WEBVTT

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Welcome back to the Deep Dive. I want to start

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today by asking you to do something a little

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bit old school. I want you to picture a map of

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the world. Okay. You know the one, the standard

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projection you probably had on the wall of your

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classroom growing up? The Mercator projection,

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all stretched out at the pole. That's the one.

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Yeah. Now you scan the Pacific Ocean, that massive

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overwhelming blue void between the Americas and

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Australia. If you look really, really closely,

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you might see a few specks. Maybe you see Hawaii

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because it's bolded. Maybe Fiji. But if you look

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to the subject of today's deep dive, you might

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just miss it entirely. Which is ironic, considering

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just how much space they actually take up. Exactly.

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We're looking at the Cook Islands. Yeah. And

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on paper, this place is a paradox. Yeah. I was

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looking at the data you pulled, and the math,

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it barely makes sense. We're talking about a

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country with a landmass of roughly 236 square

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kilometers. Right. To put that in perspective

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for you, that's smaller than the city of Milwaukee.

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It's smaller than the Cayman Islands. It's tiny.

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It is. It's essentially 15 small islands scattered

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across the water. If you stood on the highest

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point on the main island and looked out, you'd

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see a lot of ocean and very, very little else.

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But, and this is the hook that got me, if you

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draw a line around their territorial waters,

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their exclusive economic zone, or EEZ, It is

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nearly 2 million square kilometers. That's the

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paradox of scale right there. You have a landmass

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the size of a mid -sized city, but an ocean footprint

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roughly the size of Western Europe. Western Europe,

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that's staggering. It is. Or, to use a different

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comparison that might be easier to visualize,

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it's an area of ocean comparable to the entire

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landmass of Mexico. So practically speaking,

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this is a country that is 99 .9 % water. And

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0 .1 % land. That's the reality of the Cook Islands.

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You're not governing land with a bit of coast.

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You're governing an ocean that happens to have

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a few islands in it. That ratio defines everything

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we're going to talk about today, doesn't it?

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Completely. It's not just a geography factoid.

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It shapes their politics, their economy, their

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entire identity. It's the canvas upon which their

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national story is painted. Absolutely. The mission

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for this deep dive is to unpack how a micronation

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because that's what it is, geographically manages

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to punch so far above its weight class. It really

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does. We're looking at a place that has to maintain

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a distinct cultural identity while navigating

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a very complex, almost confusing political marriage

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with New Zealand. And it's not just about politics.

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The surprising facts list in these articles was

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wild. I mean, we're going to talk about a fish

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that costs as much as a new car. A very nice

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new car at that. We're going to talk about a

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legal framework that was explicitly designed

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to effectively tell the U .S. Department of Justice

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to take a hike. And we're going to get into the

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really thorny issue of seabed mining, which pits

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their identity as these pristine ocean guardians

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against the potential for massive, massive wealth.

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It's a lot to cover. But let's start where we

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always should. The physical reality. Because

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the Cook Islands implies a single group. But

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looking at the breakdown, it feels like we're

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dealing with two completely different worlds.

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We really are. Geographically and geologically,

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the country is split into two distinct chains,

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the northern group and the southern group. And

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they couldn't be more different. Not at all.

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It's almost like two different countries that

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just happen to share a flag and a government.

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Okay, so let's start with the north. When I read

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the descriptions of the northern group islands

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like Penryn and Manihiki, it felt like reading

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about a different planet. or at least the classic

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desert island cartoon. You know, the one with

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the single palm tree. That's a fair comparison.

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The northern group consists of these incredibly

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old coral atolls. And to understand them, you

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have to understand the geology of the Pacific.

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These used to be high volcanic islands millions

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and millions of years ago. Like Hawaii. Exactly

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like Hawaii is now. But over eons, the heavy

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volcanic rocks sank back into the Earth's crust.

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a process called subsidence. As the land sank,

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the coral reefs that were growing around the

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edges of the island just kept growing upwards

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to stay near the sunlight. So the volcano disappears

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underwater and you're left with just the ring

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of coral that was growing around it. Precisely.

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You're left with a ring of coral reef and sand,

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usually enclosing a lagoon where the mountain

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used to be. We are talking about land that is

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mere meters above sea level. Wow. If a big wave

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from a cyclone comes, it washes right over. There's

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no high ground to run to. And because they are

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these sunken volcanoes, there's not much soil,

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right? You can't exactly run a farm there. It's

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just sand and coral rubble. No, not at all. It's

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a subsistence lifestyle. Coconut palms, you have

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breadfruit, you have taro that you grow in excavated

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pits, you have pigs, and you have fish from the

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lagoon and the ocean. That's about it. So it's

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rugged. It is a rugged frontier existence. Freshwater

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is a constant struggle. You rely heavily on rainwater

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catchment systems. If there's a drought, you

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are in serious trouble. And they are isolated.

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I mean, truly isolated. Incredibly so. These

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islands are hundreds and hundreds of kilometers

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apart from each other, let alone from the capital

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in the south. We aren't talking about a quick

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ferry ride. It can take days, sometimes a week,

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to get there by boat. A week on the open ocean,

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just to get to another part of your own country.

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And flights are infrequent and very expensive.

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It's a level of isolation that is hard for most

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of us living in interconnected cities to really

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grasp. Okay, so contrast that with the southern

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group. This is where Rarotonga is. The main island,

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the capital. Right. And the southern group is

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a whole different ballgame. Geologically, it's

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much younger. These are high islands. They are

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volcanic, mountainous, jagged. They look more

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like what you'd see in a movie. Exactly. If you

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look at Rarotonga, it looks like a mini Tahiti

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or a mini Kauai. You have these sharp, dramatic

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peaks covered in dense green jungle. Because

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they haven't sunk yet. They're still in their

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volcanic prime, so to speak. Exactly. And because

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volcanic soil is incredibly fertile, they are

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lush, they are green, they can support commercial

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agriculture, citrus, bananas, all sorts of things.

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They can support a much higher population density.

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Which explains the population split you mentioned.

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It does. It's the fundamental reason. About 90

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% of the entire population of the Cook Islands

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lives in the southern group, and the vast majority

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of those are on Rarotonga alone. So you have

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this dynamic where... capital, the international

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airport, the hospitals, the government, everything

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is concentrated in the south. And the north is

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just out there. It's the outer islands. And in

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the Cook Islands context, outer really means

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outer. It's not like taking a train to the suburbs.

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Right. It creates a fascinating internal dynamic

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where the lived experience of a Cook Islander

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in Manihiki who might be a pro farmer is vastly

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different from one in Rarotonga who works in

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the tourism ministry. But that isolation, that

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deep, relatively untouched water. It has an upside,

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doesn't it? The source material mentions that

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these waters are hiding some biological treasures.

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Yeah. And I have to talk about this fish. The

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peppermint angelfish. Ugh. Centropigeon boilie.

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Yes. A legend in the marine biology and aquarium

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world. The notes say it costs $30 ,000. $30 ,000

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U .S. dollars for a single fish. I mean, I've

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bought cars for... Less than a tenth of that.

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In the high -end aquarium trade, yes, it is the

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Holy Grail. If you are a very wealthy collector

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in Tokyo or New York or Dubai, this is the centerpiece.

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This is the fish you show off. Why? What makes

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it so special? Is it made of gold? Is it the

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last one on Earth? No, and that's the fascinating

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part. It's not endangered in the sense that there

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are only three left. In its specific deep water

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habitat around the Cook Islands, it's actually

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reasonably common. The problem isn't finding

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it. The problem is getting it. It lives in the

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twilight zone, right? That's what they call it.

