Welcome to Pawprint Academy, your blueprint to
raising better dogs. My name is Ryan, and I'll
be your host for this journey. I've got my trusty
co -host here, Brianna. Hello. And together,
we're bringing you real -world training insights
built on leadership, structure, and proven methods.
We record this podcast with live clients on the
line in one take with live, unscripted questions
and answers. At the end of the day, this podcast
is a lot more than just teaching your dog to
sit or stay. creating calmness and becoming the
kind of leader your dog truly needs. We do that
with our three pillar method of trust, obey and
perform. Together, we'll show you how these three
pillars shape every step of training. Thanks
for being here. Let's get started. Episode 10,
puppy biting and jumping. Teaching boundaries
early. So today, that is what we're talking about.
We have, if you haven't noticed, because I didn't
really announce it, we're kind of on a foundational
puppy block of group call subjects. There's about
four, five, six, seven of them. It started with
like puppy socialization. And then we talked
about potty training and crate training and now
puppy biting. And I'm trying to remember what
the next one was. Jumping. No, no. Puppy biting
and jumping. Yeah, yeah, yeah. Right now I'm
on the spot. No, I can't remember. It's building
confidence next. That's right. Yep. Confidence
building in the puppies. All right. So as we
break this down, it is welcome. Welcome to the
show. Before I get off track here, let me just
rein myself back in. Welcome to the show. Ten
episodes in. Who would have thought we would
have made it this far? We're still going strong.
As we break down the concepts of puppy biting
and jumping, this is not. always 100 % just about
puppies. So the puppy biting is kind of its own
like a behavior that you definitely see in young
dogs and puppies. But it can also be the same
type of mannerisms can exhibit themselves when
like We call it like mouthing, right? Or when
a dog has a hard mouth. Sometimes we'll say,
yeah, he's just got a really hard mouth. Well,
we can use some of the same techniques in order
to deal with that. And so that's what we're going
to talk about. Or if you have a puppy and maybe
he just bites you and leaves marks and things
because he doesn't realize that. he's hurting
you. Right. Yeah. That's right off the bat. That's
usually the biggest thing is that the puppies
just don't know that that's, that's not good.
Right. Yeah. They think it's fun. Right. Like
what do you do with a kid who, who bites when
he's little? Right. But that's the thing is like
babies don't bite, but what do they do? I don't
know. Scratch. What do they do? They scratch
kind of, but yeah, they like throw their hands
around. They just like slap basically. It's like,
you know. Right, hitting. Right. Yeah, yeah,
yeah. That's a better example. They just like
swing their arms around and they just don't know.
It's like babies all the time are like slapping
things and hitting things and it hurts. Right,
and little kids getting sent home from daycare
because they're just hitting everybody up in
here. Right, or even, I mean, before they even
get to daycare, they're still slapping like babies.
like come out of the womb like slapping with
their hands they're just like trying to figure
it out yeah that is what they do they're trying
to grab it at first but they can't like use their
fingers right so they're just way like yeah there's
watch out um all right once again it's been a
long week already it's only wednesday i'm holding
on um let me get back on track so puppy biting
and puppy jumping Both come from the same root
problem, just a lack of impulse control and a
lack of clear boundaries. So when we have a puppy,
and you can apply this if you don't have a puppy
at home and you have an adolescent dog or even
an older dog, there is probably some impulse
control things that we can always do better,
even if you have a great behaved dog. there's
always some impulse control things that we can
tweak and try to do better. So maybe some of
these tips will help. So puppies use their mouths
and their bodies to explore and test the world.
You either teach the rules now or things are
going to get worse. So dogs, a lot of times I
hear owners talk about how hopefully they grow
out of this. Maybe they'll just grow out of it.
