1 00:00:00,000 --> 00:00:11,340 Welcome to the Gilt Trips podcast. I'm your host, Kendra Lockhart. As a goldsmith and 2 00:00:11,340 --> 00:00:17,560 gemologist, I'll be speaking 24 carat on all things jewelry, metals, and gems. Join 3 00:00:17,560 --> 00:00:24,080 me plus a few friends to demystify both materials and designs as your private jeweler. Let's 4 00:00:24,080 --> 00:00:34,520 tune in on these topics and get golden. When I think of underdog companies in jewelry that 5 00:00:34,520 --> 00:00:43,280 would cross markets and gain coveted collaborations, only one name comes to mind. Chrome Hearts. 6 00:00:43,280 --> 00:00:51,080 Founded in California in 1988 by three men with backgrounds in leather and silversmithing, 7 00:00:51,080 --> 00:00:56,920 their company would grow from a garage-based startup into a globally recognized lifestyle 8 00:00:56,920 --> 00:01:04,320 brand. It's easy to be superficial with Chrome Hearts and write off their depth. It's just 9 00:01:04,320 --> 00:01:09,680 a biker look, right? If so, then there's an existing culture and 10 00:01:09,680 --> 00:01:18,400 warm audience. Plus, recognizable images and familiar motifs. And Sterling is an achievable 11 00:01:18,400 --> 00:01:26,160 price point, not elite by any means. Or is there more to their expansion and standing 12 00:01:26,160 --> 00:01:34,000 out if these things seem so common? Was this brand's rise predictable? Is this 13 00:01:34,000 --> 00:01:44,080 genre original or uniquely reintroduced? Did growth happen organically or by some formula? 14 00:01:44,080 --> 00:01:56,960 Other timestamps are in the show notes. So what is an audit? Well, let's begin here 15 00:01:56,960 --> 00:02:03,440 and why it could potentially matter. Most jewelry companies don't start with this. 16 00:02:03,440 --> 00:02:10,720 I didn't. And neither did Cartier, Tiffany's, and Harry Winston. But Chrome Hearts had something 17 00:02:10,720 --> 00:02:16,160 in their favor. And I'll share that after I explain what an audit is and why having 18 00:02:16,160 --> 00:02:22,520 one sooner than later can focus and crystallize a direction and intention. It's important 19 00:02:22,520 --> 00:02:28,160 to address lifestyle and distinguish that as part of this because it shows the capturing 20 00:02:28,160 --> 00:02:36,400 of the values, interests, attitudes, so that you would want service, product, and stories 21 00:02:36,400 --> 00:02:43,000 to be congruent. Most designs don't have this in mind when they begin. Chrome Hearts 22 00:02:43,000 --> 00:02:51,640 seem to have accidentally understood this. An audit can take many forms. Checking strengths, 23 00:02:51,640 --> 00:02:58,960 weaknesses, threats, and opportunities is a standard formula. Or it can be a little 24 00:02:58,960 --> 00:03:07,480 more creative and go through its reach, such as values, mission, competition analysis, 25 00:03:07,480 --> 00:03:13,200 and market performance. Today, I'm going to be a bit more forensic in the sense of rewinding 26 00:03:13,200 --> 00:03:28,360 the tapes and unwinding the pattern of highlights in the timeline of Chrome Hearts. 27 00:03:28,360 --> 00:03:31,400 The Birth Origin 28 00:03:31,400 --> 00:03:38,520 Formed in 1988 in Hollywood, we start with the trifecta of a leather broker who had access 29 00:03:38,520 --> 00:03:48,800 to fine and finer materials, a leather manufacturer who can create and produce insid materials, 30 00:03:48,800 --> 00:03:55,520 and a jeweler who specialized in sterling, the maker who could enhance the grommets, 31 00:03:55,520 --> 00:04:02,400 slippers, and flourishes on primarily leather goods, but also execute a side series of accessories 32 00:04:02,400 --> 00:04:08,040 in sterling. What started as creating for just friends and family would soon summon 33 00:04:08,040 --> 00:04:16,160 the product placement opportunity in just one year. These founders, Richard Stark, who 34 00:04:16,160 --> 00:04:22,880 had been working as the leather dealer, his friend John Bowman, who was the leather manufacturer, 35 00:04:22,880 --> 00:04:29,120 were a killer combo. Richard was deep into the motorcycle world. They chose to combine 36 00:04:29,120 --> 00:04:36,240 forces and