WEBVTT

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Imagine pouring yourself a glass of white wine,

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bringing it to your lips, taking a sip, and realizing

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you are tasting the exact same genetic recipe

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that was enjoyed by a Roman legionnaire 2 ,000

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years ago. Which is just a crazy thought to start

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with. Right. It really is. Today, we are completely

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bypassing the museum. We aren't looking at dusty

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clay M4A sitting behind thick temperature controlled

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glass. Oh, definitely not. We are looking at

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living, breathing, a continuously evolving history

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that you can actually pour and drink. Welcome

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to today's deep dive. We are thrilled to take

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you on a very specific, highly focused journey

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today to the central Dalmatian coast. A beautiful

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part of the world. Oh, absolutely stunning. And

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our mission for you today, we are unpacking a

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single mysterious Wikipedia article about a Croatian

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white wine grape that Well, it might just be

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one of the oldest surviving agricultural artifacts

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in the world. Yeah, you are talking about the

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Vugava. That's the one. Or if you happen to be

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speaking to the locals on the Croatian island

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of Vis, where this grape is primarily cultivated,

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you'll likely hear it called Vugava. Vugava with

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a B. Exactly. This is a white grape variety that

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has somehow managed to survive on a tiny remote

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island in the Adriatic Sea. basically isolated

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from the mainstream winemaking world for centuries.

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Wow. Yeah, we're looking at a plant that has

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essentially been marooned in time. Marooned in

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time. I love that. And what a survival story

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it actually is. In this Deep Dive, we are going

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to explore the hazy, heavily debated ancient

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history of this grape. Heavily debated is putting

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it lightly. Truly. We'll examine the biological

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mechanics of some really surprising genetic plot

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twists, and then we are going to dive into the

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fascinating paradox of why something so highly

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prized is rarely allowed to stand on its own

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in a wine glass. Which is a huge mystery in itself.

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Right, because to truly understand what is happening

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chemically in the bottle, you have to understand

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the soil and the history it sprang from. And

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that takes us directly into, like you said, a

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rather intense historical debate. Yeah, the timeline

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we are dealing with here is just staggering.

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I mean, Vugava is anecdotally cl - to be over

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2 ,000 years old? Two millennia. Right. But the

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origins of how it actually got to the island

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of Vis are split into two fiercely competing

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historical theories. OK, let's break those down.

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So the first theory claims the grape was cultivated

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by ancient Greek colonists. Back in the fourth

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century BC, the island of Vis was known as Issa.

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Issa. Yeah, Issa. It was a crucial strategic

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maritime outpost established by the Greeks from

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Syracuse. So they were far from home. Very far.

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And the theory goes that these Greek colonists

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brought their prized vines with them, planted

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them in the rocky Mediterranean soil, and boom,

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Vugava was born. OK, so that sets up this beautiful

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classical origin story. The Greeks arrive, build

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their society, plant the vineyards. But there

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is a second theory, right? There is, yeah. The

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competing theory argues that Vugava was introduced

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much later by the Roman army. Ah, the Romans.

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Of course, right. During their campaigns and

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eventual conquest of the region, the Romans were,

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well, they were notorious for bringing their

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own agricultural infrastructure wherever their

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legions marched. They wanted their wine on the

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front lines. Exactly. Now the crucial detail

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from our source text here is that there is absolutely

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zero hard proof for either of these stories.

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Wait, really? Zero? Zero. We have no definitive

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archaeological DNA linking modern Vugava to ancient

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root stock, and we certainly don't have... like

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ancient shipping manifests detailing vine transports

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to Issa. It is entirely anecdotal. Wait, hold

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on. If there is absolutely zero hard proof, why

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do we even entertain these origin stories? I

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mean, grapes mutate constantly, right? How does

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a single grapevine survive on an incredibly harsh

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sun -baked island for two millennia without evolving

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into something entirely unrecognizable? That's

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a great question. It feels like we're clinging

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to a cherished family recipe where the origin

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story is more marketing than fact. How do you

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mean? You know the kind I'm talking about. Right.

