WEBVTT

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You know, there's this phrase people always use

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about, well, if walls could talk. Right. We use

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it for old houses or castles, but maybe a spooky

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hotel somewhere. Yeah, definitely. But nobody

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ever really says if the grass could talk. Which

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is pretty ironic, honestly, because soil usually

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holds onto history a lot longer than architecture

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does. That is entirely true. I mean, buildings

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get knocked down or burned. Yeah. The land, the

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land just stays. And that is exactly the vibe

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of today's deep dive. We are looking at a place

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that... On the surface, at least, is the very

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definition of manicured perfection. It is. It's

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quiet. It's green. People speak in these hushed,

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respectful tones because it's a golf course.

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Right. Specifically, Golf de St. Cloud, just

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west of Paris. But if you scratch that surface,

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even just an inch, you aren't finding sand traps

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and sprinkler systems. Right. You're finding

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deep layers of French identity. You're finding

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the footprint of an empress, the literal blood

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of a 19th century war, and the secret whispers

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of modern French presidents. I really have to

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say, when I first looked at the topic for today,

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I thought, OK, we're doing a sports deep dive.

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Sure. Cool. We'll talk about handicaps and swing

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mechanics and course ratings. But the source

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material. This incredibly comprehensive breakdown

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of the club's history and geography that we have,

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it shows this isn't a sports story at all. Not

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even close. This is a time travel story. It really

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is. The mission today is to figure out how one

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specific plot of land, this 36 -hole complex

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in the suburbs, basically became a microcosm

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for the last 200 years of French history. Yeah.

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We're going to look at how a place goes from

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an imperial estate to a battlefield and finally

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to a réseau d 'influence. A network of power.

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Well, let's orient everyone first, just to set

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the stage for you listening. Yeah. We are in

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the suburbs of Paris. Right. Geographically,

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we are straddling the parishes of Garches, Rue

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Malmaison, and Vaucresson. Okay. It's only about

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12 kilometers from the center of Paris, so it's

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close enough to see the city, but far enough

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out to feel like a complete escape. And the club

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itself officially opens in 1913. Now, usually

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when we talk about golf courses, we just skip

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right to who played there, the famous athletes.

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Naturally. But the sources here make a huge deal

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about the architect, Harry Shaplin Colt. Yes.

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Now, I know that name pops up in golf circles

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a lot, but for those of us who don't spend our

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weekends reading course design magazines, why

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does he matter? Think of Harry Colt as the architect

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who stopped trying to fight nature. Okay, what

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do you mean by that? Well, before him, a lot

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of course design was very geometric, very artificial.

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Colt was part of this golden age of architecture.

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His whole philosophy was that the course should

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look like it's always been there. Like it naturally

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occurred. Exactly. He didn't just move Earth

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to move it. He draped the holes over the existing

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landscape. So he's the guy who makes it look

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completely natural, even though it's highly engineered.

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He is. And he designed the main course at St.

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Cloud. The vert, or green course. It's a par

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71, nearly 6 ,000 meters long. Which is a solid

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length. It is, and is considered a masterpiece

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because it uses the rolling terrain of those

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Parisian suburbs to dictate your strategy. You

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aren't just hitting a ball. Right. You're solving

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a puzzle that the land itself set up for you.

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And then there's the second course, the jaune,

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or yellow course, which came a bit later in 1930.

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The notes say this one is a par 67. Yes. Now,

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I'm not a scratch golfer, but a par 67 sounds,

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well, it sounds really short. It is unusual,

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but that's what makes it so fascinating. In modern

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golf, everyone is obsessed with length. You know,

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7 ,000 yards, massive booming drives. Yeah, grip

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it and rip it. Exactly. But a par 67 is a total

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throwback. It means there are more par threes,

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fewer par fives. You simply cannot overpower

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a course like that. You have to be smart. It's

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like the difference between a heavyweight boxing

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match and a fencing duel. The yellow course requires

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precision, guile, strategy. It was designed by

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Colt and his associate John Morrison to be a

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completely different kind of test. OK, so we

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have this fencing duel of a golf course. But

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let's actually go back before the golfers even

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arrived. Because in 1913, when Henry Cashard

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decides to build a course here. The American

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lawyer. Right, this American lawyer. When he

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decides to build it, he isn't just buying some

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random farm. He is buying a major legacy. He

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really is. Henry Cashard is this interesting

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figure all on his own. An American in Paris,

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very wealthy, heavily connected. But the land

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he buys, it used to belong to Empress Josephine.