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Exactly. We're talking about the mesophotic zone,

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deep coral reefs, usually between 50 to 120 meters

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deep. Okay, so for non -divers, 120 meters, that's

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not just deep. That's extremely deep. It is crushing

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depth. To put it in perspective, a standard recreational

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scuba diving certification usually limits you

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to 30 or 40 meters. To go to 100 meters requires

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highly specialized equipment called rebreathers,

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which recycle your air. You're breathing mixed

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gases, usually trimix, which adds helium to the

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breathing gas to counteract the narcotic effects

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of nitrogen at that pressure. So it's a technical

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dangerous dive. It's closer to being an astronaut

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than a swimmer. The planning, the risk. The training,

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it's immense. But here's the kicker. Even if

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you can get down there and you manage to catch

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one in a little net, you can't just bring it

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up. No. That's the biology constraint. And it's

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the same for any deepwater fish. They have swim

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bladders. These are gas -filled organs that help

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them maintain buoyancy. If you bring a fish up

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from 100 meters to the surface quickly, the surrounding

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water pressure drops dramatically and the gas

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in that swim bladder expands. Like opening a

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shaken soda can. Perfect analogy. It's fatal.

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It ruptures their internal organs. It's the same

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principle as the bends or decompression sickness

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in human divers. You have to decompress the fish.

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You do. It is an incredibly slow, painstaking

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process. You have to bring them up in stages,

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holding them at certain depths for hours, sometimes

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over days, to let the gas in their system slowly

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off gas and equalize. Or you use special hyperbaric

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chambers designed for fish. Wow. That is what

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you are paying for. You aren't paying for the

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fish. You're paying for the technical mastery,

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the specialized equipment, and the immense risk

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required to retrieve it alive and healthy. Strangely

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striking, too, I take it. It's not just a brown

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fish. Oh, it's beautiful. It's stunning. It's

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a bright, burning orange -red with these stark,

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clean, vertical white stripes. It looks almost

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painted, like a piece of pop art. In a tank,

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under the right lighting, it glows. So we have

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this amazing biodiversity win with the angelfish.

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But the sources also point to a major biodiversity

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tragedy. And it involves a villain we see all

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over the Pacific history books, the rat. The

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scourge of islands everywhere. A truly devastating

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invasive species. In the Cook Islands, you have

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two types of invaders. You have the Kiorotoka,

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the Polynesian rat, which arrived with the original

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Polynesian settlers over a thousand years ago.

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So that one's been there a while. A long while.

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But then you have the real killer, the ship rat,

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the Norway rat, which arrived with the Europeans

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on their sailing vessels in the 18th and 19th

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centuries. They're bigger, more aggressive, and

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more rapacious. And for birds that evolved on

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islands without any ground predators, this is

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the apocalypse. It is. You have to understand,

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these birds evolved in a paradise. There were

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no snakes, no stoats, no pets, no mammals to

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eat them. Many of them nest on the ground or

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in low branches. They didn't evolve fear because

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they didn't need it. They wouldn't know to fly

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away. And then suddenly there's a rat, a creature

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they have no instinct for. Exactly. The rats

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swarm the nests. They eat the eggs. They eat

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the chicks. For many species, the breeding success

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rate dropped to zero. The impact was catastrophic.

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The forests went silent. There was a specific

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story in the notes about lorikeet, the cool's

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lorikeet. The Rheumatara lorikeet, or the coor

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in the local language. It's a small, vibrant

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bird with a bright red breast and green wings.

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Just a beautiful little thing. And it was native

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to the Cooks. Historically, it was found on at

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least five of the southern islands. But it wasn't

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just the rats that got them. Humans. Humans played

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a role too. They were prized for those red feathers.

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In Polynesian culture, red is a high status color.

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It's the color of royalty, of chiefs. It represents

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mana spiritual power, authority, divinity. So

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the feathers were a status symbol. A huge one.

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The feathers were used in chiefly girdles in

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ceremonial headdresses. To make one single chiefly

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girdle could require the feathers of hundreds

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of birds. That's not sustainable. Not at all.

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So between the human exploitation for fashion

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and status and the relentless rat predation,

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the cool's lorikeet went extinct in the Cook

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Islands. Gone. Wiped out. Completely. Completely

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wiped out by the early 20th century. But the

00:12:05.570 --> 00:12:07.629
story doesn't end there, which is the hopeful

00:12:07.629 --> 00:12:09.950
part. This is where we get a bit of a Jurassic

00:12:09.950 --> 00:12:12.679
Park moment. the dinosaurs eating people. A much

00:12:12.679 --> 00:12:15.279
more successful reintroduction story, yes. A

00:12:15.279 --> 00:12:18.019
small remnant population had survived on the

00:12:18.019 --> 00:12:20.799
single rat -free island of Rimitara in French

00:12:20.799 --> 00:12:24.460
Polynesia. In 2007, conservationists from several

00:12:24.460 --> 00:12:27.879
organizations launched this desperate rescue

00:12:27.879 --> 00:12:30.360
mission. An ark, basically. A modern -day ark.

00:12:30.500 --> 00:12:33.240
They took 27 of these birds from Rimitara and

00:12:33.240 --> 00:12:35.519
flew them to the island of Attu in the Cooks.

00:12:35.960 --> 00:12:39.399
27 birds to restart an entire species in a new

00:12:39.399 --> 00:12:42.580
country. That is a genetic bottleneck if I've

00:12:42.580 --> 00:12:44.740
ever heard one. The margin for error is zero.

00:12:44.919 --> 00:12:48.139
It is incredibly risky. One bad storm, one disease

00:12:48.139 --> 00:12:51.120
outbreak, and it's over. But Attu was chosen

00:12:51.120 --> 00:12:53.480
very carefully. They had done extensive back

00:12:53.480 --> 00:12:55.600
-breaking work on rat control to create safe

00:12:55.600 --> 00:12:58.139
zones. And crucially, the community on Attu was

00:12:58.139 --> 00:13:00.399
on board. That was the key. They wanted the bird

00:13:00.399 --> 00:13:03.549
back. The local chiefs placed a rahui, a traditional

00:13:03.549 --> 00:13:05.870
ban, on harming the birds. The community saw

00:13:05.870 --> 00:13:07.970
it as reclaiming a piece of their lost heritage,

00:13:08.210 --> 00:13:10.789
their taonga. Did it work? It was a resounding

00:13:10.789 --> 00:13:13.850
success. The population is now established. They

00:13:13.850 --> 00:13:15.970
are breeding. The birds are thriving. It's one

00:13:15.970 --> 00:13:18.250
of the great conservation comeback stories of

00:13:18.250 --> 00:13:21.129
the Pacific. It proves that even when we break

00:13:21.129 --> 00:13:24.029
an ecosystem, sometimes with enough effort, science,

00:13:24.149 --> 00:13:28.309
and community buy -in, we can fix it. That mindset

00:13:28.309 --> 00:13:31.009
fixing and protecting the ecosystem seems to

00:13:31.009 --> 00:13:34.590
be formalized now on a much grander scale. We

00:13:34.590 --> 00:13:36.850
have to talk about Maura Moana. The sacred ocean.

00:13:36.990 --> 00:13:40.450
This was established in 2017. And the scale of

00:13:40.450 --> 00:13:42.289
this thing goes right back to our paradox of

00:13:42.289 --> 00:13:45.500
scale in the intro. It's mind boggling. It does.

00:13:45.659 --> 00:13:47.759
It's the ultimate expression of that paradox.

00:13:47.960 --> 00:13:50.240
The government passed legislation designating

00:13:50.240 --> 00:13:53.740
the entire exclusive economic zone, all 1 .9

00:13:53.740 --> 00:13:56.240
million square kilometers as a marine park. Wait,

00:13:56.259 --> 00:13:58.039
the whole thing, not just a designated sanctuary

00:13:58.039 --> 00:14:00.019
in one corner. The whole thing. Now, that doesn't

00:14:00.019 --> 00:14:01.860
mean you can't fish anywhere. It's a mixed use

00:14:01.860 --> 00:14:04.519
park. It has strictly zoned areas for different

00:14:04.519 --> 00:14:06.759
activities. There are exclusion zones around

00:14:06.759 --> 00:14:08.940
each island where commercial fishing and mining

00:14:08.940 --> 00:14:11.259
are banned, creating protective bubbles. But

00:14:11.259 --> 00:14:14.629
the entire zone operates. under a single framework

00:14:14.629 --> 00:14:17.590
of conservation first. It is the largest single

00:14:17.590 --> 00:14:20.409
protected area on the planet designated by one

00:14:20.409 --> 00:14:23.210
country. That is a massive statement for a country

00:14:23.210 --> 00:14:26.690
of 15 ,000 people to make. It's saying, we aren't

00:14:26.690 --> 00:14:29.289
just islands in the sea. We are a sea nation.

