WEBVTT 00:00:00.000 --> 00:00:01.659 I was just talking to one of my friends in the 00:00:01.659 --> 00:00:03.640 bathroom and then she walked out of one of the 00:00:03.640 --> 00:00:05.759 stalls and we looked at each other and we were 00:00:05.759 --> 00:00:10.140 like, oh my gosh, it's Janja. So then we went 00:00:10.140 --> 00:00:13.679 to ISO. I just was talking to one of my coaches 00:00:13.679 --> 00:00:17.179 like, I can't do it. I felt sick, I was falling 00:00:17.179 --> 00:00:22.140 asleep. It was only my third World Cup and being 00:00:22.140 --> 00:00:25.379 in finals felt crazy. So I was just so, so excited. 00:00:25.719 --> 00:00:29.050 And then when it was cancelled... I was yeah 00:00:29.050 --> 00:00:32.570 really upset my first thought was like oh no 00:00:32.570 --> 00:00:36.170 what if I'd never make a finals again they'll 00:00:36.170 --> 00:00:38.929 just like make a comment or say like oh like 00:00:38.929 --> 00:00:42.750 if I was as light as you I'd do that climb Welcome 00:00:42.750 --> 00:00:45.270 to another episode of the That's Not Real Climbing 00:00:45.270 --> 00:00:47.909 podcast. I'm your host, Jinni, and I'm excited 00:00:47.909 --> 00:00:49.969 to introduce my guest for today, Emma Edwards. 00:00:50.570 --> 00:00:54.049 Emma is a boulder on Team GB, and 2025 was her 00:00:54.049 --> 00:00:56.770 debut in the senior World Cup circuit, and she's 00:00:56.770 --> 00:00:59.630 already made a World Cup finals. However, if 00:00:59.630 --> 00:01:02.009 you don't recognize her, it may be because that 00:01:02.009 --> 00:01:05.280 was Prague where her finals got rained out. In 00:01:05.280 --> 00:01:07.400 this episode, we'll go over all the mishaps that 00:01:07.400 --> 00:01:09.519 happened at Prague, including an allergic reaction. 00:01:09.959 --> 00:01:12.579 We'll learn about her training schedule, Team 00:01:12.579 --> 00:01:15.379 GB, and the climbing culture in commercial gyms, 00:01:15.439 --> 00:01:17.760 and how often she goes through climbing shoes, 00:01:17.959 --> 00:01:20.799 which kind of blew my mind. I hope you enjoy 00:01:20.799 --> 00:01:32.480 this episode with Emma. Please pardon this brief 00:01:32.480 --> 00:01:34.859 intermission, but I'm excited to talk about Mad 00:01:34.859 --> 00:01:37.540 Rock's newest and softest shoe yet, the Remora 00:01:37.540 --> 00:01:39.879 Pro. If you like being able to feel the chips 00:01:39.879 --> 00:01:42.319 you're standing on, and you like not having to 00:01:42.319 --> 00:01:44.799 worry about standing on sketchy volumes in competitions, 00:01:45.319 --> 00:01:48.659 then this is the soft shoe for you. They also 00:01:48.659 --> 00:01:51.859 have a crazy 3D heel that allows you to get more 00:01:51.859 --> 00:01:54.939 surface area when heel hooking, and inserts that 00:01:54.939 --> 00:01:57.519 lock your heel into the shoe no matter how hard 00:01:57.519 --> 00:01:59.900 you're pulling. Feel free to message me if you 00:01:59.900 --> 00:02:01.959 have any questions about the shoes or sizing, 00:02:02.019 --> 00:02:05.040 and you can use the discount code NOTREALCLIMBER 00:02:05.040 --> 00:02:08.120 for 10 % off your entire Mad Rock order. Thank 00:02:08.120 --> 00:02:09.960 you to Mad Rock for helping to sponsor the podcast. 00:02:10.300 --> 00:02:12.680 Now, back to the show. How was your holidays? 00:02:13.099 --> 00:02:15.389 Yeah, really nice. Thank you. And you? yeah it 00:02:15.389 --> 00:02:17.229 was good do you have any like new year's plans 00:02:17.229 --> 00:02:21.669 or resolutions ideas oh god um i've not really 00:02:21.669 --> 00:02:24.210 thought about resolutions i want to be more organized 00:02:24.210 --> 00:02:29.770 um yeah i need to get on it um but yeah i don't 00:02:29.770 --> 00:02:31.469 really know to be fair do you have any new year's 00:02:31.469 --> 00:02:35.370 plans not really any plans i always try to make 00:02:35.370 --> 00:02:38.050 a resolution to like start stretching but it's 00:02:38.050 --> 00:02:40.430 just so freaking boring I can't do it it's hard 00:02:40.430 --> 00:02:44.030 isn't it it's like I used to have such a perfectionist 00:02:44.030 --> 00:02:46.569 mindset with it as well and like it's I think 00:02:46.569 --> 00:02:48.710 starting is the hardest part and I would be like 00:02:48.710 --> 00:02:52.629 if I couldn't like the thought of doing it badly 00:02:52.629 --> 00:02:55.430 I was like no I just can't be bothered to do 00:02:55.430 --> 00:02:57.409 it but actually like doing something's better 00:02:57.409 --> 00:03:01.979 than nothing but what's doing it badly for stretching 00:03:01.979 --> 00:03:04.680 I don't know like I went through a phase where 00:03:04.680 --> 00:03:07.860 I would have to do like 30 seconds in each stretch 00:03:07.860 --> 00:03:11.180 and I'd do all my stretches um and then doing 00:03:11.180 --> 00:03:14.780 it badly would just be like not I don't know 00:03:14.780 --> 00:03:17.340 just not doing it properly and then I would just 00:03:17.340 --> 00:03:19.360 find it really hard to stop because I'd have 00:03:19.360 --> 00:03:21.919 this whole thing in my head of god I have to 00:03:21.919 --> 00:03:24.580 get through like stretching but then I think 00:03:24.580 --> 00:03:26.900 since I've been a bit more like relaxed with 00:03:26.900 --> 00:03:30.050 it I like do it way more now Okay. What's your 00:03:30.050 --> 00:03:32.310 routine look like? Or I guess you don't have 00:03:32.310 --> 00:03:34.789 a routine because that would be too much perfection. 00:03:35.129 --> 00:03:38.610 Yeah, maybe. For stretching, I think it's, I 00:03:38.610 --> 00:03:42.229 try to stretch like every day. Not every day 00:03:42.229 --> 00:03:45.409 is like a big stretching day. Like if I'm tired, 00:03:45.550 --> 00:03:47.509 it's like getting to sleep is more important, 00:03:47.610 --> 00:03:52.430 I think. But I definitely like try to do a bit 00:03:52.430 --> 00:03:55.050 of like massage gun and foam roll. And then when 00:03:55.050 --> 00:03:58.490 I can't stretch, I don't know. Yeah, I... tried 00:03:58.490 --> 00:04:02.990 to get like a split one year very yeah very short 00:04:02.990 --> 00:04:04.849 amount of time that I spent trying to do that 00:04:04.849 --> 00:04:07.169 I've I always have the goal of middle splits 00:04:07.169 --> 00:04:10.610 that I've never done but it like I would I was 00:04:10.610 --> 00:04:12.930 doing it and I think maybe I was doing it too 00:04:12.930 --> 00:04:16.569 hard Oh, really? Like overstretching? Yeah, I 00:04:16.569 --> 00:04:19.230 think I was just like stretching too extreme 00:04:19.230 --> 00:04:22.329 for what I was able to do. And then it made my 00:04:22.329 --> 00:04:25.089 knees hurt really bad. Oh, really? I guess sometimes 00:04:25.089 --> 00:04:27.290 like when you're holding middle split, it's like 00:04:27.290 --> 00:04:29.610 the inside of the knees. That hurts me sometimes. 00:04:29.709 --> 00:04:31.790 I don't know. Was it that or? It's kind of like 00:04:31.790 --> 00:04:34.709 when you maybe like fall and then it like bends 00:04:34.709 --> 00:04:37.470 the other way too much. Oh, are you hypermobile 00:04:37.470 --> 00:04:42.610 or? No, no. It was just too much on the knees, 00:04:42.629 --> 00:04:44.490 I think, when I stopped. then I never picked 00:04:44.490 --> 00:04:47.370 it up again no middle splits I feel like I'm 00:04:47.370 --> 00:04:50.889 like I'm relatively flexible but like box splits 00:04:50.889 --> 00:04:54.089 or middle splits is the one I just like I can't 00:04:54.089 --> 00:04:57.149 do and I need to be like committed for like yeah 00:04:57.149 --> 00:04:59.769 a long time and consistent but do you think it 00:04:59.769 --> 00:05:02.449 would help with climbing yeah for sure I think 00:05:02.449 --> 00:05:04.209 it's like the most important one for climbing 00:05:04.209 --> 00:05:06.550 with like keeping your hips into the wall and 00:05:06.550 --> 00:05:10.189 especially and with slabs and everything um but 00:05:10.189 --> 00:05:11.870 it's the one that I'm worst at which is really 00:05:11.870 --> 00:05:15.769 annoying yeah I wasn't trying middle splits though 00:05:15.769 --> 00:05:18.170 I was trying to do front splits that's the one 00:05:18.170 --> 00:05:21.449 where you're like oh this one yeah it wasn't 00:05:21.449 --> 00:05:23.629 for like climbing I just thought it'd be fun 00:05:23.629 --> 00:05:26.209 no no that's cool that's cool but maybe that 00:05:26.209 --> 00:05:28.410 can be your resolution as well yeah yeah yeah 00:05:28.410 --> 00:05:31.589 no for sure um how is winter training going winter 00:05:31.589 --> 00:05:33.689 it's going really well actually yeah I've started 00:05:33.689 --> 00:05:38.170 working with a new coach um and yeah it's going 00:05:38.170 --> 00:05:40.250 really well so far what does your training look 00:05:40.250 --> 00:05:43.490 like So currently, I've actually switched to 00:05:43.490 --> 00:05:47.129 doing three days on, one day off. Last winter, 00:05:47.189 --> 00:05:51.250 I did six days on, one day off. Whoa, that's 00:05:51.250 --> 00:05:55.889 a lot. Yeah, it was, I think it like, I don't 00:05:55.889 --> 00:05:59.449 know, it's definitely beneficial in some ways, 00:05:59.470 --> 00:06:02.649 but then in other ways, it's not beneficial. 00:06:10.759 --> 00:06:12.819 I don't know to do it right is hard and then 00:06:12.819 --> 00:06:16.879 I'm only doing Boulder so I think maybe this 00:06:16.879 --> 00:06:19.879 year the thinking was more like I'll try to have 00:06:19.879 --> 00:06:22.120 like three like good sessions like with skin 00:06:22.120 --> 00:06:26.180 and then a rest day and then just repeat but 00:06:26.180 --> 00:06:31.259 yeah I'm doing three on one off and just like 00:06:31.259 --> 00:06:34.730 everything really like climbing gym I don't know 00:06:34.730 --> 00:06:38.009 the usual like strength training and hangboarding 00:06:38.009 --> 00:06:41.209 stuff like that yeah yeah I think most sessions 00:06:41.209 --> 00:06:45.089 I'll have like some form of like fingerboarding 00:06:45.089 --> 00:06:48.470 or like I do like those pinch pickup things um 00:06:48.470 --> 00:06:51.230 and then I'll have like a climbing session which 00:06:51.230 --> 00:06:54.709 could be like subs and then power endurance or 00:06:54.709 --> 00:06:58.629 like comp blocks and then a hardboard session 00:06:58.629 --> 00:07:03.129 and then um not every day but a lot of days recently 00:07:03.129 --> 00:07:07.430 I've been having gym it's very much like I don't 00:07:07.430 --> 00:07:10.329 know it feels like it's like let's get out as 00:07:10.329 --> 00:07:12.949 tired as possible and like push our arms as much 00:07:12.949 --> 00:07:15.490 as we can do you is your coach there like the 00:07:15.490 --> 00:07:19.509 entire time while you're training no no um so 00:07:19.509 --> 00:07:22.699 he writes my training plan and then I see him 00:07:22.699 --> 00:07:26.079 like once or twice a week in person for sessions. 00:07:26.360 --> 00:07:29.800 That makes sense. What did your six days on training 00:07:29.800 --> 00:07:32.980 look like? That sounds crazy to me. Last winter. 