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I mean it's for the benefit of not just the farmer, the community.

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In rural communities it's very difficult to get really healthy food and we have a lack

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of that.

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So we need to find a way to help in low income families to get access to organic food, natural

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food.

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So if we have those win-wins with these programs we need to focus on those.

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It gives me a lot of hope actually.

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The idea that people can access good local produce at a fair price.

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Welcome to the 360th installment of Ear to the Ground, the Land Stewardship Project's

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podcast on family farming, regenerative agriculture, community food systems and local democracy.

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I'm Brian DeVore, editor of the Land Stewardship Letter.

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Here are some troubling statistics.

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In 2023, 18 million US households were food insecure at some time during the year, according

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to the USDA.

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That figure is up from 17 million in 2022.

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Food insecurity is defined as a situation where people can't access the food they

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need to live their fullest lives.

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In short, these are people who, in the land of plenty, simply aren't getting enough

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to eat.

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There are problems throughout the country, but more common in rural areas.

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The USDA says that the food insecurity rate is around 12% in rural communities versus

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10.5% for all households.

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Rural areas comprise less than two-thirds of all US counties, but 9 out of 10 counties

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with the biggest food insecurity rates are rural, according to Feeding America.

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This is particularly ironic given how these rural communities are often the center of

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agricultural production.

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Meanwhile, there are plenty of farmers who are willing and able to produce food for local

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eaters in their communities, but who are stymied by a marketing and distribution system that's

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structured around commodities like corn and soybeans.

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This troubling gap between farmers and eaters was on my mind recently when I visited Rodrigo

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Colles Farm in western Wisconsin's Barron County.

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Rodrigo, who raises produce, chickens, hogs, and sheep, is participating in a program that's

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trying to reduce some of that food insecurity in rural areas while supporting farmers who

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produce fresh, nutritious fruits and vegetables, meats, and value-added products.

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The Wisconsin Local Food Purchase Assistance Program pays farmers a fair price for the

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production and then distributes that food to local food pantries and food banks.

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Called LFPA for short, versions of the initiative exist in other parts of the country and are

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often structured around a partnership between state departments of agriculture and local

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farm and food nonprofits.

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The USDA administers the program and funding is provided by the Federal American Rescue

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Plan.

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In Wisconsin, the program has been up and running for two years and has produced some

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impressive results.

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In 2024 alone, 125 farmers from throughout the state sold $1.8 million worth of food

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through the program.

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While visiting Rodrigo's farm to learn more about the initiative, I also chatted with

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Mike Lenz, who, along with his wife Jody, operates Threshing Table Farm in Star Prairie,

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Wisconsin.

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Like Rodrigo, the Lenz's have been selling produce through the LFPA program the past

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two years.

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I was struck by how the farmers were not only pleased with the economic boost the program

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is providing them, but with how it gives them a chance to feed local folks in the community

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who normally may not have access to fresh, nutritious food.

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While at the farm, I not only talked to Rodrigo and Mike, but also Katie Crocht and Tay Fedke.

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Katie works for the Wisconsin Department of Agriculture, Trade, and Consumer Protection

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and coordinates the LFPA program in the state.

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Tay is the farm education manager for Marble Seed, which is one of the organizations partnering

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on the initiative.

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Also partnering is the Wisconsin Food Hub Cooperative, which helps distribute the food

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and the Wisconsin Farmers Union.

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Rodrigo, Mike, Katie, and Tay talked to me about how a program like this can be a win-win

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for farmers and their local communities and how it could help set up a future market infrastructure

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that better connects local farmers and local eaters.

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Katie started our conversation by describing the program and Tay explained how farmers

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get signed up to participate.

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LFPA is a local food purchase assistance program.

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So as a program coming out of the USDA that DECCAP received, we work with our partners,

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Marble Seed, Wisconsin Food Hub Cooperative, and Wisconsin Farmers Union.

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So we have contracts with local producers around the state.

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This year we have 125 producers.

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We purchase food from these producers and that food goes to hunger relief organizations,

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so food pantries and food banks.

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Do you have an idea of, so how long has it been going?

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For two years, 2023 and 2024.

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Okay, so what's kind of volume are you handling through that, do you know?

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Yeah, so last year we purchased $1.8 million worth of food from local producers and this

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year, 1.8, yes, and 1.8 again this year.

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Okay, and how many producers?

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This year we had, 2024 we have 125 producers, 2023 we had 138.

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And so it's produce, is it any other, or is it just produce?

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Produce, meat, and value-added products.

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And pretty much across the state, these are farmers?

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Across the whole state of Wisconsin.

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Do other states have this program in place?

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Yep, other programs do LFPA, but they may have a different model.

