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do you actually judge the peel on the percentage as an active ingredient? So you want to ensure that

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you realize the pH is the actual main key behind your peels. Hi there, welcome to Beauty Babble.

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My name is Suzanne, I'll be your host today. We are going to dive into everything you need to know

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about facial peels, to peel or not to peel basically, and peels in general. So there's a lot of people

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doing different things with their peels and that and I want you to consider, I don't know if you've

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ever watched that series Sex in the City, but it comes to mind when Samantha went off to do a peel

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before a special event that I think it's Carrie that was going to, she invited her to. Anyways,

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well it went very very wrong and then back then when that came out there was a lot of people,

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I remember very scared of chemical peels thanks to Samantha and the show, but it was a good kind of

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awakening for people and this is just a friendly reminder to remind your clients because now they

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have exposure to so much more over the counter, buying online, jumping from establishment to

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establishment so you don't really know what your clients are up to sometimes. So really make sure

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you're digging into it, but you know the biggest thing about this image you see, I know it's not

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the best image, but it's the one I could kind of find because again this is going back some time ago,

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but you can see it's you know raw and red and painful and it doesn't have to always be like that.

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So you want to think about maybe the steps involved and know your client and how to begin

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offering, maybe you haven't done this yet and you're not offering the services yet.

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So doing the research, learning about it and the product knowledge of which line you are choosing

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is imperative too and be careful not to mix and match your product lines, find out from your

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distributor if that's even possible and what their thoughts are on that too. Remember you're not

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the scientists that develop the product or the researcher I guess you could say.

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So the first one, superficial light, you can think of that as your lunchtime peel, there's

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really no downtime, it's just for brightening, maybe smooth out texture a little bit. It's very,

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very mild in even if they had a little bit of sun damage, but very, very mild, it's not going to go

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that deep. It's really about smoothing out the skin, brightening the skin. This is great for

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special events or starting the pretreatment, maybe they're looking at diving into wanting to do more

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chemical peels or you are wanting your client to do it. So sometimes starting out with a light

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superficial one is a nice way to go as well. The medium, this is a medium depth we'll call it,

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now the recovery is a little bit different. Definitely it's going to go a lot more into the

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skin. This is where it's going to work with the discolouring of the skin pigmentation,

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H-spot or possibly acne scars, whether it's actually the scarring of the tissue or the

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color discoloration in the skin as well. Fine to moderate wrinkle level and this will definitely

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require some downtime on that. So ensure that you are telling your clients a little bit more about it.

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So that thicker kind of skin shallow scars, nothing too or maybe they're newer scars.

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They've just had acne and just clearing up. They haven't been established for like 10 years

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or something like that or 20 years. The next one is your deep layer. Now this is a lot more,

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think of this as your drastic results. This is where you're diving into more. This is probably

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where you're going to have your medical practitioner working or medical esthetician working on the client,

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medical D-spot, doctor's office, that type of thing. Not everyone should have their hands on a deep

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or even for that matter, a medium one, but definitely the deep is definitely going to be

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different. It's going to penetrate quite deep into the skin and there is a requirement for sure

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of pre-treatments before doing any of this to prepare the skin. Again, the doctor will

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let the client know what's going on with that or your own education on what you learned on that,

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on the protocols before using the product you're using on the skin. Again, this is for damaged skin

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deep, deep layers. So some things to consider if you are new to Peeals is do you actually judge

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the peel on the percentage as an active ingredient? So you want to ensure that you realize the pH is

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the actual main key behind your peels. So if you had, think of your skin is between 4 and 6 pH 5.5

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roughly, that if it's a higher than 7 you're now moving into alkaline. So if you have an acne client,

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this is not a good place to go because there's more bacterial grounds for breeding in that component

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if you wish. So you want to make sure that you're looking at closer to their pH level and more in

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the acidic side, definitely for acne skins. And when you look at some things to consider after a peel,

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do you always have to peel? Does your skin need to shed like that? Yes, some people will shed this way,

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depending on the peel, but also depends what they've been doing prior to the peel. So if you have a client

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who's diligent on exfoliating and they've been doing other treatments that you know are removing

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dead skin cells, the likelihood of them peeling like this on a regular peel is probably not going to

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be very much because don't think that it's just not working because you don't see these results.

