WEBVTT

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Breaking free from the chains of the past Where

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truth moves faster than a Holstein calf No law

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waiting on some printed page We're charting new

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ground in the digital age From genomic codes

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to robot facts We cut through the noise, no hold

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them back not your daddy's dairy news tonight

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we're sparking Welcome back to the Bullvine Podcast,

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where we cut through the dairy industry noise

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to get you the insights that actually matter

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for your operation. If you're tired of the fluff

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and just want the hard numbers, you are in the

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right place. And today we are doing something

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a little bit different. Usually we're digging

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into a genetics report or a new piece of tech.

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But today we're essentially looking at a crime

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scene. A crime scene. Yeah. That is. That's a

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dramatic way to start, even for you. Is it, though?

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I mean, honestly, when I look at the numbers

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we've got on the desk, it's not that far off.

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We're watching the slow death of a business model

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that, you know, most of our listeners have bet

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their entire lives on. OK, that's a fair point.

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I see where you're going. It's a crime scene

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because we're dissecting what we call the volume

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trap. And we've got two stacks of paper here.

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In this hand, I've got the USDA numbers for 2026,

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the North American reality. And in this hand,

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there's a feature piece called gold medal margins.

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The Italian Value Model for Dairy Profits. And

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that title alone, I think, is going to make some

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people uncomfortable. The Italian Value Model.

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It sounds like something you'd buy at a boutique,

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not something you'd run a farm on. I love this

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topic, though. The timing is just perfect. Because

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right now, the eyes of the whole world are turning

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toward the Milano -Cortina region in Italy for

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the Winter Olympics. Everyone's watching these

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athletes chase gold medals. Right, but while

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those skiers are flying down the slopes, the

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dairy farmers in that exact same region, I mean

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literally in the valleys right below the ski

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runs, they're winning a completely different

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game. They are pulling in 22 .8 billion euros

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from less milk. From less milk. Well, farmers

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over here are stuck on what I always call the

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hamster wheel of more cows, thinner checks. Well,

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today we're cutting through all that noise. I

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was looking at the February WASDE numbers. And

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let me tell you, the math isn't math -in for

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a lot of operations right now. It really, really

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isn't. So today's deep dive is a direct comparison.

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We're putting the U .S. and Canadian volume first

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model in the ring against the Italian value added

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model, specifically looking at the Parmigiano

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-Reggiano and Grana Padano zones. OK, so let's

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set the stage a little bit before we get into

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the heavy hitting. Why does this matter right

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now? Because I think a lot of listeners are looking

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at their milk checks and feeling a little bit.

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I don't know, gaslit. Is that the right word?

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That is absolutely the right word. Look at the

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context. The USDA February WASDE projection just

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came out. They're pegging the 2026 all milk price

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at what? $18 .95 per hundredweight? $18 .95.

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Okay. I can almost hear the collective groan

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from every tractor cab listening to this right

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now. But here's the kicker. This is the part

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that really gets me. We pulled the analysis from

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the bullvine and we looked at the farm doc data

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out of Illinois. The full cost break games. And

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I mean, full cost, you know. So not just a feed

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bill. No, no. We're talking living expenses,

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paying family labor, a real market rate, debt

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service, replacing that worn out skid steer that's

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on its last legs. All of it. All of it. Those

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break homes are sitting somewhere between 1950

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and 2050 per hundred weight. So do the math for

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me. If I'm a standard midsize herd, let's say

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250 cows, and I'm hitting the midpoint of that

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break -even range. You are staring down a projected

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loss of roughly $63 ,000 for the year 2026. Wow.

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And that's if everything goes right, you know?

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That's if the weather holds, the cows breed back

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on the first try, and nothing major breaks down.

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That's a lot of red ink. It's basically a full

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-time job that costs you money to keep. And the

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craziest part is the industry's response to this

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seems to be just expand. The U .S. herd is projected

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to be up another 211 ,000 cows in 2025. Exactly.

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Margins are getting thinner, so the advice is

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add more cows to try and make up the difference

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on volume. It is the classic definition of the

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volume trap. It's running faster and faster just

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to stay in the exact same place. And that is

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precisely why. This Italian comparison is so

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fascinating because everyone in North America

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thinks the only answer is get big or get out.

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But today we are going to look at a country where

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the number of dairy farms actually increased

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because they figured out how to make small scale

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pay. And we have to touch on the Canadian paradox,

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too, because our friends to the north, they have

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the quota, they have the scarcity, but they aren't

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seeing that massive premium in the same way.

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It's a different animal. All right, let's get

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into it. Segment one, let's really define this

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volume trap. We've got to identify the problem

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before we can even think about fixing it. You

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mentioned the hamster wheel. Yeah. So lay out

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the U .S. data for us. What are we looking at

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for 2026 production? It's just, it's still climbing.

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We're looking at production hitting 234 .1 billion

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pounds in 2026. I mean, we are just flooding

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the world of milk. But the income overfeed costs

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are tightening. They're squeezing down to around

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$11 .40 per hundredweight. And, you know, the

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usual argument here is, well, the big guys are

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fine. The mega dairies are efficient. It's just

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the small farms that are hurting. That's the

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myth. That is the lie we tell ourselves to sleep

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at night. But look at the USDA's cost of production

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data. Even the so -called efficiency kings, you

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know, the herds with 2 ,000 plus cows, the guys

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with the rotaries and perfect feed efficiency,

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their full economic cost is $19 .14 per hundredweight.

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Wait, hang on, stop right there. So if the projected

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price from the USDA is $18 .95. Even the 2 ,000

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cow herds are barely breaking even. On a full

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economic basis, they are technically underwater.