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Like your grandmother swears her famous pasta

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sauce recipe was passed down through five generations

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of Sicilian artisans. Oh, right, sure. But in

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reality, maybe she just found it on the back

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of a soup can in 1975. Right. But because the

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sauce tastes so incredibly good, you just choose

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to believe the legend. I mean, that is a very

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fair skepticism. You're dealing with clonal variation

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over thousands of years, meaning the Vugava grown

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today is a biological descendant, not an exact

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carbon copy of some ancient vine. Makes sense.

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However, the reason winemakers and historians

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cling to these stories isn't just marketing.

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Wine is fundamentally tied to human cultivation.

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It's cultural. Exactly. Tying a modern Greek

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to the ancient Greeks or the Roman Empire, it

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gives it a sense of majesty. People want to connect

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with antiquity. I get that. In fact, proponents

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of the ancient Greek theory, they constantly

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point to a very specific historical quote. The

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ancient Greek historian and geographer, Agatharchades.

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I hope I'm pronouncing that right in my head.

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Right. Agatharchades. He once wrote, and this

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is a quote, on the island of Vis is a wine produced

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that no other wine equals. No other wine equals.

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Man, that is a massive endorsement from a civilization

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that practically bathes in wine. It is a phenomenal

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review, but this quote is the epicenter of the

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ongoing debate. Because they don't know what

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wine he meant. Exactly. Was he actually talking

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about Vugava? Right. We simply do not know if

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the wine he tasted The one that had no equal

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was made from the predecessors of the Vagava

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grapes growing on the island today. Okay, so

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we have this historical identity wrapped in a

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thick fog of ancient mythology. Very thick fog.

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But if we pull the lens back to the present day

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and look at its biological identity, the confusion

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doesn't go away. It actually gets weirder. Oh,

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it gets much weirder. Because from what I read

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in the source, even today, modern sommeliers

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and wine experts are incredibly confused about

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what Vugava actually is when it hits their palate.

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Yeah, the modern sensory confusion is just as

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deep as the historical mystery. When experts

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cased Vugava blind, It is frequently compared

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to, and honestly mistaken for, a very well -known,

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highly celebrated grape called Viognia. Viognia.

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Yeah, for those familiar with the Rhone Valley

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whites. Viognia is famous for its incredibly

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lush, heavy floral profile. You are talking about

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those massive, explosive aromas, right? Like

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apricots, peaches, heavy honeysuckle perfumes.

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Yes, highly aromatic and deeply textured. It's

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a big wine. Right. And when you put your nose

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into a glass of Vugava, You are hit with those

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exact same intents. heavily perfumed notes. Really?

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The exact same? The aromatic profiles are so

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strikingly similar that for a long time the global

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wine community just assumed they had to be closely

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related. Oh, sure. The assumption was that Vugava

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was perhaps a lost cousin or, I don't know, an

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ancient ancestor of Viagnier that had just been

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isolated on the Dalmatian coast. And this is

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where the science completely shatters the pasting

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notes, isn't it? Completely shatters it. Genetic

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testing has completely upended the assumption.

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So they aren't related? Not even close. Despite

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tasting and smelling so remarkably similar to

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Viognier, modern DNA profiling has proven that

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Vugava and Viognier have absolutely no relationship

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whatsoever. They are not siblings. They are not

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cousins. They do not share apparent grape. Genetically

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speaking, they are total strangers. That is wild

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to me. It's mind -blowing. It's like finding

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your exact celebrity doppelganger out in the

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world. You have the same eyes, the same nose.

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You even have the same laugh. Right. But then

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you both take an ancestral DNA test, and it shows

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that you don't even share a continent origin.

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Exactly. It is a total viticultural coincidence.

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How is that even chemically possible if they

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aren't related? So it comes down to a concept

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called convergent evolution. Convergent evolution.

