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Hello and welcome back to Illumination, the Disney Larkana podcast.

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My name is Max and I'm Sam and we are here on the precipice of set championships for

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Ursula's return this time and we are talking over what to do if you're on a budget.

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I was trying to figure out a way to rhyme what to do if you're on a shoe and then like

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string budget, but I thought that was going a little far this quick into the podcast and

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I didn't want to sacrifice any potential listeners who are first timers.

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Welcome on in all of you new and old happy set championships.

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Hopefully you all do well slash have done well slash maybe we can help you if that doesn't

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actually fit your use case.

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We get a whole month this time.

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A whole month of weekends to do this.

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I think they really wanted to offset the stores that were having it on Fridays because that

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was just kind of like, whoa, they're doing them on Fridays.

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They said Saturday, Sunday.

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Now they're doing them on Fridays.

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So that was happening during into the Inklans.

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I wasn't even aware of it or else I would have looked for it.

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So we just got to miss out on a couple of opportunities, unfortunately, but not this

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time because it's all month long and we wanted to talk over what to do if you don't have

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the most money.

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Like I'm talking green steel up to like almost like 900 bucks.

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So we're talking like just under a thousand dollars for some builds of green steel, which

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is crazy and I'm talking like no enchanted in there, not like foiled out.

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I'm talking about just basic green and steel cards costing bunches and bunches of money

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these days.

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We wanted to talk over a potential option for a budget build and we went through and

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priced out some averages on dream born dot Inc.

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If you haven't used it, a fantastic tool.

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They don't sponsor the podcast, but this is your chance dream born dot Inc.

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We put together a little layout of different budgets and we wanted to pick a deck that

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fit the mold for budget, which is one of the cheaper decks you can build.

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Right.

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One 50 to $200 is about the right budget price range.

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If that number frightened you or it concerns you, unfortunately the cheapest deck I could

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find that even was on the playable roster came in around $125 on average.

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Not to say that you can't go out there and club somebody with a sock full of nickels.

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It is totally possible, but it's unlikely that you're going to be able to punch in the

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same way class as people who are rocking a nearly thousand dollar deck.

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We wanted to make sure that we came up with something in a realm of a realistic budget

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we, which we put in around 150 to $200 and we wanted to make sure we came up with a deck

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that has a good track record, not like some super secret tech.

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One of the cheaper decks on the list was Amethyst steel.

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And I just don't know as though that deck is quite there, at least enough to want to

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push people or encourage people to play it in a number and go, Hey, there's stupid idiots

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over illumination told me to play this deck and it stinks.

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I don't have any real games into Amethyst steel.

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A good testing partner of ours does, and they do pretty well with it, but it is a hard deck

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to pilot.

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And I know they get very frustrated, especially in the green steel matchup.

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So I didn't want to push people in a direction that was unknown or potentially not the clearest

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of waters.

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So we landed on a deck and I'm sure it's going to be no surprise to those of you who

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play a lot of Lurkana that the deck we're choosing to highlight for this episode and

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recommend as our budget deck choice, if you want to do well into the Ursula's return meta

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is good old tried and true Ruby Amethyst looks a little different now in Ursula's return.

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There's always been a sliding scale and Ruby Amethyst is one that has been going back to

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the first chapter meta, the most like hardcore control deck to the point of mirrors where

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who could draw more cards with magic mirror.

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And they've shifted now to Ursula's return to probably the most aggressive in build and

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play style that they've ever been, at least since the game has existed to this point.

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We want to talk over everything Ruby Amethyst, and I know this is a very well known deck.

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So the good news is that there's a lot of data.

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There's a lot of ways you can tweak the deck and season to taste.

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And there is a lot of games you can go back and review to help you prepare for set championships.

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So not only are we trying to arm you with something that's affordable.

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We're trying to arm you with something that you can do some diligence on in the days leading

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up to your set champ or champs, depending on how many you're going to play in.

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And something that stands a chance to win.

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Exactly.

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This deck is a winning deck.

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It's placed probably more players in Lurkana top eights than any other archetype.

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It was the second place deck in both of the Challenger events.

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Granted, that was the England's meta, but that was still well represented into Chicago.

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So there is a lot of oomph in this deck.

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It's well positioned right now.

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We'll get into all of those things.

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So we wanted to give you the rundown and luckily Sam has been playing this particular deck,

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not only this build, but just this archetype for quite a while.

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I tried it.

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I don't like it.

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I think personally, I would like this build better than the previous builds.

