If you haven't heard about menopause and skin,
you're living under a rock. Today, we're talking
about how menopause changes skin and maybe not
your skin, but your 40 plus clients skin and
what you can do to better support them. Thanks
for joining. I'm Doreen, brand and content strategist
and former esthetician. And I'm Suzanne, Sadeska
Certified Esthetician with over 30 years, former
spa owner and now educator mentor to beauty pros.
So today, Suzanne, we're talking about a subject
that is everywhere. It's in all my feed and everywhere
I turn, which is perimenopause and menopause.
If our listeners or viewers are maybe under the
age of 40, they may not be getting this information,
actually, because perimenopause basically starts
in your early 40s, right? And then from there,
we get into menopause. And like everything that
happens to us women, it's going to affect our
skin. But before we get kind of really into what
happens to the skin, Maybe we can just talk a
little bit more about what menopause is so that
it's just a little easier for our listeners to
understand. So I know a lot of people say, oh,
it can happen earlier than 40. Fun fact, it's
only 1 % are affected under 40. So it's not as
big as what people think it is. It could be the
beginning, for sure, starting it, maybe just
hovering it, especially if you've had kids, things
like that, hormone imbalances. But it's typically
that 40 to 44. And when people look at it, it's
after you've stopped menstruating for 12 months,
then you're considered. That's their scientific
definition, I guess you could say. So I just
want to clarify a little bit. So there's the
term perimenopause, and perimenopause is actually
the things that happen to you before you go into
menopause. And in perimenopause, which usually
typically starts in your early 40s, you start
to notice some changes, but you're still getting
your period. It might be a little bit more irregular.
And you might start to notice the changes in
your skin in perimenopause. But menopause itself
is like a moment in time. It's like the day that
it's been 12 months since you've had your period.
And I think anything after that day is called
post -menopause. But I think in general speaking,
sometimes people talk about menopause is an umbrella
term that includes perimenopause, menopause and
post -menopause. And I think for the sake of
this episode if we're saying menopause we are
using it in that broad term to include perimenopause
and post menopause as well just because it's
easier because the changes that are happening
you know they they kind of go all the way through
and menopause can last up to 10 years so if you're
not in your 40s this is something to look forward
to so exciting for you guys But it's true because
then if you understand this, especially for skin
care technicians or body care technicians, the
skin is the biggest part that's impacted with
everything else. But it's really understanding
what happens because so many people say, I don't
know what happened this year. It was like, boom,
it just hit. Everything's falling apart. My body,
my skin, my hair, my nails. And that's when they
awaken to see it. But it really, like you said,
did start sooner. It's just a very slow process.
And then I feel like you just fall off a cliff
and you get up and go, what happened? How'd that
happen? It's kind of what it feels like, I think.
But really, the big thing of it all is the decrease
of estrogen that happens. And then it's a very
slow decline. and then all of a sudden it could
be medical procedures, it could be medications,
it could be a lot of things that cause it to
just, it's ended drastically like that. But then
we know when that happens, it decreases lots
of things, but we're talking skin, it's going
to decrease your elastin collagen production.
So that's where you're going to start to see
the firmness start to loosen a lot quicker. And
that ends up being just body wise. Like people,
it's not just the skin, it's the face. People
start to notice, you know, going on with my neck
or the back of my arms or my tummy, my inner
thighs, or there's like this decrease of elasticity
and you see a little more wrinkles. um it looks
like dehydration sagginess yeah thinner skin
maybe more sensitive like the cheeks are a little
more sensitive than you've ever had in your life
right as all of a sudden why am i so rosy you
know there's a lot of things the dryness the
dehydration yeah there's a lot of also hyperpigmentation
and acne because you know why not kick you when
you're down but i think too like this is important
to note for any service provider, because if
you're a wax tech and your older clients come
in, they're going to have thinner, drier skin,
you need to take precautions. You need to make
sure you're holding that skin real nice and tight,
maybe a bit more than your younger clients, but
also ensuring you're avoiding lifting and all
that. And then the sensitivity, right? They can
all of a sudden become more sensitive. I've had
people reach out saying, you know, I've been
waxing my client for years and now she's red.
Her legs are red. What's going on? And I said,
how old is she? I was asked, is there hormone
changes happening? What's going on with her?
And that's why we brought this topic up, because
it does reflect the whole beauty industry, all
services, really. And one thing we talked about
was, you know, I don't think any of us have on
the intake form. Are you in perimenopause? Maybe
you do. I don't know. But a lot of times if you
have an age or a birthdate for your client, you
can kind of guess their age. Depending on how
long you've been with your client or your client
has been with you, there could be that established
relationship and rapport where you can start
asking questions. I think at that point, your
clients will ask you questions too, being like,
I've been noticing my skin's like a lot more
sensitive or a lot drier. And then obviously
we're not doctors and can't prescribe, but you
can just bring it up as a, have you thought of,
you know, perimenopause or menopause? I actually
always brought it up. It was a conversation because
the hormone changes, you know, it affects everything.
Like you said, waxing the skin. For sure, hair
growth, there's a lot of factors involved, right?
