WEBVTT

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Welcome back to the deep dive. So I want to start

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today by asking you a question that I think I

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think most of us have asked ourselves at some

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point, usually at like three in the morning when

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you just can't sleep. Oh, yeah. The dreaded 3

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a .m. existential crisis. Right. Exactly. So

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what if you just what if you just stopped? Like

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what if you looked at the life you built, you

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know, the career, the house, all the expectations

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and you just walked out the door and never came

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back? Well, it is the ultimate fantasy, isn't

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it? The escape hatch. We all have it in the back

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of our minds. But usually when people actually

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pull that lever, it's because things are going

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wrong. Yeah, they're running away from something.

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Exactly. They're broke or they're in legal trouble

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or just running from a complete disaster. Right.

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But the story we are unpacking today is different.

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We are going to look at a man who pulled that

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lever when everything was going perfectly. We

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are talking about Dorian Paskovitz, or as most

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people know him. Doc Pascovitz. And to just call

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him a surfer, really, it really doesn't do it

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justice. Not at all. That is kind of like calling

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Ernest Hemingway just a fisherman. Yeah, that's

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a good way to put it. This is a guy who had what

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you could call the golden ticket. He was a Jewish

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doctor from Texas, and he graduated from Stanford

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Medical School in 1946, which we will get into

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because that is a massive deal. Oh, absolutely

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massive. And he basically looked to the American

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dream and just said, no, thank you. He ended

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up raising nine kids in a camper van, refusing

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to send them to any sort of school and just chasing

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waves for a quarter of a century. It is genuinely

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one of the most radical sociological experiments

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of the 20th century. And I do use the word experiment

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deliberately there because when you look at the

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sources we have for this deep dive, the biographical

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data, the Wikipedia archives, the 2007 documentary

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Surfwise, you realize this wasn't just a long

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family vacation. No, not at all. This was a man

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trying to engineer what he saw as a superior

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way of living, a superior type of human. completely

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within his own family unit. Which sounds a little

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ominous, honestly. It's extremely complex. It's

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a story about freedom, for sure, but it's equally

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a story about control. It forces us to ask if

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it's even possible to be truly free without inflicting

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a sort of chaotic reality on the people you love.

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And that is exactly the mission for this deep

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dive. We aren't just doing a biography of a famous

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surfer. We want to stress test this whole idea

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of the alternative lifestyle. Because, you know,

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you look on social media today and van life looks

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like these beautiful sunsets and portable espresso

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machines. Right. It looks curated. Yeah, curated.

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But the reality of the Pascoats family was something

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else entirely. We're going to go through his

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origin story, how he went from medical school

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to a surfboard. Then we'll get into the radical

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living situation, 25 years in a camper van. Which

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is just staggering to think about. We'll dig

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into his highly controversial philosophy on health

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and education, look at the shadow side of the

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family dynamics revealed in that documentary,

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and finally discuss his late -life activism in

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Gaza. It's a wild ride. So let's go back to the

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beginning. Because to really understand why he

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left, you have to understand what he was actually

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walking away from. We need to map this out, starting

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in Texas. The physician who quit. Right. Dorian

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Paskowitz, born March 3, 1921, in Galveston,

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Texas. Now, looking at the demographic context

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here is really important. He's the son of Russian

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Jewish immigrants, Louis and Rose Paskowitz.

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And being part of a Jewish immigrant family in

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Texas in the 1920s, that comes with a very specific

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kind of pressure, doesn't it? immense pressure.

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You have to remember the narrative of that generation

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of immigrants. The ethos was very much we came

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here with a nothing so you could be everything.

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Right. Success wasn't really an option. It was

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a mandate. And the Paskowitz kids had serious

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drive. I mean, his sister was Sonya Derrick.

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The actress. She was in the big sleep with Humphrey

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Bogart. Correct. So you have this incredibly

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high achieving gene pool. And Dorian, he aims

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for the absolute peak of professional success.

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He goes to San Diego State, transfers to Stanford

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University. Then he gets into Stanford Medical

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School. OK, let's stop right there. I want to

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really drill down on this for you listening.

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Stanford Medical School in 1946. Today, obviously,

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being a doctor is highly prestigious. But in

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1946, what did that actually mean for his social

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standing? It is hard to overstate it. You have

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to look at the historical moment. World War II

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has just ended. The United States is really the

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only superpower left standing with its infrastructure

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completely intact. The economy is about to explode

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into this massive post -war boom. And medicine

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was changing, too. Exactly. Medicine was entering

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its golden age. Antibiotics like penicillin were

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becoming widely available. Doctors were actively

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conquering diseases that used to be death sentences.