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Napoleon's wife. The very same. This land was

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part of her imperial estate. Wow. So long before

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anyone was worried about their backswing or their

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putting grip, this was the playground of the

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Bonaparte family. It's such a strange continuity,

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isn't it? How so? Well, you go from the literal

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emperor of France owning the land to a private

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club for the wealthy elite. Oh. It really feels

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like the definition of exclusive didn't change

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at all, just the price of the admission ticket.

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That is a brilliant way to put it. It shifts

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from hereditary power to financial and social

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power. But the land remains a sanctuary for the

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elite. However, and this is the big pivot in

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our deep dive today, that sanctuary was violently

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breached. This is the part of the research that

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honestly stopped me in my tracks. We jump from

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the luxury of the empress to 1871. The Franco

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-Prussian War. Yes. And we need to set the scene

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here because this wasn't just a minor skirmish

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in the woods. Right. Paris was under a brutal

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siege. The city was starving. It was incredibly

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cold winter. January 1871. A nightmare scenario.

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Absolutely. The French forces were desperate

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to break the German lines that were surrounding

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the city. And that breakout attempt happens literally

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on the golf course. Specifically, the Battle

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of Busanval. Today, if you walk down the 15th

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fairway of the green course, you are walking

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down the exact main line of the French advance.

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That is so jarring to think about. I mean, the

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15th fairway is usually where you're thinking

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about, I don't know, maybe hitting a smooth five

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iron or deciding if you should load up. Yeah.

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But in 1871, that exact same grass was a muddy,

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frozen killing field. It was horrific. The French

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National Guard, many of whom were just civilians

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with minimal military training, charged up those

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slopes directly into Prussian artillery fire.

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Oh, wow. It was a complete disaster. The Prussians

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won the battle. The French lost thousands of

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men. And the attempt to save Paris failed entirely.

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And there's one death in particular that the

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Gulf Club still actively memorializes today.

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The painter Henri Reynaud. This is the story

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that really haunts the place. Henri Regnault

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wasn't just some random foot soldier. He was

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a bona fide celebrity of the art world. Right.

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The source material highlights him specifically.

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He was 27 years old, incredibly talented. He

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had already won the prestigious Prix de Rome.

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He was widely considered the absolute future

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of French painting. So it would be like, imagine

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if a famous young musician or an A -list actor

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today was just handed a rifle and sent to the

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front lines. Exactly. And he was killed during

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that battle, right? There, on the land that is

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now the golf course, it was a huge national tragedy.

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For the public, it symbolized the complete waste

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of the war. France sacrificing its brightest

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young talent for a lost cause. But the amazing

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thing is, they didn't just pave over his memory

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when they built the course. No, they didn't.

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If you play the course today, when you get to

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the 14th hole, there's a physical reminder, a

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bust, a statue of Henri Regnault. That's the

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detail that really gets me. Think about the cognitive

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dissonance there for you as a player. Yeah. You're

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playing a game of leisure. You're out with your

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friends on a beautiful weekend, maybe betting

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a few euros on the match. You walk off the 14th

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green high -fiving because you made a great putt,

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and boom. You're face -to -face with it. You're

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staring at the face of a 27 -year -old artist

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who died screaming in the mud right where you're

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standing. It's a memento mori. A stark reminder

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of death right in the middle of a playground.

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Exactly. It forces you to acknowledge that the

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piece you were enjoying on that fairway was bought

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at a very high price. It prevents the place from

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just being a generic resort. It anchors it in

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the tragic history of the nation. Anchored in

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history is a great phrase for it. But let's fast

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forward a bit. The war ends. The course gets

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built. The world wars come and go. Right. And

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we get to the modern era. And this is where the

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secrets part of our deep dive comes in. Because

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Sainte -Claude isn't just about dead painters

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and old emperors. It's about living politicians.