But we often find that puppies more grow into
things than they grow out of things. Yeah, for
sure. And eventually. The behaviors or those
habits, right, they grow into bigger and harder
and riskier behaviors later. And so it's like
demand behavior. A simple demand paw or little
demand barking, whining, whimpering, things like
that, when you're not giving them a treat or
you're not giving them attention, it relatively
means nothing to us initially. But then it can
become a bigger issue. And so that's what we're
trying to head off. So to clarify, so clarifying,
let me rephrase, clarifying what behavior earns
attention and what behavior ends the fun you're
having can do wonders to explain to your dog,
who doesn't speak English, what. is expected
yeah and and what's not acceptable um and that's
eventually going to teach your puppy how to channel
all of that energy into something productive
rather than something destructive and that's
really really important so um major point number
one why do puppies bite and jump You want to
jump on that one? Yeah. A couple different reasons.
Depends on where the puppy's at and its stages,
right? So one, it could be teething. Yeah. If
they're teething, they're going to chew on things,
right? Or like gnaw on things. Two is they think
it's fun. It's turned into like a game most of
the time, right? That's how they play. Right.
Because when a puppy bites you. Yeah. Usually
it's not comfortable. Right. It might start with
like, oh, it's so cute. Yeah. And but then it
gets like uncomfortable. And and that's usually
when you move the fastest. Yeah. So like when
your hands, which look like tasty treats to a
puppy, they bite at your skin or something. And
when they actually hurt you. One of the number
one things that we do is we reel back real fast.
And that immediately speaks to their genetic
code of prey drive. And they're like, whoa, look
at that. That thing moved so fast. That's so
fun. And then their drive for that steps up even
higher. That is where we start to see this concept
that I talk about a lot, which is self -gratifying
behavior. At the point where the dog doesn't
need you to reinforce the behavior and they get
what they want out of the behavior by doing it,
that one is hard to break because they don't
need you to reinforce it anymore. Or, so we were
talking about biting like hands, feet, stuff
like that. But this could also be puppy biting
and then chewing, right? Puppies grabbing shoes
and then running off with them. All of this stuff,
all of these behaviors, they really relate to
the same thing, which is the puppy is finding
something that is attractive to them. They're
interacting with it with their mouth for a number
of different reasons, but probably because it's
fun and it's engaging and it's exciting. And
then we make it even more exciting because that's
when we get loud. We get sometimes hysterical.
Sometimes we move a lot faster with a lot more
energy. And sometimes we stop watching TV or
watching our computer or talking or whatever,
and suddenly we dial in all of our energy right
on the puppy. All of those things, it's like
a perfect storm to reinforce that behavior that
we don't even want in the first place. So just
like talking about this and nailing down what's
happening, you can put... your own brain to,
you know, to work here and be like, cool, in
order to undo this or avoid this, I've got to
do the opposite. Yep. All right. Another reason
why puppies bite and jump. So the, the jumping,
a lot of times that just comes from the puppy
wanting to be closer to you. Yeah. Right. It.
It's not usually that the puppy's like trying
to dominate the situation and like, I'm going
to body slam you. Now, there are some breeds
that do like to play that way. They love to body
slam and like slam into you and be rough and
stuff. But just general puppies jumping up, most
of the time when we see that, it's because. They
just want to get closer and they want to be touched,
handled, or get some sort of affection or even
just some engagement. And what's the number one
thing that we typically do? You can picture this.
You walk in the doorway somewhere or even as
a guest and they've got a brand new little puppy
who's exploring the world. They're just the cutest
little thing. And they don't weigh very much.
So it's not like, you know, it's not off putting
when they try to jump up or crawl up you. And
it's really, really cute. So one of the first
things that I see people do is reach down and
reach for the puppy and interact with them. And
even if you're not reaching for them because
you are an excellent guest and you're like, oh,
no, I don't want to reinforce that behavior.
You're still kind of bending over at the waist
in order to look at this puppy that's down here
that's so cute. And you're giving them a whole
bunch of attention and engagement. Yeah. And
so it immediately shows the puppy that this is
acceptable behavior. Yeah. And a lot of times
it is. For most owners initially, but then the
puppy starts growing and then they get more demanding
and then they get stronger and they start weighing
more and suddenly now it's inconvenient. Yep.
