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% every single time. Welcome guys to episode
280 of Behind the Shield podcast. As always,
my name is James Gearing and this week I am so
excited to bring on the show... bethany hamilton
now what makes it even more amazing is that she's
about to embark on an international tour promoting
her new film unbreakable and i was able to catch
bethany right before she left the film in itself
i cannot recommend it enough i actually watched
it yesterday and i watched it again today not
only is bethany's story incredibly powerful but
also the cinematography is beautiful in this
film so you must watch that So in this conversation,
I want to explore the space between the lines.
Her story is being well documented, especially
some of the tragedy of her early life. But we
went into fitness, into nutrition, into her mindset,
what made her so successful not only as a youth
athlete, but then post -injury as an adaptive
athlete competing alongside non -adaptive athletes.
So it was an incredible conversation. I feel
that we covered a huge amount of topics in the
time that we had. Before we get to the interview,
as I always say, go to the podcast app that you
listen to this on and subscribe to the show.
Leave feedback. I love reading your feedback.
But most importantly, leave a rating. The more
five -star ratings we get, the more visible this
project is to people that are looking for it.
And then use your social media. This is a free
library of incredible people's life stories,
philosophies, work. And my goal is to get it
to the ear holes of everyone on planet Earth
that needs to hear it. And so that entails you,
the audience member as well. The more you share,
the more you tell people, the more this grows,
the more people learn and change their lives.
So with that being said, I introduce to you Bethany
Hamilton. Enjoy. Well, Bethany, I want to say
firstly, thank you so, so much for agreeing to
come on the Behind the Shield podcast at such
short notice. Yeah, no worries. Glad to be here.
And I want to say thank you to Eric Goodman,
Foundation Training founder, for connecting us.
Yep, I've been nerding out on Foundation lately.
So if y 'all are looking to get your health and
posture and body alignment functioning good,
I recommend checking it out. It's amazing. Absolutely.
All right. Well, I like to go chronologically.
Obviously, I know we've got a time constraint,
so I want to make my questions kind of short
and sweet. But just give me an overview of your
parents' background and then your childhood introduction
into surfing. Yeah. Well, I was born and raised
here in Kauai, Hawaii, where I still live. And
yeah, I think for a lot of people, it's natural.
They'll let the ocean be. kids playground especially
my parents um being that they were surfers and
i also had two older brothers who loved being
in the ocean as well so yeah i guess we spent
more time at the beach than the playground growing
up and it created like a just natural love for
the ocean and once i started surfing i just had
a knack for it and really loved it and Especially
as I got around the age of eight, I started catching
waves on my own and just really fell in love
with riding waves and the challenge and beauty
of it. I started to get competitive. My parents
were just super supportive of me along the journey
and just saw all the potential I had and kind
of cheered me on. Now, one thing I've talked
about with quite a few people from either a coaching
background or were athletes themselves is we
see a lot of parents living vicariously through
their children. So they put them in all these
baseball camps, for example. And a lot of these
kids are just – they're not going to get to that
highest level. And there's a certain point where
many of them even get burnt out or injured on
it. You, however, the anomaly, you're the athlete
that – just had that innate passion and that
innate skill and picked up that specific sport
so well. So looking back now, what was it about
you and surfing you think that was so different
than the average young boy or girl that takes
up surfing but just gets to a certain level?
Yeah, well, I think my parents were definitely
living vicariously through me. they also had
like a good healthy balance and they yeah they
just supported me in a way that was like cheering
me on but not like too forceful or too pushy
and they kind of let my natural drive be like
the leader so to say like from my vantage point
and then they were just there to get me to the
beach and Yeah, and then I think I definitely
had a lot of the natural drive to be really competitive
with it. And, you know, as much as I love surfing,
I also loved competing and still do today. I'm
just naturally competitive. So that kind of just
was kind of my driver or my leader for the sport.
Just to give you guys a background, I was winning
almost every event in my local community. And
then at 13, I was in the national championship
finals and finished second in 18 and under at
age 13 or 12, maybe. And so I was competing against
high school girls and it showed that I was just
going to be good. And so when I lost my arm,
that kind of made everyone question, including
myself. Yeah, well, so what I saw from, you know,
the leading up is, you know, you had this passion.