00:07:33.139 --> 00:07:39.120 Yeah, it was a lot. It was more like I would 00:07:39.120 --> 00:07:41.480 do like hard day, hard day, easy day, hard day, 00:07:41.519 --> 00:07:44.420 hard day, easy day, kind of. So maybe like the 00:07:44.420 --> 00:07:46.379 third day would be like slabs and conditioning 00:07:46.379 --> 00:07:49.639 or something. So I'd have skin for the next days. 00:07:51.819 --> 00:07:55.160 But it was just a lot of climbing, a lot of gym. 00:07:55.339 --> 00:07:59.079 But I think if you like build up your capacity 00:07:59.079 --> 00:08:02.920 and you can train that much, then it can be okay. 00:08:03.040 --> 00:08:05.180 I don't know. Was it mainly just like a skin 00:08:05.180 --> 00:08:10.420 issue? Yeah, I think I did. I think now I'm preferring 00:08:10.420 --> 00:08:12.399 the three on one off to the six days because 00:08:12.399 --> 00:08:16.199 I just have. more skin and energy for the sessions 00:08:16.199 --> 00:08:18.420 and I can make them like better quality sessions 00:08:18.420 --> 00:08:21.639 I think did you ever like tape up your skin to 00:08:21.639 --> 00:08:25.480 yeah yeah for sure I think I don't know it's 00:08:25.480 --> 00:08:28.040 really annoying and it's annoying like I've definitely 00:08:28.040 --> 00:08:31.420 found it mentally hard at first to be like taped 00:08:31.420 --> 00:08:34.600 and not doing a climb and knowing if I untaped 00:08:34.600 --> 00:08:37.659 that I would find it okay I think it takes like 00:08:37.659 --> 00:08:40.720 a lot of maturity to be like no it's fine like 00:08:40.720 --> 00:08:42.639 it doesn't matter it's just training you can 00:08:42.639 --> 00:08:46.750 tape um but when i was doing six days i definitely 00:08:46.750 --> 00:08:49.590 spent a lot of sessions taped i think yeah i 00:08:49.590 --> 00:08:51.429 mean i wonder if that's helpful too because then 00:08:51.429 --> 00:08:55.389 it makes you i don't know like work your grip 00:08:55.389 --> 00:08:58.309 harder yeah work your body positioning maybe 00:08:58.309 --> 00:09:00.590 it could be a thing i think erin spends a lot 00:09:00.590 --> 00:09:03.629 of time taped up and she has really strong hands 00:09:03.629 --> 00:09:07.350 so maybe it's the manual yeah actually i wonder 00:09:07.350 --> 00:09:10.070 if i should try that out just tape up every session 00:09:10.070 --> 00:09:14.549 yeah i mean because I feel like for me, I'm so 00:09:14.549 --> 00:09:16.850 texture dependent. Like if the texture on a hold 00:09:16.850 --> 00:09:19.669 isn't good, I'm like over it. Yeah, no, same. 00:09:19.750 --> 00:09:23.129 I hate a badly textured hold. Yeah, so I think 00:09:23.129 --> 00:09:25.230 maybe I need to work on that now that I think 00:09:25.230 --> 00:09:30.149 about it. So yeah, let's get into learning more 00:09:30.149 --> 00:09:32.970 about you and your climbing. How did you start 00:09:32.970 --> 00:09:35.570 out getting into climbing and competing? My parents 00:09:35.570 --> 00:09:38.389 both climbed a little bit in uni, like not properly, 00:09:38.549 --> 00:09:43.149 but... They occasionally went like outdoor climbing 00:09:43.149 --> 00:09:47.629 and so I think when I started climbing when I 00:09:47.629 --> 00:09:52.450 was 10 we were visiting family in France in Paris 00:09:52.450 --> 00:09:57.690 and we went to Font and I think that was my first 00:09:57.690 --> 00:10:00.649 time climbing and then we came home and I think 00:10:00.649 --> 00:10:03.629 I asked to go like I just asked to go climbing 00:10:03.629 --> 00:10:06.490 and then like six months later I joined a kids 00:10:06.490 --> 00:10:10.289 club and yeah I just really liked it. Did you 00:10:10.289 --> 00:10:12.929 do, like, family trips? We did when I was younger 00:10:12.929 --> 00:10:16.409 to Font, yeah, yeah. It was really nice. And 00:10:16.409 --> 00:10:19.269 then when did you actually start competing a 00:10:19.269 --> 00:10:21.450 bunch? Or, like, do you, like, remember a moment 00:10:21.450 --> 00:10:23.230 when you decided to start doing it seriously? 00:10:23.950 --> 00:10:27.370 So I started competing, like, quite soon after 00:10:27.370 --> 00:10:30.649 I started climbing. There was, like, this competition 00:10:30.649 --> 00:10:33.049 circuit called the Youth Climbing Series in the 00:10:33.049 --> 00:10:35.909 UK, and it was, like, you do regional comps, 00:10:35.909 --> 00:10:38.330 and then you try to make it to the national. 00:10:38.840 --> 00:10:41.840 like grand final they used to call it um so I 00:10:41.840 --> 00:10:44.279 did that like six months after I started climbing 00:10:44.279 --> 00:10:48.519 but when I like took it seriously I think that 00:10:48.519 --> 00:10:52.960 was maybe when I was like 15 or something I like 00:10:52.960 --> 00:10:55.820 just I don't know I decided I wanted to get onto 00:10:55.820 --> 00:11:00.200 the GB team and yeah what inspired you to want 00:11:00.200 --> 00:11:02.879 to get onto the GB team or like how do you make 00:11:02.879 --> 00:11:05.740 the decision that I don't know it's like hard 00:11:05.740 --> 00:11:08.519 for me to imagine being so young and deciding 00:11:08.519 --> 00:11:11.320 that it's something I want to do, I don't know, 00:11:11.360 --> 00:11:13.700 like, professionally or take really seriously. 00:11:14.000 --> 00:11:16.279 It kind of, like, just, like, built up. Like, 00:11:16.279 --> 00:11:18.080 I started with the regional comps and the national 00:11:18.080 --> 00:11:20.879 comps and then I would, like, make national finals 00:11:20.879 --> 00:11:24.639 and just seeing all the people in the GB team, 00:11:24.899 --> 00:11:28.179 it just felt like the next step. And then, like, 00:11:28.220 --> 00:11:31.700 I really wanted to go to the internationals and 00:11:31.700 --> 00:11:35.559 I don't know. Yeah, it just felt like the next 00:11:35.559 --> 00:11:39.820 thing. that was coming I don't know like it just 00:11:39.820 --> 00:11:41.659 yeah you don't you don't feel like there was 00:11:41.659 --> 00:11:44.299 a specific decision it was just like this makes 00:11:44.299 --> 00:11:47.259 sense is the next thing to work towards I think 00:11:47.259 --> 00:11:51.220 so okay so yeah this was your first year in the 00:11:51.220 --> 00:11:54.360 senior circuit right yes yeah yeah I mean it 00:11:54.360 --> 00:11:56.789 was a crazy first year in the senior circuit 00:11:56.789 --> 00:11:59.830 I think you made semis in all world cups except 00:11:59.830 --> 00:12:02.870 for one uh yeah apart from Kachow at the start 00:12:02.870 --> 00:12:06.169 of the season yeah um how did it feel and what 00:12:06.169 --> 00:12:09.590 did you learn from the 2025 season um it was 00:12:09.590 --> 00:12:12.690 really cool uh yeah I didn't expect it to go 00:12:12.690 --> 00:12:15.669 so well like obviously I hoped it would go well 00:12:15.669 --> 00:12:21.289 um but it was just like crazy to be competing 00:12:21.289 --> 00:12:24.990 with the people who I've watched like on my screen 00:12:24.990 --> 00:12:28.409 for so long and to like just be in iso and just 00:12:28.409 --> 00:12:30.330 even like seeing them warming up it's just like 00:12:30.330 --> 00:12:35.389 insane um and yeah i think i learned a lot about 00:12:35.389 --> 00:12:39.970 like myself and uh the comps and was it like 00:12:39.970 --> 00:12:42.870 your first time um like traveling around for 00:12:42.870 --> 00:12:46.129 competitions too uh with the youth team i'd already 00:12:46.129 --> 00:12:48.309 done like a decent amount of traveling around 00:12:48.309 --> 00:12:52.070 europe and then uh for youth worlds I'd been 00:12:52.070 --> 00:12:56.470 to Dallas and South Korea and China actually 00:12:56.470 --> 00:13:02.429 before but um it was definitely like a very different 00:13:02.429 --> 00:13:05.909 experience and like having all the comps back 00:13:05.909 --> 00:13:10.129 to back that was yeah very new for me and i think 00:13:10.129 --> 00:13:13.289 i could have done things better i'm not sure 00:13:13.289 --> 00:13:15.730 i think yeah what would you like change about 00:13:15.730 --> 00:13:18.370 the traveling for next year not sure i think 00:13:18.370 --> 00:13:21.289 i need to figure it out for next year um but 00:13:21.289 --> 00:13:24.289 i definitely felt that i got like physically 00:13:24.289 --> 00:13:27.730 quite tired by the end of the season and i would 00:13:27.730 --> 00:13:33.029 hope to like um yeah hopefully with my coach 00:13:33.029 --> 00:13:36.529 we can figure out how i maybe don't get so tired 00:13:36.529 --> 00:13:38.970 like maybe it's a case of like training more 00:13:38.970 --> 00:13:43.230 or training a bit less i'm not too sure um but 00:13:43.230 --> 00:13:46.929 yeah i'd like to figure that one out like you 00:13:46.929 --> 00:13:49.330 were still doing training during the season um 00:13:49.330 --> 00:13:55.210 no like kind of like not training training so 00:13:55.210 --> 00:13:59.750 much like i wasn't doing long days um but i was 00:13:59.750 --> 00:14:02.169 still doing like shorter hard sessions because 00:14:02.169 --> 00:14:05.840 you want to stay recruited um I don't know I 00:14:05.840 --> 00:14:08.940 think it's a hard balance to find like the right 00:14:08.940 --> 00:14:12.580 amount to do I find it quite hard to uh like 00:14:12.580 --> 00:14:16.559 know what my body needs but hopefully with like 00:14:16.559 --> 00:14:18.899 the pasture and everything I can figure it out 00:14:18.899 --> 00:14:21.960 a bit better yeah and you also said it was cool 00:14:21.960 --> 00:14:24.659 to be an iso competing with the people you watched 00:14:24.659 --> 00:14:27.740 on screen yeah it was crazy who was like who 00:14:27.740 --> 00:14:30.940 are you like most like did you feel nervous warming 00:14:30.940 --> 00:14:33.360 up next to them was there like anyone that you 00:14:33.360 --> 00:14:36.259 super looked up to that yeah I remember in Kachow 00:14:36.259 --> 00:14:40.120 seeing like Miho and I was just like fangirling 00:14:40.120 --> 00:14:42.740 so hard like oh my gosh just like seeing her 00:14:42.740 --> 00:14:47.059 in person was crazy and then I remember seeing 00:14:47.059 --> 00:14:50.080 Yanya for the first time in Innsbruck like that 00:14:50.080 --> 00:14:52.799 was insane i think i was just talking to one 00:14:52.799 --> 00:14:54.539 of my friends in the bathroom and then she like 00:14:54.539 --> 00:14:56.799 walked out of one of the stalls and i was we 00:14:56.799 --> 00:14:58.500 looked at each other and we're like oh my gosh 00:14:58.500 --> 00:15:02.820 did you say anything or you just kind of stared 00:15:02.820 --> 00:15:07.059 just like tried not to like be too obvious um 00:15:07.059 --> 00:15:12.960 but yeah i think it was really cool to um like 00:15:12.960 --> 00:15:16.379 see those people in real life and yeah everyone's 00:15:16.379 --> 00:15:19.190 just like so nice and it's really cool I wonder 00:15:19.190 --> 00:15:21.929 how she feels when people just like, when she 00:15:21.929 --> 00:15:24.450 just like walks out and sees people like whispering 00:15:24.450 --> 00:15:28.190 about her to the side. But yeah, how do you feel 00:15:28.190 --> 00:15:31.149 like warming up in that environment? Like, does 00:15:31.149 --> 00:15:34.889 it feel nerve wracking and scary warming up next 00:15:34.889 --> 00:15:37.730 to people like that? I think I definitely found 00:15:37.730 --> 00:15:41.250 it intimidating at first because just like watching 00:15:41.250 --> 00:15:43.710 people, like everyone is so impressive and like 00:15:43.710 --> 00:15:45.809 so strong, like the moves they're doing on the 00:15:45.809 --> 00:15:48.980 spray wall. I was, especially like in Kachow, 00:15:49.120 --> 00:15:52.039 I was just like, oh my gosh. But I think as the 00:15:52.039 --> 00:15:55.379 season went on, I became more comfortable with 00:15:55.379 --> 00:15:58.320 it for sure. But definitely at first I found 00:15:58.320 --> 00:16:02.659 it quite intimidating. Yeah, I bet. One of the 00:16:02.659 --> 00:16:04.960 audience submitted questions that had come in 00:16:04.960 --> 00:16:08.259 was, how has the transition from youth to senior 00:16:08.259 --> 00:16:10.179 been for you? And do you have any advice for 00:16:10.179 --> 00:16:11.759 youth climbers going through that transition? 