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Yeah. specifically regarding how plants produce

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organic compounds called terpenes. Terpenes?

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Right. Terpenes are the chemical compounds responsible

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for those heavy floral, apricot, and honeysuckle

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aromas. Nature can arrive at the exact same chemical

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destination from completely different genetic

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starting points. Oh, wow. You have two different

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grape vines entirely unrelated developing the

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exact same complex aromatic defenses and attractants

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in response to their environments. So the plant

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is essentially reverse engineering the vineyard

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flavor profile just to survive the harsh environment

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of this. Precisely. Yeah. And because Zugava

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arrived at this genetic profile independently,

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its behavior in the vineyard is entirely its

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own. It does its own thing. Yeah, it does not

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play by the rules of other aromatic whites. Right.

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The biology of this grape creates massive, everyday

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challenges for the people actually trying to

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grow it. Because surviving for two millennia

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doesn't mean it's an easy plant to deal with.

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Oh, it's a nightmare sometimes. Let's talk about

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the harvest. From what our sources outline, Vugava

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requires a staggering amount of attention. You

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can't just plant it, walk away, and come back

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in the fall. Not at all. The agricultural reality

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of Vugava is dictated by the intense Mediterranean

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climate of this. Right. You have these blistering

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summers, relentless sun reflecting off the Adriatic

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Sea and very rocky limestone soils. Sounds beautiful

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for a vacation, tough for a plant. Exactly. And

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in this environment, Vugava acts like an engine

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running on overdrive as the grapes hang on the

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vine developing those beautiful complex turpines

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we just talked about. The honeysuckle and apricot.

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Right. They're simultaneously building massive

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amounts of sugar at an alarming rate. No, you

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are probably wondering why they don't just harvest

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it earlier before the sugar gets out of control.

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Yeah, a lot of people ask that. Right. But they

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can't. If you pick it early to control the sugar,

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the aromatic compounds haven't fully developed

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yet. So you get boring wine. You get a wine with

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no flavor. But if you wait for the aromas to

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peak, the sugar spikes and more importantly,

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the malic acid in the grape. rapidly respires

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away. It just disappears. It plummets. It is

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a physiological tightrope. You have a window

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of perhaps 24 hours to harvest this grape at

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the absolute perfect time. 24 hours. That is

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so stressful. Very. And this biological tightrope

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leads us to the biggest paradox in our entire

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deep dive today. Our sources explicitly highlight

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a fascinating contradiction. Which is... The

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text states that Vugava is recognized as a strictly,

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quote, high quality grape variety. Yes. But despite

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being this highly prized, historically significant

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high quality grape, it is rarely bottled on its

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own. Right. It's almost never a solo act. Exactly.

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It is usually used merely for blending with other

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varieties. They are mixing it with grapes like

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Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, or Sauvignon Blanc. It

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seems entirely counterintuitive, doesn't it?

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Completely. If you possess an ancient, world

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-class grape that produces phenomenal aromas,

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you would naturally assume the winemaker would

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want to bottle it 100 % on its own to show off

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its pedigree. Right. So what does this all mean?

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If it's so high quality, why does it need a supporting

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cast? Why dilute a 2 ,000 -year -old legacy with

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a common grape like Chardonnay? The answer lies

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in the chemistry of that harvest window we just

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discussed. The sugar and the acid. Exactly. In

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its traditional form, Vugava... boasts a massive

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sugar content and very intense overripe aromas.

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Now in the fermentation process, high sugar translates

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directly to either very high alcohol or heavy

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residual sweetness. Okay. But the critical flaw

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is the lack of acidity. As we noted, the grape

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drops its acid quickly in the Dalmatian heat.

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And anyone who knows wine knows that acidity

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is the structural framework of a white wine.

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It really is. It's the crispness, the spine.

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Without acidity, a high -alcohol, high -sugar

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wine just feels flabby and heavy on your palate.

