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Welcome to the Gilt Trips podcast. I'm your host, Kendra Lockhart. As a goldsmith and

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gemologist, I'll be speaking 24 carat on all things jewelry, metals, and gems. Join

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me plus a few friends to demystify both materials and designs as your private jeweler. Let's

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tune in on these topics and get golden. Welcome back and in today's episode we're

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going to discuss the importance and pricelessness of a mentor. If you've

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listened to some of the earlier episodes then you're aware that it was fate that

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led me to my first mentor who did open quite the door for me. Would I have walked

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through that on my own? Probably. But it was worth everything to have somebody

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help with that first step.

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The five areas that I received mentoring in were networking, clientelling,

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strategy, education, and troubleshooting. None of these was more important than

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another and they all did come through a variety of people in the industry. The

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first area I'd like to discuss is networking. It was the tipping point from

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when I stopped being just a private jeweler and became a house designer or

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a featured artist in various boutiques, galleries, and retail establishments. The

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way that this happened wasn't me necessarily being the jeweler to the

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person who referred me. It was that I was on their mind as far as a fit and that's

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the core of networking, matchmaking in a way. I had been working part-time for

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somebody in the advertising business who had to reach out to a bunch of stores

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and see if they wanted to place an ad in her magazine accounts. In the last

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episode I mentioned Ancient Echoes. It was a gallery in the Lincoln Park

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neighborhood that was female-owned and while she was carrying fine designs

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there was nobody local who could custom make. I remember being very nervous to

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go and show my wares as they used to say. I brought a portfolio as far as

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pictures. I had a small box where I where I somewhat badly organized my pieces.

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They were samples of a bunch of different techniques so there was no rhyme or

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reason. After a few moments of her looking through my images and studying

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my work she said, where have you been? My nerves got the better of me and I

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immediately started to explain I had gone to school, downstate, my undergrad is in

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this, I've done an apprenticeship. She laughed a little and stopped me and said

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no not like that. Where have you been? You'll be an excellent fit for us. As far

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as being the house designer for the silver room originally in Wicker Park

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and then had moved down to Hyde Park in Chicago it was a friend who was

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purchasing a lot of pieces from there and said you really got to go check it

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out and make an introduction and so I did and mentioned who had sent me. We began

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discussing some of the designs that he was carrying. I asked him are you ever

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interested in modifying some of this or having your own designs and the owner

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Eric had said that's the next step for me to grow to which I said let's make

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that happen together and there were some great collaborations and most importantly

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they had somebody who had a great relationship with an urban magazine so I

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got some media coverage. With the estate collection we were both working with the

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same spiritual counselor and at some point Deborah said you know you're a

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jeweler. My other client is a jewelry store owner. How about I make a call for

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you and you go stop in and that was an excellent run. I went from being an

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appraiser to a gold buyer to her repair person and eventually a trainer for her

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staff so that she could optimize time away from the shop.

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The next mentor developed me as far as clientelling. It's one thing when you're

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minding your own business and you get asked what do you do and a conversation

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ensues and there's an organic agreement to meet up go over some designs talk

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out a project. While that can be ideal and maybe even preferred it doesn't

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always happen that way. It takes having the right conversation and when to

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present yourself as your profession and I was lucky enough to have the

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mentorship of a very quiet and introverted engraver. He said there were a

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couple ways to approach this. Where you're putting yourself, how you're

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presenting yourself and what you actually do besides the jewelry making. It was at

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that point that I realized my ideal clients were going to be off the beaten

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path. I was going to help them voice their love story in their personal rings.

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That had a lot of appeal to the alternative crowd in Chicago, other

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professional creatives and people who wanted something besides a cookie cutter

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engagement ring or wedding band. As fate would have it the people who collaborated

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the deepest with me on this idea are the ones that are still most happily married

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year after year.