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A doctor in 1946 wasn't just seen as a highly

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skilled service provider. A doctor was practically

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a god in a white coat. So he is holding this

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Stanford medical degree. He is set for life.

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Guaranteed wealth, guaranteed respect. The country

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club membership, the big house in the suburbs,

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the whole nine yards. He had the keys to the

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kingdom. He had made it by every single metric

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that American society had to offer. If he had

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just stayed on that path, he would have been

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a wealthy, retired physician playing golf in

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Palm Springs by the 1980s. But something happened

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in that exact same year he graduated. Yeah. 1946.

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There's a crack in the windshield. The catalyst.

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He visits Hawaii. Now, Hawaiian 46 wasn't the

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resort destination that you and I know today.

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It wasn't even a state yet. No, it was a territory.

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It was much wilder, much more raw. And while

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he is there, he goes surfing with Duke Hanamoku.

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The Duke. Basically, the father of modern surfing.

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The absolute legend. And you have to realize,

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this isn't like taking a surf lesson at a resort

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today where they push you into a wave on a soft

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foam board. Surfing in 1946 meant handling massive,

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heavy redwood planks. Right, they didn't have

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fiberglass. Exactly. These boards weighed nearly

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100 pounds. It was a deeply, physically demanding,

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visceral battle with the ocean. I am just imagining

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the contrast here. On one hand... He has the

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sterile, rigid, extremely high stakes world of

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the hospital, you know, fluorescent lights, life

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and death, rigid hierarchies. And on the other

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hand, he is out in the Pacific Ocean with the

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Duke wrestling a hundred pound piece of wood

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on a massive wave. That is the big aha moment

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for him. It wasn't just a fun afternoon. It was

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a spiritual awakening. He saw a fluidity and

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a connection to nature out in the water that

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suddenly made the hospital feel like a prison.

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But, and this is a key point, he didn't quit

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right then and there. Right. He tried to play

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the part for a while. He did. He went back to

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the mainland. He practiced medicine. But the

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source material points to a very turbulent personal

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life during this period. He had two marriages

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that ultimately failed while he was working as

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a doctor. And he had two daughters from those

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early marriages. Yes. And while we don't have

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extensive deep details on the day -to -day of

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those relationships, the overall pattern is super

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clear. He was trying to fit a square peg into

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a round hole. The golden handcuffs were chafing

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him. He was making money. He had the status,

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but he was completely miserable. The sources

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quote him simply realizing that he, quote, was

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not happy as a doctor. It sounds so simple when

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you say it like that. I wasn't happy. But think

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about the courage or maybe the madness it takes

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to admit that when you were that deep into a

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career. Most people in that situation would just

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die convertible or something. They wouldn't dismantle

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their entire existence. Well, that is the difference

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between a midlife crisis and a total paradigm

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shift. Paskowitz was looking for a completely

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new paradigm. And interestingly, his first major

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pivot wasn't actually moving into a van. It was

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moving to Israel. This is in the 1950s, right?

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Yes. He travels to Israel for a year. And he

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finds a real resonance there. He felt more at

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home, more himself in that environment than he

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ever did in the American medical establishment.

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He even tried to join the military. During the

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Suez Crisis in 1956. Right. He actively volunteered

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for the Israeli army. He wanted to fight. He

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wanted to be part of something visceral and real,

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something physical. But they turned him down.

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They did. But that rejection didn't send him

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crawling back to a hospital in California. It

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actually solidified his resolve. He realized

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he couldn't go back to the rat race. When he

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returned to the U .S., he was officially done.

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He decided to dedicate his life entirely to surfing.

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And this leads us right into the radical experiment.

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Because he didn't just become a solitary beach

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bum, he built a tribe. This is where the story

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shifts from a simple biography to a sociological

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study. He meets his third wife, Juliette Peyes.

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And Juliette, I mean... We really have to give

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her credit here. She went along with a life plan

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that almost anyone else would run screaming from.

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She was the anchor of this whole operation. Without

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her, Doc is just a guy shouting at the waves.

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With her, he became a patriarch, they get married,

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and they start having kids. A lot of kids. Nine

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children in total. Eight sons and one daughter.

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And they decide, or rather, the sources indicate,

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Doc largely decides, that they are not going

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to live in a house. They are going to live on

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the road, embracing this transient bohemian lifestyle.

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And they kept this up for roughly 25 years. A

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quarter of a century. I really want to pause

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here and visualize this. Because when we say

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they lived in a camper van, I think modern listeners

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might be picturing a luxury sprinter van. Or

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a big Winnebago with slide outs and a separate

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master bedroom. Not even close. We are talking

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about a succession of very basic used camper

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vans, often around 24 feet long, for 11 people.

