WEBVTT

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All right, let's let's unpack this today. We're

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diving into a pretty specific and honestly sometimes

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surprising area of investing. We're talking about

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the tax rules for gold and silver. Yeah, it's

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it's definitely not the same playbook you'd use

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for, say, stocks or bonds. And I think that's

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where a lot of the. confusion can come in. Exactly.

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And our guide for this deep dive, our source

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material, is an article by Doug Young. He seems

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to have a really solid background in both financial

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investing and the precious metals market itself.

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Right. And our mission here is, well... Pretty

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simple, really. We want to try and cut through

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some of that complexity, pull out the absolute

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must -know points from this article. So you can

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walk away understanding how the IRS actually

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looks at gold and silver, how profits get taxed,

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and importantly, what strategies the source mentions

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for maybe minimizing your tax liability. keeping

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more of your money. And believe us, there are

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some interesting twists here, particularly around

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why these assets get treated differently by the

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IRS and what that actually means for your tax

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bill. OK, so let's just jump right in. The core

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of it. Why are gold and silver taxes different?

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What does Doug Young's article flag right away

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as the the key distinction? Yeah, right off the

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bat, the article is super clear. The IRS classifies

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physical gold and silver as collectibles. Collectibles.

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OK. So not capital assets in the same way as

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like a share of Apple's stock or a corporate

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bond. And this classification, it's really the

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foundation for everything else tax wise, isn't

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it? That's honestly surprising to me. Collectibles,

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like you mean like art or, I don't know, rare

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stamps. How does that change the way gains are

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taxed compared to, let's say, selling a stock

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you've held? Well, the big impact is on the long

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term capital gains rate. I mean, just like other

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investments, if you sell gold or silver for a

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profit, that's a capital gain. Simple enough.

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But the rate you pay depends on how long you

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held it. OK, OK. So same basic idea of long term

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versus short term holding periods. But the actual

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numbers, the tax rates are different specifically

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because of this collectible status. Precisely.

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Yeah. The article specifies that for gold and

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silver held for more than a year, that's what

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the IRS counts as long term for these. The maximum

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capital gains tax rate is 28 percent. Whoa, hang

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on. Twenty eight percent. That. That feels quite

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a bit higher than the usual maximum long -term

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rate for stocks, right, which is about 20 % for

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most people. It is higher. And that's a really

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critical point from the source. Yeah. That collectible

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status means your long -term gains could face

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this higher 28 % rate. OK. So holding for over

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a year caps you at 28%. What if you sell faster?

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like within a year. Well if you sell within a

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year the article explains those gains are short

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-term capital gains and they get taxed at your

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ordinary income rate so depending on your total

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income that rate could go as high as 37%. Up

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to 37%. Okay, wow. So straight away, the holding

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period isn't just about long versus short. It's

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about a potentially massive difference in the

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actual tax rate applied to your profit. The article

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really seems to emphasize that just holding for

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that extra day over a year can make a really

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significant tax difference. Exactly. But, you

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know, before you even get to worrying about the

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rate, you need to figure out the actual gain.

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And that always starts with your cost basis.

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Right. And the article spends some time on this

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because it's not just the price tag on the metal

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itself when you bought it, is it? No, not at

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all. Your cost basis is like your initial investment

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amount in that specific asset. And the source

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is very clear. It includes more than just the

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spot price or the face value of a coin. OK. So

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what else gets included in that basis number?

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The article had a good example, I think. Yes.

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The source explains your cost basis, includes

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the initial purchase price, plus any other cost

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you had to pay to actually acquire it. So think

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about the premium you pay to a dealer, that amount

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over the melt value or spot price. That premium.

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That's part of your cost. Oh, interesting. So

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if you bought, say, a gold bar for $1 ,500, but

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the dealer charged a $50 premium, your starting

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point for calculating profit isn't $1 ,500. It's

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actually $50, $50. Exactly right. That $50 premium

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becomes part of your investment cost. And the

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article points out other costs you might be able

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to add to your basis, too. Like storage fees.

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If you're paying a third -party service to hold

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the physical metal for you. Correct, yeah. If

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you're paying for secure storage, those annual

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fees, according to the source, can be added to

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your cost basis. The article even gives an example,

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like, if you paid $100 a year for storage for

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three years, you could add $300 to your basis

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when you eventually sell. That reduces your taxable

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gain even further. That's a really crucial detail.

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It sounds like keeping meticulous records isn't

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just, you know, a good habit. It's absolutely

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essential for calculating your gain accurately

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and reporting it correctly. The source mentions

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reporting these sales on Schedule D of Form 1040,

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right? And it really stresses meeting detailed

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records, purchase dates, prices, those premiums,

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storage fees, maybe even costs related to the

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sale itself. Absolutely. Having that paper trail,

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that documentation helps make sure you're only

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paying tax on the actual profit you made after

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all those related costs are factored in, not

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some inflated amount. The example in the article

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about selling a silver coin for $200 with $150

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cost basis, making the gain $50 really shows

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why tracking that basis is so important. OK.

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OK. So we get the classification collectibles.