make upgraded biker jackets that went beyond the standard issue, so they elevated 37 00:04:36,240 --> 00:04:45,440 the basics. Richard was already into the motorcycle culture, so in theory he had a potential clientele 38 00:04:45,440 --> 00:04:51,800 and a possible warm audience. They would welcome in Leonard Kemet, who would specialize in 39 00:04:51,800 --> 00:04:59,720 silver alloys. Remember, there was no company name yet. They were simply taking commissions 40 00:04:59,720 --> 00:05:07,880 and doing custom work. In 1989, they were approached to make wardrobe pieces, also called costume 41 00:05:07,880 --> 00:05:17,120 design, for a low budget comedy horror whose working film name was Chrome Hearts. Since 42 00:05:17,120 --> 00:05:24,620 the movie would get renamed, that moniker was available. One of the actresses was dating 43 00:05:24,620 --> 00:05:31,160 punk rocker Steve Jones of the Sex Pistols. Doors would open because he wore his commissions 44 00:05:31,160 --> 00:05:36,920 on stage, and that began a following. When Steve wore Chrome Hearts on stage during his 45 00:05:36,920 --> 00:05:42,960 performances, it crossed the genres from biker into rocker. Yet both are congruent with a 46 00:05:42,960 --> 00:05:50,960 raw, rebellious spirit and merging the tough exterior with smooth execution. Early fans 47 00:05:50,960 --> 00:05:58,360 created a subculture for this brand, and they were Lenny Kravitz, Motley Crue, and Guns 48 00:05:58,360 --> 00:06:05,200 and Roses. All three musical acts fed into the glam metal look that was happening in 49 00:06:05,200 --> 00:06:12,560 the 80s, which was about to go grunge in the 90s. Timing was a key component, so let's 50 00:06:12,560 --> 00:06:26,800 look at what was happening in our world. A strong aesthetic? Borrowing from a local movement, 51 00:06:26,800 --> 00:06:34,080 but contrasting nation-wide history, the 1970s, especially Los Angeles, were making 52 00:06:34,080 --> 00:06:40,920 waves with punk rock. Yet by the 80s, their preppy look eclipsed the leftovers from a 53 00:06:40,920 --> 00:06:48,200 hippie aesthetic and the disco era. But not long after Chrome Hearts established itself, 54 00:06:48,200 --> 00:06:55,320 music was colliding with fashion. The quote-unquote Seattle sound, meaning the niche of darker 55 00:06:55,320 --> 00:07:02,880 but distorted songs from bands like Nirvana, Soundgarden, or Allison Chains musical acts, 56 00:07:02,880 --> 00:07:09,960 were getting its legs. It borrowed from punk, and it contrasted clean. Sounds a lot like 57 00:07:09,960 --> 00:07:18,360 a biker culture. So, locally, since Los Angeles was dead south of the Pacific Northwest, and 58 00:07:18,360 --> 00:07:25,920 tunes could capture the bass of the 70s, and exit of the 80s, and entrance of the 90s, 59 00:07:25,920 --> 00:07:30,440 with the edge of malaise and questioning what the direction was, it all seemed kind 60 00:07:30,440 --> 00:07:36,560 of perfect for the inception of Chrome Hearts. Everything seemed to be crawling forward into 61 00:07:36,560 --> 00:07:52,080 the unknown, and it was a perfect pairing of what we understood, and also into the new. 62 00:07:52,080 --> 00:07:56,440 Strong Design The word Gothic refers to medieval times in 63 00:07:56,440 --> 00:08:05,240 Europe. Realism, which is earthly representations, versus imagined, or enhanced, or fantasized 64 00:08:05,240 --> 00:08:14,520 imagery, often drew from themes of nature, religion, darkness, and strong symbolism. 65 00:08:14,520 --> 00:08:22,360 As for the font, it was heavily flourished and a bit ornate, which became a key element 66 00:08:22,360 --> 00:08:29,960 in the source material and wide had contemporary appeal for this brand. In modern Gothic statements, 67 00:08:29,960 --> 00:08:36,880 Sterling is more lunar, and associated with nighttime and the mystery that it held. Motifs 68 00:08:36,880 --> 00:08:45,520 of Egyptian totems or oaks, crosses, hearts and daggers, which simultaneously represented 69 00:08:45,520 --> 00:08:50,920 death and rebirth if you're a fan of Mother Mary or Saint Therese, and being pierced by 70 00:08:50,920 --> 00:08:59,840 a supernatural experience. Skulls were for momentum ori, and floor-de-lie, a royal icon, 71 00:08:59,840 --> 00:09:10,280 the power of the Holy Family, or the Trinity, and palogenesis, which is fancy for birth, 72 00:09:10,280 --> 00:09:12,720 death, and rebirth cycles. 