00:14:30.159 --> 00:14:32.480
Exactly. It completely shifts the psychology.

00:14:32.779 --> 00:14:35.120
The ocean isn't just the empty space between

00:14:35.120 --> 00:14:38.480
the islands. The ocean is the country. It reinforces

00:14:38.480 --> 00:14:41.039
their role as custodians of what they call the

00:14:41.039 --> 00:14:43.340
Blue Pacific. Which makes the mining debate we'll

00:14:43.340 --> 00:14:45.379
get to later all the more complicated and fraught

00:14:45.379 --> 00:14:47.559
with tension. It really does. But before we get

00:14:47.559 --> 00:14:49.700
to the modern economy, I want to step back. We've

00:14:49.700 --> 00:14:52.220
talked about the land and the water. Now I want

00:14:52.220 --> 00:14:54.919
to talk about the name, the Cook Islands. A name

00:14:54.919 --> 00:14:57.600
that carries a lot of baggage and a lot of historical

00:14:57.600 --> 00:15:00.149
confusion. I was surprised, I mean genuinely

00:15:00.149 --> 00:15:02.850
surprised, to learn that Captain Cook didn't

00:15:02.850 --> 00:15:05.610
name them that. No, that is one of the most common

00:15:05.610 --> 00:15:08.090
misconceptions in Pacific history. Captain James

00:15:08.090 --> 00:15:11.289
Cook did visit. He stopped by in 1773 and again

00:15:11.289 --> 00:15:14.429
in 1777 during his voyages. He was just passing

00:15:14.429 --> 00:15:16.950
through. Essentially. He spent very little time

00:15:16.950 --> 00:15:19.110
there. He charted some of the islands for sure.

00:15:19.549 --> 00:15:23.519
He named one island Manue, Hervey Island. After

00:15:23.519 --> 00:15:25.519
a Lord of the Admiralty back in England. Okay,

00:15:25.580 --> 00:15:28.159
so a classic colonial naming convention. Very

00:15:28.159 --> 00:15:31.200
typical. But he actually missed Rarotonga entirely,

00:15:31.639 --> 00:15:33.559
the main island. He sailed right past it without

00:15:33.559 --> 00:15:36.179
seeing it. So the idea that he discovered or

00:15:36.179 --> 00:15:39.299
named the whole group is just wrong. So for a

00:15:39.299 --> 00:15:41.679
while on the British maps, they were the Hervey

00:15:41.679 --> 00:15:43.799
Islands. The southern group was, yes, for about

00:15:43.799 --> 00:15:47.200
50 years. So how on earth did we get Cook Islands?

00:15:47.639 --> 00:15:50.799
If not from Cook, then from who? The name actually

00:15:50.799 --> 00:15:53.419
came from a Russian. A Russian? In the South

00:15:53.419 --> 00:15:55.799
Pacific. How does that happen? A Baltic German

00:15:55.799 --> 00:15:58.340
cartographer working for the Russian Navy? An

00:15:58.340 --> 00:16:01.419
admiral named Adam Johann von Krusenstern? Okay,

00:16:01.500 --> 00:16:04.500
that is a name. In the 1820s, decades after Cook

00:16:04.500 --> 00:16:07.440
had died. Kruisenstern was compiling this grand,

00:16:07.659 --> 00:16:10.980
definitive atlas of the Pacific. He admired Cook

00:16:10.980 --> 00:16:13.639
immensely as a navigator and explorer. He saw

00:16:13.639 --> 00:16:16.519
him as the father of Pacific cartography. So

00:16:16.519 --> 00:16:18.500
as a tribute, he looked at the southern group

00:16:18.500 --> 00:16:20.740
of islands on his charts and decided to name

00:16:20.740 --> 00:16:23.100
them the Cook Islands in honor of the captain.

00:16:23.399 --> 00:16:25.840
So a Russian cartographer working in St. Petersburg

00:16:25.840 --> 00:16:28.779
named a Polynesian nation after a British explorer

00:16:28.779 --> 00:16:31.100
who barely spent any time there. It shows that

00:16:31.100 --> 00:16:33.399
globalization started earlier than we think.

00:16:33.500 --> 00:16:36.200
And that name. published in this very influential

00:16:36.200 --> 00:16:39.470
atlas, stuck. it became the international standard.

00:16:39.690 --> 00:16:41.289
But before the Russians and the British showed

00:16:41.289 --> 00:16:44.070
up, the islands obviously had names. And looking

00:16:44.070 --> 00:16:46.429
at the Spanish records, some of the very first

00:16:46.429 --> 00:16:49.110
European names were arguably much, much better.

00:16:49.230 --> 00:16:51.990
Much more poetic, certainly. The Spanish were

00:16:51.990 --> 00:16:54.029
actually the first Europeans to spot the northern

00:16:54.029 --> 00:16:58.289
islands, way back in 1595. The explorer Alvaro

00:16:58.289 --> 00:17:01.789
de Mendana saw the atoll of Pucapuca and named

00:17:01.789 --> 00:17:04.990
it San Bernardo. San Bernardo, okay. A bit generic.

00:17:05.470 --> 00:17:09.390
It is. But then in 1606, the Portuguese captain

00:17:09.390 --> 00:17:12.289
Pedro Fernandes de Queiroz, who was sailing for

00:17:12.289 --> 00:17:16.069
Spain, landed on the island of Rockahunga. And

00:17:16.069 --> 00:17:18.210
he was so struck by the inhabitants, he described

00:17:18.210 --> 00:17:20.869
them as healthy, strong, beautiful, that he named

00:17:20.869 --> 00:17:23.950
the island Gente Hermosa. Which translates to?

00:17:24.069 --> 00:17:26.450
Beautiful people. The island of beautiful people.

00:17:26.490 --> 00:17:28.210
I mean, come on, from a branding perspective,

00:17:28.609 --> 00:17:31.450
that is gold. Why would you trade the island

00:17:31.450 --> 00:17:34.410
of beautiful people for the Cook Islands? Well,

00:17:34.470 --> 00:17:37.150
colonial powers rarely asked the locals for branding

00:17:37.150 --> 00:17:39.950
advice. The maps were drawn in London and St.

00:17:40.009 --> 00:17:43.190
Petersburg, not Rakahanga. But this brings us

00:17:43.190 --> 00:17:46.250
to a very modern, very heated debate. There is

00:17:46.250 --> 00:17:48.190
a strong movement to change the name. To get

00:17:48.190 --> 00:17:51.089
rid of Cook. Yes. The name is seen by many as

00:17:51.089 --> 00:17:54.150
a colonial relic. In 2019, a government committee

00:17:54.150 --> 00:17:56.190
was formed to look into this, and they actually

00:17:56.190 --> 00:17:58.269
recommended dropping the English name entirely

00:17:58.269 --> 00:18:01.190
to find a new title that reflects the Polynesian

00:18:01.190 --> 00:18:03.630
nature of the nation. Something indigenous. Exactly.

00:18:03.650 --> 00:18:05.849
Something that spoke to their own history, not

00:18:05.849 --> 00:18:08.329
a British captain's history, especially a captain

00:18:08.329 --> 00:18:10.329
who didn't even stop at the main island and had

00:18:10.329 --> 00:18:12.710
nothing to do with naming the country. It makes

00:18:12.710 --> 00:18:16.500
sense. We've seen this happen elsewhere. Swaziland

00:18:16.500 --> 00:18:20.259
became Eswatini. Rhodesia became Zimbabwe. It's

00:18:20.259 --> 00:18:22.920
a post -colonial reclaiming of identity. It is.

