WEBVTT

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Welcome back to the Deep Dive. Today, we are

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standing at the threshold of something. Well,

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something massive. And I don't just mean physical

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size, though we are talking about huge buildings.

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I mean massive in terms of memory. We're looking

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at an institution that's basically holding the

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hard drive of human civilization for an entire

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region. It's a staggering archive. We're talking

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about the National Museum of Iran. And to give

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you a sense of the scale right off the bat. This

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place isn't just a gallery with a few, you know,

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pretty vases. No. It's a custodian of over three

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million artifacts. Three million. That number

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is just... It's hard to wrap your head around.

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It's the oldest archaeological museum in West

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Asia. And honestly, it's a heavyweight champion

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when it comes to historical preservation. But

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here's the thing that really got me when we were

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digging into the research for this. It's not

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just one building. It's actually two distinct

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complexes in Tehran that function as this, well,

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this massive time capsule. Precisely. You have

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the Museum of Ancient Iran and then the Museum

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of the Islamic Era. And between the two of them,

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they're trying to do something almost impossible.

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Which is? Tell the comprehensive story of us.

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And by us, I mean humanity in that region, stretching

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all the way from Neanderthals making stone tools

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right up to the intricate mathematical artistry

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of the Sothoic kings. That is a huge scope. Hundreds

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of thousands of years. But before we get lost

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in that timeline, can we just pause on the, wait,

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what? factor of this place? The surprises. Yeah,

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the surprises. Because there are some things

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in this collection that just sound made up. Like

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the fact that they have what is technically considered

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the world's first animation. On a piece of pottery.

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On pottery from 5 ,000 years ago. It's a remarkable

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artifact from Sharia Sukteh. And we will definitely

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unpack how that works later. It challenges a

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lot of our assumptions about what ancient art

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was capable of. And the other thing that threw

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me, and maybe this is just my own ignorance showing,

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is that the most iconic building of this Iranian

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national treasure. a building that looks like

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it grew out of the ancient history of Persia

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itself, was actually designed by a Frenchman.

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That's true. André Godard. And that origin story

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is actually the perfect place to start because

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the museum's existence wasn't exactly a straight

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line. It didn't just appear overnight. No. It

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had a bit of a rocky start. Right. So let's rewind.

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Early 20th century. Who wakes up and decides

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we need a museum? Because usually people are

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worried about, you know, food and shelter. Well,

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the intellectual class was very concerned with

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heritage. The first serious proposal came in

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1906. There was a man, Morteza Golikhan Hedayat.

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He had this vision, but as is often the case

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with ambitious projects, it didn't quite get

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off the ground immediately. So it was just a

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great idea on paper. Exactly. It wasn't until

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1916 that something actually opened, but it was

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incredibly modest. They called it the Museum

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of Education. And if you're picturing a grand

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hall, stop. Picture a closet. Picture a supply

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closet. It was basically one room in the Ministry

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of Education building. They had about 270 items,

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some pottery, old weapons, seals. A far cry from

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3 million items. This was a start. But the real

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turning point, the moment it starts to become

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the institution we know today, happens in the

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late 1920s. And this connects to that French

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influence you mentioned. Right, because at this

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time... Archaeology in the region was heavily

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dominated by Europeans. It was sort of the era

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of the great game applied to history. It was.

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The French specifically had a stronghold. For

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a long time, French archaeologists had an unconditional

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privilege to excavate in Iran. But in 1927, the

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Iranian government pushed back. That privilege

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was canceled. Okay. But the government still

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wanted a proper national museum and library.

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And as a sort of diplomatic tradeoff, the privilege

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of designing it was given to France. So it was

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a deal. You can't dig everywhere anymore, but

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you can build the house where we keep the history.

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In a way, yes. So in 1929, a French architect

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and archaeologist named André Godard comes to

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Iran. He's the key figure. And the building he

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designed, the Museum of Ancient Iran, is fascinating

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because it's this fusion of cultures. I was looking

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at photos of it. It's this massive, dark brick

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structure. It looks incredibly imposing. It is.

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Construction was between 1935 and 1937. Godard,

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along with Maxime Serru, designed it. But here's

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the fascinating detail. Even though they were

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French, they didn't build a French -style building.

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They didn't drop a neoclassical bank from Paris

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into Tehran. Exactly. They looked at Iran's own

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history for inspiration. That huge dark archway

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in the front, it looks ancient. That's the key

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feature. It was intentionally influenced by the

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Sassanid style. Specifically, the famous Takh

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Khazra at Sessafan. That massive vaulted arch

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that you want. So he's using the country's own

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architectural language to house its history.

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Which is a pretty respectful move for a foreign

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architect in the 1930s. It frames the entry into

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history through the lens of that history itself.

