1 00:00:00,000 --> 00:00:06,340 Yeah, after China I definitely get a lot of pressure. 2 00:00:06,340 --> 00:00:10,960 Because I kind of saw what was possible and... 3 00:00:10,960 --> 00:00:16,740 Weeks or months where nothing is going in the right direction and you kind of get weaker 4 00:00:16,740 --> 00:00:21,940 and weaker and don't really know what is going wrong. 5 00:00:21,940 --> 00:00:29,680 I think the weirdest part was that I was climbing next to Janja and she's one of my role models 6 00:00:29,680 --> 00:00:35,080 and yeah, complete idol. 7 00:00:35,080 --> 00:00:43,160 We are having stricture BMI rules here in Germany than the IFSC. 8 00:00:43,160 --> 00:00:47,040 Welcome to another episode of the That's Not World Climbing podcast. 9 00:00:47,040 --> 00:00:52,000 I'm your host Jinni and I'm excited to introduce my guest for today, Anna Apel. 10 00:00:52,000 --> 00:00:55,880 Anna is a boulder and lead climber from Team Germany and one of the younger athletes I've 11 00:00:55,880 --> 00:01:00,840 interviewed so far as she still competed in Youth World Champs last year. 12 00:01:00,840 --> 00:01:05,120 In this episode we'll talk about the differences between the youth and senior circuit, the 13 00:01:05,120 --> 00:01:10,720 pressure of expectations after flashing all qualies boulders in Innsbruck, and we get 14 00:01:10,720 --> 00:01:14,040 some insight into Team Germany and BMI testing. 15 00:01:14,040 --> 00:01:25,120 I hope you enjoy this episode with Anna. 16 00:01:25,120 --> 00:01:28,960 Real quick, I'm excited to announce my new sponsor helping make this podcast episode 17 00:01:28,960 --> 00:01:31,120 possible, Mad Rock Climbing. 18 00:01:31,120 --> 00:01:36,000 I got fitted with their brand new line of high performance shoes, the D2.1s. 19 00:01:36,000 --> 00:01:39,760 They just came out December 6th, but you might notice a few of your favorite gum climbers 20 00:01:39,760 --> 00:01:46,260 are already wearing them like Oscar Boudrand from Team Canada and also me. 21 00:01:46,260 --> 00:01:49,760 This is the first time I've gotten to wear their shoes for an extended period of time 22 00:01:49,760 --> 00:01:54,120 and I'm actually super impressed with the grip of their in-house rubber and of course 23 00:01:54,120 --> 00:01:59,400 the famous drone heel that everyone says is the cheat code to heel hooking small edges. 24 00:01:59,400 --> 00:02:03,400 Feel free to message me if you have any questions about the shoes or sizing and you can use 25 00:02:03,400 --> 00:02:09,040 the discount code notrealclimber for 10% off your entire Mad Rock order. 26 00:02:09,040 --> 00:02:11,160 Info will be in the description. 27 00:02:11,160 --> 00:02:12,160 Back to the show. 28 00:02:12,160 --> 00:02:13,160 How are you doing today? 29 00:02:13,160 --> 00:02:14,160 Good. 30 00:02:14,160 --> 00:02:18,080 I had a rest day today, so it was a very chill day. 31 00:02:18,080 --> 00:02:22,720 It was very snowy in Munich today, but yeah, nice day. 32 00:02:22,720 --> 00:02:24,480 Do you like the snow or no? 33 00:02:24,480 --> 00:02:30,600 I like the snow, but it was a lot of traffic on the road, so that was a bit problematic. 34 00:02:30,600 --> 00:02:32,880 Yeah, I do not miss the snow. 35 00:02:32,880 --> 00:02:39,320 I moved away from that a while ago and I'm happy to not experience it anymore. 36 00:02:39,320 --> 00:02:43,120 Yeah, so you're just spending time at home in Germany? 37 00:02:43,120 --> 00:02:49,920 Yeah, currently we're like in our training, just doing our normal training in our training 38 00:02:49,920 --> 00:02:50,920 center. 39 00:02:50,920 --> 00:02:54,720 So here in Munich and in Augsburg. 40 00:02:54,720 --> 00:02:58,760 Yeah, so right in the depths of winter training. 41 00:02:58,760 --> 00:03:04,280 Do you spend a lot of time traveling during the winter season or is that just reserved 42 00:03:04,280 --> 00:03:07,240 for when it's World Cups? 43 00:03:07,240 --> 00:03:12,440 Currently I'm more or less all the time in Munich. 44 00:03:12,440 --> 00:03:21,000 Sometimes I'm traveling to Innsbruck or also to Bricsen or Brunach just to see some other 45 00:03:21,000 --> 00:03:24,440 settings and other gyms. 46 00:03:24,440 --> 00:03:33,040 But the main traveling will be during the World Cup scene and all the comps. 47 00:03:33,040 --> 00:03:39,360 Do you find it helps to just stay in one place during your big winter training season? 48 00:03:39,360 --> 00:03:42,040 It helps you stay focused or something like that? 49 00:03:42,040 --> 00:03:48,560 Yeah, because here is like my training days and the people I know and my coach and it 50 00:03:48,560 --> 00:03:51,080 makes it a bit more simple for me. 51 00:03:51,080 --> 00:03:53,800 Cool, so let's get right into it. 52 00:03:53,800 --> 00:03:56,920 When did you start climbing and then competing? 53 00:03:56,920 --> 00:03:59,080 I started climbing very early. 54 00:03:59,080 --> 00:04:08,560 So at the age of three, my parents took me to the rock and yeah, I kind of started to 55 00:04:08,560 --> 00:04:19,920 get in touch with climbing and climb my first routes and also had a lot of fun doing that. 56 00:04:19,920 --> 00:04:24,080 Do you actually remember climbing when you're like three years old? 57 00:04:24,080 --> 00:04:29,040 No, I can't remember climbing. 58 00:04:29,040 --> 00:04:31,560 I know what my first route was. 59 00:04:31,560 --> 00:04:38,480 It was called Binna Maja and I got my first climbing shoes because I topped the route, 60 00:04:38,480 --> 00:04:41,480 but I don't really know how I felt. 61 00:04:41,480 --> 00:04:50,000 I just know from like tellings and stories that I really liked it to be outside and climb. 62 00:04:50,000 --> 00:04:58,480 And then I also started competing here in Munich on like smaller comps and I was not 63 00:04:58,480 --> 00:05:05,560 immediately on the top, so I needed some time. 64 00:05:05,560 --> 00:05:11,800 And yeah, then from time to time and more comps, I also got better. 65 00:05:11,800 --> 00:05:17,840 And yeah, I always enjoyed climbing and training. 66 00:05:17,840 --> 00:05:24,960 So that was kind of what kept me on the comp climbing. 67 00:05:24,960 --> 00:05:27,680 How old were you when you started doing competitions? 68 00:05:27,680 --> 00:05:31,600 I think I was about like six or seven years old. 69 00:05:31,600 --> 00:05:33,640 Oh, that's super young. 70 00:05:33,640 --> 00:05:34,640 Wow. 71 00:05:34,640 --> 00:05:35,640 Yeah. 72 00:05:35,640 --> 00:05:38,320 And then those were more fun comps. 73 00:05:38,320 --> 00:05:48,800 Then from the age 10 on, I started to compete in like the Bavarian scene and then on the 74 00:05:48,800 --> 00:05:55,240 national scene and yeah, then also some international comps. 75 00:05:55,240 --> 00:06:01,840 Do you remember like, did you feel pressure when you were doing even like the fun competitions 76 00:06:01,840 --> 00:06:02,840 or? 77 00:06:02,840 --> 00:06:08,320 No, I think there was never a lot of pressure on me also. 78 00:06:08,320 --> 00:06:17,840 My parents never told me to get like any specific results and I was always happy when I got, 79 00:06:17,840 --> 00:06:25,600 for example, into finals because I was always kind of a person who wanted to be on the big 80 00:06:25,600 --> 00:06:32,040 stage and I really enjoyed, for example, the presentation for finals. 