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11 people in 24 feet. That is basically prison

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density. It is tighter than a submarine. Imagine

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the logistics of that daily life. Where do people

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sleep? They were literally stacked like cordwood

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inside this thing. Where do you put the surfboards?

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How do you cook meals? The bathroom situation

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alone is enough to induce panic. It forced a

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level of intimacy that is almost incomprehensible

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to modern families. There is no going to your

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room to cool off. There is no privacy. If you

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have an argument, the whole family is part of

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the argument. If one person catches a cold, all

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11 people get the cold. But it wasn't just a

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chaotic free -for -all. This is what fascinates

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me the most. It wasn't some hippie commune where

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everyone just did whatever they felt like doing.

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It was a strict dictatorship. Doc? Ran that van

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like a boot camp. Absolutely. He was the commander.

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Yeah. And the overarching mission of this boot

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camp was health, but not health in the way you

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or I might casually think of it. He had a very

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specific, rigid philosophy. Let's talk about

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the Paskowitz regime. Where do the actual rules?

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Well, first and foremost, surfing was mandatory.

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Which sounds cool at first until you realize

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you have to do it every single day whether you

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want to or not. Exactly. It wasn't just playtime.

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It was rigorous training. Everyone was expected

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to improve their skills daily. Every morning

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they were out in the water. But the diet, the

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diet is where it gets really intense. Digi is

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the word that comes to mind. Tell us about breakfast.

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Doc achieved this sort of health guru status

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eventually. He was actually way ahead of his

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time in rejecting processed foods, refined sugars,

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and the whole fast food culture that was booming

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in the 60s and 70s. He was definitely onto something

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there. He was, but he took it to an absolute

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extreme. He advocated for natural diets, very

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low in fat. One of his children later described

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their stable breakfast meal as a multigrain gruel.

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Gruel. I am picturing this gray, flavorless paste.

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much exactly what it was. No sugar, no milk,

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just raw functional fuel. Doc fundamentally believed

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that food was for function, not for pleasure.

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He even believed that feeling a little hunger

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was good for you. He kept the kids incredibly

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lean. So you have these nine kids waking up in

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a cramped 24 -foot van, eating literal paste,

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and then being marched into the cold ocean to

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train. It feels less like the endless summer

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and more like ancient Spartan training. That

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is a fantastic analogy. He was raising Spartans.

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He wanted them to be tough, highly resilient,

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and completely independent of what he saw as

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the soft American lifestyle. He viewed modern

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comfort almost as a disease. But here is the

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thing that really rubs people the wrong way,

00:12:02.460 --> 00:12:04.500
and we have to dig into it. There's one thing

00:12:04.500 --> 00:12:07.139
to control their diet and their exercise. It

00:12:07.139 --> 00:12:09.700
is another thing entirely to control their minds.

00:12:10.519 --> 00:12:13.379
Which brings us to his philosophy on knowledge

00:12:13.379 --> 00:12:16.940
versus wisdom. This is undoubtedly the most controversial

00:12:16.940 --> 00:12:20.080
part of the Paskowitz legacy. Remember our context

00:12:20.080 --> 00:12:23.389
here. Doc is a Stanford man. He even spent time

00:12:23.389 --> 00:12:26.090
teaching at community colleges like Palomar College.

00:12:26.350 --> 00:12:29.250
He knew exactly what the value of a formal education

00:12:29.250 --> 00:12:31.970
was. And yet he completely banned it for his

00:12:31.970 --> 00:12:34.750
own kids. Completely. None of the nine Pasquitz

00:12:34.750 --> 00:12:37.009
children received any formal education while

00:12:37.009 --> 00:12:38.750
they were living on the road. No high school,

00:12:38.870 --> 00:12:41.350
no elementary school. Did he even homeschool

00:12:41.350 --> 00:12:43.309
them? Was there some kind of curriculum in the

00:12:43.309 --> 00:12:46.419
van? Not in any traditional sense, no. There

00:12:46.419 --> 00:12:49.059
were no textbooks. There were no exams. Doc's

00:12:49.059 --> 00:12:51.559
entire philosophy was based on a very sharp distinction

00:12:51.559 --> 00:12:54.700
between knowledge and wisdom. Break that down

00:12:54.700 --> 00:12:56.779
for us. What was his argument? He believed that

00:12:56.779 --> 00:12:59.840
formal school systems were just factories. He

00:12:59.840 --> 00:13:02.059
thought that formal education homogenized the

00:13:02.059 --> 00:13:04.320
mind, that it taught you to think like everyone

00:13:04.320 --> 00:13:07.100
else, to just be a compliant cog in the machine.