You also had this fearlessness. And then you
had, you know, the incident with, you know, with
the attack. Up to that point, the ocean was your
solitude, your safe space, you know, where you
connected with nature. What was that journey
like? to get back to trust the ocean again and
make it your your healing environment after you
know that one moment yeah i guess um yeah because
my world was flipped upside down and i i would
touch on too that like i didn't feel really angry
at god or i didn't feel angry um about the situation
but more i've immediately felt like just grateful
that i was alive and I knew that I could very
well have been dead. So I think that helped me
a lot rather than being caught up in just, you
know, anger and hate and just, yeah, just, I
think those emotions can really bring you down.
And especially when you're in a such life, life
altering circumstance, like. I just being grateful
kind of led me to just be more positive and just
be able to move forward. And I trusted and hope
that God had more for my life beyond that. And
even though it felt like really chaotic and not
sure what the future would hold, I just kind
of just kept trucking along. And then as I share
in my new documentary, Unstoppable, there's a
scene where. A guy named Mike Coots, who lost
his leg to a shark, was like, hey, I went surfing
this morning. It's totally possible to get up
with one arm. So he was kind of my first light
bulb of inspiration. And once he told me that,
I was determined to get back in the ocean. And
I guess my fear of sharks was not as great as
my fear of losing surfing. Yeah, well, you touched
on gratitude and that was another thing that
was poignant from the movie. And by the way,
for everyone listening, Unstoppable is not only
such an incredibly powerful story, you know,
of which the, you know, the attack is like a
minute blip in your true life story, but also
is so, so beautifully shot. But when post -injury,
when you talk about being grateful that it wasn't
your best friend Alana that was bitten. It really
underlined the power of gratitude. Rather than
looking at the one thing that you lost, you seemed
to focus on all the things that you still had.
Yeah, and I definitely did. And so as I started
surfing, once I popped up on my first wave, it
was like no turning back. And I was just on a
mission to be the best surfer I could be with
what I had. So, like we said before, I've had
many members on here of the adaptive community.
And obviously, you talk about your dad putting
the handle on so you're able to duck dive with
your first surfboard. But back then, that was
before what we're seeing now with the huge adaptive
athlete community. What was that physical journey
for you? Again, realizing that you have to change
the way your physicality is. finding ways to
do it rather than you know the word that that
you openly say you don't like the disabled word
where again you're focusing on what you can't
do but you apply what you can do yeah and i was
definitely all about just adapting and i i just
love the idea of like adapting because that has
to do with everyone regarding regardless of whether
you have a limb difference or a physical difference
it's just life dealing with the ups and downs
and the challenges and the painful times, um,
just being able to adopt through those and kind
of be resilient is so important. So, um, and
a lot of that has to do with just the mind, like
having a resilient and adapting mind. Um, cause
especially as you get older, like I noticed like
how the effects of being negative or, um, ungrateful
or just kind of like, Doubting myself or my abilities
is so powerful that it can just really hold us
back from being our best selves or loving those
around us well or being able to forgive those
when they make mistakes or forgive ourselves
when we make mistakes. Yeah, it can just be debilitating
having a poor mindset. Absolutely. Well, with
that, I mean, obviously, you've got the physical
side, the mental side, were there any kind of
types of therapy that you found work better,
you know, to bring you not only the journey out
of that initial event, but then creating a strong
mindset for your athletic career? Yeah, unfortunately,
well, maybe not, unfortunately, but I really
didn't do anything special. In my younger years,
I hardly even saw a therapist after I lost my
arm, maybe like two times. But I don't think
I suffered too much from like post -traumatic
stress stuff. So thankfully, I don't think that
was too much of an issue. But I think just being
in the ocean was really healing for me. And just
knowing that I could still do what I love to
do most. And, you know, being present. like the
ocean and riding waves in particular when you're
up and riding on a wave it's like the ultimate
form of just being present and doing what you're
doing so that was pretty yeah it just worked
out good for me and then now in my adult years
um just as an athlete and a surfer I I definitely
just kind of focus try to focus on my strengths
and I do a little bit of um just kind of mental
training like affirmation sort of stuff like
just meditating on my strengths and what I can
do and um yeah it seems to be helpful just kind
of believing that I can do you use any visualization
at all of the ways that you're gonna you know
anticipate getting um I wish I did more of that
I do kind of naturally I would say but like I
don't have like an intentional like visualization
time Right. Now, what about the breath hold training?
