WEBVTT

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If you want a sister, Nekaia is the ideal, like,

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sister. She's just that interesting. Nah, let's

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not do that. If you're constantly having someone

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else be the, this is the special one or whatever,

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that kind of made me not want to pursue it. I

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didn't feel like I belonged there. Like, I had

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all of this, like, chatter in my head of being

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like, I'm bringing down the level of the World

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Cups. I'm not supposed to be here. I'm not ready.

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I'm blah, blah, blah. Like recently we went outside

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and it was like the first time in like two years

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and we both did our first 10 within like a few

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tries. But everyone wants to know, are you guys

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related to Annie Sanders? Welcome to another

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episode of the That's Now World Climbing podcast.

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I'm your host, Jinni, and I'm excited to introduce

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my guests for today, Nekaia and Sovarae Sanders.

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You may recognize Nekaia from when she recently

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made her first Boulder World Cup finals in Curitiba,

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and her sister Sovarae podiumed at her last

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USA Youth Boulder Nationals. In this episode,

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we get a lot of insight into their sibling dynamic

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as comp climbers. We'll hear about Nekaia's experience

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in Kurachiba and Sovarae's experience going

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through mental battles at comps. And we'll have

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some fun conversations about food and Harry Potter.

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They were such a joy to talk to, so I hope you

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enjoy this episode with the Sanders sisters.

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I'm excited to announce that my sponsor, Mad

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Rock Climbing, just came out with a brand new

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pair of shoes, the Remora Pro. I was so excited

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to try them on that even though I broke a toe

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on my right foot, I had to at least try on the

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left shoe. So I can definitely say that the Remora

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Pro is better than a rental shoe. But really,

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these are their softest shoe ever, which means

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you no longer need to worry about standing on

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sketchy volumes and comps. They also have a crazy

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3D heel that allows you to get more surface area

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when heel hooking and inserts that lock your

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heel into the shoe no matter how hard you're

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pulling. Feel free to message me if you have

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any questions about the shoes or sizing and you

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can use the discount code NOTREALCLIMBER for

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10 % off your entire Mad Rock order. Back to

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the show. Why'd you decide to do the haircut?

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Oh, okay. I love having my hair short. I've had

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it a few times short. Oh, really? Yeah, like

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I think the first time I cut all my hair off,

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I was like 14, maybe 13. I just really like the

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feeling of it. And I've been really wanting to

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for like a while. And I like, yeah, I finally

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was like, okay, I'm just going to do it. Ever

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since she was little, she was like obsessed with

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having her hair short. Like that was always a

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thing. I like how it looks before. I like short

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hair. Have you ever considered like, full bald

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yeah oh my god really well so i really want to

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buzz my head at some point in my life i think

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it might look like a bowling ball but i like

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it i want to uh and i actually like the picture

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i showed the guy was like a bit longer than this

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and he went a lot shorter like it made me like

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i'm like okay i could look decent with like short

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short so maybe maybe next time you see me That

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would be crazy. I would love to see it. But yeah,

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how are you guys doing? Do you guys have like

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a rest day today? We just got back like 20 minutes

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ago from our first session. Then when this is

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done, we'll go back. What is your usual gym out

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there? We climb a little bit at Movement and

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then the Rock City Training Center. And LBR too,

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or we'll go to San Diego. We climb everywhere.

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Did you guys go to... the new or it's not like

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new grotto but the new uh since it's had all

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the changes not yet have you no i sorry i told

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you guys i was gonna go but then i broke my toe

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and i thought it'd be better by now but it's

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still not so then i was doing like lateral jumps

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and i wasn't wearing shoes and then i like jumped

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to the right side but my pinky toe like got caught

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under the rest of my foot So then like all my

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weight landed on it and then it was indeed broken.

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Oh, that's so bad. That's gross. I'm sorry. Yeah,

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it's been like four weeks and I thought it would

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be better by now. It's not like fully better.

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So I'm going to wait a bit until I can like put

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on real shoes because I don't know. They said

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a lot of like good slab at Grotto and I can't

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really do slab right now. That sucks. I broke

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my big toe. It was not fun. Did you hear that

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story? How did you do that? I was in a terrible

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mood one day and I was doing my like, I think

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it was like weighted hangs or weighted pull -ups.

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It must have been weighted hangs at home. And

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I couldn't find our weight belt. And so I was

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like, a chalk belt's fine. And so I put 40 pounds

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on a chalk belt. Whoa. And obviously it came

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undone. Just like the plastic clip. and it fell

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on my toe and it broke the chip off like of like

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the like very tip of my big toe but i refused

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to admit it was broken and so i climbed on it

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for like a week or two and i could feel it like

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stabbing me but i was like it's fine oh that's

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disgusting as med i went to the doctor and it

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was broken and he was like he was so mad at me

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he was like now it can't like You might as well

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just keep climbing because it's not going to

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heal right anyways. Oh. Eventually it will build

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up like scar tissue. And so I was able to climb

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through the whole time. It was so gross. I could

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like literally feel like the shard like stabbing

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me. But I could climb through the whole thing.

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And I just dealt with it. Wow. How long ago was

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this? This was, it was pretty like a while ago

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now. Right before COVID. Yeah. Like early, early

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2020. And it actually, like, healed, I guess?

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Uh, yeah. It didn't, like, it took a while to

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heal and then it was fine. That's good, I guess.

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Sometimes it works doing that with injuries,

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but I don't know how I got away with, like, going

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all the way through. He was so mad the doctor

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was like... I haven't been, like, putting pressure

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on it because I don't like pain. A little bit

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of, like, a weird relationship with pain, I feel

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like. He has a super high pain tolerance. And

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then just committed to it also. Yeah. I have

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a little bit of a sticky brain, so when I want

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to do something, it will go. Sometimes I just

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don't process it right, where it's just like,

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it's not that painful to me. Yeah. Okay, so before

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we get into any questions that are too difficult,

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the first question is going to be really easy,

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but everyone wants to know, are you guys related

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to Annie Sanders? We are not. I got like so many

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questions for that. Do you get asked that a lot?

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Yeah. I was looking at, I don't remember, I saw

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comments somewhere. They're like, yeah, just

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everywhere. It was like, hello, the lady. Okay,

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we're setting the record straight here. So there's

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actually, Annie has a sister. And so there's

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four Sanders girls. Like climbing? Yeah, she

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climbs. Okay, good to know. Have you guys like

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climbed together before? With Annie? Yeah, just

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like with team. team events and stuff at training

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camps well i'll maybe have an episode with her

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in a month or so so we'll see how that goes but

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yeah so back to you guys um how did you guys

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get into climbing we my aunt found like a climbing

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gym on groupon and it's just like we should all

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go because i have two older brothers that are

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very active and so we just went as a family and

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then we went i think my brothers were really

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into it they're teenagers So we went every day

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for a month straight. And that was kind of how

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it started. Our oldest brother's got like, I

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think we're all very like kind of obsessive brains.

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But he's like especially obsessive. So whenever

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he started anything as a kid, it was like 100

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% in. And so it was like immediately we went

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to the gym and we're like all obsessed, driving

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like an hour each direction, like fully in. Oh,

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wow. Yeah. with a very kind mom who was like

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able to willing to facilitate that so it was

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like full obsession right away and then we got

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into like uh got onto the team within like a

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few months like yeah maybe a month or two like

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a youth team yeah yeah and did your um brothers

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also compete how did they do Very good. I think

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my oldest brother didn't do any of the open comps.

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Like he just went through the youth circuit.

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He didn't like the competition aspect of it.

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It wasn't as much, yeah, much more always into

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outdoors. And then next oldest but younger brother,

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he competed into the open national level comps

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and stuff. He's like, they're both stupidly good

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off the couch climbers. Oh, off the cuff. Yeah,

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got that. When people say they don't like the

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comp aspect of it, what do you think that means?

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What part of it? Is it the competitiveness, the

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pressure? Does that drive you guys? He didn't

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like the pressure very much in reference to Elvis'

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brother. I think that he didn't thrive under

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the pressure of it. It just wasn't fun to him.

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I think he started a lot older, too. I think

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he was... He was like 16 when he started. And

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I think it's really hard to transition into competitions

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when you're that old. And also just like my brother

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naturally is like go off and do his own thing.

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And like outdoor climbing is definitely like

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perfect match for him. I'm just like working

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projects and going with the flow a bit more.

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Okay. Makes sense. You guys both keep separately

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saying my brother and it's like really confusing

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me. because that person was like oh i guess it's

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just her brother and then oh wait but it's the

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same person people actually think that we're

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not related a lot like the amount of people that

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are like have known us for years and it'll be

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like oh my god you're sisters even though we

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have the same last name both have weird names

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and travel together all the time people will

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be shocked but no we actually same parents same

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family I guess you guys both look pretty different.

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And with the hair now, too, it's really hard

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to tell. We have actually similar features. But

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it's everything else that makes it different.

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And you also mentioned that you guys were homeschooled.

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I guess it was in order to focus more on climbing.

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What was that like? No, actually, so we homeschooled

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our whole lives. My brothers were also homeschooled,

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all four of us. And my oldest brother is actually

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nine years older than her. And so there's like

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quite a big gap. And so he was homeschooled like

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kind of before it was like really starting to

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become a thing. But we were homeschooled because

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we lived in two different spots. And so we couldn't

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go to normal school. And so we were splitting

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time between spots. I see. So that was like the

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whole Portland, SoCal split. Yeah, yeah. I don't

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actually know that many homeschooled people.

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Do you get that whole like weird social thing?

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We, well, okay. So there are weird homeschoolers

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for sure. We grew up with like going to like,

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sometimes we, like when we were younger, kind

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of actually really before climbing, we would

00:12:05.899 --> 00:12:09.419
go to like homeschool park day, this homeschool

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class, that homeschool class. And there are some

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weird, weird homeschool people. But also I feel

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like it, the people that i've met that i'm like

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wow you're a really unique confident person and

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you really just like seem not scared of the world

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uh almost always i've like later found out like

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oh you're homeschooled and so i think it could

00:12:34.940 --> 00:12:37.779
go i either way and i think it's also really

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individual of whether it works for you or not

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uh i think also being in a sport while you're

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is a huge difference because otherwise you're

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just like incredibly isolated in your people

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but yeah or oftentimes i should say not over

00:12:54.710 --> 00:12:57.250
generalize but if you have a sport you kind of

00:12:57.250 --> 00:12:59.710
have a little bit of that like social experience

00:12:59.710 --> 00:13:01.710
where you're meeting a bunch of different types

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of people and stuff yeah that makes sense so

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you guys didn't feel like you had like a weird

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transition into society yeah i think i think

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yeah i think more so We were like, my mom always

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told us to be like little adults in the gym.

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I think that kind of caught on. We were like

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almost, like especially her because of my brother

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being like nine years older and not being around

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like in a class with a bunch of people her age.

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She, I think, was like more mature. Like she's

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like a little five -year -old teenager. And I

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think that part maybe was like a little bit of

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transition of just not being in the same age

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bubble as other people. But I think through like

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the team, like being on a youth team. And climbing,

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we were around a lot of people, a lot of adults

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especially. And what's your age difference? Two

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and a half years. Okay, so sorry. Nakia said

00:13:55.139 --> 00:13:57.320
that you weren't into training before and that

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you were just like being dragged around to the

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gyms. What changed for you when deciding to actually

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pursue climbing more heavily? Very complicated,

00:14:05.840 --> 00:14:10.139
but I would say when I was little, I started

00:14:10.139 --> 00:14:12.480
climbing when I was five. So I was mostly like...

00:14:12.649 --> 00:14:15.110
playing with like legos like under the boulders

00:14:15.110 --> 00:14:17.529
and stuff like it wasn't climbing super she would

00:14:17.529 --> 00:14:19.429
just throw down the hubbies for hours i would

00:14:19.429 --> 00:14:22.490
end the cubbies and so on but so i would like

00:14:22.490 --> 00:14:25.350
kind of play and stuff and then as i got more

00:14:25.350 --> 00:14:28.389
into like my teenage years and stuff i guess

00:14:28.389 --> 00:14:30.690
also goes into a little bit of competitiveness

00:14:30.690 --> 00:14:35.769
between yukai or like that relationship but i

00:14:35.769 --> 00:14:39.409
started like seeing her get so many like accolades

00:14:39.409 --> 00:14:41.889
for climbing and people being like oh, you're

00:14:41.889 --> 00:14:44.049
amazing about this. And like a lot of attention

00:14:44.049 --> 00:14:47.330
was put on her climbing. Now, I'm not saying

00:14:47.330 --> 00:14:49.450
this is actually like what happened, but this

00:14:49.450 --> 00:14:52.110
is what I perceived happening. And so it kind

00:14:52.110 --> 00:14:55.610
of made me feel a little bit less like I wanted

00:14:55.610 --> 00:14:59.970
to do it because I wasn't as good, obviously,

00:14:59.970 --> 00:15:03.070
because I wasn't working at it. I didn't like

00:15:03.070 --> 00:15:06.509
it that much at all. So I think that kind of

00:15:06.509 --> 00:15:09.860
helped push me out a little bit. where it was

00:15:09.860 --> 00:15:13.080
not something that I wanted to do because I didn't

00:15:13.080 --> 00:15:15.980
love the sport and if you're constantly having

00:15:15.980 --> 00:15:19.000
someone else be the the this is the special one

00:15:19.000 --> 00:15:22.000
or whatever so to say that's kind of a dramatic

00:15:22.000 --> 00:15:25.940
term but like that kind of made me not want to

00:15:25.940 --> 00:15:29.840
pursue it and then eventually we went she went

00:15:29.840 --> 00:15:33.799
made it to youth worlds in Moscow or it was Moscow

00:15:33.799 --> 00:15:37.419
yeah it was in Moscow no it was France yeah anyways

00:15:37.419 --> 00:15:41.899
Russia we went there and I saw like competitors

00:15:41.899 --> 00:15:44.840
that were my own age and seeing them like do

00:15:44.840 --> 00:15:47.700
well and seeing the international girls really

00:15:47.700 --> 00:15:51.059
like have different climbing styles and stuff

00:15:51.059 --> 00:15:55.759
kind of showed me that I guess we could both

00:15:55.759 --> 00:15:59.279
be really good at it in both and that it would

00:15:59.279 --> 00:16:02.059
be something special if we did it together like

00:16:02.059 --> 00:16:04.559
it wasn't that I needed to find my own path in

00:16:04.559 --> 00:16:07.250
life It also kind of showed me that I could also

00:16:07.250 --> 00:16:10.490
enjoy the sport, not hate it. So that was a big

00:16:10.490 --> 00:16:14.029
difference. And then I got her to make me a training

00:16:14.029 --> 00:16:17.649
plan on the way home, like on the flight, and

00:16:17.649 --> 00:16:20.309
then went straight into training. And this never

00:16:20.309 --> 00:16:22.649
stopped, I guess. From an outside perspective,

00:16:22.950 --> 00:16:27.090
it was kind of like, it was really interesting

00:16:27.090 --> 00:16:30.490
for me because she's really young at the time.