00:13:07.539 --> 00:13:10.220
The source material shows he viewed formal education

00:13:10.220 --> 00:13:14.279
as literally dangerous to young minds. Dangerous.

00:13:14.659 --> 00:13:17.120
That is a heavy accusation coming from a guy

00:13:17.120 --> 00:13:19.799
with a medical degree. He believed that true

00:13:19.799 --> 00:13:22.879
wisdom came from real -world experience. From

00:13:22.879 --> 00:13:25.620
travel, from meeting everyday people in beach

00:13:25.620 --> 00:13:28.259
parking lots, from negotiating with local mechanics

00:13:28.259 --> 00:13:30.659
when the van broke down, from learning to read

00:13:30.659 --> 00:13:33.120
the currents of the ocean. He wanted his children

00:13:33.120 --> 00:13:35.379
to be street smart in the deepest possible sense

00:13:35.379 --> 00:13:37.899
of the term. He wanted them to live in the world,

00:13:37.960 --> 00:13:40.340
not just read about it in a classroom. I had

00:13:40.340 --> 00:13:42.539
to play devil's advocate here, though. That sounds

00:13:42.539 --> 00:13:44.779
very romantic, but isn't it also incredibly limiting?

00:13:45.120 --> 00:13:47.779
I mean, street smarts are great, but they don't

00:13:47.779 --> 00:13:50.139
help you understand calculus or world history

00:13:50.139 --> 00:13:52.940
or even how to write a standard resume. That

00:13:52.940 --> 00:13:56.940
is the critical flaw in his experiment. He personally

00:13:56.940 --> 00:13:58.700
had the safety net. He had the Stanford degree.

00:13:58.919 --> 00:14:01.379
He could always go back to being a doctor if

00:14:01.379 --> 00:14:03.500
the surfing lifestyle failed. And in fact, he

00:14:03.500 --> 00:14:05.240
occasionally did pick up short -term medical

00:14:05.240 --> 00:14:08.620
work just to fund the gas tank. But his children,

00:14:08.899 --> 00:14:11.980
they had zero safety net. He cut the net away

00:14:11.980 --> 00:14:14.100
entirely. He burned their bridges before they

00:14:14.100 --> 00:14:16.259
even had a chance to cross them. Precisely. He

00:14:16.259 --> 00:14:18.879
bet their entire futures on his personal philosophy.

00:14:19.159 --> 00:14:21.340
So the million -dollar question. Did the bet

00:14:21.340 --> 00:14:23.700
actually pay off? Were they successful? Well,

00:14:23.759 --> 00:14:26.179
it depends entirely on what metrics you use to

00:14:26.179 --> 00:14:28.519
define success. If you define it by the metrics

00:14:28.519 --> 00:14:31.139
dog valued surfing ability, physical health,

00:14:31.220 --> 00:14:33.840
artistic output, then yes, it was a massive success.

00:14:34.059 --> 00:14:35.799
They became known as the first family of surfing.

00:14:35.919 --> 00:14:38.500
They did. They were absolute icons in that world.

00:14:38.600 --> 00:14:41.000
For instance, Israel Paskowitz Izzy became a

00:14:41.000 --> 00:14:43.100
world class competitive surfer. He won the U

00:14:43.100 --> 00:14:45.740
.S. Longboarding Championship in 1989. You also

00:14:45.740 --> 00:14:48.000
had significant commercial success with endorsement

00:14:48.000 --> 00:14:51.179
income and creative output, too. Salvador became

00:14:51.179 --> 00:14:53.679
a successful screenwriter and producer. Adam

00:14:53.679 --> 00:14:55.840
and Josh started a rock band called The Flies.

00:14:55.940 --> 00:14:59.000
The Flies. Got you where I want you. That song

00:14:59.000 --> 00:15:01.480
was absolutely everywhere in the late 90s. Right.

00:15:01.539 --> 00:15:04.120
So clearly, these kids weren't unintelligent.

00:15:04.139 --> 00:15:06.960
They were highly creative, driven, and talented.

