do you actually judge the peel on the percentage as an active ingredient? So you want to ensure that
you realize the pH is the actual main key behind your peels. Hi there, welcome to Beauty Babble.
My name is Suzanne, I'll be your host today. We are going to dive into everything you need to know
about facial peels, to peel or not to peel basically, and peels in general. So there's a lot of people
doing different things with their peels and that and I want you to consider, I don't know if you've
ever watched that series Sex in the City, but it comes to mind when Samantha went off to do a peel
before a special event that I think it's Carrie that was going to, she invited her to. Anyways,
well it went very very wrong and then back then when that came out there was a lot of people,
I remember very scared of chemical peels thanks to Samantha and the show, but it was a good kind of
awakening for people and this is just a friendly reminder to remind your clients because now they
have exposure to so much more over the counter, buying online, jumping from establishment to
establishment so you don't really know what your clients are up to sometimes. So really make sure
you're digging into it, but you know the biggest thing about this image you see, I know it's not
the best image, but it's the one I could kind of find because again this is going back some time ago,
but you can see it's you know raw and red and painful and it doesn't have to always be like that.
So you want to think about maybe the steps involved and know your client and how to begin
offering, maybe you haven't done this yet and you're not offering the services yet.
So doing the research, learning about it and the product knowledge of which line you are choosing
is imperative too and be careful not to mix and match your product lines, find out from your
distributor if that's even possible and what their thoughts are on that too. Remember you're not
the scientists that develop the product or the researcher I guess you could say.
So the first one, superficial light, you can think of that as your lunchtime peel, there's
really no downtime, it's just for brightening, maybe smooth out texture a little bit. It's very,
very mild in even if they had a little bit of sun damage, but very, very mild, it's not going to go
that deep. It's really about smoothing out the skin, brightening the skin. This is great for
special events or starting the pretreatment, maybe they're looking at diving into wanting to do more
chemical peels or you are wanting your client to do it. So sometimes starting out with a light
superficial one is a nice way to go as well. The medium, this is a medium depth we'll call it,
now the recovery is a little bit different. Definitely it's going to go a lot more into the
skin. This is where it's going to work with the discolouring of the skin pigmentation,
H-spot or possibly acne scars, whether it's actually the scarring of the tissue or the
color discoloration in the skin as well. Fine to moderate wrinkle level and this will definitely
require some downtime on that. So ensure that you are telling your clients a little bit more about it.
So that thicker kind of skin shallow scars, nothing too or maybe they're newer scars.
They've just had acne and just clearing up. They haven't been established for like 10 years
or something like that or 20 years. The next one is your deep layer. Now this is a lot more,
think of this as your drastic results. This is where you're diving into more. This is probably
where you're going to have your medical practitioner working or medical esthetician working on the client,
medical D-spot, doctor's office, that type of thing. Not everyone should have their hands on a deep
or even for that matter, a medium one, but definitely the deep is definitely going to be
different. It's going to penetrate quite deep into the skin and there is a requirement for sure
of pre-treatments before doing any of this to prepare the skin. Again, the doctor will
let the client know what's going on with that or your own education on what you learned on that,
on the protocols before using the product you're using on the skin. Again, this is for damaged skin
deep, deep layers. So some things to consider if you are new to Peeals is do you actually judge
the peel on the percentage as an active ingredient? So you want to ensure that you realize the pH is
the actual main key behind your peels. So if you had, think of your skin is between 4 and 6 pH 5.5
roughly, that if it's a higher than 7 you're now moving into alkaline. So if you have an acne client,
this is not a good place to go because there's more bacterial grounds for breeding in that component
if you wish. So you want to make sure that you're looking at closer to their pH level and more in
the acidic side, definitely for acne skins. And when you look at some things to consider after a peel,
do you always have to peel? Does your skin need to shed like that? Yes, some people will shed this way,
depending on the peel, but also depends what they've been doing prior to the peel. So if you have a client
who's diligent on exfoliating and they've been doing other treatments that you know are removing
dead skin cells, the likelihood of them peeling like this on a regular peel is probably not going to
be very much because don't think that it's just not working because you don't see these results.