00:16:30.490 --> 00:16:32.970
You were probably like 13, right? I think I was

00:16:32.970 --> 00:16:36.659
14. Yeah, just turned 14. and watching her like

00:16:36.659 --> 00:16:39.139
go from like as like a little kid just like playing

00:16:39.139 --> 00:16:43.460
in the gym to like pre -teen where she was like

00:16:43.460 --> 00:16:46.720
kind of being forced a little bit to go to the

00:16:46.720 --> 00:16:48.879
gym just because like that's what our family

00:16:48.879 --> 00:16:50.899
was doing and like we do everything kind of like

00:16:50.899 --> 00:16:55.639
as a unit and like a lot it was like hard for

00:16:55.639 --> 00:16:57.879
me because I was like I need to be in the gym

00:16:57.879 --> 00:17:01.019
training for like hours on end and like I just

00:17:01.019 --> 00:17:07.079
remember her being like let's go home we were

00:17:07.079 --> 00:17:08.759
in the gym for like six hours a day of course

00:17:08.759 --> 00:17:11.799
and then going to this comp and just being like

00:17:11.799 --> 00:17:15.359
seeing like i think i really wanted her to get

00:17:15.359 --> 00:17:17.059
into training like i thought that would be the

00:17:17.059 --> 00:17:19.519
coolest thing ever and then seeing her just like

00:17:19.519 --> 00:17:22.220
on her own have this little like spark of being

00:17:22.220 --> 00:17:27.099
like oh this is cool and immediately turn around

00:17:27.099 --> 00:17:30.890
into like I think me and my mom were like oh

00:17:30.890 --> 00:17:33.069
this is really exciting maybe she's gonna get

00:17:33.069 --> 00:17:36.089
into it and it probably won't last very long

00:17:36.089 --> 00:17:38.069
but at least like it'll be fun for like a few

00:17:38.069 --> 00:17:42.410
weeks and it was like just like light switch

00:17:42.410 --> 00:17:46.329
of being like I hate training to like I love

00:17:46.329 --> 00:17:47.970
this I want to be doing this I'm gonna try as

00:17:47.970 --> 00:17:51.210
hard as I can and it just like never stopped

00:17:51.210 --> 00:17:53.769
of like super super dedicated like everything

00:17:53.769 --> 00:17:57.150
in um And I don't think I've ever seen that sort

00:17:57.150 --> 00:17:59.109
of switch before in a person. And it was really

00:17:59.109 --> 00:18:02.890
cool to be able to like witness that like, yeah,

00:18:02.990 --> 00:18:05.250
just how like a little like spark moment can

00:18:05.250 --> 00:18:08.289
just change everything. If you also want to know

00:18:08.289 --> 00:18:11.410
what it feels like from going to, from like a

00:18:11.410 --> 00:18:13.990
very recreational climber who didn't really like

00:18:13.990 --> 00:18:17.470
it into very solid training, the first week of

00:18:17.470 --> 00:18:21.869
your life is the worst. It hurt so bad. My body

00:18:21.869 --> 00:18:24.039
was like. It was the first time I ever got out

00:18:24.039 --> 00:18:26.380
of bed at the ripe age of 14 and being like,

00:18:26.460 --> 00:18:29.980
I am in actual agony. I feel like an old woman.

00:18:30.099 --> 00:18:34.359
It was horrible. It gets better. After the first

00:18:34.359 --> 00:18:38.279
week, it's very easy. So you were 14 when that

00:18:38.279 --> 00:18:41.579
started? I think I just turned 14, yeah. Do you

00:18:41.579 --> 00:18:43.759
ever look back on that time and regret all the

00:18:43.759 --> 00:18:48.680
time that you didn't spend prior to 14? I think

00:18:48.680 --> 00:18:53.359
in some ways I do because... I would have been

00:18:53.359 --> 00:18:55.500
probably a little bit better than I am now. So

00:18:55.500 --> 00:18:59.240
in that way, I do. I was also deeply unhappy

00:18:59.240 --> 00:19:03.859
around that time. Like, I went crazy, but just

00:19:03.859 --> 00:19:06.900
I was not happy with myself as you can be when

00:19:06.900 --> 00:19:09.880
you're 14. And so I think that would have probably

00:19:09.880 --> 00:19:15.559
helped that sooner. But it was some good character

00:19:15.559 --> 00:19:18.720
building experience. And I think I needed to

00:19:18.720 --> 00:19:22.579
figure out that I liked being. someone who worked

00:19:22.579 --> 00:19:25.019
hard and not just kind of doing the teenage thing

00:19:25.019 --> 00:19:28.119
so I think that was such an important lesson

00:19:28.119 --> 00:19:31.319
that I don't really regret it I mean I guess

00:19:31.319 --> 00:19:35.000
I kind of relate to your point of view because

00:19:35.000 --> 00:19:37.980
well my sister is like eight years older but

00:19:37.980 --> 00:19:41.359
I think yeah especially since she was so much

00:19:41.359 --> 00:19:43.900
older I was always kind of okay with just being

00:19:43.900 --> 00:19:47.599
like the one who's worse at things yeah you get

00:19:47.599 --> 00:19:51.140
like kind of trapped in that yeah but I don't

00:19:51.140 --> 00:19:53.519
think I ever really came out of that, so. I think

00:19:53.519 --> 00:19:55.940
you're doing pretty good. You're doing some successful

00:19:55.940 --> 00:19:58.119
things. Yeah, well, we're doing different things.

00:19:58.240 --> 00:20:01.440
She never climbed. I climb. She does, like, skating

00:20:01.440 --> 00:20:05.059
instead, so it's all fine. But, yeah, I can relate

00:20:05.059 --> 00:20:08.819
to you there. I think the portion of, like, learning

00:20:08.819 --> 00:20:12.079
to try hard is really, well, watching with, like,

00:20:12.119 --> 00:20:14.079
my, what, like, 16 -year -old eyes at the time,

00:20:14.140 --> 00:20:18.509
I saw that portion of her was like. I think every

00:20:18.509 --> 00:20:20.470
like young teenager goes through a phase of being

00:20:20.470 --> 00:20:24.250
like, what am I doing? Like, who do I want to

00:20:24.250 --> 00:20:27.369
be? And maybe just like a little bit of like

00:20:27.369 --> 00:20:30.210
a lost period. I think it was really interesting

00:20:30.210 --> 00:20:33.950
to see that like transition of being like, it

00:20:33.950 --> 00:20:37.690
was, it seemed a lot, but once you started training

00:20:37.690 --> 00:20:40.109
to be like. a whole personality that's like I

00:20:40.109 --> 00:20:41.890
always say like light switch because it's like

00:20:41.890 --> 00:20:44.130
it was like a whole new person of being like

00:20:44.130 --> 00:20:46.769
obviously like a child and like coasting and

00:20:46.769 --> 00:20:49.450
kind of just like ah like doing life to being

00:20:49.450 --> 00:20:52.470
like whoa you are like fully committed to working

00:20:52.470 --> 00:20:56.269
hard in climbing but also just like in everything

00:20:56.269 --> 00:20:59.529
it was like the craziest transition I've ever

00:20:59.529 --> 00:21:03.910
seen of direction really like was um really interesting

00:21:03.910 --> 00:21:06.900
to watch it's nice that you were able to like

00:21:06.900 --> 00:21:09.700
find, I guess, this to bring you out of that

00:21:09.700 --> 00:21:13.559
like funk that you were in. But with both of

00:21:13.559 --> 00:21:16.859
you competing, I guess I'm wondering how often

00:21:16.859 --> 00:21:19.380
nowadays that you're both competing and like

00:21:19.380 --> 00:21:21.579
both trying to like do your best and climb super

00:21:21.579 --> 00:21:24.839
hard. How often do you guys feel jealous or competitive

00:21:24.839 --> 00:21:27.420
against each other during like competitions or

00:21:27.420 --> 00:21:30.180
training? Well, we've gone through phases and

00:21:30.180 --> 00:21:31.779
I think it's something we've had to figure out.

00:21:32.079 --> 00:21:35.410
Like we had, Like, I think especially, well,

00:21:35.569 --> 00:21:38.349
as kind of, this kind of leads into it. Once

00:21:38.349 --> 00:21:40.970
she started training and working really hard,

00:21:41.049 --> 00:21:44.430
she got better, like, so she's, like, naturally

00:21:44.430 --> 00:21:47.230
incredibly athletic. Like, really, like, when

00:21:47.230 --> 00:21:49.029
she works out, she gets really good really fast.

00:21:49.329 --> 00:21:52.890
And I think seeing that, I was like, whoa, this

00:21:52.890 --> 00:21:56.769
is scary because I've always been, like, like,

00:21:56.769 --> 00:22:00.660
uh. better like obviously I'm like older and

00:22:00.660 --> 00:22:02.759
so I was used to being like better than her and

00:22:02.759 --> 00:22:05.319
also being like the one that's working hard and

00:22:05.319 --> 00:22:07.400
so there was like this weird transition period

00:22:07.400 --> 00:22:10.000
of being like oh she's working hard but that's

00:22:10.000 --> 00:22:12.859
like my thing is that I work hard and like I

00:22:12.859 --> 00:22:16.259
was like I think I've always had like a like

00:22:16.259 --> 00:22:19.339
a lot of identity about being like a hard worker

00:22:19.339 --> 00:22:22.539
and especially when I was younger like I was

00:22:22.539 --> 00:22:26.150
really dead set of being like I'm the one I need

00:22:26.150 --> 00:22:28.410
to be the one that's working harder than everyone

00:22:28.410 --> 00:22:30.450
around me. And if someone else is working harder,

00:22:30.549 --> 00:22:34.430
I'm going to work harder than them. And so when

00:22:34.430 --> 00:22:37.529
she started matching me in pace of what we were

00:22:37.529 --> 00:22:40.470
doing, it was really disconcerting for me to

00:22:40.470 --> 00:22:43.069
be like, whoa, she's getting better and she's

00:22:43.069 --> 00:22:45.210
working equally hard to me. How am I going to

00:22:45.210 --> 00:22:50.089
deal with this? And I think it was really hard

00:22:50.089 --> 00:22:52.410
for a while and we butted heads a little bit.

00:22:52.529 --> 00:22:56.759
But I think... It transitioned quickly because

00:22:56.759 --> 00:23:00.839
of, like, our family is, like, very explicit.

00:23:01.019 --> 00:23:02.839
Like, if there's a problem, we're going to talk

00:23:02.839 --> 00:23:05.279
about it. And we talk through everything. Like,

00:23:05.319 --> 00:23:07.799
there's not a lot of, like, privacy in my family.

00:23:07.819 --> 00:23:10.740
Like, it's, like, we're going to talk about whatever's

00:23:10.740 --> 00:23:13.859
happening. And I think it was just, like, a lot

00:23:13.859 --> 00:23:17.619
of conversations of just being, like, I think

00:23:17.619 --> 00:23:22.640
also, and I think maybe sometimes people, like,

00:23:22.640 --> 00:23:25.769
miss this is, like, our prior like at least mine

00:23:25.769 --> 00:23:28.730
she could talk for speak herself but my priority

00:23:28.730 --> 00:23:31.009
will always be like our relationship over any

00:23:31.009 --> 00:23:33.750
climbing like that's just like my life values

00:23:33.750 --> 00:23:38.910
of being like I I I care more about our relationship

00:23:38.910 --> 00:23:41.589
than whatever uh is going to happen in climbing

00:23:41.589 --> 00:23:43.890
and so like it might be hard and I might feel

00:23:43.890 --> 00:23:45.589
competitive but we're going to like work it out

00:23:45.589 --> 00:23:48.650
to in the end to like be able to train together

00:23:48.650 --> 00:23:52.150
I don't know I want to hear yours I honestly

00:23:52.150 --> 00:23:55.589
during that period was pretty oblivious to the

00:23:55.589 --> 00:23:59.410
fact that there could be difficulty with that.

00:23:59.509 --> 00:24:04.089
Like, I was quite, quite oblivious to that. However,

00:24:04.569 --> 00:24:08.769
Nikaya is, like, if you want a sister, Nikaya

00:24:08.769 --> 00:24:13.230
is the ideal, like, sister. She's just... In

00:24:13.230 --> 00:24:18.230
her nature, she just, like, will not do anything

00:24:18.230 --> 00:24:23.059
if it is harmful to me. if it makes me feel bad

00:24:23.059 --> 00:24:26.319
like nikai when we were like 10 we would fight

00:24:26.319 --> 00:24:29.380
and i would go out in the corner and she would

00:24:29.380 --> 00:24:31.599
come over and be like we have to work this out

00:24:31.599 --> 00:24:34.200
we're sisters like we can't fight like this and

00:24:34.200 --> 00:24:35.859
then do you want to pretend to be twins and that

00:24:35.859 --> 00:24:38.480
was it like it was just that's just how nikai

00:24:38.480 --> 00:24:44.740
was so it wasn't ever an option i would say i

00:24:44.740 --> 00:24:49.329
think later in like our climbing yes journey,

00:24:49.390 --> 00:24:51.869
you could say. I started struggling, like, when

00:24:51.869 --> 00:24:54.269
I started keeping up with her is when I started

00:24:54.269 --> 00:24:58.490
struggling with it more on my end of being competitive

00:24:58.490 --> 00:25:01.329
and being, like, annoyed that she was beating

00:25:01.329 --> 00:25:04.750
me. Then I think I had a tiny bit of a rough

00:25:04.750 --> 00:25:08.890
patch of being, like, kind of, I don't even want

00:25:08.890 --> 00:25:11.730
to say, like, it would, it wouldn't, it would,

00:25:11.750 --> 00:25:13.509
as soon as we walked out of the gym, it was gone.

00:25:14.410 --> 00:25:16.549
That being in the gym and feeling that pressure

00:25:16.549 --> 00:25:21.019
to, like, constantly like succeed or fail like

00:25:21.019 --> 00:25:24.579
every day in the gym that kind of got with me

00:25:24.579 --> 00:25:28.380
and then we went into team trials and nikai had

00:25:28.380 --> 00:25:32.359
a horrible back injury prior to that she had

00:25:32.359 --> 00:25:35.180
just started climbing and she did the best she'd

00:25:35.180 --> 00:25:38.539
ever done in a call at team trials i should say

00:25:38.539 --> 00:25:41.200
so she'd like development team and stuff and

00:25:41.200 --> 00:25:44.319
it was really and it still is it's very hard

00:25:44.859 --> 00:25:47.539
sit and watch in like a comp that you competed

00:25:47.539 --> 00:25:50.140
in and then watching the finals and being like

00:25:50.140 --> 00:25:51.740
well I could have been there but I'm watching

00:25:51.740 --> 00:25:55.579
her but I also realized at that comp I was like

00:25:55.579 --> 00:25:59.500
this is so dumb that I'm feeling competitive

00:25:59.500 --> 00:26:03.319
against her because if I'm not having it even

00:26:03.319 --> 00:26:06.539
if I do have it like the the reward not it but

00:26:06.539 --> 00:26:09.539
the reward of like placing all the competition

00:26:09.539 --> 00:26:14.460
I would so much rather Nikaya have that Because

00:26:14.460 --> 00:26:17.440
I know how hard she works. I know she's very

00:26:17.440 --> 00:26:20.200
talented. And obviously I love her. So I'm like,

00:26:20.240 --> 00:26:24.339
I so want her to succeed or do better even than

00:26:24.339 --> 00:26:27.619
me. And I've took that all the way because it.

00:26:28.859 --> 00:26:31.680
I think, I think like generally, like I've, I've

00:26:31.680 --> 00:26:33.519
talked to people about just like their training

00:26:33.519 --> 00:26:36.299
partners or like other siblings, like the competitive

00:26:36.299 --> 00:26:39.200
aspect. And I feel like there's like, it's always

00:26:39.200 --> 00:26:41.819
going to be there because of if you're ever like.

00:26:42.460 --> 00:26:45.160
Like we train like every session together. And

00:26:45.160 --> 00:26:47.599
so like if you're ever compared to someone that

00:26:47.599 --> 00:26:49.859
consistently, even if it's like yourself comparing

00:26:49.859 --> 00:26:53.359
yourself, you're going to feel competitive. I

00:26:53.359 --> 00:26:56.339
think that's an incredibly positive thing because

00:26:56.339 --> 00:26:59.680
you're like that friction is like like I know

00:26:59.680 --> 00:27:02.480
I try harder when I'm like when she's beating

00:27:02.480 --> 00:27:06.619
me. And it's just getting away from the the like

00:27:06.619 --> 00:27:09.480
personal value or like negative competitiveness.

00:27:10.079 --> 00:27:12.200
That comes with it. And I feel like Soraya has

00:27:12.200 --> 00:27:14.720
proven to me that she's really strong and she

00:27:14.720 --> 00:27:17.960
works really hard and she deserves it. And so

00:27:17.960 --> 00:27:20.619
like when you can get past that and be like,

00:27:20.680 --> 00:27:24.240
oh no, she can beat me and that's fine. I think

00:27:24.240 --> 00:27:27.339
it becomes way better because like instead of

00:27:27.339 --> 00:27:30.400
being like one -on -one rivalry, it's like if

00:27:30.400 --> 00:27:32.460
she beats me, like great. Like obviously I want

00:27:32.460 --> 00:27:36.980
to win every competition. But if I want anyone

00:27:36.980 --> 00:27:40.000
to win, I want her to win. I think that makes

00:27:40.000 --> 00:27:44.700
everything way easier. I think also, like, other

00:27:44.700 --> 00:27:48.700
people, when they talk to you, they, like, want

00:27:48.700 --> 00:27:51.180
there to be this, like, kind of nasty rivalry,

00:27:51.259 --> 00:27:54.559
like, in the relationship. Like, the things that

00:27:54.559 --> 00:27:57.279
people will say to you, like, after Nakia's done

00:27:57.279 --> 00:27:59.140
really good in a comp and I've done really terribly.