But now we've got to play catch up because, well,
we, we created that habit. If a puppy runs up
and jumps up on you and you never through its
entire life, you never even acknowledge that
it jumped up on you. You won't see it continue
to jump up on you. Yeah. Because dogs only continue
to do what is either reinforced by you or become
self -gratifying. That's the only thing that
they do because otherwise there's no attention,
no love, no affection, no treats, no food, and
no shelter provided by that activity. It serves
no purpose and so they don't do it. Right. There's
no reward. Right. All right. Last little supporting
point I had written down, and I just touched
on this, but puppies repeat whatever earns a
payoff. So you've got to control your attention,
your eye contact, your hands, and as well as
the noises and sounds that we make, right? People,
and this is where we see this a lot with kids.
Kids squealing and screaming and all of these
things when a puppy jumps up on them sounds so
fun to a puppy. They're not tracking that this
kid is screaming his head off because he's hurt
or scared or whatever. Puppies just don't know.
So the kid who's screaming his head off because
his puppy jumped up on him. that seems fun and
so they're going to keep doing it and or do it
more right they all count all of those things
they count as rewards yeah um so what do we what
what is the best what would you say the best
advice is i mean obviously we've covered all
of the ma like the reasons why this happens um
what what would you advise a client right off
the bat somebody's like My dog jumps on me when
I come home. What should I do? One, don't pay
any attention to it. Yep. So check out. This
is maintenance, right? We have to create some
maintenance for the behavior right off the bat.
And the maintenance is how are we going to deal
with it immediately differently than we have
before? Then we can start to correct the behavior.
So go ahead. Yeah. Ignoring the dog. Not giving
them any attention when you get home. That's
going to be the easiest, most, or least aversive
method, obviously. After multiple repetitions
of that, the dog is going to kind of give up
and realize that they're not getting any attention
from it. Let's see. If it's guests coming over
and not just you coming in the door, you can
put a leash on them, step on the leash. It will
give them an automatic correction when they go
to jump up because they won't even be able to
jump up. Let's see. What else? So my advice right
off the bat is to remind. people that puppies
jumping and biting are totally normal behaviors
so that like right off the bat you are not the
only one who's ever dealt with this and and it's
totally normal your dog's not a bad dog for doing
it we just probably accidentally taught them
that it was either okay to do or really fun to
do and then it became self -gratifying so now
that you push them off of you or try to ignore
them or all of these things. It's just kind of
what they do and they don't know a different
way. So then I go into, all right, number one,
ignore as much as you can. At some point, you're
not going to be able to ignore. So that's where
I am going to step into the dog space. So dog
approaches me. And they are, they're about, this
only works proactively. It doesn't really work
like when the dog actually jumps up on you. But
proactively, as you see the dogs kind of loading
and about to jump up, you can step towards them
and into their space and make the whole situation
significantly more uncomfortable for them to
jump up on you. The next one that I recommend
is a leash. So let them drag a line. Let them
drag a line. And then I put my foot on the leash
with enough slack for the dog to not feel leash
pressure. And then I slide my foot on the ground
around the dog and wherever I'm going. I just
slide my foot so that. the dog can remain on
that loose leash unless the dog jumps. And at
the point where the dog jumps, they receive leash
pressure on their own accord. And it's instantaneous
right as they jump. And also the leash pressure
is in the direction of the floor, kind of correcting
them and telling them non -verbally in what direction
you want them to go. which is back down to the
floor. Most times when I start working on correcting
that, it doesn't take very many times for the
dog to feel that pressure for them to then put
all four paws on the floor. And at that point,
that's where you reach down and give them attention.
So we can start to reinforce and build some.
excitement for just standing there or just sitting
there yeah and then that's how you install a
new habit yep okay number two major point number
two teaching bite inhibition and a four paws
on the floor man i keep doing this i kind of
allude to the next thing before we get there
It's got good flow, but I keep jumping ahead
too far. So we can use toys for chewing. We can
introduce, right? So we talked about the four
paws on the floor thing already. So we'll cut
to the chase and let's do puppy biting. So puppy
starts, runs up to you and starts nibbling. What's
your go -to? Start nibbling on your fingers.