00:16:12.200 --> 00:16:14.980 Yeah, I found the transition from youth to senior, 00:16:15.080 --> 00:16:19.059 like, good but also hard at times because it's 00:16:19.059 --> 00:16:22.879 just that you're going into a much more competitive 00:16:22.879 --> 00:16:26.299 and harder environment and everyone is just so 00:16:26.299 --> 00:16:30.480 good and there's so many people i think if i 00:16:30.480 --> 00:16:33.740 had advice it would try to be it would be to 00:16:33.740 --> 00:16:36.480 try to be confident because it's really hard 00:16:36.480 --> 00:16:42.259 at times and i definitely found like going into 00:16:42.259 --> 00:16:45.399 senior I had a lot of like self -doubt and just 00:16:45.399 --> 00:16:47.600 when you like see the start list and you see 00:16:47.600 --> 00:16:49.919 all the names on the start list it's hard to 00:16:49.919 --> 00:16:52.379 look at that and think how am I meant to compete 00:16:52.379 --> 00:16:54.379 against these people because they're all so good 00:16:54.379 --> 00:16:58.580 but they're also just people and like everyone's 00:16:58.580 --> 00:17:02.100 in the same boat like yeah I think that would 00:17:02.100 --> 00:17:05.160 be my advice. Did you feel like there was a difference 00:17:05.160 --> 00:17:07.880 in the actual boulders between youth and senior 00:17:07.880 --> 00:17:11.650 like they climbed differently? Yeah I think senior 00:17:11.650 --> 00:17:14.710 one's definitely a bit more powerful in my opinion 00:17:14.710 --> 00:17:19.410 um which is really cool uh especially like in 00:17:19.410 --> 00:17:22.670 semi -finals like the power boulders are usually 00:17:22.670 --> 00:17:25.990 really really hard is that um more of a strength 00:17:25.990 --> 00:17:27.890 for you or do you get nervous when it comes to 00:17:27.890 --> 00:17:30.609 like power boulders i don't think it's my strength 00:17:30.609 --> 00:17:34.950 but i think in competitions i climb power boulders 00:17:35.450 --> 00:17:37.829 i find them the easiest to like get into a good 00:17:37.829 --> 00:17:40.230 mindset and try my best on like i find slabs 00:17:40.230 --> 00:17:43.009 in comps quite hard but power boulders it's just 00:17:43.009 --> 00:17:45.190 like okay i know this is going to be really hard 00:17:45.190 --> 00:17:48.349 i know i'm going to have to try as hard as i 00:17:48.349 --> 00:17:50.990 can and i feel like in a comp i can get into 00:17:50.990 --> 00:17:54.670 that headspace or like yeah quite well yeah what's 00:17:54.670 --> 00:17:58.190 your mindset on on slab uh i really like slab 00:17:58.190 --> 00:18:02.549 but i find slabs in comps quite stressful and 00:18:02.549 --> 00:18:05.339 it's something i really want to improve at next 00:18:05.339 --> 00:18:07.440 year I think it's one of my main goals because 00:18:07.440 --> 00:18:10.819 in training I feel quite confident on slabs and 00:18:10.819 --> 00:18:15.819 then I get to the comps and I like think about 00:18:15.819 --> 00:18:17.680 the slabs and see the slabs and they make me 00:18:17.680 --> 00:18:20.359 so stressed but yeah it's definitely something 00:18:20.359 --> 00:18:24.640 I'd like to be able to work on and be able to 00:18:24.640 --> 00:18:28.079 show some good slab climbing next year. Is it 00:18:28.079 --> 00:18:30.880 like the time pressure or like the number of 00:18:30.880 --> 00:18:34.250 attempts that get to you? I think it's A lot 00:18:34.250 --> 00:18:36.210 of the time it's the sequence. I don't think 00:18:36.210 --> 00:18:39.549 I've ever been the best at like reading sequences 00:18:39.549 --> 00:18:44.829 from the ground, especially on slabs. So I like 00:18:44.829 --> 00:18:51.009 rely a lot on my intuition on the wall. But and 00:18:51.009 --> 00:18:54.210 then if I'm not feeling confident, it's hard 00:18:54.210 --> 00:18:57.769 to rely on that. And I think I struggle with 00:18:57.769 --> 00:19:00.410 being confident on the slabs in comps. So hopefully 00:19:00.410 --> 00:19:04.539 the next season. I can be more confident. Yeah, 00:19:04.640 --> 00:19:07.099 I think I'm super bad at reading from the ground 00:19:07.099 --> 00:19:08.900 too. Yeah, I find it so hard. That's something 00:19:08.900 --> 00:19:10.859 I need to work on. But I don't know how to work 00:19:10.859 --> 00:19:14.579 on it. Yeah, it's a tough one. And then sometimes, 00:19:14.799 --> 00:19:18.079 like, sometimes I think it's better to use your 00:19:18.079 --> 00:19:20.339 intuition. But then other times, like, you need 00:19:20.339 --> 00:19:23.039 to have, like, a plan A, a plan B. I don't know. 00:19:23.039 --> 00:19:25.240 It's hard to find the balance. How do you feel 00:19:25.240 --> 00:19:29.019 about, like, coordination style? I love coordination. 00:19:29.460 --> 00:19:32.910 Like, I think it's my favorite. kind of climbing 00:19:32.910 --> 00:19:35.769 yeah I really really like it do you have any 00:19:35.769 --> 00:19:38.589 tips there for how to figure them out more quickly 00:19:38.589 --> 00:19:42.569 I think for coordination a lot of it is like 00:19:42.569 --> 00:19:46.849 giving 100 % from the get -go and just committing 00:19:46.849 --> 00:19:49.930 like properly and even if it like because if 00:19:49.930 --> 00:19:52.049 it doesn't feel good at least you know that you've 00:19:52.049 --> 00:19:54.630 given it 100 % and you know it doesn't feel good 00:19:54.630 --> 00:19:57.450 that way I think that's really important um because 00:19:57.450 --> 00:20:01.099 if you don't commit then you don't know For me, 00:20:01.180 --> 00:20:03.880 often with coordination, I think of the position 00:20:03.880 --> 00:20:06.940 I want to end up in and then I trust my body 00:20:06.940 --> 00:20:10.799 that it's going to get me there and I just give 00:20:10.799 --> 00:20:14.619 it my all, I think. One of the comps that you 00:20:14.619 --> 00:20:17.880 did the best in was Prague. You ended up being 00:20:17.880 --> 00:20:20.400 in a finals position and then the event got rained 00:20:20.400 --> 00:20:24.640 out. What was that experience like? Prague was 00:20:24.640 --> 00:20:28.259 kind of crazy. Before the qualies, it was an 00:20:28.259 --> 00:20:32.920 afternoon qualies, um for my lunch i had some 00:20:32.920 --> 00:20:35.380 like i had other stuff but i had some breadsticks 00:20:35.380 --> 00:20:39.059 and hummus and it just looked like normal hummus 00:20:39.059 --> 00:20:41.900 um i eat hummus all the time i really like it 00:20:41.900 --> 00:20:47.240 um and then i ate some and my lips like started 00:20:47.240 --> 00:20:49.000 tingling and i was like oh this is really odd 00:20:49.000 --> 00:20:51.779 and then i like check the ingredients and i see 00:20:51.779 --> 00:20:54.019 that it's like peanut butter hummus and i'm allergic 00:20:54.019 --> 00:20:58.059 to peanuts um so then i started to have an allergic 00:20:58.059 --> 00:21:03.690 reaction um and this was how bad is it I'm not 00:21:03.690 --> 00:21:06.450 anaphylactic so my throat doesn't close up but 00:21:06.450 --> 00:21:09.609 I was like getting like hives and yeah and then 00:21:09.609 --> 00:21:12.750 my stomach started to hurt and I like took my 00:21:12.750 --> 00:21:16.329 pills and everything um my antihistamines um 00:21:16.329 --> 00:21:20.009 but it was like just before I headed to ISO I 00:21:20.009 --> 00:21:23.690 started to have the reaction um so I was just 00:21:23.690 --> 00:21:26.589 there like oh my gosh like what have I done like 00:21:26.589 --> 00:21:31.799 this is so bad um But then, I don't know, I went 00:21:31.799 --> 00:21:34.000 downstairs, we were going to head off to ISO 00:21:34.000 --> 00:21:35.460 and the coaches were just trying to be like, 00:21:35.519 --> 00:21:36.779 no, you're okay. Like, they were just trying 00:21:36.779 --> 00:21:38.900 to calm me down and, like, they were really good 00:21:38.900 --> 00:21:42.019 and, like, really supportive. So then we went 00:21:42.019 --> 00:21:46.259 to ISO and then I just, like, I felt so bad at 00:21:46.259 --> 00:21:49.700 this point. I just was talking to one of my coaches, 00:21:49.779 --> 00:21:52.779 like, I can't do it. Like, I was just, like, 00:21:52.859 --> 00:21:55.859 falling, I don't know, I felt sick, I was falling 00:21:55.859 --> 00:22:00.619 asleep, it was just everything. um and then we 00:22:00.619 --> 00:22:05.039 the it was raining and the comp got postponed 00:22:05.039 --> 00:22:08.839 so we got moved to some like museum and then 00:22:08.839 --> 00:22:10.960 we were there for a couple hours which was actually 00:22:10.960 --> 00:22:13.880 a blessing in disguise for me because I think 00:22:13.880 --> 00:22:19.400 um my reaction was like not so good at that time 00:22:19.400 --> 00:22:22.759 I was like um I was like going really hot then 00:22:22.759 --> 00:22:25.259 really cold then my whole body went red I don't 00:22:25.259 --> 00:22:29.680 know it was kind of crazy um So we moved to this 00:22:29.680 --> 00:22:32.720 museum for a couple of hours. We went back to 00:22:32.720 --> 00:22:38.759 the ISO for the comp. And then I was still like 00:22:38.759 --> 00:22:40.920 having the reaction, but it was definitely, it 00:22:40.920 --> 00:22:42.960 was like coming in waves and it was definitely 00:22:42.960 --> 00:22:46.059 a bit better. But I remember like warming up. 00:22:46.140 --> 00:22:52.039 I felt like so, so bad and like awful. But then 00:22:52.039 --> 00:22:55.660 the comp went ahead and it was at like 8pm, I 00:22:55.660 --> 00:23:01.910 think. um the qualies and uh by the time I actually 00:23:01.910 --> 00:23:07.009 got to like call zone for qualies the reaction 00:23:07.009 --> 00:23:12.170 had kind of stopped but um I hadn't eaten in 00:23:12.170 --> 00:23:15.029 like like since the hummus because I just couldn't 00:23:15.029 --> 00:23:18.490 stomach anything so I was I had like no energy 00:23:18.490 --> 00:23:24.869 um and yeah I think the coaches were really good 00:23:24.869 --> 00:23:29.019 like I was kind of freaking out and like, I'm 00:23:29.019 --> 00:23:31.799 not going to make semis. I really want to make 00:23:31.799 --> 00:23:34.039 semis. Like, this is all my fault. Like, why 00:23:34.039 --> 00:23:37.039 did I eat the hummus? But they were like, no, 00:23:37.099 --> 00:23:39.019 you can still make semis. Like your body can 00:23:39.019 --> 00:23:40.920 do more than you think, but it doesn't matter. 00:23:41.079 --> 00:23:43.579 Like you're doing all that you can do. Yeah. 00:23:43.700 --> 00:23:48.039 They were really supportive. And so I did qualities 00:23:48.039 --> 00:23:52.759 and I felt like so bad, but I, and then after 00:23:52.759 --> 00:23:55.509 qualities. I was like, there's no way I've made 00:23:55.509 --> 00:23:58.069 semis. Like, because I only got like two tops 00:23:58.069 --> 00:24:01.750 as well. And I was just like, no way. So we walked 00:24:01.750 --> 00:24:03.890 back to the hotel and then I just like checked 00:24:03.890 --> 00:24:06.349 the results. I was like, oh my gosh, wait, I'm 00:24:06.349 --> 00:24:10.349 in semis. And then I was like over the moon. 00:24:10.450 --> 00:24:12.849 Like I couldn't believe it. Like I was in semis. 