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So ours is direct to farmers, so we work with farmers directly to do the purchasing and

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then they go to organizations where a lot of other LFPA programs give the money to organizations

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like food banks to then work with the farmers.

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How does this work?

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If you're a farmer who's signed up through this thing, what are some of the steps for

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them to actually get paid through this and all of that?

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Yeah, so we put out an application in the fall just for farmers to apply and explain

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a little bit about their farm and what they're interested in offering, and then we make the

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selection process.

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We prioritize working with historically underserved farmers, getting an idea of what their farm

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can offer the program.

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Then we move to accept applications.

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This year it was in December, and then start the contracting process.

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So we identified how much acreage they have, what they're growing to determine a contract

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amount.

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Contracts ranged from $5,000 to $25,000 in 2024.

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And then there's an onboarding process.

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So we have a meeting for the farmers for wholesale readiness and onboarding into the program

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to explain the payment process, to explain how to move towards more of a wholesale model

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on their farm.

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We work with a lot of farmers that are either farming for farmers markets or CSA.

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So it is a little bit a different model for them to sell.

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So we do some training around packaging in cases, packing to spec, so they can build

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their wholesale capacity.

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And then they're responsible for transportation, aggregation, that kind of thing?

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So we work with the Wisconsin Food Hub Cooperative where they have money in this program to move

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product around the state, which is super beneficial to the farmer.

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Anytime a truck can pull up right to the farm and load up and take it, it takes that pressure

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off the farmer and it's a huge win-win.

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We also work with some farms where there's some connections with food pantries and farms

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will, the food pantry will pick up directly from the farm.

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And that's great because it's just building connections, you know, for if in the future

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they can work more closely together.

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We've had really success with Hunger Task Force in Milwaukee.

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They've been able to purchase outside of the LFPA programs and work with the farmers in

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the LFPA program to just sell more of their products.

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So it's been hugely beneficial that way.

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So I'm sorry, how many farmers or producers did you say that you worked with?

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Yeah, 125 this year and 138 last year.

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So and 1.8 million was kind of the purchasing.

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So that's a pretty, you know, that's local.

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And I guess one thing, Mike, I know you were just talking about that, that for you maybe

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describe your kind of how you've been associated with this program.

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And you have, you really, you said this is really something that you've seen some economic

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returns on it immediately and in the community a little bit.

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Correct.

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I mean, our spend now has been for two years with this program.

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And we provide into a local food bank, we were able to hire, we hire 14 high school

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and college kids that are local to us.

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And that money stays local to our area.

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It allowed us to hire a few more of those kids of that 14 and probably allowed us to

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hire four or five more for the sales that we're going to have for this program.

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And then the food itself stays local food bank that we provide into, I believe it's

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32 different food pantries that they provide produce to.

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So it's hitting Polk, St. Croix, Pierce, Pepin counties.

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So it stays local.

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The money spent from the state stays local to our area.

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And the produce stays local to our area to help the underserved and needy people that

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really need good quality produce.

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And you've always emphasized your CSA serves mostly a rural kind of it's not you're not

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going serving a big twins cities market or an urban market because you really feel like

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that's where that food that people in rural areas need to eat good food as well.

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Correct.

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Jody and I started our farm with the idea that people in the rural community need good

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food too.

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And we focused on providing our food locally to us, not going deep into the cities for

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shares.

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I think we cross the river and a few shares in Stillwater and then the bulk of our shares

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are in St. Croix County.

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Do you have a rough idea what economic differences made to your farm?

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Have you been involved with both years?

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Yeah, like I said, it's allowed for us it's allowed us I know for at least four people

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that we've hired extra to our farm because of this program to help bring in the produce

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and take care of it.

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And it's helped us as farmers because we've made the contracts in the fall, unlike CSA,

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the contract cracks there for this and we know we'll have that sale.

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Whereas CSA we don't know what our total sale is until May, sometimes June when we start

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our deliveries.

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That's a super good point you're able to because that's part of the reason I think I've talked

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to you guys before about your CSA that was what drew to you is you can plan ahead.

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So that spring time and late winter is a way to plan ahead what you're going to have to

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produce and and what kind of market but this is pushing it even further.

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With the fall.

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Correct, correct in allowing us to budget for employees for the for the kids that we

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hire and the adults that we hire that are local to our area.

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It's just a wonderful program, the good produce fresh produce going to people that want it

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and wait for it to come in.

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Right.

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So Rodrigo, you've kind of had a transition you you were maybe talk a little bit about

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the transition on this farm you were focused completely on produce, you've tried CSA, you've

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tried different marketing models.

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Can you describe a little bit give a little background on kind of where you're at and

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where you're at today a little bit.

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We started this farm in 2008 and we really at the beginning we really focused on produce.