81 00:06:32,040 --> 00:06:41,240 So that was kind of my goal to be like in the spotlight, but I never put me under pressure 82 00:06:41,240 --> 00:06:52,920 to get like completely specific results during like the early start of my career. 83 00:06:52,920 --> 00:06:59,920 And of course, from time to time and from, yeah, also with better results, the pressure 84 00:06:59,920 --> 00:07:09,120 got bigger and a lot of people also kind of put pressure on me, but I always try to like 85 00:07:09,120 --> 00:07:17,720 stay in my bubble and still enjoy the training and climbing process more than just putting 86 00:07:17,720 --> 00:07:22,160 myself under pressure to get good results. 87 00:07:22,160 --> 00:07:25,880 And since you started so early, did your parents also climb? 88 00:07:25,880 --> 00:07:26,880 Yeah. 89 00:07:26,880 --> 00:07:32,940 So my parents also climb and that's why they took me to the rock. 90 00:07:32,940 --> 00:07:33,940 Just outdoor? 91 00:07:33,940 --> 00:07:35,560 Did they also compete and stuff too? 92 00:07:35,560 --> 00:07:36,560 No, no. 93 00:07:36,560 --> 00:07:41,560 They just climbed for fun and still do it for fun. 94 00:07:41,560 --> 00:07:46,680 And my brother is also still climbing, but no comps. 95 00:07:46,680 --> 00:07:49,680 Do you feel like you're generally a very competitive person? 96 00:07:49,680 --> 00:07:53,280 Is that why or what like draws you specifically to competing? 97 00:07:53,280 --> 00:07:54,280 Yeah, for sure. 98 00:07:54,280 --> 00:08:02,040 I'm a very like, I'm a competitive person and also compare myself to a lot of other 99 00:08:02,040 --> 00:08:10,760 people also in like other areas, not just in climbing. 100 00:08:10,760 --> 00:08:18,920 And I also always strive to like get the best version out of me. 101 00:08:18,920 --> 00:08:19,920 Yeah. 102 00:08:19,920 --> 00:08:24,880 So you're definitely one of like the younger athletes that I've interviewed so far and 103 00:08:24,880 --> 00:08:28,960 you're still competing in the youth circuit right now? 104 00:08:28,960 --> 00:08:38,560 Last year I still competed in the youth circuit, also climbed on Youth Worlds, but in this season 105 00:08:38,560 --> 00:08:44,080 I won't be competing in the youths anymore. 106 00:08:44,080 --> 00:08:45,080 I'm too old. 107 00:08:45,080 --> 00:08:49,800 Okay, yeah, I guess you're just on the cusp of aging out of it. 108 00:08:49,800 --> 00:08:54,440 So like last year you were still competing in the youth circuit, but you were also doing 109 00:08:54,440 --> 00:08:56,120 the senior circuit as well. 110 00:08:56,120 --> 00:08:58,680 Why did you decide to compete in both? 111 00:08:58,680 --> 00:09:00,440 It doesn't seem like a lot of people do that. 112 00:09:00,440 --> 00:09:05,080 They kind of just like graduate from one to the other and then they don't go back to youth. 113 00:09:05,080 --> 00:09:08,840 It was not really like a decision I made. 114 00:09:08,840 --> 00:09:12,480 It just came like that. 115 00:09:12,480 --> 00:09:19,040 I also competed in World Cups already, I think three years ago. 116 00:09:19,040 --> 00:09:31,560 But at that time I don't know, placed 16th or yeah, just not near the semis. 117 00:09:31,560 --> 00:09:39,920 And then like over the last two years I competed on some World Cups, but just on the ones here 118 00:09:39,920 --> 00:09:41,920 in Europe. 119 00:09:41,920 --> 00:09:53,280 And yeah, then just last year I started to climb more on the World Cups and in the senior 120 00:09:53,280 --> 00:10:01,040 scene because I got stronger and saw that there's potential that I could climb into 121 00:10:01,040 --> 00:10:04,040 semis or even finals. 122 00:10:04,040 --> 00:10:11,840 And that's why the German coaches decided that I can start on World Cups as well. 123 00:10:11,840 --> 00:10:14,800 As well as in the youth scene. 124 00:10:14,800 --> 00:10:19,240 But they still wanted you to participate in the youth competitions? 125 00:10:19,240 --> 00:10:24,360 No, I wanted to compete in the youth competitions. 126 00:10:24,360 --> 00:10:33,440 I also just won European Cup and the Youth World Championships because I wanted to compete 127 00:10:33,440 --> 00:10:36,480 in my last Youth World Championships. 128 00:10:36,480 --> 00:10:42,840 That was just my decision because I wanted to go there. 129 00:10:42,840 --> 00:10:49,000 Like the location specifically or did you want to, like were you hoping for a specific 130 00:10:49,000 --> 00:10:50,000 result? 131 00:10:50,000 --> 00:10:55,640 Yeah, I was definitely hoping for a specific result. 132 00:10:55,640 --> 00:11:01,240 And yeah, my chances were also very good. 133 00:11:01,240 --> 00:11:12,000 And I feel like in the youth circuit, I mean, I know all the girls who climb there and yeah, 134 00:11:12,000 --> 00:11:15,240 it was just a nice comp, I would say. 135 00:11:15,240 --> 00:11:19,680 And also a comp where I could just kind of enjoy climbing. 136 00:11:19,680 --> 00:11:22,560 Yeah, how did it end up going? 137 00:11:22,560 --> 00:11:23,600 Was it a good time? 138 00:11:23,600 --> 00:11:28,720 Was it everything you hoped for your last Youth World Championships? 139 00:11:28,720 --> 00:11:31,360 Unfortunately not. 140 00:11:31,360 --> 00:11:41,600 I messed up lead climbing in semifinals because just of a stupid mistake. 141 00:11:41,600 --> 00:11:52,080 And in bouldering, I was feeling strong until finals and then in finals, I felt super weak. 142 00:11:52,080 --> 00:12:00,080 And after the third problem, I just couldn't get something out of my body anymore. 143 00:12:00,080 --> 00:12:02,440 And then I placed third. 144 00:12:02,440 --> 00:12:09,720 So it was a good result and I wanted to have a medal, but it was not the color of the medal 145 00:12:09,720 --> 00:12:11,720 I was aiming for. 146 00:12:11,720 --> 00:12:12,720 Sure. 147 00:12:12,720 --> 00:12:15,960 I mean, yeah, that's not bad at all though. 148 00:12:15,960 --> 00:12:22,360 In terms of, is there like monetary prizes for the youth circuit as well? 149 00:12:22,360 --> 00:12:24,560 No, no, no. 150 00:12:24,560 --> 00:12:29,160 So it's just for bragging rights. 151 00:12:29,160 --> 00:12:33,800 And so then how does the youth circuit compare to the senior circuit? 152 00:12:33,800 --> 00:12:40,280 Do you feel like the competition is just as strong in youth or is it easier? 153 00:12:40,280 --> 00:12:46,640 So of course the setting is kind of different. 154 00:12:46,640 --> 00:12:57,680 Often in the youth circuit, the boulders are set differently than in the world cup circuit. 155 00:12:57,680 --> 00:13:02,200 Can you sort of articulate what the differences are? 156 00:13:02,200 --> 00:13:05,000 I don't know. 157 00:13:05,000 --> 00:13:08,680 It's just kind of a different style sometimes. 158 00:13:08,680 --> 00:13:18,120 And in the bouldering world cup, for example, the qualification, the boulders are often 159 00:13:18,120 --> 00:13:24,400 kind of straight ups because of the like not that much space. 160 00:13:24,400 --> 00:13:35,480 And in the youth circuit, often they are more like coordination boulders or yeah, a bit 161 00:13:35,480 --> 00:13:40,240 more variety maybe. 162 00:13:40,240 --> 00:13:47,440 And last year I didn't have that much crush on the youth circuit because I knew that I 163 00:13:47,440 --> 00:13:49,440 was one of the stronger girls. 