73 00:09:12,720 --> 00:09:24,440 So now let's get back to Chrome Hearts and the 1990s. 74 00:09:24,440 --> 00:09:30,840 British versus mainstream decade, Chrome Hearts had established their vibe, it had also found 75 00:09:30,840 --> 00:09:40,120 their tribe. Lastly, it knew its truth and commitment, materials, quality, identity, 76 00:09:40,120 --> 00:09:47,680 and little did they know, they would begin their chapter of quote-unquote world building. 77 00:09:47,680 --> 00:09:54,920 Having captured two genres and a few potent celebrities who would be accidental influencers, 78 00:09:54,920 --> 00:10:01,280 as there was no contract or quid pro quo back then, the next big step would be an awards 79 00:10:01,280 --> 00:10:12,960 show, a creative director, distribution, and a dissolution. In 1992, the CFDA, Council of 80 00:10:12,960 --> 00:10:19,280 Fashion Designers of America, reached out to inform Chrome Hearts that they had accomplished 81 00:10:19,280 --> 00:10:26,920 the Accessories of the Year award. Small problem, Richard did not see himself as an accessories 82 00:10:26,920 --> 00:10:35,320 company, and he thought the call was a hoax. It was in fact real, and would give Chrome 83 00:10:35,320 --> 00:10:41,080 Hearts a visibility they could not have predicted. When asked to pick a celebrity to present 84 00:10:41,080 --> 00:10:49,000 their award, they secretly chose Cher, who by now was a devoted patron. Richard said, 85 00:10:49,000 --> 00:10:57,840 if you don't trust my choice, figure out plan B by yourselves. The CFDA would create new 86 00:10:57,840 --> 00:11:08,920 eyes and new credibility for the trio. The 90s also gave them Lori Lynn, a future co-owner. 87 00:11:08,920 --> 00:11:16,000 She ran into Richard, and soon after, the fusion of her art direction and his production 88 00:11:16,000 --> 00:11:21,840 would help birth their collaboration. But more importantly, she would eventually provide 89 00:11:21,840 --> 00:11:28,800 marketing, photography, ready wear vs commission, and print work in the form of the Chrome 90 00:11:28,800 --> 00:11:34,680 Hearts magazine. Aside from the professional infusion of her expertise, she would fall 91 00:11:34,680 --> 00:11:41,680 in love with Mary Richard. This would play into the Chrome Hearts Longevity game. 92 00:11:41,680 --> 00:11:49,920 Chrome Hearts was doing well with the experiment of local outlet and retail boutique, Maxfield. 93 00:11:49,920 --> 00:11:54,880 Richard had brought a biker jacket and chaps over, and the owner Tommy Purse chose to test 94 00:11:54,880 --> 00:12:03,920 it out. Now, Chrome Hearts has their clientele, which included famous people and their stylists, 95 00:12:03,920 --> 00:12:10,600 as well as anchoring a storefront for the brand. Distribution. 96 00:12:10,600 --> 00:12:16,920 So here they are, cooking along, winning an award that helps other designers notice them, 97 00:12:16,920 --> 00:12:24,720 a talent extraordinaire to accelerate their product, posh and desirable reseller that 98 00:12:24,720 --> 00:12:31,920 would help gain access to getting carried in Bergdorf Goodmans and be seen in Vogue campaigns. 99 00:12:31,920 --> 00:12:38,680 The year 1994 would signal the split. As Richard had been the lifeline, heart, and soul of 100 00:12:38,680 --> 00:12:44,640 Chrome Hearts, he simply bought out as partners, at a time when they were primed to go from 101 00:12:44,640 --> 00:12:52,120 cult to commercial status. Yet, this would begin the second act of Chrome Hearts. 