If it's a puppy, I usually try to redirect to
a toy. Give them something they're supposed to
chew. So right off the bat, the least aversive
and the least intrusive thing that we can do
is just redirect their energy and then give them
something they can chew on, give them something
they can bite, and then praise them. Praise them
for it. You can do the exact same thing with
stuff that the dog's not supposed to have. So
this doesn't just apply to puppy biting, but
it also can apply to, hey, don't take this. You
can't have that. Here, you can have this instead.
Use your marker words. Use your marker words
to show the dog that, yeah, you can have this.
This is good. Great job. And then make sure that
whatever interaction that you're having, anything
that's pleasurable in that interaction completely
ceases at the point where they're doing the wrong
thing. Because that's usually the opposite of
how we train the dog to interact with us in the
first place that is now getting us bit. So we
want to totally check out at the point where
we're like, oh, such a cute puppy. Oh my gosh,
it's eating my hand. And at that point, I'm going
to remove my hand. I'm going to stand up. I'm
going to take away all of my attention and I'm
going to ignore the dog. And there's, I guess
there's probably levels to that, right? But end
the interaction. You don't need drama, you don't
need yelling, but you need to set a clear boundary
that's like, nah, I'm not into that. A lot of
times that was how we went off the path in the
first place. And so that's the way that we get
back on path. Mark the calm engagement times.
A lot of times we forget to tell the dog that
they're doing the right thing when they're doing
the right thing. And so we only correct and increase
our volume and get involved in what the dog's
doing when they're doing the wrong thing. Yeah.
And so then they go around and they're like,
cool, don't do that, don't do that, don't do
that. I can't do anything in this place. This
place sucks. I can't do anything. So we've got
to tell the dog that they're doing good when
they're doing nothing, which is hard to teach
people sometimes. Because the dog's just laying
down. Well, you need a way that you can calmly
tell the dog, hey, good job for just laying down.
Great job. Just keep doing it. That's where our
obedience training comes in. That's where our
markers come in. That's where all of these things
come in to where we can tell the dog and communicate
with them clearly without increasing their excitement.
Because here's the next thing that usually we
get off on or we mess up on. is that we haven't
really taught the dog all of this stuff. So when
we go to interact with them and tell them, hey,
good job, we gave them some interaction, some
engagement, and they immediately spaz out. And
they're like, oh my gosh, he's coming to pet
me. But we didn't take the time to give these
repetitions of, let me just... Say good one time
and give you one pet, which can decondition the
dog from thinking that every time you come over,
you're going to wrestle with them. Yeah. And
instead I'm giving contact, but just one pet
because, Hey, good job. You sat good. One pet
down. Oh, good. One pet. Those things. By repping
those out and focusing on that obedience side,
we can then use that to our advantage when we're
dealing with these other things. Yeah. All right.
You got more to add on that? I don't think so.
All right. Last one I've got is that calm praise
can build calm behavior. The excited praise.
Which is what you just said. Yes. Right. I know.
You moved on to it without going. It's like I'm
just cruising through my notes from the back
of my head, I guess. But the excited praise,
it builds chaos, right? It just, it can amp the
dog up. And so that's fine sometimes. Sometimes
you might want to do that. You want to amp the
dog up. It's like, cool, it's time for playtime.
Then by all means, get that excited praise out
and increase that energy level. But the rest
of the time, we want to help the dog learn that
calmness is okay. So calm praise. Calm praise
can build that. Go -to drill for teaching bite
inhibition. Do you have something to jump in
on this one? Or do you want me to go down this
road? You're welcome to go down the road. When
I look at bite inhibition and teaching it, I
just look at redirecting a lot to toys. It's
like they bite you, cool, pick up the toy. Reward
for picking up the toy. I was going to talk about
it from a different perspective. Bite inhibition
is a trait that usually gets picked up by puppies.
