1 00:00:00,000 --> 00:00:09,080 starting to climb very chubby and always being like bigger than the other guys that has always 2 00:00:09,080 --> 00:00:14,640 like affected me mentally like it's a bit of a struggle. 3 00:00:14,640 --> 00:00:21,040 A climbing shoe here for us like costs a thousand and three hundred Reals for us and that's 4 00:00:21,040 --> 00:00:27,080 like the same as the minimum wage here in Brazil. 5 00:00:27,080 --> 00:00:31,960 It's like I didn't do a one arm pull up before being able to like win nationals or send like 6 00:00:31,960 --> 00:00:36,720 my first V13 outdoors. 7 00:00:36,720 --> 00:00:42,160 If you're trying to solve it with strength, you're doing it wrong. 8 00:00:42,160 --> 00:00:45,320 Welcome to another episode of the That's Not Real Climbing podcast. 9 00:00:45,320 --> 00:00:51,040 I'm your host Jinni and I'm excited to introduce my guest for today Rodrigo Hanada. 10 00:00:51,040 --> 00:00:54,560 Rodrigo is a boulder and lead climber from Team Brazil. 11 00:00:54,560 --> 00:00:59,840 He actually started climbing fairly recently in 2018 but since then has been a two time 12 00:00:59,840 --> 00:01:05,320 South American Cup winner and is working his way up the ranks on the World Cup circuit. 13 00:01:05,320 --> 00:01:09,360 In this episode, we talk about what makes training and climbing in Brazil difficult, 14 00:01:09,360 --> 00:01:14,900 how he feels like a weaker climber due to starting out as a chubbier kid and mindset 15 00:01:14,900 --> 00:01:17,120 tips he uses while competing. 16 00:01:17,120 --> 00:01:24,800 I hope you enjoy this episode with Rodrigo. 17 00:01:24,800 --> 00:01:32,480 Real quick, I'm excited to announce my new sponsor helping make this podcast episode 18 00:01:32,480 --> 00:01:34,680 possible, Mad Rock Climbing. 19 00:01:34,680 --> 00:01:39,480 I got fitted with their brand new line of high performance shoes, the D2.1s. 20 00:01:39,480 --> 00:01:43,360 They just came out December 6th but you might notice a few of your favorite gum climbers 21 00:01:43,360 --> 00:01:49,760 are already wearing them like Oscar Boudrand from Team Canada and also me. 22 00:01:49,760 --> 00:01:53,280 This is the first time I've gotten to wear their shoes for an extended period of time 23 00:01:53,280 --> 00:01:57,640 and I'm actually super impressed with the grip of their in-house rubber and of course 24 00:01:57,640 --> 00:02:02,900 the famous drone heel that everyone says is the cheat code to heel hooking small edges. 25 00:02:02,900 --> 00:02:06,880 Feel free to message me if you have any questions about the shoes or sizing and you can use 26 00:02:06,880 --> 00:02:12,520 the discount code NotRealClimber for 10% off your entire Mad Rock order. 27 00:02:12,520 --> 00:02:14,680 Info will be in the description. 28 00:02:14,680 --> 00:02:15,680 Back to the show. 29 00:02:15,680 --> 00:02:16,680 But yeah, how are you doing today? 30 00:02:16,680 --> 00:02:19,040 Are you just home in Brazil at the moment? 31 00:02:19,040 --> 00:02:20,760 Yeah, I'm just home. 32 00:02:20,760 --> 00:02:21,760 Today is a rest day. 33 00:02:21,760 --> 00:02:22,760 So pretty chill. 34 00:02:22,760 --> 00:02:23,760 Yeah. 35 00:02:23,760 --> 00:02:25,920 Where in Brazil are you from? 36 00:02:25,920 --> 00:02:27,480 São Paulo. 37 00:02:27,480 --> 00:02:29,200 It's like the biggest city. 38 00:02:29,200 --> 00:02:30,200 Okay. 39 00:02:30,200 --> 00:02:31,200 Yeah. 40 00:02:31,200 --> 00:02:35,600 Unfortunately, I don't know too much about Brazil, but we'll get into that later and 41 00:02:35,600 --> 00:02:37,360 I'll learn more, which will be good. 42 00:02:37,360 --> 00:02:38,360 For sure. 43 00:02:38,360 --> 00:02:41,260 But yeah, let's get right into it. 44 00:02:41,260 --> 00:02:43,840 How did you get started climbing and competing? 45 00:02:43,840 --> 00:02:46,880 So yeah, I started climbing about like eight years ago. 46 00:02:46,880 --> 00:02:50,320 I was pretty lazy in that time. 47 00:02:50,320 --> 00:02:54,880 Like I would always like stay at home and stuff and some friends are like, oh, let's 48 00:02:54,880 --> 00:02:56,960 check out this climbing gym. 49 00:02:56,960 --> 00:03:02,440 And I just went there like without any expectations and I couldn't really get to the top. 50 00:03:02,440 --> 00:03:06,720 I was like pretty chubby back then and I was like, yeah. 51 00:03:06,720 --> 00:03:11,240 And I was like, oh, I guess I want to come back and try to make it to the top like in 52 00:03:11,240 --> 00:03:15,240 just in any boulder. 53 00:03:15,240 --> 00:03:20,260 And then I came back and that's how I started like just going and going and I got really 54 00:03:20,260 --> 00:03:23,680 addicted to it and I would go like every day after school. 55 00:03:23,680 --> 00:03:27,300 Yeah, like when I was 14, I'm 22 now. 56 00:03:27,300 --> 00:03:28,640 So like eight years. 