead to the bilges. And we've made a clamp for her steering that'll stop

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the rudder quadrant coming down again. So yeah, those have been resolved now. So she's ready for

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a new liquor paint and some anti-fouled and then we'll get back in the water hopefully.

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I like your talent to my question because in asking what weren't you prepared for,

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it was a very honest and kind of what didn't you know could happen that happened.

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And it is fascinating that you had all of the preparation and norm as the backup to the

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backups as you described, but preparing for the two of them coinciding at the same time was

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um you know on paralleled. Obviously, it's quite a unique event in any sense for them both to occur

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at the same time, let alone being solo sailing up in you know Northern Europe. Yeah, it was a bit

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of an overload to the system that they both happened at the same time. And then you know,

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steering on the hydrovan obviously when there's no wind. So part of the reason that I bought Yeva

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obviously is because of the doghouse to keep me out of the elements. Now coming into Longyear by

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and it was raining freezing cold sleep and I was manually steering on the hydrovan under

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engine to come into port. So set up on deck holding onto that hydrovan in everything every layer that

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I possibly owned. Pretty odd and miserable. But yeah, I managed to jury rig a fix to the steering

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that managed to get us back to Scotland. But ultimately it was the repeated flooding of the

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anchor locker into the bilges of the boat that caused me to sort of end the summer sea

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charts in Scotland and work on getting Yeva back home. Makes a lot of sense and as we described

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the subsequent stormy weather and prevailing south-westerly, nastelies that we've had over

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the last like two months. Makes a lot of sense to focus on the fixes and getting ready for next year.

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Yeah, it's about having enough time in the spring to go and sea trial knowing that I've still got

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time to come back and reinforce it. It's not quite up to standards yet. Hope it would be. I mean,

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now rain who have been working on the boat in the yard have done a cracking job. So

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not anticipating any more issues, but we'll find out when I come and see you in Falmouth in January.

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Yes, storm chasing, you will be. But it's still, I mean, I have to say, I was going to ask you.

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I mean, a very natural question is, so what are some of your highest moments? And arguably,

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if I'm an outsider sort of listening to you and, you know, seeing in some ways like the seriousness,

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but also the sort of fondness of which you're talking at, there's like, that has to be one of

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it. I mean, that that is in itself such of achievement to be able to pull all of that together,

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relying entirely on yourself to be able to, you know, get the duro exorted and get back to

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Scotland. And, you know, I appreciate sitting outside and like seemingly minus 10 breezes when

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it's sleeting and you're like, it's the North Coast and Norway is a really tough situation to be in.

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And yet you're, you know, there with your hand on the hydro rain, getting yourself into port. I mean,

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that has to in some ways, you know, register as a big achievement and hopefully some really

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high moments of what you've learned so far. Yeah, it does. It's one of those things that

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I need to get better at is probably giving myself credit when it's due,

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but rather than just thinking about what comes next and cracking on. But it was, yeah, it was

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very rewarding to be able to fix the oversteering with what I had on the boat and get her home.

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Yeah, it was not without its challenges, but I feel like those are the moments when I really

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came into myself because I just loved it. You know, I sent one of the lads on my shorty

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a message on the sat phone from the middle of the bar and saying, you know, boats going

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around in circles need to investigate steering. And he sent me a text back saying, why don't you

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have a nap? And then maybe you'll find that it's fine to get a... And I was like, as much as I

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understood his point, he didn't word that very well. I said, I don't need another nap. I'm gonna say,

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did you do failure? You know, so it was the last one I needed it really. But yeah, no, I loved it.

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I love the challenge of it. And seeing, you know, seeing where we got to, I mean, even just going

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to Svalbard, which isn't really on the routing for next year. So it's somewhere that I'm bad.

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I got to see this summer, but seeing things like while Braluga whales, you know, is filming up the

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fjord in front of the boat and glaciers and the walruses and the Arctic turns. I mean, it was just

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an incredible, incredible experience and environment. Yeah, really chuffed with it.