102 00:12:52,120 --> 00:13:06,120 Positioning. Perhaps the smartest thing they did is create, not react. Richard said he 103 00:13:06,120 --> 00:13:13,080 did not care about trends one bit. Even today, if you visit their URL, there is no about 104 00:13:13,080 --> 00:13:19,280 page on their site. No conspicuous prices, and even their Instagram is more of a visual 105 00:13:19,280 --> 00:13:26,320 storyboard than a straight up sales tool. Post-buyout, Maxfield helped the brand open 106 00:13:26,320 --> 00:13:32,960 its first boutique across the street from their original reseller, which is a huge move. 107 00:13:32,960 --> 00:13:38,640 In 1996, they would have a showroom in New York City, and in 1999, they would have a 108 00:13:38,640 --> 00:13:45,960 door in Tokyo. As a company that did not do seasonal designing or collections making, 109 00:13:45,960 --> 00:13:51,160 this was a big move. Their signature elements were strong enough to draw commissions and 110 00:13:51,160 --> 00:13:59,840 custom work, but also capture external fashion luminaries like Ray Kawakubo. Chrome Hearts 111 00:13:59,840 --> 00:14:06,640 seemed to be elevating by being irreverent and reversing the playbook. 112 00:14:06,640 --> 00:14:14,720 The 2000s would mark some significant collaborations. Let's begin with the familiar. Already embedded 113 00:14:14,720 --> 00:14:21,480 in celebrity and music scenes, the internationally known band, The Rolling Stones, would create 114 00:14:21,480 --> 00:14:30,240 a collaboration for tour gear with Chrome Hearts in 2002. Two years later, Yves Saint Laurent, 115 00:14:30,240 --> 00:14:38,640 a fashion brand in France, would join forces to produce a t-shirt collection. In 2007, 116 00:14:38,640 --> 00:14:45,960 Ray Kawakubo, who had founded Comde Garçon, a Japanese-French company whose founder was 117 00:14:45,960 --> 00:14:52,640 in both Tokyo and Paris, would then partner. 2010 would bring California fashion visionary 118 00:14:52,640 --> 00:15:02,280 Rick Owens, 2014 would be Londoner Carson McCall, and by 2015, America's Virgil Abloh, 119 00:15:02,280 --> 00:15:08,800 an architect turned fashion designer, would be next. Now, Chrome Hearts would have fingerprints 120 00:15:08,800 --> 00:15:21,880 externally in streetwear, dark fashion, and home goods. 121 00:15:21,880 --> 00:15:28,080 It's time to name check the elite aficionados and the companies that cemented their rise 122 00:15:28,080 --> 00:15:34,480 from local to global over the years. By now, Chrome Hearts had begun the acquisition of 123 00:15:34,480 --> 00:15:41,440 three blocks of Hollywood floor space for furniture creation, jewelry studios, and an operating 124 00:15:41,440 --> 00:15:51,840 base, which meant made in USA with nearly 100% vertical integration. Most importantly, 125 00:15:51,840 --> 00:15:58,680 this was done without the typical, quote unquote, client journey from marketing or the short 126 00:15:58,680 --> 00:16:05,760 trend cycles in the clothing world. And they were a pretty unlikely choice as far as being 127 00:16:05,760 --> 00:16:12,140 suited for the fashion paradigm. They had no primary e-commerce, they had no about tab 128 00:16:12,140 --> 00:16:19,320 on their URL, and yet, I'd begun to establish why they became a crossover brand. So here 129 00:16:19,320 --> 00:16:25,440 is the roll call of celebrity clients and the companies for collaborations. From the 130 00:16:25,440 --> 00:16:34,080 music industry, we have all walks and multi gens and genres. Cher, Elton John, Stephen 131 00:16:34,080 --> 00:16:44,760 Tyler, Lou Reed, Lenny Kravitz, Sex Pistols, Motley Crue, Guns N' Roses, Madonna, Kanye 132 00:16:44,760 --> 00:16:57,320 West, The Weeknd, Britney Spears, Lady Gaga, Cardi B, Drake, and Billie Eilish. Ages range 133 00:16:57,320 --> 00:17:06,840 from 78 to 22 at this time. From the acting and print work realm, Nicholas Cage, Claudia 134 00:17:06,840 --> 00:17:19,560 Schiffer, Pamela Anderson, Matt LeBlanc, Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid, ages 60 to 27 at this 135 00:17:19,560 --> 00:17:28,280 time. Athletes would include Dennis Rodman, Caleb Williams, and Empire Builders would 136 00:17:28,280 --> 00:17:37,480 be Martha Stewart, Damien Hurst, Kylie Jenner, and Carl Lagerfield. With that last one, peer 137 00:17:37,480 --> 00:17:44,640 praise had been achieved. Chanel would go on to create only 10 handbags with Krumhardt's 138 00:17:44,640 --> 00:17:53,440 hardware. Let's not forget this German fashionista, creative director, who had a love for lace 139 00:17:53,440 --> 00:18:01,560 and feminine detailing would show up unannounced multiple times, declaring Krumhardt's quote 140 00:18:01,560 --> 00:18:14,960 the only real brand unquote, and proclaiming heirloom status over both leather and sterling. 