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This is where we get into the Republic of Golf.

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In France, power isn't always exercised inside

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the Elysee Palace. Sometimes it happens on a

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Monday morning walk. The source material specifically

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flags President François Mitterrand here. And

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the routine they describe is so specific it sounds

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like a religious ritual. It essentially was a

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ritual. Starting in April 1983, Mitterrand would

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go to St. Cloud almost every single Monday morning.

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Like clockwork. Yes. Now remember, Mitterrand

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was a very complex figure, highly intellectual,

00:09:12.259 --> 00:09:14.960
somewhat distant, very calculating. He didn't

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just play golf to get some fresh air. He played

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exactly nine holes. And he always brought the

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exact same guy with him, Jacques Attali. His

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special advisor, his Sherpa, essentially. So

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picture this. It's the 1980s. The Cold War is

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still very much a reality. The French economy

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is going through massive structural changes.

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Tense times. Very tense. And you have the president

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of the republic and his top brain walking these

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quiet fairways. They definitely aren't talking

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about how to fix their slice, are they? Highly

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doubtful. The club refers to this as Riso d 'Influence.

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Networks of influence. Right. You have to imagine

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that while they were walking up the fourth or

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the fifth hole, they were discussing cabinet

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reshuffles, nuclear policy, international relations.

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Just massive state decisions between putts. Exactly.

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The isolation of the golf course provides something

00:10:05.629 --> 00:10:07.990
the highest offices of government cannot. True.

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Absolute privacy. No microphones. No secretaries

00:10:11.009 --> 00:10:13.990
listening in. Just the wind, the grass and the

00:10:13.990 --> 00:10:16.330
game. It's the ultimate smoke -filled back room,

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except it's out in the fresh air on manicured

00:10:18.590 --> 00:10:21.129
greens. And there's a specific visual that connects

00:10:21.129 --> 00:10:23.029
this beautifully, right? The view from the eighth

00:10:23.029 --> 00:10:25.429
hole. Oh, yes. Hole eight offers this direct,

00:10:25.549 --> 00:10:28.289
perfectly framed view of the Eiffel Tower. Which

00:10:28.289 --> 00:10:30.950
is incredibly symbolic in itself. You're standing

00:10:30.950 --> 00:10:33.110
there discussing the fate of the nation with

00:10:33.110 --> 00:10:35.889
your top advisor, and you look up and see the

00:10:35.889 --> 00:10:38.470
Iron Lady of Paris just staring back at you.

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It's like the city is watching your every move.

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It visually connects the quiet sanctuary of the

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club directly to the loud machinery of the state.

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It reminds you that you are only 12 kilometers

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away from the harsh reality you are governing.

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I just love the mental image of Mitterrand trying

00:10:55.039 --> 00:10:58.080
to line up a tricky putt while Attali is whispering

00:10:58.080 --> 00:11:00.340
in his ear about inflation rates. It's quite

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a picture. But we have to be fair to the serious

00:11:02.620 --> 00:11:05.220
golfers listening to this. St. Cloud isn't just

00:11:05.220 --> 00:11:08.200
a political prop or a historical graveyard. It's

00:11:08.200 --> 00:11:10.519
a seriously prestigious competitive venue. Oh,

00:11:10.559 --> 00:11:12.820
absolutely. We cannot let the political history

00:11:12.820 --> 00:11:16.100
overshadow the actual sport. St. Cloud has a

00:11:16.100 --> 00:11:18.980
massive competitive pedigree. It hosted the Open

00:11:18.980 --> 00:11:21.179
de France, which, by the way, is the oldest national

00:11:21.179 --> 00:11:23.500
open in continental Europe. That's a huge deal.

00:11:23.600 --> 00:11:26.740
It is. And they hosted it 13 times between 1926

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and 1987. And when you look at the winners on

00:11:29.620 --> 00:11:32.440
that list, these aren't obscure, forgotten names.

00:11:32.720 --> 00:11:35.639
These are titans of the sport. They are the literal

00:11:35.639 --> 00:11:37.820
history of golf. You have Aubrey Boomer winning

00:11:37.820 --> 00:11:41.759
back in 1926. Then, right after World War II

00:11:41.759 --> 00:11:45.799
in 1946, Henry Cotton wins. Can we pause on Henry

00:11:45.799 --> 00:11:49.080
Cotty for a second? Because that name might not

00:11:49.080 --> 00:11:51.879
mean much to a casual sports fan today. Sure.