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So they might be cash flowing. Oh, yeah, they're

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cash flowing. But are they generating a true

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economic profit? Are they actually building wealth

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or are they just treading water? The numbers

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say they're treading water. That is just wild.

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It basically means the entire industry from the

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50 cow tea stall to the 5000 cow mega dairy in

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Idaho is operating on these razor thin, almost

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non -existent margins. And the volatility is

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the other thing that just kills you. Oh, absolutely.

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The price dropped from 1925 in November. down

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to 1825 in January, and now it's bounced back

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to 1895 in February. For an average family farm,

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that's a $70 ,000 whipsaw over just four months.

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You can't budget on a roller coaster like that.

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How do you plan an expansion or even just a simple

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renovation when your revenue line looks like

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an EKG readout? It's impossible. And this brings

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up that whole concept of phantom profitability.

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I think a lot of farmers, you know, they might

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look at their checkbook and say, hey, there's

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money in the account. I'm OK. Right. They see

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a positive balance and they think they're winning.

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But are they actually covering depreciation?

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Are they putting money aside to replace assets?

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Are they paying themselves a market wage for

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their labor and management? Usually the answer

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to all of those is no. Exactly. They are eating

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their equity just to stay in business. They're

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cannibalizing the farm to keep the farm going.

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It's like burning the furniture to heat the house.

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Eventually you're going to run out of chairs.

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Exactly. And that is the crime scene. Okay, so

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that's the gloom and doom. Now let's pivot and

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look at the gold medal data, the Italian contrast.

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Because this article claims they are winning

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by doing the absolute opposite of what we're

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doing. The numbers are staggering. In Italy,

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the dairy industry revenue grew at a 1 .5 % compound

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annual growth rate from 2020 to 2025. But here's

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the key part. Milk volume dropped by 0 .7%. Revenue

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up, volume down. That is the holy grail. That's

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the definition of working smarter, not harder.

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It is. And get this. The number of Italian dairy

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businesses actually increased during that time

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to about 4 ,043. That never happens. When was

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the last time you heard of the number of dairy

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farms actually going up in a developed nation?

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Never. The story is always consolidation, consolidation,

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consolidation. You hear about farms selling out

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every single week. Not new ones starting up.

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Right. But the heavy hitter here, the real powerhouse,

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is Parmigiano -Reggiano. The turnover for that

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consortium alone hit 3 .2 billion euros in 2024.

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Okay, I have to play skeptic for a second here.

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Go for it. Because I know what some of our listeners,

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especially the hard -nosed economists, are thinking.

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It's Italy. It's romantic. It's all about tourism.

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Is this just because tourists want to eat fancy

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cheese while they're on vacation in Rome? Is

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this some kind of Mickey Mouse economy based

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on people taking selfies with a wheel of cheese?

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That's a fair question, and I expected you to

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push back on that. It's the obvious first thought,

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but the data says no. It's not just tourism.

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Not even close. Look at the exports. Italian

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cheese export volume was up 2 .2%, which is,

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you know, it's decent. Okay, pretty good. But

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the value of those exports, up 20 .4%. Whoa.

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Okay, so they're selling just a little bit more

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cheese, but for a whole lot more money. Precisely.

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The U .S. alone bought 16 ,000 tons of it in

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2024, which was up 13 .4%. This isn't just people

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eating cheese in Venice. This is a structural

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price premium that travels across the ocean.

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A consumer in Chicago or Tokyo is walking past

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the local commodity cheddar and paying double

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for that Italian seal of authenticity. So what

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they've really done is decommoditize their milk.

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They aren't selling milk as a fluid commodity

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anymore. They're selling... Something else entirely.

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100%. They're selling heritage, they're selling

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a specific guaranteed quality, and they're selling

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scarcity. Okay, let's follow the money then.

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How does this premium actually stick? How does

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it get from the consumer in Chicago back to the

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farmer in Italy? Because usually if a product

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gets that expensive, someone undercuts you. or

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the market floods with cheap knockoffs. If I

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start selling hay for 400 bucks a ton, my neighbor

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starts selling it for 350. Right. And the article

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breaks it down into these three core pillars.

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And this is really the playbook. First, you have

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geographic scarcity. That's the PDO, the protected

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designation of origin. Right. So you legally

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cannot make something and call it Parmigiano

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-Reggiano unless your cows are in that specific

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region of Italy eating that specific forage.

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Correct. It's not just a brand name. It's enshrined

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in European law. It creates a legal monopoly

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on the name and the process. And the data on

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this is incredible. PDO products, on average,

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get a 2 .23 times value premium over non -GI

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products. So more than double the value. Just

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for having that geographic seal. Just for that.

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But it's not just about drawing a circle on a

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map, right? You can't just do that and expect

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money to fall from the sky. Right. There has

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to be organization behind it. And that's pillar

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number two, the consortiums. The Parmigiano Consortium

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has a budget of 51 .5 million euros. 51 .5 million.

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That is a massive war chest that's bigger than

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the GDP of some small island nations. They are

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the marketing department. An individual farmer

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doesn't have to worry about branding their milk

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because the consortium is doing it at a global

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scale. They're the ones fighting the legal battles

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against copycats, running the TV ads, and sending

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inspectors out to check the quality on every

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farm. And the third pillar. This is the one that

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really hurts when you compare it to the U .S.

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system. It's the link. There's direct link. Farmgate

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prices in Italy rise when the price of the cheese

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rises. Okay, let's really unpack this. Because

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in the U .S. we have the FMMO. the federal milk

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marketing orders. And frankly, most farmers need

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a PhD just to understand their own milk check.

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It's intentionally complex. Oh, it is. In the

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U .S., we pool it. My high -component milk from

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my Jersey herd gets dumped into the same pool

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as my neighbor's lower -component Holstein milk.