141 00:18:14,960 --> 00:18:23,080 Regarding companies, here are a few names that you might have heard. Rolls Royce, Chanel, 142 00:18:23,080 --> 00:18:39,000 Bakara, even Rolex. If you want to hear more about that brand, see the previous episode. 143 00:18:39,000 --> 00:18:46,440 Passing the torch. Let's discuss the next generation. Oldest daughter, current vice 144 00:18:46,440 --> 00:18:54,920 president, creative of the company, Jesse Joe Stark said quote, a baby could wear it. My 145 00:18:54,920 --> 00:19:01,960 grandma could wear it. Travis Scott could wear it unquote. The last name is a rapper 146 00:19:01,960 --> 00:19:10,600 and producer who is aged 30 at this time. Jesse Joe and her twin siblings, Christian 147 00:19:10,600 --> 00:19:16,400 and Frankie Bell, have their own brands. Yet the crossover of community and influence is 148 00:19:16,400 --> 00:19:24,200 to be noted. Frankie's ex, who runs Maddie Boy, came into the family company, collaborated, 149 00:19:24,200 --> 00:19:31,680 then shot off. But yet is a creative director for Krumhardt's. Christian runs Thrilltrip 150 00:19:31,680 --> 00:19:39,680 and his twin sister began a swimwear company called Dipped in Blue. Remember that CFDA call 151 00:19:39,680 --> 00:19:47,720 in 1992 that Krumhardts had won accessories of the year? By 2022, they would add lifetime 152 00:19:47,720 --> 00:20:01,080 achievement from the same organization. So what are the top five things that Krumhardts 153 00:20:01,080 --> 00:20:08,520 did right and still does? I'm so glad you asked. Number one, the be so good they can't 154 00:20:08,520 --> 00:20:14,280 ignore you idea. When Richard Stark finally got face to face time with share back in the 155 00:20:14,280 --> 00:20:20,800 90s, he tried to sell her a custom guitar strap for $5,000. Hermes bags weren't even 156 00:20:20,800 --> 00:20:29,960 that pricey. But after her initial scoff, she said it was a work of art made with rebellious 157 00:20:29,960 --> 00:20:38,640 traditionalism and conviction to high aesthetic, high production and therefore high price. 158 00:20:38,640 --> 00:20:46,640 Two, underproduced like luxury brands do. Their signature pillars, leather and silver, 159 00:20:46,640 --> 00:20:52,880 are appointment based meetings in authorized dealerships or showrooms. Even an entry level 160 00:20:52,880 --> 00:20:59,760 ring means an order is taken, weeks will be used to produce, and then you can come and 161 00:20:59,760 --> 00:21:06,560 collect your pseudo commission. Like a suit at a Taylor's. This is not the ready wear 162 00:21:06,560 --> 00:21:15,360 or fast fashion mindset. Three, when there's a fallout, pivot to a buyout. If you are the 163 00:21:15,360 --> 00:21:21,160 heart and soul of a business, and the team that got you from A to B will drag you back 164 00:21:21,160 --> 00:21:27,760 or prohibit B to C, reclaim the vision and be okay with the gap until you can go it alone 165 00:21:27,760 --> 00:21:35,200 or find others at new heights. Four, have a design language that can go hard into lifestyle, 166 00:21:35,200 --> 00:21:43,000 home goods, famous partnerships and more without losing following or direction because it doesn't 167 00:21:43,000 --> 00:21:51,320 compromise, waiver or fail to find conviction in your aesthetic. Five, get on the radar 168 00:21:51,320 --> 00:22:01,160 of your least likely face, fan, critic or competition. Karl Lagerfeld is hardly a biker 169 00:22:01,160 --> 00:22:08,680 slash rocker, spokesperson. But when that German born lace wearing director Chanel says 170 00:22:08,680 --> 00:22:16,320 your quote unquote legend, the value and vision you produce goes beyond the lanes we claim 171 00:22:16,320 --> 00:22:26,840 and deserves the recognition for being outstanding in the realm of art. 172 00:22:26,840 --> 00:22:30,920 Thank you for listening and learning with me. I would love you to share this project 173 00:22:30,920 --> 00:22:35,360 with people finding rear beauty in today's world and throughout our times. Until the 174 00:22:35,360 --> 00:22:48,320 next episode, keep your own story sparkling.