00:18:23.019 --> 00:18:25.759
But the backlash was fascinating. It didn't just

00:18:25.759 --> 00:18:28.039
come from conservative traditionalists on the

00:18:28.039 --> 00:18:29.940
islands or, you know, people worried about the

00:18:29.940 --> 00:18:32.950
cost of rebranding the tourism board. Where did

00:18:32.950 --> 00:18:36.589
it come from? It came very loudly and very passionately

00:18:36.589 --> 00:18:38.869
from the diaspora. The Cook Islanders living

00:18:38.869 --> 00:18:41.410
overseas. Right. And we'll touch on the numbers

00:18:41.410 --> 00:18:43.750
later, but they are staggering. There are way

00:18:43.750 --> 00:18:46.930
more Cook Islanders in New Zealand and Australia

00:18:46.930 --> 00:18:49.750
than there are in the Cook Islands itself. And

00:18:49.750 --> 00:18:52.250
a huge number of them said, no, don't change

00:18:52.250 --> 00:18:54.890
it. Why? That seems counterintuitive. You'd think

00:18:54.890 --> 00:18:56.970
they would be the most supportive of a pro -indigenous

00:18:56.970 --> 00:19:00.099
move. Identity is a tricky thing, isn't it? For

00:19:00.099 --> 00:19:02.880
those living away for generations in some cases,

00:19:03.079 --> 00:19:05.960
the label Cook Islander is how they define themselves

00:19:05.960 --> 00:19:08.259
in a foreign land. It's the box they check on

00:19:08.259 --> 00:19:10.000
the census. It's the name of their church group,

00:19:10.019 --> 00:19:12.059
their rugby club. It's their brand. It's their

00:19:12.059 --> 00:19:14.789
identity. They felt that changing the name was

00:19:14.789 --> 00:19:17.190
like erasing the label they had built their lives

00:19:17.190 --> 00:19:19.190
and communities around. They felt a sense of

00:19:19.190 --> 00:19:22.190
ownership over the name Cook Islands, maybe even

00:19:22.190 --> 00:19:24.910
more so than the people at home. That is a fascinating

00:19:24.910 --> 00:19:27.130
psychological twist. The people who actually

00:19:27.130 --> 00:19:29.630
live there might want to change it to reflect

00:19:29.630 --> 00:19:33.029
their daily reality and heritage. But the people

00:19:33.029 --> 00:19:36.250
who left are holding on to the name as an anchor

00:19:36.250 --> 00:19:38.710
to that very heritage. Exactly. It highlights

00:19:38.710 --> 00:19:40.589
this incredible tension between the homeland

00:19:40.589 --> 00:19:43.380
and the community abroad. So in the end, they

00:19:43.380 --> 00:19:46.000
reached a compromise. The classic political solution.

00:19:46.259 --> 00:19:48.039
Pretty much. They kept the English name Cook

00:19:48.039 --> 00:19:50.740
Islands. But they are working on adopting a new

00:19:50.740 --> 00:19:54.019
official Maori name to sit alongside it. Currently,

00:19:54.019 --> 00:19:57.119
the Maori name is Kuki Irani. Which is just?

00:19:57.319 --> 00:19:59.559
It's just a transliteration. It's Cook Islands

00:19:59.559 --> 00:20:02.480
spoken with a Maori phonology. It has no deeper

00:20:02.480 --> 00:20:05.430
meaning. They want a proper name that has actual

00:20:05.430 --> 00:20:07.529
cultural resonance, perhaps referring to the

00:20:07.529 --> 00:20:10.609
ocean or the people or historical figure. But

00:20:10.609 --> 00:20:13.390
for now, Cook Islands remains the global brand.

00:20:13.750 --> 00:20:16.329
This tension between the locals and the diaspora,

00:20:16.450 --> 00:20:18.750
and especially the influence of New Zealand,

00:20:18.890 --> 00:20:22.109
is the perfect segue to the politics. Because

00:20:22.109 --> 00:20:23.930
when I try to figure out the political status

00:20:23.930 --> 00:20:27.009
of this country, I got a headache. It is unique.

00:20:27.109 --> 00:20:29.049
It really is one of a kind. Are they independent?

00:20:29.250 --> 00:20:30.950
Are they part of New Zealand? And it seems to

00:20:30.950 --> 00:20:33.920
be both and neither. The answer is yes and no.

00:20:34.259 --> 00:20:37.380
Since 1965, they have been a self -governing

00:20:37.380 --> 00:20:40.400
state in free association with New Zealand. Free

00:20:40.400 --> 00:20:42.900
association. Break that down for us. This isn't

00:20:42.900 --> 00:20:46.420
just a colony or a territory like, say, Guam

00:20:46.420 --> 00:20:48.539
is to the U .S. No, it's not a colony. The Cook

00:20:48.539 --> 00:20:50.839
Islands has its own parliament. They have their

00:20:50.839 --> 00:20:53.460
own prime minister, currently Mark Brown. They

00:20:53.460 --> 00:20:56.000
write their own laws. They manage their own budget.

00:20:56.259 --> 00:20:58.900
If the New Zealand parliament passes a law in

00:20:58.900 --> 00:21:01.680
Wellington, it does not apply in Rarotonga unless

00:21:01.680 --> 00:21:04.000
the Cook Islands parliament explicitly chooses

00:21:04.000 --> 00:21:06.380
to adopt it. OK, so they are sovereign in terms

00:21:06.380 --> 00:21:08.339
of internal management. They run their own show

00:21:08.339 --> 00:21:10.680
at home. Correct. But historically, under the

00:21:10.680 --> 00:21:13.180
1965 agreement, New Zealand retained responsibility

00:21:13.180 --> 00:21:16.299
for defense and foreign affairs. The way a parent

00:21:16.299 --> 00:21:18.680
might handle things for an adult child living

00:21:18.680 --> 00:21:21.720
at home. That's a decent analogy, though over

00:21:21.720 --> 00:21:24.819
the decades that has changed significantly. The

00:21:24.819 --> 00:21:27.160
Cook Islands has taken over almost all of its

00:21:27.160 --> 00:21:29.720
own foreign affairs. They sign treaties. They

00:21:29.720 --> 00:21:32.920
establish embassies. So where is the link? What

00:21:32.920 --> 00:21:36.119
is the core of this association? The citizenship.

00:21:36.160 --> 00:21:39.119
This is the linchpin. This is the absolute core

00:21:39.119 --> 00:21:41.500
of the relationship. Explain the one -way street.

00:21:41.640 --> 00:21:44.549
I found this fascinating. Every person born in

00:21:44.549 --> 00:21:47.430
the Cook Islands or of Cook Islands descent is

00:21:47.430 --> 00:21:50.730
a New Zealand citizen. They hold a black New

00:21:50.730 --> 00:21:53.630
Zealand passport, period, full stop. That is

00:21:53.630 --> 00:21:55.690
incredibly valuable. It is one of the most powerful

00:21:55.690 --> 00:21:58.549
passports in the world. It means a kid born on

00:21:58.549 --> 00:22:01.230
a tiny atoll in the northern group can grow up,

00:22:01.289 --> 00:22:03.930
fly to Auckland, go to university, get access

00:22:03.930 --> 00:22:06.130
to the New Zealand health care system, get a

00:22:06.130 --> 00:22:07.750
job and live there for the rest of their life

00:22:07.750 --> 00:22:10.069
without ever applying for a visa. It's an automatic

00:22:10.069 --> 00:22:11.839
right. But it doesn't work the other way around.

00:22:11.920 --> 00:22:14.119
No. And this is the genius of the arrangement

00:22:14.119 --> 00:22:16.920
for them. A New Zealander born in Christchurch

00:22:16.920 --> 00:22:19.380
is not a Cook Islands national. I thought just

00:22:19.380 --> 00:22:22.160
move there. No. They are treated as foreigners.

00:22:22.319 --> 00:22:24.980
They can't just move to Rarotonga and buy a house

00:22:24.980 --> 00:22:27.480
or a piece of land. They can't vote there. There

00:22:27.480 --> 00:22:30.960
are strict controls on land ownership to ensure

00:22:30.960 --> 00:22:33.980
the small local population isn't bought out by

00:22:33.980 --> 00:22:37.339
wealthy foreigners. That is a sweet deal. You

00:22:37.339 --> 00:22:40.539
get the protection and the immense economic and

00:22:40.539 --> 00:22:43.200
social opportunity of a developed nation, but

00:22:43.200 --> 00:22:45.400
you protect your own sovereignty and land from

00:22:45.400 --> 00:22:47.579
being overwhelmed by them. It is the best of

00:22:47.579 --> 00:22:49.779
both worlds, which is why they guard it so jealously.