00:24:12.849 --> 00:24:16.950 And then semis, we had a rest day in between. 00:24:17.049 --> 00:24:20.170 So the allergic reaction was all good by then. 00:24:20.859 --> 00:24:23.799 and semis went really really well what about 00:24:23.799 --> 00:24:28.480 that semis um went super well for you like was 00:24:28.480 --> 00:24:31.599 it just boulders that fit your style better um 00:24:31.599 --> 00:24:33.339 I think it was a mixture I think the boulders 00:24:33.339 --> 00:24:38.359 really suited me um and I think that uh because 00:24:38.359 --> 00:24:43.119 of the whole drama the day before I was just 00:24:43.119 --> 00:24:45.519 and because I qualified in the last place as 00:24:45.519 --> 00:24:47.940 well I was just like so grateful and happy to 00:24:47.940 --> 00:24:50.950 be there that I climbed so freely and I was just 00:24:50.950 --> 00:24:54.849 climbing really well I think and then you were 00:24:54.849 --> 00:24:58.009 getting ready to like climb in finals afterwards 00:24:58.009 --> 00:25:02.190 yeah yeah I guess I don't know the timing for 00:25:02.190 --> 00:25:04.930 how it all happened like you were still preparing 00:25:04.930 --> 00:25:08.069 for finals did you already start warming up or 00:25:08.069 --> 00:25:13.509 um yeah how did that go well so we let me think 00:25:13.509 --> 00:25:17.250 for finals yeah so me and Erin arrived and I 00:25:17.250 --> 00:25:20.579 say And I think we'd both started our warmup 00:25:20.579 --> 00:25:25.500 and then we got told maybe something would like, 00:25:25.539 --> 00:25:28.720 maybe it would be delayed a bit. And then I think 00:25:28.720 --> 00:25:30.940 we did some games or something. We were doing 00:25:30.940 --> 00:25:33.119 like a Harry Potter quiz at some point, I think, 00:25:33.119 --> 00:25:37.700 or maybe a friend's quiz. I don't know. But we 00:25:37.700 --> 00:25:40.480 definitely started the warmup and then we got 00:25:40.480 --> 00:25:42.079 told we were going to go out for presentation 00:25:42.079 --> 00:25:46.779 and we like got changed and whatnot. But then 00:25:46.779 --> 00:25:49.960 we were told the event was cancelled and we were 00:25:49.960 --> 00:25:53.319 just all like, oh my gosh. And it was, yeah, 00:25:53.420 --> 00:25:55.460 it was hard. Wait, I thought you were, how did 00:25:55.460 --> 00:25:57.839 you do a Harry Potter quiz or like friends quiz 00:25:57.839 --> 00:26:01.400 if you're not allowed devices in ISO? Oh, it 00:26:01.400 --> 00:26:05.119 was just like, we would think of questions. Oh, 00:26:05.119 --> 00:26:10.539 seriously? Yeah. I don't know. I think Aaron 00:26:10.539 --> 00:26:13.769 and one of our coaches. are both like quite big 00:26:13.769 --> 00:26:15.769 Harry Potter fans so they were like competing 00:26:15.769 --> 00:26:18.609 and one of the other coaches was asking questions 00:26:18.609 --> 00:26:23.529 okay yeah that's funny huh sounds fun I guess 00:26:23.529 --> 00:26:26.670 friends quiz was better I think yeah I was also 00:26:26.670 --> 00:26:30.410 a big friends fan um so yeah I guess how did 00:26:30.410 --> 00:26:32.690 you feel about not getting to compete in finals 00:26:32.690 --> 00:26:36.490 or did you have any feelings about of like nerves 00:26:36.490 --> 00:26:40.210 or excitement for finals uh I think for finals 00:26:40.210 --> 00:26:45.279 I was like just so excited because i didn't expect 00:26:45.279 --> 00:26:49.099 to be in a finals like it was only my third world 00:26:49.099 --> 00:26:53.400 cup and especially after qualifying in the last 00:26:53.400 --> 00:26:58.160 place being in finals felt crazy um so i was 00:26:58.160 --> 00:27:02.319 just so so excited um and then when it was cancelled 00:27:03.369 --> 00:27:06.789 i was yeah really upset and i my first thought 00:27:06.789 --> 00:27:09.910 was like oh no what if i'd never make a finals 00:27:09.910 --> 00:27:13.490 again and it's not like the first thought you 00:27:13.490 --> 00:27:17.109 want but um yeah i found it really hard i think 00:27:17.109 --> 00:27:21.329 and i think i found um burn world cup quite hard 00:27:21.329 --> 00:27:27.430 because i um it was the world cup after and uh 00:27:27.430 --> 00:27:30.569 i just like put too much pressure on wanting 00:27:30.569 --> 00:27:33.940 to be in the finals again Yeah, I guess pressure 00:27:33.940 --> 00:27:37.160 and like expectations is kind of always really 00:27:37.160 --> 00:27:41.099 difficult for athletes to work through. How do 00:27:41.099 --> 00:27:43.180 you feel about like the mental side of competitive 00:27:43.180 --> 00:27:45.960 climbing was another audience question that came 00:27:45.960 --> 00:27:48.619 through? Yeah, I think the mental side is something 00:27:48.619 --> 00:27:51.740 that I still need to work on quite a lot because 00:27:51.740 --> 00:27:56.720 I think it's really important. And I think being 00:27:56.720 --> 00:27:59.240 confident is really important in competition 00:27:59.240 --> 00:28:05.440 climbing, especially. But I think I've never 00:28:05.440 --> 00:28:09.319 seen like a sports psychologist or anything. 00:28:09.559 --> 00:28:12.059 I think it's definitely something I might look 00:28:12.059 --> 00:28:13.980 into before next season because I think it'd 00:28:13.980 --> 00:28:16.140 be really useful. Is there anything thinking 00:28:16.140 --> 00:28:19.339 back on your performance in Burn that you would 00:28:19.339 --> 00:28:23.579 have wanted to change? I think I wish I could 00:28:23.579 --> 00:28:27.059 have enjoyed the semifinal more. I think it's 00:28:27.059 --> 00:28:29.500 kind of silly because I'd only made like one 00:28:29.500 --> 00:28:33.650 final. but just because it was cancelled i found 00:28:33.650 --> 00:28:36.950 it quite hard to enjoy it because i was only 00:28:36.950 --> 00:28:40.349 thinking about making the final and rather than 00:28:40.349 --> 00:28:43.269 like uh being grateful for being in the semis 00:28:43.269 --> 00:28:47.349 and like being present on the boulders um yeah 00:28:47.349 --> 00:28:50.150 i wish i'd enjoyed that more because i think 00:28:50.150 --> 00:28:54.369 for me i climb my best when i'm like happy and 00:28:54.369 --> 00:28:57.589 yeah I guess like what were your thoughts during 00:28:57.589 --> 00:29:00.670 the semis on each boulder? Because I feel like 00:29:00.670 --> 00:29:04.329 personally for me, I mean, I've never done any 00:29:04.329 --> 00:29:06.450 competitions where there's like an ISO format, 00:29:06.509 --> 00:29:09.869 but during competitions, I am thinking pretty 00:29:09.869 --> 00:29:13.170 hard about like where, what boulders other people 00:29:13.170 --> 00:29:15.809 are doing versus ones I haven't done. Is that 00:29:15.809 --> 00:29:18.490 kind of what you mean when it comes to getting 00:29:18.490 --> 00:29:20.490 in your head during competitions when you're 00:29:20.490 --> 00:29:23.250 trying to think about getting into finals? I 00:29:23.250 --> 00:29:26.990 think kind of the comps where it or the rounds 00:29:26.990 --> 00:29:29.269 where I think it's going the best I end up not 00:29:29.269 --> 00:29:32.349 thinking about the external factors and stuff 00:29:32.349 --> 00:29:38.490 I can't control um but sometimes yeah I do I 00:29:38.490 --> 00:29:42.089 had like in the past I've definitely thought 00:29:42.089 --> 00:29:44.509 some of those things like if someone tops a boulder 00:29:44.509 --> 00:29:47.730 next to you rather than like being concentrated 00:29:47.730 --> 00:29:50.410 on my boulder my mind's going to that and I think 00:29:51.069 --> 00:29:54.670 Yeah, it's hard sometimes. And then, oh, do you 00:29:54.670 --> 00:29:57.150 get prize money from being in fifth place at 00:29:57.150 --> 00:29:59.630 prom? 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Back 00:30:31.740 --> 00:30:34.339 to the show. Yes, I did actually. I think I got 00:30:34.339 --> 00:30:39.200 1 .5k, which is quite good. Oh wait, that's not 00:30:39.200 --> 00:30:42.279 bad. Maybe like 1 ,300 euros actually. I'm not 00:30:42.279 --> 00:30:46.680 sure. But I think it was one of the good tiers 00:30:46.680 --> 00:30:48.910 for... prize money like i think there's like 00:30:48.910 --> 00:30:52.029 a silver platinum or something like that i think 00:30:52.029 --> 00:30:54.769 burn was high prize money too oh there's like 00:30:54.769 --> 00:30:58.410 differences between each world cup yeah prague 00:30:58.410 --> 00:31:02.049 and burn were higher prize money than other world 00:31:02.049 --> 00:31:05.130 cups i think oh i didn't know that yeah i heard 00:31:05.130 --> 00:31:07.970 like for some world cups the like even first 00:31:07.970 --> 00:31:10.529 place only gets like 2000 or something like that 00:31:10.529 --> 00:31:15.059 yeah i think so usually it's I think Burn was 00:31:15.059 --> 00:31:20.160 double what some other World Cups were. I mean, 00:31:20.200 --> 00:31:22.500 I could be wrong. Like, I don't want to spread 00:31:22.500 --> 00:31:24.980 false information. No, that's interesting. Yeah. 00:31:25.339 --> 00:31:30.619 I think it depends on maybe the individual host, 00:31:30.880 --> 00:31:33.500 I guess. I think so. Federation. A little. I'm 00:31:33.500 --> 00:31:35.960 not sure. Yeah, I didn't know there was so much 00:31:35.960 --> 00:31:38.920 difference between different comps, though. That's 00:31:38.920 --> 00:31:42.880 interesting. um and then another like general 00:31:42.880 --> 00:31:45.259 question I think you're kind of one of the slightly 00:31:45.259 --> 00:31:49.400 taller athletes yeah um yeah do you like remember 00:31:49.400 --> 00:31:52.079 that ever playing to your advantage or disadvantage 00:31:52.079 --> 00:31:55.220 at all during the season uh I think yeah it has 00:31:55.220 --> 00:31:58.700 its advantages and disadvantages definitely um 00:31:58.700 --> 00:32:02.059 some coordinations I think easier if you're taller 00:32:02.059 --> 00:32:06.200 um but also there was definitely some boulders 00:32:06.200 --> 00:32:12.230 this season that I found hard because of well 00:32:12.230 --> 00:32:15.750 it's not because of like it's something I need 00:32:15.750 --> 00:32:19.869 to work on um but there are definitely some small 00:32:19.869 --> 00:32:24.569 boxes this year that I could like train to fit 00:32:24.569 --> 00:32:28.009 in better I think what kind of moves are harder 00:32:28.009 --> 00:32:32.210 for you as a taller athlete uh I think like bunched 00:32:32.210 --> 00:32:35.750 positions I find quite hard um and like getting 00:32:35.750 --> 00:32:39.579 in and out of small boxes um based like it's 00:32:39.579 --> 00:32:43.200 something i can work on so just need to get my 00:32:43.200 --> 00:32:46.700 middle spirits yeah more stretching yeah yeah 00:32:46.700 --> 00:32:50.180 um so now getting a little bit into gb climbing 00:32:50.180 --> 00:32:53.200 um i feel like specifically the past couple years 00:32:53.200 --> 00:32:56.299 have been kind of crazy for team gb um almost 00:32:56.299 --> 00:32:58.220 seems like it came out of nowhere a little bit 00:32:58.220 --> 00:33:02.359 um what do you feel like it is that contributed 00:33:02.359 --> 