57 00:03:28,640 --> 00:03:29,640 Yeah. 58 00:03:29,640 --> 00:03:30,640 Wow. 59 00:03:30,640 --> 00:03:34,400 Yeah, that's like pretty recent and I think a lot of people can also relate to that kind 60 00:03:34,400 --> 00:03:37,920 of story casually at least. 61 00:03:37,920 --> 00:03:40,680 Did you do other sports before that? 62 00:03:40,680 --> 00:03:47,360 Because like eight years is pretty fast, especially for like getting onto the World Cup circuit. 63 00:03:47,360 --> 00:03:49,360 Did you like do other sports growing up? 64 00:03:49,360 --> 00:03:52,560 Or I guess you said you were chubby, so I don't know. 65 00:03:52,560 --> 00:03:59,060 Yeah, like when I was young, like way younger, like I used to play rugby. 66 00:03:59,060 --> 00:04:05,560 I was on a rugby team and I also did like one year of gymnastics right after it. 67 00:04:05,560 --> 00:04:11,600 But then I had to stop both of them because I had a problem on my knees and the doctor 68 00:04:11,600 --> 00:04:12,600 said I had to. 69 00:04:12,600 --> 00:04:13,600 Like an injury? 70 00:04:13,600 --> 00:04:16,220 Yeah, I still don't know exactly what it was. 71 00:04:16,220 --> 00:04:20,960 Maybe the doctor was wrong because now my knees like I don't have that problem anymore. 72 00:04:20,960 --> 00:04:23,680 But he was like, yeah, you have to stop all sports. 73 00:04:23,680 --> 00:04:27,120 And I've always been like really competitive. 74 00:04:27,120 --> 00:04:31,820 And so when he said it, it was like pretty devastating for me. 75 00:04:31,820 --> 00:04:36,240 And I feel like that's when I started like getting chubby and I was just sad and that's 76 00:04:36,240 --> 00:04:38,760 why I would stay home. 77 00:04:38,760 --> 00:04:42,640 And I guess when I found climbing, it was like that escape and it brought me back that 78 00:04:42,640 --> 00:04:46,920 feeling of like competing but it was more like against myself. 79 00:04:46,920 --> 00:04:51,400 So that's what I really liked about the sport and the support that everyone would give you 80 00:04:51,400 --> 00:04:53,180 when you were on the wall. 81 00:04:53,180 --> 00:04:57,960 I feel like that's something pretty great about the climbing community. 82 00:04:57,960 --> 00:05:02,800 And I would say that something else that really brought me closer to the sport was the fact 83 00:05:02,800 --> 00:05:11,120 that I've always been into like solving puzzles and problems like maths and stuff like that. 84 00:05:11,120 --> 00:05:15,680 And I feel like solving each boulder problem is always like something that's pretty intricate 85 00:05:15,680 --> 00:05:18,120 and always like psychs me up. 86 00:05:18,120 --> 00:05:22,600 And so like the climbing didn't give you any like knee issues, especially with like bouldering. 87 00:05:22,600 --> 00:05:24,560 There's a lot of like falling and jumping down. 88 00:05:24,560 --> 00:05:28,080 I feel like some people get issues with their knees. 89 00:05:28,080 --> 00:05:34,400 I had some problem like on my, I don't know the name exactly in English. 90 00:05:34,400 --> 00:05:42,440 But I ruptured my ligament twice like in the last year and a half. 91 00:05:42,440 --> 00:05:46,280 But it has nothing to do with the injury that I had like eight years ago. 92 00:05:46,280 --> 00:05:49,600 So it was just, it just happened. 93 00:05:49,600 --> 00:05:50,600 Geez. 94 00:05:50,600 --> 00:05:53,640 Okay, I was climbing on that now. 95 00:05:53,640 --> 00:05:57,640 I still like to be honest, it's still hard to deal with it. 96 00:05:57,640 --> 00:06:02,520 Like doing some drop knees or very like intensive heel hooks can be scary. 97 00:06:02,520 --> 00:06:08,200 But I've been working it a lot with my physiotherapist and trying to work like mostly my mental game 98 00:06:08,200 --> 00:06:13,720 about it because heel hooks have always been a strong point for me. 99 00:06:13,720 --> 00:06:16,540 And I feel like I've lost that kind of like superpower. 100 00:06:16,540 --> 00:06:18,840 So I'm trying to like get it back. 101 00:06:18,840 --> 00:06:20,640 Yeah, that's really hard. 102 00:06:20,640 --> 00:06:22,080 How did you hurt it? 103 00:06:22,080 --> 00:06:28,680 The first time was like three weeks, one month before Pan American Games that we're going 104 00:06:28,680 --> 00:06:32,120 to qualify for the Olympics in 2023. 105 00:06:32,120 --> 00:06:34,960 So it was like a big bummer for me. 106 00:06:34,960 --> 00:06:37,840 I was like feeling really good for that event. 107 00:06:37,840 --> 00:06:43,640 And I still like, I was still able to recover in three weeks and I still competed, but I 108 00:06:43,640 --> 00:06:47,720 like didn't have the results that I was expecting. 109 00:06:47,720 --> 00:06:52,500 And then I had it again in 2024 in Innsbruck. 