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I think also your trip coincided with some of the most spectacular

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activity of the Roroboialis. Yeah, on the way back from Svalbard, I saw them a couple of times,

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once off the north coast of Norway, and then once actually coming into Inverness in Scotland,

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where we finished our sea trials. No stunning. Obviously, when I was up in Svalbard, that was

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all Arctic daylight, Arctic summertime. So the night navigation started on the way back and as

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did the Northern Lights, which was a good way of keeping you motivated at three o'clock in the morning.

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Yeah, nowhere more spectacular in some ways to be viewing them than on your own, on your boat,

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on an expedition like that, in the middle of the Northern Sea. I mean, bit of a pinch me moment,

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I'm sure. It was definitely an emotional one. Yeah, there might have been a couple of tears

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shed at that. Yeah, they're stunning. On that point, Ella, always like candidly, what were some of

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the lowest points for you? The things that just either got too much or were frustrating. I mean,

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appreciate that message from your shore team would have been either you laugh or you cry.

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Right. The absolute lowest point was leaving Shetland. The intention when I left Shetland was

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to sail to the northeastern coast of Scotland and start making my way down the east coast of England

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to come home. Now, I've been waiting in Shetland, waiting out some storms to blow over. We had

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sort of 68 knots of wind in the North Sea that I certainly wasn't set in sailing to. But knowing

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that Yeva couldn't cope with a lot of water coming over the bow meant trying to route around as much

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as the weather and the waves as possible. So Shetland, yeah, with the intention of going to

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northeast Scotland. And after about eight or nine hours of waves on the nose again, found the boat

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flooded to the floor once more. One of the two bilge pumps had failed, not both of them at that

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point. So I had to make the decision to divert to Fair Isle, which I don't know if anyone listening

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has been into Fair Isle, but if you have, you'll know that it is an incredibly narrow entrance

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where you've got a cliff on one side, rocks on the other. And it's pitch-black dark. There's no

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lighting of any voyage. There's no lighting once you get into the bay. So getting in there in the

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absolute chucking rain in between sort of running downstairs to manually pump back outside onto the

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steering, trying to get sails down, heading into this bay. Once I got into the breakwater and I was

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out of the waves, I still couldn't even see the dock that I was supposed to be docking on. And

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through my torch, through the rain, couldn't see it either. So I was just sat in the middle of this

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bay trying to keep her off of the shadows, trying to get the sails down. So sort of running from

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the helm station to the sails to the manual bilge pump to the helm station to the sails,

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trying to get benders out. Until finally, these two guys came down to the dock and lit up the

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floodlights and sort of lit up the dock at about, this must have been about two or three o'clock in

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the morning, and came and took my lines and helped get you over ashore. And that was the moment I

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really sort of felt like I'd had in arse. That was quite a spectacle over the evening. So the

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following morning, I slipped lines just after eight and re-diverted to Wick. And then in that

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crossing, sort of 80 miles to Wick or whatever it was, I managed to keep her more beam onto the

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sails so she wouldn't flood again. And then waited in Wick for the right conditions to be able to

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get to the NES where we finally put her on a truck for the way home because the flooding was just,

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I mean, that was about the fourth time she flooded through the anchor locker by that point.

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So I mean, I'm sitting here, no one can see me but I mean, generally aghast and I have almost,

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I have got goosebumps because as a combination of factors, I think most people, I think, would

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guard against being in this kind of context. Obviously, when you almost are choice less,

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let's say, or certainly it's the best choice to be making out of an unpalatable bunch of choices.

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Well done. I mean, that's bloody good. Sea person ship.

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Not quite that way. Yeah, it was a relief to get her in this open sound and then obviously get us

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back to mainland safe and sound, but it was quite intense. Emotional and sort of physical few days,

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those ones. There was a lot going on. But we got there in the end, we got back safe and

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very much. It's incredible. I mean, it's obviously so exciting, yeah, listening to you,

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but I also appreciate it. I think my threshold may have been a little bit lower than your

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threshold. I should have given that. I probably would have cried at your friend's message. Put it out.