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It all becomes generic. And even if the price

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of cheddar cheese on the CME skyrockets, the

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processor is guaranteed what's called a make

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allowance. And by the way, that make allowance

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is set to rise to over 25 cents a pound in June

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2025. Stop right there. Explain make allowance

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to me like I'm five years old. Why does that

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specific thing matter so much to a farmer's bottom

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line? Okay, simple analogy. Think of a pizza.

00:12:54.820 --> 00:12:56.960
The processor, the guy making the cheese, gets

00:12:56.960 --> 00:12:59.320
to eat his slices of the pizza first. The government

00:12:59.320 --> 00:13:01.480
guarantees him enough slices to cover all his

00:13:01.480 --> 00:13:04.059
costs. The boiler, the labor, the packaging,

00:13:04.279 --> 00:13:06.720
that guaranteed portion is the make allowance.

00:13:07.080 --> 00:13:09.139
Okay, so he's always fed. He always eats first.

00:13:09.629 --> 00:13:11.529
If the pizza gets smaller because the market

00:13:11.529 --> 00:13:14.230
price drops, the processor still gets his guaranteed

00:13:14.230 --> 00:13:17.730
number of slices. So, who starves? The farmer.

00:13:17.870 --> 00:13:20.289
The farmer gets whatever crusts and crumbs are

00:13:20.289 --> 00:13:23.570
left over. The U .S. system, deliberately, by

00:13:23.570 --> 00:13:26.370
design, severs the link between my specific milk

00:13:26.370 --> 00:13:29.490
quality and the end product's value. The processor

00:13:29.490 --> 00:13:32.590
is insulated from risk. The farmer is completely

00:13:32.590 --> 00:13:34.940
exposed to it. That is the crucial difference.

00:13:35.139 --> 00:13:38.179
In Italy, if Parmigiano is selling for 13 euros

00:13:38.179 --> 00:13:40.879
a kilo, the farmer sees that money flow back

00:13:40.879 --> 00:13:43.429
to them. In the U .S., if cheto prices go up,

00:13:43.490 --> 00:13:45.830
the processor covers their guaranteed margin,

00:13:45.990 --> 00:13:48.610
and the farmer gets, well, whatever the complicated

00:13:48.610 --> 00:13:50.850
FMMO formula spits out at the end of the month.

00:13:51.049 --> 00:13:53.690
Exactly. We are incentivized to produce generic

00:13:53.690 --> 00:13:56.409
white fluid at the lowest possible cost. They

00:13:56.409 --> 00:13:58.889
are incentivized to produce a very specific ingredient

00:13:58.889 --> 00:14:02.129
for a luxury product. In Italy, the farmer and

00:14:02.129 --> 00:14:03.889
the cheesemaker are in the same boat, rowing

00:14:03.889 --> 00:14:06.450
in the same direction. In the U .S., the cheesemaker

00:14:06.450 --> 00:14:08.649
is on a yacht, and the farmer is swimming behind

00:14:08.649 --> 00:14:11.440
it, trying not to drown. Okay, so we can't all

00:14:11.440 --> 00:14:13.799
just pack up and move to Italy. I mean, the pasta

00:14:13.799 --> 00:14:15.679
is great, but the commute would be terrible.

00:14:16.159 --> 00:14:18.519
So let's talk about some case studies and examples

00:14:18.519 --> 00:14:21.299
that are closer to home. What about North American

00:14:21.299 --> 00:14:24.500
attempts at this value -added model? There are

00:14:24.500 --> 00:14:26.480
some really bright spots, for sure, but they

00:14:26.480 --> 00:14:29.080
all come with some pretty big caveats. Let's

00:14:29.080 --> 00:14:32.700
take Jasper Hill Farm in Vermont. A legend. If

00:14:32.700 --> 00:14:34.299
you're into cheese, you know the name Jasper

00:14:34.299 --> 00:14:37.139
Hill. Absolutely. And they pay their partner

00:14:37.139 --> 00:14:39.639
farms roughly three times the commodity price

00:14:39.639 --> 00:14:42.580
for their milk. Three times. That's not just

00:14:42.580 --> 00:14:44.179
a little better. That's life -changing money.

00:14:44.399 --> 00:14:47.399
It is. Mateo Keller, one of the founders, has

00:14:47.399 --> 00:14:49.240
said that a family can make a good living with

00:14:49.240 --> 00:14:52.179
25 to 30 cows under their model. Think about

00:14:52.179 --> 00:14:54.860
that. 25 cows supporting a family in the year

00:14:54.860 --> 00:14:59.159
2026. That sounds like a dream. It does. But,

00:14:59.320 --> 00:15:02.080
and there's always a but. Here it comes. It took

00:15:02.080 --> 00:15:04.320
them 20 years to build that brand and that infrastructure.

00:15:04.620 --> 00:15:07.019
They have a massive debt load from building their

00:15:07.019 --> 00:15:09.320
aging caves. And here's the really wild part.