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Now, if you look at the second complex, the Museum

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of the Islamic Era, it's a totally different

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vibe. Completely. Yeah, that one looks much more

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modern. White stone sitting on the grass. White

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travertine. But even there, the inspiration is

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historical. It's built on an octagonal cruciform

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plan inspired by the Sassanid Palace at Bishapur.

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So both buildings are echoing the past, just

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in different ways. One dark and heavy, the other

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white and geometric. But the Islamic era museum

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had a much more turbulent birth. It did. It was

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being remodeled right when the Iranian revolution

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swept the country in the late 70s. So its full

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potential was, well, it was delayed. Okay, so

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we have the stage set. Two buildings. Let's walk

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inside. Let's do this walk through deep time.

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Because you mentioned Neanderthals earlier, and

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I feel like people don't usually associate museums

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in Tehran with Neanderthals. And that's a huge

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oversight. The Ancient Iran Museum has a collection

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that goes back to the lower Paleolithic period.

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We're talking about the very dawn of human activity

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in the region. So what are we actually looking

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at? Are these just rocks? To the untrained eye?

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Maybe. But these are Mysterion -sewn tools from

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places like Kashafrud and Darband. These were

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made by Neanderthals. This is before Homo sapiens

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were the only game in town. That's incredible,

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just the idea of standing there looking at a

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tool that a different species of human held in

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their hand. It really grounds you, and it continues

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through the upper Paleolithic. There are tools

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from Jafta dating back 30 ,000, maybe 35 ,000

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years. But as we move forward in time, the artifacts

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get more complex. we start seeing art. And that

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brings us to your favorite item. The goat. The

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movie Goat? The pottery from Char et Soupde.

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The Burnt City. Okay, lay it out for us. How

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is a cup in animation? Because usually pottery

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just sits there. So imagine an earthen goblet.

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Around the side of it, the artist has painted

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five panels. Each panel shows a goat in a slightly

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different position. Right. And the first he's

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standing, and the next he's rearing up. Then

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he's midair. Then he's grabbing a leaf from a

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tree. And if you spin it? If you spin the goblet,

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The persistence of vision kicks in. The images

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blur together and you see the goat jump up and

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snatch the leaf. It is, for all intents and purposes,

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the earliest known example of animation. That

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is just mind -blowing. Someone 5 ,000 years ago

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was sitting there thinking, I bet I can make

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this goat move. It's like they were inventing

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cinema before they'd even perfected the wheel.

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It speaks to a very human desire to capture life

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in motion. It wasn't enough to just draw the

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goat. They wanted to capture the action of the

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goat. I love that. Prehistoric cinema. Okay,

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moving through the gallery, we hit the heavy

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hitters. We have to talk about the salt men.

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The salt men are fascinating. Yeah. A bit macabre.

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These are naturally mummified remains preserved

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in salt mines. The level of preservation is eerie.

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You can see hair, clothing, leather, boots. And

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these weren't kings wrapped in linen. No, these

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were miners. Ordinary workers who died in a collapse.

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The soul just dried them out. It gives you this

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visceral connection to the past. You aren't looking

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at a statue of a god. You're looking at a guy

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who went to work 2 ,000 years ago and never came

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home. That hits hard. And speaking of statues,

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we do have the big ones. You have Darius the

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Great. Yes, the statue of Darius. The massive

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columns from Persepolis. Symbols of imperial

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power. But there's another statue that I find

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even more poignant. The statue of Penelope. Penelope

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as in? From the Odyssey, Odysseus' wife. The

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very same. A marble statue of Penelope grieving

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for her lost husband found in the ruins of Persepolis.

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What was a Greek mythological statue doing in

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the capital of the Persian Empire? That's the

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big question. It was likely a diplomatic gift

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or maybe war booty. Yeah. But here's the beautiful

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part. It's one of only four such statues in the

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world. The others are in the Vatican and Rome.

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Wow. And a few years ago, back in 2016, there

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was this reunion exhibition. They brought the

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sisters together. They did. First in Milan, and

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then the Italian statues traveled to Tehran.

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It was this beautiful moment where these marble

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sisters, separated by history, were reunited

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in the very place where one of them had been

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buried for centuries. That's surprisingly emotional

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for a story about rocks. It shows that art has

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a life of its own. It does. And speaking of shiny

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things, before we leave the ancient world, we

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have to mention the gold, the Iron Age stuff.

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The Marlet collection. The gold cups, the animal

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statues. There's a ring of power from the Elamite

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period. It shows the incredible richness of the

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metalwork. It pushes back against any idea that

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this is a dark age. The craftsmanship is world

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class. Okay, so that's the ancient building.

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We've done Neanderthals, the movie goat, the

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salt men, the gold. Now we walk across the grass

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to the white building, the Museum of the Islamic

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Era. And here, the atmosphere changes completely.