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I liked it in the first chapter, but I liked Steel Song better, but I like it a lot now.

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And it is on the far end of more tempo and passive lore generation to win quickly than

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it used to be in activating magic mirror dozens of times and just using brooms and befuddles

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to not mill out.

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So times have changed for this deck.

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Sam, you want to run us through the deck's kind of plan?

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Yeah.

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I think as you alluded to, the deck is definitely has the capacity to be more aggressive now,

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but you can also jump into that control deck later in the game if you need to.

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And I think it does a really good job of doing both things, being able to have that balance,

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especially depending on what deck you're playing.

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But the overall goal of this deck is to draw as many cards as you can, get as much passive

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lore as you can.

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The Mim package with Snake and Madam Mim Fox, you want to bounce your goats, bounce your

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rabbits to either gain lore or more cards.

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There's other cards like Maleficent Sorceress, where you draw a card when it enters.

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Cards that draw when they leave.

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Now all your one drops draw when they leave.

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Yep.

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Your one drops, which my build, I go with Turnerbox followers and Magic Broom, and I

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think a lot of people are on that, but there are still different one drops that the deck

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can play.

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Were long since the days of like a one, three for one in most cases.

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Right.

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Some builds run one or two still because they might include the teeth and ambitions to do

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it on them.

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With Turnerbox followers, you draw cards when it quests.

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You can choose to banish it to draw a card with Magic Broom, the new Magic Broom.

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Whenever you play a character, you can banish it so you can quest with it, play a character,

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blow it up, draw a card.

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Or in the late game, pay one, draw a card.

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Yeah.

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Which is pretty, pretty cool.

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Yeah.

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The deck's plan is very simple, right?

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From a very macro high level perspective, we're trying to game passive lore through

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the use of card advantage and using our card advantage to help leverage tempo control early

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by way of Madam Mims being overstatted and being able to pick up key cards to grant us

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more card advantage and then turn that into just hard board control by way of ladies in

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chairs and be prepared.

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So it is a pretty sound game plan.

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They have the new version of Lady Tremaine, if you will, with the new song, Be King Undisputed.

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I love this card.

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I was going to say Be King Unprepared, which is not correct.

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That's not correct.

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Be unprepared.

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That's return all characters from your discard pile to play.

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Okay.

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That's not true.

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That's a card I made up.

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So that is what the deck's trying to do.

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And of course, the first thing you need to do in a game of Lurkana is you need to decide

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on how you're going to mulligan.

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And that's kind of step one.

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That's the first thing we're going to walk through here.

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Now that we've gone over the high level overview of what the deck is trying to do and how it's

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trying to do it.

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So we're talking mulligans here.

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And Sam, I want to talk kind of through three strategies essentially.

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And then we'll talk about an ideal hand.

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I want to talk about cards we always want to mulligan, situational cards to mulligan

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depending.

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And then finally, I want to talk about the things that are the most important to hang

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on to, to help us transition into that ideal hand.

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You've just flipped over seven fresh cards, right?

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What are the cards that are insta flipping down?

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Are going back into the deck.

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Be prepared.

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Medusa slash ladies in chairs and be king undisputed are just going away.

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And you also tend to mulligan your songs relatively aggressively in the blind, right?

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In the blind, yeah.

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Even friends on the other side, just because green decks are so prevalent, correct?

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I don't want a green deck taking my friends on the other side on turn two.

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If Ursula, two drop Ursula deceiver out of Emerald gets to snag your friends on the other

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side, it is a disaster.

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It's a complete disaster for you.

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Like that card, if you see a green card to get inked or played on one, your second turn

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ink is most likely going to be friends on the other side.

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If you haven't already mulligan, we're talking if you get it as the next set of cards that

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you've gotten to in my opening hand after mulligan away and then it just one gets sniped

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and there's nothing you can do about it.

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You want to control it as much as you can.

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Obviously there are things and this is a good little mini lesson to pack in here.

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There are things inside of your control and things outside of your control.

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It's important.

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And I talk about this a lot on the podcast.

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Making sure you're separating them.

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I can't help that I drew two friends on the other side.

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I cannot help that my opponent elected to play Ursula deceiver on two as opposed to

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Bucky, but it resulted in me discarding a friend.

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There's nothing I could do about it.

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I couldn't ink quicker.

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I couldn't just hide it under my chair.

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That's against the rules.

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So there's no choice there, but to just suck it up and let them take the card.

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It's hard to want to mulligan a fringe.