110 00:06:52,500 --> 00:06:57,600 So like it was around August last year. 111 00:06:57,600 --> 00:07:04,560 And I was just like doing a lot of training and I feel maybe it was just like overusing 112 00:07:04,560 --> 00:07:09,360 it and I did like a okay heel hook and it just popped. 113 00:07:09,360 --> 00:07:11,800 But it was like different ligaments. 114 00:07:11,800 --> 00:07:15,040 So the first time was doing a drop knee, the second time was doing a heel hook. 115 00:07:15,040 --> 00:07:18,520 Yeah, I feel like it must be hard to like mentally get over that. 116 00:07:18,520 --> 00:07:26,280 I feel like recently I know a couple of people who also hurt their knees like doing drop 117 00:07:26,280 --> 00:07:28,360 knees or like hard heel hooks. 118 00:07:28,360 --> 00:07:36,800 And yeah, any like tips for how to get over the mental side of doing like a scary heel 119 00:07:36,800 --> 00:07:40,240 hook or hard heel hook or something like that after the injury? 120 00:07:40,240 --> 00:07:48,280 Yeah, I feel like something that helped me was like I was getting inspiration from other 121 00:07:48,280 --> 00:07:51,480 people that I also knew that injured themselves. 122 00:07:51,480 --> 00:07:59,360 So I feel like I also tried to like share a bit of my injury and like my rehab process 123 00:07:59,360 --> 00:08:05,040 because I feel like having these stories to base yourself upon really help you like just 124 00:08:05,040 --> 00:08:09,400 put your head down and say like okay, I'm going to work again, I'll be back soon and 125 00:08:09,400 --> 00:08:11,800 this is gonna make me stronger. 126 00:08:11,800 --> 00:08:17,440 And I gotta say that like the times that I felt like I've had like the biggest like mental 127 00:08:17,440 --> 00:08:23,560 switches or biggest gains in my climbing were actually when I injured myself because that's 128 00:08:23,560 --> 00:08:28,000 when I had like enough time at home to like reflect about my training, what I'm doing 129 00:08:28,000 --> 00:08:35,960 right, what I'm doing wrong and really like try to make it like to a better path and work 130 00:08:35,960 --> 00:08:38,360 on other things that I normally can't. 131 00:08:38,360 --> 00:08:44,280 So like I struggle as well with like finger strength, this is something that is hard for 132 00:08:44,280 --> 00:08:49,640 me like small crimps and both times that I injured my knee were like periods where I 133 00:08:49,640 --> 00:08:51,880 could really work on my finger strength. 134 00:08:51,880 --> 00:08:55,400 So in the end of those periods, I was feeling way stronger. 135 00:08:55,400 --> 00:09:03,300 So I think that injuries like of course they're really bad and not ideal for like a competition 136 00:09:03,300 --> 00:09:08,840 year, but if you like try to deal them in the best way possible, I'm sure that you can 137 00:09:08,840 --> 00:09:10,800 always take like positive outcomes. 138 00:09:10,800 --> 00:09:18,160 Yeah, I've heard that a lot that you can kind of like use an injury as a motivator to improve 139 00:09:18,160 --> 00:09:20,080 other areas of your climbing. 140 00:09:20,080 --> 00:09:21,800 Have you had any injuries? 141 00:09:21,800 --> 00:09:30,600 I actually, shoulders are the main thing but it's really hard to climb without using your 142 00:09:30,600 --> 00:09:32,960 shoulders at all. 143 00:09:32,960 --> 00:09:39,120 So yeah, honestly with shoulders, I don't really know how to continue training with 144 00:09:39,120 --> 00:09:40,680 the shoulder issue. 145 00:09:40,680 --> 00:09:41,680 Maybe some slabs. 146 00:09:41,680 --> 00:09:42,680 Yeah, yeah, slabs. 147 00:09:42,680 --> 00:09:48,120 But even then there's like some weird pressing stuff that was really hard to deal with. 148 00:09:48,120 --> 00:09:52,280 Yeah, it never got like fully like ruptured or anything. 149 00:09:52,280 --> 00:09:54,040 So at least there's that. 150 00:09:54,040 --> 00:09:57,200 But yeah, I feel like shoulders is a tough one. 151 00:09:57,200 --> 00:10:00,960 I feel like, yeah, fingers and shoulders, those are hard. 152 00:10:00,960 --> 00:10:04,120 Actually haven't had a finger injury though, knocking on wood. 153 00:10:04,120 --> 00:10:05,960 Yeah, fingers are the worst. 154 00:10:05,960 --> 00:10:08,160 Yeah, have you had a finger injury? 155 00:10:08,160 --> 00:10:12,640 I've never had like a major finger injury, like I've never fully ruptured a pulley, but 156 00:10:12,640 --> 00:10:16,840 I've had like minor ones that last for so many months. 157 00:10:16,840 --> 00:10:18,080 They're like pretty annoying. 158 00:10:18,080 --> 00:10:23,560 Yeah, surprisingly, I feel like based on the athletes I've talked to, there's actually 159 00:10:23,560 --> 00:10:28,720 very few injuries, like finger injuries. 160 00:10:28,720 --> 00:10:33,320 And maybe that's like why they're great World Cup climbers, because they haven't had to 161 00:10:33,320 --> 00:10:37,840 take time off to deal with a finger injury. 