164 00:13:49,440 --> 00:13:55,160 So it was maybe a bit easier for me, for example, to win. 165 00:13:55,160 --> 00:14:02,520 But of course there are also more expectations when you're kind of the strongest. 166 00:14:02,520 --> 00:14:06,920 So the people also expected from me that I would win. 167 00:14:06,920 --> 00:14:14,760 And when I'm going to a world cup, the people more likely don't expect me to win the world 168 00:14:14,760 --> 00:14:15,760 cup. 169 00:14:15,760 --> 00:14:21,640 Of course, I'm also aiming for a very good result on a world cup and want to climb into 170 00:14:21,640 --> 00:14:24,200 finals. 171 00:14:24,200 --> 00:14:32,960 But if I miss finals or even the semifinals, not everybody will look at me and say, what 172 00:14:32,960 --> 00:14:34,040 did you do? 173 00:14:34,040 --> 00:14:41,320 Because I'm still young enough and there will still be a lot of chances for me in the 174 00:14:41,320 --> 00:14:42,840 world cup scene. 175 00:14:42,840 --> 00:14:49,160 Yeah, you also did a couple of senior comps in 2023. 176 00:14:49,160 --> 00:14:53,400 But the results were definitely not as good as your 2024 season. 177 00:14:53,400 --> 00:14:56,800 What do you feel like changed for you between those two years? 178 00:14:56,800 --> 00:15:01,880 That's an interesting question because I don't really know. 179 00:15:01,880 --> 00:15:13,640 So of course, I graduated in 2023 and then I kind of had more free time and more time 180 00:15:13,640 --> 00:15:16,000 to train. 181 00:15:16,000 --> 00:15:20,120 And the time I had, I think I trained a lot. 182 00:15:20,120 --> 00:15:30,560 So from 2003 to 2024, I started to make more double sessions. 183 00:15:30,560 --> 00:15:38,040 And I don't know, I think I kind of doubled my training pencil. 184 00:15:38,040 --> 00:15:44,720 And I think that was one of the main reasons why I just got stronger. 185 00:15:44,720 --> 00:15:55,360 Yeah, and I really, really tried hard because I knew that when I give everything in that 186 00:15:55,360 --> 00:15:59,160 year, I can also get very far. 187 00:15:59,160 --> 00:16:04,640 And then I already saw at the nomination comps that I'm like one of the stronger girls. 188 00:16:04,640 --> 00:16:11,160 We also had some simulations with the Slovenians and the Austrians. 189 00:16:11,160 --> 00:16:18,760 And I was kind of shocked because I saw, oh my gosh, I can really, I can climb very good. 190 00:16:18,760 --> 00:16:29,600 And then when the first World Cup came up in China, my only goal was to make my first 191 00:16:29,600 --> 00:16:32,360 World Cup top. 192 00:16:32,360 --> 00:16:38,780 And yeah, then I did my first World Cup top and then I told myself I want to get into 193 00:16:38,780 --> 00:16:44,760 my first semifinal and then I was super happy to get into my first semifinal. 194 00:16:44,760 --> 00:16:53,840 And yeah, I think this comp kind of showed me that I really grew into that World Cup 195 00:16:53,840 --> 00:16:54,840 scene. 196 00:16:54,840 --> 00:16:59,920 Like from over the years, I gained more experience. 197 00:16:59,920 --> 00:17:07,400 And yeah, in the last year, I could kind of show that I'm already having some experience 198 00:17:07,400 --> 00:17:14,280 and because of the training, I got stronger and then I could also just bring it to the 199 00:17:14,280 --> 00:17:15,280 wall. 200 00:17:15,280 --> 00:17:16,280 Yeah. 201 00:17:16,280 --> 00:17:19,520 Was your first semis also in China, like where you got the first top? 202 00:17:19,520 --> 00:17:20,520 Yeah. 203 00:17:20,520 --> 00:17:21,520 Okay. 204 00:17:21,520 --> 00:17:22,520 Yeah. 205 00:17:22,520 --> 00:17:23,520 Awesome. 206 00:17:23,520 --> 00:17:25,080 So you like greatly exceeded your expectations for that competition. 207 00:17:25,080 --> 00:17:32,960 I guess after that moment, did you kind of feel like pressure start to come in now that 208 00:17:32,960 --> 00:17:38,920 you've kind of exceeded your expectations and you want to recreate that kind of moment? 209 00:17:38,920 --> 00:17:39,920 Yeah. 210 00:17:39,920 --> 00:17:54,480 After China, I definitely get a lot of pressure because I kind of saw what was possible and 211 00:17:54,480 --> 00:17:58,080 that it could even be possible to climb into finals. 212 00:17:58,080 --> 00:18:05,120 And then I thought I also have to climb into semis in Salt Lake. 213 00:18:05,120 --> 00:18:10,120 And then I kind of got sick in Salt Lake and nothing really worked out. 214 00:18:10,120 --> 00:18:13,080 And it was just not my comp. 215 00:18:13,080 --> 00:18:21,360 And then I placed I think 24th or 25th, 5th, I'm not sure, but I was out of semis and it 216 00:18:21,360 --> 00:18:25,680 was very, very hard for me. 217 00:18:25,680 --> 00:18:30,880 But then I kind of told myself, okay, it's a world cup. 218 00:18:30,880 --> 00:18:39,000 It's not just small competition where you just climb into semis like easy peasy. 219 00:18:39,000 --> 00:18:41,400 I mean, if you're also sick, like... 220 00:18:41,400 --> 00:18:44,080 Yeah, yeah, for sure. 221 00:18:44,080 --> 00:18:51,040 And then the pressure kind of fell off because then I saw, okay, you can climb into semis, 222 00:18:51,040 --> 00:18:54,840 but you don't have to get into semis. 223 00:18:54,840 --> 00:19:00,040 It's the goal, but it's not kind of my duty. 224 00:19:00,040 --> 00:19:10,480 And then in Innsbruck, I could just climb how I wanted and yeah, was completely free 225 00:19:10,480 --> 00:19:11,480 in my mind. 226 00:19:11,480 --> 00:19:20,240 And I think I had the best mindset I ever had in my whole comp career in Innsbruck because 227 00:19:20,240 --> 00:19:23,720 I didn't have to overthink anything. 228 00:19:23,720 --> 00:19:31,720 I was just warming up before a normal training session and told my coach I just want to have 229 00:19:31,720 --> 00:19:36,320 fun in the mats and that was also what I did. 230 00:19:36,320 --> 00:19:41,480 Yeah, I think you mentioned that that was maybe the best moment of your climbing career 231 00:19:41,480 --> 00:19:42,480 so far. 232 00:19:42,480 --> 00:19:43,480 Yeah. 233 00:19:43,480 --> 00:19:48,000 Did you say that you flashed all the quali boulders in Innsbruck? 234 00:19:48,000 --> 00:19:49,000 Yeah. 235 00:19:49,000 --> 00:19:59,400 I flashed all of them and I looked at my coach and was like, am I dreaming or what is going 236 00:19:59,400 --> 00:20:00,960 wrong here? 237 00:20:00,960 --> 00:20:01,960 Yeah. 238 00:20:01,960 --> 00:20:04,400 What was your coach's reaction? 239 00:20:04,400 --> 00:20:05,400 I don't know. 240 00:20:05,400 --> 00:20:10,080 I think they just looked at me and were screaming and were the happiest people ever. 241 00:20:10,080 --> 00:20:11,080 Yeah. 242 00:20:11,080 --> 00:20:13,560 I think they were also kind of speechless. 243 00:20:13,560 --> 00:20:14,560 Yeah. 244 00:20:14,560 --> 00:20:16,240 No, that's super awesome. 245 00:20:16,240 --> 00:20:19,080 I can't even imagine how that would feel. 246 00:20:19,080 --> 00:20:24,480 I guess how does it feel going out into summies as the last person going out? 247 00:20:24,480 --> 00:20:25,480 Weird. 248 00:20:25,480 --> 00:20:26,480 Very weird. 