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Welcome to the Gilt Trips podcast. I'm your host, Kendra Lockhart. As a goldsmith and

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gemologist, I'll be speaking 24 carat on all things jewelry, metals, and gems. Join

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me plus a few friends to demystify both materials and designs as your private jeweler. Let's

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tune in on these topics and get golden. A diamond is forever, one of advertising's most

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recognized slogans. In 1947, a woman named Frances would pitch this to her associates

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working on the De Beers campaign. What started as a scribble on the image of lovers on a

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honeymoon would soon be linking rocks, romance, and relevance in a single marketing phrase.

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What is it about this gem that has captivated cultures through the centuries around the

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world? Why does it have premier status in both love and money? How is it superior to

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other jewels, both objectively and in the eye of some beholders? In today's episode,

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we will explore both fact and folklore of the most recognized crystal in the industry.

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Out has changed its own industry as well as others, and of course, myth-busting the fine

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line between scandal and scuttlebutt in the mundane and mythological realms. Chapters

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will be time-stamped in the show notes. Let's start with the Greeks, since the word diamond

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is derived from their language. The root for this is ademas, meaning unbreakable. Not only

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is this the hardest substance in our known universe, but they were considered beautiful

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even in their uncut form. Ancient folklore considered these jewels to be tears of the

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gods and also guests to be splinters from the stars. But that cutting them was taboo,

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a form of sacrilege that could anger the forces above us here on earth. Good thing we over

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came that belief. However, the philosopher Plato suggested that there were celestial

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beings trapped in these stones, so now we see the layer of assuming a mystique and a

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power regarding diamonds. When Rome conquered their land, the culture continued the fables

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and said that Cupid's aero tip must be from diamond, and soldiers were known to wear them

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for protection purposes, which made them prized above gold. But wait, how did Greece and Rome

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get diamonds? These are not the lands that they come from originally. In the fourth century

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BC, a conqueror named Alexander the Great makes his way to India. In this region, diamonds

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are found and marketed amongst the wealthy class because they equated rarity of these

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gems with luxury. So Alexander, being a king back in Macedonia, claims these for himself

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and his people and introduces them to that population. This would evolve into a trade

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and he would have this with other parts of the European continent.

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How diamonds were formed even before they were discovered as key? There are two ways,

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washing up from river deposits and bursting up from former volcanoes. Let's get nerdy

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for a bit and explain the ways that diamond material is formed first of all and secondly

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the methods of getting it to where we could find it without mining. Made millions of years

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ago in the earth mantle or crust, under profound temperature and pressure, diamonds would make

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their way to the surface in alluvial deposits. That requires the agent of water to travel

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with the clay, sand, gravel, or silt, which is fine soil. Raw diamonds get carried from

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place A to place B with this sediment through river channels and end up near banks. This

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matters because diamonds are not evenly distributed around the world and erosion or transportation

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is required. The other way we commonly find diamonds is through the element of fire. Volcanic

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eruptions would burst the raw diamonds up to our surface. The material that would surround

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the crystals is called kimberlite. The difference between these two methods of finding diamonds

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is that the kimberlite has to be removed to free the gem and is considered primary. Having

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water erode the host material and relocate it from its original site is considered secondary.

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Let's get into diamond structure, characteristics, and do a little myth busting. The crystals

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commonly grow into a form known as octahedrons, which is like two pyramids joined at their

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flat bases for a visual. Made primarily from carbon with a few other trace elements that

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can contribute to certain properties, in addition to its inherent hardness, ability to refract

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light, and having high thermal conductivity, each of these are strong markers of a diamond

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versus imposter jewels. Once a diamond is determined to be worth cutting and converting into commercial

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purposes, the next steps set the price and the composite caliber of the final product.