162 00:10:37,840 --> 00:10:43,240 But yeah, going back to what you're saying about starting climbing fairly recently compared 163 00:10:43,240 --> 00:10:48,840 to other climbers in like the senior World Cup circuit, what do you feel like you focused 164 00:10:48,840 --> 00:10:53,320 on to get good so fast, especially kind of starting from like zero? 165 00:10:53,320 --> 00:11:00,600 Yeah, so I think what really boosted my career here in Brazil was the fact that I went to 166 00:11:00,600 --> 00:11:08,840 Australia to an exchange program when I was in second year of high school. 167 00:11:08,840 --> 00:11:14,040 So when I was like 16 and I lived there for a year. 168 00:11:14,040 --> 00:11:20,920 And here in Brazil, like we struggle with the fact that the importation taxes to bring 169 00:11:20,920 --> 00:11:23,660 holds to Brazil are really expensive. 170 00:11:23,660 --> 00:11:28,360 And so the gyms here, we mostly have like national hold that are getting really good. 171 00:11:28,360 --> 00:11:33,400 Like recently we have some brands that are like standing out and stuff. 172 00:11:33,400 --> 00:11:38,800 But back in the day when I started, it was hard to have like exposure to like cheetah 173 00:11:38,800 --> 00:11:39,800 flat hold. 174 00:11:39,800 --> 00:11:42,440 We still barely have them here. 175 00:11:42,440 --> 00:11:48,720 And also like movement wise, we didn't have like coordination or slabs and stuff like 176 00:11:48,720 --> 00:11:49,720 that. 177 00:11:49,720 --> 00:11:56,000 So I feel like going to Australia really like opened up my eyes and I was like learning 178 00:11:56,000 --> 00:11:59,780 a whole new like climbing world in 2019. 179 00:11:59,780 --> 00:12:05,720 And I feel like when I came back, I had this advantage over like some other athletes that 180 00:12:05,720 --> 00:12:14,380 were maybe stronger to like have learned so much like technique. 181 00:12:14,380 --> 00:12:18,720 And that's what I feel like I've done in the last like World Cup years as well. 182 00:12:18,720 --> 00:12:22,760 I was just trying to become like a better technical climber. 183 00:12:22,760 --> 00:12:27,960 Like I really focused on slabs and coordination like really trying to understand how my body 184 00:12:27,960 --> 00:12:30,720 moves on the wall. 185 00:12:30,720 --> 00:12:36,560 And I feel like now like in the last year, I feel like I've like got to a point where 186 00:12:36,560 --> 00:12:41,280 I'm like okay that's good but now I need to start focusing more on my power. 187 00:12:41,280 --> 00:12:49,000 So right now like my focus is 100% on getting stronger fingers to be able to like really 188 00:12:49,000 --> 00:12:51,200 be in that semi-finals level. 189 00:12:51,200 --> 00:12:54,560 Yeah, what are like the holds that you were talking about earlier? 190 00:12:54,560 --> 00:12:59,320 Are there any like Brazilian hold brands that we might know of or is it have you never seen 191 00:12:59,320 --> 00:13:01,320 them outside of Brazil? 192 00:13:01,320 --> 00:13:04,080 Yeah, so it's just expanding right now. 193 00:13:04,080 --> 00:13:11,320 We have a brand called Crux and they're like dominating the market here like nationally 194 00:13:11,320 --> 00:13:16,760 right now and they just started selling holds like to the US. 195 00:13:16,760 --> 00:13:23,440 I think they're going to Europe now which is pretty cool to see and because we're having 196 00:13:23,440 --> 00:13:26,360 exciting news, we're having a World Cup here. 197 00:13:26,360 --> 00:13:27,360 Yeah. 198 00:13:27,360 --> 00:13:29,360 They are also gonna be a part of it. 199 00:13:29,360 --> 00:13:34,440 They were able to get like a spot in the IFSC recognized holds. 200 00:13:34,440 --> 00:13:38,800 So I think you guys will all see some Crux holds in the World Cup. 201 00:13:38,800 --> 00:13:41,000 Okay, I'll have to keep an eye out for that. 202 00:13:41,000 --> 00:13:43,120 I'm excited to see some different holds. 203 00:13:43,120 --> 00:13:44,320 That'll be interesting. 204 00:13:44,320 --> 00:13:47,280 I wonder if I've seen them before. 205 00:13:47,280 --> 00:13:53,080 I think they were in the there were a few in the last Pan Am games we had just like 206 00:13:53,080 --> 00:13:54,560 last year in November. 207 00:13:54,560 --> 00:13:59,280 Okay, I might recognize them if I see them again. 208 00:13:59,280 --> 00:14:03,120 And so what did you move to Australia for? 209 00:14:03,120 --> 00:14:06,520 It was just like a school exchange program or? 210 00:14:06,520 --> 00:14:10,400 My parents always thought it was good to do it in a year outside of Brazil. 