249 00:20:26,480 --> 00:20:34,040 I think the weirdest part was that I was climbing next to Janja and she's one of my role models 250 00:20:34,040 --> 00:20:38,440 and yeah, complete idol. 251 00:20:38,440 --> 00:20:48,040 And I couldn't really concentrate on myself because of course the crowd was behind Janja 252 00:20:48,040 --> 00:20:51,080 and not really behind me. 253 00:20:51,080 --> 00:20:58,960 But it also kind of hyped me up because it was very loud and it was also very loud for 254 00:20:58,960 --> 00:21:06,080 me and that was kind of pushing me and yeah, it felt good. 255 00:21:06,080 --> 00:21:13,920 And it was not really putting me under pressure that I was the last person going out because 256 00:21:13,920 --> 00:21:20,320 I knew that I won't flash every boulder in semis. 257 00:21:20,320 --> 00:21:29,600 So it was, yeah, I still just enjoyed it and enjoyed climbing in semis because that was 258 00:21:29,600 --> 00:21:34,000 my goal and I already, yeah, achieved it. 259 00:21:34,000 --> 00:21:35,000 Awesome. 260 00:21:35,000 --> 00:21:36,000 Yeah. 261 00:21:36,000 --> 00:21:44,960 So would you want to be in that position again or would you prefer a different, I guess, 262 00:21:44,960 --> 00:21:47,000 starting list in semis? 263 00:21:47,000 --> 00:21:53,400 I know some people prefer to go out sooner or later. 264 00:21:53,400 --> 00:21:55,400 I think it doesn't really matter for me. 265 00:21:55,400 --> 00:22:03,680 In Prague, I was kind of starting, I think, in the middle into semis and it also felt 266 00:22:03,680 --> 00:22:04,680 good. 267 00:22:04,680 --> 00:22:10,920 So in China, I started as the first person, in Innsbruck as the last person and in Prague 268 00:22:10,920 --> 00:22:14,320 as the middle person and everything was good. 269 00:22:14,320 --> 00:22:15,320 Okay. 270 00:22:15,320 --> 00:22:17,680 So it doesn't matter for me. 271 00:22:17,680 --> 00:22:18,680 Awesome. 272 00:22:18,680 --> 00:22:19,680 Okay. 273 00:22:19,680 --> 00:22:21,440 Just having a good time climbing. 274 00:22:21,440 --> 00:22:26,000 You also mentioned that you feel like a lot of young guns are breaking through the comp 275 00:22:26,000 --> 00:22:28,880 scene right now. 276 00:22:28,880 --> 00:22:32,860 Do you feel like, is there something about youth climbers you feel are better suited 277 00:22:32,860 --> 00:22:34,300 for the World Cups right now? 278 00:22:34,300 --> 00:22:39,080 Is it just a style thing or is it an age thing, do you think? 279 00:22:39,080 --> 00:22:40,080 I don't know. 280 00:22:40,080 --> 00:22:49,920 I think at the first World Cups, maybe the youth climbers can be kind of more chilled 281 00:22:49,920 --> 00:22:55,720 because when you're climbing, for example, on your first World Cup, not everybody is 282 00:22:55,720 --> 00:23:03,600 looking at you and you can be a bit more relaxed in your mind and that's maybe sometimes helping 283 00:23:03,600 --> 00:23:09,480 you because with expectations, the pressure is also rising and then it's sometimes harder 284 00:23:09,480 --> 00:23:14,160 to get you climbing to the wall. 285 00:23:14,160 --> 00:23:18,720 And for sure, I think the youth scene is also very strong. 286 00:23:18,720 --> 00:23:31,360 So there are a lot of strong people climbing and yeah, maybe also the style from the World 287 00:23:31,360 --> 00:23:36,240 Cups, which is often very new school. 288 00:23:36,240 --> 00:23:44,200 I think a lot of the younger climbers and youth climbers trained this new school style 289 00:23:44,200 --> 00:23:46,840 from a very early age on. 290 00:23:46,840 --> 00:24:01,280 So I did double dinos also already five years ago and I think a lot of the older athletes 291 00:24:01,280 --> 00:24:09,160 sometimes struggle with dynamic boulders or very coordinated boulders because they didn't 292 00:24:09,160 --> 00:24:11,080 do it in the early age. 293 00:24:11,080 --> 00:24:15,800 Yeah, I've also heard some people say that they're kind of like bringing back power boulders 294 00:24:15,800 --> 00:24:18,920 or like maybe old school like crimp moves. 295 00:24:18,920 --> 00:24:23,640 How do you feel on those growing up like doing all the dynamic stuff? 296 00:24:23,640 --> 00:24:24,920 I like both. 297 00:24:24,920 --> 00:24:30,480 So I also really like old school boulders. 298 00:24:30,480 --> 00:24:40,160 I mean, I started on the rock and rock climbing for me is also kind of an old school climbing. 299 00:24:40,160 --> 00:24:48,280 So I really like both styles and I feel like the mixture of like new school boulders and 300 00:24:48,280 --> 00:24:56,360 old school boulders would be perfect when you're having like one very hard and powerful 301 00:24:56,360 --> 00:25:02,840 old school boulder but also maybe a fun coordinated jump. 302 00:25:02,840 --> 00:25:03,840 Yeah. 303 00:25:03,840 --> 00:25:06,760 Okay, sounds like you're an all-arounder then. 304 00:25:06,760 --> 00:25:11,680 Okay, so then let's get into what it's like on Team Germany. 305 00:25:11,680 --> 00:25:16,960 I think you're like the first German athlete that I've interviewed. 306 00:25:16,960 --> 00:25:23,680 So yeah, you mentioned like training camps and like a national training center. 307 00:25:23,680 --> 00:25:26,640 Do you guys generally train together as a team? 308 00:25:26,640 --> 00:25:30,420 Please excuse this brief intermission but if you're interested in deleted scenes from 309 00:25:30,420 --> 00:25:35,160 this episode where we talk about her preferred boulder style and her training routine, do 310 00:25:35,160 --> 00:25:38,620 consider helping support this podcast on Patreon. 311 00:25:38,620 --> 00:25:42,560 Some other perks include a membership pin shipped to you after two months, prioritize 312 00:25:42,560 --> 00:25:47,540 guest questions or the ability to submit video questions and more to come. 313 00:25:47,540 --> 00:25:51,780 The proceeds go back into the podcast Help Me Break Even and they help me improve the 314 00:25:51,780 --> 00:25:54,180 experience of the guests. 315 00:25:54,180 --> 00:25:58,760 If you'd like to help out non-monetarily, liking, commenting and sharing helps a great 316 00:25:58,760 --> 00:25:59,760 deal as well. 317 00:25:59,760 --> 00:26:01,120 Back to the show. 318 00:26:01,120 --> 00:26:10,480 Yeah, so the German national team is having its training center here in Munich-Türkirchen 319 00:26:10,480 --> 00:26:19,080 and they're also group trainings and sometimes training camps and special setting but I'm 320 00:26:19,080 --> 00:26:30,640 also still training with the Bavarian squad in Augsburg which is also kind of a regional 321 00:26:30,640 --> 00:26:45,000 training center and there are also very good training facilities especially for leap climbing 322 00:26:45,000 --> 00:26:54,400 and that's why I'm training with the Bavarians and also with the adults from the German team 323 00:26:54,400 --> 00:27:05,640 and yeah there are also still some people who live in Cologne and training there but 324 00:27:05,640 --> 00:27:08,360 that's kind of a different group. 