00:27:59.759 --> 00:28:01.579
They're like, oh, are you just so mad that she

00:28:01.579 --> 00:28:04.440
beat you? Whoa. You'll say like, oh, I could

00:28:04.440 --> 00:28:07.819
go on and on and on about like the things that

00:28:07.819 --> 00:28:09.460
people just walk over. You're like, I don't even

00:28:09.460 --> 00:28:11.720
know who you are. And you just were like, yeah,

00:28:11.779 --> 00:28:13.500
you must be devastated that your sister beat

00:28:13.500 --> 00:28:17.119
you. She's like, okay. So I think that is like

00:28:17.119 --> 00:28:21.859
kind of sparks that negative competition. But

00:28:21.859 --> 00:28:23.960
as soon as you realize that, oh, wait, this doesn't

00:28:23.960 --> 00:28:26.940
even have to be. something we think about like

00:28:26.940 --> 00:28:28.640
this isn't we don't need this in our relationship

00:28:28.640 --> 00:28:32.519
this isn't like a valid feeling then it's kind

00:28:32.519 --> 00:28:35.160
of easy to just toss that away and so I guess

00:28:35.160 --> 00:28:38.019
you clearly don't have that feeling of like I'm

00:28:38.019 --> 00:28:42.339
just the worst one anymore no no also it helps

00:28:42.339 --> 00:28:44.680
in training is that she beats me all the time

00:28:44.680 --> 00:28:48.940
oh no I think that went away as soon as I found

00:28:48.940 --> 00:28:52.359
an identity outside of being the youngest that

00:28:52.359 --> 00:28:54.839
is like yapping at everyone's tails trying to

00:28:54.839 --> 00:28:59.920
keep up. I think that is a foreplay. When you

00:28:59.920 --> 00:29:02.039
find an identity outside of that, of being like,

00:29:02.160 --> 00:29:05.579
oh, I'm not good. I'm a hard worker. And that's

00:29:05.579 --> 00:29:07.900
the identity, then that kind of goes away. Also,

00:29:07.960 --> 00:29:10.480
when you're not 14, that tends to help. I think

00:29:10.480 --> 00:29:15.799
also, like, being two people, like, every competition

00:29:15.799 --> 00:29:17.619
you go to, there's going to be, like, 50 people.

00:29:18.299 --> 00:29:21.279
And, like, we're just two people there. And,

00:29:21.279 --> 00:29:24.480
like... I think that is like a really important

00:29:24.480 --> 00:29:26.500
to remember instead of being like, like even

00:29:26.500 --> 00:29:29.119
just with competitiveness with people, like other

00:29:29.119 --> 00:29:31.759
people, like not with us. Like I find it like

00:29:31.759 --> 00:29:33.960
sometimes people will get like hyper fixated

00:29:33.960 --> 00:29:36.000
on like, oh, I need to beat that one person or

00:29:36.000 --> 00:29:37.819
that. I can't believe that person beat me. And

00:29:37.819 --> 00:29:40.279
it's like, well, we're just 50 people in a competition.

00:29:40.779 --> 00:29:43.299
However, it ranks, it ranks. I think that's like

00:29:43.299 --> 00:29:46.720
at least helpful to me to be like, not like,

00:29:46.720 --> 00:29:52.920
I think it gets so tied up in like worth. Like,

00:29:52.920 --> 00:29:55.680
yeah. Who's the better one or who's this? People

00:29:55.680 --> 00:29:57.440
ask that all the time, which is hilarious to

00:29:57.440 --> 00:30:00.500
me. Oh, yeah. So weird. Of, like, who's the better?

00:30:00.740 --> 00:30:03.220
Yeah, yeah, yeah. Like, especially, like, people,

00:30:03.319 --> 00:30:05.799
like, you, like, meet new people and be like,

00:30:05.859 --> 00:30:07.960
oh, we climb. And they'll be like, oh, like,

00:30:07.980 --> 00:30:12.960
who's better? We've been friends for, like, we've

00:30:12.960 --> 00:30:15.460
known for years that are great people. And they'll,

00:30:15.460 --> 00:30:18.180
like, try to compliment me and be like, well,

00:30:18.200 --> 00:30:20.119
you're so much better than Nekaya. I'm like.

00:30:20.559 --> 00:30:25.000
I don't want that. No, it's just weird. What

00:30:25.000 --> 00:30:29.380
is your answer when they ask? Well, she's good

00:30:29.380 --> 00:30:33.880
at this, I'm good at that. Probably not smooth.

00:30:34.880 --> 00:30:37.059
Okay, we'll get into like strengths and weaknesses

00:30:37.059 --> 00:30:40.279
in a bit. Yeah, so getting into, I guess, like

00:30:40.279 --> 00:30:42.839
elite competition, World Cup circuit, stuff like

00:30:42.839 --> 00:30:45.640
that. I guess, first of all, you mentioned that

00:30:46.759 --> 00:30:49.279
at that national team trials where you got into

00:30:49.279 --> 00:30:53.299
the national development team can you just kind

00:30:53.299 --> 00:30:55.940
of explain how getting onto the U .S. team works

00:30:55.940 --> 00:30:59.160
and how selection works and like what the national

00:30:59.160 --> 00:31:01.640
development team is versus like the actual national

00:31:01.640 --> 00:31:07.180
team yeah it's all kind of confusing so the selection

00:31:07.180 --> 00:31:10.220
process it's always kind of changes a bit but

00:31:10.220 --> 00:31:12.940
for the past few years it's been you could be

00:31:12.940 --> 00:31:17.259
pre -selected by being on in the top 10 of the

00:31:17.259 --> 00:31:22.420
world ranking from the World Cups. And so the

00:31:22.420 --> 00:31:24.640
past few years, that's been Brooke, Natalia,

00:31:24.799 --> 00:31:29.359
and Annie. And then that has left around three

00:31:29.359 --> 00:31:33.980
spots for... We count five people into team.

00:31:34.359 --> 00:31:37.119
Yeah, five people into team. And so that's three

00:31:37.119 --> 00:31:40.059
spots of the team go to them normally. And so

00:31:40.059 --> 00:31:44.410
there's two spots to qualify for US team. And

00:31:44.410 --> 00:31:48.990
those are selected through, I think it's 40 %

00:31:48.990 --> 00:31:55.029
nationals or national championships and 60 %

00:31:55.029 --> 00:31:59.150
team trials. And those points get combined into

00:31:59.150 --> 00:32:03.490
a ranking of everyone. And so to make national

00:32:03.490 --> 00:32:05.730
team your top five and to make development team

00:32:05.730 --> 00:32:10.529
your top like, I think it's 14 including. Yeah,

00:32:10.549 --> 00:32:15.960
14 or something like this. And yeah, so that's

00:32:15.960 --> 00:32:19.200
like the qualifying series. And it's, I think

00:32:19.200 --> 00:32:22.859
the process of like getting into that was really

00:32:22.859 --> 00:32:25.880
hard for me. Like it took me a lot of years to

00:32:25.880 --> 00:32:29.039
kind of break through. Hopefully I've broken

00:32:29.039 --> 00:32:33.140
through now. I can say that'd be awesome. You

00:32:33.140 --> 00:32:35.460
don't know for sure yet? No, I have to qualify

00:32:35.460 --> 00:32:38.640
again for World Cup. Yeah. We'll see what happens.

00:32:38.940 --> 00:32:42.240
Good luck there. Yeah. But I think that's also

00:32:42.240 --> 00:32:45.339
like a part of like, the last few years of like

00:32:45.339 --> 00:32:48.640
our like um competitive dynamic has been interesting

00:32:48.640 --> 00:32:51.440
because of like both being kind of on the cusp

00:32:51.440 --> 00:32:53.400
of being on development team and trying to figure

00:32:53.400 --> 00:32:58.079
it out and um like this last year or two like

00:32:58.079 --> 00:33:01.180
I was kind of just being in and then uh sometimes

00:33:01.180 --> 00:33:03.200
and then her just being out like one spot out

00:33:03.200 --> 00:33:07.660
I think that's been like um something to like

00:33:07.660 --> 00:33:10.920
we've had conversations about and so even though

00:33:10.920 --> 00:33:15.730
you um like competed all season this year unless

00:33:15.730 --> 00:33:17.710
you're in the top 10 of the world ranking you

00:33:17.710 --> 00:33:20.809
have to like re -qualify for the team yeah you

00:33:20.809 --> 00:33:23.609
get like bonus points if you're in the top 40

00:33:23.609 --> 00:33:29.730
of the continue like the world ranking um but

00:33:29.730 --> 00:33:31.650
you still have to like go back and qualify which

00:33:31.650 --> 00:33:35.509
that could change depending on like how selection

00:33:35.509 --> 00:33:39.559
they decide to select this next year but um For

00:33:39.559 --> 00:33:41.599
now, that's, yeah, like the past few years, that's

00:33:41.599 --> 00:33:44.700
how it's been. Good to know. Thanks for the explanation.

00:33:45.720 --> 00:33:48.539
And then real quick, just reflecting on your

00:33:48.539 --> 00:33:52.380
time in Curitiba, Brazil, of course. Great comp

00:33:52.380 --> 00:33:56.329
there. Why do you think that? comp went specifically

00:33:56.329 --> 00:33:59.670
so well for you please excuse this brief intermission

00:33:59.670 --> 00:34:01.950
but if you're interested in deleted scenes from

00:34:01.950 --> 00:34:03.809
this episode where we talk about how they've

00:34:03.809 --> 00:34:06.710
went through 27 coaches and we discussed dealing

00:34:06.710 --> 00:34:09.250
with failure at a high level do consider helping

00:34:09.250 --> 00:34:12.150
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00:34:12.150 --> 00:34:14.150
include a membership pin shipped to you after

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00:34:16.730 --> 00:34:19.190
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00:34:19.190 --> 00:34:21.960
come The proceeds go back into the podcast to

00:34:21.960 --> 00:34:24.059
help me break even, and they help me improve

00:34:24.059 --> 00:34:26.619
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00:34:26.619 --> 00:34:28.679
help out non -monetarily, liking, commenting,

00:34:28.780 --> 00:34:31.579
and sharing helps a great deal as well. Back

00:34:31.579 --> 00:34:34.079
to the show. Why do you think that comp went

00:34:34.079 --> 00:34:37.940
specifically so well for you? Whoa, okay. Interesting.

00:34:38.119 --> 00:34:44.679
I haven't talked about that one. I think... Well,

00:34:44.760 --> 00:34:48.500
so, I feel like the whole circuit has been like...

00:34:48.780 --> 00:34:52.599
really a lot of learning for me and specifically

00:34:52.599 --> 00:34:55.300
like i went into china right before world cup

00:34:55.300 --> 00:35:03.500
brazil and um i was like feeling super i didn't

00:35:03.500 --> 00:35:05.619
feel like i belonged there like i had all of

00:35:05.619 --> 00:35:08.739
this like uh like chatter in my head of being

00:35:08.739 --> 00:35:11.539
like oh it's not like i'm bringing down the level

00:35:11.539 --> 00:35:14.340
of the world cups i'm i i'm not supposed to be

00:35:14.340 --> 00:35:17.400
here not ready i'm like whatever the thoughts

00:35:17.400 --> 00:35:21.809
were And I was ended up being one spot out of

00:35:21.809 --> 00:35:25.849
semis, which kind of just like opened my mind

00:35:25.849 --> 00:35:28.809
up to being like, whoa, I can I'm supposed to

00:35:28.809 --> 00:35:31.309
be here. I'm good enough. And also just like,

00:35:31.369 --> 00:35:33.510
what does it mean to be supposed to be somewhere?

00:35:33.710 --> 00:35:37.650
But I think that really like opened my mind up

00:35:37.650 --> 00:35:39.789
to like the possibility of being like I could

00:35:39.789 --> 00:35:43.650
do well. And I had a like a really long conversation

00:35:43.650 --> 00:35:49.449
with my coach after. China being like what what

00:35:49.449 --> 00:35:53.969
how like I was so scared of like admitting like

00:35:53.969 --> 00:35:57.710
what I wanted kind of being like what is my potential

00:35:57.710 --> 00:36:02.409
to do like like the idea of ever like say even

00:36:02.409 --> 00:36:04.650
in the conversation I think I was like so scared

00:36:04.650 --> 00:36:06.909
to say like I want to make a final because it's

00:36:06.909 --> 00:36:10.469
like that's sounds so presumptuous or like like

00:36:10.469 --> 00:36:16.719
uh yeah like yeah yeah like Yeah, like I think

00:36:16.719 --> 00:36:20.280
that I'm capable of that. And so I think that

00:36:20.280 --> 00:36:24.099
was like all those kind of thoughts and conversations

00:36:24.099 --> 00:36:26.880
like was really helpful to me, like opening my

00:36:26.880 --> 00:36:29.260
mind up to being like, it's a possibility to

00:36:29.260 --> 00:36:32.719
make a semis or make a final. And going into

00:36:32.719 --> 00:36:36.000
Brazil, like I think that freaked me out a bit.

00:36:36.699 --> 00:36:39.739
But it was also like just like opening up those

00:36:39.739 --> 00:36:45.739
like thoughts, I think. And then. I had, like,

00:36:45.800 --> 00:36:49.659
the most terrible warm -up from... Actually,

00:36:49.699 --> 00:36:52.139
no, it wasn't semis. It was... Qualifiers had

00:36:52.139 --> 00:36:53.860
a fine warm -up. I made semis. I was, like, so

00:36:53.860 --> 00:36:56.400
excited. It was, like, my first ever semis. I

00:36:56.400 --> 00:37:00.480
cried. I was so excited. And then I had a terrible

00:37:00.480 --> 00:37:02.719
warm -up in semis where I was, like... I, like,

00:37:03.119 --> 00:37:05.219
injured my forearm a little bit. Like, nothing,

00:37:05.280 --> 00:37:07.559
like, real, but just, like, it was super painful.

00:37:07.960 --> 00:37:10.059
The night before, my coach had texted me, like,

00:37:10.079 --> 00:37:13.409
saying, like, oh, like... we were talking about

00:37:13.409 --> 00:37:15.070
finals or something and being like i was just

00:37:15.070 --> 00:37:17.289
like leave the possibility open for yourself

00:37:17.289 --> 00:37:20.670
of making finals and i think it was like just

00:37:20.670 --> 00:37:22.550
like the best reminder of being like okay like

00:37:22.550 --> 00:37:26.690
i need to like have the belief even if i don't

00:37:26.690 --> 00:37:29.809
think i am going to like i need to believe i

00:37:29.809 --> 00:37:34.570
can um and i think it was like the best like

00:37:34.570 --> 00:37:38.230
thought to like lead into uh semis of being like

00:37:38.639 --> 00:37:41.139
I can do this. I don't need to do this. I, maybe

00:37:41.139 --> 00:37:44.000
I won't happen now, but it's a possibility. Um,

00:37:44.260 --> 00:37:47.780
and then I think after like, I, I really like

00:37:47.780 --> 00:37:51.980
slabs and the first climb was a slab. Uh, and,

00:37:52.039 --> 00:37:55.360
um, I felt like I, that's like my little bubble

00:37:55.360 --> 00:37:57.059
is like, I feel like I could be confident on

00:37:57.059 --> 00:38:00.679
slabs. Um, and then after like doing this lab,

00:38:00.739 --> 00:38:04.179
I was like, okay, I could like let go of everything

00:38:04.179 --> 00:38:07.760
and like, yeah, just climb. and yeah making finals

00:38:07.760 --> 00:38:13.539
obviously was like insane yeah a while but uh

00:38:13.539 --> 00:38:16.400
yeah i think that's all like a very roundabout

00:38:16.400 --> 00:38:18.079
way of saying like i think the whole experience

00:38:18.079 --> 00:38:23.380
was like crazy to have that like moment in china

00:38:23.380 --> 00:38:25.719
thing like i could do something like i'm really

00:38:25.719 --> 00:38:27.719
far away from it but like maybe in the long term

00:38:27.719 --> 00:38:31.889
like i could be i could be good at this um And

00:38:31.889 --> 00:38:33.929
then have it, like, so kind of, like, immediately,

00:38:34.090 --> 00:38:37.510
like, validated or affirmed was really, like,

00:38:37.570 --> 00:38:40.110
a cool, obviously cool experience. But, like,

00:38:40.150 --> 00:38:44.610
yeah, meaningful. Yeah, I'm kind of surprised.