00:15:09.620 --> 00:15:11.820
They have a housing crisis for their employees

00:15:11.820 --> 00:15:14.639
because Vermont is so full of second homes owned

00:15:14.639 --> 00:15:17.419
by people from New York and Boston. Kaler has

00:15:17.419 --> 00:15:20.120
had to personally buy 11 properties just to have

00:15:20.120 --> 00:15:22.720
places for his staff to live. So it's not just

00:15:22.720 --> 00:15:25.879
make good cheese and get rich. It's... build

00:15:25.879 --> 00:15:28.080
a massive multi -million dollar infrastructure,

00:15:28.639 --> 00:15:31.879
take on huge personal risk, and then also become

00:15:31.879 --> 00:15:34.580
a real estate mogul and property manager on the

00:15:34.580 --> 00:15:36.639
side. Right. It's an incredibly high barrier

00:15:36.639 --> 00:15:38.519
to entry. And then you've got Uplands Cheese

00:15:38.519 --> 00:15:40.980
in Wisconsin, another fantastic example. Same

00:15:40.980 --> 00:15:44.000
deal. Their wholesale price is four times commodity

00:15:44.000 --> 00:15:46.480
cheddar. We're talking $10 a pound versus $2

00:15:46.480 --> 00:15:48.919
.50. But they're extremely seasonal, right? Pasture

00:15:48.919 --> 00:15:51.299
only, which means limited volume. You can't just

00:15:51.299 --> 00:15:53.279
scale that up to feed the world. You can't graze

00:15:53.279 --> 00:15:56.059
cows in three feet of Wisconsin snow in January.

00:15:56.139 --> 00:15:59.279
It's a niche, not a national solution. Okay,

00:15:59.340 --> 00:16:01.120
now here's where I want to bring up the contrarian

00:16:01.120 --> 00:16:04.019
take, the Canadian paradox, because you and I

00:16:04.019 --> 00:16:06.840
talk about this a lot. Canada has supply management.

00:16:06.980 --> 00:16:10.200
They have quotas. Isn't that by definition organized

00:16:10.200 --> 00:16:13.100
scarcity? Isn't that basically what the Italians

00:16:13.100 --> 00:16:15.379
are doing? You would think so. I mean, on the

00:16:15.379 --> 00:16:17.759
surface, it's the same foundational principle

00:16:17.759 --> 00:16:21.399
as the PDO. Limit the supply to match the demand

00:16:21.399 --> 00:16:24.679
to support the price. But the outcome and the

00:16:24.679 --> 00:16:27.440
philosophy behind it are totally different. How

00:16:27.440 --> 00:16:30.799
so? Why aren't Canadian dairy farmers all driving

00:16:30.799 --> 00:16:34.139
Ferraris? Because Canada has scarcity for stability.

00:16:34.659 --> 00:16:37.580
Italy has scarcity for value. Okay, that's a

00:16:37.580 --> 00:16:39.419
cute distinction. Walk me through what that means

00:16:39.419 --> 00:16:41.879
on the ground. In Canada, the quota is incredibly

00:16:41.879 --> 00:16:45.379
expensive. We're talking $24 ,000 to $56 ,000

00:16:45.379 --> 00:16:48.059
per kilogram of butterfat, depending on the province.

00:16:48.419 --> 00:16:50.659
But that investment buys you the right to produce

00:16:50.659 --> 00:16:53.179
milk at a regulated floor price. It guarantees

00:16:53.179 --> 00:16:55.240
you won't lose your shirt. So it's safety net.

00:16:55.440 --> 00:16:58.139
It's a very expensive safety net. But it doesn't

00:16:58.139 --> 00:17:00.460
incentivize you to make a Mercedes -Benz product.

00:17:01.230 --> 00:17:04.549
just guarantees a decent, stable price for a

00:17:04.549 --> 00:17:06.710
Honda Civic product. It removes the downside

00:17:06.710 --> 00:17:09.210
risk, but it also caps the upside potential.

00:17:09.569 --> 00:17:12.150
It's a defensive wall, not an offensive weapon.

00:17:12.450 --> 00:17:14.750
Perfectly put. And the data shows that consolidation

00:17:14.750 --> 00:17:18.049
is still happening there too. Canadian farm numbers

00:17:18.049 --> 00:17:22.450
dropped 24 % between 2012 and 2022. It's slower

00:17:22.450 --> 00:17:25.089
than in the U .S. for sure, but the trend is

00:17:25.089 --> 00:17:27.470
exactly the same. And here's the real kicker.

00:17:27.589 --> 00:17:31.009
CETA. The trade agreement with Europe. This is

00:17:31.009 --> 00:17:34.150
where the whole paradox really bites them. Sida

00:17:34.150 --> 00:17:36.390
allowed a certain amount of European cheese to

00:17:36.390 --> 00:17:39.170
come into Canada duty -free. Right. So now the

00:17:39.170 --> 00:17:41.269
Canadian consumer walks into the grocery store.

00:17:41.450 --> 00:17:44.490
On the left, they see a block of generic Canadian

00:17:44.490 --> 00:17:46.829
cheddar produced under the protection of a quota

00:17:46.829 --> 00:17:49.950
system. On the right, they see a wedge of real

00:17:49.950 --> 00:17:52.910
Parmigiano -Reggiano protected by a powerful,

00:17:53.029 --> 00:17:55.509
world -renowned brand. Which one do you think

00:17:55.509 --> 00:17:56.789
they're buying for their dinner party? They're

00:17:56.789 --> 00:17:58.859
buying the brand. They're buying the story. Every

00:17:58.859 --> 00:18:01.420
time. So Canadian farmers are losing market share

00:18:01.420 --> 00:18:03.180
inside their own fortress because they have the

00:18:03.180 --> 00:18:05.619
scarcity, but they don't have the value proposition

00:18:05.619 --> 00:18:08.180
to go with it. It's so ironic. The European cheese

00:18:08.180 --> 00:18:10.880
is winning in the protected Canadian market because

00:18:10.880 --> 00:18:14.579
of its brand, while the Canadian milk is just

00:18:14.579 --> 00:18:18.859
milk. Exactly. And look, there are amazing outliers

00:18:18.859 --> 00:18:21.799
like Gunshill in Ontario who are doing incredible

00:18:21.799 --> 00:18:25.220
work with artisanal cheese, but they are succeeding.