211 00:14:10,400 --> 00:14:17,560 So like gain experience like life experience and my sister she lives in Australia and so 212 00:14:17,560 --> 00:14:21,240 it was pretty easy to I lived with her. 213 00:14:21,240 --> 00:14:24,920 So yeah, that was a really nice thing as well. 214 00:14:24,920 --> 00:14:27,440 She's like 15 years older than me. 215 00:14:27,440 --> 00:14:28,440 Whoa. 216 00:14:28,440 --> 00:14:30,560 She was almost like a mom for me. 217 00:14:30,560 --> 00:14:31,560 Yeah, wow. 218 00:14:31,560 --> 00:14:32,560 When we were there. 219 00:14:32,560 --> 00:14:33,560 There's difference. 220 00:14:33,560 --> 00:14:38,600 Yeah, and yeah, and it was in fact great. 221 00:14:38,600 --> 00:14:41,320 And I also went there back in 2023. 222 00:14:41,320 --> 00:14:45,920 I was back in Australia for more training because I thought it was a pretty great place 223 00:14:45,920 --> 00:14:49,280 to train and I had like the opportunity to stay in my sister's house. 224 00:14:49,280 --> 00:14:52,080 It was like cheaper than going to Europe. 225 00:14:52,080 --> 00:14:53,760 Yeah, for sure. 226 00:14:53,760 --> 00:14:55,640 Does she also climb or no? 227 00:14:55,640 --> 00:15:01,040 No, she actually used to be a professional ballet dancer. 228 00:15:01,040 --> 00:15:02,040 She danced for Bolshoi. 229 00:15:02,040 --> 00:15:03,600 I don't know if you know it. 230 00:15:03,600 --> 00:15:06,280 It's like a Russian company. 231 00:15:06,280 --> 00:15:07,280 It's pretty big. 232 00:15:07,280 --> 00:15:08,280 Okay, nice. 233 00:15:08,280 --> 00:15:09,280 Yeah. 234 00:15:09,280 --> 00:15:10,280 Have you been to Australia? 235 00:15:10,280 --> 00:15:13,080 No, I've never never been to the Southern Hemisphere. 236 00:15:13,080 --> 00:15:14,720 It's a little far. 237 00:15:14,720 --> 00:15:16,200 Yeah, I guess. 238 00:15:16,200 --> 00:15:19,400 Yeah, Brazil is also in the South. 239 00:15:19,400 --> 00:15:22,480 Yeah, no, it's just it's really far. 240 00:15:22,480 --> 00:15:29,840 Like I'm kind of surprised about how far it is because I've like looked into like flights 241 00:15:29,840 --> 00:15:35,800 to like South America or like Australia and it's always way further than I expected to 242 00:15:35,800 --> 00:15:36,880 be. 243 00:15:36,880 --> 00:15:39,760 And then I and then I back out. 244 00:15:39,760 --> 00:15:42,200 But I do I do want to visit at some point. 245 00:15:42,200 --> 00:15:43,520 Yeah, you should. 246 00:15:43,520 --> 00:15:45,400 But it is pretty far. 247 00:15:45,400 --> 00:15:51,600 Like going from here to Australia, it's normally at least two 12 hour flights. 248 00:15:51,600 --> 00:15:52,600 Yeah, exactly. 249 00:15:52,600 --> 00:15:54,000 Two days traveling. 250 00:15:54,000 --> 00:15:59,040 Like once it gets around like the 20 hours of traveling, I kind of cap out there. 251 00:15:59,040 --> 00:16:01,920 But one day I really should. 252 00:16:01,920 --> 00:16:03,360 Did you get coaching there too? 253 00:16:03,360 --> 00:16:07,720 Or was it just getting like whole practice with different holds? 254 00:16:07,720 --> 00:16:12,440 I was mostly like just so psyched on having like crazy different boulders. 255 00:16:12,440 --> 00:16:19,600 Yeah, so I would like mostly just climb until I had no skin left every single day and try 256 00:16:19,600 --> 00:16:21,180 like all the climbs. 257 00:16:21,180 --> 00:16:27,680 But I did have like a coach back here in Brazil and we would always like talk over the phone, 258 00:16:27,680 --> 00:16:29,920 see how it's going. 259 00:16:29,920 --> 00:16:32,680 So it was nice to have also some guidance out there. 260 00:16:32,680 --> 00:16:40,080 Yeah, so then getting into your World Cup experience, you fairly recently just had your 261 00:16:40,080 --> 00:16:42,720 best World Cup bouldering result in Prague. 262 00:16:42,720 --> 00:16:46,660 I think you came in 35th. 263 00:16:46,660 --> 00:16:49,080 So definitely on the way to making semis. 264 00:16:49,080 --> 00:16:50,080 So congrats on that. 265 00:16:50,080 --> 00:16:51,960 That must be really exciting. 266 00:16:51,960 --> 00:16:55,280 What felt different about that World Cup for you? 267 00:16:55,280 --> 00:17:01,520 About that one in specific, it was right after my knee injury last year as well. 268 00:17:01,520 --> 00:17:05,980 It was like three weeks, maybe four after my knee injury. 269 00:17:05,980 --> 00:17:08,200 And I was in Innsbruck in that time. 270 00:17:08,200 --> 00:17:11,040 And I was like, I decided to stay in Innsbruck. 271 00:17:11,040 --> 00:17:14,380 And I also skipped copper, which was lead. 272 00:17:14,380 --> 00:17:18,640 And I had like this one month to just recover, get stronger. 273 00:17:18,640 --> 00:17:21,180 And I was so focused on it. 274 00:17:21,180 --> 00:17:26,320 And I feel like that really helped me getting stronger, getting really fit. 275 00:17:26,320 --> 00:17:32,280 And being in Innsbruck, you're always surrounded by so many strong climbers that I was able 276 00:17:32,280 --> 00:17:38,600 to maybe start already getting into the World Cup environment before the World Cup. 277 00:17:38,600 --> 00:17:40,400 So I feel like that helped me. 278 00:17:40,400 --> 00:17:46,060 Every day I was seeing someone pushing the limits of what I thought it was possible. 