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Just if you were as your very first ink, not knowing, like if you're on the play and you

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don't know what your opponent's on, just inking a friends, especially over something that

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isn't maybe terribly useful.

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A lot of the time where maybe a duplicate is difficult, but as soon as you see that

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sign you have to know, okay, it's time to start inking the songs because otherwise they're

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going to get stripped out of my hand.

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And like we talked about, that's a game losing proposition.

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So what are the cards you're going to keep sometimes cards you're not going to keep other

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times depending on the texture of your other cards in hand.

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These are kind of like, I'm mulligan them about half the time.

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Situationally I mulligan these.

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Merlin rabbit just because it's uninkable.

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So it's sometimes a little difficult, especially depending on the rest of your hand and how

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many inkables you have.

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Goat I would say most of the time I throw back goat, but if I'm light on inkables, I

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might keep one.

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That's fair.

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Snake.

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I think that's just better late game anymore.

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Yeah.

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A lot of decks are trimming on their snakes.

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So we're seeing like two to three as opposed to the usual full four.

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And castle.

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I'm not saying most of the time I'm going to send back castle, but there are definitely

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matchups where it's useful.

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Also I don't mind inking one early on.

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No, no, it's one of those cards.

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It's phenomenal late and you want to see as close to as an end game proposition as possible.

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Sometimes you're like, Oh crap, I'm on three castles because I'm just going to castle rush

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and see if my opponent can deal with it, which is good unless it's the mirror really.

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And then we have the, I never want to mulligan these except under very specific circumstances

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or as close to never as possible.

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That would be the one drops either one of them.

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Flynn rider brawl.

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I like to have a Fox in my opening hand.

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I think you really want that one, two, three, plus having an option for removal is great.

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And brawl I think is the best one because it can't be sniped from your hand by Ursula.

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Right.

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So I really like having those, but I think one drop, two drop, and then one of the three

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drops is just ideal.

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Makes sense.

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So your ideal hand looks something like one to two, one drops Flynn rider for enemy, Sisu

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and Bolden warrior or Maleficent sorceress brawl Fox, and then like one to two other

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cards depending on how many of those aforementioned cards are in your opening hand.

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Right.

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I would be very happy with that.

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Cool.

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Well, that makes sense for mulliganning.

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Now that we've got our seven cards though, we're going to have to start inking them.

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What is your general plan for the most part?

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How are you inking in this deck on the whole?

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This is obviously going to change very drastically in game two, or if you know what your opponent's

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on in a top eight situation where you've been playing in the same little shop all day and

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now everybody's like, Oh no, he's on this.

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Now you're going to know, and you're going to be able to do this.

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But if you have advanced knowledge or you're on game two slash three, if you're playing

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best of three, you're going to need to have a general more specific plan than what this

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is.

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But I'd say just on the whole, how are you going to be inking?

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What informs your ink choices?

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How do you handle the process when you're looking at a hand early on?

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I would say what informs it is usually the cost.

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I'll ink higher cost characters slash Queens castle.

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I'll ink multiples.

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If I have three Foxes in my opening hand, maybe I'll mulligan one.

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I hate to do it.

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Same with multiple Maui's or multiple of anything I might ink.

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So if you start to see duplicate situational card, Joe Mulligan for sure.

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Yes.

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And the ideal prospect, the thing that guides your inking decisions is making sure you have

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a curve of playables.

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You want to play a one, you want to play a two, you want to play a three.

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I think that's the most important thing in this deck against most decks you're going

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to play is having that curve.

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I think that's fair to say.

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Situationally, is there anything that has a high threshold?

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Like this card's the best card against certain decks and or this card is unplayable against

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other decks.

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And so they're like the keep or mall just, it shifts from like, this is a hardcore keep

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to, no, you can get rid of this one depending on the matchup.

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I think brawl's one.

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I think it's probably the most obvious choice here for sure.

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Especially later in the game.

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If you have a Medusa in your hand, you don't necessarily need that brawl because it's going

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to do the same thing she can do.

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Sisu I think is situational.

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If I'm playing against a deck that doesn't have very many cards in their hand, that's

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not going to do much for me.

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Two lore is nice.

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I'm not running the big Sisu.

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I don't need it as a shift line.

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Right.

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So she's just really good in early game against a deck that draws a lot of cards to keep my

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Flynn getting that three lore.

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So I think she can go depending.

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And what are the things you want to ink the least for the most part?

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Goat and Fox, I'd say.