00:18:25.960 --> 00:18:28.160
despite the system or around the edges of it,

00:18:28.259 --> 00:18:30.420
not because the system is designed to create

00:18:30.420 --> 00:18:34.079
a thousand guns hills. So, okay, we've identified

00:18:34.079 --> 00:18:36.160
the problem, this hamster wheel of volume. We've

00:18:36.160 --> 00:18:38.279
seen the promised land in Italy. We've seen the

00:18:38.279 --> 00:18:40.000
difficulties of trying to replicate it here.

00:18:40.279 --> 00:18:42.500
Let's talk about the future implications. The

00:18:42.500 --> 00:18:45.339
article outlines four distinct paths forward.

00:18:45.480 --> 00:18:48.259
And I like this because it's practical. It acknowledges

00:18:48.259 --> 00:18:49.960
that not everyone can just go out and build a

00:18:49.960 --> 00:18:51.920
cheese plant tomorrow. Yeah, we need solutions

00:18:51.920 --> 00:18:53.460
for the guy who isn't going to become a full

00:18:53.460 --> 00:18:55.730
-time cheesemaker. Let's break them down. Path

00:18:55.730 --> 00:18:58.910
number one, component optimization. The article

00:18:58.910 --> 00:19:01.490
calls this the band -aid. This is the low -hanging

00:19:01.490 --> 00:19:04.019
fruit. This is what every nutritionist and consultant

00:19:04.019 --> 00:19:06.359
tells you to do. Get your protein up. Get your

00:19:06.359 --> 00:19:09.599
fat up. The math shows that raising protein from,

00:19:09.619 --> 00:19:14.240
say, a 3 -1 to a 3 -4 for a 200 -cow herd, that's

00:19:14.240 --> 00:19:18.980
maybe an extra $8 ,640 a year in premiums. I

00:19:18.980 --> 00:19:20.960
mean, $8 ,000 is $8 ,000. That'll pay the electric

00:19:20.960 --> 00:19:22.980
bill for a month or two. But when you break it

00:19:22.980 --> 00:19:25.660
down per hundredweight, that's barely 18 cents.

00:19:26.460 --> 00:19:29.500
If your breaking gap is $1 .50 like we established

00:19:29.500 --> 00:19:32.019
at the beginning, earning an extra 18 cents is

00:19:32.019 --> 00:19:34.759
nice, but it doesn't solve the structural problem.

00:19:34.980 --> 00:19:36.940
It's like finding some change in the couch cushions

00:19:36.940 --> 00:19:38.380
when you're trying to pay the mortgage. It's

00:19:38.380 --> 00:19:40.220
exactly that. You should absolutely do it. Don't

00:19:40.220 --> 00:19:42.259
get me wrong. But don't fool yourself into thinking

00:19:42.259 --> 00:19:46.519
it saves the farm. Okay. Path number two. Farmstead

00:19:46.519 --> 00:19:48.950
cheese. This is what the article calls the heavy

00:19:48.950 --> 00:19:52.730
lift. This is the far move. You are looking at

00:19:52.730 --> 00:19:56.869
an investment of anywhere from $750 ,000 to $1

00:19:56.869 --> 00:20:01.109
.2 million to build a modern licensed creamery.

00:20:01.269 --> 00:20:04.069
Oof. That's a lot of zeros. That's a lot of debt.

00:20:04.269 --> 00:20:07.009
And the timeline to even break even is three

00:20:07.009 --> 00:20:09.269
to five years. You have to learn a whole new

00:20:09.269 --> 00:20:12.119
trade. You're not just a farmer anymore. Suddenly

00:20:12.119 --> 00:20:16.500
you're a manufacturer, a marketer, a food safety

00:20:16.500 --> 00:20:19.539
expert, a brand manager. So you need incredibly

00:20:19.539 --> 00:20:22.500
deep pockets just to get in the game. And you

00:20:22.500 --> 00:20:25.220
need a high tolerance for risk. The data shows

00:20:25.220 --> 00:20:28.599
that 24 % of artisan cheesemakers in the U .S.

00:20:28.599 --> 00:20:31.740
gross under $50 ,000 a year. So just because

00:20:31.740 --> 00:20:33.819
you build it doesn't mean they'll come. Not at

00:20:33.819 --> 00:20:36.390
all. If you make bad cheese, you just have a

00:20:36.390 --> 00:20:38.690
very, very expensive pile of waste that you're

00:20:38.690 --> 00:20:40.829
paying interest on. It's a huge gamble. All right.

00:20:40.829 --> 00:20:43.690
That one's scary. What about path three? The

00:20:43.690 --> 00:20:46.730
collective consortium. This feels like the middle

00:20:46.730 --> 00:20:48.990
ground. This is the one that really intrigues

00:20:48.990 --> 00:20:51.410
me the most. The idea here is that instead of

00:20:51.410 --> 00:20:54.470
one farm trying to do it all, you get, say, 20

00:20:54.470 --> 00:20:56.529
farms to go in together and share the infrastructure.

00:20:56.849 --> 00:20:59.549
So instead of one farm spending $1 .2 million,

00:20:59.829 --> 00:21:02.950
you have 20 farms splitting that cost. Suddenly

00:21:02.950 --> 00:21:05.750
the investment per farm drops to maybe $60 ,000

00:21:05.750 --> 00:21:08.430
or $70 ,000. Now that is much more manageable.

00:21:08.529 --> 00:21:10.269
That's in the ballpark of a new pickup truck

00:21:10.269 --> 00:21:12.990
or a used tractor. Right. And there's actually

00:21:12.990 --> 00:21:16.369
money available for this. The USDA has $11 million

00:21:16.369 --> 00:21:20.349
in new grants as of January 2026, specifically

00:21:20.349 --> 00:21:23.930
for this kind of collective value added development.