You know, you're featuring in the movie Carrying
the Rock Underneath, which looks kind of reminiscent
of some of Laird Hamilton's stuff. What does
your physical preparation look like to get to
the level that you're at? Yeah, I always joke
with people that I've been like training since
I was, you know, seven years old because I would
just go and like get pounded in the surf for
fun or. You know, we'd go to like natural lava
rock pools like with my dad a lot growing up.
And he and I would like try to swim as far as
we could underwater without taking a breath.
So it's just and then also like I would go shell
diving and just hold my breath while picking
shells underwater. So I did all these natural
like kind of playful training growing up. And
then all my girlfriends and I would go rock running
growing up. So now I'll just I still do some
of that stuff, but I'll also just do like normal
breath holding, like sitting on the couch or
if my husband's driving, like sitting in the
car, just holding my breath. Because he's a terrifying
driver. Is that for training? No, for training.
He's a pretty good driver. So thankfully. But
yeah, and then just a lot of cross training.
And I've changed a lot of how I do things now
that I've had two children and just being a lot
more gentle on my body. But I also still want
to be explosive. So just kind of getting creative
with that with different trainers. And I've been
dabbling with foundation and just trying to keep
the fluidity in my movement as well, though.
Like kind of, I don't know, a lot of the stuff
I do is like very. Has like dancer, kind of dancer
-esque sort of movements. Just because surfing,
you don't want to be rigid, but you want to be
flowing and kind of forget what the terms are.
There's terms for it all, but be like kinetic,
flowing movement throughout the whole body. Absolutely.
Well, you mentioned the children as well. So
a very kind of pertinent thing for me, a couple
of things. When you first got pregnant, you know,
as people will see when they watch the film,
there were some challenges in your performance.
But then when you were more heavily pregnant,
you noticed that actually you were surfing better.
So tell me about that experience because I think
that was a beautiful thing seeing you, you know,
I'm assuming you were probably six or seven months
by that point riding some of your best waves.
yeah it was interesting that wasn't definitely
not part of my plan to get better at surfing
while I was pregnant I guess a lot of people
there's a lot of different opinions about that
sort of stuff but growing up in Hawaii you're
always seeing pregnant women surfing like it's
kind of normal and um it's not much of a worry
um so yeah surfing was like surfing while I was
pregnant wasn't like really a question so to
say um but the cool thing was you know a lot
of people don't realize but I'm almost six foot
tall and um I'm pretty like really naturally
strong and then plus I cross train so I have
cross training strength and so I surf very strong
and kind of powerful and like heavy back footed
So when I was pregnant, it kind of forced me
to just kind of slow things down a bit and just
get more smooth, which was something I wanted
in my surfing. It was just hard to make myself
do. But being pregnant kind of just naturally
made me do that more. And then so that was kind
of how I got better in that, like, I just got
smoother and more flowing. um and then i try
to like keep that going after i got pregnant
too or once i had the baby just kind of keep
that natural approach just a bit more smooth
and flowing with the with the waves yeah and
it struck me as you know like you said that there
there's a you know polarizing opinions of that
but what i see um especially here in the u .s
at the moment is that it's deemed healthy to
put on 30, 40, 50 pounds during pregnancy and
not exercise, but it's deemed unhealthy to be
in the gym or on the water until you almost have
the child. And I personally think that's completely
backwards. Oh, my gosh. I was going to hold myself
back from saying some stuff like that. Go ahead.