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Exactly the problem. Without a strong acid backbone,

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those sweet, fruity, floral flavors become ploying

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and overwhelming. Nobody wants a cloying wine.

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No. The wine loses its tension. So the winemaker

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steps in to engineer a rescue operation. A rescue

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operation? Yeah. They look at this beautiful,

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aromatic, sugary grape and realize it has no

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spine. So they blend it with Chardonnay, Pinot

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Gris, or Sauvignon Blanc. The backups. Right,

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because these are varieties that reliably retain

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their malic and tartaric acids even in warm climates.

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They bring that much needed crisp acidity and

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structural tension to the final bottle. I really

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love how this reframes the concept of blending.

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We usually think of blending as a way to hide

00:12:39.419 --> 00:12:41.679
inferior grapes, but here it's about structural

00:12:41.679 --> 00:12:44.019
integrity. Yes, exactly. It makes me think of

00:12:44.019 --> 00:12:46.940
Vugava's sugar to acid ratio like an architect

00:12:46.940 --> 00:12:49.169
trying to build a skyscraper. entirely out of

00:12:49.169 --> 00:12:51.649
glass. Oh that's a great way to look at it. Right.

00:12:51.970 --> 00:12:55.230
You have all this beautiful, highly aromatic

00:12:55.230 --> 00:12:58.110
material, the glass, but without a rigid steel

00:12:58.110 --> 00:13:00.610
frame, the whole structure just collapses under

00:13:00.610 --> 00:13:02.950
its own weight on your palate. The Chardonnay

00:13:02.950 --> 00:13:06.309
or Sauvignon Blanc acts as the steel frame. They

00:13:06.309 --> 00:13:09.049
provide the rigid boundaries so that those overripe

00:13:09.049 --> 00:13:12.590
aromas and sweet, heavy flavors can actually

00:13:12.590 --> 00:13:15.669
stand up and be admired rather than just collapsing

00:13:15.669 --> 00:13:18.649
into a syrupy mess. The structural metaphor is

00:13:18.649 --> 00:13:21.299
perfect. The blending doesn't diminish. the quality

00:13:21.299 --> 00:13:24.100
of the Vugava at all. It enhances it. It actually

00:13:24.100 --> 00:13:26.740
makes the Vugava legible to the human palate.

00:13:26.990 --> 00:13:30.210
The structural support allows you to experience

00:13:30.210 --> 00:13:33.750
the intense aromas without palate fatigue. So

00:13:33.750 --> 00:13:35.990
if blending Chardonnay saves the wine in the

00:13:35.990 --> 00:13:38.210
bottle, how do we save it once it's poured into

00:13:38.210 --> 00:13:40.750
the glass? Because all that residual sugar and

00:13:40.750 --> 00:13:42.750
heavy perfume doesn't just disappear when you

00:13:42.750 --> 00:13:45.450
drink it. Our conversation has to shift to the

00:13:45.450 --> 00:13:47.669
chemistry of the dinner table. Absolutely. The

00:13:47.669 --> 00:13:49.669
experience of wine is only half finished when

00:13:49.669 --> 00:13:52.529
the cork is pulled. The final step of the chemical

00:13:52.529 --> 00:13:55.220
equation is pairing it with food. Okay, what's

00:13:55.220 --> 00:13:57.460
on the menu for Vugava? Based on the complex

00:13:57.460 --> 00:14:01.240
flavor profile of Vugava, those sweet fruity

00:14:01.240 --> 00:14:04.659
flavors layered over a heavy body wines produced

00:14:04.659 --> 00:14:08.059
from these grapes have a very specific culinary

00:14:08.059 --> 00:14:10.960
calling. Which is? They demand savory foods that

00:14:10.960 --> 00:14:14.659
are rich in flavor. Specifically, the texts point

00:14:14.659 --> 00:14:17.279
to fish and mulcher dishes. Which is really interesting

00:14:17.279 --> 00:14:19.820
because normally if you hand someone a piece

00:14:19.820 --> 00:14:22.940
of delicate white fish, they instinctively reach

00:14:22.940 --> 00:14:25.480
for something sharp. light and zesty. Right.