279 00:17:46,060 --> 00:17:51,800 And I had like really hard blocks every day to train on. 280 00:17:51,800 --> 00:17:54,640 And I feel like Prague was also an experiment. 281 00:17:54,640 --> 00:17:59,280 Like I'm coming back from an injury, so I have no high expectations. 282 00:17:59,280 --> 00:18:02,840 But at the same time, I know I'm feeling strong. 283 00:18:02,840 --> 00:18:07,240 And the round also suited me. 284 00:18:07,240 --> 00:18:12,280 So I feel like it was like a combo of all those things. 285 00:18:12,280 --> 00:18:19,840 And yeah, I think that was also the second best result we had like nationally for Brazil. 286 00:18:19,840 --> 00:18:20,840 Nice. 287 00:18:20,840 --> 00:18:22,600 So I was pretty psyched on it. 288 00:18:22,600 --> 00:18:24,880 How was your knee feeling at that time? 289 00:18:24,880 --> 00:18:26,640 I competed with a knee brace. 290 00:18:26,640 --> 00:18:28,280 I don't know if that's the name. 291 00:18:28,280 --> 00:18:29,280 Oh, wow. 292 00:18:29,280 --> 00:18:30,280 Really? 293 00:18:30,280 --> 00:18:31,280 Okay. 294 00:18:31,280 --> 00:18:32,280 Yeah. 295 00:18:32,280 --> 00:18:37,360 We had to ask for like a special like require to be able to use it. 296 00:18:37,360 --> 00:18:41,040 So with it, I was feeling pretty confident. 297 00:18:41,040 --> 00:18:48,560 Luckily, I didn't have to do any extraneous heel hooks on my left leg. 298 00:18:48,560 --> 00:18:51,760 So it ended up being fine. 299 00:18:51,760 --> 00:18:56,800 It was just a bit unfortunate because one of the boulders, you had to like do a double 300 00:18:56,800 --> 00:19:02,320 jump into a pinch like for the top and it was pretty high up and kind of sideways. 301 00:19:02,320 --> 00:19:09,440 And the first time I got to it, I like fell like super bad, falling like twisting. 302 00:19:09,440 --> 00:19:16,000 And that got a bit into my mind and I was like in the mats thinking like, I know I can 303 00:19:16,000 --> 00:19:22,440 send this, but I don't know if I want to risk my knee right now because I had pen amps coming 304 00:19:22,440 --> 00:19:23,600 up. 305 00:19:23,600 --> 00:19:27,560 And so I decided to like not try the boulder again. 306 00:19:27,560 --> 00:19:31,080 And maybe if I did, I would have been in semis. 307 00:19:31,080 --> 00:19:32,080 Oh, wow. 308 00:19:32,080 --> 00:19:34,800 Well, there's still there's next times. 309 00:19:34,800 --> 00:19:37,560 There's lots of workups coming up. 310 00:19:37,560 --> 00:19:42,320 The knee brace, was it like still a hard brace or was it just like some like does it actually 311 00:19:42,320 --> 00:19:50,120 keep your knee in place or is it kind of just like that mental like awareness of your knee? 312 00:19:50,120 --> 00:20:00,080 It's like a sock, but it has like two hard plastic things on the sides that also move 313 00:20:00,080 --> 00:20:01,680 on the center of the knee. 314 00:20:01,680 --> 00:20:05,600 So they like stabilize when you fall. 315 00:20:05,600 --> 00:20:10,360 So it like gives you a bit, they work kind of as ligament. 316 00:20:10,360 --> 00:20:14,640 So it just makes your knee stable when you're not fully stable yet. 317 00:20:14,640 --> 00:20:15,640 Yeah. 318 00:20:15,640 --> 00:20:20,760 I mean, impressive to get that result with a knee brace on. 319 00:20:20,760 --> 00:20:26,080 What do you feel like you need to focus more on in order to make semis like this season? 320 00:20:26,080 --> 00:20:32,280 I feel like I've been on a good path right now, like looking up my results from the last 321 00:20:32,280 --> 00:20:36,360 like I've been on the circuit for three years, I think. 322 00:20:36,360 --> 00:20:39,320 And first World Cup, I was like lost place. 323 00:20:39,320 --> 00:20:40,320 Sure. 324 00:20:40,320 --> 00:20:41,840 Understand. 325 00:20:41,840 --> 00:20:43,360 And I've been building up. 326 00:20:43,360 --> 00:20:47,720 So I feel like this 35th place also built up my confidence a lot. 327 00:20:47,720 --> 00:20:57,480 It's hard to be in South America and not having like not having like hard blocks to train 328 00:20:57,480 --> 00:21:05,560 on and seeing like strong people doing impossible things every day and still believing that 329 00:21:05,560 --> 00:21:06,600 we can do it. 330 00:21:06,600 --> 00:21:13,720 I feel like in South America, we need to start believing more in ourselves like all athletes 331 00:21:13,720 --> 00:21:17,440 because of course we have less resources. 