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The next form of mentoring that I received was from a former employer and

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it was a beautiful relationship as far as growth because I came in as a young

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20-something with an ability to draw and had made a few projects and he spotted

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my potential. We covered strategy as far as plotting my career. It was his

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suggestion to go through a diamonds course. From there getting a certification

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in diamonds and no it wasn't through the GIA or the Gemological Institute of

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America yet. It was local, it was a weekend course and it was in person

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that was coming through Chicago. If the highest commission was paid on diamond

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sales then it would make sense that the first tool that I should have in my kit

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as far as a designer is how to speak diamonds and sell diamonds. The next step

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was continuing education and refining my drawing abilities into the style of the

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jewelry industry. So I took a countersketching course and he paid for these.

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They weren't expensive but he was investing in me and getting me more

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robust as an asset for his business and his team. And ever since then that's

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exactly how I approach the opportunity of learning something new and converting

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the return on in that investment. He was instrumental in helping me understand how

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to create educational goals, career goals, sales goals, and design goals. Working

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there my strategy became incredibly well-rounded which was a mirror

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reflection of how well-rounded I was becoming as an asset to myself and my

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industry.

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Another mentor came to me in the form of a contractor. While I was working for

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somebody else this was the one in charge of their repairs so it was a house

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account and I would go down drop things off pick things up. At some point I had

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grown into being able to be the person communicating what to do not just pickups

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and drop-offs as a courier. Now I was the repair manager. I had the eye I had the

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vocabulary and I had the experience after a certain point and being able to

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have conversations with John played into my future. Once I went out on my own I

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approached him to be my house account. There was a fondness between the two of

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us both being goldsmiths him in the middle of his career and me at the

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beginning of mine so that we could sit and quote-unquote talk shop. Sometimes he

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would show me someone else's project sometimes it would be the discussing of

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my own design and over time he developed my ability to see what could be done

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easily could be done economically and could be done incorrectly. These were

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important ways to be able to assess a client's request or your own speculative

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design before you start spending the dollars on the gold and the gems. We

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would have conversations at the idea point at the model point at the casting

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point at the setting point and at the finishing point of several projects and

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within a couple years I felt like a library of blueprints on what not to do

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that I didn't have to learn painfully or expensively or the hard way. Some of the

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things that I learned to do that they didn't teach you in school was the right

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way to block off heat when you're repairing something with a torch or when

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you're trying to set a fancy cut that may chip more easily than a round diamond

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or the best ways to fuse mixed metals and some of the more interesting tricks

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like when a drill bit breaks off inside a pearl or what to use when you need to

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unglue a stone or the best way to blacken or oxidize grooves in a piece.

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Lastly you need a mentor to help you with troubleshooting. I'm not talking what

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happens on the bench but those real uh-oh's whether they came from hubris

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or they came from naivete once you're in the ditch it's hard to get yourself out.

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The beauty of the mentor who can help you with troubleshooting is probably going

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to save you both time and money. Some of the situations that Kirk was most helpful

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with was the difficult client that you gave an inch to and is now asking for a

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mile and you just don't have the right script or you're not sure that the next

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thing you say is going to soothe or exacerbate the tension in the relationship.

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A mentor who could troubleshoot when I got robbed by my own client it's the

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mentor who can help you make sure that you've covered your ass or it's the

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person who can help you get through the red tape the bureaucracy and the legal

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aspects of doing business filing your taxes properly having the licenses that

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you need or don't need depending whether your wholesale or retail. I've been

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helped with when to leave a relationship with a vendor when to correct a

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relationship with a vendor and when it's time to have a backup or explore a new

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person as far as contracting out some of the labor for the projects that fuel my

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business and my client relationships. I like to think of this type of mentor and

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as the auditor one who's going to do the pressure test look for the cracks in how

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I'm conducting business. Help me do that stitch in time to save me nine actual

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ones. I hope you find one or many that are just as valuable as the fine master

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that I've mentioned in today's episode.

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Thank you for listening and learning with me. I would love you to share this

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project with people finding rare beauty in today's world and throughout our

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times. Until the next episode keep your own story sparkling.