00:22:49.920 --> 00:22:52.160
And this explains the weird situation with the

00:22:52.160 --> 00:22:54.700
United Nations. Right. The Cook Islands is not

00:22:54.700 --> 00:22:56.759
a member of the UN, not a full member anyway.

00:22:57.099 --> 00:22:59.119
They are not. They are members of many U .N.

00:22:59.140 --> 00:23:01.440
agencies like the World Health Organization and

00:23:01.440 --> 00:23:03.900
UNESCO. They have what's called treaty -making

00:23:03.900 --> 00:23:06.200
capacity, which is a big deal in international

00:23:06.200 --> 00:23:09.200
law. But they don't have a seat and a vote in

00:23:09.200 --> 00:23:11.160
the General Assembly. Why not? They're a country.

00:23:11.299 --> 00:23:13.559
They act like a country. Because New Zealand

00:23:13.559 --> 00:23:16.000
has quietly warned, and the Cook Islands government

00:23:16.000 --> 00:23:19.019
understands, that full U .N. membership usually

00:23:19.019 --> 00:23:21.799
implies a full, distinct, and separate citizenship.

00:23:22.750 --> 00:23:25.809
The UN Charter is about member states. And if

00:23:25.809 --> 00:23:28.529
they become a fully separate member state, the

00:23:28.529 --> 00:23:30.730
argument for them keeping New Zealand citizenship

00:23:30.730 --> 00:23:33.829
gets much, much weaker. Exactly. New Zealand

00:23:33.829 --> 00:23:35.730
might say, OK, if you want to be totally independent

00:23:35.730 --> 00:23:37.490
on the world stage, that's great. We support

00:23:37.490 --> 00:23:40.049
you. But you need to have your own passport.

00:23:40.230 --> 00:23:42.670
You can't have it both ways. Hand back our passports.

00:23:42.809 --> 00:23:45.920
And for the people. That is a nonstarter. A total

00:23:45.920 --> 00:23:48.859
nonstarter. The ability to live and work in New

00:23:48.859 --> 00:23:51.519
Zealand is the economic and social safety valve

00:23:51.519 --> 00:23:55.039
for the entire country. So the prime minister,

00:23:55.160 --> 00:23:57.579
Mark Brown, recently noted that joining the U

00:23:57.579 --> 00:23:59.779
.N. isn't a priority because it poses a direct

00:23:59.779 --> 00:24:02.700
risk to that citizenship status. It would require

00:24:02.700 --> 00:24:05.339
a referendum and it likely wouldn't pass. They

00:24:05.339 --> 00:24:07.960
are walking a geopolitical tightrope. They want

00:24:07.960 --> 00:24:10.450
to be independent enough. to sign deals with

00:24:10.450 --> 00:24:12.509
the U .S. and China, but dependent enough to

00:24:12.509 --> 00:24:14.430
keep the passports. And they are doing it successfully.

00:24:14.730 --> 00:24:17.789
In 2023, the United States formally recognized

00:24:17.789 --> 00:24:20.609
the Cook Islands as a sovereign state and established

00:24:20.609 --> 00:24:23.509
full diplomatic relations. That was a huge win

00:24:23.509 --> 00:24:26.490
for them. A major validation. It validated their

00:24:26.490 --> 00:24:28.269
sovereignty in the eyes of the world's biggest

00:24:28.269 --> 00:24:30.710
superpower without forcing them to break the

00:24:30.710 --> 00:24:33.529
New Zealand link. It was a masterful piece of

00:24:33.529 --> 00:24:36.759
diplomacy. It's basically saying... We are small,

00:24:36.819 --> 00:24:38.839
but we are complicated, and you have to deal

00:24:38.839 --> 00:24:41.720
with us on our terms. And being complicated and

00:24:41.720 --> 00:24:44.960
sovereign costs money. Running a country costs

00:24:44.960 --> 00:24:48.200
money. Which brings us to the economy. Segment

00:24:48.200 --> 00:24:52.200
four, sun, sea, and secrecy. Let's start with

00:24:52.200 --> 00:24:55.299
the sun, tourism. It's the obvious one. White

00:24:55.299 --> 00:24:58.200
sand beaches. Blue water. It is the engine. It

00:24:58.200 --> 00:25:01.900
accounts for about 67 .5 % of the GDP. Two -thirds

00:25:01.900 --> 00:25:03.700
of every dollar made in that country comes from

00:25:03.700 --> 00:25:06.000
visitors, mostly from New Zealand and Australia.

00:25:06.359 --> 00:25:08.119
It feels incredibly risky. We saw what happened

00:25:08.119 --> 00:25:10.440
during the pandemic. The tap turned off. Overnight,

00:25:10.519 --> 00:25:13.339
zero income. It revealed just how fragile that

00:25:13.339 --> 00:25:16.160
economic monoculture is. And it all relies on

00:25:16.160 --> 00:25:18.420
a single point of failure. Baratanga International

00:25:18.420 --> 00:25:21.440
Airport. If a major cyclone takes up that runway,

00:25:21.539 --> 00:25:24.519
the economy stops. Period. So they need to diversify.

00:25:24.859 --> 00:25:26.900
And this is where things get morally interesting.

00:25:27.079 --> 00:25:29.519
The outline mentions asset protection. This is

00:25:29.519 --> 00:25:31.500
the part of the Cook Islands economy you don't

00:25:31.500 --> 00:25:33.599
see on the postcards with the sunsets. We're

00:25:33.599 --> 00:25:36.779
talking about offshore trusts, a tax haven. Not

00:25:36.779 --> 00:25:38.920
exactly a tax haven in the traditional sense,

00:25:39.019 --> 00:25:42.420
more of a legal fortress. Since 1989, the Cook

00:25:42.420 --> 00:25:44.500
Islands has passed a series of laws designed

00:25:44.500 --> 00:25:46.839
to make it the world's premier jurisdiction for

00:25:46.839 --> 00:25:49.319
asset protection trusts. In plain English, what

00:25:49.319 --> 00:25:52.140
does that mean? It means it is a place to put

00:25:52.140 --> 00:25:57.180
your money where... Lawyers, creditors, and angry

00:25:57.180 --> 00:25:59.900
ex -spouses cannot get it. The New York Times

00:25:59.900 --> 00:26:01.880
had a pretty scathing quote about this. They

00:26:01.880 --> 00:26:04.980
said these laws were devised to thwart the reach

00:26:04.980 --> 00:26:07.799
of American justice. That is not an exaggeration.

00:26:07.839 --> 00:26:09.900
That is literally what they are for. Here is

00:26:09.900 --> 00:26:12.339
how it works. Let's say you are a wealthy doctor

00:26:12.339 --> 00:26:14.339
in California. You are worried about getting

00:26:14.339 --> 00:26:16.660
sued for malpractice in the future. You move

00:26:16.660 --> 00:26:19.119
your life savings into a Cook Islands trust.

00:26:19.599 --> 00:26:23.579
Okay. Then I get sued. A jury in California finds

00:26:23.579 --> 00:26:26.640
against me. The judge says, you owe the plaintiff

00:26:26.640 --> 00:26:30.039
$2 million. Hand it over. You then say, I'd love

00:26:30.039 --> 00:26:32.339
to, Your Honor, but I can't. The money isn't

00:26:32.339 --> 00:26:35.319
mine anymore. It's owned by my trust in the Cook

00:26:35.319 --> 00:26:38.529
Islands. The judge then orders the Cook Islands

00:26:38.529 --> 00:26:41.509
trustee to hand over the money. And the trustee

00:26:41.509 --> 00:26:44.029
says. The Cook Islands trustee says, I'm sorry,

00:26:44.170 --> 00:26:46.789
I can't do that. That court order is from California.