325 00:27:08,360 --> 00:27:13,240 So is it like your five days a week, is that with the whole team or is it a lot of that 326 00:27:13,240 --> 00:27:14,720 like by yourself too? 327 00:27:14,720 --> 00:27:23,480 So it's a mixture on Tuesday and on Thursday I'm training with the Bavarian team and on 328 00:27:23,480 --> 00:27:34,760 Monday I'm training with the adult German team and the other days they are very like 329 00:27:34,760 --> 00:27:40,480 sometimes I'm training alone, sometimes I'm training with some people here in the gyms 330 00:27:40,480 --> 00:27:49,280 and some friends I just know from climbing so that really depends on what my mood is 331 00:27:49,280 --> 00:27:53,040 and what my session will look like. 332 00:27:53,040 --> 00:27:57,660 And then in terms of like training with the German team, is there anyone on the team you 333 00:27:57,660 --> 00:28:02,760 really look up to or you feel like you have either like a really similar style to or really 334 00:28:02,760 --> 00:28:07,640 different style to that really helps with your training as well? 335 00:28:07,640 --> 00:28:18,840 So I think I have kind of a similar style maybe to Hannah Meier but we are not often 336 00:28:18,840 --> 00:28:23,800 training together because she's living in Cologne and I'm living in Munich and that 337 00:28:23,800 --> 00:28:29,600 makes it sometimes a bit harder to train together. 338 00:28:29,600 --> 00:28:39,160 But I feel like in our German team we're all very have very different styles but yeah and 339 00:28:39,160 --> 00:28:46,120 maybe Lucia we also kind of maybe having more or less similar style. 340 00:28:46,120 --> 00:28:50,800 Yeah I mean I guess there are also a lot of like strong women on the team. 341 00:28:50,800 --> 00:28:57,860 I guess how's the dynamic there like do you feel very competitive against them or is it 342 00:28:57,860 --> 00:29:00,360 more like a friendly vibe? 343 00:29:00,360 --> 00:29:09,840 So in training it's friendly-wide because we train together and we all know each other 344 00:29:09,840 --> 00:29:19,160 and also I think we all want to kind of get the best out of ourselves but also want to 345 00:29:19,160 --> 00:29:23,040 support the others. 346 00:29:23,040 --> 00:29:31,840 But of course we are having nomination comps and we are more girls than we have spots and 347 00:29:31,840 --> 00:29:41,320 yeah then on the nomination comes we for sure are competitive and everybody wants to have 348 00:29:41,320 --> 00:29:52,920 a spot and yeah then in the comp we're yeah of course comparing each other. 349 00:29:52,920 --> 00:29:57,280 But I think that's also very normal. 350 00:29:57,280 --> 00:30:03,040 But after the comp and before the comp we are all very good friends and yeah. 351 00:30:03,040 --> 00:30:04,040 Just not during. 352 00:30:04,040 --> 00:30:07,400 Also support each other. 353 00:30:07,400 --> 00:30:14,640 And you mentioned that you recently finished taking tests to get the sports soldier I guess 354 00:30:14,640 --> 00:30:16,840 what would you call it? 355 00:30:16,840 --> 00:30:20,120 Position role like nomination? 356 00:30:20,120 --> 00:30:35,800 So it's kind of the support program from yeah the German military and it's supporting us 357 00:30:35,800 --> 00:30:42,000 like some special athletes so they are not a lot of spots. 358 00:30:42,000 --> 00:30:52,400 I'm also currently the only girl which is supported by the military. 359 00:30:52,400 --> 00:31:05,280 It's a very good support system and it's giving me a lot of time for training and also I can 360 00:31:05,280 --> 00:31:18,800 be financial independent and yeah it's a very very good program for me and I'm very happy 361 00:31:18,800 --> 00:31:23,280 to be supported by the German military. 362 00:31:23,280 --> 00:31:27,800 Like with the tests that you have to take for it like what does that entail? 363 00:31:27,800 --> 00:31:35,760 We have to be on a specific kind of team so there's the national team but there's also 364 00:31:35,760 --> 00:31:42,760 the Olympic team and the perspective team I don't know. 365 00:31:42,760 --> 00:31:54,560 And I had to be in this specific team and need to have a chance to get to the Olympic 366 00:31:54,560 --> 00:32:02,960 Games and a perspective to get better in the next years. 367 00:32:02,960 --> 00:32:07,000 So they have like specific requirements I guess based on like your results? 368 00:32:07,000 --> 00:32:19,920 No they're not like specific requirements but you need to be good over a lot of years 369 00:32:19,920 --> 00:32:23,720 and otherwise you will be kicked out. 370 00:32:23,720 --> 00:32:25,760 Oh yeah okay. 371 00:32:25,760 --> 00:32:29,720 Does it manage to like support you full time or do you also have to take on like other 372 00:32:29,720 --> 00:32:32,640 jobs at a gym or anything like that? 373 00:32:32,640 --> 00:32:36,000 No no they're supporting me full time. 374 00:32:36,000 --> 00:32:45,040 Of course I won't be getting rich but yeah it's enough to live. 375 00:32:45,040 --> 00:32:49,000 Do you have any like plans of school or other work in the future? 376 00:32:49,000 --> 00:32:50,000 Yeah. 377 00:32:50,000 --> 00:33:03,600 No no I would like to study and thinking about psychology or maybe also get a teacher. 378 00:33:03,600 --> 00:33:07,640 But I'm still deciding I'm not sure. 379 00:33:07,640 --> 00:33:14,520 In terms of like timelines since you do spend a lot of time training is that something you 380 00:33:14,520 --> 00:33:19,520 would want to push off until after maybe you're like done with your climbing career or is 381 00:33:19,520 --> 00:33:23,440 it something that you kind of have to like do at the same time? 382 00:33:23,440 --> 00:33:37,120 I think maybe I will start studying like next year or in two years also to kind of get something 383 00:33:37,120 --> 00:33:45,920 next to climbing because when you're always concentrating only on one thing it will also 384 00:33:45,920 --> 00:33:58,720 yeah kind of be stressful maybe and I think having something besides climbing could also 385 00:33:58,720 --> 00:34:02,120 help me from time to time. 386 00:34:02,120 --> 00:34:07,280 But of course I will still do climbing as my full time. 387 00:34:07,280 --> 00:34:08,800 Yeah okay that makes sense. 388 00:34:08,800 --> 00:34:13,240 How are you feeling for like the upcoming 2025 season? 389 00:34:13,240 --> 00:34:25,120 I'm really looking forward to the 2025 season and yeah I'm already very very excited. 390 00:34:25,120 --> 00:34:33,880 Of course I have a bit more pressure than I had last year at this time because I know 391 00:34:33,880 --> 00:34:45,960 that there are more people who expect something from me but I think I'm currently very very 392 00:34:45,960 --> 00:35:02,200 good also mentally and also training wise I'm on the right way and feeling strong. 393 00:35:02,200 --> 00:35:12,280 So yeah I feel like I'm ready and also ready maybe to get better results than last year 394 00:35:12,280 --> 00:35:17,960 and yeah I'm excited. 395 00:35:17,960 --> 00:35:23,800 Do you have any like specific goals for the season or any world cups that you're particularly 396 00:35:23,800 --> 00:35:25,000 excited for? 397 00:35:25,000 --> 00:35:32,720 I would really really like to get into my first final on the world cup because it was 398 00:35:32,720 --> 00:35:38,960 so so close on two comps last year to get into the world cup final. 399 00:35:38,960 --> 00:35:42,600 Yeah you had like some eighth places right? 400 00:35:42,600 --> 00:35:52,720 Yeah I had two eighth places because of one try so I would be very happy if that goal 401 00:35:52,720 --> 00:36:00,840 could be achieved and I'm also looking forward to the world cup in Brazil because I've never 402 00:36:00,840 --> 00:36:07,320 been to Brazil and I feel like that's very it sounds very exciting a world cup in Brazil 403 00:36:07,320 --> 00:36:20,640 and apart from the bouldering world cup scene I'm hoping to get some spots on the lead world 404 00:36:20,640 --> 00:36:31,840 cup scene next year to get some experience in lead climbing because I really yeah also 405 00:36:31,840 --> 00:36:40,520 like to climb on the rope and yeah that would be great if that could work out next year 406 00:36:40,520 --> 00:36:43,600 to climb on both disciplines. 