00:11:51.960 --> 00:11:54.870
Henry Cotton was essentially... the Tiger Woods

00:11:54.870 --> 00:11:58.629
of European golf in the 30s and 40s. He was British,

00:11:58.750 --> 00:12:01.490
incredibly stylish, lived this glamorous high

00:12:01.490 --> 00:12:04.929
society life. But on the course, he was a fierce,

00:12:05.070 --> 00:12:07.570
ruthless competitor. So him winning there was

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his statement. Exactly. Him winning at St. Cloud

00:12:10.509 --> 00:12:12.990
right after the devastation of the war signaled

00:12:12.990 --> 00:12:15.169
to the world that the club was fully back as

00:12:15.169 --> 00:12:17.990
a premier elite venue. And then the modern legends

00:12:17.990 --> 00:12:21.259
start rolling in. Yeah. 1980, Greg Norman. The

00:12:21.259 --> 00:12:23.559
great white shark himself. A legendary power

00:12:23.559 --> 00:12:25.600
player. And that's really interesting because

00:12:25.600 --> 00:12:27.919
as we discussed earlier, St. Cloud, especially

00:12:27.919 --> 00:12:30.600
the green course designed by Colt, isn't a monster

00:12:30.600 --> 00:12:32.480
distance course. Right. It's about strategy.

00:12:32.559 --> 00:12:35.679
So seeing a pure power player like Norman Wynn

00:12:35.679 --> 00:12:38.799
there shows that this course demands true versatility.

00:12:39.039 --> 00:12:40.759
You can't just bomb the ball off the tee. You

00:12:40.759 --> 00:12:42.980
have to think your way around. And then my personal

00:12:42.980 --> 00:12:46.759
favorite from the research list, 1995, the Tournois

00:12:46.759 --> 00:12:53.810
-Perry -de -Perry. The winners were a duo. The

00:12:53.810 --> 00:12:57.269
Spanish Armada, that is pure, unadulterated golf

00:12:57.269 --> 00:13:00.120
magic right there. Totally. Sev and Ola Zabel

00:13:00.120 --> 00:13:03.120
were arguably the most creative, imaginative

00:13:03.120 --> 00:13:05.700
players in the history of the game. St. Cloud

00:13:05.700 --> 00:13:07.679
is absolutely perfect for them because it requires

00:13:07.679 --> 00:13:10.399
that exact imagination. It's not a robotic point

00:13:10.399 --> 00:13:13.039
A to point B course. Exactly. Seeing them win

00:13:13.039 --> 00:13:15.320
there is like seeing a master conductor working

00:13:15.320 --> 00:13:17.799
in the world's most acoustically perfect concert

00:13:17.799 --> 00:13:20.519
hall. The player and the venue were perfectly

00:13:20.519 --> 00:13:23.039
matched. But the notes also make a point to emphasize

00:13:23.039 --> 00:13:25.480
that St. Cloud isn't just an old boys club when

00:13:25.480 --> 00:13:27.980
it comes to tournaments. The women's golf history

00:13:27.980 --> 00:13:30.830
here is arguably even more consistent. It is

00:13:30.830 --> 00:13:34.330
deeply significant to their identity. Since 1927,

00:13:34.629 --> 00:13:36.950
Saint -Claude has hosted the French International

00:13:36.950 --> 00:13:40.269
Lady Juniors Amateur Championship. They call

00:13:40.269 --> 00:13:44.509
it the Esmond Cup. 1927. That is literally a

00:13:44.509 --> 00:13:47.029
century of consistency. Just think about how

00:13:47.029 --> 00:13:49.470
much the world and women's sports in general

00:13:49.470 --> 00:13:52.909
has changed since 1927. Unrecognizable. But every

00:13:52.909 --> 00:13:55.909
single year, the best young female golfers in

00:13:55.909 --> 00:13:58.830
the world come to this exact same plot of land

00:13:58.830 --> 00:14:02.049
to test them. It's an ultimate proving ground.