When taught to them from their mothers, right?
When a dog is relying on their mothers for feeding,
right? For their mother's milk. When they bite
too hard, they will oftentimes get a correction
from their mom, either through. you know, a growl
or through, um, a snap or even just through a
Yelp. Right. And at that point, a lot of times
a mother will, will push the dog off or away
or Paul the dog away and be like, well, fine.
No, no food for you. Yeah. That teaches a puppy
very quickly that like, Ooh, uh, that was too
much. I've got to be gentler. Well, when you
take a dog away from their mom too early, those
are the dogs that statistically have harder mouths.
They have less bite inhibition because they didn't
learn it from their moms. Yeah. So if we understand
that, we can also teach. some of this bite inhibition.
And there's a couple of things that they're not
probably mainstream, but you can, you can find
a couple of these tips out there, right? One
of them is, is a, I guess a high pitched Yelp.
So this doesn't work with all dogs, but there
are a few that it's worked pretty well. So what
I'm talking about is puppy bites you and as they're
biting you, you give a very quick, trill, high
-pitched yelp. Just like a little puppy as two
puppies are interacting and one puppy bites or
plays too hard and the other puppy yelps. That
can be picked up. by a puppy who's willing to
receive that yeah uh and it can explain to them
in a way that they're kind of open to have been
like oh that was too much because at the same
time you're going to do all these things that
we've already talked about stand up remove yourself
take away the fun introduce something else yeah
all of those things communicate pretty clearly
to the dog that oh That was too much. That's
where we draw the line. I can't do that. Another
option. You can, and this one throws, some people
will get into this, some people not. You can
just put a single finger down on the tongue of
the dog. We're not grinding the dog's tongue
down. We're not making it. super aversive. All
you're doing is if your fingers are already in
the dog's mouth, which first I would question
why they're in the dog's mouth. But number two,
if they're already there, you have the option
to pull them out without just pulling your hands
or your fingers through the teeth. Just with
just your index finger or whatever fingers in
their mouth, just push down lightly on their
tongue and create some pressure. And most dogs
will immediately just kind of like back up. The
pressure will just back them up and they'll open
their mouths in order to just get away. And that
immediately creates some distance for you, even
if it's just a few inches where they're not actively
pursuing. And now they're. their body weight
has shifted back. That should be enough for you
to remove your hand and then move on with all
of the other things that we've already talked
about. Yeah. All right. So those are my go -tos
for teaching bite inhibition on a dog who either
didn't learn it or we have not been proactive
in teaching it right off the bat. I highly recommend
that you don't. What I'm not saying here for
clarification is just act like a dog. You're
not going to fool your puppy into them thinking
that you're a dog. Act like a human. I'm not
going to get into the, there's a whole different
path here where it's like, oh, well, you can
mimic the behavior of a puppy and do this and
do that. No, no. Just be the leader. But some
of these things, just like we can use vibration
and things that we can use, things that we've
detailed in the past where we're not looking
to be aversive to the dogs, we're looking to
break the pattern of whatever it is that they
have decided is what they want. Breaking a pattern
is always preferred to controlling what the dog
does. All right. how the power of marker words,
right? We did a whole podcast on this, but if
you don't understand the marker words, give us
the power of anticipation. And as we start to
condition the different marker words, it gives
us clear ways to communicate with the dogs, even
puppies. They will not understand all of your
noises and sounds. But if we start training them
that this yes means that they're getting a treat
and no means that they're getting whatever it
was that was fun taken away, that gives you clear
communication to start correcting behaviors.
Use your marker words because it's less words.
You cannot talk to your puppy. You cannot tell
it, hey, Don't do that. That's bad. They didn't
get any of that. We've got to simplify our communication
and speak to the dogs with things that they do
understand. Yep. All right. This one's a good
one. How do you stop a puppy who jumps on everyone
else? But not the owner. It's a riddle. It's
a trick. Right. Yeah. Riddle me this. Right.