407 00:36:43,600 --> 00:36:47,400 Yeah I guess that's like kind of surprising to hear because I feel like a lot of people 408 00:36:47,400 --> 00:36:52,960 would prefer to just do one or the other and they kind of only did both because they had 409 00:36:52,960 --> 00:36:56,920 to for like the combined format. 410 00:36:56,920 --> 00:37:01,960 If they like get rid of the combined format and separate out boulder and lead would you 411 00:37:01,960 --> 00:37:03,400 still want to do both? 412 00:37:03,400 --> 00:37:13,280 Yeah I would still like to do both because I can't decide what discipline I prefer but 413 00:37:13,280 --> 00:37:21,640 I think in April it will be decided if in LA it will be a combined format or separated 414 00:37:21,640 --> 00:37:31,080 so yeah I think then maybe I still have to decide but we will see. 415 00:37:31,080 --> 00:37:35,760 Well I mean you could still do both and be great at both but it's good to know that it's 416 00:37:35,760 --> 00:37:38,280 in April I didn't hear a date about that. 417 00:37:38,280 --> 00:37:41,560 I'm not completely sure but I thought in April. 418 00:37:41,560 --> 00:37:45,040 I'll have to keep an eye out. 419 00:37:45,040 --> 00:37:49,720 Is it like do you know if like your coaches are going to kind of try to force you to pick 420 00:37:49,720 --> 00:37:54,200 one or the other so that you have like a better chance or will you be able to continue doing 421 00:37:54,200 --> 00:37:55,200 both? 422 00:37:55,200 --> 00:38:06,160 I think I would still be able to do both but maybe not like I think I would have to maybe 423 00:38:06,160 --> 00:38:16,200 stop competing in one discipline because doing both disciplines all World Cups is too much. 424 00:38:16,200 --> 00:38:25,880 That's yeah too many comps but I still feel like when I'm training lead I'm also getting 425 00:38:25,880 --> 00:38:33,720 better in bouldering so I don't feel like I'm stopping one discipline completely which 426 00:38:33,720 --> 00:38:34,960 helped me. 427 00:38:34,960 --> 00:38:42,360 I think I still need to like to train both disciplines to get stronger. 428 00:38:42,360 --> 00:38:46,920 Yeah I would be really interested to see if they break it out who ends up competing in 429 00:38:46,920 --> 00:38:53,920 both and if they're successful in doing trying to do both at the same time. 430 00:38:53,920 --> 00:39:00,720 Yeah I'd be really interested to see that but yeah earlier you mentioned that you are 431 00:39:00,720 --> 00:39:06,400 just doing like climbing and training full time now but it is nice to like have something 432 00:39:06,400 --> 00:39:11,000 on the side to not always be focused on the same thing. 433 00:39:11,000 --> 00:39:16,520 I mean I guess right now you are always focused on climbing. 434 00:39:16,520 --> 00:39:21,820 Is there anything else that you're doing outside of climbing right now that you like do to 435 00:39:21,820 --> 00:39:24,560 take your mind off of it? 436 00:39:24,560 --> 00:39:33,080 Yeah for sure there of course when I'm having a rest day I'm doing a lot of other things. 437 00:39:33,080 --> 00:39:47,000 I really like to be creative and I'm sewing a lot so and sewing clothes and yeah I'm 438 00:39:47,000 --> 00:39:59,760 also often baking or cooking or yeah I think I'm having a lot of different hobbies which 439 00:39:59,760 --> 00:40:10,360 I'm doing yeah and I also like when I'm for example having some time where I'm not climbing 440 00:40:10,360 --> 00:40:19,600 for example in my season break I really really like to just go to the mountains and be outside 441 00:40:19,600 --> 00:40:23,480 do other things than just climbing. 442 00:40:23,480 --> 00:40:31,280 I'm also sometimes doing downhilling or other sports. 443 00:40:31,280 --> 00:40:33,240 Wait what is downhilling? 444 00:40:33,240 --> 00:40:35,760 Like with a bike. 445 00:40:35,760 --> 00:40:38,800 Oh okay like mountain biking or is that different? 446 00:40:38,800 --> 00:40:47,600 Yeah yeah no it's kind of mountain biking but you're going up the hill with the lift 447 00:40:47,600 --> 00:40:50,080 and then just driving down. 448 00:40:50,080 --> 00:40:53,800 Okay okay so just the thrill part. 449 00:40:53,800 --> 00:40:57,480 Yeah just the fun part. 450 00:40:57,480 --> 00:41:05,880 Or in winter I'm going skiing often also sometimes on the weekend or yeah. 451 00:41:05,880 --> 00:41:08,560 That sounds good. 452 00:41:08,560 --> 00:41:14,360 Something I don't hear about too often is there like anything that you've made recently 453 00:41:14,360 --> 00:41:17,160 that you would want to show? 454 00:41:17,160 --> 00:41:19,640 Oh yeah I have two things here. 455 00:41:19,640 --> 00:41:20,640 Oh perfect. 456 00:41:20,640 --> 00:41:30,600 I put this one here and this little shirt. 457 00:41:30,600 --> 00:41:33,640 It looks really tiny. 458 00:41:33,640 --> 00:41:35,480 Yeah it's also for a baby. 459 00:41:35,480 --> 00:41:41,240 Oh okay okay it's hard to tell because when we're recording the quality is not very good. 460 00:41:41,240 --> 00:41:44,040 I think it'll be better once it's downloaded but okay. 461 00:41:44,040 --> 00:41:47,280 I couldn't tell if that was like supposed to be for you and it was just like a really 462 00:41:47,280 --> 00:41:48,280 tight shirt. 463 00:41:48,280 --> 00:41:49,280 No. 464 00:41:49,280 --> 00:41:50,280 Okay awesome. 465 00:41:50,280 --> 00:41:53,640 Is that like for like a family member or like? 466 00:41:53,640 --> 00:41:56,200 Oh we will see we will see no. 467 00:41:56,200 --> 00:42:05,120 I'm just just doing stuff and then I'm giving it away to other people when I see them. 468 00:42:05,120 --> 00:42:07,200 Yeah what's your like favorite thing to sew? 469 00:42:07,200 --> 00:42:08,200 I don't know. 470 00:42:08,200 --> 00:42:09,200 I do everything. 471 00:42:09,200 --> 00:42:11,760 How long have you been doing it for? 472 00:42:11,760 --> 00:42:19,080 I think my grandma showed me how to sew so I think I was five years old or something 473 00:42:19,080 --> 00:42:20,080 like that. 474 00:42:20,080 --> 00:42:23,160 Glad that you have something else to take your mind off of climbing. 475 00:42:23,160 --> 00:42:26,920 Were you gonna say something else about the sewing earlier? 476 00:42:26,920 --> 00:42:38,200 Sometimes when I'm also like not training for for comps I'm also sometimes just going 477 00:42:38,200 --> 00:42:46,440 on the rock so I'm still trying to find some time to go rock climbing especially in the 478 00:42:46,440 --> 00:42:47,440 off season. 479 00:42:47,440 --> 00:42:50,520 Yeah are there like any projects that you're working on? 480 00:42:50,520 --> 00:42:54,800 Currently not specifically. 481 00:42:54,800 --> 00:43:04,080 Also just climbing on a rope outside so I'm not really I'm doing bouldering outside just 482 00:43:04,080 --> 00:43:17,760 rope climbing but I still have an open project in Niciapek in Slovenia and one at Hotachberg 483 00:43:17,760 --> 00:43:22,600 it's in in Kempten here in the Varia. 