00:14:02.250 --> 00:14:04.289
And they've also had the Baliano Trophy in 36

00:14:04.289 --> 00:14:07.169
and 47, the European Ladies Team Championship

00:14:07.169 --> 00:14:10.070
in 75. It really seems like the club has made

00:14:10.070 --> 00:14:13.169
a specific intentional point of being a central

00:14:13.169 --> 00:14:15.649
hub for the women's game. It really has. And

00:14:15.649 --> 00:14:17.570
that adds a whole other layer to its identity.

00:14:17.809 --> 00:14:20.269
It's not just a dusty place for old presidents

00:14:20.269 --> 00:14:23.370
to hide away. It's a launch pad for young, up

00:14:23.370 --> 00:14:25.870
-and -coming female athletes. It balances that

00:14:25.870 --> 00:14:28.330
heavy old world history with a constant, fresh

00:14:28.330 --> 00:14:31.029
inflexibility. And that continues even recently,

00:14:31.169 --> 00:14:33.289
right? The Legends Open to France was hosted

00:14:33.289 --> 00:14:36.909
there in 2021. Yes, won by Thomas Livet. So the

00:14:36.909 --> 00:14:39.570
story is still actively being written. It hasn't

00:14:39.570 --> 00:14:43.350
become a museum piece under glass that you can't

00:14:43.350 --> 00:14:46.549
touch. It's still a living, breathing, competitive

00:14:46.549 --> 00:14:49.570
arena. So let's try to pull all these different

00:14:49.570 --> 00:14:51.740
threads together for you listening. Because we

00:14:51.740 --> 00:14:53.759
started this conversation talking about deception.

00:14:54.019 --> 00:14:57.240
We did. About how a place can look like one simple

00:14:57.240 --> 00:15:00.059
thing, but actually be something entirely different

00:15:00.059 --> 00:15:02.840
underneath. And I really think St. Cloud is the

00:15:02.840 --> 00:15:05.460
ultimate example of that concept. If you just

00:15:05.460 --> 00:15:07.759
drive past it on the road or look at it on a

00:15:07.759 --> 00:15:10.419
satellite map, you see a golf course, you see

00:15:10.419 --> 00:15:13.720
green grass, fairways, a few sand traps. Very

00:15:13.720 --> 00:15:16.120
simple. Very peaceful. But if you possess the

00:15:16.120 --> 00:15:18.200
context, the history we've talked about today,

00:15:18.379 --> 00:15:21.259
you see a palimpsest. You see layers of history

00:15:21.259 --> 00:15:23.340
written over other layers. You see the ghost

00:15:23.340 --> 00:15:25.419
of Empress Josephine walking the grounds. You

00:15:25.419 --> 00:15:27.480
see the smoke and the artillery fire of the Battle

00:15:27.480 --> 00:15:29.419
of Boussainval right there on the 15th fairway.

00:15:29.519 --> 00:15:32.899
You see the tragic bust of Henri Regnault watching

00:15:32.899 --> 00:15:36.720
you on the 14th. And you see Francois Mitterrand

00:15:36.720 --> 00:15:39.700
and Jacques Attali deep in a classified conversation

00:15:39.700 --> 00:15:43.600
on the eighth hole with the Eiffel Tower looming

00:15:43.600 --> 00:15:46.460
in the distance. Yeah. And then you overlay all

00:15:46.460 --> 00:15:49.100
of that with the roars of the crowd for Sev Ballestros

00:15:49.100 --> 00:15:52.000
or the intense focus of a junior women's champion

00:15:52.000 --> 00:15:54.559
lining up a putt. It's almost overwhelming when

00:15:54.559 --> 00:15:56.759
you stack it all up like that. It challenges

00:15:56.759 --> 00:15:59.299
the way we look at leisure spaces. We tend to

00:15:59.299 --> 00:16:01.500
think of a golf course or even just local park

00:16:01.500 --> 00:16:04.750
as a break from the real. world, a place where

00:16:04.750 --> 00:16:07.710
history just stops. But St. Cloud proves that

00:16:07.710 --> 00:16:10.070
the real world is everywhere. History doesn't

00:16:10.070 --> 00:16:12.730
just politely stop at the clubhouse gate. The

00:16:12.730 --> 00:16:15.129
land remembers what happened there. And frankly,

00:16:15.370 --> 00:16:18.450
the game of golf is richer for it. How so? Well,

00:16:18.490 --> 00:16:21.029
playing that 15th hole has to be a totally different