A lot of pregnant women just eating whatever
they want just because they think, oh, I can
do whatever I want while I'm pregnant. But really,
you should be eating nourishing, nourishing healthy
foods for your body and for your baby. And these
so -called cravings shouldn't be the leader of
what you eat. rather what the best interest in
hand for your baby and for yourself while you're
growing a little human being and even that goes
into childhood too like you hear these comments
of like oh kids can get away with whatever eating
whatever but like they're in the most critical
development in the younger years so they should
be eating more nourishing and more healthy foods
than ever as children to grow a nourishing healthy
mind and body and just be a healthy human so
there's just like kind of a lot of like kind
of lame excuses out there that aren't good for
anyone yeah no i agree one of the things i'm
trying to i mean i'm not personally trying to
fix but hopefully being part of the tapestry
to fix it is is the food in the schools you know
this is the most crucial time to teach kids about
food and eating and cooking and we're kind of
screwing it up Oh, my gosh. That's amazing. I
love that you're doing that. My husband and I
are actually planning to homeschool our kids,
and I have all kinds of plans to educate them
really thoroughly in health. I mean, naturally,
they'll just learn because that's how we live
and eat, and that's our way of life. But I want
them to have all the knowledge behind it so that
they're driven in their own knowledge to take
care of themselves. young adults absolutely now
what are some of your philosophies nutrition
wise to perform the level that you do oh yeah
i mean um i just eat pretty whole foodie and
um we eat like grass -fed and humanely raised
animal and um i personally have been eating like
a lot of bone broth and just a lot of veggies
and um some Kind of like, what do you call them?
Squashes and sweet potatoes and stuff like that.
Not too much green. Yeah, it's interesting just
kind of going into adulthood as a woman. It feels
harder to kind of just be really slim or whatever,
even with the amount that I move. So I feel like
I'm always trying to work out what's best for
me. And energy -wise, too. I just do so much
and I know that I'm pushing my body more than
the average kind of human. And so finding ways
to support it the best I can that empower me
to have good energy and good recovery and strength.
Right. Well, you also in the film start realizing
areas of surfing, which is a very broad spectrum
of styles. that you want to improve on which
I thought was phenomenal because you didn't just
stay in your lane and I mean that in a positive
way but you realized that there was aerial and
big wave and barrel and all these other specialties
that you wanted to conquer you wanted to add
yet another layer to your already incredible
surfing so was there like a pivotal moment that
started that thought process or was it kind of
again from that little eight -year -old girl?
Yeah, I mean, ever since I was a young girl,
I think I started doing my first airs when I
was 12. And I was also going for barely waves
at that age and big waves. So I think I've always
wanted to just be a really well -rounded surfer
and kind of push myself in all aspects. it just
keeps it really fun too and like not boring like
when you just focus on you know I love actually
surfing little waves too and like trying to push
myself in little waves and like to perform well
um but I also love huge waves like I just I love
it all and I love being able to kind of push
myself in all areas whatever the ocean provides
then we just go for it and like have fun with
it um so it was cool like Being in the filmmaking
space, we allowed more freedom to just have the
time to put the energy and focus on all these
different aspects, whereas otherwise I would
have been having to do other work stuff that
would pull from my focus. Making the film just
provided that open space to really work hard
and push myself in all the different areas of
surfing. Yeah, it was just so much fun. I just,
you know, like for me, it wasn't definitely,
it wasn't about making the film, but it was just
like, oh yeah, let's make the film so I can go
on surf trips. And then even like, like a lot
of my drive after have, once I found out I was
pregnant, I was like, well, should we do this
film? And I was like, well, I just want to have
like the motivation to keep surfing and pushing
myself after I have the baby. So yeah, let's
keep doing the film. Another thing that really
struck me about the film is you were very vulnerable
and honest in the storytelling of it. And there
was that moment when you had Tobias where you
struggled with the surfing. you know you're surfing
tracked and and motherhood and i thought that
was probably a crossroads that a lot of you know
moms and dads find themselves where yeah of course
a child is as you know now completely changes
the way you look at life and you know even like
time management and that kind of thing so what
was that experience for you like oh it's definitely
a big adjustment phase and kind of um just finding
the balance is still to this day a continual
thing and um But like it's cool with professional
surfing, like my kids can come to the beach with
me or they can kind of distract me from my gym
focus. And I don't mind that. And I like having
them just be a part of my life and be in kind
of the thick of it all. And they travel with
us a lot, too, or they travel with us everywhere
just about. So I just love kind of incorporating
them into our world. You know, we'll do kids
stuff, but they also come along for a mom and
dad at a time. So, yeah, I think it just makes
for a really special upbringing. And if they
couldn't be a part of it, I probably wouldn't
want to do it all or do as much as I'm doing.