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You have about 1 ,500 works on display. The materials

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shift. You start seeing delicate astrolabes,

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adobe calligraphy, medieval textiles. It feels

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more personal, maybe? It is closer to our time.

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And you see the shift in focus towards the written

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word, towards geometry. But the personalities

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are still there. For example, the personal items

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of Abbas the Great. This is the Shah who basically

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rebuilt Isfahan. Yes. They have his sword, his

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shield, his dress. Seeing the clothing of a historical

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figure like that, it removes the abstraction.

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He was a man who wore this dress, held this shield.

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It makes the history tactile. And there's a piece

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you flagged as important, the Paradise Gate.

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Ah, yes. It's a mihrab, a prayer nish, from the

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Ilkhanate Empire. And along with these intricate

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wooden windows from 1126 A .D., it shows how

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Iranian identity evolved. How so? It wasn't that

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the ancient Persian identity disappeared when

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Islam arrived. It blended. You see the artistic

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continuity, the geometric mastery, the love of

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detail applied to religious architecture. It's

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a story of evolution, not replacement. So I want

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to pivot a bit because a museum isn't just a

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warehouse for old stuff. It's a player on the

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world stage. And this museum seems incredibly

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active in what we might call cultural diplomacy.

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That's a very good term for it. Art can travel

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across borders that people sometimes can't. Take

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us back to 2010, the Cyrus Cylinder. This was

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a massive moment, an exchange with the British

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Museum. The Cyrus Cylinder is often called the

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first charter of human rights. It's a huge point

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of pride for Iranian history, but it lives in

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London. So they brought it home. For four months.

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And the reaction was overwhelming. Half a million

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people visited it at Tehran. That's rock concert

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attendance. It shows the hunger people have to

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connect with that heritage. And then they did

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it again with the Louvre in 2018. Yes. For the

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museum's 80th anniversary, 50 masterpieces from

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the Louvre came to Tehran, drew over 250 ,000

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visitors. It's these moments of connection, Paris

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to Tehran, London to Tehran, that bridge gaps.

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But it's not always friendly loans. Sometimes

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it's like a crime thriller. We have to talk about

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the case of the smuggled relief. This is a wild

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story. So there was this sassanid release, a

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stone carving dating back to somewhere between

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224 and 651 A .D. Worth a bit of money. Estimated

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to be worth over 30 million pounds. It was illegally

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smuggled out of Iran in the 80s, probably hacked

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out of a rock face during the Iran -Rock War.

00:12:11.559 --> 00:12:14.120
It ends up in the UAE, sits there for years.

00:12:14.179 --> 00:12:17.039
And then in 2016, someone gets greedy and tries

00:12:17.039 --> 00:12:18.879
to bring it into the UK to sell it. And they

00:12:18.879 --> 00:12:21.899
got caught. Seized at Stansted Airport. Border

00:12:21.899 --> 00:12:24.139
force officers saw the crate and thought, this

00:12:24.139 --> 00:12:26.440
looks suspicious. I love that. Just sitting in

00:12:26.440 --> 00:12:29.159
an airport hangar, a 30 million pound treasure

00:12:29.159 --> 00:12:32.100
wrapped in bubble wrap. Exactly. It took years

00:12:32.100 --> 00:12:35.759
of legal wrangling. But finally, in June 2023,

00:12:36.179 --> 00:12:38.740
it was returned to Iran. It's now permanently

00:12:38.740 --> 00:12:41.179
displayed at the museum. A real victory. It sends

00:12:41.179 --> 00:12:43.539
a message, too. You can steal it, but you can't

00:12:43.539 --> 00:12:45.860
keep it. Right. And speaking of returns, we have

00:12:45.860 --> 00:12:48.240
to mention the Achaemenid tablets. From the University

00:12:48.240 --> 00:12:50.559
of Chicago, right? Yes, in 2024. These have been

00:12:50.559 --> 00:12:54.159
on loan since the 1930s. Thousands of clay tablets.

00:12:54.360 --> 00:12:56.980
Now, be honest. Clay tablets sound kind of boring

00:12:56.980 --> 00:13:00.500
compared to gold cups. Visually, maybe. They're

00:13:00.500 --> 00:13:02.720
small brown lumps of clay with little scratches.

00:13:03.039 --> 00:13:05.840
But the content, the content is thrilling. If

00:13:05.840 --> 00:13:07.519
you want to know what life was actually like.

00:13:07.559 --> 00:13:10.179
Why? That's on them. They aren't grand proclamations

00:13:10.179 --> 00:13:13.500
of kings. They're receipts. Receipts. Administrative

00:13:13.500 --> 00:13:16.039
records. They detail wages, road management,

00:13:16.200 --> 00:13:18.679
how much barley a worker got paid, travel permits.