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Sometimes you know, I feel like I'm picking on TikTok, I don't mean to, but it's such a big thing,

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social platform these days. And you're seeing these extreme cases, I feel, and you want to make sure

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that you're looking at all the facts, use your education and understand what the skin at what

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level it's at. Are they derma planning? Are they waxing? You know, did they just have a glycolic

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treatment with you? A mild AHA peel? Are they doing vitamin C treatments? Like there's so many

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factors that are creating that small exfoliation to the skin is how much is really going to be

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peeling off the skin. So sometimes to exfoliate, you don't have to do the extreme unless you're

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looking at extreme measures with their skin. They have deep, deep scarring, deep, deep pigmentation,

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melasma, like that type of thing, hyperpigmentation is very deep. Then you might have to consider

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going a lot longer. You know, technically, depending on what you're doing with them, you could be doing

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this every two weeks, a light one to sort of build up to that and then slowly leaving it on longer,

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coming in more often. But again, you want to build this up so the skin doesn't have this negative

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response to it. Because basically, when you're peeling, you are offering a slight, the word I'm

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looking for, like an injury to the skin. So that's promoting the cell renewal to heal. And that's

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the point behind it is to produce the cell renewal and to kickstart and get it going again.

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Now, a couple other things to consider is when's the best time. So think of

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the weather. When is the best time to be doing these treatments? So you want to consider where do

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you live or where do your clients live? Do they go away in the winter? What are they doing in the

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summer months? Are they outside all the time? The one thing that I would really recommend,

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and hopefully they're ready doing sunblock, is that they're daily using sunblock and wearing

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hats. So if you are doing peels, recommend the visors. I know it might look silly, but it's really

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the point of doing these treatments is to help the skin. And if they're getting exposure of the

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elements of our weather, whether it's UV, strong winds, the cold, the heat, that type of thing,

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you want to make sure that they are using sunblock all the time and potentially sun hats,

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not just a cap, but or there's these visors that are actually UV protected as well.

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Time of the year, again, typically it's that late autumn, early spring before the summer comes,

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but it really depends on where you live. I mean, everyone's a little bit different.

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This is where we kind of navigate to in our climate here in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada.

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And it still depends on our falls. If we're out in the summer, we have a beautiful fall,

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it drives people to walk more, be outside more. They're exposed to it. So introduce and tell them

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like a plan, say, okay, we're going to start this in the fall. Now's a great time. It's to

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start discussing their fall treatment. We're in the summer right now. What are you willing to do

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to ensure that you're safe? I need to know that you're going to be safe. With your skin,

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a russet defeats the purpose of doing any of this as well. And it can make it worse as well.

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So when we look at peels, I want you, there's a few things to consider. So chemical peels,

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you know, they are, you can think of them as three categories. They're kind of touched on this.

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They're superficial peels penetrate the epidermis only. So that upper part. And then the medium

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deep peels damage the entire epidermis and the papillary dermis area. Whereas the deep,

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you're going into that very, very deep area in the rectal dermis, which basically is hitting,

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when you say mid area of the dermis, that's the bottom layer of the dermis.

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That's how deep this goes. And this is why it's important to understand the medical side

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when you're using these strong peels. So you want to look at the factors involved.

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Consider, you know, the skin of the client. What are their conditions, general depth,

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how far are we going with these peels? And, you know, what's the healing time with the

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downtime? How is this going to affect the client's life itself? And, you know, with this, you want to

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consider the plan. So always make a plan with your clients so that they know what to expect

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is really important. So the chemicals are applied and the concentrations, the mode of the application,

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like how are you doing this, and the skin type and conditions are really important.

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In general, the depth of that peel determines the patient's, you know, inconvenience during and

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after the treatment. So that's why I say make a plan. And the healing time, the rate of the

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potential adverse effects as well as the results. And this is taken right from Cleveland Medical

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and MedSkeep. That's why I quoted that area. But I liked how they said that very, very specifically.

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Okay, skin structure. So when we look at the epidermis, we know there's five layers in there.

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And we know that the epidermis is also a protective barrier. So we do want to consider

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how deep we're going and why is it necessary to go to medium to deep with your clients.

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So take into consideration just because others are doing a deep peel, doesn't mean that everybody

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requires it. So keep that in mind when you're thinking of the layers of the skin.

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So when you look at the stratum basal or the stratum corneum area, you want to look at that

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area specific because this is where you're starting to touch on your peels with. So your

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dermis is that live area. It's the nourishment to the bottom of the epidermis, your fibroblasts,

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and your lastin and collagen is about 70% of your skin. And by the time the cells reach the

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stratum corneum, they're no longer living. So this is why we're trying to exfoliate and

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remove those. We keep penetrating and pushing and stimulating that production of the fibroblasts

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in the cells. As we age, yes, we know this slows down. So we want to give it that pick-me-up. On

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average, though, we know it's about 30 days. So four to six weeks. And that's why we recommend

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the treatment support is six weeks apart. Just as a reminder again, stratum corneum is your brick

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and layer. So think about that. And it is an essential role for the barrier to protect the skin.