484 00:43:22,600 --> 00:43:26,120 It's not very well known I don't know. 485 00:43:26,120 --> 00:43:30,160 Okay that's something you're working on. 486 00:43:30,160 --> 00:43:35,920 Well I think those are all the questions I had so we can move on to some of the discord 487 00:43:35,920 --> 00:43:39,960 questions and Instagram questions that came through. 488 00:43:39,960 --> 00:43:46,620 The first one what do you find to be the hardest part of being an athlete? 489 00:43:46,620 --> 00:43:53,760 So I really enjoy being an athlete so I feel like it's not super hard for me to be an athlete 490 00:43:53,760 --> 00:44:03,840 but of course there are some things you also struggle as an athlete so it's of course there 491 00:44:03,840 --> 00:44:15,080 are times where I'm not motivated to go climbing but yeah it's still kind of my duty and I 492 00:44:15,080 --> 00:44:28,560 yeah I always try to go climbing still and always giving your everything and trying to 493 00:44:28,560 --> 00:44:34,280 get the best version out of yourself is also not always easy and of course there are sometimes 494 00:44:34,280 --> 00:44:42,800 yeah weeks or months where nothing is going in the right direction and you kind of get 495 00:44:42,800 --> 00:44:50,280 weaker and weaker and don't really know what is going wrong and those times are of course 496 00:44:50,280 --> 00:44:59,440 hard where you don't really understand why nothing's working out but I'm very glad that 497 00:44:59,440 --> 00:45:01,540 those times are not that often. 498 00:45:01,540 --> 00:45:07,600 How do you get out of those slumps I guess or have you ever figured out afterwards like 499 00:45:07,600 --> 00:45:10,880 why something was going wrong for a long time? 500 00:45:10,880 --> 00:45:17,560 Often it's just for example when I'm over training so maybe doing too much and then 501 00:45:17,560 --> 00:45:29,440 yeah maybe one rest day or two are helpful and then often the things are also again going 502 00:45:29,440 --> 00:45:36,560 in the right direction and I'm very happy that I have never been injured but I think 503 00:45:36,560 --> 00:45:43,520 that's also kind of a very bad part for an athlete and hard part to be injured and when 504 00:45:43,520 --> 00:45:51,640 you're not able to do the thing you're normally doing every day and thinking about in every 505 00:45:51,640 --> 00:45:57,400 second but I'm happy that I'm injury free. 506 00:45:57,400 --> 00:46:01,720 Yeah definitely and I hope you do stay that way. 507 00:46:01,720 --> 00:46:10,040 Then another hard part sometimes with being an athlete is of course being under pressure 508 00:46:10,040 --> 00:46:20,180 all the time and also the traveling for me sometimes so being away from home sometimes 509 00:46:20,180 --> 00:46:28,920 really for months and living out of the suitcase and being in hotels it's sometimes not that 510 00:46:28,920 --> 00:46:35,880 easy and sometimes you just want to lie in your own bed. 511 00:46:35,880 --> 00:46:36,880 Yeah that makes sense. 512 00:46:36,880 --> 00:46:42,160 I guess what do you find to be like the most difficult part about traveling? 513 00:46:42,160 --> 00:46:46,480 For me it's flying and going in the airplane. 514 00:46:46,480 --> 00:46:48,560 I don't really like to fly. 515 00:46:48,560 --> 00:46:49,560 Oh really? 516 00:46:49,560 --> 00:46:50,560 Yeah. 517 00:46:50,560 --> 00:46:53,000 You like it scared of planes or? 518 00:46:53,000 --> 00:47:00,400 I don't know I just don't really like it I also don't like to be at the airport it's 519 00:47:00,400 --> 00:47:06,160 just not my favorite part. 520 00:47:06,160 --> 00:47:15,400 And just being for such a long time away from home and often sometimes being in a country 521 00:47:15,400 --> 00:47:24,760 where you don't really enjoy being and sometimes you're not in a beautiful city or in a nice 522 00:47:24,760 --> 00:47:36,440 hotel sometimes it's just not super nice it's not like vacation. 523 00:47:36,440 --> 00:47:42,600 You still have to kind of prepare yourself for the camp and often you also don't really 524 00:47:42,600 --> 00:47:46,120 see much of the place you're going. 525 00:47:46,120 --> 00:47:55,440 It's very often just going there maybe going to one of the gyms near the hotel and being 526 00:47:55,440 --> 00:47:58,760 at the venue. 527 00:47:58,760 --> 00:48:03,040 Yeah I guess like do you feel like you don't really get a chance to travel because the 528 00:48:03,040 --> 00:48:07,520 competition is on your mind or you just like really don't have the time? 529 00:48:07,520 --> 00:48:13,360 Sometimes you really don't have the time and sometimes of course you're also just too concentrated 530 00:48:13,360 --> 00:48:23,880 on the camp but I also always try to kind of experience as much as possible from the 531 00:48:23,880 --> 00:48:31,200 city and from the people there because that also kind of helps you to not overthink the 532 00:48:31,200 --> 00:48:40,560 competition sometimes seeing maybe something of the city or just maybe strolling and I 533 00:48:40,560 --> 00:48:47,240 don't know going to this grocery store or something like that it's sometimes also very 534 00:48:47,240 --> 00:48:55,120 helpful to not just think about the camp on the next day or. 535 00:48:55,120 --> 00:48:56,120 Yeah that makes sense. 536 00:48:56,120 --> 00:49:00,800 I feel like I would kind of get stuck in the mindset of like okay I'm here I'm not allowed 537 00:49:00,800 --> 00:49:05,560 to do anything else except for think about the competition. 538 00:49:05,560 --> 00:49:10,520 Okay so next question I don't know if this one is like very specific to you or if this 539 00:49:10,520 --> 00:49:16,120 person just wants like to know in general so let me know if you feel like you have like 540 00:49:16,120 --> 00:49:23,580 a specific I don't know expertise in this but the question is just tips on improving 541 00:49:23,580 --> 00:49:24,580 arm strength. 542 00:49:24,580 --> 00:49:27,600 I also don't know if it's specific for me. 543 00:49:27,600 --> 00:49:31,880 Do you feel like that's like a big strength of yours or? 544 00:49:31,880 --> 00:49:43,960 Yeah I think it's one of my main strengths so I think I have stronger arms than legs 545 00:49:43,960 --> 00:49:50,440 and I also really like to train arms. 546 00:49:50,440 --> 00:50:01,880 What I'm doing in training is pull ups so weighted pull ups and I'm doing a lot of 547 00:50:01,880 --> 00:50:08,900 campers thing so campers thing on the campus part but also on the spray wall and that's 548 00:50:08,900 --> 00:50:20,280 also one of my favorite parts of training sometimes because I really like to just yeah 549 00:50:20,280 --> 00:50:27,080 campers and boulders and swing around on the spray wall and I feel like that's also very 550 00:50:27,080 --> 00:50:31,360 very very helpful to gain muscle strength. 551 00:50:31,360 --> 00:50:32,360 Perfect and easy. 552 00:50:32,360 --> 00:50:39,640 Okay next question curious about this too where can I buy the Germany down jacket? 553 00:50:39,640 --> 00:50:41,800 It does look very comfortable. 554 00:50:41,800 --> 00:50:43,800 No I don't know. 555 00:50:43,800 --> 00:50:45,480 Is it comfy? 556 00:50:45,480 --> 00:50:46,600 It looks amazing. 