00:21:24.109 --> 00:21:25.849
So the government is actually trying to nudge

00:21:25.849 --> 00:21:28.150
people in this direction. A little bit, yeah.

00:21:28.269 --> 00:21:30.789
But it requires farmers to work together in a

00:21:30.789 --> 00:21:33.289
way they're historically not very good at. You

00:21:33.289 --> 00:21:35.470
have to give up your individual ego for the good

00:21:35.470 --> 00:21:37.549
of the collective brand. Which is really hard

00:21:37.549 --> 00:21:40.029
for independent minded farmers. We all like to

00:21:40.029 --> 00:21:41.970
be the king of our own little castle. It's very

00:21:41.970 --> 00:21:44.710
hard. But the question is, would you rather be

00:21:44.710 --> 00:21:46.670
the king of a castle that's sinking into the

00:21:46.670 --> 00:21:49.950
swamp or a valued partner in a castle that's

00:21:49.950 --> 00:21:53.190
profitable and secure? Touche. Okay, final one.

00:21:53.250 --> 00:21:56.630
Path four. Demographic specialty. The article

00:21:56.630 --> 00:21:59.029
calls this the sleeper hit. This is the one I'm

00:21:59.029 --> 00:22:01.329
watching the closest. Specifically, Hispanic

00:22:01.329 --> 00:22:03.609
cheeses. Talk to me about the numbers here. Why

00:22:03.609 --> 00:22:05.430
is this a sleeper? Why isn't this mainstream

00:22:05.430 --> 00:22:08.450
yet? It's getting there, but the growth is explosive.

00:22:08.630 --> 00:22:11.670
It's growing anywhere from 2 to 27 times faster

00:22:11.670 --> 00:22:14.750
than mainstream cheese categories. And you just

00:22:14.750 --> 00:22:16.589
have to look at the changing demographics of

00:22:16.589 --> 00:22:19.630
North America. The Hispanic population is booming,

00:22:19.890 --> 00:22:22.710
especially in rural areas. And the beauty of

00:22:22.710 --> 00:22:25.210
a lot of these cheeses, like queso fresco, Oaxaca,

00:22:25.309 --> 00:22:27.920
panela... is that they're fresh cheeses. So you

00:22:27.920 --> 00:22:30.259
don't need a million dollar aging cave. No aging

00:22:30.259 --> 00:22:33.099
cave. No sitting on inventory for two years waiting

00:22:33.099 --> 00:22:35.140
for it to mature while you pay interest on it.

00:22:35.259 --> 00:22:37.380
You can make it on a Monday and sell it at a

00:22:37.380 --> 00:22:39.980
farmer's market on a Friday. The cash flow cycle

00:22:39.980 --> 00:22:42.779
is so much faster than waiting 24 months for

00:22:42.779 --> 00:22:45.359
a cheddar to sharp up. That is a huge, huge advantage

00:22:45.359 --> 00:22:48.140
for a small operations cash flow. Massive. And

00:22:48.140 --> 00:22:50.319
it's not just demographics. Gen Z is driving

00:22:50.319 --> 00:22:53.960
this too, right? Yeah, the data says 71 % of

00:22:53.960 --> 00:22:57.059
Gen Z consumers purchase specialty cheese. They

00:22:57.059 --> 00:22:58.960
want authenticity. They want unique flavors.

00:22:59.019 --> 00:23:01.460
They don't just want that boring orange block.

00:23:01.720 --> 00:23:04.440
So if you're located anywhere near an urban center

00:23:04.440 --> 00:23:07.400
or a community with a growing Hispanic population,

00:23:07.940 --> 00:23:10.299
this is a green light. It's a flashing green

00:23:10.299 --> 00:23:12.559
light on the dashboard. You don't need a PDO

00:23:12.559 --> 00:23:15.500
from the 1400s to make fantastic queso fresco.

00:23:15.539 --> 00:23:17.980
You just need high quality milk and to know your

00:23:17.980 --> 00:23:21.119
customer. I love that. It's so practical. Now

00:23:21.119 --> 00:23:23.220
let's get into our contrarian take section. We

00:23:23.220 --> 00:23:25.480
need to challenge some of the big industry narratives

00:23:25.480 --> 00:23:28.720
here. Let's do it. The world narrative. The big

00:23:28.720 --> 00:23:34.180
U .S. dairy lobby groups, NMPF, USDEC, they often

00:23:34.180 --> 00:23:36.980
frame these European geographic indications,

00:23:37.079 --> 00:23:39.839
these GIs, as nothing more than trade barriers.

00:23:40.079 --> 00:23:42.539
Right. They claim Europe is cheating the system.

00:23:42.680 --> 00:23:45.420
They do. The official line is that Europe is

00:23:45.420 --> 00:23:47.880
just being protectionist and unfair. How dare

00:23:47.880 --> 00:23:49.880
they tell us we can't call our mass -produced

00:23:49.880 --> 00:23:52.279
cheese Parmesan? But is it really unfair if it's

00:23:52.279 --> 00:23:54.279
working so well for their farmer? That's my whole

00:23:54.279 --> 00:23:56.279
argument. You can call it a barrier if you want.

00:23:56.319 --> 00:23:58.579
You can call it protectionism. But it's a barrier

00:23:58.579 --> 00:24:01.119
that pays farmers enough to make a profit. It

00:24:01.119 --> 00:24:03.680
results in cheese that sells for 11 euros a kilogram.