But it's the way you can ask to say, you know,
because you know the birth date of the person.
So if they're in their late 30s, early 40s, I
said, how have you been feeling? Anything changing?
How's the hormone levels? Like, are you sleeping
well? Just ask those things because then it could
affect or it could be why there's the breakouts
or reactions with products or you know and some
will just say oh yeah I am definitely going through
menopause right now it's like okay so what have
you what have you experienced how's your products
at home can you do the same thing what about
your hair like ask those questions because those
are all the more information you have a little
bit about without being abrasive into it especially
if you just met the person it's just ask a few
questions you ask permission do you mind if I
ask you a few more questions just so I make the
right choices Right because some of these can
be misdiagnosed as seasonal changes like especially
dryness and sensitivity and stuff like that,
right? So it is important to just know in your
head in your own mind and for your client, but
Does it? Whether it's seasonal or hormone related
does that change how we treat or what services
we would provide our client You would think yes
Why don't you tell us? Yes it would. So I always
like especially when you've had a client for
a long time or quite a while the worst thing
we can do is assume you did something on them
years ago that you can still do today because
it changes everything so if they're starting
to notice changes like this again we're not doctors
have you been diagnosed by the doctor with this
yet or get that information that you can otherwise
you start off basic level again, because you
don't want to irritate their skin. So you start
off with that low intensity. Think of it like
you're not going to go all crazy on them, especially
if they've told you they've been noticing these
things. We don't know if it's menopause or pre
-menopause. We're not sure, right? And sometimes
the doctors will just look at them and say, yeah,
you're not there. You're too young for that.
And they just shoo them away. But yet, as we
know, it can be 10 years of this change without
it really being medically diagnosed, right? Also,
that's a note is that you can't medically die.
It's hard to medically diagnose if you're in
perimenopause because of the change in estrogen
levels. Yeah, unless they did hormone actual
testing and stuff. Yeah, which they're not going
to do because they're not probably going to do
it. Most people won't like we should say most
people won't have that done. So really, it's
just a conversation that I think we know our
own bodies and your client, especially if you've
been seeing them, they're going to be sharing.
Trust me, they are going to share. Like sometimes
I'll say, Hey, so what about genetically? Like,
did your mom go through it at a certain age and
aunt and, you know, like cousin, sister, whatever
it may be, is there someone you can kind of see
that the chances are probably that's what's happening
to you too. So then just take it back to, okay,
let's look at the barrier of the skin. Let's
look at the hydration because those are key.
to make sure they stay stable and strong barrier,
good hydration, good lipid barrier level in the
skin. So you're starting out simple, right? I
mean that should be the start point of almost
all skincare because then everything else will
come along very well and you get better results
with. But basically hydration facial, hydrating
products like your hyaluronic acids or help with
the plumping maintain that health of the skin.
When it comes to exfoliation, it's like, you
were doing three times a week, let's just cut
it back so your skin doesn't get irritated. Let's
try two times a week. Maybe you do an enzyme
peel instead of a granule or your salicylics
that you have in cleansers. You have to start
looking at how to scale back a little bit so
it doesn't have that big, oh my God, this isn't
working. I've got big changes happening from
that last treatment, right? LEDs are great, your
red light, your infrareds, those are always a
great add -on to your, I don't mean upsell them,
I'm just saying in the treatment itself. Have
you looked at lymphatic drainage in your massage
techniques or do they do washes at home to help
with the soothing and calming side of things?
So that low intensity, think of that first step
and then you can kind of start seeing, especially
if they did have a big change in skin. because
all of a sudden it happens like oh my god you
know i don't know what's going on this first
winter it's like i'm dry i'm cracking it can
be that drastic all of a sudden and they've not
necessarily been diagnosed like they are in menopause
right um and it's okay to not think that you
have to go to that advanced level of treatments
it's like okay let's scale it back a bit let's
just make sure and you tell them why behind it
so really you're thinking about um you know alternatives
to retinols that act like a retinal but not irritating
like a retinal um with products that are are
you talking about like products that are going
to complement your your low intensity treatments
yes or you're using it on them too i think that
is very hard for us that um as professionals
we feel like okay you're at a medium level peel
we can't go back down You know, like I've had
that conversation with people I said why can't
you? Why can't you just ease off and go back
to that base level? Why do we think we have to
keep doing more and more and more and more to
get results? Not necessarily the case, right?
Yeah And I think though there is on that like
there is pressure from clients because you know
They're noticing the changes and they want firm
skin and they want you know, so it can be that
pressure coming from clients but if you explain
why and that we're gonna get there we're just
gonna take a different let's just try this first
and the next time let's look at you know at home
you're gonna switch and do this now with your
products let's change your regime up a little
bit it's not necessarily you're selling them
anything new maybe just got to change it a little
bit and then maybe the next time you can see
if the skin can tolerate more things um a medium
intensity and that's when you can get into your
um mandalic acids or some chemical peels, I guess
you could say. But think of sensitive still,
and not for a long period of time. I would still
consider it just base level and see how they
start responding to it. You know, maybe it's
microcurrents. There is also the, before you
get any further to medium intensity, I think
with the low intensity in replacing the retinol,
right, because a lot of clients are going to
want retinol. Yes, yes. Because we've heard and
heard and heard that, you know, that's the thing
to use. There's a more, there's a natural alternative
to retinol that's a little. They're on the skin.