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And goat's rough because you sometimes will ink it, especially if it's in your opening

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hand because it's just like, oh man, this isn't going to be good till like turn nine.

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Right.

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I don't want to ink friends if I can help it, but as we said earlier, I will if I'm

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playing a green player.

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Right.

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Totally makes sense.

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So I think when it comes to the ink plan, obviously the opponent's deck choice informs

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a lot of your play pattern on how you're inking cards.

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On the whole, you're trying to play to a curve.

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Green steel, obviously upending that a little bit because you want to retain things like

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brawl that don't add to the board.

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And you also aren't as interested in slapping down units on the board because you don't

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want to reduce your hand to willy nilly.

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Right against green steel, if I'm going to play a card on the board, most likely it's

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going to replace itself.

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And that makes a lot of sense.

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Like brawl against the mirror where you have a lot of overstatted characters loses its

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taste pretty quickly.

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Same with blue steel where they go Mr. Smee into Cogsworth.

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It's like, okay, I can't brawl any of this.

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So it loses its merits.

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But against green steel, it's like, I have to have this immediately to answer that first

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Diablo or I am in big trouble because when they Diablo, you play a rabbit, you feel like

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the worst Lor'Khan a player ever because you're letting them draw extra cards, but you have

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to find an answer.

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So it feels really bad.

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And it makes sense that the green steel matchup is the one that changes the game plan so drastically.

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Because I would say that is probably the toughest matchup for this deck.

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I think so.

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100% on the other side of the coin talking about another very common matchup.

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A lot of people are going to see set chances.

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The Ruby Sapphire control decks.

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So we're talking about the ramp style decks that play Hyrum on four, play one jump ahead

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on two or playing fishbone quill or now the dragon statues.

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This deck plays a little differently in your play style tends to have to adapt to that

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because now you're really good with your Flynn lines and like playing to the board, questing

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hard in the beginning of the game before they can assert control becomes much, much more

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important where you can't just put down brooms and Chernobog's followers as Willy nilly against

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the green steel decks.

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Yeah, I think against the Ruby Sapphire deck, your game plan is just get as much lore as

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you can before they get to the ink where they're throwing down their Tamatoas and their lucky

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dimes.

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Right.

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And I think the green steel matchup you play at your most conservative where you're playing

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the most like a control deck.

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I don't want to play anything until I start to answer, be king undisputed into Medusa's.

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That's when you want to start to play the game where against red blue, it's the opposite

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where you're unleashing the aggressive bent of the deck.

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I just want to slap down as much lore as I can as fast as I can and try to clean up the

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game with Queens castles.

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And I think for the most part, a lot of the other decks, whether it's the mirror, whether

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it's blue steel or steel song, any of these other decks that are common in the meta, I

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think you just tend to stick to your basic game plan, play on a good curve, play tightly,

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utilize removal, utilize card advantage.

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That's your character.

331
00:16:22,000 --> 00:16:23,000
Yeah.

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Like that's your game plan is the same for such a wide variety of decks that this also

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00:16:27,000 --> 00:16:31,520
makes an attractive choice for a set champs, especially for somebody who's not grinding

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games and none of us are grinding games as aggressively now with pixel born no longer

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operating.

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00:16:36,280 --> 00:16:38,000
We just don't have as many games under our belt.

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So being able to use a deck that largely enacts a proactive game plan and the same style of

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00:16:43,840 --> 00:16:48,920
game plan in the bulk of its games is really attractive because you get the play patterns

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00:16:48,920 --> 00:16:51,160
and the repetitions and everything under your belt.

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And then you start to be able to play a variety of ways against the decks that require a dramatic

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00:16:57,160 --> 00:17:03,160
shift in direction and play style, like the Ruby Sapphire decks and the Emerald steel

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decks.

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So it's really neat that this deck can offer up a lot of consistency in addition to a more

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attractive price tag.

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But whatever you end up playing at your set champs, remember you're there to have fun

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and to meet people and to grow the community.

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Communities never been more important than it is now.

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You don't have the option to just go, Oh, forget these people.

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I'm going to go play on the internet.

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It's a lot harder to do now.

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It's still very doable, but it's just become more difficult.

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It still requires a digital community.

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So it's really important to enjoy yourself, have fun, try not to gatekeep, try not to

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be that person who comes in and upsets a local meta.

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Just be fun, be excellent to each other as Bill and Ted would so often teach us.

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And remember the most obvious and most direct way to win a game of Lurkana is keep questing.