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The characteristics or foresees of color, clarity, cut, and carrot change the pricing

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and perceive beauty and therefore desire to the consumer. Color refers to the tone of

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the overall jewel, which converts to a scale to quantify, which we will address next. Clarity

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speaks to the presence or absence of internal and external flaws, blemishes, or inclusions

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that can be identified under magnification of 10 power or a 10 times loop, eyepiece. Cut

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is broken down into proportions, symmetry, polish, but also the style of the silhouette

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and facet pattern, such as modified brilliant cushion cut. And last, carrot, how much weight

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was salvaged from the original crystal? Too much lost leaves money on the table. Too little

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results in a diamond with a lower price due to poorer overall quality. Learning more about

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each of these characteristics sounds like this. Regarding the color of a diamond, the

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clearness to whiteness to off whiteness of the material is determined by the amount of

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nitrogen in the compound. Almost zero will yield a water like base tone, moving down

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into a true white hue, then into a warmer shade and landing in the yellow and brownish

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colors after certain percentages. The Gemological Institute of America, known as the GIA, was

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an educational body that standardized the grading of color because everyone was making

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up their own names and getting their exaggerations on. So we know we have an international and

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universal scale from D to Z. Why start at D? To end associations with the former models

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using A, B, C, 1, 2, 3, or location names. How do fancy diamonds get their colors? Yellow

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and brown, more aesthetically known as champagne or cognac diamonds we just covered. Blue diamonds

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have boron present. Green diamonds were irradiated at some point in development. Pink diamonds

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have a deformation in their crystal structure and change the light play. Much like curly

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hair has a different growth pattern than straight hair. Clarity is a fun one to discuss because

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it shows the quote-unquote birthmarks of the diamond. External examples can be a crystal

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knot, often called a natural, at the surface that is left in the cutting process. Other

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external marks can be trigons, which is like the peel of an orange. Internally there can

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be bubbles, needle-like formations, clear crystals, or darker ones that usually are a

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different gem material that got swept up in the mix while forming, such as garnet or sapphire.

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So those are often generalized as dark or light inclusions. There is a scalar system

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for this assessment of a diamond as well. Flawless, internally flawless, very, very

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small, very small, small inclusions, and then the rest that no longer require that 10 times

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magnification, called included. And all these terms are abbreviated on receipts, appraisals,

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and lab reports as the one to two letters just like the color codes. Cut is a lot like a

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figure-skitting performance. The term implies the artistic shape and facet pattern, but

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also the technical execution of the cutting. Since the verb comes first in the process,

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speak to proportions, symmetry, and polish. Does a round diamond look round? Does a pear

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shape have one shoulder higher than the other, causing asymmetry? Were there drag lines from

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a polishing that wasn't clean, just like when we leave streaks behind on glassware?

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These tasks are the art and execution of the hands behind the shaping of the diamond. What

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comes out of it are the styles of the final product. While there are many modified layouts

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for stones today, the bulk can be categorized as brilliant cuts, where the facets are triangular

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and break the light into color or step cuts, layered rectangular planes that reflect white

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light more than bend and refract. The outer silhouettes that we see commonly are round,

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emerald, pear, heart, cushion, and some of the patterns that get commercial names instead

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of practical ones would be princess cut, marquee, asher, radiant, a shaka. Those are all cuts

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that are trademark styles. And let's not forget the older ones like rondelle, bréalette,

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rose cut that are still in demand with today's wearers. And finally, carrot with a C for gems,

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not a K for metals. In the world of jewels, the weight version came before the purity

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classifications. A carrot is equal to 0.2 grams, which is about a quarter of a whole

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raisin. When it comes time to pulling all four C's together and establishing a price,

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the diamond industry turns to the Rappaport report, or RAP for short, for costs by carrot,

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color, clarity, and cut, plus the quality. Let's have some fun around the myths that

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I've had to bust for my clients and a few colleagues who did not specialize in gemology

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or have never been on a jeweler's bench. One, diamonds can't break. While diamonds

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are hard and can only be polished and scratched by other diamonds, that does not mean they

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are tough when it comes to trauma, force, or abuse. When you find the right line of weakness

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on a diamond, a striker blow will cleave that crystal. And when you are a jeweler making

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a piece, it's impossible not to nick an edge or crack a corner while setting a stone.