00:38:45.269 --> 00:38:48.530
Because usually when people, like, make a finals

00:38:48.530 --> 00:38:51.329
for their first time, a lot of the things I hear

00:38:51.329 --> 00:38:54.849
is just, like, they, like, something bad happened.

00:38:54.929 --> 00:38:56.769
And then they, like, go of all expectations.

00:38:57.110 --> 00:38:59.780
And they, like. just weren't thinking about it

00:38:59.780 --> 00:39:02.159
at all but you still had it in mind when you

00:39:02.159 --> 00:39:04.880
were in semis maybe not in mind like I don't

00:39:04.880 --> 00:39:09.440
think I was well I think if I'm being like super

00:39:09.440 --> 00:39:12.260
honest I think after doing this lab I was like

00:39:12.260 --> 00:39:16.679
like I I my personality is like I like to like

00:39:16.679 --> 00:39:19.760
oh like uh like daydream of being like oh like

00:39:19.760 --> 00:39:22.380
uh try to predict what's happening in the future

00:39:22.380 --> 00:39:25.920
like it can be a problem but like I like to like

00:39:25.920 --> 00:39:27.760
plan ahead of like, oh, what is that going to

00:39:27.760 --> 00:39:29.460
be like? What is this going to be like? I think

00:39:29.460 --> 00:39:31.000
I had moments of being like, oh, that would be

00:39:31.000 --> 00:39:34.260
so cool. No part of me believed it was going

00:39:34.260 --> 00:39:36.460
to like happen really. Like I didn't think it

00:39:36.460 --> 00:39:38.760
was reality, but more just being like letting

00:39:38.760 --> 00:39:42.840
myself imagine making a final. Like what would

00:39:42.840 --> 00:39:44.599
that be like? Because I wasn't letting myself

00:39:44.599 --> 00:39:47.099
think that at all before. Like at all at all.

00:39:48.460 --> 00:39:51.039
And I think I definitely during like the semis

00:39:51.039 --> 00:39:53.230
was not like. oh, I need to do this climb to

00:39:53.230 --> 00:39:54.570
make a final. I was like, I didn't think that

00:39:54.570 --> 00:39:58.710
was going to happen. And even like after climbing,

00:39:58.829 --> 00:40:01.250
I was like watching the results. I was like shocked

00:40:01.250 --> 00:40:05.250
at the results to not think I was going to place

00:40:05.250 --> 00:40:08.190
like that. Then, yeah, even like I was like really

00:40:08.190 --> 00:40:11.489
on the bubble for a while and I was like, yeah,

00:40:11.590 --> 00:40:14.969
I was not expecting it to happen. So, yeah, definitely

00:40:14.969 --> 00:40:18.849
like no expectation of making a final or not

00:40:18.849 --> 00:40:21.760
even like. like I think it was more more just

00:40:21.760 --> 00:40:24.019
like the opening of that as a possibility in

00:40:24.019 --> 00:40:28.739
the future at some point not maybe it's more

00:40:28.739 --> 00:40:30.840
just not telling myself I couldn't do it okay

00:40:30.840 --> 00:40:33.519
I get that and then how did finals feel oh my

00:40:33.519 --> 00:40:37.920
god like dream uh I love being in front of crowds

00:40:37.920 --> 00:40:40.800
like I was like I really really like being in

00:40:40.800 --> 00:40:42.480
front of crowd and that was like the most fun

00:40:42.480 --> 00:40:46.699
crowd and just like a whole I'm like I've been

00:40:46.699 --> 00:40:48.500
obsessed with the world cups like since I was

00:40:48.500 --> 00:40:51.670
like knew what a world cup was like like right

00:40:51.670 --> 00:40:54.570
around like my first youth worlds I was like

00:40:54.570 --> 00:40:56.809
oh my god world cups I never knew about this

00:40:56.809 --> 00:41:00.289
and just like have obsessed on them and so being

00:41:00.289 --> 00:41:04.690
in a final was just like yeah amazing like the

00:41:04.690 --> 00:41:07.190
all the best possible in the kind of scenario

00:41:07.190 --> 00:41:10.469
you could ever imagine a crowd and fun climbs

00:41:10.469 --> 00:41:13.829
and swinging around and like zero expectations

00:41:13.829 --> 00:41:17.679
it was pretty amazing Okay, so now going a bit

00:41:17.679 --> 00:41:20.039
into your strengths and weaknesses. I remember

00:41:20.039 --> 00:41:24.800
during that finals live stream, I think either

00:41:24.800 --> 00:41:28.539
the co -commentator or maybe Matt said that one

00:41:28.539 --> 00:41:34.000
of your weaknesses is strength, I guess, if that

00:41:34.000 --> 00:41:38.539
makes any sense. So yeah, what does that mean

00:41:38.539 --> 00:41:41.320
to you? And then Sovarae, we'll get into your

00:41:41.320 --> 00:41:44.199
strengths and weaknesses as well. I think Brazil

00:41:44.199 --> 00:41:47.480
probably was just second. a great example of

00:41:47.480 --> 00:41:51.760
like I my strength is definitely like slabs and

00:41:51.760 --> 00:41:55.119
just like general technical stuff like I feel

00:41:55.119 --> 00:41:58.019
like I'm pretty decent on like technical coordination

00:41:58.019 --> 00:42:02.280
sometimes I struggle with like power like upper

00:42:02.280 --> 00:42:05.760
body power but mostly just like hard climbing

00:42:05.760 --> 00:42:07.900
it's really hard for me like just like pulling

00:42:07.900 --> 00:42:11.840
like I think after the whole world cup circuit

00:42:11.840 --> 00:42:14.699
it was like it's been years of like having this

00:42:15.190 --> 00:42:17.449
kind of weakest being like okay this is I need

00:42:17.449 --> 00:42:20.730
to work on at every comp but especially through

00:42:20.730 --> 00:42:23.750
the world cup circuit I was like okay every comp

00:42:23.750 --> 00:42:25.929
was like I could do all the sloths I could do

00:42:25.929 --> 00:42:28.429
all the like technical stuff I just need to be

00:42:28.429 --> 00:42:32.250
able to pull so I've been working on that she

00:42:32.250 --> 00:42:36.849
actually was mid finals at and my brother was

00:42:36.849 --> 00:42:40.929
sent into our family group chat like little gifs

00:42:40.929 --> 00:42:44.269
of, like, weak little emoji and then a strong

00:42:44.269 --> 00:42:47.090
emoji and being like, this is Nikaya, like, this

00:42:47.090 --> 00:42:48.670
is what's going to happen. Like, she says, get

00:42:48.670 --> 00:42:50.869
on the kilter board. And that was always what

00:42:50.869 --> 00:42:54.170
he said. Good job. Nothing. It's just, she needs

00:42:54.170 --> 00:42:57.550
to get on the kilter board. And surprise, she's

00:42:57.550 --> 00:42:59.849
been doing a lot of board climbing. Do you feel

00:42:59.849 --> 00:43:02.329
like you've gotten stronger since then? Yeah,

00:43:02.369 --> 00:43:05.869
I try to. No, I feel like I've definitely gained

00:43:05.869 --> 00:43:10.809
a lot this year physically. It's just slow. I

00:43:10.809 --> 00:43:14.090
think strength for me is just like, I have to

00:43:14.090 --> 00:43:16.269
put the work in and it will slowly keep going.

00:43:17.030 --> 00:43:22.369
Also, I think both of us, because we've always

00:43:22.369 --> 00:43:27.030
just trained a ton of volume and skills, it's

00:43:27.030 --> 00:43:30.309
been an interesting transition. She's supernaturally

00:43:30.309 --> 00:43:35.150
strong, but for me, transitioning into more intense

00:43:35.150 --> 00:43:39.480
strength training has been like... a fun challenge

00:43:39.480 --> 00:43:42.119
of doing something differently and training a

00:43:42.119 --> 00:43:44.420
bit. And what about you? I actually don't know

00:43:44.420 --> 00:43:47.179
what my strengths are. I can hang. Oh, my God.

00:43:49.340 --> 00:43:52.800
Sovarae has the strongest fingers ever. Like,

00:43:52.800 --> 00:43:56.920
just can pull anything. Like, if you get her,

00:43:56.980 --> 00:43:59.760
like, yeah, she can bangle. I've already made

00:43:59.760 --> 00:44:03.760
a little bit of dangling. I have. a really hard

00:44:03.760 --> 00:44:07.099
time with the mental aspect so far I would say

00:44:07.099 --> 00:44:09.400
obviously I've got weaknesses in climbing still

00:44:09.400 --> 00:44:11.699
like I think I need a lot of power and stuff

00:44:11.699 --> 00:44:16.119
um but my mental is definitely a massive weakness

00:44:16.119 --> 00:44:19.780
for me and I think it's a common thing if you

00:44:19.780 --> 00:44:22.599
watch me climb I've had many people come over

00:44:22.599 --> 00:44:23.920
in the crowd and be like, yeah, you're really

00:44:23.920 --> 00:44:27.139
good. You're just mentally just bad. How could

00:44:27.139 --> 00:44:29.679
they tell? Like, what is the sign? It's pretty

00:44:29.679 --> 00:44:31.599
obvious when you watch me climb, to be entirely

00:44:31.599 --> 00:44:34.599
honest. Like certain scenarios where I really

00:44:34.599 --> 00:44:39.780
melt. Yeah, I just like shake. And yeah, I have.

00:44:40.090 --> 00:44:42.510
many photos of me looking like I'm about to start

00:44:42.510 --> 00:44:45.510
sobbing in the middle of the round and I am because

00:44:45.510 --> 00:44:48.829
I'm just mentally melting. I think from an outside

00:44:48.829 --> 00:44:51.150
perspective like I went through a similar phase

00:44:51.150 --> 00:44:55.269
when I was like probably around her age of like

00:44:55.269 --> 00:45:00.530
I think like her climbing level is so high but

00:45:00.530 --> 00:45:05.570
she's like still gaining experience and like

00:45:05.570 --> 00:45:07.730
figuring out her brain like she's like 19 just

00:45:07.730 --> 00:45:10.420
turned 19. And I think that there's, like, this

00:45:10.420 --> 00:45:14.719
little, like, period of, like, training. And

00:45:14.719 --> 00:45:16.099
I feel like I've seen that in a lot of different

00:45:16.099 --> 00:45:18.099
people, and I experienced it, where it's just

00:45:18.099 --> 00:45:20.639
learning how to deal with your brain and gaining

00:45:20.639 --> 00:45:23.119
comp experience to be able to, like, figure it

00:45:23.119 --> 00:45:25.599
out and gain those skills. Have you ever, like,

00:45:25.679 --> 00:45:29.300
tried anything to fix the mental game or, like,

00:45:29.300 --> 00:45:31.440
has anything worked for you or not worked for

00:45:31.440 --> 00:45:35.900
you? I've tried a lot. I'm definitely, I've struggled.

00:45:36.650 --> 00:45:39.809
The mental is such a hard thing to work on, at

00:45:39.809 --> 00:45:42.809
least for me. It's been, like, such a confusing

00:45:42.809 --> 00:45:46.110
and, like, overwhelming thing to try to figure

00:45:46.110 --> 00:45:49.230
out how to learn how to, like, get over. Like,

00:45:49.230 --> 00:45:50.969
I feel like for strength, this is very clear.

00:45:51.050 --> 00:45:53.469
You go lift weights or you go kilter fort and

00:45:53.469 --> 00:45:57.309
that's about it. But for the mental, what really

00:45:57.309 --> 00:46:00.110
is causing me to freak out and melt? Oh, I don't

00:46:00.110 --> 00:46:03.250
know. It could be one of eight things. And so

00:46:03.250 --> 00:46:07.630
I've read a bunch of books. been doing my little

00:46:07.630 --> 00:46:10.570
meditating and stuff I guess like I've been trying

00:46:10.570 --> 00:46:13.809
to you've been set up a lot too like I think

00:46:13.809 --> 00:46:15.130
sometimes like when you're in the thick of it

00:46:15.130 --> 00:46:17.530
it's hard to see like the progress but like it

00:46:17.530 --> 00:46:19.730
feels like you're never gonna get better like

00:46:19.730 --> 00:46:21.449
actually it feels like not to be dramatic but

00:46:21.449 --> 00:46:24.409
yeah it feels horrible and like honestly horrible

00:46:24.409 --> 00:46:27.369
um I feel like I've seen the little the steps

00:46:27.369 --> 00:46:33.309
of like like um more like gaining tools to deal

00:46:33.309 --> 00:46:36.800
with different like pressures and like being

00:46:36.800 --> 00:46:39.980
able to be under pressure and perform um and

00:46:39.980 --> 00:46:43.239
also just like like learning what you think about

00:46:43.239 --> 00:46:44.920
your climbing and how do you want to be a climber

00:46:44.920 --> 00:46:46.559
how do you want to perform like what do you want

00:46:46.559 --> 00:46:48.579
to be like in front of a crowd like i feel like

00:46:48.579 --> 00:46:51.159
i've seen those things like really consistently

00:46:51.159 --> 00:46:54.000
progress over the last few years and you do a

00:46:54.000 --> 00:46:58.019
lot of work of like um like the in the session

00:46:58.019 --> 00:47:00.539
work yeah i think that's the biggest of where

00:47:00.539 --> 00:47:03.269
it comes and i'm not allowed to do this That's

00:47:03.269 --> 00:47:05.449
not a behavior I'm allowed to do. I'm not allowed

00:47:05.449 --> 00:47:07.650
to be that. I'm banned from crying in the gym.

00:47:08.030 --> 00:47:12.969
Okay. That's not true. I ban myself. You're a

00:47:12.969 --> 00:47:15.789
big, like, gym crier? Well, yeah. Oh, I used

00:47:15.789 --> 00:47:19.650
to. We all are. Okay. But it's hard not to. When

00:47:19.650 --> 00:47:21.289
you're spending, first off, when you're spending

00:47:21.289 --> 00:47:23.489
so much time in the gym, it's hard to realize

00:47:23.489 --> 00:47:25.550
that this is not your living room. Like, you

00:47:25.550 --> 00:47:28.800
can't go. like way in the middle of space so

00:47:28.800 --> 00:47:30.780
you honestly you think it's funny but you totally

00:47:30.780 --> 00:47:33.119
forget these things like you'll just see my mom

00:47:33.119 --> 00:47:34.940
will just like she spends so much time in the

00:47:34.940 --> 00:47:36.719
gym she forgets too so she'll be laying in the

00:47:36.719 --> 00:47:39.039
middle of the pads and you're like mom like get

00:47:39.039 --> 00:47:47.280
up that is I think helps um to set some standards

00:47:47.280 --> 00:47:53.599
I think figuring out like just how I can be comfortable

00:47:53.599 --> 00:47:57.159
under pressure and like in front of people and

00:47:57.159 --> 00:48:00.300
on display is something that i think i've been

00:48:00.300 --> 00:48:03.619
working on and i think is helping oh like in

00:48:03.619 --> 00:48:05.559
front of a camera i hate being in front of a

00:48:05.559 --> 00:48:08.400
camera oftentimes like i don't i don't like that

00:48:08.400 --> 00:48:13.059
feeling like having pressure on me i guess so

00:48:13.059 --> 00:48:16.760
i think trying to develop that like being okay

00:48:16.760 --> 00:48:20.840
with that i think has helped also having an image

00:48:20.840 --> 00:48:26.309
of how like positive mental space can feel like

00:48:26.309 --> 00:48:30.309
are in such a space of a space or like a run

00:48:30.309 --> 00:48:33.909
of so many bad mental calms you honestly just

00:48:33.909 --> 00:48:37.389
forget that that's a like a possibility where

00:48:37.389 --> 00:48:41.369
like i forgot like i was like oh no i just feel

00:48:41.369 --> 00:48:43.650
like i'm gonna cry through climbing like driving

00:48:43.650 --> 00:48:47.829
around that is just how i am and then you just

00:48:47.829 --> 00:48:49.530
taste that back and you can kind of understand

00:48:49.530 --> 00:48:53.079
like okay i don't need to feel like My entire

00:48:53.079 --> 00:48:55.019
life is going to end as soon as I step on this

00:48:55.019 --> 00:48:59.360
fence. Yeah. Honestly, it seems so dramatic and,

00:48:59.360 --> 00:49:03.380
like, over -talked. But when you're in it, it

00:49:03.380 --> 00:49:06.380
feels so like your life is about to end as soon

00:49:06.380 --> 00:49:09.940
as you step on this fence. So, like, crowd, not

00:49:09.940 --> 00:49:13.960
good for you. The funny bit is I used to, like,

00:49:14.039 --> 00:49:17.079
way outperform myself in comps. And I loved being

00:49:17.079 --> 00:49:19.159
in front of the crowd. And I still do. Like,

00:49:19.219 --> 00:49:20.980
I think I'm not super, like, stage fright or

00:49:20.980 --> 00:49:25.139
anything. But seeing that, like, pressure, it

00:49:25.139 --> 00:49:28.239
just made me melt for a really long time and

00:49:28.239 --> 00:49:31.280
still does. I don't think it makes you melt.