332 00:21:17,440 --> 00:21:22,580 We don't have the structure or the time of the sport being developed in the country for 333 00:21:22,580 --> 00:21:24,040 so long. 334 00:21:24,040 --> 00:21:27,320 But I feel like we have fight in ourselves. 335 00:21:27,320 --> 00:21:30,760 We have the fight to do it. 336 00:21:30,760 --> 00:21:35,600 And I feel like I gained technique in the last few years as I said, and now I feel like 337 00:21:35,600 --> 00:21:39,180 I just need a bit more power. 338 00:21:39,180 --> 00:21:45,080 So that's what I'm working on right now, getting more fit, stronger, stronger fingers. 339 00:21:45,080 --> 00:21:46,600 And I think I can do it. 340 00:21:46,600 --> 00:21:52,920 Yeah, I mean, you mentioned that it's like hard for you to get difficult enough sets 341 00:21:52,920 --> 00:21:58,960 in the gym and that there's not as many other like strong climbers to, I guess, motivate 342 00:21:58,960 --> 00:21:59,960 you. 343 00:21:59,960 --> 00:22:05,600 I definitely understand like the need to like see someone doing something better than you 344 00:22:05,600 --> 00:22:12,620 to like get the psych up and get that like competitive mindset going. 345 00:22:12,620 --> 00:22:16,680 Have you considered living abroad for more practice? 346 00:22:16,680 --> 00:22:19,400 I had for sure. 347 00:22:19,400 --> 00:22:24,640 There's a few factors like it's pretty expensive for us like the dollar right now is like six 348 00:22:24,640 --> 00:22:27,320 to one. 349 00:22:27,320 --> 00:22:31,480 And it's like I always use like this example. 350 00:22:31,480 --> 00:22:37,640 I think it's a good example to measure things like a climbing shoe here for us like a Scarpa 351 00:22:37,640 --> 00:22:42,040 shoe like a Drago for example that is what I compete on. 352 00:22:42,040 --> 00:22:50,160 Costs a thousand and three hundred reais for us when you convert it and that's like the 353 00:22:50,160 --> 00:22:53,680 same as the minimum wage here in Brazil. 354 00:22:53,680 --> 00:22:59,340 So like a climbing shoe costs like same or more than the minimum wage someone gets paid 355 00:22:59,340 --> 00:23:00,920 here for a month. 356 00:23:00,920 --> 00:23:06,760 So it's like pretty expensive like the gear and that's why also the holds are so expensive 357 00:23:06,760 --> 00:23:08,600 for the gyms. 358 00:23:08,600 --> 00:23:15,520 But I got to say that it's been a really good few years like the gyms here are growing so 359 00:23:15,520 --> 00:23:20,420 much like the development in our country is like beautiful to see right now. 360 00:23:20,420 --> 00:23:26,760 And the Federation just built us a very, very good training center and that's where we hosted 361 00:23:26,760 --> 00:23:34,360 like South American Championships and that's where we will be hosting the World Cup. 362 00:23:34,360 --> 00:23:39,040 So I feel like we're getting there and with the World Cup as well we're gonna get like 363 00:23:39,040 --> 00:23:42,040 more holds to train on. 364 00:23:42,040 --> 00:23:49,160 And also something that really inspired me last year was my friend from Chile, Benjamin 365 00:23:49,160 --> 00:23:50,160 Vargas. 366 00:23:50,160 --> 00:23:53,240 I don't know if you've heard of him. 367 00:23:53,240 --> 00:23:58,720 He was the first South American to make STEMIs in a bouldering World Cup and he did it last 368 00:23:58,720 --> 00:24:01,000 year in Salt Lake. 369 00:24:01,000 --> 00:24:07,400 So I was like so psyched for him and I feel like that was also like a boost that like, 370 00:24:07,400 --> 00:24:10,000 yeah, let's do it like the South Americans can do it. 371 00:24:10,000 --> 00:24:14,000 Bang Ha, he just did it so we can all do it too. 372 00:24:14,000 --> 00:24:15,000 Yeah. 373 00:24:15,000 --> 00:24:22,480 So then how do you get like World Cup level difficulty practice at your home gym? 374 00:24:22,480 --> 00:24:33,560 To be honest, we don't get like blocks normally on the gym sets which is like understandable. 375 00:24:33,560 --> 00:24:38,960 Like the level here is not that high to have like and we don't have as much resources to 376 00:24:38,960 --> 00:24:42,560 like do it on the gym sets. 377 00:24:42,560 --> 00:24:49,360 So we normally just like create boulders on top of the other boulders like mixing holds 378 00:24:49,360 --> 00:24:55,760 and we have like a training area, a little training area now that the gym I train on. 379 00:24:55,760 --> 00:25:00,960 It's like really, really nice to build a small space where we could like have like a spray 380 00:25:00,960 --> 00:25:07,120 wall and a slab wall and we can like we're free there to set whatever we want. 381 00:25:07,120 --> 00:25:09,540 We have a lot of holds there. 