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We at the beginning we we grow 60 70 different things but few years later we try we try as

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the CSA for three years don't work for us then we just focus on wholesale on produce

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then we have issues with climate change we get black rot and alternative in the ground

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so then we we losing money a few years.

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Right now we have a diverse farm we grow produce and we raise chickens, sheep and hogs.

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I mean we see an economical impact in our farm in a positive way because we we we make

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money that way and I think we try to simplify our operation just focus on chickens and I

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think we have some connection with other companies and I think it's working it's working okay.

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It sounds like the livestock's helped improve the soil health a little bit too it was pretty

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worn out when you came here.

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Yes a lot I mean we have few years we don't get I mean we don't buy any fertilizer so

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we get every everything we need on farm so for us try to figure it out between food safety

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and soil health and marketing development and I think it's very good for our farm.

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So you're involved with the LFPA as well correct?

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Can you describe a little bit how that's working for you what are you marketing through that

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and how that's kind of working?

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I mean markets marketing process for farms is very difficult I mean it's no matter what

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kind of culture are the farmers but markets are tough so if we have more programs like

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this I mean it's going to be even beneficial for the farmers I mean we need to encourage

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the government to put more money on these kind of programs so that way more farmers

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they can stay on the farms.

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So how what are you marketing through LFPA right now and have you been doing it the last

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two years as well?

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Two years.

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Okay.

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Last year we sold produce tomatoes peppers winter squash onions and this year we're

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going to we're going to sell pork too.

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And is it are they coming to pick it up is that how that's working so that must be huge.

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It helped me in many different ways try to figure it out about insurance about places

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where we can butcher or hogs and all the helping us coordinate the shipments the people who

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are going to pick it up the produce the time it's calls back and forth and really for farmers

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is very beneficial these kind of programs for the succeed of the farms.

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And do you have a rough idea of what economic differences made for you in the last couple

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years?

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Yes, it's way easier to try to focus on the production side instead to try to grow the

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things or raise the things and then delivery and focus on all different stages on the production.

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No it's for us for farmers is really really beneficial just to stay in the farm focus

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on the production and then we can increase our production that way.

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Have you increased production certain things because of the program?

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Yes.

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Yes.

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I mean last year they they buy 15,000 for us this year they're gonna buy 15,000 too.

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So they they yeah this this year they're gonna get pork from us so we have more options to

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sell our produce and or livestock.

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So what percentage of your overall farm income would do you know roughly would that represent?

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I think it's 20 percent.

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And you don't have to worry about shipping it you know aggregating and all that?

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Yeah everything is contracted everything is signed it so the only thing what we need to

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worry is to do to produce that.

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I've seen you speak a couple times and I know one thing you really emphasize and I know

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you work with the Latino Economic Development Center where you talk to farmers I think all

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across the country and in different areas and you really know how to push the pencil

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on numbers.

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You're like don't do farming unless you can make it pay.

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So this must be part I know this isn't your this must be part of a kind of a array of

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things you're trying to to really make this pay and because I know you you're willing

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to drop an enterprise when it's not paying its way and that kind of thing.

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Yes.

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I mean the only way to keep farmer in the ground is to to make money.

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If we don't make enough money what we're gonna do this we can find another thing to do.

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So for me it's very important to to teaching the farmers or to let the farmers like if

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you don't make enough money on this product don't do it.

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I mean that's the only way to keep the happiest on the farms the farmers on the farms.

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Do you guys want to talk about kind of the future of the program or?

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As of right now the program will be ending June 2025 but as organizations we are definitely

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trying to find different outlets and continue on working trying to find different funding

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for the program to keep it going because it's such a great program.

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But right now it's just providing our producers and partners with resources that they can

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use in the future to build these markets and continue what they do.

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What would you if anybody has any suggestions for if someone is looking at a program getting

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a program like this started do you have any suggestions on how to get something like this

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going or I mean I know that this is USDA funded but if there was different funding I don't

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know you think about that?

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I would say you know for food banks to look at what they have available and I know it's

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very difficult they're operating on very small budgets and they're trying to get as much

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food as possible out to people but fundraising around this effort of local food to local

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families I think can be super beneficial and just get the now that this program's existed

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and it's been for two years we can show the accomplishments we can show that we've moved

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a ton of produce around the state and meat and tortillas and you know canned goods and

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pickled goods and we can show that it's been all across the state that it's benefited producers.

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Producers have dropped farmers markets because they've moved into this model and you know

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that's just more time on the farm and that's what we have to do as a state as a country

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as the globe right now is make it easier for farmers to farm.