00:49:31.360 --> 00:49:33.840
You're just figuring it out until you're in the

00:49:33.840 --> 00:49:36.340
process. Okay. So, Nikaya, you said that you're

00:49:36.340 --> 00:49:40.500
majoring in sports psychology. I guess, based

00:49:40.500 --> 00:49:43.659
on what you've seen, like, what is your advice

00:49:43.659 --> 00:49:47.260
to her? I feel like most of my advice comes from

00:49:47.260 --> 00:49:50.349
my experience, not really. my psychology major

00:49:50.349 --> 00:49:54.289
just because of being like a little bit older

00:49:54.289 --> 00:49:58.110
I feel like I've um I feel like I could give

00:49:58.110 --> 00:50:01.409
like advice in those ways I think like we talk

00:50:01.409 --> 00:50:05.170
about it all the time um I think my my biggest

00:50:05.170 --> 00:50:08.809
thing is like when you're in the thick of it

00:50:08.809 --> 00:50:13.949
like it's so hard to see a way out or like what

00:50:13.949 --> 00:50:18.119
it could be like or how all of this is like actually

00:50:18.119 --> 00:50:20.840
helping you and you're like learning and gaining

00:50:20.840 --> 00:50:22.900
and building and you can't because it's so slow

00:50:22.900 --> 00:50:25.519
and it's so like messy it's really hard to see

00:50:25.519 --> 00:50:28.199
that it's there there's upward movement to all

00:50:28.199 --> 00:50:32.099
of this it can just feel like a like a mess um

00:50:32.099 --> 00:50:35.119
and so i guess like my biggest advice would be

00:50:35.119 --> 00:50:39.300
just like be kind to yourself it's gonna be like

00:50:39.300 --> 00:50:43.460
uh hard but that that the other side of that

00:50:43.460 --> 00:50:48.159
is like so important Not for, like, for climbing,

00:50:48.219 --> 00:50:50.460
obviously. Like, figuring it out is, like, great.

00:50:50.539 --> 00:50:53.960
And I think that once she settles, like, her

00:50:53.960 --> 00:50:56.179
brain some, like, her climbing ability is going

00:50:56.179 --> 00:50:58.599
to be, like, insane. But I think more so just

00:50:58.599 --> 00:51:01.800
for, like, life, knowledge of yourself, knowledge

00:51:01.800 --> 00:51:07.199
of how to live life. It will be, like, life lessons

00:51:07.199 --> 00:51:09.940
you can't get anywhere else. Just, like, having

00:51:09.940 --> 00:51:12.000
to learn how to, like, master your own brain

00:51:12.000 --> 00:51:17.130
in such a weird bubble of competition. That you're

00:51:17.130 --> 00:51:19.210
never going to get, you probably won't get other

00:51:19.210 --> 00:51:21.250
places, but it's just so rare. Like I think,

00:51:21.250 --> 00:51:24.789
yeah. Outside of like sports and competition,

00:51:24.949 --> 00:51:30.849
it is so rare to get such a clear like image

00:51:30.849 --> 00:51:33.969
of failure. In your everyday life, you don't

00:51:33.969 --> 00:51:37.110
have such a cute failure in like, unless you

00:51:37.110 --> 00:51:39.130
get fired from your job or something like that.

00:51:39.190 --> 00:51:41.969
Like the instances of failure are more like black

00:51:41.969 --> 00:51:44.679
and white. And so I think those are really good

00:51:44.679 --> 00:51:47.480
lessons that come with climbing is being able

00:51:47.480 --> 00:51:51.019
to have such a clear, you either succeeded and

00:51:51.019 --> 00:51:53.960
you won the comp or you failed and you didn't.

00:51:54.260 --> 00:51:57.179
And that is a very acute moment to deal with

00:51:57.179 --> 00:51:59.820
or something. That's a good way to put it. Okay,

00:51:59.920 --> 00:52:02.159
so then thinking more about the positive side

00:52:02.159 --> 00:52:05.340
of climbing and World Cups, you guys travel a

00:52:05.340 --> 00:52:08.739
lot together to the World Cups. What has been

00:52:08.739 --> 00:52:11.980
your favorite place to travel to? Definitely

00:52:11.980 --> 00:52:15.519
Bern. Oh, my God. I really loved that city. I

00:52:15.519 --> 00:52:20.820
went in the river every day. Maybe, yeah, definitely

00:52:20.820 --> 00:52:24.179
my favorite place ever. It was so cool. I'm like

00:52:24.179 --> 00:52:29.239
a water person, but I loved it. It was so expensive,

00:52:29.500 --> 00:52:32.880
but I loved, loved the river. I think that's

00:52:32.880 --> 00:52:34.760
definitely the coolest. I really like China.

00:52:35.400 --> 00:52:37.800
It was really fun. I think it's so different

00:52:37.800 --> 00:52:42.079
from what we're used to. such a unique travel

00:52:42.079 --> 00:52:44.380
experience that I probably wouldn't have had

00:52:44.380 --> 00:52:47.679
was it climbing so it's definitely one of my

00:52:47.679 --> 00:52:50.460
top places I think yeah you did say that while

00:52:50.460 --> 00:52:52.920
you were there and I was surprised to hear it

00:52:52.920 --> 00:52:54.820
then and I guess every time I hear it I'm still

00:52:54.820 --> 00:52:57.940
surprised to hear it now um I know I remember

00:52:57.940 --> 00:53:01.679
um discussing with you about like nutrition abroad

00:53:01.679 --> 00:53:05.019
and like eating um because you guys have some

00:53:05.019 --> 00:53:08.000
dietary restrictions um what does that look like

00:53:08.000 --> 00:53:10.239
for you when you when you're traveling Well,

00:53:10.420 --> 00:53:14.340
she's vegetarian, so it mostly is just bread

00:53:14.340 --> 00:53:16.400
when I'm short of the country. I'm long -legged.

00:53:16.780 --> 00:53:20.300
Oh, that's difficult. Yeah, I just love bread.

00:53:20.380 --> 00:53:23.119
I think it's nice to just end up eating a lot

00:53:23.119 --> 00:53:28.579
of bread. And then I'm vegetarian and gluten

00:53:28.579 --> 00:53:33.480
-free, and I try to eat dairy. And so it kind

00:53:33.480 --> 00:53:36.340
of gets very difficult traveling in Asia because,

00:53:36.400 --> 00:53:39.960
like, soy sauce has gluten. every sauce has been

00:53:39.960 --> 00:53:43.460
and so uh that part was definitely a challenge

00:53:43.460 --> 00:53:45.699
of trying to figure out how to travel and like

00:53:45.699 --> 00:53:49.260
compete um but I've like figured out like if

00:53:49.260 --> 00:53:52.880
I just pack a suitcase with a lot of tofu and

00:53:52.880 --> 00:53:56.679
like bring most of my food with me that works

00:53:56.679 --> 00:54:00.360
really well especially in Asia um and then Europe

00:54:00.360 --> 00:54:03.119
is was pretty easy like I could just go to grocery

00:54:03.119 --> 00:54:05.340
stores the whole time but no yeah that was a

00:54:05.340 --> 00:54:06.920
little interesting trying to figure out how to

00:54:06.920 --> 00:54:10.440
like I was so sick of tofu by the end. Oh, I

00:54:10.440 --> 00:54:13.179
bet. Yeah. Can you share, like, your best tofu

00:54:13.179 --> 00:54:16.280
recipes? Okay. I'm not the person for that, though,

00:54:16.320 --> 00:54:19.420
because I eat, like, the most disgusting food.

00:54:19.880 --> 00:54:24.519
Oh, it's not good. I don't. I'm not, like, a

00:54:24.519 --> 00:54:27.380
foodie type person. And so I just eat, like,

00:54:27.400 --> 00:54:31.039
for training. Like, when I'm, like, I don't know.

00:54:31.079 --> 00:54:34.380
I eat tofu straight and, like, and then chips

00:54:34.380 --> 00:54:37.840
straight. It's so gross. I was weird. Yeah. i'm

00:54:37.840 --> 00:54:40.219
not not a great example for that you've like

00:54:40.219 --> 00:54:42.900
never tried anything that was like oh i could

00:54:42.900 --> 00:54:45.219
eat this all the time and it's like delicious

00:54:45.219 --> 00:54:51.360
um she sometimes mixes like pudding mix package

00:54:51.360 --> 00:54:55.039
oh that's pretty good yeah soaking tofu with

00:54:55.039 --> 00:54:59.619
uh like packaged pudding mix i actually did try

00:54:59.619 --> 00:55:02.500
making that once after you told me um it didn't

00:55:02.500 --> 00:55:04.719
turn out very good so can you tell me how to

00:55:04.719 --> 00:55:07.619
make it again wait which did you what type of

00:55:07.619 --> 00:55:09.440
soap and glue did you use there was only one

00:55:09.440 --> 00:55:12.019
type at the grocery store so whichever one that

00:55:12.019 --> 00:55:17.199
was yeah and then I used like uh the jello pudding

00:55:17.199 --> 00:55:21.199
mix but the one I did use I think it was like

00:55:21.199 --> 00:55:23.340
sugar -free or like fat -free so I don't know

00:55:23.340 --> 00:55:27.139
if that's what was disgusting yeah you nothing

00:55:27.139 --> 00:55:30.579
sugar -free okay you gotta just use yeah just

00:55:30.579 --> 00:55:33.360
basic chocolate It's really good. Or the lemon

00:55:33.360 --> 00:55:35.139
one's pretty good. The chocolate's more normal.

00:55:35.340 --> 00:55:37.920
I think also this is something like we grew up

00:55:37.920 --> 00:55:41.500
out of China. And so this was like weird food

00:55:41.500 --> 00:55:44.820
combo. Like we grew up on tofu. So I think I've

00:55:44.820 --> 00:55:46.860
given it to people like, this is the best thing

00:55:46.860 --> 00:55:48.619
ever. You have to try it. They're like, yeah,

00:55:48.880 --> 00:55:52.920
that's not good. But I love it. Well, I think

00:55:52.920 --> 00:55:55.599
it brings a new taste. I will try it again. Is

00:55:55.599 --> 00:55:59.179
it just like one packet of the Jell -O mix, one

00:55:59.179 --> 00:56:01.260
packet of the silken tofu, and then you just

00:56:01.260 --> 00:56:04.469
like. I literally just do it to taste. You just

00:56:04.469 --> 00:56:07.550
take a fork and mix the tofu. Blend it. It's

00:56:07.550 --> 00:56:11.530
way better. If you're not lazy, just throw it

00:56:11.530 --> 00:56:14.329
in a blender and it's nice and smooth and it's

00:56:14.329 --> 00:56:17.929
good. Add a little bit of milk. You shouldn't

00:56:17.929 --> 00:56:22.469
do any of this. Just put it in a bowl and mix

00:56:22.469 --> 00:56:24.969
it. I will try it. It's good protein, though.

00:56:25.090 --> 00:56:27.190
It's the easiest thing ever. And it tastes good.

00:56:27.469 --> 00:56:30.230
If I find other protein recipes, I'll send it

00:56:30.230 --> 00:56:33.329
over. Now, I guess let's get into some like maybe

00:56:33.329 --> 00:56:36.789
hot takes you guys have about climbing. I know

00:56:36.789 --> 00:56:40.150
you mentioned you think that losing is more important

00:56:40.150 --> 00:56:44.369
than winning. Yes. I'm going to offer conversations.

00:56:44.610 --> 00:56:50.289
I'm going to come off so negative. I think, yeah,

00:56:50.409 --> 00:56:52.809
so I think losing is definitely, especially for

00:56:52.809 --> 00:56:56.190
like younger athletes. is way more and just in

00:56:56.190 --> 00:56:59.110
general is way more important than winning um

00:56:59.110 --> 00:57:04.690
because like my kind of like uh my values in

00:57:04.690 --> 00:57:07.670
climbing are like like for me i have like rations

00:57:07.670 --> 00:57:10.070
why i'm doing everything and so it's like okay

00:57:10.070 --> 00:57:12.730
like why am i climbing like it's not for like

00:57:12.730 --> 00:57:14.889
i really enjoy it but like it's taking up a lot

00:57:14.889 --> 00:57:17.510
of my life like why why am i doing it like um

00:57:17.510 --> 00:57:20.949
like because there is sacrifice of like not going

00:57:20.949 --> 00:57:23.849
to life school or like doing those things And

00:57:23.849 --> 00:57:26.409
for me, it's like all about like making myself

00:57:26.409 --> 00:57:29.250
a better person and learning about myself, learning

00:57:29.250 --> 00:57:35.010
tools for life. And I think in the past, I've

00:57:35.010 --> 00:57:40.110
been like really scared of losing and like or

00:57:40.110 --> 00:57:42.590
just disappointed in general because I'm like

00:57:42.590 --> 00:57:45.650
I'm putting so much into this. Like I need results

00:57:45.650 --> 00:57:49.369
or like it needs to be fun to be worth it kind

00:57:49.369 --> 00:57:52.230
of. And fun being like fun in the way of being

00:57:52.230 --> 00:57:55.949
like, yeah. it won kind of um and I think the

00:57:55.949 --> 00:58:00.710
more I've like been competing I've realized that

00:58:00.710 --> 00:58:04.469
like every time I've had those like super devastating

00:58:04.469 --> 00:58:08.670
competitions or losses I have like so much more

00:58:08.670 --> 00:58:11.130
learning that's come out of those about myself

00:58:11.130 --> 00:58:14.469
about my climbing like just making myself a better

00:58:14.469 --> 00:58:17.949
climber but also making myself like uh like a

00:58:17.949 --> 00:58:21.909
better human um and I think I see sometimes like

00:58:22.159 --> 00:58:25.539
um parents or like coaches or even like athletes

00:58:25.539 --> 00:58:29.860
being so scared of their like um whether like

00:58:29.860 --> 00:58:32.760
if it's like a parent their kid losing and being

00:58:32.760 --> 00:58:34.619
like oh we went to this comp and like it just

00:58:34.619 --> 00:58:36.280
wasn't worth it like we shouldn't have gone like

00:58:36.280 --> 00:58:39.000
they lost it they weren't having fun which i

00:58:39.000 --> 00:58:42.360
think is so important to have fun like there's

00:58:42.360 --> 00:58:44.280
no reason to be doing this other than like like

00:58:44.280 --> 00:58:49.150
if you don't enjoy it don't do it um But I think

00:58:49.150 --> 00:58:51.570
like sometimes people miss the like factor of

00:58:51.570 --> 00:58:55.829
like that those hard moments are like where you

00:58:55.829 --> 00:58:58.929
grow. And like that's the whole point of everything

00:58:58.929 --> 00:59:01.210
is like learning in those moments how to turn

00:59:01.210 --> 00:59:03.730
around and have those also the super fun moments.

00:59:03.889 --> 00:59:05.550
Do you have any thoughts on that? Do you disagree?

00:59:05.789 --> 00:59:09.590
Agree? No, I very much agree with that. I very

00:59:09.590 --> 00:59:12.110
much agree with that. I think there's especially

00:59:12.110 --> 00:59:14.110
like if you go to youth nationals, you hear so

00:59:14.110 --> 00:59:18.050
much like. Oh, I'm so devastated my kid didn't

00:59:18.050 --> 00:59:20.650
make it to, like, semifinals and stuff. And I

00:59:20.650 --> 00:59:22.190
think particularly looking at this from, like,

00:59:22.289 --> 00:59:26.130
a youth athlete perspective, that is such a harmful

00:59:26.130 --> 00:59:30.610
way to think about it. Like, when you, like,

00:59:30.610 --> 00:59:34.010
lose, it's kind of more rewarding, I would say,

00:59:34.090 --> 00:59:37.210
in some really nasty way. It's not fun, obviously.