00:26:46.849 --> 00:26:49.430
We don't recognize it here. They even have a

00:26:49.430 --> 00:26:51.970
specific clause in their law called the duress

00:26:51.970 --> 00:26:55.470
clause. If a foreign trustee is ordered by a

00:26:55.470 --> 00:26:58.490
foreign court to hand over money, they are legally

00:26:58.490 --> 00:27:01.509
required by Cook Islands law to ignore that order

00:27:01.509 --> 00:27:03.910
because they are deemed to be acting under duress.

00:27:03.910 --> 00:27:06.130
They just ignore the U .S. court system. Yeah.

00:27:06.160 --> 00:27:08.980
Yes. Under Cook Islands law, foreign judgments

00:27:08.980 --> 00:27:12.079
are generally meaningless. If the person suing

00:27:12.079 --> 00:27:13.579
you wants that money, they have to start all

00:27:13.579 --> 00:27:15.259
over again. They have to fly to the Cook Islands.

00:27:15.380 --> 00:27:17.539
They have to hire a local lawyer. They have to

00:27:17.539 --> 00:27:20.440
file a brand new lawsuit in a Cook Islands court

00:27:20.440 --> 00:27:23.000
under Cook Islands law. Which I assume is expensive

00:27:23.000 --> 00:27:25.500
and difficult. Incredibly. And the standard of

00:27:25.500 --> 00:27:28.759
proof is much higher. In the U .S., for a civil

00:27:28.759 --> 00:27:31.380
case, you just need a preponderance of the evidence,

00:27:31.559 --> 00:27:35.259
you know, 51 % likely. In the Cook Islands, for

00:27:35.259 --> 00:27:37.519
a claim of fraudulent transfer to be successful,

00:27:37.799 --> 00:27:40.380
you need proof beyond a reasonable doubt. That's

00:27:40.380 --> 00:27:42.380
the criminal standard. That is the standard used

00:27:42.380 --> 00:27:44.839
for murder trials. It is nearly impossible to

00:27:44.839 --> 00:27:47.279
win. So it's a fortress. It is a financial fortress.

00:27:47.380 --> 00:27:49.660
And for the Cook Islands government, it's lucrative.

00:27:50.000 --> 00:27:52.420
The fees and taxes from this trust industry make

00:27:52.420 --> 00:27:56.000
up about 8 % of the GDP. 8%. That's significant.

00:27:56.279 --> 00:27:58.180
It's more than they make from selling fishing

00:27:58.180 --> 00:28:01.059
licenses for their entire EEZ. That is wild.

00:28:01.220 --> 00:28:04.819
A tiny island nation effectively monetizing its

00:28:04.819 --> 00:28:07.240
sovereignty by creating a legal black hole for

00:28:07.240 --> 00:28:09.680
the U .S. justice system. It's a niche, a very

00:28:09.680 --> 00:28:11.740
controversial one, but a very profitable one.

00:28:11.859 --> 00:28:14.460
It raises huge questions about global equity

00:28:14.460 --> 00:28:16.660
and justice. But from the Cook Islands perspective,

00:28:17.180 --> 00:28:19.380
they are providing a legal service in a competitive

00:28:19.380 --> 00:28:21.809
global market. But there is another potential

00:28:21.809 --> 00:28:23.730
windfall on the horizon, and this one might be

00:28:23.730 --> 00:28:25.589
even more controversial than the hidden cache.

00:28:26.289 --> 00:28:28.829
Seabed mining. This brings us back to the ocean

00:28:28.829 --> 00:28:33.549
and back to that massive EEZ. The deep seabed

00:28:33.549 --> 00:28:36.329
in the Cook Island zone is in places literally

00:28:36.329 --> 00:28:38.890
paved with polymetallic nodules. They look like

00:28:38.890 --> 00:28:40.789
black potatoes, right? That's what I read. Basically,

00:28:40.789 --> 00:28:43.970
yes. Lumpy potato -sized rocks sitting on the

00:28:43.970 --> 00:28:46.930
sediment thousands of meters down. But inside

00:28:46.930 --> 00:28:49.269
those unassuming lumps are high concentrations

00:28:49.269 --> 00:28:53.170
of cobalt, nickel, copper, and manganese. The

00:28:53.170 --> 00:28:56.029
battery metals. The exact metals the world is

00:28:56.029 --> 00:28:58.509
screaming for. The metals you need for electric

00:28:58.509 --> 00:29:01.430
vehicles, for wind turbines, for the entire green

00:29:01.430 --> 00:29:04.109
transition. The Cook Islands is sitting on a

00:29:04.109 --> 00:29:07.170
gold mine, or rather a cobalt mine of these things.

00:29:07.309 --> 00:29:08.769
And they want to harvest them. They are moving

00:29:08.769 --> 00:29:11.420
forward aggressively. They pass the seabed. Minerals

00:29:11.420 --> 00:29:15.299
Act in 2019. In 2025, they sign exploration agreements

00:29:15.299 --> 00:29:17.920
with both U .S. and Chinese -affiliated companies.

00:29:18.039 --> 00:29:20.079
But hold on. We just spent all this time talking

00:29:20.079 --> 00:29:22.579
about Maramuana, the sacred ocean, the world's

00:29:22.579 --> 00:29:25.019
largest marine park. How do you square we are

00:29:25.019 --> 00:29:27.240
the guardians of the pristine ocean with we are

00:29:27.240 --> 00:29:30.039
going to send massive robotic dredgers to scrape

00:29:30.039 --> 00:29:32.839
the ocean floor? That is the tension. That is

00:29:32.839 --> 00:29:34.880
the core of the debate raging in the country

00:29:34.880 --> 00:29:37.019
right now. It's a contradiction. The government

00:29:37.019 --> 00:29:39.140
argues that it is necessary for their economic

00:29:39.140 --> 00:29:41.920
independence and self -sufficiency. They argue

00:29:41.920 --> 00:29:44.619
that if the world wants green energy, these metals

00:29:44.619 --> 00:29:46.940
have to come from somewhere, and it's better

00:29:46.940 --> 00:29:49.039
to pick them up off the seafloor than to strip

00:29:49.039 --> 00:29:51.680
mine the rainforests of the Congo or Indonesia.

00:29:52.279 --> 00:29:55.940
They call it the blue economy. What do the environmentalists

00:29:55.940 --> 00:29:58.990
and marine biologists say? They say we have absolutely

00:29:58.990 --> 00:30:01.289
no idea what we're doing. We know less about

00:30:01.289 --> 00:30:03.309
the deep ocean floor than we do about the surface

00:30:03.309 --> 00:30:06.250
of Mars. Dredging up those nodules could destroy

00:30:06.250 --> 00:30:08.450
entire ecosystems we haven't even discovered

00:30:08.450 --> 00:30:11.329
yet. It will create huge sediment plumes that

00:30:11.329 --> 00:30:13.789
could drift for miles and choke marine life,

00:30:13.930 --> 00:30:16.549
including things like our expensive peppermint

00:30:16.549 --> 00:30:18.710
angelfish in the Twilight Zone. It feels like

00:30:18.710 --> 00:30:21.569
a massive gamble. They're betting the farm or

00:30:21.569 --> 00:30:24.220
the ocean on this industry. And they are doing

00:30:24.220 --> 00:30:26.859
it because they want to reduce that 67 percent

00:30:26.859 --> 00:30:30.759
dependence on tourism and foreign aid. If the

00:30:30.759 --> 00:30:33.180
mining pays off, the Cook Islands could become

00:30:33.180 --> 00:30:35.460
one of the wealthiest nations per capita in the

00:30:35.460 --> 00:30:38.519
Pacific. If it goes wrong, they could ruin their

00:30:38.519 --> 00:30:41.339
primary natural resource forever. High -stakes

00:30:41.339 --> 00:30:43.799
poker in the South Pacific. Played by a country

00:30:43.799 --> 00:30:46.200
with a resident population smaller than many

00:30:46.200 --> 00:30:47.819
universities. Let's talk about those people.

00:30:47.980 --> 00:30:50.660
Segment five, culture. We've talked about the

00:30:50.660 --> 00:30:52.940
politics and the money, but what about the soul

00:30:52.940 --> 00:30:55.299
of the place? The culture of the Cook Islands

00:30:55.299 --> 00:30:58.240
has gone through massive trauma and, at the same

00:30:58.240 --> 00:31:01.339
time, shown massive resilience. The pivot point

00:31:01.339 --> 00:31:04.460
for everything was the year 1821. Missionary.