But thankfully, like my husband and I, we just
we teamwork everything we do. We have kind of
a lot of different facets going on from just,
you know, I do some. motivational speaking I
do endorsements and now we've launched our own
online e -course for empowering people to live
their unstoppable life and so we have a lot of
different things going on and then this year
I'm going to be competing full -time on the world
qualifying series as well so there's just a lot
kind of on our plate but we just kind of like
pass the kids back and forth and we have a lot
of family who live nearby so we can drop the
kids with grandpa and grandma here and there
and Yeah, it works out good. So I just love being
able to share life super thoroughly with them.
And I want to raise my kids. I don't want someone
else raising my kids. So I'm thankful that I
can. That is amazing. And it's a very sad thing,
kind of like the pregnancy thing we were talking
about earlier, when you also hear someone say,
well, we have kids now, so we can't travel anymore.
Whatever it is, I can't pursue this dream anymore.
And that's so wrong. You can engineer so many
situations where you can. It may not be all the
time, but my little boy, who you're going to
meet in a minute, which is brilliant, because
you're definitely one of his heroes, he's been
all around the world. I mean, the first time
he was six weeks old when I took him home back
to England. But yeah, I mean, there's no better
way of giving a child a grounding of, you know,
the humans that inhabit this planet with us than
to take them around the world and show them all
these other cultures. Yeah, it really is special.
Yeah, my four -year -old has spent most of his
birthdays internationally. And he does great
with other kids, but he also has a really great
ability to interact with adults and just people
of all different backgrounds. So it's cool to
just see how he is developing in such a beautiful
way to be just an awesome human. Absolutely.
Well, you mentioned the Unstoppable Year. So
let's talk about that for a moment. What made
you come up with that platform and tell people
exactly what it is? Yeah, well, I've always loved
like just encouraging other people. And often
I've done that through storytelling, my book
and now my films. And then also, I'm pretty present
on social media, but I also don't really like
social media that much. I just think it's a really
dark and kind of awful place for a lot of people.
And they don't really know why and they don't
know how to set that boundaries for themselves
to kind of, yeah, just recognize that social
media has a really dark impact maybe for a lot
of them. So and I also felt like it's very shallow
and I just kind of wanted to create a space that
was a really safe because I speak to a lot of
young people. And so I want it to be a safe and
healthy place for kids. So the Unstoppable Course,
we wanted to create that and just empower them,
but also equip them to live an unstoppable life
and to recognize that they can overcome and to
empower them to just be thoughtful humans in
the way they live their life. And so we talk
about mindset, slowing themselves down and being
present, how to overcome obstacles. how to live
passionately, uh, how to live healthily and kind
of, it's like this ultimate kind of package of
like, it's a year long course too. So it takes
to me to have like true change takes time. So
yeah, we're just empowering them through a long
year of like really encouraging them in their
journey. And, um, it's been really fun so far
cause I've just like hearing the feedback, um,
people are. are definitely going to finish the
year with their lives being changed. So that's
a big goal of mine is just to change people's
lives in a real way that actually is long lasting.
Brilliant. Well, I've got my little boy. starting
on this so i will let you know how he does he's
he's definitely had some of the challenges you
know with that a lot of you know young kids these
days especially with like you said social media
and then you know some of the the dangers in
the schools um there are some stresses on him
so it's so great that he has someone you know
who he respects that he can you know watch every
day and you mentioned about having other other
inspirational people on there as well and just
give a positive platform that your kids can go
to and maybe you know on a daily basis or even
if they're not having such a great day they can
go back and listen to some of them again yeah
and then we do like the live q and a's so they
can like kind of see us each month and ask questions
and just kind of get deeper on some of the topics
that maybe they're struggling with more than
the other topic. And yeah, it's really fun. I
love being able to do what I do. And on top of
that, still be surfing and mommying and wife
and yeah, just valuing my family time and travel.