00:15:07.340 --> 00:15:09.600
You could certainly argue that the lack of formal

00:15:09.600 --> 00:15:11.940
schooling allowed their natural creativity to

00:15:11.940 --> 00:15:15.039
flourish uncensored by institutional rules. But,

00:15:15.039 --> 00:15:17.539
and there's always a but, when we talk about

00:15:17.539 --> 00:15:19.610
this family, we really have to look at the human

00:15:19.610 --> 00:15:22.730
cost. Because you simply cannot lock nine kids

00:15:22.730 --> 00:15:25.789
in a van for two decades without creating some

00:15:25.789 --> 00:15:29.330
serious psychological scar tissue. Which brings

00:15:29.330 --> 00:15:31.730
us to the shadow side of the story. This is where

00:15:31.730 --> 00:15:34.309
the narrative sharply shifts from the sunny legend

00:15:34.309 --> 00:15:37.570
to the gritty reality. For years, the Paskowitz

00:15:37.570 --> 00:15:40.649
family was this mythical, perfect entity in surfing

00:15:40.649 --> 00:15:43.590
magazines. But in 2007, a documentary called

00:15:43.590 --> 00:15:46.169
Surfwise came out. Directed by Doug Prey. And

00:15:46.169 --> 00:15:47.690
I've read about this. It was definitely not a

00:15:47.690 --> 00:15:50.190
promotional puff piece. No, it was a deep, often

00:15:50.190 --> 00:15:52.710
painful confessional. And here is a detail from

00:15:52.710 --> 00:15:54.870
the sources that I find absolutely staggering.

00:15:55.350 --> 00:15:57.389
Doc Paskowitz attended the premiere. He went

00:15:57.389 --> 00:15:59.990
to the screenings. But he never actually watched

00:15:59.990 --> 00:16:02.029
the film. Wait, explain that. He was physically

00:16:02.029 --> 00:16:04.559
in the theater. He would go to the event, shake

00:16:04.559 --> 00:16:07.220
hands, smile for the press cameras, and then

00:16:07.220 --> 00:16:09.320
he would wait out in the lobby or just leave

00:16:09.320 --> 00:16:12.399
while the movie actually played. He point -blank

00:16:12.399 --> 00:16:15.100
refused to see the mirror that the film held

00:16:15.100 --> 00:16:17.700
up to his life. That is the ultimate form of

00:16:17.700 --> 00:16:20.080
denial. Sort of a, I lived it, I don't need to

00:16:20.080 --> 00:16:23.259
see it attitude. Or maybe it was more like, I

00:16:23.259 --> 00:16:25.159
can't bear to hear how my kids actually felt

00:16:25.159 --> 00:16:28.600
about me. I heavily lean toward the latter. Because

00:16:28.600 --> 00:16:31.100
the film revealed what was described as a very

00:16:31.100 --> 00:16:34.559
uneasy atmosphere, the kids didn't paint a picture

00:16:34.559 --> 00:16:37.519
of endless summer joy. They spoke openly about

00:16:37.519 --> 00:16:39.820
holding very deep resentments. Who were the main

00:16:39.820 --> 00:16:42.340
grievances they had? The lack of education was

00:16:42.340 --> 00:16:45.120
a huge one. Many of them felt completely crippled

00:16:45.120 --> 00:16:46.659
when they finally stepped out of the van and

00:16:46.659 --> 00:16:49.519
into the real world. They felt stupid. They didn't

00:16:49.519 --> 00:16:51.480
know how to open a bank account, how to interact

00:16:51.480 --> 00:16:53.679
with normal society. They felt like aliens. And

00:16:53.679 --> 00:16:55.700
there was something darker too, right? The privacy

00:16:55.700 --> 00:16:59.789
issue in the van. Yes. In a 24 -foot van, sexual

00:16:59.789 --> 00:17:02.769
privacy between the parents is essentially impossible.

00:17:03.529 --> 00:17:05.950
The children were exposed to their parents' sexual

00:17:05.950 --> 00:17:08.289
activity in a way that was unavoidable given

00:17:08.289 --> 00:17:11.049
the space, but also deeply inappropriate for

00:17:11.049 --> 00:17:13.849
kids to be around. That is just a trauma. You

00:17:13.849 --> 00:17:16.410
can't spin that as being bohemian or natural.

00:17:16.470 --> 00:17:18.529
That is psychologically damaging. It blurred

00:17:18.529 --> 00:17:20.450
vital boundaries that children fundamentally

00:17:20.450 --> 00:17:23.009
need for their own security. And then on top

00:17:23.009 --> 00:17:25.529
of that, there were the rules. Doc was a tyrant.

00:17:25.950 --> 00:17:29.210
It was his way or the highway, literally. If

00:17:29.210 --> 00:17:31.430
you disagreed with his philosophy, you were seen

00:17:31.430 --> 00:17:34.009
as crushing the family's vibe. Did anyone manage

00:17:34.009 --> 00:17:36.769
to break out early? Yes, David, the eldest son.

00:17:36.890 --> 00:17:39.730
He left the van at age 23 to find his own life.