00:31:04.500 --> 00:31:06.980
The London Missionary Society, led by a man named

00:31:06.980 --> 00:31:09.440
John Williams. When they arrived, the conversion

00:31:09.440 --> 00:31:12.339
to Christianity was incredibly rapid. It wasn't

00:31:12.339 --> 00:31:14.559
a centuries -long struggle like in some places.

00:31:14.619 --> 00:31:16.500
It happened in decades. And it was thorough.

00:31:17.019 --> 00:31:19.240
Very thorough. And with that conversion came

00:31:19.240 --> 00:31:22.539
a very forceful rejection of the old ways. The

00:31:22.539 --> 00:31:25.140
sources described the mass burning of the idol

00:31:25.140 --> 00:31:28.440
gods or staff gods. These were intricate, massive

00:31:28.440 --> 00:31:30.680
wood carvings that represented the ancestors

00:31:30.680 --> 00:31:33.880
and deities. Some were 20 feet long, carved from

00:31:33.880 --> 00:31:36.019
a single piece of ironwood. They just burned

00:31:36.019 --> 00:31:38.859
them. Entire artistic and spiritual tradition

00:31:38.859 --> 00:31:41.960
up in smoke. Many were burned. Some were burned

00:31:41.960 --> 00:31:44.079
by the missionaries, but many were burned by

00:31:44.079 --> 00:31:46.079
the islanders themselves as a public demonstration

00:31:46.079 --> 00:31:48.990
of their new faith. a few were saved by the missionaries

00:31:48.990 --> 00:31:51.369
and sent back to london as curiosities proof

00:31:51.369 --> 00:31:54.230
of their success in converting the heathens which

00:31:54.230 --> 00:31:57.549
means which means ironically that the best and

00:31:57.549 --> 00:31:59.710
largest collection of traditional cook islands

00:31:59.710 --> 00:32:02.589
religious art is now in the british museum not

00:32:02.589 --> 00:32:06.329
in rarotonga that is a profound almost incalculable

00:32:06.329 --> 00:32:09.420
loss of physical history it is But culture is

00:32:09.420 --> 00:32:11.880
adaptable. It finds new ways to express itself.

00:32:11.980 --> 00:32:14.759
When one door closes, another opens. And this

00:32:14.759 --> 00:32:16.940
brings us to Tevive. I looked up pictures of

00:32:16.940 --> 00:32:19.180
these after reading the notes. They are stunning.

00:32:19.400 --> 00:32:22.400
These are the quilts, right? Yes. Elaborate,

00:32:22.400 --> 00:32:26.049
beautiful patchwork quilts. Quilting isn't originally

00:32:26.049 --> 00:32:28.990
Polynesian. The technique was introduced by the

00:32:28.990 --> 00:32:31.950
wives of the missionaries. They taught the local

00:32:31.950 --> 00:32:36.210
women how to sew patchwork as a civilized pastime.

00:32:36.289 --> 00:32:38.329
But the Cook Island women didn't just copy the

00:32:38.329 --> 00:32:40.910
British floral patterns. No. They completely

00:32:40.910 --> 00:32:43.089
indigenized the art form. They took the needle

00:32:43.089 --> 00:32:45.710
and thread and created something vibrant, bold,

00:32:45.789 --> 00:32:48.509
and deeply Polynesian. The designs are almost

00:32:48.509 --> 00:32:51.130
never geometric like American quilts. They usually

00:32:51.130 --> 00:32:54.109
feature local botany flowers like the tiara mori,

00:32:54.210 --> 00:32:57.769
leaves, sea life, in these incredibly bright,

00:32:57.910 --> 00:33:00.549
high -contrast colors. It's not just about the

00:33:00.549 --> 00:33:02.150
blanket, though, is it? It's about the making

00:33:02.150 --> 00:33:04.410
of it, the process. Correct. That's the most

00:33:04.410 --> 00:33:06.750
important part. Tivive is a communal activity.

00:33:06.890 --> 00:33:08.730
You don't usually make one alone in your room.

00:33:09.579 --> 00:33:12.180
Gather in groups called Venetini. They work together

00:33:12.180 --> 00:33:14.819
on a single quilt. They sing. They gossip. They

00:33:14.819 --> 00:33:16.980
tell stories. They pass on traditions. They teach

00:33:16.980 --> 00:33:19.299
the younger generation. It became the new social

00:33:19.299 --> 00:33:21.700
glue. It became the social fabric of the community.

00:33:22.019 --> 00:33:26.319
I love that image. Taking a tool from the colonizer.

00:33:26.759 --> 00:33:29.099
the sewing needle, and using it to stitch your

00:33:29.099 --> 00:33:31.599
own community tighter together after so much

00:33:31.599 --> 00:33:34.119
was torn apart. It's a beautiful metaphor for

00:33:34.119 --> 00:33:37.140
cultural resilience. And these quilts are high

00:33:37.140 --> 00:33:39.440
-status items. They are treasures. You don't

00:33:39.440 --> 00:33:41.779
just buy them at a souvenir shop. They are gifted

00:33:41.779 --> 00:33:44.480
at weddings, at haircutting ceremonies for young

00:33:44.480 --> 00:33:47.299
boys, at funerals where they drape the casket.

00:33:47.420 --> 00:33:50.319
They wrap the milestones of life. We should mention

00:33:50.319 --> 00:33:52.650
language, too. Because we talked about the diversity

00:33:52.650 --> 00:33:54.589
of the islands, and that's reflected in this

00:33:54.589 --> 00:33:57.309
speech. Absolutely. English is the official language

00:33:57.309 --> 00:33:59.569
of government, but Cook Islands Maori is the

00:33:59.569 --> 00:34:01.980
language of the heart. But even that isn't a

00:34:01.980 --> 00:34:04.400
monolith. Because the islands are so far apart,

00:34:04.680 --> 00:34:07.140
the languages drifted over the centuries of isolation.

00:34:07.619 --> 00:34:10.039
Give me an example. The language spoken on Pukapuka

00:34:10.039 --> 00:34:12.699
in the far north is actually much closer to Samoan

00:34:12.699 --> 00:34:15.380
than it is to the Maori spoken on Rarotonga in

00:34:15.380 --> 00:34:18.239
the south. Really? Yes. It reflects the ancient

00:34:18.239 --> 00:34:22.000
migration paths of the Pacific. Pukakuka is geographically

00:34:22.000 --> 00:34:24.940
closer to Samoa than Rarotonga, so its linguistic

00:34:24.940 --> 00:34:27.099
roots are different. It's a distinct language,

00:34:27.280 --> 00:34:30.340
really. It really drives home just how spread...

00:34:30.380 --> 00:34:32.500
out this country is. It's almost a collection

00:34:32.500 --> 00:34:35.699
of city states or island states bound together

00:34:35.699 --> 00:34:39.340
by a line on a map. And now bound together by

00:34:39.340 --> 00:34:42.619
a diaspora, which brings us to our final and

00:34:42.619 --> 00:34:45.400
perhaps most critical segment, demographics,

00:34:45.940 --> 00:34:48.860
the human equation. We threw out some numbers

00:34:48.860 --> 00:34:50.519
earlier, but I want to drill down on them because

00:34:50.519 --> 00:34:52.500
they're hard to wrap your head around. You said

00:34:52.500 --> 00:34:54.679
there are about 15 ,000 people living in the

00:34:54.679 --> 00:34:57.929
Cook Islands. Roughly, yes. The resident population

00:34:57.929 --> 00:35:00.889
fluctuates, but it hovers around 15 ,000 to 17

00:35:00.889 --> 00:35:03.710
,000 people. And how many people of Cook Island's

00:35:03.710 --> 00:35:06.690
descent are in New Zealand? The last census had

00:35:06.690 --> 00:35:10.389
it at over 80 ,000. And Australia? Another 28

00:35:10.389 --> 00:35:13.170
,000, roughly. Okay, let that sink in. For every

00:35:13.170 --> 00:35:15.010
one Cook Islander living in the Cook Islands,

00:35:15.190 --> 00:35:17.090
there are nearly seven or eight living overseas.