00:24:04.000 --> 00:24:07.299
So maybe, just maybe, instead of spending millions

00:24:07.299 --> 00:24:09.359
of dollars lobbying to tear down their walls,

00:24:09.480 --> 00:24:11.490
we should stop and ask, why are - we building

00:24:11.490 --> 00:24:14.150
our own walls? Why aren't we building our own

00:24:14.150 --> 00:24:16.789
value fortresses around things we do uniquely

00:24:16.789 --> 00:24:19.890
well? Why are we so obsessed with being the low

00:24:19.890 --> 00:24:22.109
-cost provider of a generic commodity for the

00:24:22.109 --> 00:24:24.970
world when the world is clearly telling us it

00:24:24.970 --> 00:24:27.049
wants to pay a premium for something special?

00:24:27.250 --> 00:24:29.690
We're trying to sell commodity volume into a

00:24:29.690 --> 00:24:32.430
world that is screaming for premium value. It's

00:24:32.430 --> 00:24:34.630
like we're bringing a knife to a gunfight. Exactly.

00:24:34.910 --> 00:24:37.750
And you don't even need a full -blown GI to see

00:24:37.750 --> 00:24:40.410
the effect. Look at the California seal program.

00:24:40.710 --> 00:24:43.329
Real California milk. It's not a strict PDO,

00:24:43.369 --> 00:24:46.210
but just having that seal of origin on the package

00:24:46.210 --> 00:24:50.430
drove a 6 .3 % sales spread over products without

00:24:50.430 --> 00:24:52.349
it. Just by putting a sticker on the package.

00:24:52.589 --> 00:24:54.809
People care where their food comes from. The

00:24:54.809 --> 00:24:57.950
data shows 56 % of consumers actively seek out

00:24:57.950 --> 00:25:01.089
authenticity seals. We are leaving so much money

00:25:01.089 --> 00:25:03.230
on the table by ignoring that fundamental desire.

00:25:03.509 --> 00:25:05.890
We are hiding the farm from the consumer and

00:25:05.890 --> 00:25:07.990
the consumer is punishing us for it at the checkout.

00:25:08.210 --> 00:25:10.660
So we've covered a ton of ground here. We've

00:25:10.660 --> 00:25:12.880
looked at the tragedy of the U .S. volume model,

00:25:13.039 --> 00:25:15.779
the triumph of the Italian volume model, and

00:25:15.779 --> 00:25:17.819
the confusing middle ground up in Canada. Yeah.

00:25:17.900 --> 00:25:19.779
But we always like to leave our listeners with

00:25:19.779 --> 00:25:21.619
something they can actually do with this information.

00:25:21.640 --> 00:25:24.079
Right. Practical steps. Because complaining about

00:25:24.079 --> 00:25:27.079
the milk price doesn't change the milk price.

00:25:27.440 --> 00:25:29.180
Action does. All right. Let's role play this.

00:25:29.299 --> 00:25:32.039
A farmer just finished the morning milking. They

00:25:32.039 --> 00:25:34.160
wiped off their boots, hopefully scraped them

00:25:34.160 --> 00:25:36.619
off first. They're driving to the feed store

00:25:36.619 --> 00:25:40.009
right now, listening to us. What are the three

00:25:40.009 --> 00:25:41.950
things they need to write on the back of a receipt

00:25:41.950 --> 00:25:46.109
right now? Okay. Grab a pen. Or open the notes

00:25:46.109 --> 00:25:49.329
app on your phone. Here we go. Number one. Something

00:25:49.329 --> 00:25:52.990
to do this week. The audit. The action is calculate

00:25:52.990 --> 00:25:56.690
your real break -even. Define real. Because I

00:25:56.690 --> 00:25:58.690
know guys who, you know, they leave certain things

00:25:58.690 --> 00:26:00.789
out to make the numbers look better. I mean,

00:26:00.789 --> 00:26:03.630
stop lying to yourself. stop cooking the books

00:26:03.630 --> 00:26:05.130
to make yourself feel better at the end of the

00:26:05.130 --> 00:26:07.930
month you have to include family labor if you

00:26:07.930 --> 00:26:10.509
got hit by a bus tomorrow and had to hire someone

00:26:10.509 --> 00:26:12.970
to do your job what would that cost put that

00:26:12.970 --> 00:26:15.720
number in the spreadsheet You have to include

00:26:15.720 --> 00:26:18.240
principal payments on your loans, not just the

00:26:18.240 --> 00:26:21.359
interest. And you have to include your family

00:26:21.359 --> 00:26:23.720
living expenses. And what do you do when you

00:26:23.720 --> 00:26:27.099
get that number and it's $20 .50? If you're sitting