00:14:25.639 --> 00:14:27.279
You know, like squeezing a lemon over a piece

00:14:27.279 --> 00:14:30.299
of cod. They reach for a chablis or a dry riseling.

00:14:30.639 --> 00:14:33.080
Why reach for a heavy sweet Vugava? Because we

00:14:33.080 --> 00:14:35.559
are dealing with the mechanics of contrast rather

00:14:35.559 --> 00:14:38.379
than compliment. Contrast. Think about how the

00:14:38.379 --> 00:14:41.019
winemaker used blending with grapes like Sauvignon

00:14:41.019 --> 00:14:44.379
Blanc to offset Vugava's high sugar. The steel

00:14:44.379 --> 00:14:47.259
frame. Right. A chef uses food to achieve that

00:14:47.259 --> 00:14:49.950
exact same balance on your palate. When you take

00:14:49.950 --> 00:14:52.110
a bite of a savory, heavily seasoned poultry

00:14:52.110 --> 00:14:55.409
dish or an umami -rich piece of fish, the salt

00:14:55.409 --> 00:14:57.809
and the savory compounds interact directly with

00:14:57.809 --> 00:15:00.350
the residual sugar in the wine. So the food is

00:15:00.350 --> 00:15:02.649
actively altering how your tongue perceives the

00:15:02.649 --> 00:15:06.690
wine. Yes. The umami and salt in the savory food

00:15:06.690 --> 00:15:09.490
actually dampen your palate's perception of sweetness.

00:15:09.799 --> 00:15:12.860
Oh, wow. It acts as a grounding force. When the

00:15:12.860 --> 00:15:15.039
perception of sweetness is lowered by the savory

00:15:15.039 --> 00:15:18.019
food, the underlying fruit flavors of the Vugava

00:15:18.019 --> 00:15:20.940
can shine through brightly without feeling coying

00:15:20.940 --> 00:15:23.519
or heavy. You are essentially finishing the blending

00:15:23.519 --> 00:15:25.919
process in your own mouth. That's a great way

00:15:25.919 --> 00:15:28.700
to put it. The rich, savory food acts as the

00:15:28.700 --> 00:15:31.559
final structural pillar, giving that heavy sweet

00:15:31.559 --> 00:15:35.940
wine a safe place to land. It absorbs the overpowering

00:15:35.940 --> 00:15:38.960
fruitiness. Exactly. The chemistry of the pairing.

00:15:39.120 --> 00:15:41.419
provides the final layer of balance that the

00:15:41.419 --> 00:15:44.000
grape simply cannot achieve on its own. This

00:15:44.000 --> 00:15:46.600
has been such a fascinating journey. We started

00:15:46.600 --> 00:15:49.600
with a single highly specific article about an

00:15:49.600 --> 00:15:52.840
obscure Croatian grape, and it has taken us across

00:15:52.840 --> 00:15:55.360
millennia of history and biology. It really covers

00:15:55.360 --> 00:15:57.500
a lot of ground. It does. To quickly summarize

00:15:57.500 --> 00:15:59.259
the journey of Ugava for everyone listening,

00:15:59.779 --> 00:16:02.759
we have an ancient, unproven survivor from the

00:16:02.759 --> 00:16:05.200
hazy eras of the Greek maritime empire and the

00:16:05.200 --> 00:16:07.879
Roman army. Still a mystery. Still a mystery.