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Number two, inclusions are bad. First, let's stop calling them carbon spots because the

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diamond itself is carbon. And inclusions not only help gemologists identify the diamond

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as natural, but they help the consumer see the difference between two identical looking

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stones, yet the flawless one is ten times the cost. Rarely is an inclusion place so

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that it weakens the diamond when it comes to cutting, setting, or wearing the gem in

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forceful situations. Three, speaking of carbon, diamonds are not compressed coal. That type

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of carbon is from dirt over plants getting pressed and hardened in a wet environment

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over millions of years. Now, the millions of years is the same for the diamond crystals.

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Four, diamonds aren't rare. Diamond material is somewhat common, but jewelry-grade diamonds

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are rare. Only 20% of found gems are eligible for our industry. The rest go to industrial

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purposes such as dental drill bits, automotives, or for use with mining. And fifth, fluorescence

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lowers the value of a diamond. The presence of phosphorescence, which is the afterglow

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of a diamond from exposure to UV lighting, in a clear diamond this can be unappealing.

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In a gem with a less desirable body color, it can improve the perceived tone. And 30%

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of diamonds have a degree of fluorescence. A trio of important events that shape the diamond

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industry and consumerism starts with that first engagement ring. In 1477, Emperor Max

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Million of Austria commissions a diamond ring to betroth Mary of Burgundy. This is where

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we correlate all the meanings to the method. A diamond is unbreakable, so is true love.

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Material beauty expressing the non-physical emotion. Now, do we know if they were soulmates?

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Not really. And the engagement ring wouldn't become popular until the 1900s, thanks to

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the six-pronged solitaire from Tiffany and Company. We can't talk about diamonds without

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the business conglomerate De Beers. The company was founded in 1888 by British businessman

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Cecil Rhodes, who finances diamond mining at a large scale in the coasts and alluvial

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deposits of South Africa. De Beers is named for two Dutch settler brothers who discovered

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diamonds on their farm and England pushed them to sell their land in South Africa by

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1871. It becomes a mine. Back to Cecil, who is renting water pumps for this diamond rush,

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and he starts putting his profits into buying up all of the claims. He would get money in

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backing from the Rothschild family and crafts the deal where he supplies fixed amounts at

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fixed prices or a monopoly that would be threatened by new supply or lack thereof.

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A new mine gets formed in 1905 but doesn't join the De Beers cartel. It sells to the

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Oppenheimers and uh-oh, one of them becomes mayor down in Kimberly, South Africa, a major

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location for raw diamonds. He's the guy who says, let's use scarcity and reduced production

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to make them more valuable. And during World War I, he allows absorption of his mine into

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De Beers but not before he's on the London board and that our CIA claims that the holding

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company restricted US access for war efforts. So the son of Oppenheimers now head and De

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Beers does about 90% of the diamond business globally. It tried a few shady ideas to dominate

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the international market. One, coerce independence to join. Two, flood the market and bankrupt

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the little guys. Three, constrict supply and stockpile. But America wasn't having it.

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In the 1960s and 70s, we forced them to divest and break up due to our antitrust laws. Oppenheimers

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steps down in 1982. In 2000, the business model gets changed a second time again due

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to outside defenses. The blood diamond publicity and the opportunity for conflict free countries

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simultaneously flares up. Now we know a rumor makes its way around the world faster than

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truth can put its shoes on. And a tiny area known as Sierra Leone was funding an uprising

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versus terrorism, meaning organized crime could get these on black markets. But remember,

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De Beers owned 90% of the trade and no names had to run syndicates to get a sale. But Canada

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is now on the books, which made the odds of a blood diamond being a commercial purchase

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less than 1.5% possibility. Yet this would cause a giant ripple in reaction that I will

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get into in a later section. You have a glimpse into global trade. Let's look at the art

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of the deal. When I last talked to my importer friends, there was a time it took 1 million

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in cash to secure a seat at the diamond exchange in Israel, which is also a nation known for

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master cutters and located in Ramat Gan. When prices are agreed upon, that is sealed with

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a handshake and mutual parties honors. Mazel is said to wish luck in the selling and closes

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the transaction. Breaking Mazel puts family reputations on the line and you can get banned

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from the industry with your photos circulated to all outlets. It's fascinating that a physical

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gesture and a word is treated as seriously as a legal merger without all the contracts

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and red tape. This is the strict culture of all diamond districts.