00:33:05.319 to that is it like inspirational past athletes 00:33:05.319 --> 00:33:10.019 like having Shauna as like a um I don't know 00:33:10.019 --> 00:33:12.079 what's the word like idol or someone to look 00:33:12.079 --> 00:33:15.440 up to or is there like good gym density or what 00:33:15.440 --> 00:33:18.000 do you think contributes to it yeah I think the 00:33:18.000 --> 00:33:21.099 team's definitely transitioned a lot in the past 00:33:21.099 --> 00:33:26.240 couple years um and everyone is doing so well 00:33:26.240 --> 00:33:29.880 it's crazy I think, yeah, it's really useful 00:33:29.880 --> 00:33:32.220 to have like Shauna and people like that to look 00:33:32.220 --> 00:33:38.319 up to. But I think it's just, I don't know, I 00:33:38.319 --> 00:33:40.740 just think everyone is working really hard and 00:33:40.740 --> 00:33:43.180 everyone is looking around and you see all these 00:33:43.180 --> 00:33:47.059 people working hard. And yeah, it's really cool 00:33:47.059 --> 00:33:50.259 to be surrounded by really strong climbers at 00:33:50.259 --> 00:33:53.180 the World Cups. Is it because you guys don't 00:33:53.180 --> 00:33:55.619 even have like a national training center or 00:33:55.619 --> 00:34:02.079 anything? No, no. um so we used to have a training 00:34:02.079 --> 00:34:09.880 center um but it wasn't amazing uh and then last 00:34:09.880 --> 00:34:13.460 year i think a lot of the guys especially really 00:34:13.460 --> 00:34:17.199 struggled with getting on world cup level or 00:34:17.199 --> 00:34:20.989 style boulders um because a lot of the stuff 00:34:20.989 --> 00:34:23.750 you just can't set in a commercial gym and they 00:34:23.750 --> 00:34:27.050 just wouldn't set hard enough for the guys so 00:34:27.050 --> 00:34:29.769 this year um we've managed to get a bit more 00:34:29.769 --> 00:34:34.630 support and instead of having a training center 00:34:34.630 --> 00:34:41.670 GB decided to have to use some money to set uh 00:34:41.670 --> 00:34:44.969 climbs in depot climbing centers i don't know 00:34:44.969 --> 00:34:46.949 they're quite a big climbing chain in the uk 00:34:46.949 --> 00:34:51.429 so now we've got these project boulders up at 00:34:51.429 --> 00:34:55.030 different centers across the country and i think 00:34:55.030 --> 00:34:58.250 it's really really good and yeah it's useful 00:34:58.250 --> 00:35:03.250 i guess it's surprising to hear that um the team 00:35:03.250 --> 00:35:05.070 was struggling with having hard enough boulders 00:35:05.070 --> 00:35:07.969 set before because I think everyone was doing 00:35:07.969 --> 00:35:11.969 super well last year as well. Even on the men's 00:35:11.969 --> 00:35:17.150 side, you had Toby and Max and Diane and so many 00:35:17.150 --> 00:35:20.190 strong people. So it's surprising to hear. All 00:35:20.190 --> 00:35:22.570 of that was just on commercial sets and spray 00:35:22.570 --> 00:35:25.650 walling? I think a lot on the spray wall and 00:35:25.650 --> 00:35:29.289 a lot on the woody board, for sure. But also 00:35:29.289 --> 00:35:31.610 when they would all train together, they would 00:35:31.610 --> 00:35:35.659 make up a lot of moves. just like push each other 00:35:35.659 --> 00:35:37.599 a lot they would always do like slab eliminates 00:35:37.599 --> 00:35:41.280 and do everything they can to practice the world 00:35:41.280 --> 00:35:43.460 cup style without having the world cup boulders 00:35:43.460 --> 00:35:46.400 and i think them training with each other they 00:35:46.400 --> 00:35:48.639 pushed each other really hard and that was really 00:35:48.639 --> 00:35:53.119 good okay yeah what about like um on the female 00:35:53.119 --> 00:35:55.059 side like do you feel like the setting at commercial 00:35:55.059 --> 00:35:58.860 gyms is decent enough to train on for you guys 00:35:58.860 --> 00:36:08.159 um i think it physically it's okay um like if 00:36:08.159 --> 00:36:11.699 you make your way around enough centers you can 00:36:11.699 --> 00:36:14.460 definitely get enough physical boulders but i 00:36:14.460 --> 00:36:16.639 think a lot of them aren't in the world cup style 00:36:16.639 --> 00:36:20.639 um it's more just like it's kind of quite basic 00:36:20.639 --> 00:36:24.199 a lot of the climbing um but with the new mint 00:36:24.199 --> 00:36:27.340 boulders with the collaboration between gb and 00:36:27.340 --> 00:36:30.989 depot it's really good and we've got like world 00:36:30.989 --> 00:36:35.130 cup style holds and world cup style setting and 00:36:35.130 --> 00:36:37.809 the right level so it's been really really useful 00:36:37.809 --> 00:36:41.969 yeah i guess for a lot of people who well i would 00:36:41.969 --> 00:36:43.989 say most people don't get the chance to experience 00:36:43.989 --> 00:36:45.789 the difference between like world cup setting 00:36:45.789 --> 00:36:49.070 and commercial setting um how would you describe 00:36:49.070 --> 00:36:52.929 the difference and what it feels like i think 00:36:52.929 --> 00:36:58.099 world cup boulders are usually um like more dynamic 00:36:58.099 --> 00:37:00.980 and harder to read sometimes like you have like 00:37:00.980 --> 00:37:03.780 multiple options and sometimes you have to pick 00:37:03.780 --> 00:37:07.719 between options and also you just get like bigger 00:37:07.719 --> 00:37:11.320 moves and slabs just take up the whole panel 00:37:11.320 --> 00:37:15.300 and in a commercial center it's hard to like 00:37:15.300 --> 00:37:18.840 you can't really set like that so it's hard to 00:37:18.840 --> 00:37:22.079 get exposure on the world cup style slabs when 00:37:22.079 --> 00:37:25.960 yeah you don't have them Yeah, I guess I've seen 00:37:25.960 --> 00:37:29.940 a decent amount of commercial sets just because 00:37:29.940 --> 00:37:33.639 through YouTube videos that Aaron or Toby post. 00:37:33.739 --> 00:37:38.760 I feel like I see pretty interesting, at least 00:37:38.760 --> 00:37:40.940 dynamic boulders. Do you feel like the dynamic 00:37:40.940 --> 00:37:43.380 boulders compare at all to World Cup boulders? 00:37:43.860 --> 00:37:47.159 Yeah, I think occasionally we do get some really 00:37:47.159 --> 00:37:51.139 good dynamic boulders, but compared to some other 00:37:51.139 --> 00:37:54.159 nations, maybe we don't get enough of them. Or 00:37:54.159 --> 00:37:57.199 we'll get one a month and it'll be really good, 00:37:57.340 --> 00:37:59.900 but then we won't get another one for another 00:37:59.900 --> 00:38:02.900 month. But I think it's changing a lot now, which 00:38:02.900 --> 00:38:05.340 is really nice to see. Yeah, I think it's just 00:38:05.340 --> 00:38:07.059 from the videos. I feel like you guys have a 00:38:07.059 --> 00:38:09.500 lot of fun comp style setting. But it's hard 00:38:09.500 --> 00:38:12.940 to tell just from videos. Yeah. Speaking of which, 00:38:13.000 --> 00:38:15.360 I feel like British people have always been killing 00:38:15.360 --> 00:38:18.019 it in the YouTube scene. I don't know why. Yeah, 00:38:18.039 --> 00:38:20.139 there is a lot of British YouTubers, I think. 00:38:20.619 --> 00:38:23.119 Back in the day, like, there was a whole, like, 00:38:23.139 --> 00:38:27.340 vlog squad on YouTube. Oh, like Zamala? Yeah. 00:38:27.900 --> 00:38:30.000 Oh, really? No, I'm talking about that too, yeah. 00:38:30.079 --> 00:38:31.840 Oh, okay. Oh, I love it. Do you watch her videos 00:38:31.840 --> 00:38:35.500 now? No, I just saw that she started, like, posting 00:38:35.500 --> 00:38:37.840 videos again. Yeah, oh, I've started watching 00:38:37.840 --> 00:38:40.500 them again. I love them. I don't know, it, like, 00:38:40.500 --> 00:38:44.320 brings me right back to 2016. Yeah. Yeah, it's 00:38:44.320 --> 00:38:46.900 so interesting. It's just, like, I don't know, 00:38:46.920 --> 00:38:49.500 ever since YouTube started, it's been very, like... 00:38:49.690 --> 00:38:52.429 british focus yeah there are a lot of british 00:38:52.429 --> 00:38:54.869 youtubers to be fair it's interesting did she 00:38:54.869 --> 00:38:58.150 just start posting again or was she posting the 00:38:58.150 --> 00:39:00.090 whole time but people weren't watching i'm not 00:39:00.090 --> 00:39:02.829 sure maybe she was i hadn't watched her since 00:39:02.829 --> 00:39:08.289 like 2016 um but then a couple years ago when 00:39:08.289 --> 00:39:13.409 she had otty or otterly uh one of her kids wait 00:39:13.409 --> 00:39:16.199 what is that Oh my god, she has kids now? Yeah, 00:39:16.239 --> 00:39:18.380 she has two children. It's insane. Oh my god, 00:39:18.420 --> 00:39:20.880 I had no idea. And her dog is still around, Nala. 00:39:21.119 --> 00:39:25.280 Oh yeah, wow. I've been watching her recently. 00:39:25.380 --> 00:39:27.500 She posted like Christmas and her kids are so 00:39:27.500 --> 00:39:30.679 cute. I'll have to take a look. Yeah, they were 00:39:30.679 --> 00:39:34.780 so cute. It was wholesome times. Yeah, no, 2016 00:39:34.780 --> 00:39:37.829 was a good year. But anyway, I guess back to 00:39:37.829 --> 00:39:41.070 the climbing portion. Yeah, a lot of British 00:39:41.070 --> 00:39:43.469 YouTube climbers as well. So that's interesting 00:39:43.469 --> 00:39:47.550 to see. Another audience question that came through, 00:39:47.769 --> 00:39:52.010 it felt like you also burst onto the climbing 00:39:52.010 --> 00:39:55.570 scene. Do you have a similar feeling about that? 00:39:55.769 --> 00:39:58.090 Like, do you kind of feel like it was a slow 00:39:58.090 --> 00:40:01.530 build or did you feel like you did a lot better 00:40:01.530 --> 00:40:04.590 than you expected this season? No, I think I 00:40:04.590 --> 00:40:08.269 did do... um better than expected this season 00:40:08.269 --> 00:40:10.750 um because obviously and obviously I didn't do 00:40:10.750 --> 00:40:14.570 world cups the previous season um because we 00:40:14.570 --> 00:40:17.530 didn't have that many spots and I wasn't at the 00:40:17.530 --> 00:40:21.070 level to get one of the like two spots we had 00:40:21.070 --> 00:40:26.829 I think um but I think definitely like over the 00:40:26.829 --> 00:40:31.409 years I've um improved but this year was definitely 00:40:31.409 --> 00:40:35.150 my biggest like jump I think Yeah, I guess from 00:40:35.150 --> 00:40:37.769 the audience perspective, it was kind of like 00:40:37.769 --> 00:40:43.769 you just showed up in semis and no one had heard 00:40:43.769 --> 00:40:46.030 of you before because most people don't watch 00:40:46.030 --> 00:40:49.050 like youth climbing. Yeah. A lot of people don't 00:40:49.050 --> 00:40:53.030 watch like the European cups either. And so you 00:40:53.030 --> 00:40:55.469 kind of just like showed up and did pretty well. 00:40:56.389 --> 00:41:00.070 And so I'm assuming people are probably kind 00:41:00.070 --> 00:41:03.670 of wondering, like, did you. kind of know that 00:41:03.670 --> 00:41:06.670 your level was up there or did you feel like 00:41:06.670 --> 00:41:10.250 um you were competing at a different level the 00:41:10.250 --> 00:41:13.469 previous season um i'd started to get like good 00:41:13.469 --> 00:41:17.090 youth results um and i won the european youth 00:41:17.090 --> 00:41:20.429 championships at the end of that year um and 00:41:20.429 --> 00:41:23.829 then i really wanted to make it to the world 00:41:23.829 --> 00:41:29.309 cup team for the 2025 season um and then before 00:41:29.309 --> 