00:16:08.460 --> 00:16:11.960
We have a genetic lone wolf that perfectly mimics

00:16:11.960 --> 00:16:14.779
the famous Veonia grape through the sheer biological

00:16:14.779 --> 00:16:17.980
will of convergent evolution while sharing absolutely

00:16:17.980 --> 00:16:21.419
zero DNA with it. Total strangers. Right. And

00:16:21.419 --> 00:16:23.580
finally, we have a grape that builds so much

00:16:23.580 --> 00:16:26.480
sugar and such intense overripe aromas in the

00:16:26.480 --> 00:16:29.620
Dalmatian sun that it requires the perfect architectural

00:16:29.620 --> 00:16:32.840
blend of Chardonnay or Pinot Gris and the chemical

00:16:32.840 --> 00:16:35.840
contrast of a savory dish of fish or poultry

00:16:35.840 --> 00:16:38.120
just to keep from collapsing under its own weight.

00:16:38.600 --> 00:16:40.679
It's a remarkable story of endurance, really.

00:16:40.779 --> 00:16:43.129
Truly. And I think it leaves us with something

00:16:43.129 --> 00:16:45.929
quite profound to consider regarding how we view

00:16:45.929 --> 00:16:49.669
success and longevity. Oh. Yeah. I want to leave

00:16:49.669 --> 00:16:51.330
you with a final thought to ponder that builds

00:16:51.330 --> 00:16:53.669
on the mechanics we've discussed today. We tend

00:16:53.669 --> 00:16:55.730
to think that the secret to surviving 2 ,000

00:16:55.730 --> 00:16:57.850
years of history, or even just the secret to

00:16:57.850 --> 00:17:00.370
long -term success in our own modern lives, is

00:17:00.370 --> 00:17:02.610
about being perfectly staleless. Well -rounded,

00:17:02.909 --> 00:17:05.950
independent. Exactly. Well -rounded and entirely

00:17:05.950 --> 00:17:08.430
self -sufficient. We idolize the idea of independence.

00:17:09.069 --> 00:17:12.049
But think about Vugava. By every traditional

00:17:12.049 --> 00:17:15.170
metric of white wine structure, it is fundamentally

00:17:15.170 --> 00:17:18.410
unbalanced. It's a mess. It is. It produces far

00:17:18.410 --> 00:17:20.950
too much sugar, it fails to retain enough acidity,

00:17:21.170 --> 00:17:23.410
and it requires a stressful, meticulous harvest

00:17:23.410 --> 00:17:26.650
window just to survive the season. It is, on

00:17:26.650 --> 00:17:30.369
paper, a technically flawed entity. Yes. Yet,

00:17:30.890 --> 00:17:34.839
it endures. It survives centuries of human history,

00:17:35.220 --> 00:17:39.299
precisely because its overpowering, extreme traits

00:17:39.299 --> 00:17:41.700
make it the perfect collaborator. I love that.

00:17:41.920 --> 00:17:44.720
Its massive flaws are exactly what necessitate

00:17:44.720 --> 00:17:47.319
the blend. It asks us to consider where in our

00:17:47.319 --> 00:17:49.720
own lives, or in our own professional roles,

00:17:49.880 --> 00:17:51.740
we might be driving ourselves crazy striving

00:17:51.740 --> 00:17:54.000
for perfect balance or total self -sufficiency.

00:17:54.079 --> 00:17:57.279
Right. What if, instead, your most extreme, seemingly

00:17:57.279 --> 00:17:59.519
unbalanced traits are exactly the things that

00:17:59.519 --> 00:18:02.089
make you an indispensable part of... blend. That

00:18:02.089 --> 00:18:04.190
is such a powerful takeaway. Maybe we don't need

00:18:04.190 --> 00:18:06.430
to be the perfect self -contained artifact sitting

00:18:06.430 --> 00:18:08.230
safely behind the glass in the museum. Exactly.

00:18:08.410 --> 00:18:10.450
Maybe it's far better to be the living breathing

00:18:10.450 --> 00:18:12.869
slightly unbalanced vine that requires a little

00:18:12.869 --> 00:18:15.710
structural support to create something truly

00:18:15.710 --> 00:18:16.470
spectacular.