00:17:39.970 --> 00:17:42.170
23 seems pretty late to be running away from

00:17:42.170 --> 00:17:45.069
home. It is late. But think about the psychology

00:17:45.069 --> 00:17:48.529
of the situation. When you were raised in a sort

00:17:48.529 --> 00:17:51.150
of cult -like environment, and I use that term

00:17:51.150 --> 00:17:53.529
loosely, but it fits, the isolationist dynamic

00:17:53.529 --> 00:17:57.240
they had. Leaving is terrifying. The outside

00:17:57.240 --> 00:17:59.900
world is framed as the enemy. Doc had taught

00:17:59.900 --> 00:18:01.740
them their whole lives that the world was sick

00:18:01.740 --> 00:18:04.799
and the van was the only healthy place. So leaving

00:18:04.799 --> 00:18:07.259
meant entering the sick world completely alone.

00:18:07.460 --> 00:18:10.180
And without a high school diploma. Exactly. So

00:18:10.180 --> 00:18:12.819
David leaving was a massive rupture for the family.

00:18:12.960 --> 00:18:14.940
And there were various periods of estrangement

00:18:14.940 --> 00:18:16.640
where different children wouldn't speak to their

00:18:16.640 --> 00:18:19.000
parents for a long time. But and this is the

00:18:19.000 --> 00:18:21.480
twist that makes this whole story so human. They

00:18:21.480 --> 00:18:23.980
didn't stay away forever. No. By the time SurfWise

00:18:23.980 --> 00:18:26.299
was being filmed, all the children had reconciled

00:18:26.299 --> 00:18:28.279
with Doc and Juliet. Why do you think that is?

00:18:28.319 --> 00:18:31.220
Is it some form of Stockholm syndrome? Or is

00:18:31.220 --> 00:18:33.920
it just deep family love? I think it's what psychologists

00:18:33.920 --> 00:18:36.079
call a trauma bond. They went through something

00:18:36.079 --> 00:18:38.240
together that literally no one else on Earth

00:18:38.240 --> 00:18:41.099
could ever understand. Only a Paskovitz knows

00:18:41.099 --> 00:18:43.559
what it is like to be a Paskovitz. They are a

00:18:43.559 --> 00:18:46.119
tribe in the truest sense. They fought. They

00:18:46.119 --> 00:18:48.539
screamed. It was traumatic. But they remained

00:18:48.539 --> 00:18:51.400
a tight -knit unit. That first family of surfing

00:18:51.400 --> 00:18:54.059
title held true despite all the internal friction.

00:18:54.339 --> 00:18:56.920
It's incredibly complicated. It's messy. But

00:18:56.920 --> 00:19:00.079
it's real. Now, I want to pivot to the final

00:19:00.079 --> 00:19:03.720
act of Doc's life. Because just when you think

00:19:03.720 --> 00:19:06.259
you have him completely pegged as this selfish,

00:19:06.480 --> 00:19:09.200
controlling patriarch, he does something incredibly

00:19:09.200 --> 00:19:11.599
selfless. Let's talk about Surfing for Peace.

00:19:11.859 --> 00:19:13.819
This is a fascinating chapter. It's August 2007.

00:19:14.589 --> 00:19:16.569
Doc is in his 80s at this point. He's an old

00:19:16.569 --> 00:19:18.609
man. He is, but he reads an article in the LA

00:19:18.609 --> 00:19:20.509
Times about the situation in the Gaza Strip.

00:19:20.609 --> 00:19:22.390
And just for context for you listening, 2007

00:19:22.390 --> 00:19:25.990
in Gaza was an extremely volatile time. Yes.

00:19:26.009 --> 00:19:28.730
To provide the geopolitical facts here, Hamas

00:19:28.730 --> 00:19:31.589
had just taken control of Gaza in June of 2007.

00:19:32.150 --> 00:19:35.549
The region was incredibly tense. Israel had imposed

00:19:35.549 --> 00:19:38.190
a strict blockade, and they were only allowing

00:19:38.190 --> 00:19:40.589
essential humanitarian supplies to cross the

00:19:40.589 --> 00:19:43.430
border. Food. medicine, that sort of thing. And

00:19:43.430 --> 00:19:45.769
Doc reads this article about this blockaded zone

00:19:45.769 --> 00:19:48.029
and what does he take away from it? Well, the

00:19:48.029 --> 00:19:50.230
article specifically mentioned that there was

00:19:50.230 --> 00:19:52.529
a small community of surfers in Gaza, but they

00:19:52.529 --> 00:19:54.329
didn't have any surfboards. They were trying

00:19:54.329 --> 00:19:57.210
to surf by sharing broken pieces of foam. And

00:19:57.210 --> 00:19:59.789
Doc, this Jewish doctor who had tried to join

00:19:59.789 --> 00:20:02.230
the Israeli army back in the 50s, looks at that

00:20:02.230 --> 00:20:04.630
and thinks, that is a tragedy I can actually

00:20:04.630 --> 00:20:07.329
fix. To him, a surfer without a board was almost

00:20:07.329 --> 00:20:09.230
worse than a patient without a medicine. In a

00:20:09.230 --> 00:20:12.490
way, yes. He viewed surfing as a universal language,