00:59:37.409 --> 00:59:39.389
Most of the time, it's not very fun. Well, you

00:59:39.389 --> 00:59:41.329
know, just from a fun perspective, if you win

00:59:41.329 --> 00:59:43.210
all the time, it stops being that fun. You just

00:59:43.210 --> 00:59:45.630
feel cool. You start feeling expectations to,

00:59:45.670 --> 00:59:47.789
like, you have to keep winning. Yeah, or even

00:59:47.789 --> 00:59:50.590
just, like, it's not novel then. If you didn't

00:59:50.590 --> 00:59:52.750
work for it, it's not that important. I agree

00:59:52.750 --> 00:59:55.150
with that. Did you manage to think of another

00:59:55.150 --> 00:59:59.630
hot take in between the time? I did. This might

00:59:59.630 --> 01:00:03.630
be a controversial hot take. I think most people

01:00:03.630 --> 01:00:06.130
who say that they hate comp climbing haven't

01:00:06.130 --> 01:00:08.980
been shown how to like comp climbing. Because

01:00:08.980 --> 01:00:11.559
I've met many people who have been like, oh,

01:00:11.659 --> 01:00:13.400
well, I just don't like comp climbing. Like,

01:00:13.400 --> 01:00:16.099
it's just style. Yeah, comp style climbing, sorry.

01:00:17.239 --> 01:00:20.739
And then have like climbed with them and like

01:00:20.739 --> 01:00:23.260
done jumps with them or done more like compy

01:00:23.260 --> 01:00:26.559
style climbs. And then they've walked away really

01:00:26.559 --> 01:00:29.559
enjoying it. So I think that they need to be

01:00:29.559 --> 01:00:33.000
shown because it's kind of, if you don't know

01:00:33.000 --> 01:00:35.980
the new non -snow movement, it is like quite

01:00:35.980 --> 01:00:39.409
intimidating. and it doesn't make sense and so

01:00:39.409 --> 01:00:42.050
you're just like why would I do this like weird

01:00:42.050 --> 01:00:44.949
jump that just doesn't make sense or even just

01:00:44.949 --> 01:00:46.590
like the power climbs that are called climbs

01:00:46.590 --> 01:00:52.670
I think if people are shown what it is and shown

01:00:52.670 --> 01:00:55.849
how they can learn the moves I think this is

01:00:55.849 --> 01:01:00.010
they can learn to like it quite easily now I

01:01:00.010 --> 01:01:03.659
will say my brother is yeah I was gonna say literally

01:01:03.659 --> 01:01:06.500
hates like he refuses to jump like we're going

01:01:06.500 --> 01:01:08.019
to jump like the gym with him like we're caught

01:01:08.019 --> 01:01:10.039
each other's jump like it's so much fun he's

01:01:10.039 --> 01:01:12.699
like nah I don't con climb nah bro and he like

01:01:12.699 --> 01:01:16.219
legitimately hates it so I think that there's

01:01:16.219 --> 01:01:19.039
some people that just legitimately hate it but

01:01:19.039 --> 01:01:21.139
I think most of the time people just need to

01:01:21.139 --> 01:01:23.739
be shown how to enjoy it and that's just about

01:01:23.739 --> 01:01:26.800
like the style of movement not like the the all

01:01:26.800 --> 01:01:29.159
the other like aspects of like competitiveness

01:01:29.159 --> 01:01:31.300
that come with it Poorly phrased, yeah. Just

01:01:31.300 --> 01:01:33.559
the style of climbing. Probably pertains also

01:01:33.559 --> 01:01:35.860
to, like, I think some people just aren't meant

01:01:35.860 --> 01:01:39.539
for competitive environments. But I think there's

01:01:39.539 --> 01:01:43.079
a lot of people that don't have the tools to

01:01:43.079 --> 01:01:46.239
enjoy being in a competitive environment. Yeah,

01:01:46.320 --> 01:01:48.420
for sure. Not being able to, like, cope with

01:01:48.420 --> 01:01:52.320
the pressure and stuff is, like, makes it so

01:01:52.320 --> 01:01:54.239
it's not enjoyable. It was actually really interesting.

01:01:54.400 --> 01:01:57.519
I did a local comp for fun. a few years back

01:01:57.519 --> 01:02:01.780
and two guys made into finals who had never like

01:02:01.780 --> 01:02:04.699
I think it was their first comp before and they

01:02:04.699 --> 01:02:07.400
won they're both super super nervous like we're

01:02:07.400 --> 01:02:09.920
not having a time and then the comp actually

01:02:09.920 --> 01:02:13.099
started one started having a really good time

01:02:13.099 --> 01:02:16.099
and was like super enjoying it and was just like

01:02:16.099 --> 01:02:17.980
kind of having fun being in front of the crowd

01:02:17.980 --> 01:02:20.900
and then the other one was just melting like

01:02:20.900 --> 01:02:23.179
could not it was just not having a good like

01:02:23.179 --> 01:02:25.849
a good time at all and so I think that kind of

01:02:25.849 --> 01:02:29.130
demonstrates that some people get thrown into

01:02:29.130 --> 01:02:30.710
the environment really enjoy it and other people

01:02:30.710 --> 01:02:33.969
just do not at all well but then that would kind

01:02:33.969 --> 01:02:36.050
of mean that you don't actually don't enjoy it

01:02:36.050 --> 01:02:40.389
since you're usually the one melting i will say

01:02:40.389 --> 01:02:45.150
from like more yeah a different perspective so

01:02:45.150 --> 01:02:48.809
right like uh like well while she's like struggles

01:02:48.809 --> 01:02:53.139
with i think the pressure aspects and uh even

01:02:53.139 --> 01:02:56.219
can like sometimes be like appear shy and like

01:02:56.219 --> 01:03:01.119
when she's climbing she is like so good under

01:03:01.119 --> 01:03:06.440
pressure and i think it's like fueled by competitiveness

01:03:06.440 --> 01:03:10.059
for like for sure i love being competitive i

01:03:10.059 --> 01:03:13.159
like uh so much that sort of like tension of

01:03:13.159 --> 01:03:15.039
being like someone's better than me or i'm better

01:03:15.039 --> 01:03:17.059
than them or let's see who's better on this climb

01:03:17.059 --> 01:03:20.199
or just in general in life of being like card

01:03:20.199 --> 01:03:26.099
games really enjoys that i i would say that it's

01:03:26.099 --> 01:03:29.559
not i to change what i said previously i would

01:03:29.559 --> 01:03:33.280
say that it's not that i dislike that i think

01:03:33.280 --> 01:03:37.460
sometimes it is a very fine like line between

01:03:37.460 --> 01:03:40.500
the enjoyment of it and not enjoyment of it or

01:03:40.500 --> 01:03:43.260
being even able to like cope with it and sometimes

01:03:43.260 --> 01:03:46.820
like this previous like stint of being struggling

01:03:46.820 --> 01:03:50.880
in comps was when i wasn't able to enjoy it or

01:03:50.880 --> 01:03:54.559
to be okay under that in that feeling that feeling

01:03:54.559 --> 01:03:57.920
turned really nasty and uncomfortable versus

01:03:57.920 --> 01:04:02.360
when sometimes it feels exciting and like yeah

01:04:02.360 --> 01:04:05.619
engaging whatever that makes sense no yeah it

01:04:05.619 --> 01:04:09.280
makes sense yeah okay well thank you for sharing

01:04:09.280 --> 01:04:13.619
your hot tapes So last question I have and then

01:04:13.619 --> 01:04:15.159
we'll have some like audience submitted questions.

01:04:16.139 --> 01:04:18.000
I mean, it sounds like you guys spend a lot of

01:04:18.000 --> 01:04:20.900
time in the gym climbing. Do you guys have time

01:04:20.900 --> 01:04:23.659
for like other stuff or like outside hobbies

01:04:23.659 --> 01:04:28.260
outside of climbing? Well, I do school. That

01:04:28.260 --> 01:04:32.300
is a lot. No, I think it is hard because like

01:04:32.300 --> 01:04:35.460
in one more training, most of the time we're

01:04:35.460 --> 01:04:37.980
like six to eight hours in the gym a day. It's

01:04:37.980 --> 01:04:44.179
like tough. But I really like to do art. I like

01:04:44.179 --> 01:04:47.000
to paint and draw. And I recently started swimming.

01:04:47.300 --> 01:04:51.639
I like this before training. But I love it. Oh,

01:04:51.679 --> 01:04:55.619
my God. I like to do a lot of swimming. I've

01:04:55.619 --> 01:04:57.800
never been able to get into running. I've also

01:04:57.800 --> 01:05:02.219
trained to run. But it hurts so bad to run. It

01:05:02.219 --> 01:05:07.159
hurts. And now every day I can get away with

01:05:07.159 --> 01:05:08.840
it with training. I'm like, let's go swimming.

01:05:09.980 --> 01:05:12.079
I can't deal with the swimming. I just went swimming

01:05:12.079 --> 01:05:14.380
yesterday. Well, first of all, I can't really

01:05:14.380 --> 01:05:19.639
swim. So that doesn't help. She can swim, but

01:05:19.639 --> 01:05:21.579
she's like a little so -so and she doesn't...

01:05:21.579 --> 01:05:24.420
It's not as fun if you're like figuring out how

01:05:24.420 --> 01:05:28.400
to swim. Yeah. It was exhausting and bad and

01:05:28.400 --> 01:05:30.400
embarrassing. I like didn't want the lifeguard

01:05:30.400 --> 01:05:32.260
to look at me, even though the lifeguard should

01:05:32.260 --> 01:05:34.159
probably be looking at me because I might die.

01:05:34.559 --> 01:05:37.820
I have like zero, like my embarrassment. Oh,

01:05:37.820 --> 01:05:40.949
it's... like threshold is really high i don't

01:05:40.949 --> 01:05:44.110
think about that's good so i'm i yeah i can make

01:05:44.110 --> 01:05:46.190
a fool of myself the first time we went swimming

01:05:46.190 --> 01:05:48.909
she took me swimming and went directly in front

01:05:48.909 --> 01:05:51.349
of the lifeguard which is like a 15 year old

01:05:51.349 --> 01:05:53.429
little boy he was just sitting there me the entire

01:05:53.429 --> 01:05:56.530
time and i'm like flail it was the worst experience

01:05:56.530 --> 01:06:00.510
i relate to that no you just gotta like think

01:06:00.510 --> 01:06:03.550
about all the people that go and and go and don't

01:06:03.550 --> 01:06:06.550
know how to swim That's me? Yeah, but there's

01:06:06.550 --> 01:06:08.570
so many of you then. Like, do you even care?

01:06:09.829 --> 01:06:13.230
Yeah, I know, I know. It's so cool when you get

01:06:13.230 --> 01:06:15.849
a little rhythm. Like, your brain turns off and

01:06:15.849 --> 01:06:18.329
you're just like, oh. Like, that's like, yeah,

01:06:18.469 --> 01:06:21.469
it's fun. It's nice. I mean, I can't turn my

01:06:21.469 --> 01:06:23.969
brain off. Like, even when, like, floating on

01:06:23.969 --> 01:06:25.769
my back, I have to think really hard about, like,

01:06:25.769 --> 01:06:29.329
breathing. Or else I'll, like, sink. So, for

01:06:29.329 --> 01:06:31.570
me, like, my brain doesn't turn off a lot. It's,

01:06:31.590 --> 01:06:34.079
like, very loud. And so this is like the first

01:06:34.079 --> 01:06:36.340
time where I've been like, oh, I could like swim

01:06:36.340 --> 01:06:39.400
and just focus on like the rhythm of ice swimming.

01:06:39.820 --> 01:06:45.400
And just I'm able to have quiet a little. I think

01:06:45.400 --> 01:06:47.360
that makes sense if you know how to swim. Yeah.

01:06:47.400 --> 01:06:49.820
Like otherwise, it's just like I'm about to drown

01:06:49.820 --> 01:06:52.980
all the time. It's not quiet. It's just panic.

01:06:53.179 --> 01:06:56.539
Yeah. Yeah, exactly. Screaming in there. Yeah.

01:06:56.760 --> 01:06:59.380
So Rae, what about you? I do. Yeah, I do school

01:06:59.380 --> 01:07:03.239
too. I like baking and I like reading. so that's

01:07:03.239 --> 01:07:06.480
my like to become allowed to share your Harry

01:07:06.480 --> 01:07:09.920
Potter oh yeah she's like obsessed with Harry

01:07:09.920 --> 01:07:13.719
Potter huh like obsessed like she listens to

01:07:13.719 --> 01:07:17.639
it on a loop oh my gosh whole series like every

01:07:17.639 --> 01:07:20.920
time she showers like like obsessed and like

01:07:20.920 --> 01:07:24.840
in comps she listens to Harry Potter like she's

01:07:24.840 --> 01:07:28.599
like mega fan and so that takes a long time oh

01:07:28.599 --> 01:07:31.179
my god you should show her here She just made

01:07:31.179 --> 01:07:33.860
a Lego. Okay, I did recently discover Legos.

01:07:34.739 --> 01:07:42.019
It's so much fun. Yeah, show it. She's been so

01:07:42.019 --> 01:07:45.699
proud of this. She made a little Lego Harry Potter

01:07:45.699 --> 01:07:49.699
thing. Interesting. So it's like instead of music,

01:07:49.760 --> 01:07:52.780
it's just Harry Potter. Yeah, this was part of

01:07:52.780 --> 01:07:55.699
figuring out her mental tools. This is something

01:07:55.699 --> 01:07:57.780
she came up with because she finds it calming.

01:07:59.280 --> 01:08:02.380
She listens to Harry Potter. It's very relaxing.

01:08:03.599 --> 01:08:09.960
Whoa. Oh, okay. Sorry, I've never watched Harry

01:08:09.960 --> 01:08:12.280
Potter, so I don't know what that is. You don't

01:08:12.280 --> 01:08:15.739
watch them. The movies are terrible. But the

01:08:15.739 --> 01:08:18.859
books are so good. I haven't read or watched.

01:08:18.979 --> 01:08:21.020
I did try to read it, so I stopped watching the

01:08:21.020 --> 01:08:22.920
movies past the second because they were too

01:08:22.920 --> 01:08:25.819
scary for me. And then I tried to read the books

01:08:25.819 --> 01:08:28.890
instead. But then the third... like something

01:08:28.890 --> 01:08:31.329
in like the fourth book was also too scary for

01:08:31.329 --> 01:08:35.369
me like i had recurring nightmares from reading

01:08:35.369 --> 01:08:38.829
it so then i i was like i have to stop i i just

01:08:38.829 --> 01:08:42.350
like can't to read it until i was like 13 or

01:08:42.350 --> 01:08:44.250
something because of my mom was like you're gonna

01:08:44.250 --> 01:08:47.329
get scared it is very scary i'm still too scared

01:08:47.329 --> 01:08:51.430
but they're so good it's worth like it's yeah

01:08:51.430 --> 01:08:54.880
the plot It's past. People don't even like Harry

01:08:54.880 --> 01:08:58.680
Potter anymore, so it's okay. It's like beyond.

01:09:00.319 --> 01:09:02.979
I thought I wouldn't have to talk to people about

01:09:02.979 --> 01:09:06.180
it anymore after a certain year. I don't know.

01:09:06.199 --> 01:09:11.460
What's the new fantasy? That's old, too. No,

01:09:11.460 --> 01:09:18.449
that's old, too. You guys are old souls. He's,

01:09:18.449 --> 01:09:22.109
like, obsessed with vintage, like, old, like,

01:09:22.170 --> 01:09:24.670
children's, like, fairy tales. And she, like,

01:09:24.829 --> 01:09:27.329
collects the books. Like, old, like, vintage

01:09:27.329 --> 01:09:30.449
books. I enjoy reading them. No, I think, I mean,

01:09:30.449 --> 01:09:32.930
at a certain point, like, vintage becomes, like,

01:09:32.949 --> 01:09:36.649
new again. But with, like, Hunger Games and Harry

01:09:36.649 --> 01:09:39.170
Potter, it's kind of, like, the cringe millennial

01:09:39.170 --> 01:09:42.550
thing now, I think. Not that it's cringe. I just,

01:09:42.569 --> 01:09:45.470
I really didn't think that anyone was going to

01:09:45.470 --> 01:09:48.060
talk about it. You didn't expect that coming

01:09:48.060 --> 01:09:52.159
up today. But okay, what is the Lego set? It's

01:09:52.159 --> 01:09:55.720
like a plant from the movie. Oh, okay. Yeah,

01:09:55.819 --> 01:09:59.079
it's really not that cool. I mean, it's cute.