Sometimes you know, I feel like I'm picking on TikTok, I don't mean to, but it's such a big thing,
social platform these days. And you're seeing these extreme cases, I feel, and you want to make sure
that you're looking at all the facts, use your education and understand what the skin at what
level it's at. Are they derma planning? Are they waxing? You know, did they just have a glycolic
treatment with you? A mild AHA peel? Are they doing vitamin C treatments? Like there's so many
factors that are creating that small exfoliation to the skin is how much is really going to be
peeling off the skin. So sometimes to exfoliate, you don't have to do the extreme unless you're
looking at extreme measures with their skin. They have deep, deep scarring, deep, deep pigmentation,
melasma, like that type of thing, hyperpigmentation is very deep. Then you might have to consider
going a lot longer. You know, technically, depending on what you're doing with them, you could be doing
this every two weeks, a light one to sort of build up to that and then slowly leaving it on longer,
coming in more often. But again, you want to build this up so the skin doesn't have this negative
response to it. Because basically, when you're peeling, you are offering a slight, the word I'm
looking for, like an injury to the skin. So that's promoting the cell renewal to heal. And that's
the point behind it is to produce the cell renewal and to kickstart and get it going again.
Now, a couple other things to consider is when's the best time. So think of
the weather. When is the best time to be doing these treatments? So you want to consider where do
you live or where do your clients live? Do they go away in the winter? What are they doing in the
summer months? Are they outside all the time? The one thing that I would really recommend,
and hopefully they're ready doing sunblock, is that they're daily using sunblock and wearing
hats. So if you are doing peels, recommend the visors. I know it might look silly, but it's really
the point of doing these treatments is to help the skin. And if they're getting exposure of the
elements of our weather, whether it's UV, strong winds, the cold, the heat, that type of thing,
you want to make sure that they are using sunblock all the time and potentially sun hats,
not just a cap, but or there's these visors that are actually UV protected as well.
Time of the year, again, typically it's that late autumn, early spring before the summer comes,
but it really depends on where you live. I mean, everyone's a little bit different.
This is where we kind of navigate to in our climate here in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada.
And it still depends on our falls. If we're out in the summer, we have a beautiful fall,
it drives people to walk more, be outside more. They're exposed to it. So introduce and tell them
like a plan, say, okay, we're going to start this in the fall. Now's a great time. It's to
start discussing their fall treatment. We're in the summer right now. What are you willing to do
to ensure that you're safe? I need to know that you're going to be safe. With your skin,
a russet defeats the purpose of doing any of this as well. And it can make it worse as well.
So when we look at peels, I want you, there's a few things to consider. So chemical peels,
you know, they are, you can think of them as three categories. They're kind of touched on this.
They're superficial peels penetrate the epidermis only. So that upper part. And then the medium
deep peels damage the entire epidermis and the papillary dermis area. Whereas the deep,
you're going into that very, very deep area in the rectal dermis, which basically is hitting,
when you say mid area of the dermis, that's the bottom layer of the dermis.
That's how deep this goes. And this is why it's important to understand the medical side
when you're using these strong peels. So you want to look at the factors involved.
Consider, you know, the skin of the client. What are their conditions, general depth,
how far are we going with these peels? And, you know, what's the healing time with the
downtime? How is this going to affect the client's life itself? And, you know, with this, you want to
consider the plan. So always make a plan with your clients so that they know what to expect
is really important. So the chemicals are applied and the concentrations, the mode of the application,
like how are you doing this, and the skin type and conditions are really important.
In general, the depth of that peel determines the patient's, you know, inconvenience during and
after the treatment. So that's why I say make a plan. And the healing time, the rate of the
potential adverse effects as well as the results. And this is taken right from Cleveland Medical
and MedSkeep. That's why I quoted that area. But I liked how they said that very, very specifically.
Okay, skin structure. So when we look at the epidermis, we know there's five layers in there.
And we know that the epidermis is also a protective barrier. So we do want to consider
how deep we're going and why is it necessary to go to medium to deep with your clients.
So take into consideration just because others are doing a deep peel, doesn't mean that everybody
requires it. So keep that in mind when you're thinking of the layers of the skin.
So when you look at the stratum basal or the stratum corneum area, you want to look at that
area specific because this is where you're starting to touch on your peels with. So your
dermis is that live area. It's the nourishment to the bottom of the epidermis, your fibroblasts,
and your lastin and collagen is about 70% of your skin. And by the time the cells reach the
stratum corneum, they're no longer living. So this is why we're trying to exfoliate and
remove those. We keep penetrating and pushing and stimulating that production of the fibroblasts
in the cells. As we age, yes, we know this slows down. So we want to give it that pick-me-up. On
average, though, we know it's about 30 days. So four to six weeks. And that's why we recommend
the treatment support is six weeks apart. Just as a reminder again, stratum corneum is your brick
and layer. So think about that. And it is an essential role for the barrier to protect the skin.