00:13:18.940 --> 00:13:21.659
So it's the Excel spreadsheets of the Achaemenid

00:13:21.659 --> 00:13:24.179
Empire. Exactly. And that's why they're so valuable.

00:13:24.559 --> 00:13:26.580
They tell us about the common people, the economy,

00:13:26.799 --> 00:13:29.779
the daily grind of life under Darius the Great.

00:13:30.200 --> 00:13:32.580
You don't get that from a statue of a king. You

00:13:32.580 --> 00:13:34.159
get that from the tax records. That's a great

00:13:34.159 --> 00:13:36.759
point. The boring stuff makes the history real.

00:13:36.879 --> 00:13:40.100
It turns the empire from a myth into a functioning

00:13:40.100 --> 00:13:43.779
society. And recently, the museum has been taking

00:13:43.779 --> 00:13:46.220
that history on the road on a scale we haven't

00:13:46.220 --> 00:13:48.519
seen before. The China connection. The glory

00:13:48.519 --> 00:13:51.340
of ancient Persia exhibition. This toured China

00:13:51.340 --> 00:13:55.379
in 2024 and early 2025. The numbers were just

00:13:55.379 --> 00:13:58.019
staggering. I saw this stat and I had to double

00:13:58.019 --> 00:14:01.580
check it. 50 million visitors. Over 50 million.

00:14:01.659 --> 00:14:04.139
It was the biggest exhibition abroad in the museum's

00:14:04.139 --> 00:14:06.440
history. That's the population of a medium -sized

00:14:06.440 --> 00:14:08.539
country walking through an exhibit of Persian

00:14:08.539 --> 00:14:11.039
history. It shows the massive global interest.

00:14:11.620 --> 00:14:14.039
It suggests the museum isn't just sitting in

00:14:14.039 --> 00:14:16.379
Tehran waiting for visitors. It's aggressively

00:14:16.379 --> 00:14:19.940
exporting its culture, using soft power in a

00:14:19.940 --> 00:14:22.639
very effective way. So when we look at the National

00:14:22.639 --> 00:14:26.019
Museum of Iran today in 2026, it seems like it's

00:14:26.019 --> 00:14:28.919
operating on two levels. It is. On one hand,

00:14:28.940 --> 00:14:32.059
it's the vault, the fortress in Tehran guarding

00:14:32.059 --> 00:14:34.960
the musterian tools and the gold of Marlik. It's

00:14:34.960 --> 00:14:37.080
the physical anchor of the nation's memory. And

00:14:37.080 --> 00:14:39.500
on the other hand, it's a diplomat. It's a traveler.

00:14:39.919 --> 00:14:42.139
It's reclaiming stolen art from British airports

00:14:42.139 --> 00:14:44.200
and breaking attendance records in Shanghai.

00:14:44.899 --> 00:14:47.419
It's remarkably dynamic for an institution that

00:14:47.419 --> 00:14:49.700
deals with things that have been dead for thousands

00:14:49.700 --> 00:14:52.100
of years. It really is. It's a reminder that

00:14:52.100 --> 00:14:55.100
history isn't static. It moves. It gets smuggled.

00:14:55.100 --> 00:14:57.639
It gets returned. It goes on tour. And that raises

00:14:57.639 --> 00:15:00.100
an interesting question for us to chew on. What's

00:15:00.100 --> 00:15:03.259
that? Well, the museum holds over 3 million artifacts,

00:15:03.620 --> 00:15:06.620
but only a fraction around 300 ,000 are typically

00:15:06.620 --> 00:15:09.789
on display in Tehran. Yet one exhibition in China

00:15:09.789 --> 00:15:13.029
reached 50 million people. So, in the 21st century,

00:15:13.210 --> 00:15:15.529
where does the true power of a national museum

00:15:15.529 --> 00:15:19.389
lie? Is it inside the walls of that beautiful

00:15:19.389 --> 00:15:23.210
brick building André Godard designed? Or is its

00:15:23.210 --> 00:15:25.570
true power in its ability to leave those walls

00:15:25.570 --> 00:15:27.580
and travel the world? That's a big question.

00:15:27.679 --> 00:15:30.360
Is the museum the building or is the museum the

00:15:30.360 --> 00:15:32.320
story it tells, wherever it tells it? I think

00:15:32.320 --> 00:15:34.139
the answer is changing right in front of us.

00:15:34.179 --> 00:15:35.940
Something to think about next time you walk into

00:15:35.940 --> 00:15:38.620
a gallery or see a video of a jumping goat on

00:15:38.620 --> 00:15:41.940
your feed. Indeed. That's all for this deep dive

00:15:41.940 --> 00:15:44.899
into the time capsule of Tehran. Thanks for listening

00:15:44.899 --> 00:15:46.379
and we'll catch you on the next one.