01:09:59.539 --> 01:10:02.880
It's called a mandrake. And they scream and they

01:10:02.880 --> 01:10:04.680
like make you pass out if you scream or something

01:10:04.680 --> 01:10:06.939
like that. Oh, maybe I did get to that part.

01:10:07.180 --> 01:10:09.960
They are like kind of cute, right? Yeah. Well,

01:10:10.039 --> 01:10:12.000
no, they're like a little there. They're little

01:10:12.000 --> 01:10:15.390
like ugly men. The babies. Yeah, that's cute.

01:10:15.510 --> 01:10:18.069
And they grow up. They get to be teenagers. Okay.

01:10:18.609 --> 01:10:22.869
This is important stuff. Yeah. The whole Harry

01:10:22.869 --> 01:10:25.189
Potter thing. Okay, well, I think it is interesting

01:10:25.189 --> 01:10:28.550
that you listen to the books, like, during competitions.

01:10:29.890 --> 01:10:32.069
I mean, I know, like, Mac Room sometimes goes

01:10:32.069 --> 01:10:33.789
around and, like, asks people what they're listening

01:10:33.789 --> 01:10:36.850
to. So it would be very interesting if you got

01:10:36.850 --> 01:10:41.460
asked that. It's also during sessions. quite

01:10:41.460 --> 01:10:44.659
often yeah i think most people do music so that's

01:10:44.659 --> 01:10:48.600
that's good to know okay so let's get into some

01:10:48.600 --> 01:10:50.899
of the audience submitted question um the first

01:10:50.899 --> 01:10:56.579
one is from discord uh name is climber rph They're

01:10:56.579 --> 01:11:00.159
curious about shoes, not so much the brand, but

01:11:00.159 --> 01:11:02.560
how you wear them for comps. So do you wear the

01:11:02.560 --> 01:11:04.720
same pair for training and comps or do you have

01:11:04.720 --> 01:11:07.520
like a dedicated comp pair? And like how broken

01:11:07.520 --> 01:11:10.600
in do they need to be before you want to wear

01:11:10.600 --> 01:11:14.680
them in a comp and how worn is too worn? My shoes,

01:11:14.800 --> 01:11:18.699
I typically just wear, I start just a new pair

01:11:18.699 --> 01:11:21.840
right before I start a comp and then just wear

01:11:21.840 --> 01:11:24.630
them out like in training sessions. But I have

01:11:24.630 --> 01:11:28.850
found exactly five sessions is the time that

01:11:28.850 --> 01:11:31.470
my shoes are perfect for comps. Because they're

01:11:31.470 --> 01:11:36.989
just, you know, the Scarpa, the Dragos. So they

01:11:36.989 --> 01:11:39.489
get super soft. And so they need to be, like,

01:11:39.489 --> 01:11:42.130
just stiff enough. We do the same thing of, like,

01:11:42.149 --> 01:11:47.069
about a week before a comp, I'll break in, like,

01:11:47.170 --> 01:11:50.750
just, like, a few sessions. New shoes, like,

01:11:50.770 --> 01:11:53.779
10 days before. And it kind of becomes a problem.

01:11:53.819 --> 01:11:56.619
Like I realized during the full World Cup circuit,

01:11:56.779 --> 01:11:59.659
I had to keep breaking in shoes. Oh, wow. You

01:11:59.659 --> 01:12:02.420
did a new one for every World Cup? I think, well,

01:12:02.539 --> 01:12:04.760
they were close enough together, most of them,

01:12:04.819 --> 01:12:08.979
that I think I like, I didn't need a new pair

01:12:08.979 --> 01:12:12.060
every time. But it was enough to where like I

01:12:12.060 --> 01:12:14.420
now have like my bag is just like full of shoes

01:12:14.420 --> 01:12:16.890
that I just have to like, that are like. a week

01:12:16.890 --> 01:12:19.930
worn in should i gonna keep working through to

01:12:19.930 --> 01:12:22.909
get through them but i also like i wear them

01:12:22.909 --> 01:12:26.409
till like they start um like until they get a

01:12:26.409 --> 01:12:30.550
little hole or they start collapsing um and then

01:12:30.550 --> 01:12:32.989
i i get to like get rid of them earlier because

01:12:32.989 --> 01:12:36.149
my mom has the same size sheet as me and so i

01:12:36.149 --> 01:12:38.449
give them to her and says she'll wear them fully

01:12:38.449 --> 01:12:41.670
too so i get to have my shoes all the time and

01:12:41.670 --> 01:12:45.689
she's shocked because she cheated yeah Couldn't

01:12:45.689 --> 01:12:49.310
you just, like, wear through one pair and then

01:12:49.310 --> 01:12:52.869
keep that, like, slightly worn pair for comps

01:12:52.869 --> 01:12:56.109
only? Yeah, but I have, like, mental attachment

01:12:56.109 --> 01:12:59.090
to my shoes. And so I'm, like, I need them to

01:12:59.090 --> 01:13:01.029
be, like, the shoes that I climbed in the session

01:13:01.029 --> 01:13:04.329
before. And, like, I got used to them. So, like,

01:13:04.390 --> 01:13:06.649
have sweaty feet. So I need them. I'm used to

01:13:06.649 --> 01:13:11.890
climbing in, like, kind of wet shoes. And so

01:13:11.890 --> 01:13:15.279
once you, like, don't wear shoes for, like, a

01:13:15.279 --> 01:13:17.960
few days they get like hard yeah that's true

01:13:17.960 --> 01:13:19.800
and so i have to be in the same shoes because

01:13:19.800 --> 01:13:21.420
they have to have the right amount of moisture

01:13:21.420 --> 01:13:24.699
i probably also like tend to oxidize slightly

01:13:24.699 --> 01:13:28.420
yeah and so like ruins your your trust with your

01:13:28.420 --> 01:13:31.319
shoes yeah that is true it's like the rubber

01:13:31.319 --> 01:13:33.920
gets worse you gotta like get rid of that first

01:13:33.920 --> 01:13:37.119
layer or something okay um next one from instagram

01:13:37.119 --> 01:13:40.119
ellie joy climbs uh what is your favorite style

01:13:40.119 --> 01:13:43.979
of climb i love like swinging climbs i think

01:13:43.979 --> 01:13:47.020
that's so fun Well, I thought you were going

01:13:47.020 --> 01:13:49.460
to say slab, so it was actually. Well, that's

01:13:49.460 --> 01:13:53.060
like the other thing is I think I love slab because

01:13:53.060 --> 01:13:58.359
of like it's so like mental. Like I can think

01:13:58.359 --> 01:14:02.399
about like things and I feel like I really enjoy

01:14:02.399 --> 01:14:04.539
the thinking part of slab and also just like

01:14:04.539 --> 01:14:07.560
the movement. But I like, you know, I just love

01:14:07.560 --> 01:14:10.680
to swing. I used to, me and my little friend

01:14:10.680 --> 01:14:12.380
went around a youth team when I was like eight

01:14:12.380 --> 01:14:15.399
years old. like exclusively the entire session

01:14:15.399 --> 01:14:18.100
would only dyno for like months straight and

01:14:18.100 --> 01:14:20.460
swing around. Like I really like coordination.

01:14:20.760 --> 01:14:25.180
I feel like I'm really scared on jumps, but any

01:14:25.180 --> 01:14:27.699
dynamic movement I get like really scared on.

01:14:27.859 --> 01:14:32.000
So this is going to make no sense. But like jumping

01:14:32.000 --> 01:14:36.239
on dual techs, I really cheat. Like I think it's

01:14:36.239 --> 01:14:39.079
fun. I'd be like dual techs. I think it's just

01:14:39.079 --> 01:14:42.210
like, or no techs. I think it's really. a fun

01:14:42.210 --> 01:14:44.590
style of climbing she's good at it is that i'm

01:14:44.590 --> 01:14:48.750
sitting absolutely like petrified of it so yeah

01:14:48.750 --> 01:14:51.750
it's a weird combo she's not being yeah she's

01:14:51.750 --> 01:14:54.069
figured out the technique of the no text hold

01:14:54.069 --> 01:14:56.289
it's like i don't get it i don't understand it

01:14:56.289 --> 01:14:59.310
yet what's the secret is it for like feet or

01:14:59.310 --> 01:15:05.029
hands or both well um i think standing on things

01:15:05.029 --> 01:15:08.210
quickly not like too violently but just putting

01:15:08.210 --> 01:15:11.539
your weight on the holds like very precisely

01:15:11.539 --> 01:15:16.340
and quick helps a lot there's like so many different

01:15:16.340 --> 01:15:19.199
things that help that we can really get into

01:15:19.199 --> 01:15:21.539
but we would be here for like an hour of just

01:15:21.539 --> 01:15:24.420
breaking it down like okay so then real quick

01:15:24.420 --> 01:15:26.359
that's the that's a foot thing what about like

01:15:26.359 --> 01:15:30.060
hands hands you have to there's different types

01:15:30.060 --> 01:15:34.140
of like notex and so like the the finish that

01:15:34.140 --> 01:15:38.550
they use some holds are better text yeah there's

01:15:38.550 --> 01:15:40.609
there's better no text that sticks better there's

01:15:40.609 --> 01:15:43.250
others in texas are way slipperier or slipperier

01:15:43.250 --> 01:15:46.789
um so you have to like kind of know the types

01:15:46.789 --> 01:15:49.750
of dual text and know how sticky you want your

01:15:49.750 --> 01:15:51.310
hands to be like how sweaty you want your hands

01:15:51.310 --> 01:15:53.850
to be so i'll have like a spray bottle that i

01:15:53.850 --> 01:15:57.630
like write my hands down sometimes but some holds

01:15:57.630 --> 01:16:00.750
or some types are better if your hands are like

01:16:00.750 --> 01:16:04.109
slightly chalky so you have to like figure out

01:16:04.750 --> 01:16:07.989
as what the hold demands, essentially. I would

01:16:07.989 --> 01:16:11.069
need to see more no -tex holds. I haven't really

01:16:11.069 --> 01:16:15.329
seen any no -tex holds at the gyms here. Yeah,

01:16:15.430 --> 01:16:17.609
they're slower to come into the gyms than I thought

01:16:17.609 --> 01:16:20.449
they would be. I end up climbing them because

01:16:20.449 --> 01:16:23.630
of the training center we climb at in California

01:16:23.630 --> 01:16:25.909
and also the Salt Lake Training Center. They

01:16:25.909 --> 01:16:29.029
have no -tex holds, so we climb quite a bit.

01:16:29.449 --> 01:16:32.310
Yeah, they're interesting. Develop a relationship

01:16:32.310 --> 01:16:36.239
with them. Okay, next one from Omar H5. Do you

01:16:36.239 --> 01:16:38.939
have outdoor rock projects? I haven't talked

01:16:38.939 --> 01:16:45.300
about outside at all. So honestly, I haven't

01:16:45.300 --> 01:16:49.699
spent that much time climbing outside. And I

01:16:49.699 --> 01:16:53.479
want to after I'm done comp climbing, because

01:16:53.479 --> 01:16:55.539
I really want to be able to travel and fully

01:16:55.539 --> 01:16:59.460
dedicate training to it. But I haven't had...

01:16:59.800 --> 01:17:02.380
Yeah, like I honestly have very little experience

01:17:02.380 --> 01:17:04.319
coming outside, so I don't have any projects.

01:17:04.659 --> 01:17:07.659
Same for you. Yeah, I have never really been

01:17:07.659 --> 01:17:09.220
outside. I've been outside like a few times.

01:17:09.880 --> 01:17:12.020
I think it'd be something I'd be good at. I could

01:17:12.020 --> 01:17:15.079
complement my style, but I don't really have

01:17:15.079 --> 01:17:19.560
a desire to go outside at all. So currently,

01:17:19.699 --> 01:17:23.020
no. That's fine. This is like the new generation

01:17:23.020 --> 01:17:25.939
of non -outside climbers. Okay, I don't know

01:17:25.939 --> 01:17:29.060
if it's not true. I want to. After I'm done competing,

01:17:29.380 --> 01:17:32.279
I want to be able, I like doing things with full

01:17:32.279 --> 01:17:35.439
focus. I don't like happening things. And so

01:17:35.439 --> 01:17:38.819
when I'm done comp climbing, I'm going to like,

01:17:38.859 --> 01:17:41.720
I want to travel and like, yeah, I think development

01:17:41.720 --> 01:17:43.640
is going to be super cool too. So neither of

01:17:43.640 --> 01:17:46.119
you have like gray chased outside at all? No.

01:17:46.460 --> 01:17:51.409
Actually, recently we went out. outside like

01:17:51.409 --> 01:17:53.750
a few months ago and it was like the first time

01:17:53.750 --> 01:17:56.609
in like two years and we both did our first 10

01:17:56.609 --> 01:18:02.010
within like a few tries and i was like yeah we

01:18:02.010 --> 01:18:04.390
could climb because i was curious how much how

01:18:04.390 --> 01:18:07.789
much we could climb outside yeah yeah where was

01:18:07.789 --> 01:18:10.829
it joshua tree it was good ego stroke or like

01:18:10.829 --> 01:18:15.010
we don't suck okay that's all i mean no i totally

01:18:15.010 --> 01:18:20.359
get that OK, good to know. Next one from Bryce

01:18:20.359 --> 01:18:23.000
Wayne. What effect does fan interaction have

01:18:23.000 --> 01:18:27.800
on your morale? So that's kind of new to me because

01:18:27.800 --> 01:18:33.760
of like I think I just haven't been like at that

01:18:33.760 --> 01:18:39.319
level of like known as a climber. And after Brazil,

01:18:39.439 --> 01:18:42.859
I had a lot more attention, which was really

01:18:42.859 --> 01:18:45.720
cool. And like everyone was so nice. And it was

01:18:45.720 --> 01:18:50.960
an insane life experience. But definitely, like,

01:18:51.060 --> 01:18:52.800
specifically for the Salt Lake World Cup, it

01:18:52.800 --> 01:18:55.399
was, like, a really hard mental thing for me.

01:18:55.439 --> 01:19:02.180
Because I think I got stuck in this, like, headspace

01:19:02.180 --> 01:19:05.779
of being, like, I need to, like, or people are

01:19:05.779 --> 01:19:09.539
going to expect me to do something that I can't

01:19:09.539 --> 01:19:12.180
do. Or they're going to think I'm this person

01:19:12.180 --> 01:19:16.500
and maybe I'm not. Just there was a lot more

01:19:16.500 --> 01:19:19.000
chatter in my brain of being like, what do people

01:19:19.000 --> 01:19:20.939
expect from me or what are people thinking about

01:19:20.939 --> 01:19:23.500
me that I just hadn't dealt with in a lot of

01:19:23.500 --> 01:19:26.239
years because of like, I think early teen years

01:19:26.239 --> 01:19:29.920
I had like struggled with that because of just

01:19:29.920 --> 01:19:32.220
like trying to figure myself out and like what

01:19:32.220 --> 01:19:34.340
that felt like in competition. And then like

01:19:34.340 --> 01:19:37.800
I said, I'm like low embarrassment threshold.

01:19:37.920 --> 01:19:41.699
Like I don't really think about that a ton. And

01:19:41.699 --> 01:19:43.260
so it was like the first time in a while where

01:19:43.260 --> 01:19:45.960
it was like really strong. And I had to, like,

01:19:46.279 --> 01:19:47.739
I had a lot of, like, really good conversations

01:19:47.739 --> 01:19:49.899
over that, like, period of being, like, okay,

01:19:49.960 --> 01:19:53.260
what do I care about in my climbing? And, like,

01:19:53.359 --> 01:19:56.760
also, what do I want to, like, show to other

01:19:56.760 --> 01:19:58.720
people? And I think at the end of the day, I

01:19:58.720 --> 01:20:01.380
was, like, okay, I just think authentic, whatever

01:20:01.380 --> 01:20:04.800
is happening is going to come off best and, like,

01:20:04.819 --> 01:20:10.739
yeah, also work best for me. But it was definitely,

01:20:10.760 --> 01:20:12.800
like, a weird thing that I'd never dealt with

01:20:12.800 --> 01:20:16.329
before. oh, people are looking or they feel like

01:20:16.329 --> 01:20:17.689
they're looking. I don't even know if they are

01:20:17.689 --> 01:20:19.930
or they feel like they're looking. What is that?