00:41:33.550 the season we had um the British Championships 00:41:33.550 --> 00:41:41.670 where I came second but I didn't know like I 00:41:41.670 --> 00:41:44.889 knew that Erin was at a really high level but 00:41:44.889 --> 00:41:48.429 she was like she's yeah she was really strong 00:41:48.429 --> 00:41:52.989 and I didn't really have like a gauge of what 00:41:52.989 --> 00:42:01.650 level I was at but yeah and I think um yeah i 00:42:01.650 --> 00:42:04.969 found it like going into kachow i found it hard 00:42:04.969 --> 00:42:09.630 not really knowing where i was at um i don't 00:42:09.630 --> 00:42:12.510 know like i got a lot stronger and i felt a lot 00:42:12.510 --> 00:42:15.909 stronger but yeah yeah so i guess going back 00:42:15.909 --> 00:42:18.469 into climbing in the commercial gym scene in 00:42:18.469 --> 00:42:22.590 the uk um what is the uk like climbing culture 00:42:22.590 --> 00:42:25.050 like since i feel like you guys also have a lot 00:42:25.050 --> 00:42:28.969 of gyms around yeah yeah i think on the whole 00:42:28.969 --> 00:42:34.170 it's really good and i really like going to like 00:42:34.170 --> 00:42:36.730 my local gym and seeing everyone there there's 00:42:36.730 --> 00:42:40.730 like a bit of a crew on the wooden board and 00:42:40.730 --> 00:42:44.530 they're like all so supportive and yeah i think 00:42:44.530 --> 00:42:47.429 on the whole the culture is nice but definitely 00:42:47.429 --> 00:42:53.369 um there's definitely negative sides to it and 00:42:53.369 --> 00:43:00.059 sometimes uh like I find a lot of the gyms are 00:43:00.059 --> 00:43:02.840 still quite male dominated or like the training 00:43:02.840 --> 00:43:07.980 spaces can be quite male dominated um and I find 00:43:07.980 --> 00:43:10.639 it okay I think now because I'm like confident 00:43:10.639 --> 00:43:14.840 within myself and yeah but I definitely found 00:43:14.840 --> 00:43:18.219 it kind of hard growing up sometimes with that 00:43:18.219 --> 00:43:22.380 male dominated space hmm interesting I guess 00:43:22.380 --> 00:43:25.039 like what like i don't know what do you feel 00:43:25.039 --> 00:43:29.340 like that came with um just sometimes like when 00:43:29.340 --> 00:43:32.860 i was younger i mean it happens now but um i 00:43:32.860 --> 00:43:36.639 just don't let it bother me really but it's just 00:43:36.639 --> 00:43:40.199 like i would go on a climb and let's say some 00:43:40.199 --> 00:43:42.579 guy was on the climb as well and i would like 00:43:42.579 --> 00:43:47.000 flash the climb and then they'll just like make 00:43:47.000 --> 00:43:49.699 a comment or say like oh, like if I was as light 00:43:49.699 --> 00:43:52.320 as you, I'd do that climb. And I was just like, 00:43:52.519 --> 00:43:58.219 no, no, no. I remember one time I was doing like 00:43:58.219 --> 00:44:00.500 one arm of training and then a guy said to me 00:44:00.500 --> 00:44:02.619 like, oh, like how light do you have to be to 00:44:02.619 --> 00:44:04.599 be able to do that? And I was just like, no, 00:44:04.760 --> 00:44:09.260 like, no. I don't know. Just like, yeah. I've 00:44:09.260 --> 00:44:12.119 heard people like talk about that on like Reddit 00:44:12.119 --> 00:44:13.980 before, but it's never actually happened to me 00:44:13.980 --> 00:44:19.250 before. No, yeah. And I'm like very, like stickly 00:44:19.250 --> 00:44:22.550 so I guess I'm surprised that no one's ever said 00:44:22.550 --> 00:44:25.329 it to me but yeah did you have like a response 00:44:25.329 --> 00:44:28.329 for that or did you just walk away I think I 00:44:28.329 --> 00:44:30.909 just kind of ignored it like didn't give it the 00:44:30.909 --> 00:44:32.889 time of day yeah I'm just trying to think if 00:44:32.889 --> 00:44:34.869 like anything weird has happened to me I know 00:44:34.869 --> 00:44:37.869 people have mentioned like or sometimes I kind 00:44:37.869 --> 00:44:40.269 of get the feeling that I'll come off of a climb 00:44:40.269 --> 00:44:44.670 and then they'll like try it oh my gosh they 00:44:44.670 --> 00:44:46.889 got when the guys see you on the climb and they 00:44:47.900 --> 00:44:51.380 yeah that's the most annoying thing yeah i get 00:44:51.380 --> 00:44:55.320 it all the time like i'll be on like v i don't 00:44:55.320 --> 00:44:58.280 know like v9 or v10 or whatever and they'll be 00:44:58.280 --> 00:45:01.039 on like a v3 and then they'll suddenly i don't 00:45:01.039 --> 00:45:03.400 know i'm all for like people coming to train 00:45:03.400 --> 00:45:05.420 with me and like trying the same climbs as me 00:45:05.420 --> 00:45:07.460 like i think that's great like and like pushing 00:45:07.460 --> 00:45:11.059 yourself on climbs that are like too hard for 00:45:11.059 --> 00:45:15.239 you um But when they're on like a V3 and they 00:45:15.239 --> 00:45:18.679 see a female on a hard climb and then try to 00:45:18.679 --> 00:45:22.380 pull on, it's just like, oh my gosh. Yeah. Yeah. 00:45:22.440 --> 00:45:24.679 But I mean, at least they can try it and then 00:45:24.679 --> 00:45:27.280 see that it's not so simple. Yeah. Yeah. Have 00:45:27.280 --> 00:45:29.630 you ever had them like... I don't know the other 00:45:29.630 --> 00:45:32.789 day I was on this board climb and this guy came 00:45:32.789 --> 00:45:35.489 over from another area of the board because he 00:45:35.489 --> 00:45:38.030 saw me on this climb and he like tried to pull 00:45:38.030 --> 00:45:40.250 on like couldn't pull on tried to do the first 00:45:40.250 --> 00:45:41.849 move couldn't do the first two and then he like 00:45:41.849 --> 00:45:44.070 walked away like holding his back and I was like 00:45:44.070 --> 00:45:48.590 oh okay okay that doesn't happen to me as often 00:45:48.590 --> 00:45:50.489 because I don't think I'm climbing things that 00:45:50.489 --> 00:45:54.610 are as hard um but well actually I don't know 00:45:54.610 --> 00:45:57.789 maybe the culture is pretty good because if that 00:45:58.139 --> 00:46:01.239 does happen a lot of times i mean i feel like 00:46:01.239 --> 00:46:02.760 a lot of times they'll just be watching from 00:46:02.760 --> 00:46:06.440 afar and then if i send it or don't they'll just 00:46:06.440 --> 00:46:09.760 talk about like how hard it looked or that or 00:46:09.760 --> 00:46:11.360 like a lot of times they'll be like oh i could 00:46:11.360 --> 00:46:15.000 like never do that so yeah maybe the culture 00:46:15.000 --> 00:46:19.360 here is just a bit more nice at least vocally 00:46:19.360 --> 00:46:21.119 i don't know what they're thinking inside their 00:46:21.119 --> 00:46:24.639 heads um but yeah that's unfortunate that it's 00:46:24.639 --> 00:46:27.000 still kind of like that but hopefully maybe it'll 00:46:27.000 --> 00:46:31.900 shift yeah I think like recently I think we're 00:46:31.900 --> 00:46:34.639 seeing a lot more women in the gym and I think 00:46:34.639 --> 00:46:37.079 like 90 % of the guys you meet in a carnival 00:46:37.079 --> 00:46:40.500 are lovely and are so supportive um but there's 00:46:40.500 --> 00:46:45.059 definitely still a bit of that around yeah um 00:46:45.059 --> 00:46:50.360 so then outside of climbing or like uh competition 00:46:50.360 --> 00:46:54.550 climbing a bit um do you get much time to climb 00:46:54.550 --> 00:46:58.630 outside or does it interest you at all uh I yeah 00:46:58.630 --> 00:47:02.670 I've I do have a lot of time now to be fair because 00:47:02.670 --> 00:47:06.409 I'm not in uni anymore um but just with training 00:47:06.409 --> 00:47:10.329 uh I don't have so much time or like skin I guess 00:47:10.329 --> 00:47:13.349 to climb outside but I really enjoy it and I 00:47:13.349 --> 00:47:16.050 would love to get out more do you have any like 00:47:16.050 --> 00:47:18.530 projects in mind or is it just like you really 00:47:18.530 --> 00:47:20.389 don't have the time to even think about it right 00:47:20.389 --> 00:47:23.519 now I've not thought about it like properly but 00:47:23.519 --> 00:47:27.300 um i do want to go try i don't know if you've 00:47:27.300 --> 00:47:30.940 heard of the joker or and the ace they're like 00:47:30.940 --> 00:47:34.820 it's an 8a and an 8b at stanage uh in the peak 00:47:34.820 --> 00:47:38.199 district of that area oh i i guess in the peak 00:47:38.199 --> 00:47:41.860 district yeah but i'm like very not outdoor climbing 00:47:41.860 --> 00:47:45.739 yeah no no don't worry um no there's there's 00:47:45.739 --> 00:47:48.280 a couple like peak district classics that i want 00:47:48.280 --> 00:47:54.110 to try um but Other than that, I've not, yeah, 00:47:54.250 --> 00:47:57.030 I've not really thought about it, but I would 00:47:57.030 --> 00:47:59.469 love to go outdoors more. I mean, fine by me. 00:47:59.530 --> 00:48:02.949 I love competitions. That's all I want to talk 00:48:02.949 --> 00:48:06.789 about. You mentioned that you aren't doing university 00:48:06.789 --> 00:48:09.889 this year, but I guess, were you doing it before? 00:48:10.349 --> 00:48:15.949 Yeah. So I did my end of school exams and then 00:48:15.949 --> 00:48:19.449 I took a gap year. And then I started uni in 00:48:19.449 --> 00:48:26.389 Leeds and I was studying biology. And then that 00:48:26.389 --> 00:48:31.750 was until I was in first year. And then earlier 00:48:31.750 --> 00:48:37.030 on this year, I decided to drop out. And I want 00:48:37.030 --> 00:48:40.190 to go back, but I just want to focus solely on 00:48:40.190 --> 00:48:42.329 the climbing for now, I think. I think in the 00:48:42.329 --> 00:48:46.150 UK, it's quite hard to do both or do both well, 00:48:46.269 --> 00:48:48.860 in my opinion. yeah that makes sense and I guess 00:48:48.860 --> 00:48:51.940 you can always go back at some point yeah I think 00:48:51.940 --> 00:48:54.159 my thing I don't know it was hard because I've 00:48:54.159 --> 00:48:55.980 always been like really academic and really liked 00:48:55.980 --> 00:49:00.159 school but my thinking was that I can go to uni 00:49:00.159 --> 00:49:02.800 anytime and you can only be a comp climber at 00:49:02.800 --> 00:49:05.079 like one time in your life really I don't know 00:49:05.079 --> 00:49:08.780 or not only but I don't know like there's a limit 00:49:08.780 --> 00:49:11.280 on comp climbing and you can go to uni anytime 00:49:11.679 --> 00:49:14.719 Yeah, you got to take advantage of your working 00:49:14.719 --> 00:49:17.139 body when you're young, I guess, is what I think. 