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So you know continue I think we can show the success of this program we can show that you

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know purchasing local is beneficial for food banks it's just getting them the money and

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you know the easiest way to do that is to run it through a program like this but if

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they can fundraise around that effort if they can I've seen innovative models from CSA farms

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that have asked their customers to donate and then they've been able to donate extra

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boxes to food pantries and just you know kind of build out their marketing that way but

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just to get the customers their customers involved in supporting farm to food access

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I think can be very beneficial.

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I would think just hearing you guys talk about this that there are these side economic benefits

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in that drivers people who have to sort the food who have to process it if it's meat or

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whatever that there's all these side economic is that something you guys have been able

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to kind of toad up a little bit or is that still something you're trying to figure out

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is just kind of how much of an economic benefit the side kind of the things that are the people

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don't think about but you got to have that if you're going to have any kind of a local

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food system kind of thing.

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Yeah I don't think we've done really part of this program is we're doing evaluation

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and we're going to be presenting these results so I think we'll try to gather some of that

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but it's it's so true that agriculture has gone through so much consolidation and the

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more we can have more enterprises doing this work the easier it is for farmers and the

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more economic opportunity there is for the rural areas across the state so I think that's

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huge that's a that's a another great thing that we've done in this program and looking

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forward to looking at those results and sharing that.

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It just seems like a real rural economic argument to me.

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I had one last question about if you somebody could explain what the it's called the Wisconsin

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Food Hub is what is is that a nonprofit or what is that entity or somebody can describe

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that a little bit.

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Yeah so it's a it's a cooperative so they have a board of directors started with some

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farmers getting started up there they have routes across the state they work with other

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aggregators as well and you know they don't bring food back necessarily and hold it for

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a long time it's kind of coming in and then going out the door so it's been a huge huge

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benefit to the program to have them picking up from the farmers and you know they're working

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within other programs too like local local food to school and then they have some other

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larger accounts that they're they're moving product through as well but just a great opportunity

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for for small to mid-sized farms to to use their organization.

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One one last question I always say one last question and I always think for Rodrigo and

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Mike I'm gonna ask the same question I guess farming is really tough I mean just it goes

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without saying and the economics don't get any any easier is a program like this that

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kind of I guess is getting good food to local people and is is not just it is also returning

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economic benefit to the community does that give you hope I mean that kind of if there's

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people who are thinking about this kind of thing in that big picture way of how farming

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can be this rural economic engine that's not just a thousand acres of corn and beans kind

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of thing and how it can then benefit people who are actually eating you know and in the

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rural community and maybe don't always have access to healthy food I mean does that give

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you a little bit of a little bit of hope I guess?

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Gives me a lot of hope actually the idea that people can access good local produce at a

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fair price that was part of the contracting thing is we work together to set our price

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so we got a very fair equitable price for our produce and the shipping all of the pieces

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that we've talked about today help build and strengthen our food systems in this country

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the fewer and fewer people making food the bigger and bigger the problem is going to

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be we want more people producing food locally not less.

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Rodrigo when you say words like black rot I think oh my gosh farming is really tough

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but yeah you've had you you really are committed to farming I know you've really duked it

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out here on the farm and you talked to a lot of farmers about some of the challenges out

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there but you apparently believe in it but does this give you a hope a little bit of

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a program like this?

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Yes when we see I mean how much this government subsidy give subsidies for corn and soybean

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growers I mean they need to put more money on people who grow food I mean it's for the

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benefit of not just the farmer the community and in rural communities it's very difficult

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to get really healthy food and we have a lack of that so we need to find a way to help in

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I mean low-income families to get access to organic food natural food so if we have those

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win-wins with these programs we need to focus on those on those kind of things.

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That's a really good point I'm glad you brought up the corn and soybeans it's like why is

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money going to this well look how much has gone into that.

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I will tell my neighbors when we're sitting around you walk a mile in your fields and

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I'll walk a mile in my field and we'll see who starves first.

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People they need to understand I mean with COVID with COVID-19 we have a really a little

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bit of what can happen yes if we don't figure it out what can be in the future COVID just

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give us like a teaspoon of what it can be in the future if we are not prepared so that

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thing give us space for thinking and for figuring it out and for fix that so when we talk about

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talking about the relationship with farmers and the community I mean right now is the

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time it's not tomorrow it's not next year it's now what we what we're going to do for

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fix those problems.

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For more on the local food purchase assistance program see the podcast page for ear to the

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ground episode 360 at landstewardshipproject.org.

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If you have comments or suggestions about this podcast contact Brian DeVore at bdevor

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at landstewardshipproject.org or you can call 612-816-9342.

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Thanks to Laura Borgendale, a western Minnesota musician for ear to the ground's theme music

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and a special thank you to all of Land Stewardship Project's members who make initiatives such

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Thanks for listening.