01:20:20.149 --> 01:20:22.710
Yeah, what does that mean for me? I would say

01:20:22.710 --> 01:20:25.770
I haven't had to deal with this really because

01:20:25.770 --> 01:20:29.569
I haven't had any interactions yet. So I think

01:20:29.569 --> 01:20:32.109
I'm at a different spot in my career. Most people,

01:20:32.289 --> 01:20:35.369
especially with Instagram, a few people with

01:20:35.369 --> 01:20:37.590
Instagram come over and recognize me or whatever

01:20:37.590 --> 01:20:40.729
in the gym, which was really cool. It's a really

01:20:40.729 --> 01:20:44.300
fun experience. It's fun to meet people. I would

01:20:44.300 --> 01:20:49.079
say I think it kind of bursts your bubble in

01:20:49.079 --> 01:20:52.439
a little bit in a way. Like that, like you have

01:20:52.439 --> 01:20:54.760
a sense of like anonymity or in the gym or whatever,

01:20:54.899 --> 01:20:57.560
like you're just kind of doing your thing. And

01:20:57.560 --> 01:20:59.539
like having people come over makes you kind of

01:20:59.539 --> 01:21:01.159
like realize you're like, oh, people are like

01:21:01.159 --> 01:21:06.779
me being stupid in the corner. So I think that

01:21:06.779 --> 01:21:09.039
makes it a little bit generally just being like

01:21:09.039 --> 01:21:11.779
in certain areas, being like a strong female

01:21:11.779 --> 01:21:15.350
climber. you just will get more attention in

01:21:15.350 --> 01:21:18.170
the gym. And I think, like, I've seen you over

01:21:18.170 --> 01:21:20.569
the last few years, like, figure out, like, oh,

01:21:20.609 --> 01:21:21.909
okay, how does that feel? Like, what does that

01:21:21.909 --> 01:21:25.529
look like for me? And be able to get over it,

01:21:25.550 --> 01:21:27.949
basically. Yeah, it's a little bit of pressure.

01:21:28.689 --> 01:21:31.850
Kind of the feeling that people know that you're,

01:21:31.850 --> 01:21:35.649
like, good, so if you can't do something, it's

01:21:35.649 --> 01:21:38.529
like... I don't know, like a competition opportunity.

01:21:39.189 --> 01:21:41.949
Yeah. No, I have this like weird thing that I've

01:21:41.949 --> 01:21:44.750
had since I was like little thing. Like I really

01:21:44.750 --> 01:21:48.470
want people to think like female climbers are

01:21:48.470 --> 01:21:51.529
like really impressive. And so whenever I'm like

01:21:51.529 --> 01:21:54.970
compared to like a male climber or like in an

01:21:54.970 --> 01:21:57.090
opportunity like that where it's like, oh, people

01:21:57.090 --> 01:21:59.359
are watching. and they know I have results or

01:21:59.359 --> 01:22:01.819
whatever, I'm like, okay, I need to represent

01:22:01.819 --> 01:22:04.479
like pretty good everything I can. Oh, yeah.

01:22:04.739 --> 01:22:06.399
People are clever, they're strong, and it's like

01:22:06.399 --> 01:22:11.439
so not realistic in the slightest. But I think

01:22:11.439 --> 01:22:13.539
that, especially when I was like her age, I was

01:22:13.539 --> 01:22:15.239
like, oh, I don't know how to deal with this.

01:22:15.380 --> 01:22:18.619
Yeah, I totally get that. It's like this feeling

01:22:18.619 --> 01:22:21.779
that you are representing like an entire body

01:22:21.779 --> 01:22:24.579
of people. Yeah. It's like a lot of pressure

01:22:24.579 --> 01:22:28.029
for no reason. Yeah. Just because people say

01:22:28.029 --> 01:22:30.130
the stupidest things. I think that's kind of

01:22:30.130 --> 01:22:31.909
probably what it brought up. Just hearing people

01:22:31.909 --> 01:22:34.909
be like, oh, female climbers are like pro climbers.

01:22:34.949 --> 01:22:36.329
Like, oh, I could beat them on this and that.

01:22:36.409 --> 01:22:39.829
And it's like, yeah. That's annoying. Okay. Next

01:22:39.829 --> 01:22:45.010
one. And then one more after that. ZYXWL2015

01:22:45.010 --> 01:22:48.909
asks, how does it work financially for you as

01:22:48.909 --> 01:22:54.289
a pro? I'm figuring it out. Yeah. It is really

01:22:54.289 --> 01:23:01.899
hard. I think. My mom is amazing. And she supports

01:23:01.899 --> 01:23:07.619
us through everything. Because, like, being in

01:23:07.619 --> 01:23:10.680
school and climbing, I can't work. Like, it wouldn't

01:23:10.680 --> 01:23:13.420
be possible for me to have a job. Without a serious,

01:23:13.539 --> 01:23:16.119
like, sacrifice on one of the ends. Yeah. Getting

01:23:16.119 --> 01:23:20.939
lost working. Yeah. And I'm, like, I'm graduating

01:23:20.939 --> 01:23:22.739
school soon. So I'm trying to figure out, like,

01:23:22.739 --> 01:23:25.869
what does that look like for me? And honestly,

01:23:26.010 --> 01:23:29.930
I'm trying to figure out the world of sponsorship

01:23:29.930 --> 01:23:33.630
and what that looks like and how to get that

01:23:33.630 --> 01:23:39.250
and how to manage it. And if I'm being completely

01:23:39.250 --> 01:23:44.489
honest, it's really confusing. And I know a lot

01:23:44.489 --> 01:23:48.149
of, I've talked to tons of other comp climbers

01:23:48.149 --> 01:23:50.109
or just climbers in general about this. It's

01:23:50.109 --> 01:23:53.619
just confusing and hard. I think there's been

01:23:53.619 --> 01:23:57.500
a lot of success for getting financial support.

01:23:57.699 --> 01:24:03.579
It helps a lot through USA Climbing. I got some

01:24:03.579 --> 01:24:05.279
funding for some of the World Cups, which was

01:24:05.279 --> 01:24:09.760
really helpful. Made a huge difference. But yeah,

01:24:09.880 --> 01:24:15.180
just generally, my mommy. It's definitely, the

01:24:15.180 --> 01:24:18.539
financial is insane. You have to have time left.

01:24:19.199 --> 01:24:23.100
It's just, yeah, it's a lot of money. It makes

01:24:23.100 --> 01:24:26.319
some serious financial, like, sacrifices to choose

01:24:26.319 --> 01:24:28.420
which one you're going to get. Yeah. I think

01:24:28.420 --> 01:24:33.180
we're very lucky to have, like, someone who,

01:24:33.279 --> 01:24:36.220
like my mom, who's just like, this is what we

01:24:36.220 --> 01:24:39.359
want to do. This is where we spend all our money.

01:24:40.279 --> 01:24:44.420
Not replacing our walls. And, yeah, like the

01:24:44.420 --> 01:24:46.579
U .S. doesn't really sponsor athletes in the

01:24:46.579 --> 01:24:49.140
same way that some other countries do. But it's

01:24:49.140 --> 01:24:52.760
good to hear that you... Got some from like USA

01:24:52.760 --> 01:24:55.239
Climbing for the World Cups. Yeah, it's beautiful.

01:24:55.600 --> 01:24:59.180
Was it like just enough to cover your like travel

01:24:59.180 --> 01:25:03.319
and like plane ticket, housing? It's kind of

01:25:03.319 --> 01:25:06.539
weird because of it depends on like not quite

01:25:06.539 --> 01:25:10.539
performance, but like sometimes they give it

01:25:10.539 --> 01:25:12.340
just a team and then sometimes it switches from

01:25:12.340 --> 01:25:14.539
the year and like there's all this like intricacy

01:25:14.539 --> 01:25:17.680
of like how they do funding. Like for some World

01:25:17.680 --> 01:25:19.760
Cups, everything was covered. And then other

01:25:19.760 --> 01:25:23.079
World Cups, nothing was recovered. And so it's

01:25:23.079 --> 01:25:25.840
like all over the board. Like, yeah. Well, good

01:25:25.840 --> 01:25:28.460
luck to you there. Someone sponsor me. Yeah,

01:25:28.500 --> 01:25:33.960
please. Okay, last one. Not as serious of a question

01:25:33.960 --> 01:25:37.460
from I'm Ken Lin. Does Sovarae always get the

01:25:37.460 --> 01:25:44.760
middle seat when traveling? Yes. 100 % yes. No,

01:25:44.779 --> 01:25:46.760
it's actually how your mom does. Yeah, my mom.

01:25:47.140 --> 01:25:50.640
She, Nikaya, is like a very touchy person. So

01:25:50.640 --> 01:25:53.380
she'll fall asleep on you, like no matter what.

01:25:53.899 --> 01:25:56.199
So I don't really like having the middle seat

01:25:56.199 --> 01:25:58.800
because that means that she's sleeping on top

01:25:58.800 --> 01:26:02.079
of me the entire plane ride. And sometimes I'll

01:26:02.079 --> 01:26:04.680
make her sit in the middle or my mom's in the

01:26:04.680 --> 01:26:06.720
middle. But yes, typically it is me in the middle

01:26:06.720 --> 01:26:10.399
seat for sure. She's tiny. She's 14. And like

01:26:10.399 --> 01:26:13.119
this wide. She's fine. She can be in the middle

01:26:13.119 --> 01:26:15.520
seat. Yeah, I think that's probably also why

01:26:15.520 --> 01:26:19.140
people don't know that you guys are like sisters

01:26:19.140 --> 01:26:22.840
because you're very different sizes. Well, kind

01:26:22.840 --> 01:26:26.239
of. She's like, I'm 5 '2", but I'm built more

01:26:26.239 --> 01:26:30.060
like this. She's like a little tiny person, you

01:26:30.060 --> 01:26:33.579
know? Wait, how tall are you? Me? Yeah. I'm 4

01:26:33.579 --> 01:26:37.000
'10 and a half. Actually? Yes. I just mentioned

01:26:37.000 --> 01:26:40.199
myself. Wait, I don't remember that at all. Okay.

01:26:40.680 --> 01:26:44.600
Small people come from a small family. How often

01:26:44.600 --> 01:26:47.600
do you find that that makes climbs more difficult

01:26:47.600 --> 01:26:50.680
for you in the comp scene? It has a huge impact.

01:26:51.079 --> 01:26:54.460
I think it makes things, typically it's not as

01:26:54.460 --> 01:26:57.159
black or white. Like you can't do the move because

01:26:57.159 --> 01:26:59.720
you're short or whatever. I just find that it

01:26:59.720 --> 01:27:02.619
makes it more difficult a lot of the time, especially

01:27:02.619 --> 01:27:05.380
coordination wise. Like, moves are just going

01:27:05.380 --> 01:27:08.239
to be harder if you're tall because you have

01:27:08.239 --> 01:27:11.619
much more time in the move to, like, find the

01:27:11.619 --> 01:27:15.899
technique. Like, I have to have more power and

01:27:15.899 --> 01:27:19.119
it's a quicker move for me to get the jump, if

01:27:19.119 --> 01:27:22.060
that makes sense. My mom always tells me, she's

01:27:22.060 --> 01:27:25.840
like, my comp road or whatever is going to be

01:27:25.840 --> 01:27:28.800
much more, like, up and down. I'm going to have

01:27:28.800 --> 01:27:31.239
much more big upsets and stuff just because there's

01:27:31.239 --> 01:27:34.829
going to be... inequality in the setting i think

01:27:34.829 --> 01:27:38.489
frankly an impossible job in many like circumstances

01:27:38.489 --> 01:27:42.390
to set completely even i think just some of the

01:27:42.390 --> 01:27:45.470
consistency is harder just like there's a just

01:27:45.470 --> 01:27:47.930
can't be a move where it just doesn't work as

01:27:47.930 --> 01:27:50.770
well or it was heinous yeah it's just also so

01:27:50.770 --> 01:27:53.489
hard to spot whether a move is like think of

01:27:53.489 --> 01:27:56.430
all the setters are like 510 like it's just going

01:27:56.430 --> 01:28:00.659
to be harder to spot if moves are in unfair But

01:28:00.659 --> 01:28:03.560
yeah, like in gyms, I notice it being a problem

01:28:03.560 --> 01:28:06.479
significantly more. Wow. Yeah, I really didn't

01:28:06.479 --> 01:28:09.220
realize you were that short. Usually when I meet

01:28:09.220 --> 01:28:11.199
people who are like under five feet, it like

01:28:11.199 --> 01:28:13.800
really stands out to me. And I guess that didn't

01:28:13.800 --> 01:28:18.079
stand out to me. So maybe of tall energy. I don't

01:28:18.079 --> 01:28:20.619
like being short at all. So it's a good thing

01:28:20.619 --> 01:28:24.659
to hear. Look, always guess that like, like they'll

01:28:24.659 --> 01:28:27.399
guess that she's like five foot and then I'm

01:28:27.399 --> 01:28:31.770
five six. and faster those heights no that seems

01:28:31.770 --> 01:28:35.250
like I get that like you give off five six and

01:28:35.250 --> 01:28:42.710
five foot energy thank you I'm not yeah maybe

01:28:42.710 --> 01:28:45.890
that's why I think that helps okay well that's

01:28:45.890 --> 01:28:47.869
all the questions I had then thanks for joining

01:28:47.869 --> 01:28:51.069
me today um any like last minute thoughts or

01:28:51.069 --> 01:28:54.609
words of wisdom there's something really interesting

01:28:54.609 --> 01:29:01.590
about like um being siblings in and having like

01:29:01.590 --> 01:29:03.930
something that's like a shared interest. Um,

01:29:04.109 --> 01:29:07.069
like I think we are the extreme of that, of being

01:29:07.069 --> 01:29:10.449
like having dedicated everything. But I think

01:29:10.449 --> 01:29:13.909
my family in general has really been like able

01:29:13.909 --> 01:29:16.409
to stay much, much closer because of climbing,

01:29:16.510 --> 01:29:20.130
like my mom climbs and all my siblings climb.

01:29:20.409 --> 01:29:23.869
And I think that's why I get so like, obviously

01:29:23.869 --> 01:29:25.949
I'm excited about climbing for so many different

01:29:25.949 --> 01:29:30.260
reasons. But I always, like, I really hope for,

01:29:30.300 --> 01:29:33.079
like, in my future, like, when I have a family,

01:29:33.119 --> 01:29:36.319
like, I can climb all together with my whatever.

01:29:38.039 --> 01:29:40.300
But I would really encourage, like, families

01:29:40.300 --> 01:29:42.859
to, like, go climb together because there's a

01:29:42.859 --> 01:29:46.220
type of side -by -side play that you can't get

01:29:46.220 --> 01:29:47.819
in a lot of other places where it doesn't matter

01:29:47.819 --> 01:29:52.159
what you're doing. And it just adds a place of

01:29:52.159 --> 01:29:55.310
commonality. That's really cool. Awesome. Okay,

01:29:55.310 --> 01:29:58.050
well, thank you for answering those questions.

01:29:58.149 --> 01:29:59.710
Do you want to let people know where they can

01:29:59.710 --> 01:30:03.970
find you and for sponsorships? Oh, yeah. So my

01:30:03.970 --> 01:30:13.109
email is... No, my Instagram is nekaia .sanders.

01:30:14.289 --> 01:30:17.010
And then my Instagram is sovrae, so it's just

01:30:17.010 --> 01:30:21.229
S -O -V -A -R -A -E. And then that's it. Awesome.

01:30:21.329 --> 01:30:23.210
I will add the links to those in the description.

01:30:23.949 --> 01:30:25.869
Thank you again. It was amazing to talk to you

01:30:25.869 --> 01:30:29.109
guys. Thank you for having us. Thank you so much

01:30:29.109 --> 01:30:31.550
for making it to the end of the podcast. Don't

01:30:31.550 --> 01:30:33.590
forget to like and subscribe if you enjoyed.

01:30:33.810 --> 01:30:37.430
Otherwise, you are a super fake climber. If you're

01:30:37.430 --> 01:30:39.869
listening on a podcasting platform, I'd appreciate

01:30:39.869 --> 01:30:42.590
if you rate it five stars and you can continue

01:30:42.590 --> 01:30:45.390
the discussion on the free competition climbing

01:30:45.390 --> 01:30:48.369
discord linked in the description. Thanks again

01:30:48.369 --> 01:30:49.550
for listening. Thank you.