00:26:27.099 --> 00:26:30.079
at $20 .50 and the market is at $18 .95, you

00:26:30.079 --> 00:26:31.619
have to look yourself in the mirror and admit

00:26:31.619 --> 00:26:33.720
that you have a structural problem. You do not

00:26:33.720 --> 00:26:36.359
have an efficiency problem. You cannot milk your

00:26:36.359 --> 00:26:39.529
way out of that hole. with more volume. You need

00:26:39.529 --> 00:26:41.589
to change the game you're playing. You need to

00:26:41.589 --> 00:26:43.809
stop thinking about expanding and start thinking

00:26:43.809 --> 00:26:46.690
about how to pivot. That is a hard truth, but

00:26:46.690 --> 00:26:49.309
a necessary one. Yeah. Okay, number two, medium

00:26:49.309 --> 00:26:52.869
term, the pivot. Let's say three to six months

00:26:52.869 --> 00:26:55.950
out. Investigate path four or path three. Start

00:26:55.950 --> 00:26:58.269
looking seriously at that demographic specialty

00:26:58.269 --> 00:27:00.730
cheese market or the consortium model. What's

00:27:00.730 --> 00:27:02.670
the specific action? Who do I call? What do I

00:27:02.670 --> 00:27:05.170
Google? Start by looking for a specialty cheese

00:27:05.170 --> 00:27:08.130
processor within 100 miles of your farm. See

00:27:08.130 --> 00:27:10.450
who's already making these products. Or better

00:27:10.450 --> 00:27:12.869
yet, go to your next co -op meeting, raise your

00:27:12.869 --> 00:27:16.400
hand, and ask the hard question. We're spending

00:27:16.400 --> 00:27:19.119
millions on new stainless steel. Are we doing

00:27:19.119 --> 00:27:21.299
anything with that investment to make high -value

00:27:21.299 --> 00:27:24.400
cheese? Or are we just building bigger tanks

00:27:24.400 --> 00:27:26.039
to hold more commodity milk that we're going

00:27:26.039 --> 00:27:28.180
to sell at a loss? Put them on the spot. I like

00:27:28.180 --> 00:27:31.619
that. And check the demographics. Google the

00:27:31.619 --> 00:27:33.819
census data for your county. Is there a growing

00:27:33.819 --> 00:27:36.599
Hispanic population nearby? That demand signal

00:27:36.599 --> 00:27:39.400
is there. If your current processor isn't seeing

00:27:39.400 --> 00:27:41.779
it, maybe you need to find one that is. Or maybe

00:27:41.779 --> 00:27:44.200
you need to find 19 of your neighbors and start

00:27:44.200 --> 00:27:46.740
that consortium yourselves. Okay. Number three,

00:27:46.920 --> 00:27:50.500
long term. Thinking one to two years out. The

00:27:50.500 --> 00:27:53.119
investment. The action is a balance sheet stress

00:27:53.119 --> 00:27:55.420
test. What does that mean in plain English? It

00:27:55.420 --> 00:27:58.220
means if you're seriously considering path to

00:27:58.220 --> 00:28:00.339
going all in on a farmstead cheese operation,

00:28:00.700 --> 00:28:03.079
you need to ask yourself a very blunt question.

00:28:03.440 --> 00:28:06.640
Do you have 42 months of working capital? 42

00:28:06.640 --> 00:28:09.670
months. That's three and a half years. That is

00:28:09.670 --> 00:28:12.349
an eternity in dairy years. That's the reality.

00:28:12.549 --> 00:28:14.710
That's how long it can take to build your inventory,

00:28:14.910 --> 00:28:17.769
build your brand, get into stores and actually

00:28:17.769 --> 00:28:20.210
get paid. If you don't have that kind of capital

00:28:20.210 --> 00:28:22.430
sitting in the bank, then you need to be looking

00:28:22.430 --> 00:28:25.750
for those USDA DBI grants. You need to be looking

00:28:25.750 --> 00:28:28.150
for outside partners. You cannot go into that

00:28:28.150 --> 00:28:31.230
kind of venture alone and undercapitalized. And

00:28:31.230 --> 00:28:33.190
I'm going to add my own take here for the long

00:28:33.190 --> 00:28:36.170
term. If you want the Italian margins. You have

00:28:36.170 --> 00:28:38.670
to be willing to accept the Italian discipline.

00:28:38.869 --> 00:28:41.869
Yes, that is the absolute key. That means accepting

00:28:41.869 --> 00:28:45.150
quality over quantity. That means potentially

00:28:45.150 --> 00:28:48.009
participating in collective marketing where you

00:28:48.009 --> 00:28:50.990
are not the star. The regional brand is the star.

00:28:51.109 --> 00:28:53.549
It means giving up a little bit of your fierce

00:28:53.549 --> 00:28:55.710
independence for a whole lot more financial security.

00:28:55.849 --> 00:28:58.160
That's the reality check right there. Italy is

00:28:58.160 --> 00:29:00.299
playing chess with branding and heritage, and

00:29:00.299 --> 00:29:02.319
we're still playing checkers with volume. And

00:29:02.319 --> 00:29:04.359
right now, the checkers board is getting flipped

00:29:04.359 --> 00:29:07.140
over every time the USDA releases a new report.

00:29:07.380 --> 00:29:10.240
It certainly feels that way sometimes. This has

00:29:10.240 --> 00:29:12.380
been a heavy one, but I actually think it's a

00:29:12.380 --> 00:29:13.759
hopeful one if you look at the opportunities.

00:29:14.099 --> 00:29:16.519
The door isn't closed. We just need to start

00:29:16.519 --> 00:29:18.099
walking through a different one. Absolutely.

00:29:18.140 --> 00:29:20.880
The money is there. The consumer wants this kind

00:29:20.880 --> 00:29:22.539
of product. We just have to build the bridge

00:29:22.539 --> 00:29:25.460
to get it to them. This has been another Bullvine

00:29:25.460 --> 00:29:28.480
podcast from The Bullvine Podcast. For more straight

00:29:28.480 --> 00:29:31.259
-talking industry analysis and to check the full

00:29:31.259 --> 00:29:33.779
math on those four paths we talked about today,

00:29:33.940 --> 00:29:38.000
head over to www .thebullvine .com. It really

00:29:38.000 --> 00:29:41.140
is the home of no BS dairy analysis. And be sure

00:29:41.140 --> 00:29:42.960
to subscribe wherever you get your podcasts.

00:29:43.380 --> 00:29:45.539
We're out with new episodes every single day.

00:29:46.160 --> 00:29:48.940
Coming up next, we're looking at why all that

00:29:48.940 --> 00:29:51.660
new stainless steel processing capacity being

00:29:51.660 --> 00:29:54.539
built might not actually save your milk check.

00:29:54.720 --> 00:29:56.759
You won't want to miss that one. Stay profitable

00:29:56.759 --> 00:29:58.200
out there. See you next time.