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That's what you know, when you haven't got choice, you've just got to get on with it. In part,

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I probably have my dad to thank for that sort of military mindset approach to things. But

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you deal with it, deal with the emotions later, just get on, get yourself safe and sorted and

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yeah, I'm pretty much myself that I'm capable of doing that.

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Hello, when we were sitting on your about the summer week, we had, I remember looking at your

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fantastic charts of literally the Arctic, right? And to the untrained eye appreciating, obviously,

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you understand the geography of the system, but we're talking about the sort of literally the apex

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of the planet and the way that the wind and the air moves as well as the water isn't like

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obviously any other coastline on the planet. What did you notice? Like what was the weather

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like in the general climate in terms of the temperature and the wind and the precipitation?

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And is that something that you had expected? To be honest, both Norway and Svalbard were a lot

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warmer than I would have ever have anticipated. So in Tromso, we were walking around in shorts and

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T-shirts and Svalbard just two days before I arrived there reached a record temperature of 22 degrees

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Celsius this year, which is mad because the extent now where there is current debate happening,

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whether Svalbard is still allowed to be classified as Arctic desert or not, because the warmer

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temperatures have caused so much precipitation that there's so much more rain and runoff from

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the snow melting on mountains and into the fjord that they are currently redefining

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to whether Svalbard still fits that definition of Arctic desert. It was quite harrowing to see

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fast hand. Obviously, it's the first time I've been up there, but having videoed and documented

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what I did and putting it out online, I've received comments from people who would say,

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you know, we were there 10 years ago and wowed how different does it look now and, you know,

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what a shame to see that, you know, the fjords no longer freeze over like they used to and it was

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definitely eye-opening in that sense. And then as far as sort of pressure systems, there's definitely

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more heavy weather in the North Sea in the summer than I was possibly expecting. I was expecting

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it to probably get worse more towards September, but I was up there in July and August and still

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having to route around quite a lot of storms, but mostly purely because of the issues with

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the Ava rather than the not being able to be out in those conditions. And, you know, if we look at

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climate models and things at the moment, we'll see the polar jet stream drifting from the South

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and the whole world of change going on up there that we keep an eye on that makes forecasting

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next year's expedition quite difficult in the sense that there's no sort of prevailing wind

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that's consistent enough to know that I'll be beating into it for X-mantel miles and then

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sailing downwind for X-mantel miles like we're seeing from the Vondeglobes and stuff. It's a

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very unusual place to try and predict. Well, it's already unusual, isn't it? I think, like you said.

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And then this year, certainly, with it already being unusual just by virtue of its geography

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on the planet, and we're already seeing, I mean, this year has been incredibly pronounced in terms

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of odd weather. And I say that in just bucking the trend effectively. We've had this exceptional

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high pressure system sitting really high and this band of low pressure whacking Europe. I mean,

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for most of the year, I mean, you're in places like Italy as early as, say, April, in March time,

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just being under deluges of water. So you're combining those two factors, right, of the

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already changing climate, but also being in the most unique part of the planet arguably for weather

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systems. Yeah, absolutely. So a lot of next year's expedition is going to be rooted on the go

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almost. So there'll be a combination of my short team at home sending me updated models and

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info that they're seeing, but also me using my own eyeballs and common sense and knowledge of what

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cloud means, what's coming next and playing it almost not quite, I don't want to say by year.

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There's obviously going to be planning and support, but yeah, being over vigilant and

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updated forecast daily rather than relying on one for a three day prediction kind of thing.