You have more people over. Right. And you use
on leash greetings. And then you. Correct. And
you use on leash greetings. Just like what I
just said. Owner stands next to the dog. Controls
the dog with the leash. The same way that I just
kind of detailed. But. You have to have other
people over because I've seen this in a dog too
where the owner is the only one that doesn't
get jumped on. I was about to say, yeah. And
so then they can't train the dog not to jump
on people because it doesn't jump on the owner.
Right. Yeah. So you have to sometimes put your
dog in the positions where they're going to exhibit
the behavior that you want to correct. Yeah.
That's not the same as setting your dog up for
failure so that they just fail, fail, fail. It
means that we've got to pattern the dog. We've
got to use patterns for the dog to understand.
And if you cannot introduce the dog to some of
those things that do trigger the issues, well,
then you're never going to be able to fix them.
Kind of a trick question, not a trick question.
Right, yeah. It's not rocket science. All right.
Last one, major point three. Consistency creates
respect. So our mixed messages often confuse
puppies and pretty much seal our fate, guarantee
more biting and more jumping. Every family member
has got to work together on this. Yeah. Because
puppies of all the types of dogs, like their
own breed, puppies are not going to understand
why they can wrestle and be rough with and bite
dad. We'll just go with these traditional values
because I often see. The men in the household
being the little rougher playing with the dogs.
And then they run in the other room and they
bite the kids and all heck breaks loose. And
then there is this mismatch because the dog's
like, well, what the heck? Right. I don't understand.
I was just playing over here and then I was just
playing over there. Right. But you have to. assume
that however you play with the dog the dog is
going to play with other people the same way
yeah so and there i don't think that puppies
have as um a lot of times i talk about how you
can just play with a dog in one area and not
play with them anywhere else and then they'll
be more apt to play in that area and not in the
other places um case in point like i play with
my dogs outside and we don't play inside so when
we come inside they just drop their toys off
or there's no real value in the toy because we
never play with them inside yeah however i i
have not experienced a whole lot of puppies that
truly can differentiate all of that stuff yet
because they are still learning how to use their
their limbs, right? Like puppies got a lot going
on in their head. They're not paying attention
to the more finer details of like, Oh cool. This
is acceptable here, but I should understand that
it's not acceptable there. That is a much more
mature dog concept that you can eventually teach
to puppies with very strict consistency, but
I'm not going to recommend it. What I'm going
to recommend is that you be consistent across
the board through all the family members. Everybody's
got to work together and enforce the same expectations.
Yep. All right. Attention, affection and play.
Those are the three major things that we can
use to reward. are puppies on a daily basis.
None of those, that's not even like food. Some
dogs are going to have high food drives. Some
dogs won't be as food motivated. But all puppies
love affection and attention and play. All of
those are options for rewarding your food. Calm
behavior. And by teaching them that calmness
is what precedes those things, they will offer
that behavior, they will offer that calmness
more often, which will give you a leg up. Jumping.
So jumping disappears. The fastest when it never
works. Right. Everything that you don't want
disappears fastest when it doesn't work. Yeah.
The one time they get that attention from jumping
is the one time that they're like, oh, I'm just
going to keep doing that then. Yep. And so we've
got to make sure that we do not. I mean, it keeps
just saying the same thing. Consistency, consistency,
consistency. You just can't take a day off. Yeah,
you can't. When you are raising a puppy, it's
a full time job. You cannot take a day off. You
can't take an hour off because when you do and
they're like, they're constantly exploring the
world. You can take an hour off if they're in
their crate. Right. Right. Circle back to last
week. Right. That's why the crate is so important.
It's because you've got a life to live too. And
there's no part of us that expects you to be
dialed into your puppy 24 hours a day. That's
not realistic. So you should crate train them.
Yep. All right. Reward. Um, they're calm choices
and then what that, and that's going to build
their motivation to make those better choices.
Calmness, reward, calmness. That can be a skill.
That should be an obedience thing. And it's like,
how do you, um, you're not going to have a command
for it. Calm, be calm. Right. But when you see
it, everyone knows what it looks like. Yeah.