And yeah, we're kind of doing a lot of like ultimate,
ultimate living. Absolutely. Well, another area
that you kind of touch on, you just certainly
don't, you know, like preach too much about it
but faith is obviously a very important thing
to you so you know how has that factored into
certain areas of your life oh yeah for sure um
i i mean definitely when i lost my arm like i
already believed in god and i believe that like
i understood that like the world wasn't a perfect
place and that i didn't expect my life to be
perfect either um so when i lost my arm i think
a lot of that kind of led me to be positive and
be thankful that I was alive and living and,
and to be hopeful that there was more than this
current chaos that I was facing. And then even
to this day, like still, yeah. And just like
my Christian faith has definitely taught me a
lot about forgiveness too, because God forever
forgives us no matter what we're. how awful we
may be and I think like in the marriage relationship
especially like being able to forgive your spouse
or you know ask them to forgive you is like so
so key and so it's kind of been a strong point
for my husband and even though we've only been
married now for like we're coming up on our seventh
anniversary but um yeah we're going strong and
we love each other and we love doing life with
each other so I feel thankful to like my faith
for that. And, um, yeah, it carries a lot into
parenthood too. And yeah, just overcoming hard
times. So, yeah. Well, and also what I've seen,
you know, from the outside looking in as your.
You're interpreting your faith, you know, in
a very, very positive way with the gratitude,
the compassion and the kindness. And, you know,
that I think is what no matter what people's
faith are, if that's the core of what you believe
and what you do, then you, you know, you have
an incredible faith. Thank you. So I got one
more question for you. And then, you know, I'm
going to grab my son and then we'll let you go.
The entire film, there is so much that you're
doing. that scare a lot of people watching, whether
it's the little girl jumping off the pier or
obviously the attack or, you know, the incredible
waves that you, that you were surfing, despite,
you know, getting smashed into the rocks. What
do you do to overcome fear when you are, you
know, in an environment that actually you find
yourself actually scared at that moment? Oh gosh,
maybe, I don't know. I would say like, Dealing
with fear kind of comes really natural to me.
I don't overthink it, but maybe I kind of face
it and just acknowledge that I feel fearful.
And then from there, I either just head on, go
for it, or I don't know, take some breathe. I
mean, when it's in the ocean, I breathe and just
kind of talk to myself like, you got this. you've
trained a lifetime for moments like this so because
it kind of I realized that it takes a lot of
like kind of ocean power to get me feeling really
afraid um but I don't know I pray pray about
it and just ask God to help me or I'll talk to
my husband about it um I think just talking about
fear is helpful and like getting another kind
of um someone you trust like to kind of dig into
it um it's cool but yeah I don't know if that'll
be helpful for anyone but um yeah just try not
to let the fear stop me from going for it and
thankfully like I'm surfing today at a professional
level and I could have very much have let like
fear stopped me so I'm thankful I didn't let
it stop me from surfing and doing the thing I
love to do the most Absolutely. So just to kind
of look at the subtext, the fear is diminished
because you have so much faith in your ability
and the training that you've put in. Yeah. And
I think too, just being able to kind of recognize
it and know that it's there, but like kind of
almost like let it. drive me gotcha brilliant
all right well um i'll do i'll ask you this question
and i'll go grab my son after we're done what
i'll make sure that everyone listening those
were to find you know that all the stuff online
so um so you've got the the film has come out
it's been out in america since june i think it
was an incredible film i tell everyone listening
you need to watch this this film um then you
have the unstoppable year where can people find
you and all this content online Awesome, thank
you. Yeah, Unstoppable is out. Unstoppable, my
documentary, is now out. It's going to be online
on Netflix and all the online spaces, so you
can watch it from your couch, because I personally
am too lazy to go to the theater. And I was in
the theater for a short time, so that was cool.
And then it's actually going to be releasing
internationally this year, so I'm excited about
that. Otherwise, you can find me at BethanyHamilton
.com or at Bethany on social. So, yeah, thanks
to everyone for hearing me out.