00:16:21.029 --> 00:16:22.850
experience when you know what happened beneath

00:16:22.850 --> 00:16:25.090
your feet. It demands certain respect from the

00:16:25.090 --> 00:16:27.190
player. It makes me wonder about other everyday

00:16:27.190 --> 00:16:30.179
places we visit. The park down the street. The

00:16:30.179 --> 00:16:32.379
shopping mall that used to be. Well, who knows

00:16:32.379 --> 00:16:34.120
what it used to be? That is the big takeaway

00:16:34.120 --> 00:16:37.820
here. Everywhere has a story, if you are willing

00:16:37.820 --> 00:16:41.059
to dig deeply enough. St. Cloud just happens

00:16:41.059 --> 00:16:43.899
to have a particularly dramatic, bloody, and

00:16:43.899 --> 00:16:46.759
glamorous one. It's essentially a museum without

00:16:46.759 --> 00:16:48.700
walls, where you just happen to be able to play

00:16:48.700 --> 00:16:50.980
around a golf. I love that. A museum without

00:16:50.980 --> 00:16:53.320
walls. Next time you're on a golf course, you'll

00:16:53.320 --> 00:16:55.419
probably be looking at the ground a little differently.

00:16:56.250 --> 00:16:58.490
Maybe wondering who marched there before you

00:16:58.490 --> 00:17:00.750
decided to slice your drive into the woods. Hey,

00:17:00.970 --> 00:17:04.549
I resent that. But honestly, it brings up a wild

00:17:04.549 --> 00:17:06.920
thought to leave you all with. We've talked about

00:17:06.920 --> 00:17:09.400
the history stacked on top of this land, but

00:17:09.400 --> 00:17:11.299
think about the physical maintenance of a golf

00:17:11.299 --> 00:17:14.420
course. A groundskeeping. Yeah. To keep a course

00:17:14.420 --> 00:17:17.940
that pristine, they are constantly digging, aerating

00:17:17.940 --> 00:17:20.819
the soil, moving earth for new bunkers or irrigation

00:17:20.819 --> 00:17:23.160
lines. Oh, I see where you're going. Right. Every

00:17:23.160 --> 00:17:25.200
time a groundskeeper puts a shovel in the dirt

00:17:25.200 --> 00:17:28.180
at St. Cloud, they are actively managing a historical

00:17:28.180 --> 00:17:31.500
site. What are they quietly unearthing out there?

00:17:31.819 --> 00:17:36.039
A rusted belt buckle from 1871. Exactly. A shattered

00:17:36.039 --> 00:17:39.019
piece of Prussian artillery, or maybe even something

00:17:39.019 --> 00:17:41.839
from Empress Josephine's garden. They're literally

00:17:41.839 --> 00:17:44.460
manicuring the surface to hide the chaos underneath,

00:17:44.799 --> 00:17:48.220
day in and day out. It makes you wonder how many

00:17:48.220 --> 00:17:50.559
historical artifacts are sitting at the bottom

00:17:50.559 --> 00:17:54.059
of those pristine white sand traps. That is a

00:17:54.059 --> 00:17:56.259
fascinating thing to mull over. Just try to keep

00:17:56.259 --> 00:17:58.319
your ball out of the bunkers and leave the digging

00:17:58.319 --> 00:18:01.700
to the historians. Solid advice as always. That

00:18:01.700 --> 00:18:03.579
is it for this deep dive into the hidden layers

00:18:03.579 --> 00:18:06.279
of Gulf to St. Cloud. We really hope we've given

00:18:06.279 --> 00:18:08.279
you a brand new perspective on how history hides

00:18:08.279 --> 00:18:10.339
in plain sight. Keep looking beneath the surface.

00:18:10.480 --> 00:18:11.640
We will catch you on the next one.