557 00:50:46,600 --> 00:50:52,080 I don't think I've seen any other team jackets that look as puffy and comfortable as the 558 00:50:52,080 --> 00:50:54,000 German one. 559 00:50:54,000 --> 00:51:01,280 Yeah I really like our German team clothes and also the down jacket but I'm not sure 560 00:51:01,280 --> 00:51:11,800 if it's available for sale and I think it's not it's not buyable but I'm also I don't 561 00:51:11,800 --> 00:51:12,800 know. 562 00:51:12,800 --> 00:51:14,160 Yeah it looks super comfy. 563 00:51:14,160 --> 00:51:15,680 I wish I had it. 564 00:51:15,680 --> 00:51:20,600 Okay another quick question so we did go over your like goals for the next climbing season 565 00:51:20,600 --> 00:51:23,600 do you have any like non-climbing related goals? 566 00:51:23,600 --> 00:51:38,040 Maybe get time to go on vacation without climbing because that's like one thing I didn't do 567 00:51:38,040 --> 00:51:47,400 now for a lot of years all of my vacations were always going somewhere and training there 568 00:51:47,400 --> 00:51:56,120 or going on the rock there or it was always kind of climbing related and I think next 569 00:51:56,120 --> 00:52:03,600 year I would like to do one vacation without climbing that would be very cool. 570 00:52:03,600 --> 00:52:05,040 Where would you want to go? 571 00:52:05,040 --> 00:52:11,560 I haven't thought about it but maybe something like Sweden or Norway. 572 00:52:11,560 --> 00:52:15,840 I feel like those might be locations where you would still want to climb a bit. 573 00:52:15,840 --> 00:52:22,000 You might be like a beach or something that just doesn't have like the option to climb. 574 00:52:22,000 --> 00:52:29,120 Yeah we will see but otherwise I don't know I don't have any specific goals just have 575 00:52:29,120 --> 00:52:30,120 a good year. 576 00:52:30,120 --> 00:52:37,320 Yeah I feel like your best bet is maybe going to like a resort where you just like stay 577 00:52:37,320 --> 00:52:42,720 on the resort and you don't have to think about anything and then probably won't think 578 00:52:42,720 --> 00:52:46,040 about climbing either because they don't have climbing at the resort. 579 00:52:46,040 --> 00:52:51,200 Something nice in like I don't know Thailand or like Mexico or something like that. 580 00:52:51,200 --> 00:52:55,040 Would be also nice yeah for sure. 581 00:52:55,040 --> 00:53:01,760 Okay last question hopefully you might be like hopefully you're comfortable speaking 582 00:53:01,760 --> 00:53:02,760 on this. 583 00:53:02,760 --> 00:53:08,680 What are your thoughts about the minimum BMI requirement? 584 00:53:08,680 --> 00:53:14,480 This person mentioned that there are former top German athletes who stopped competing 585 00:53:14,480 --> 00:53:18,760 due to the stress of weight loss. 586 00:53:18,760 --> 00:53:31,760 So I feel like it's very good that there are BMI regulations and I'm also very happy that 587 00:53:31,760 --> 00:53:42,720 they are stricter now and that the IFSC is trying to get like yeah this problem we are 588 00:53:42,720 --> 00:53:49,960 having in the climbing community yeah can solve the problem. 589 00:53:49,960 --> 00:54:01,000 I still feel like especially in the youth circuit there are not enough regulations because 590 00:54:01,000 --> 00:54:11,920 it's not like in the World Cups that there are a lot of testing and rules about the BMI 591 00:54:11,920 --> 00:54:19,480 but I feel like it's already a good step in the right direction that there are those tests 592 00:54:19,480 --> 00:54:27,560 on the World Cups but maybe the rules should be stricter and yeah there should be a bit 593 00:54:27,560 --> 00:54:33,000 more yeah problem solving. 594 00:54:33,000 --> 00:54:44,480 I don't really know about how there have been other German people having problems with the 595 00:54:44,480 --> 00:54:58,040 BMI tests but I know that the DAV so our federation is doing a lot against eating disorders and 596 00:54:58,040 --> 00:55:09,880 also we are having stricter BMI rules here in Germany than the IFSC so we need to have 597 00:55:09,880 --> 00:55:21,800 a higher BMI than the IFSC is having requiring. 598 00:55:21,800 --> 00:55:30,520 And also at our training camps and national comps there are also a lot of tests. 599 00:55:30,520 --> 00:55:37,360 Yeah I didn't know that there was no requirements or like restrictions for youth athletes though. 600 00:55:37,360 --> 00:55:44,720 The only restrictions we had was at Youth World there were some tests but they were 601 00:55:44,720 --> 00:55:56,160 also very randomly and not everybody was tested and also when the people have been under the 602 00:55:56,160 --> 00:56:03,880 BMI rules they were not really kind of stopped from competing. 603 00:56:03,880 --> 00:56:12,960 It was just tests but there was not really somebody doing with and doing something with 604 00:56:12,960 --> 00:56:15,800 this result. 605 00:56:15,800 --> 00:56:19,560 It was just a random test and then it was over. 606 00:56:19,560 --> 00:56:23,680 Is it like a warning or? 607 00:56:23,680 --> 00:56:27,440 Yeah I don't know. 608 00:56:27,440 --> 00:56:33,920 I think it would be very very important to do something in the youth circuit because 609 00:56:33,920 --> 00:56:41,400 that's where the eating disorders are most often starting. 610 00:56:41,400 --> 00:56:51,600 It's not starting when you're 25 it's starting when you're younger and yeah that's why I 611 00:56:51,600 --> 00:57:00,680 think they should start with the BMI rules or also other rules in the youth. 612 00:57:00,680 --> 00:57:05,840 Did you ever feel like pressured when you were in the youth circuit to eat a certain 613 00:57:05,840 --> 00:57:06,840 way? 614 00:57:06,840 --> 00:57:17,320 So as I said in Germany there is kind of a very good support system and that's why I 615 00:57:17,320 --> 00:57:19,840 didn't really struggle with that. 616 00:57:19,840 --> 00:57:21,880 And so that started in youth as well? 617 00:57:21,880 --> 00:57:30,200 Yeah so at least for me I don't know how it's working for the other German athletes but 618 00:57:30,200 --> 00:57:32,760 I was supported very good. 619 00:57:32,760 --> 00:57:34,760 Yeah that's good to hear. 620 00:57:34,760 --> 00:57:40,280 Okay awesome well I think that is all the questions that I had then. 621 00:57:40,280 --> 00:57:46,280 Is there anything like last minute you wanted to talk about or like words of wisdom you 622 00:57:46,280 --> 00:57:47,280 want to share? 623 00:57:47,280 --> 00:57:48,280 I really know. 624 00:57:48,280 --> 00:57:50,320 Okay yeah no worries. 625 00:57:50,320 --> 00:57:52,640 I think it was a very good talk. 626 00:57:52,640 --> 00:57:55,160 Okay great awesome. 627 00:57:55,160 --> 00:57:57,440 Do you want to let people know where they can find you? 628 00:57:57,440 --> 00:58:04,960 Yeah so I'm on Instagram on the apple move 050. 629 00:58:04,960 --> 00:58:12,080 Great okay well thank you so much for joining me today and it was great to talk to you. 630 00:58:12,080 --> 00:58:14,380 Thank you for inviting me. 631 00:58:14,380 --> 00:58:17,640 Thank you so much for making it to the end of the podcast. 632 00:58:17,640 --> 00:58:23,380 Don't forget to like and subscribe if you enjoyed otherwise you are a super fake climber. 633 00:58:23,380 --> 00:58:28,040 If you're listening on a podcasting platform I'd appreciate if you rate it five stars and 634 00:58:28,040 --> 00:58:33,000 you can continue the discussion on the free competition climbing discord linked in the 635 00:58:33,000 --> 00:58:34,000 description. 636 00:58:34,000 --> 00:58:56,640 Thanks again for listening.