00:20:12.589 --> 00:20:15.220
almost a fundamental human right. So he launches

00:20:15.220 --> 00:20:18.500
this project called Surfing for Peace. But practically

00:20:18.500 --> 00:20:20.680
speaking, how do you get surfboards into a highly

00:20:20.680 --> 00:20:23.220
secured, blockaded zone? You can't exactly just

00:20:23.220 --> 00:20:26.480
ship them through the mail. No, it required serious

00:20:26.480 --> 00:20:30.380
negotiation. You had to personally persuade the

00:20:30.380 --> 00:20:32.099
Israeli government and the defense forces to

00:20:32.099 --> 00:20:34.740
let them through. So Doc teamed up with his son

00:20:34.740 --> 00:20:37.720
David, the same one who walked away at 23, as

00:20:37.720 --> 00:20:40.440
well as Arthur Rochevan and the legendary Kelly

00:20:40.440 --> 00:20:42.960
Slater. Basically the Michael Jordan of surfing.

00:20:43.140 --> 00:20:45.880
Exactly. Having Kelly Slater involved brought

00:20:45.880 --> 00:20:48.599
massive global attention to the effort. They

00:20:48.599 --> 00:20:50.799
also worked with an organization called the One

00:20:50.799 --> 00:20:54.819
Voice Movement, which is a pro -Israeli -Palestinian

00:20:54.819 --> 00:20:57.500
peace organization. And was his pitch to the

00:20:57.500 --> 00:21:00.509
government? Why let surfboards in? Duck's core

00:21:00.509 --> 00:21:03.250
philosophy here was about using the shared experience

00:21:03.250 --> 00:21:05.910
of surfing to bridge cultural and political barriers.

00:21:06.269 --> 00:21:08.630
He argued that if people from opposite sides

00:21:08.630 --> 00:21:10.470
are out in the water catching waves together,

00:21:10.589 --> 00:21:12.930
they aren't fighting. He believed surfing could

00:21:12.930 --> 00:21:15.569
bridge those divides. And against all odds, he

00:21:15.569 --> 00:21:17.990
actually pulled it off. He did. They successfully

00:21:17.990 --> 00:21:20.269
crossed the border, delivered the boards, and

00:21:20.269 --> 00:21:22.710
even held a follow -up concert in Tel Aviv later

00:21:22.710 --> 00:21:25.519
that year. I just love the visual of this 86

00:21:25.519 --> 00:21:28.299
-year -old man standing on a beach in Gaza handing

00:21:28.299 --> 00:21:31.619
a surfboard to a local kid. It complicates his

00:21:31.619 --> 00:21:34.000
character so much. He wasn't just the tyrant

00:21:34.000 --> 00:21:36.200
of the camper van. He was also this visionary

00:21:36.200 --> 00:21:38.779
who believed in the power of the ocean. He truly

00:21:38.779 --> 00:21:40.859
believed the ocean didn't care about your politics

00:21:40.859 --> 00:21:43.119
or your religion. It was the one place where

00:21:43.119 --> 00:21:45.900
everyone was completely equal. It connects right

00:21:45.900 --> 00:21:48.559
back to his time in Israel in the 50s. So let's

00:21:48.559 --> 00:21:51.279
look at the end of the road. Doc's legacy and

00:21:51.279 --> 00:21:54.259
his final years. He lived a remarkably long time.

00:21:54.319 --> 00:21:57.299
He made it to 93. So the multigrain drill actually

00:21:57.299 --> 00:22:00.009
worked. It certainly seems to have done the trick.

00:22:00.190 --> 00:22:03.089
He passed away on November 10th, 2014, in Newport

00:22:03.089 --> 00:22:05.349
Beach. And frankly, it was only a hip surgery

00:22:05.349 --> 00:22:07.609
earlier that year that finally caused his decline.

00:22:07.950 --> 00:22:10.289
The sources note he was actively surfing well

00:22:10.289 --> 00:22:13.109
into his late 80s. That is just incredible longevity.