00:49:18.199 --> 00:49:21.039 No, I think I follow a similar thing. Like I 00:49:21.039 --> 00:49:24.420 should do all of the crazy sports that I can 00:49:24.420 --> 00:49:27.739 now and then save. No, definitely. Yeah, save 00:49:27.739 --> 00:49:30.360 the sedentary hobbies for later. Like I have 00:49:30.360 --> 00:49:32.280 a whole plan of like what I'm going to do once 00:49:32.280 --> 00:49:34.760 I can't move anymore. I feel like a lot of my 00:49:34.760 --> 00:49:38.679 hobbies are the... when you can't move hobbies 00:49:38.679 --> 00:49:41.380 to be fair like I love like a crossword or something 00:49:41.380 --> 00:49:44.940 but okay yeah well what what else do you like 00:49:44.940 --> 00:49:48.940 to do without using your body uh I really like 00:49:48.940 --> 00:49:53.940 baking uh bake quite a lot uh yeah baking crosswords 00:49:53.940 --> 00:49:56.599 crosswords interesting well what do you like 00:49:56.599 --> 00:49:59.000 to bake one of my favorite bakes is like this 00:49:59.000 --> 00:50:01.840 passion fruitcake I've made that's really good 00:50:01.840 --> 00:50:06.199 um and then I think just a lot of cakes, to be 00:50:06.199 --> 00:50:08.260 honest. I make a good chocolate and strawberry 00:50:08.260 --> 00:50:11.980 cake too. Do you also do the decorating or just 00:50:11.980 --> 00:50:15.340 the cake making part? Yeah, both. Cake decorating 00:50:15.340 --> 00:50:18.880 is going to be one of my sedentary hobbies one 00:50:18.880 --> 00:50:21.860 day in the future. Yeah, it's a good one. Do 00:50:21.860 --> 00:50:26.360 you do extravagant decorations? No, I'm not that 00:50:26.360 --> 00:50:29.389 good. I'm just like, let's do it for fun. Yeah, 00:50:29.389 --> 00:50:32.110 no, that's a fun one. I'm excited to do that. 00:50:32.670 --> 00:50:36.610 Back when you were still studying and doing climbing 00:50:36.610 --> 00:50:39.030 at the same time, what did that balance look 00:50:39.030 --> 00:50:44.849 like? I think it was quite hard, especially so 00:50:44.849 --> 00:50:49.849 when I was doing my end of school exams in my 00:50:49.849 --> 00:50:53.210 school, we do like A -levels in the UK in your 00:50:53.210 --> 00:50:56.989 last two years of school. so you pick three subjects 00:50:56.989 --> 00:51:00.829 and you do them i was doing maths chemistry biology 00:51:00.829 --> 00:51:05.650 um and in my school we had to be in school full 00:51:05.650 --> 00:51:11.349 time and um like nine till four or whatever and 00:51:11.349 --> 00:51:13.670 then i had training as well and i found that 00:51:13.670 --> 00:51:16.690 hard but also i wasn't training as much as i 00:51:16.690 --> 00:51:20.250 do now um and then during the gap year obviously 00:51:20.250 --> 00:51:22.969 it was fine and then when i went back to uni 00:51:22.969 --> 00:51:26.969 or when i went to uni I found it like really 00:51:26.969 --> 00:51:30.670 really hard because I was training to try to 00:51:30.670 --> 00:51:33.309 get on world cup team like six days a week and 00:51:33.309 --> 00:51:36.309 then yeah I was in uni like four days a week 00:51:36.309 --> 00:51:40.389 and it was hard with like some lectures would 00:51:40.389 --> 00:51:46.909 just be timed so badly and yeah it was not like 00:51:46.909 --> 00:51:49.929 sustainable I was like so tired all the time 00:51:49.929 --> 00:51:52.610 and I was like missing lectures like missing 00:51:52.610 --> 00:51:55.349 parts of training and it was like not good how 00:51:55.349 --> 00:51:59.929 many hours a day were you doing training uh maybe 00:51:59.929 --> 00:52:05.550 like six I would say um I very much like prioritized 00:52:05.550 --> 00:52:09.719 the training over the uni like um i would do 00:52:09.719 --> 00:52:11.980 my lectures but a lot of them were online and 00:52:11.980 --> 00:52:14.619 i would i was on like the sports scholarship 00:52:14.619 --> 00:52:20.179 thing so i could do i like spoke to my um supervisor 00:52:20.179 --> 00:52:23.239 and whatnot and i could do a lot online but it 00:52:23.239 --> 00:52:27.739 was still just like so much to do all that i 00:52:27.739 --> 00:52:31.239 think and i yeah didn't want to do both badly 00:52:31.719 --> 00:52:34.019 I guess, were you also living at home at that 00:52:34.019 --> 00:52:36.980 time? I don't really know what the school experience 00:52:36.980 --> 00:52:40.179 is like in the UK, but I guess like in the US, 00:52:40.239 --> 00:52:43.059 you're like living in dorms on campus and then 00:52:43.059 --> 00:52:45.079 it's kind of like the whole experience. Yeah, 00:52:45.079 --> 00:52:49.340 yeah. No, so I moved into like student halls 00:52:49.340 --> 00:52:51.860 and there was like four of us in a flat and we 00:52:51.860 --> 00:52:55.809 shared a kitchen. But then since then. Since 00:52:55.809 --> 00:52:58.010 I dropped out of uni, I've moved back home and 00:52:58.010 --> 00:53:01.250 now I'm looking for apartments in Leeds because 00:53:01.250 --> 00:53:03.969 I want to move over there for training. Is that 00:53:03.969 --> 00:53:06.889 like where the better gyms are? Yeah, I think 00:53:06.889 --> 00:53:12.110 Leeds, Sheffield, Manchester is like the UK climbing 00:53:12.110 --> 00:53:15.949 triangle at the moment. I think for comp climbing, 00:53:16.170 --> 00:53:20.829 the better gyms are in Leeds and Sheffield and 00:53:20.829 --> 00:53:24.019 I think also the scene over there. is better 00:53:24.019 --> 00:53:27.360 at the moment and training with uh other strong 00:53:27.360 --> 00:53:29.739 comp climbers is really good yeah it always seems 00:53:29.739 --> 00:53:33.579 like that helps um okay cool so let's move into 00:53:33.579 --> 00:53:36.440 some of the other grab bag audience submitted 00:53:36.440 --> 00:53:41.179 questions now um the first one from kaito102 00:53:41.179 --> 00:53:43.980 how do you decide which teams to train at locally 00:53:43.980 --> 00:53:48.380 or internationally um locally i think it depends 00:53:48.380 --> 00:53:52.929 what's on my training plan um i try to like Look 00:53:52.929 --> 00:53:55.929 at the focus of the day and pick the best gym 00:53:55.929 --> 00:53:59.869 possible for that. But obviously some days I'll 00:53:59.869 --> 00:54:02.170 be able to go to Leeds or Sheffield on the train 00:54:02.170 --> 00:54:04.030 and some days I'll have to stick to, because 00:54:04.030 --> 00:54:07.949 I'm currently based in Manchester. So I think 00:54:07.949 --> 00:54:11.150 I just kind of pick the best day for the plan 00:54:11.150 --> 00:54:16.989 and what I can do. I think during training camps, 00:54:17.289 --> 00:54:21.170 like we go to Paris a decent amount for training 00:54:21.170 --> 00:54:27.250 camps. um and you just go to the gyms with the 00:54:27.250 --> 00:54:30.369 best boulders i think like maybe we'll ask someone 00:54:30.369 --> 00:54:33.849 on the french team like oh like what what gyms 00:54:33.849 --> 00:54:38.110 are good and then similarly uh during the season 00:54:38.110 --> 00:54:41.849 um the coaches will talk to other coaches and 00:54:41.849 --> 00:54:43.969 it'll be like oh this gym's good they've got 00:54:43.969 --> 00:54:48.179 good con boulders up or something And then I 00:54:48.179 --> 00:54:50.920 guess like when you're traveling for competitions, 00:54:50.960 --> 00:54:55.699 do you have like a method of picking gyms to 00:54:55.699 --> 00:54:58.659 train at? People just ask around and we talk 00:54:58.659 --> 00:55:02.659 to our coaches or we'll talk to other athletes 00:55:02.659 --> 00:55:05.320 and be like, oh, this gym wasn't very good. This 00:55:05.320 --> 00:55:08.159 gym was good. Honestly, you can see a lot on 00:55:08.159 --> 00:55:11.000 Instagram, I think. Like I always like go on 00:55:11.000 --> 00:55:12.639 the gym's page, look what they've been tagged 00:55:12.639 --> 00:55:15.579 in and then see if the bowl does look any good. 00:55:16.039 --> 00:55:19.699 Yeah, that makes sense. Next one from ADHD climber 00:55:19.699 --> 00:55:22.219 one. What's your advice for making climbing shoes 00:55:22.219 --> 00:55:26.480 last? Making climbing shoes last? Yeah. I don't 00:55:26.480 --> 00:55:28.159 know if I'm the best to answer this question 00:55:28.159 --> 00:55:30.000 because I feel like mine don't last very long. 00:55:30.500 --> 00:55:33.599 How long does it usually last for you? Gosh, 00:55:33.679 --> 00:55:36.840 I mean, I'll use a different pair for unless 00:55:36.840 --> 00:55:39.820 there's like a comp back to back. I think I'll 00:55:39.820 --> 00:55:42.659 use a different pair for every comp. Oh, really? 00:55:42.900 --> 00:55:48.239 But in training. uh like not even like four weeks 00:55:48.239 --> 00:55:50.699 I don't like maybe like three weeks or something 00:55:50.699 --> 00:55:52.659 I don't know it depends how much salve I'm doing 00:55:52.659 --> 00:55:55.400 if I'm doing loads of salve oh seriously yeah 00:55:55.400 --> 00:56:00.239 I mean and it depends how long I wear them like 00:56:00.239 --> 00:56:02.380 if I wear them till they die and get holes in 00:56:02.380 --> 00:56:07.719 or if I don't but I think yeah I really don't 00:56:07.719 --> 00:56:11.510 think shoes last me oh my gosh I think I'm training 00:56:11.510 --> 00:56:13.550 wrong because mine lasts for like a year and 00:56:13.550 --> 00:56:15.809 a half at least and I thought that was short 00:56:15.809 --> 00:56:21.130 yeah what holy crap wait so and for every comp 00:56:21.130 --> 00:56:27.130 you usually do a new pair I think yeah like for 00:56:27.130 --> 00:56:29.929 comps I like them to be broken in like a specific 00:56:29.929 --> 00:56:33.750 amount yeah what's your like timeline I don't 00:56:33.750 --> 00:56:36.210 really have a timeline but I wear dragos and 00:56:36.210 --> 00:56:40.510 sometimes I like when There's like the branding 00:56:40.510 --> 00:56:42.909 on the bottom of the shoe. When that's gone, 00:56:43.110 --> 00:56:45.250 I think that's a good indicator for me. That's 00:56:45.250 --> 00:56:49.710 like the perfect shoe level. Yeah. Oh, that's 00:56:49.710 --> 00:56:52.070 so specific. But yeah, that helps because I have 00:56:52.070 --> 00:56:56.409 noticed that too. Yeah. But if the comps like 00:56:56.409 --> 00:57:00.289 between Prague and Bern this year, I think I 00:57:00.289 --> 00:57:04.130 wore the same pair. But I didn't like training 00:57:04.130 --> 00:57:06.789 them in between. So I had a different pair with 00:57:06.789 --> 00:57:09.639 me to train in. so i'll like do that sometimes 00:57:09.639 --> 00:57:15.699 but if yeah i'll yeah use different shoes for 00:57:15.699 --> 00:57:18.719 every comp and then but like recently i've been 00:57:18.719 --> 00:57:21.320 just using old comp shoes like getting through 00:57:21.320 --> 00:57:24.039 all ben um so i don't let them go to waste but 00:57:24.039 --> 00:57:28.300 wow so i mean that's like how many boulder comps 00:57:28.300 --> 00:57:31.500 in a year seven pairs of shoes during the season 00:57:31.500 --> 00:57:36.199 wow and I can't believe you go through it in 00:57:36.199 --> 00:57:39.800 four weeks I think I'm not climbing slab properly 00:57:39.800 --> 00:57:44.219 or you are and I'm climbing slab badly and just 00:57:44.219 --> 00:57:47.920 like going through the shoes yeah no I don't 00:57:47.920 --> 00:57:50.280 know about that although I think sometimes I 00:57:50.280 --> 00:57:53.280 am a little too careful with my shoes like sometimes 00:57:53.280 --> 00:57:57.840 I think I'm not committing to a move specifically 00:57:57.840 --> 00:58:00.139 because I'm like oh my gosh I want to use a lot 00:58:00.139 --> 00:58:05.179 of rubber like if I mess this up yeah wow okay 00:58:05.179 --> 00:58:08.480 no that's interesting to to hear so no advice 00:58:08.480 --> 00:58:10.780 for making climbing shoes last I don't think 00:58:10.780 --> 00:58:15.280 so no I'm so sorry yeah I have advice for breaking 00:58:15.280 --> 00:58:18.619 them in um yeah yeah what's that yeah I recently 00:58:18.619 --> 00:58:24.210 um I actually I got this advice from Quinn who's 00:58:24.210 --> 00:58:27.989 on the US team so I can't like claim to have 00:58:27.989 --> 00:58:30.309 come up with it but I've been bringing a hair 00:58:30.309 --> 00:58:33.570 dryer to the wall um so when it's cold I like 00:58:33.570 --> 00:58:37.030 blast the shoes with the hair dryer and it makes 00:58:37.030 --> 00:58:39.010 breaking them in so much easier and then I also 00:58:39.010 --> 00:58:41.349 wear like plastic bags to break them in because 00:58:41.349 --> 00:58:44.250 otherwise it's too painful but yeah but the hair 00:58:44.250 --> 00:58:46.610 dryer is such a good hack especially for the 00:58:46.610 --> 00:58:50.550 winter I think Yeah, I bet. I don't really experience 00:58:50.550 --> 00:58:54.329 that much winter here in California. Oh, in California. 