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We get the rates 28 % long term max, ordinary

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income short term. And we know how to figure

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out the starting point. the cost basis, what

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does the article say about being proactive, about

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actually trying to minimize the tax you might

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owe? Right, so the source naturally moves from

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just understanding the rules to... practical

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strategies for managing that tax bite. Though

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I guess we already sort of touched on the first

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one, didn't we? The holding period strategy.

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Exactly, yeah. Given that potential jump from

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a 28 % max rate up to possibly 37%, just simply

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holding your gold or silver for more than 365

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days is the most direct strategy the article

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discusses. That qualifies you for the lower long

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-term collectible rate. It's straightforward,

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but, well, it requires patience. Makes sense.

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And the other strategy mentioned. It sounds familiar

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from other kinds of investing, tax loss harvesting.

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Yes, exactly. The article explains how this technique,

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which you often hear about with stocks or mutual

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funds, can apply here, too. It basically involves

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selling an investment, any investment really,

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that has gone down in value to deliberately realize

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a loss on paper. OK, and how does realizing that

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loss help specifically with gains from gold and

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silver? Well, that realized loss can be used

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to offset capital gains you've made elsewhere.

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including gains from selling your gold or silver.

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So if you have, say, a $1 ,000 gain from selling

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some gold, but maybe a $600 loss from selling

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some stock, the article notes you'd only pay

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tax on the net gain of $400 in that scenario.

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It's basically a way to use losses in one part

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of your portfolio to reduce your overall taxable

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income from gains in another part. Now, the article

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also makes a point of highlighting a completely

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different sort of tax situation. If you decide

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to hold gold and silver within an IRA, Ah, right.

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The IRA route. That offers potential tax advantages,

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I guess. But it definitely comes with its own

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specific IRS rulebook. What's the first thing

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the source points out about putting precious

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metals into an IRA? The key constraint right

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up front is the purity standard. You can't just

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put any gold or silver coin or bar in there.

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The article is very specific. Gold must be 99

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.5 % pure and silver needs to be 99 .9 % pure

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to be eligible for a self -directed IRA. Okay.

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So things like, you know, specific bars or certain

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government coins that meet those standards. I

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think it mentioned American Gold Eagles or Canadian

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Maple Leafs as examples. So you really have to

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check that purity requirement carefully before

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buying for an IRA. Absolutely critical. And while

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your contributions generally follow the standard

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IRA limits, the tax treatment changes quite significantly

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when you eventually take distributions. when

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you take the metal or cash out. Right. The article

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emphasizes this point. When you withdraw metal

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or cash from a precious metals IRA, maybe in

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retirement, those distributions get taxed as

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ordinary income. That's correct. So unlike selling

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metal you held personally, where you might pay

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that 28 % collectible rate on long -term gains,

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taking it out of an IRA means it just gets added

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to your regular income for that year, and it's

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taxed at your marginal rate, which again could

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be up to 37%. It's a really crucial difference

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to understand if you're considering using an

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IRA for holding metals. Okay, so let's try and

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pull together the main takeaways here, the key

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insights from Doug Young's article on this. What

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are the absolute must -knows for you, the listener?

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Okay, number one I'd say, gold and silver are

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classified as collectibles by the IRS. That immediately

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sets them apart tax -wise from your typical stock

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and bond investments. Right. And that collectible

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classification means different capital gains

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rates. A maximum of 28 % for long -term gains

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if you hold over a year, which is probably higher

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than the rate for other assets you hold long

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-term. And your normal ordinary income rates?

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Potentially up to 37 % for any short -term gains

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if you hold a year or less. Yeah. And calculate

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your taxable gain. It's not just sale price minus

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purchase price. The source makes it really clear.

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You need to factor in your full cost basis that

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includes the purchase price plus things like

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those dealer premiums Maybe even storage fees

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all that significantly impacts the final taxable

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amount and the main strategies the article suggests

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for actually managing those taxes Well, there's

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the holding period strategy basically aim for

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holding over a year to target that lower 28 percent

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rate and using tax loss Harvesting across your

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whole portfolio to potentially offset some of

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those games And finally, if you go the IRA route,

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remember there are specific rules. Strict purity

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standards, 99 .5 % for gold, 99 .9 % for silver,

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for any metals held inside. And critically, any

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distributions you take out later are taxed as

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ordinary income, not at those collectible capital

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gains rates. You know, understanding these specific

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tax rules, it isn't just about checking boxes

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for the IRS. It seems absolutely vital for maximizing

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your potential net returns if you invest or are

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thinking about investing in physical precious

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metals. It really is a different tax animal,

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isn't it? It definitely is. It requires paying

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attention to details that maybe aren't always

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top of mind with other assets you might hold.

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Which, I think, brings us to a final thought

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for you to consider, sort of building on everything

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we've unpacked from the source in this deep dive.

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Given that gold and silver carry this unique

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collectible tax status, with those potentially

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higher long -term capital gains rates compared

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to many other investments, how might this specific

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tax treatment influence their strategic role,

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or maybe even their weighting, within your broader

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overall investment portfolio? Something to think

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about.