And when you see it, reward it. Tell them they
did the right thing. Give them that one pet.
Also work on that. Decondition that so that they
don't freak out as soon as you come over there
and give them any attention. What is an example?
There's some people that are listening that are
going to be like, well, You guys just harp on
all of this structure and stuff, but I just want
to enjoy my puppy while they're a puppy. I agree
with you. They're only going to be puppies for
a little while, but they're going to be dogs
for a long time. And what you do now is going
to teach them what is acceptable going forward.
I know that they're only going to be puppies
for a while, but whatever they figure out works
now, they're going to keep doing. So, I mean,
make your own choice, but you got to understand
they're going to grow into it, not out of it.
Yeah, 100%. All right, so why is timing more
important than intensity? Because I think if
you focus on the intensity of correcting a dog
for biting, they're going to be more prone to,
one, either be fearful, or two, to think it's
a game. Because they're not going to differentiate
that you're mad versus, oh, well, your volume
just increased. So you can begin to kind of antagonize
the situation rather than... addressing it and
fixing it but if you can knock it out as soon
as the behavior starts and even if you're rewarding
behavior I mean we always go back on like timing
is super important when you're rewarding it's
just as important when you're correcting because
whatever you correct when you get that no out
that's what you're correcting just like when
you mark with yes that's what you're rewarding
whatever the behavior is that you're marking
at that time indeed i like it all right i'm gonna
open it up for questions um if we've got any
questions now is the time go for it No questions
tonight. All right. No problem. No problemo.
All right. So then let's go into listener projects.
Every week I try to give you two projects that
you can work on and try to instill into your
dogs. These ones are specific. to puppies a little
bit, but I think you can adapt them and kind
of have the same idea. So chew toy redirection.
So Bree talked about this a couple of times,
but keep two to three approved chew toys nearby.
You need to have some easy access to these. If
the puppy bites your skin or something that they're
not supposed to have, I want you to just calmly
redirect to the toy. All we're going to do is
we're going to use any of the techniques that
we talked about to remove yourself from the situation,
redirect to the toy, do it quietly. Just introduce
that toy. And at the point where the dog puts
it in his mouth or interacts with it, mark yes.
Write the moment or whatever marker word you
use. Mark yes the moment that they engage with
the toy. Do this every single time. The repetition
is what's going to create the habit. When we're
trying to get a dog to stay in their place for
a long period of time, we can introduce something
that they really like, that they want to interact
with, but only allow them to have it on their
place bed. That's going to increase the likelihood.
It's not infallible, but it's going to increase
the likelihood that they're going to want to
stay there because that's where they get to interact
with this thing. When they come off, you're going
to just take it away and put them right back
in their place. So it's the same concept with
the chew toy. All right, project number two,
the end game rule. So during play, if the puppy
bites or jumps on you, say no, and then we just
stand up. Turn away and we calmly disengage.
So the no predicts you are going to end the game.
If the puppy offers calm and respectful behavior,
all right, well then maybe you can re -engage.
But you watch, just like you are willing to end
the behavior, you should also be willing to initiate.
the game again when the dog performs the behavior
you do want. We don't want to always be negative
with the dog. Sometimes we want to reinitialize
or we want to engage them in a game, but we want
to do it on our terms as they do what we ask
them to do. All right. That is all I got here
for episode 10 on puppy biting and the boundaries
that we need to create in order to facilitate
that. Thank you for tuning in. I appreciate it.
Oh, Lord. I hit that button a little too fast
here. Let's try this. Here we go. Thanks for
tuning in. Thanks for joining us tonight. Right.
That one threw me off. Um, dangers of doing the
whole live show thing. Um, as you guys think
up questions and things, uh, feel free to leave
a comment on any of the podcasting things. Uh,
most of them get funneled to me. Um, welcome
to reach out through, uh, Ryan at top dog training,
nc .com. And, uh, that's all I got for tonight.
Thanks, guys, for listening in. Thanks, guys.
Good night.