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And it does aid in hydration. So monitoring and really understanding the need of your client and

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why. Figure out the why to your chemical peel. Does your client need it? We've had clients asking

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for them. And the first thing you ask why, what are your goals? What are you looking for? Because

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visually, I can see there's no scarring. They have small pores. Their friend did it. There's someone

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else. They had great results. Oh, well, what was their skin like? And they had pigmentation. They

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had scarring. They had other issues. Don't say no to the peel, but you can guide them into let's

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start here. And maybe you're going to do superficial to medium and tell them why you feel you need to

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start there. Again, if I keep stressing that part of it, it's not for everybody. So and as a

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esthetician, faceless skin care professional, medical esthetician, you don't always have to do

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deep peels on everybody. So think about again, who you're dealing with and what you want,

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and who is your target. If that's your target, then that's fine. But if someone comes in and their

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skin is pretty normal, fairly, you know, not a lot needing to be done in consideration of

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pigmentation, scarring, that type of thing, then ask yourself why you're you're pushing for a deep

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peel for that skin, right? So just remember that you don't want to be overdoing it. And speaking

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of overdoing, you know, I want to show this diagram. I talked about it before, depending on the

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aggravation of the client's skin at a microscopic level, you could you won't see this, of course,

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not. But if they have that underlining redness to their skin, a slight irritation to the skin,

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should you peel, like find out again, the history, because microscopically, this is what it's doing,

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it's leading to little tears and cracks in the stratum corneum. And that's what's causing the

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irritation in their skin, which could cause into some infections or dermatitis, or, you know,

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maybe it's the eczema, that type of, I'm not saying that's what eczema is caused from this,

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I'm just saying it can lead to these disruptions of the skin itself. So finding out what the history

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is a big thing and through conversation. So sometimes the safe way to do it is to start with

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a superficial peel. And during that conversation, you might discover what else they've been up to.

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So really, really, I know they're finding, they're signing forms and they're, you know,

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signing everything off and you're protected. But at the same time, they're going to blame you if

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it went wrong, even though you've done everything right. So take the time to get to know your clients

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and their backgrounds is important. All right, so exfoliation, we know the biggest reason is to look

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younger, brighter, we want the glow, everybody wants that perfect complexion and glow. But we

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want to, we don't want to forget the cell renewal turnover rate. It's different for everybody,

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especially as we get older, it's anywhere from 20 to 50 days, if they're not doing

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much of anything with their skin, right? If they're exfoliating and they're over

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50 years old, then maybe they're, maybe it's actually more often than that. But this is just

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general rule of thumb, as we say, the most effective yet, you know, like I said, maybe it's

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some mild peel, exfoliation or glycolic, a brightening facial to start that off. Yes, you can do

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alactic or salicylic fruit enzymes, any of those peels to start off mild, like maybe it's only on for,

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you know, 20 seconds or something, but it starts off basic and you're also preparing them.

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And what are they willing to do at home during these peels too? How are they going to prepare

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themselves? So it's really about you and your client together. And, you know, the mantra that I

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use often is less, is more. So sometimes start off slow, again, you're preparing the skin.

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One thing, sometimes when you're coming in and your, you know, clients are only sharing what

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they think they know about their skin, and sometimes they don't mean to be holding back

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the things that they've been doing. But there's some things that you can look for, for example,

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there's that slight redness to the skin. They have some breakouts, but they never had them before.

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You have a dull complexion, you know, the fine lines, the wrinkles, the skin feels really tight

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when they smile, you know, their cheeks are very tight around the upper part. They do have some

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flakiness or peeling to the skin. So a few things that you want to look for, if there's any barrier

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damage, this could be your pre-sign. So you always want to go to help that first to see if it's the

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barrier that's been disturbed, so that you don't cause any more problems with it. Again, with your

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training, there's some estheticians, facialist medical, estheticians out there that are doing an

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amazing job at what they're doing, but they did their homework, they did their schooling, they've

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done their research, they know their products, they continue to learn, and there's even more. And

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I'm working on getting some guests in for our Beauty Babble, so we can talk more specifically

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to the treatments and maybe guide and help you with choosing, you know, what to look for for

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places for training is important. Not every class is the one you want to do. Sometimes there's some

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online ones that are fantastic. Sometimes in person ones you think would be better and they're not,

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so really dive in to understand, you know, what's going to help you in your career as well.

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And talk to your distributors because they know, you know, hopefully a lot about the products that

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they're carrying and help guide you through that too. All right, that is our episode today. I want

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to keep this short so that hopefully you are enjoying these. And this is about a place of

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a resource for you at Beauty Cult with our clients. This is what we try to do is to help you in your

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career. So thank you for joining and hope you have a wonderful rest of your day.

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Thanks for listening to Beauty Babble.