It's coming out in the last, I'd say probably
this year is when I've noticed it coming out
and some brands are now focusing their whole
one line just around this too. And I don't know
if I'm going to say it right, but it's the Bakuchio.
Did I say it right to you? Yeah. I'll put it
up on the screen. Yeah. Bakuchio. Bakuchio. Yeah.
It's a natural from a plant that's natural. and
it acts like a retinol without the irritation
of it. It's kind of like when people go, oh,
I really want glycolic, but, well, it's an AHA,
but you can do a PHA instead. You don't have
the same reactiveness of it. So sometimes if
you explain to them, hey, listen, I know you
love your retinols, but right now we just gotta
perk that. Let's try this, because we know it
won't irritate, and you're still gonna get the
firmness. Results like the wrinkles you're still
gonna get those outcomes, but you just kind of
switch the ingredient a little bit, too Yeah,
this is why it's so amazing that you know this
industry. There's always something new There's
always research and all this stuff that's always
coming out. So it's good to kind of keep your
yeah finger on the pulse of I don't know why
education is important to keep going I know what's
coming and what's out there so that you can also
better serve your client or maybe you're fortunate
enough that you're with a brand that they come
out every year with something a little bit different
yeah it is more improved a different ingredient
so they start looking at it and the thing is
too is that people are wanting more I don't want
to say natural but that holistic side instead
of it being machines and chemicals and all this
harsh stuff to the face, they're looking at more
the holistic lymphatic drainage, the guachas,
the softer ingredients, less irritants, that
type of thing. So I think that's why you're seeing
more of that switch too. Yeah, because that goes
more with the instead of anti -aging, we're pro
-aging. You know, it's like just aging. We know
we're aging, but let's slow it down. Slow it
down. yeah it's inevitable um yeah and then if
you if they're ready for that medium as i was
getting into that's where you think again like
i said that mild chemical peels uh microcurrents
for the firmness ultrasonic or radio frequency
is really great non -aggressive nothing too much
you know your ingredients like a lot of the ingredients
you can use throughout but you know you just
want to watch for intensity so Nicetamide, I
mean, has had a big shout out in the last couple
years for sure that is anti -inflammatory. It's
brightening. It strengthens the barrier of the
skin. You know, there's calming agents. We've
done a whole episode on it. Yes. Yes, you did.
You know, think of calming agents, your allantones
and your pathinols, like that type of thing.
There's ebola. Because when you start adding
intensity, you want to bring the calm to it too.
So you kind of like have the skin not react to
this intense it's like oh here i'm going to do
this but now we'll just add this to calm it down
again right so it's kind of that back and forth
again there's uh ceramides are really great too
right because they're um basically they're critical
for the barrier of the skin as well if you're
going to get into advanced um this is case by
case sometimes you're going to see it on a medical
side potentially or, you know, general microneedling
of what we can do as estheticians at our level.
But you still want to look at, you know, afterwards
to calm that skin down. Don't allow it to be,
yes, you're going to be pink because we just
stimulate circulation, that type of thing, but
it shouldn't be that they're pink for days and
red hot. And if you haven't been paying attention
of the changes of microneedling in this last
year, you need to get out there, start looking.
I actually can go on a blog that Beauty Call
Canada put out not long ago about it. There's
a lot of changes with the microneedling and they're
discovering a lot more things that what we should
do and what we shouldn't do or why we do. I'll
link that in the description. Yeah, exactly.
You know, then the medical side, laser rejuvenation,
like all those types of things for sure, medium
depth chemical peels, but that's if they have
a very strong barrier, healthy barrier. thicker
skin you know as we get older you tend to have
a thinner skin so just because you could have
medium peels in your 30s that doesn't mean you
can have them in your 50s so you have to educate
your clients and and help them understand it's
it's good because we're giving you what your
skin needs today you know it's not what you got
20 years ago or 10 years ago or even five years
ago but again Always I'm always about the calming
agent just to kind of fool the skin to say just
calm down. It's okay We got it gonna relax. You're
gonna hydrate. We're gonna soothe make sure we
didn't do anything to the barrier So some peptides
there minutes that ceramides that type of thing,
right? I think I think if that's why we look
at it. How do we re calm the skin down? Like
my goal is always that any treatment I do if
I can help it they're not leaving hot red face,
especially if they're menopause. They don't want
to have a red hot face when they're done because
sometimes they have hot flashes. So if they have
the hot flashes and you're already red, they're
going to get hotter and redder. So that's why
we want to try to look at bringing things down
a little bit more calming effect in that. Yeah,
that makes sense. I love it. I mean, and again,
I think it might not be happening to you, but
coming. It's gonna, it's gonna. But you know,
you can, you know, be aware of it and to help
your clients. And also that curiosity and problem
solving when it comes to supporting your clients.
If you have any questions for us or suggestions
for topics in the future, let us know. We're
always open to suggestions. Thanks for listening
to Beauty Babble.