00:22:13.490 --> 00:22:15.509
He even authored a book called Surfing and Health,

00:22:15.650 --> 00:22:18.190
which came out in 1997 and was republished in

00:22:18.190 --> 00:22:21.450
2007. He received numerous accolades. He was

00:22:21.450 --> 00:22:23.329
inducted into the Southern California Jewish

00:22:23.329 --> 00:22:26.089
Sports Hall of Fame in 2000. He was referred

00:22:26.089 --> 00:22:28.319
to as a legend by Everyone in the community,

00:22:28.440 --> 00:22:30.619
including Kelly Slater. There was even Hollywood

00:22:30.619 --> 00:22:33.299
interest in his life. Yes. Variety reported in

00:22:33.299 --> 00:22:36.279
2010 that Sean Penn expressed serious interest

00:22:36.279 --> 00:22:38.859
in producing and starring in a movie about Doc.

00:22:39.039 --> 00:22:41.259
Which would be absolutely perfect casting. It

00:22:41.259 --> 00:22:43.779
really would be. But now that he is gone, we

00:22:43.779 --> 00:22:46.039
are left to make sense of the experiment he ran.

00:22:46.240 --> 00:22:48.630
So let's synthesize all of this. We have a man

00:22:48.630 --> 00:22:51.710
who was essentially a walking bundle of contradictions,

00:22:51.769 --> 00:22:54.529
a highly trained doctor who hated the medical

00:22:54.529 --> 00:22:57.569
establishment, a father who clearly loved his

00:22:57.569 --> 00:23:00.349
kids but denied them basic education and privacy.

00:23:00.859 --> 00:23:03.839
a Jewish man who championed Palestinian surfers.

00:23:03.960 --> 00:23:06.619
He forces us to look at our own priorities. We

00:23:06.619 --> 00:23:09.000
live in a modern society that values security

00:23:09.000 --> 00:23:11.819
above almost everything else. We insure everything,

00:23:12.000 --> 00:23:14.259
we plan everything out, we get educated for jobs

00:23:14.259 --> 00:23:16.359
we might not even like just to have stability.

00:23:17.079 --> 00:23:20.160
Doc Paskowitz valued experience above all else.

00:23:20.359 --> 00:23:22.619
But the cost of prioritizing that pure experience

00:23:22.619 --> 00:23:24.960
was creating a lot of chaos for the people around

00:23:24.960 --> 00:23:28.480
him. Chaos, yes, but also an incredible vitality.

00:23:28.539 --> 00:23:30.900
He lived every single day on his own terms. He

00:23:30.900 --> 00:23:33.019
certainly didn't sleepwalk through life. Here's

00:23:33.019 --> 00:23:35.160
the big takeaway for you listening to this. We

00:23:35.160 --> 00:23:37.720
all have scripts we are following. Doc burned

00:23:37.720 --> 00:23:40.460
his script. But when you burn the script, you

00:23:40.460 --> 00:23:42.279
have to write a new one every single morning.

00:23:42.380 --> 00:23:45.700
And that is exhausting. And sometimes it inevitably

00:23:45.700 --> 00:23:48.150
hurts the people closest to you. That is the

00:23:48.150 --> 00:23:51.210
ultimate tradeoff. You can have total unbridled

00:23:51.210 --> 00:23:53.349
freedom or you can have stability and comfort.

00:23:53.549 --> 00:23:56.230
You very rarely get to have both. I want to leave

00:23:56.230 --> 00:23:59.130
you with one final thought to mull over. Doc

00:23:59.130 --> 00:24:01.809
firmly believed that traditional education was

00:24:01.809 --> 00:24:04.819
dangerous because it homogenized the mind. That

00:24:04.819 --> 00:24:07.079
it just made us all think exactly the same way.

00:24:07.299 --> 00:24:10.460
Now look at our world today. In an age of constant

00:24:10.460 --> 00:24:13.240
information overload, where we are all doom -scrolling

00:24:13.240 --> 00:24:15.640
the exact same social feeds, reading the same

00:24:15.640 --> 00:24:17.960
news algorithms, watching the same viral shows.

00:24:18.559 --> 00:24:21.539
Was he actually right? Is there a real danger

00:24:21.539 --> 00:24:24.420
in homogenizing our minds? Or did he just replace

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society's form of control with his own? Did he

00:24:27.140 --> 00:24:29.259
free his children from the machine only to imprison

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them inside his own ego in that van? That is

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the question you have to answer for yourself.

00:24:33.799 --> 00:24:35.539
And I really don't think there was an easy answer.

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But I bet the view from the window of that van

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was pretty spectacular. Just don't ask about

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what was for breakfast. Thanks for joining us

00:24:44.839 --> 00:24:48.299
on this deep dive. Go catch a wave or maybe just

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take a different unplanned route to work today.

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See what happens when you break the script. Goodbye.

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See ya.