00:35:17.610 --> 00:35:20.349
It is a nation turned inside out. The majority

00:35:20.349 --> 00:35:22.610
of the nation lives outside the nation's borders.

00:35:22.769 --> 00:35:24.630
What does that do to a country? To a culture?

00:35:24.969 --> 00:35:28.070
It creates what sociologists call a transnational

00:35:28.070 --> 00:35:31.269
corporation of kin. The nation doesn't end at

00:35:31.269 --> 00:35:34.289
the reef. The real Cook Islands is a network

00:35:34.289 --> 00:35:36.530
that stretches from Rarotonga to Auckland to

00:35:36.530 --> 00:35:41.230
Sydney to Brisbane. Money, people, ideas, culture.

00:35:41.510 --> 00:35:44.210
It all flows back and forth constantly. But it

00:35:44.210 --> 00:35:47.210
creates massive practical problems, surely. If

00:35:47.210 --> 00:35:49.110
all the young working -age people leave for higher

00:35:49.110 --> 00:35:52.190
wages in New Zealand, who runs the country? That

00:35:52.190 --> 00:35:55.159
is the crisis. Depopulation of the outer islands,

00:35:55.280 --> 00:35:57.840
the northern group especially, is severe. Some

00:35:57.840 --> 00:36:00.960
islands have fewer than 50 people left. Who maintains

00:36:00.960 --> 00:36:03.780
the airstrip? Who teaches the school? Who catches

00:36:03.780 --> 00:36:06.300
the rats to protect the birds? It's the brain

00:36:06.300 --> 00:36:09.239
drain on steroids. It is. And it leads to a labor

00:36:09.239 --> 00:36:11.719
shortage in the main economic hub, Rarotonga.

00:36:12.519 --> 00:36:14.719
Paradoxically, the Cook Islands now has to import

00:36:14.719 --> 00:36:17.300
foreign labor from the Philippines from Fiji

00:36:17.300 --> 00:36:19.039
to work in the hotels and service industries

00:36:19.039 --> 00:36:21.460
because the locals who would be doing those jobs

00:36:21.460 --> 00:36:23.599
are working in similar jobs in New Zealand for

00:36:23.599 --> 00:36:25.480
more money. So you have Cook Islanders serving

00:36:25.480 --> 00:36:27.719
coffee in Auckland and Filipinos serving coffee

00:36:27.719 --> 00:36:30.179
in Rarotonga. Globalization in a nutshell. It

00:36:30.179 --> 00:36:33.460
raises a really deep philosophical question about

00:36:33.460 --> 00:36:36.670
what a nation actually is. Is the Cook Islands

00:36:36.670 --> 00:36:40.130
the soil, the rocks, the 236 square kilometers?

00:36:40.329 --> 00:36:42.909
Or is it the people, the gente hermosa, wherever

00:36:42.909 --> 00:36:45.170
they happen to be? That is the existential question

00:36:45.170 --> 00:36:47.690
they're wrestling with every single day. The

00:36:47.690 --> 00:36:49.489
name change debate showed us that the people

00:36:49.489 --> 00:36:52.210
overseas still feel a deep connection in ownership.

00:36:52.670 --> 00:36:54.789
But the people on the ground are the ones keeping

00:36:54.789 --> 00:36:57.210
the lights on and the culture alive in its homeland.

00:36:57.840 --> 00:36:59.860
So let's try to summarize this incredible journey.

00:37:00.059 --> 00:37:02.659
We've gone from sunken volcanoes to high finance

00:37:02.659 --> 00:37:05.619
tax havens. We've seen a tiny nation that acts

00:37:05.619 --> 00:37:08.179
like a global player. A nation that has managed

00:37:08.179 --> 00:37:10.360
to secure the military and diplomatic protection

00:37:10.360 --> 00:37:12.960
of a larger neighbor, New Zealand, while carving

00:37:12.960 --> 00:37:15.340
out its own independent relationships with superpowers

00:37:15.340 --> 00:37:17.960
like the U .S. and China. A truly clever arrangement.

00:37:18.619 --> 00:37:20.500
A nation that declares itself the guardian of

00:37:20.500 --> 00:37:23.059
the world's largest marine park while simultaneously

00:37:23.059 --> 00:37:25.579
preparing to harvest the very minerals that lie

00:37:25.579 --> 00:37:29.099
on its seafloor. A nation of contrasts, of paradoxes,

00:37:29.099 --> 00:37:32.119
tradition and modernity, conservation and exploitation,

00:37:32.579 --> 00:37:35.300
home and away. It really is a balancing act.

00:37:35.460 --> 00:37:37.619
And it feels like the balance is shifting, that

00:37:37.619 --> 00:37:39.519
the ground is moving under their feet. It is.

00:37:39.519 --> 00:37:42.079
And that leads to my final provocative thought

00:37:42.079 --> 00:37:44.880
for you to mull over. Go for it. If you look

00:37:44.880 --> 00:37:47.159
at the trajectory. The diplomatic recognition

00:37:47.159 --> 00:37:50.780
by the U .S., the pursuit of seabed mining revenue,

00:37:51.059 --> 00:37:55.099
the increasingly distinct foreign policy, the

00:37:55.099 --> 00:37:58.039
Cook Islands, is acting more and more like a

00:37:58.039 --> 00:38:01.400
fully independent state. It is, in a way, growing

00:38:01.400 --> 00:38:03.539
up and moving out of the family home. Right.

00:38:03.619 --> 00:38:05.639
They're flexing their sovereign muscles. The

00:38:05.639 --> 00:38:08.659
question is, will the free association model

00:38:08.659 --> 00:38:11.739
eventually break under that pressure? Can a nation

00:38:11.739 --> 00:38:14.960
truly be independent on the global stage, signing

00:38:14.960 --> 00:38:17.320
deals with China and America while its citizens

00:38:17.320 --> 00:38:19.420
pledge allegiance to another country's passport?

00:38:19.719 --> 00:38:22.159
At what point does New Zealand look at this potentially

00:38:22.159 --> 00:38:24.940
wealthy, mining -rich, diplomatically active

00:38:24.940 --> 00:38:27.059
nation and say, OK, you're doing great, we're

00:38:27.059 --> 00:38:29.360
proud of you, but you can't have our passports

00:38:29.360 --> 00:38:31.699
anymore. It's time to have your own. That is

00:38:31.699 --> 00:38:34.929
the $64 million question. If they succeed too

00:38:34.929 --> 00:38:37.289
much at being independent, they might lose the

00:38:37.289 --> 00:38:39.309
very safety net that allowed them to succeed

00:38:39.309 --> 00:38:42.730
in the first place. Exactly. Is the current situation

00:38:42.730 --> 00:38:45.550
a permanent, clever loophole in the international

00:38:45.550 --> 00:38:48.710
system? Or is it just a transition phase toward

00:38:48.710 --> 00:38:51.690
full, complete separation and a Cook Islands

00:38:51.690 --> 00:38:55.449
passport? Only time and maybe the price of cobalt

00:38:55.449 --> 00:38:58.949
will tell. Indeed. While you ponder the geopolitical

00:38:58.949 --> 00:39:01.070
future of the Pacific, I have two homework assignments

00:39:01.070 --> 00:39:04.630
for you. First, go to your search engine of choice

00:39:04.630 --> 00:39:08.510
and look up Tevevi quilts. The colors are incredible.

00:39:08.590 --> 00:39:10.510
They will brighten up your day. They really are

00:39:10.510 --> 00:39:13.090
works of art. Truly beautiful. And second, look

00:39:13.090 --> 00:39:15.949
up the peppermint angelfish. Don't look at the

00:39:15.949 --> 00:39:17.610
price tag if you're thinking about starting an

00:39:17.610 --> 00:39:20.510
aquarium. Stick to goldfish. Much more affordable.

00:39:21.250 --> 00:39:23.090
Thanks for listening to this deep dive. We'll

00:39:23.090 --> 00:39:23.849
catch you on the next one.