00:58:54.889 --> 00:58:58.409 Yeah, but it does still get cold, in my opinion. 00:58:58.750 --> 00:59:02.710 Yeah. And I usually just kind of like sit on 00:59:02.710 --> 00:59:05.190 my shoes for a while. Yeah, that probably works 00:59:05.190 --> 00:59:07.789 too, to be fair. Maybe you don't need to carry 00:59:07.789 --> 00:59:10.429 around the big hedge right with you. It seems 00:59:10.429 --> 00:59:12.510 nice, though. I think that would be more comfortable. 00:59:13.099 --> 00:59:16.139 okay cool next question from daniel strucker 00:59:16.139 --> 00:59:18.980 um what was your favorite boulder from the brussels 00:59:18.980 --> 00:59:22.659 european cup oh where you got first so congrats 00:59:22.659 --> 00:59:26.019 on that thank you um my favorite boulder was 00:59:26.019 --> 00:59:29.039 definitely the last boulder in finals it was 00:59:29.039 --> 00:59:33.619 this paddle dino um and it was so good i didn't 00:59:33.619 --> 00:59:36.179 top it actually i fell off the last move but 00:59:36.179 --> 00:59:38.619 i really really liked that boulder that was really 00:59:38.619 --> 00:59:42.960 good was that like the competition winner for 00:59:42.960 --> 00:59:45.900 you or like the what's the word I like the comp 00:59:45.900 --> 00:59:48.880 the boulder which won me the comp or yeah yeah 00:59:48.880 --> 00:59:51.780 no actually it was the only one I didn't top 00:59:51.780 --> 00:59:57.300 in the finals it was the last one um but yeah 00:59:57.300 --> 00:59:59.179 I don't know I really really enjoyed that comp 00:59:59.179 --> 01:00:02.820 it was maybe one of my or that round it was maybe 01:00:02.820 --> 01:00:05.019 my favorite round or one of my favorite rounds 01:00:05.019 --> 01:00:10.670 of the season um and I think like i don't know 01:00:10.670 --> 01:00:13.730 the crowd was just like so good in brussels and 01:00:13.730 --> 01:00:16.449 the music was so good and my round was going 01:00:16.449 --> 01:00:20.030 really well um and i it was like the last boulder 01:00:20.030 --> 01:00:22.750 of the final and it was a coordination i love 01:00:22.750 --> 01:00:25.269 coordination and like the music was good the 01:00:25.269 --> 01:00:27.769 crowd were cheering i just had so much fun on 01:00:27.769 --> 01:00:30.070 that boulder even though i didn't do the last 01:00:30.070 --> 01:00:32.590 move but yeah it was really good what's good 01:00:32.590 --> 01:00:35.449 music for you at a comp i think just like upbeat 01:00:35.449 --> 01:00:40.340 music i think yeah okay next one from john ford 01:00:40.340 --> 01:00:44.139 19 what's the intensity between tc and world 01:00:44.139 --> 01:00:47.099 cups i don't really know what tc is like training 01:00:47.099 --> 01:00:53.719 center maybe training camps maybe yeah i mean 01:00:53.719 --> 01:00:55.860 during training camps you're training so you're 01:00:55.860 --> 01:01:00.309 pushing yourself obviously really hard um And 01:01:00.309 --> 01:01:02.250 obviously in a World Cup round, you're pushing 01:01:02.250 --> 01:01:04.309 yourself hard. But before the World Cup round, 01:01:04.469 --> 01:01:07.309 you're resting and recovering and making sure 01:01:07.309 --> 01:01:11.530 you feel good for the World Cup. So I guess there's, 01:01:11.530 --> 01:01:12.869 I don't know, I think they're very different 01:01:12.869 --> 01:01:17.329 things, like training and then competing. I guess, 01:01:17.329 --> 01:01:21.329 are the boulders set for training camps harder 01:01:21.329 --> 01:01:24.809 or easier or about the same as World Cups? Oh, 01:01:24.849 --> 01:01:28.429 like during a mock comp round or something. Yeah. 01:01:28.489 --> 01:01:30.599 Okay, that makes sense. Yeah. I think it depends 01:01:30.599 --> 01:01:36.079 on the training camp, but I think they try to 01:01:36.079 --> 01:01:40.219 make them the right level. I've definitely done 01:01:40.219 --> 01:01:42.000 training camps where they've been easier, the 01:01:42.000 --> 01:01:43.880 boulders, and definitely in the training camps 01:01:43.880 --> 01:01:47.039 where the boulders have been harder than World 01:01:47.039 --> 01:01:51.360 Cup boulders. But I think it depends on the round. 01:01:51.480 --> 01:01:55.500 But often in a training camp, I think it's better 01:01:55.500 --> 01:01:57.400 if they're harder because then you can go back. 01:01:58.090 --> 01:02:00.369 and work on the boulders after and that's always 01:02:00.369 --> 01:02:03.190 quite good at least from a viewer's perspective 01:02:03.190 --> 01:02:05.650 it's hard to think that they would set something 01:02:05.650 --> 01:02:08.429 harder than a world cup but i always forget that 01:02:08.429 --> 01:02:10.530 during a world cup you only have so many minutes 01:02:10.530 --> 01:02:13.650 to actually send it yeah i think if it's not 01:02:13.650 --> 01:02:17.469 a simulation uh training boulders are definitely 01:02:17.469 --> 01:02:21.190 harder than world cup boulders because there's 01:02:21.190 --> 01:02:24.480 only like I don't know, like there's so many 01:02:24.480 --> 01:02:27.139 incredible climbers, but also four minutes isn't 01:02:27.139 --> 01:02:32.960 that long. So if they're limit boulders, they're 01:02:32.960 --> 01:02:36.079 not going to be in a while. Or yeah, they're 01:02:36.079 --> 01:02:38.300 going to be harder in the training camp. Okay. 01:02:38.360 --> 01:02:41.619 And last question is from Process Physio. So 01:02:41.619 --> 01:02:44.949 from Andy, which I think. Oh, he used to coach 01:02:44.949 --> 01:02:48.750 me. Yeah. Oh, yeah, yeah. So he says hi, first 01:02:48.750 --> 01:02:51.269 of all. And then his question was, does your 01:02:51.269 --> 01:02:53.869 brother Luke climb harder than you yet? No, no. 01:02:54.010 --> 01:02:57.230 Maybe he will. No, I hope he doesn't. But that 01:02:57.230 --> 01:02:59.909 is actually, like, one of my goals. Like, I can't 01:02:59.909 --> 01:03:03.650 ever let him climb harder than me. Yeah. I think 01:03:03.650 --> 01:03:08.050 he would be better than me on, like, a big campus 01:03:08.050 --> 01:03:10.969 move. But everything else, I've still got him. 01:03:11.150 --> 01:03:15.800 How old is he? uh he's 17 yeah oh okay and he 01:03:15.800 --> 01:03:18.780 started climbing when he was like 14. so he's 01:03:18.780 --> 01:03:22.000 not been climbing that long oh my gosh wow yeah 01:03:22.000 --> 01:03:25.460 but he got like when guys like go through puberty 01:03:25.460 --> 01:03:28.460 and they get so strong he just got so strong 01:03:28.460 --> 01:03:30.659 so quickly like he can do more one -armors than 01:03:30.659 --> 01:03:34.420 me which does break my heart but um i still climb 01:03:34.420 --> 01:03:38.480 harder for now so that's good nice yeah is he 01:03:38.480 --> 01:03:41.960 trying to i guess like does he have climbing 01:03:41.960 --> 01:03:44.519 goals of like competing or is he just doing it 01:03:44.519 --> 01:03:47.539 for fun uh he does comps but i think right now 01:03:47.539 --> 01:03:50.380 like he's in school and he just he just loves 01:03:50.380 --> 01:03:53.500 climbing he goes climbing all the time um he 01:03:53.500 --> 01:03:57.099 doesn't do it as seriously as me he just yeah 01:03:57.099 --> 01:04:00.159 but he really enjoys it i think a lot of i think 01:04:00.159 --> 01:04:02.420 climbing is quite addictive and a lot of climbers 01:04:02.420 --> 01:04:05.260 even if they don't do it like seriously they 01:04:05.260 --> 01:04:07.960 still do it seriously i don't know i guess i'm 01:04:07.960 --> 01:04:10.480 surprised he actually started so late considering 01:04:10.480 --> 01:04:13.420 you were already climbing a lot at that time 01:04:13.420 --> 01:04:17.300 yeah I think when I first went climbing we did 01:04:17.300 --> 01:04:21.460 take him climbing as well um I remember he like 01:04:21.460 --> 01:04:24.800 took a fall or something and then he just decided 01:04:24.800 --> 01:04:28.099 he didn't like it and I think also because I 01:04:28.099 --> 01:04:31.719 was doing it maybe he didn't want to do it I'm 01:04:31.719 --> 01:04:35.699 not sure yeah but then yeah he got into it a 01:04:35.699 --> 01:04:38.340 few years ago And now he climbs all the time 01:04:38.340 --> 01:04:40.460 as well. But I guess you don't want him to get 01:04:40.460 --> 01:04:43.019 too into it because then he might start beating 01:04:43.019 --> 01:04:44.980 you. Yeah, I can't even be stronger than me. 01:04:46.099 --> 01:04:50.559 That would be terrible. I agree. Okay, well, 01:04:50.659 --> 01:04:52.760 that's all the questions I had then. Thanks for 01:04:52.760 --> 01:04:56.340 joining me today. Any last -minute shout -outs 01:04:56.340 --> 01:04:59.360 or words of wisdom that you have? Tips for coordination 01:04:59.360 --> 01:05:02.699 moves or anything like that? Tips for coordination 01:05:02.699 --> 01:05:07.010 moves. Do as many as you can. Never avoid them 01:05:07.010 --> 01:05:09.050 because it's going to make the problem worse. 01:05:09.429 --> 01:05:11.690 And just be confident. Like if you commit, I 01:05:11.690 --> 01:05:13.429 don't know, what's the worst that can happen? 01:05:14.769 --> 01:05:18.010 True. Well, you could slam into the wall. True, 01:05:18.030 --> 01:05:20.110 true. But I think sometimes as well, when you 01:05:20.110 --> 01:05:22.369 take the slam into the wall, it's like, well, 01:05:22.449 --> 01:05:24.869 that's the worst that can happen. So then you 01:05:24.869 --> 01:05:28.650 can commit. I don't know. Yeah. People are going 01:05:28.650 --> 01:05:32.309 to go like slam into walls. Yeah. And do you 01:05:32.309 --> 01:05:33.710 want to let people know where they can find you? 01:05:34.030 --> 01:05:37.710 uh yeah i'm emma .climbing on instagram i'm surprised 01:05:37.710 --> 01:05:40.130 you managed to get that handle yeah i've had 01:05:40.130 --> 01:05:41.949 it for quite a while to be fair since i was like 01:05:41.949 --> 01:05:46.090 13 actually uh yeah there's another girl who 01:05:46.090 --> 01:05:47.949 i'm friends with called emma and she used to 01:05:47.949 --> 01:05:51.650 have the handle and then she like merged her 01:05:51.650 --> 01:05:53.789 accounts or something and she gave me like advanced 01:05:53.789 --> 01:05:56.510 notice she was like oh wow you can have the climbing 01:05:57.440 --> 01:06:01.400 Wow. Congrats. Thank you. Okay. Awesome. Well, 01:06:01.500 --> 01:06:03.099 thank you again. And it was amazing to talk to 01:06:03.099 --> 01:06:07.440 you. Thank you so much for making it to the end 01:06:07.440 --> 01:06:09.980 of the podcast. Don't forget to like, and subscribe 01:06:09.980 --> 01:06:13.059 if you enjoyed, otherwise you are a super fake 01:06:13.059 --> 01:06:15.880 climber. If you're listening on a podcasting 01:06:15.880 --> 01:06:18.000 platform, I'd appreciate if you rate it five 01:06:18.000 --> 01:06:20.780 stars and you can continue the discussion on 01:06:20.780 --> 01:06:23.519 the free competition, climbing discord linked 01:06:23.519 --> 01:06:25.940 in the description. Thanks again for listening.