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Socio-economically, it's been interesting to watch the waves of money and ownership

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around diamonds. What began with India's elite, then a Macedonian king conqueror, Roman

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military, European monarchies, American wealth, our socialite culture, and finally the riches

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of Hollywood, the celebrity clientele, which I will be devoting an entire episode to master

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collector Elizabeth Taylor. But meanwhile, let's take a look at how culturally prevalent

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the diamond became in films since the turn of the 20th century and our advancement of

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making movies. First, Marie Antoinette. Starring Kirsten Dunst, the main character owns some

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elaborate pieces as a royal before the French Revolution and confiscation of the crown's

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jewelry assets. Her husband was an owner of the Hope Diamond, and you can hear more about

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that in the Harry Winston episode. The Great Gatsby, the jazz age opulence and new affluence

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in America was perfectly costumed in Bas Lerman's film where the main characters love

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interest and eventual downfall was exquisitely dressed in real pieces from Tiffany's, including

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the headband and engagement ring on Carrie Mulligan as Daisy Buchanan.

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Titanic. A supporting role was played by a necklace on Kate Winslet. It was supposed

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to be a blue diamond called, quote, Heart of the Ocean, unquote, but it was a prop item.

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This then has been recreated by jewelers Asprey and Gerard, a British jewelry house, with

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a sapphire after the film's success. That real deal was worn by Celine Dionne, who sang

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the title song before it was sold at $1.4 million.

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Oceans 8. Anne Hathaway is the victim of a jewelry theft by a crew of female carnars.

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While she wore the prop version of the Cartier-Touissant necklace, interior shots of the New York

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Cartier showroom were used in this movie.

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Finally, Moulin Rouge. Nicole Kidman plays a courtesan who stars in a cabaret and wears

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the satine necklace given to her by the Duke, named for her character. Made by Australian

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design house Centauri, it was a stunning interpretation of the Edwardian style of the turn of the

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century in Europe and is one of the most expensive necklaces used on a set, weighing in at $5

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million.

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Now did you think I was going to omit the film Blood Diamonds? Hardly. Like I said, this

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tiny area of Africa that was in turmoil politically would end up breaking a Titan-like to beers

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and scare away buyers for several years unless it could be proven to be a clean diamond.

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This territory had been having a civil war for some time, with a conflict between loyalists

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to the existing regime and the insurgents. Hollywood wrote a dark fairy tale of sorts

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where a fisherman is captured and put into a work camp to get diamonds to fund the war.

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Hands are cut off of rebels to discourage voting the wrong way. Smugglers, refugees,

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mercenaries, journalists, and stolen goods all wrap up in a conference on amnesty and

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a standing ovation.

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This movie did two things. The Kimberly process, which I simplify into a passport for the origin

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and channel of the original material to its distribution and its final resulting consumer

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sale. It caused an organic unification of many countries and it debirs rebranding instead

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of coercion while also allowing coexisting with independent nations. And this brings

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us to today's enhancements and inventions in the diamond industry. Technology has done

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so much in the last 25 years. We have created clarity enhanced diamonds, where imperfections

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are drilled out and sometimes filled with a refractive substance to perform along with

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the diamond. Body color has been raised up a greater to with HPHT, which is high pressure,

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high temperature treatments. And lastly, the technique of CVD or carbon vapor deposits

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has given us the lab grown diamonds movement, which will be explored in a future talk.

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Thank you for listening and learning with me. I would love you to share this project with

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people finding rare beauty in today's world and throughout our times. Until the next episode,

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your own story is sparkling.