And it does aid in hydration. So monitoring and really understanding the need of your client and
why. Figure out the why to your chemical peel. Does your client need it? We've had clients asking
for them. And the first thing you ask why, what are your goals? What are you looking for? Because
visually, I can see there's no scarring. They have small pores. Their friend did it. There's someone
else. They had great results. Oh, well, what was their skin like? And they had pigmentation. They
had scarring. They had other issues. Don't say no to the peel, but you can guide them into let's
start here. And maybe you're going to do superficial to medium and tell them why you feel you need to
start there. Again, if I keep stressing that part of it, it's not for everybody. So and as a
esthetician, faceless skin care professional, medical esthetician, you don't always have to do
deep peels on everybody. So think about again, who you're dealing with and what you want,
and who is your target. If that's your target, then that's fine. But if someone comes in and their
skin is pretty normal, fairly, you know, not a lot needing to be done in consideration of
pigmentation, scarring, that type of thing, then ask yourself why you're you're pushing for a deep
peel for that skin, right? So just remember that you don't want to be overdoing it. And speaking
of overdoing, you know, I want to show this diagram. I talked about it before, depending on the
aggravation of the client's skin at a microscopic level, you could you won't see this, of course,
not. But if they have that underlining redness to their skin, a slight irritation to the skin,
should you peel, like find out again, the history, because microscopically, this is what it's doing,
it's leading to little tears and cracks in the stratum corneum. And that's what's causing the
irritation in their skin, which could cause into some infections or dermatitis, or, you know,
maybe it's the eczema, that type of, I'm not saying that's what eczema is caused from this,
I'm just saying it can lead to these disruptions of the skin itself. So finding out what the history
is a big thing and through conversation. So sometimes the safe way to do it is to start with
a superficial peel. And during that conversation, you might discover what else they've been up to.
So really, really, I know they're finding, they're signing forms and they're, you know,
signing everything off and you're protected. But at the same time, they're going to blame you if
it went wrong, even though you've done everything right. So take the time to get to know your clients
and their backgrounds is important. All right, so exfoliation, we know the biggest reason is to look
younger, brighter, we want the glow, everybody wants that perfect complexion and glow. But we
want to, we don't want to forget the cell renewal turnover rate. It's different for everybody,
especially as we get older, it's anywhere from 20 to 50 days, if they're not doing
much of anything with their skin, right? If they're exfoliating and they're over
50 years old, then maybe they're, maybe it's actually more often than that. But this is just
general rule of thumb, as we say, the most effective yet, you know, like I said, maybe it's
some mild peel, exfoliation or glycolic, a brightening facial to start that off. Yes, you can do
alactic or salicylic fruit enzymes, any of those peels to start off mild, like maybe it's only on for,
you know, 20 seconds or something, but it starts off basic and you're also preparing them.
And what are they willing to do at home during these peels too? How are they going to prepare
themselves? So it's really about you and your client together. And, you know, the mantra that I
use often is less, is more. So sometimes start off slow, again, you're preparing the skin.
One thing, sometimes when you're coming in and your, you know, clients are only sharing what
they think they know about their skin, and sometimes they don't mean to be holding back
the things that they've been doing. But there's some things that you can look for, for example,
there's that slight redness to the skin. They have some breakouts, but they never had them before.
You have a dull complexion, you know, the fine lines, the wrinkles, the skin feels really tight
when they smile, you know, their cheeks are very tight around the upper part. They do have some
flakiness or peeling to the skin. So a few things that you want to look for, if there's any barrier
damage, this could be your pre-sign. So you always want to go to help that first to see if it's the
barrier that's been disturbed, so that you don't cause any more problems with it. Again, with your
training, there's some estheticians, facialist medical, estheticians out there that are doing an
amazing job at what they're doing, but they did their homework, they did their schooling, they've
done their research, they know their products, they continue to learn, and there's even more. And
I'm working on getting some guests in for our Beauty Babble, so we can talk more specifically
to the treatments and maybe guide and help you with choosing, you know, what to look for for
places for training is important. Not every class is the one you want to do. Sometimes there's some
online ones that are fantastic. Sometimes in person ones you think would be better and they're not,
so really dive in to understand, you know, what's going to help you in your career as well.
And talk to your distributors because they know, you know, hopefully a lot about the products that
they're carrying and help guide you through that too. All right, that is our episode today. I want
to keep this short so that hopefully you are enjoying these. And this is about a place of
a resource for you at Beauty Cult with our clients. This is what we try to do is to help you in your
career. So thank you for joining and hope you have a wonderful rest of your day.
Thanks for listening to Beauty Babble.