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I think it's a poignant reminder in some ways about what your expedition was also

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to highlight and describing it firsthand. We initially began this conversation on that very

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premise around about our ice caps and how they've been perhaps the biggest, most referred to proxy

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for the alarming rate of temperature change on our planet, how they've been preserved for

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millions of years and now we're seeing exponential increase in the melting and your description

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of the sort of Svelbard Arctic desert changing is quite pronounced. I mean, it's these inhospitable

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and impassable and just somewhat remote and as you said, desert like areas are changing

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incredibly dramatically and that you even in Northern Norway and could experience that much

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ahead of even heading up as far as the, you know, into the Arctic Circle proper. I mean,

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that's quite something. Did that bring it home some way in terms of the charities that you're

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supporting and also the awareness raising element of your mission too?

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Yeah, it absolutely did. I think one of the big things that you find when you go up into the

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Arctic, whether it's on the Norwegian coast or up in Svelbard, is that everyone living there

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is acutely aware of what's going on around. Whereas, you know, down here on the South Coast

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of England or around the middle of the Caribbean, we might not be as in tune to what's happening

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up in the Arctic. So it did sort of boost that ambition to try and spread awareness and link

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people to what's happening up there better, but also to help the charities Pona Bears International

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and Ocean Conservancy with what they're doing. And that's what this whole campaign has always

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been based about, you know, is both raising awareness and helping NGOs that are out there

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trying to fight for a better future for the Arctic. So yeah, it really did bring all that home for me.

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And I think that's partly what has given me the boost and the energy to keep going through

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yet another winter shipyard reset to be able to get out there and really highlight what I'm trying to

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try and showcase next year.

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And given that this was also a bonding session between you and Yeva, your boat, right? I mean,

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that was an incredibly personal relationship. Did you notice, aside from obviously the opportunities

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for fixes like the anchor locker and the rudder fixing, did you notice that Yeva operate differently

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in that environment at all? And it sounds like an odd question, but I'm just thinking about, you know,

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the density of cold air in comparison to to wolf. I mean, that does change the way you sail, right?

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Yeah, it does. Fairman, like I said, we were up there in August this year, and it was unbelievably

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warm to sort of wreck on new highs. So we haven't yet had the sort of ice in the water experience

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that we'll be getting around the Northwest Passage in Greenland next summer. But Yeva handled the

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conditions beautifully. She's got a chined hull, which was amazing in the larger offshore seas.

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She's not so good in choppy waters trying to head up a fjord or a river. She's quite crap.

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It's choppy and close. I think that's fair, Ella.

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You know? Yeah, it's helped me get to know how to sail her, obviously, because we've only done

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sort of shorter passages around the South Coast, being the before this big trip.

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And now we've done well over three and a half thousand miles single-handed. And one of the things

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I really had to, you know, sort of urge myself to keep doing was to shake out a reef, you know,

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let her have more sail plan. I forget that she's a heavier, slower boat. So it's helped me, yeah,

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fine-tune my sail trim and sailing on her as well. But I've got every confidence in her. And I know

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I always have, despite the issues we had this year. So now that both of those have been fixed,

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yeah, I'm going to take some time off over Christmas to see my family and then hopefully

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get back out in January and go sailing on my baby boat again.

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I'm just really looking forward to it, eh?

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But like, yeah, it's very strange living in a house again after being on board

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this, only temporarily whilst she's out of the water.

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Well, I think on that note, and in the spirit of well-deserved rest of which you, more than most

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of us after this year, are perhaps in need of, particularly in view of your

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adventures upcoming. Ella, it's always such a pleasure. And Raymond looks forward to us

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discussing further over the course of next year and your adventures, what you find out about

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yourself, your boat, and as importantly, the ecosystem up north as you find out.

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Thank you so much for having me back and yeah, I can't wait to have another chat.

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Ella hit bit solo sailor and next year, attempting the world first non-stop

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circling navigation of the Arctic Circle. Thank you so much.

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Thank you.

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You've been listening to the Clean Sailors podcast for information on all episodes.

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And for more about Clean Sailors, head to CleanSailors.com.

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Thank you for listening and see you for the next episode.