382 00:25:09,540 --> 00:25:14,680 So now we're using that little training area but of course it's like hard to compare with 383 00:25:14,680 --> 00:25:20,160 like the French team that have like three, four training centers and all the holds are 384 00:25:20,160 --> 00:25:25,800 in Europe, everything is there but yeah it's a hard comparison to make. 385 00:25:25,800 --> 00:25:26,800 Yeah. 386 00:25:26,800 --> 00:25:33,040 So it's kind of up to you to build hard climbs for yourself on a spray wall. 387 00:25:33,040 --> 00:25:34,040 Yeah. 388 00:25:34,040 --> 00:25:39,760 And we're like fortunate enough that the federation helps us travel because they know that we 389 00:25:39,760 --> 00:25:43,720 need to train on that structure at least for a few periods of the year. 390 00:25:43,720 --> 00:25:47,040 So our federation really helps sending us like to Europe to training. 391 00:25:47,040 --> 00:25:51,160 Like I said I was in Innsbruck for a month when I injured my knee. 392 00:25:51,160 --> 00:25:53,480 I was there training. 393 00:25:53,480 --> 00:25:58,180 Every time we go to Salt Lake for the World Cups we often try to stay at least like two 394 00:25:58,180 --> 00:26:04,440 weeks before and then two weeks after to get some training done too and that's how we kind 395 00:26:04,440 --> 00:26:06,400 of like deal with it. 396 00:26:06,400 --> 00:26:07,400 Yeah. 397 00:26:07,400 --> 00:26:09,560 I'm sure that really does help a lot. 398 00:26:09,560 --> 00:26:15,520 I think something interesting that you mentioned is that you do get a stipend for being an 399 00:26:15,520 --> 00:26:20,320 athlete whereas a lot of climbers from even like bigger climbing federations don't get 400 00:26:20,320 --> 00:26:28,000 that kind of support and I guess they also like help like fund your stays in other countries 401 00:26:28,000 --> 00:26:32,040 for like training before and after World Cups. 402 00:26:32,040 --> 00:26:36,680 I guess how does that like funding work in Brazil because it seems like it's really nice 403 00:26:36,680 --> 00:26:40,000 that they're putting a lot of money into the sport. 404 00:26:40,000 --> 00:26:47,480 Yeah so since it became an Olympic sport we're now like the federation is now like attached 405 00:26:47,480 --> 00:26:54,360 I don't know the word exactly like with the Olympic committee and so every Olympic sport 406 00:26:54,360 --> 00:27:01,360 gets like a funding from the Olympic committee per year and that funding has to be distributed 407 00:27:01,360 --> 00:27:11,200 in like different areas and so they're able to like use some of that funding to like explain 408 00:27:11,200 --> 00:27:17,600 that okay so we don't have as much structure here yet and those training programs are really 409 00:27:17,600 --> 00:27:23,720 essential to get our athletes to the level they need to and so they're able to explain 410 00:27:23,720 --> 00:27:29,120 it and that's how we can do the training camps but I'm still like so happy they're able to 411 00:27:29,120 --> 00:27:34,680 do it because as you said like I know that it's a pretty rare thing to have the federation 412 00:27:34,680 --> 00:27:38,520 paying for the athletes to train outside. 413 00:27:38,520 --> 00:27:44,560 Yeah and then in terms of like the like the athlete stipend you get is that your main 414 00:27:44,560 --> 00:27:49,280 source of income or do you also do like other like coaching on the side or anything like 415 00:27:49,280 --> 00:27:50,280 that? 416 00:27:50,280 --> 00:27:57,760 Yeah so I do some settings here in the gyms or commercial sets and I also get money from 417 00:27:57,760 --> 00:28:04,640 the government like for being an athlete right now for having like South American and Pan 418 00:28:04,640 --> 00:28:10,000 American results you get international it's like a salary that you get for being in for 419 00:28:10,000 --> 00:28:13,640 having international results as an athlete. 420 00:28:13,640 --> 00:28:18,760 You get that income from the government and then I also have it from the federation and 421 00:28:18,760 --> 00:28:22,180 from like one or two private sponsors. 422 00:28:22,180 --> 00:28:29,220 You mentioned that you do like some setting also for some income. 423 00:28:29,220 --> 00:28:33,840 Do you feel like the setting helps with your climbing or does it kind of just tire you 424 00:28:33,840 --> 00:28:35,900 out in a different way? 425 00:28:35,900 --> 00:28:39,080 It's for sure a bit of both. 426 00:28:39,080 --> 00:28:46,200 I always do get tired from setting and that affects a bit my training because it's like 427 00:28:46,200 --> 00:28:53,400 it's hard work but at the same time it's like money that's pretty important to me so I can't 428 00:28:53,400 --> 00:28:58,640 like not do it and I do feel that it helps me getting in the mind of the root setters 429 00:28:58,640 --> 00:29:00,720 when I'm also in a competition. 430 00:29:00,720 --> 00:29:05,640 I feel like it helps me know what they expect from the athletes and what they're trying 431 00:29:05,640 --> 00:29:07,760 to trick us into thinking. 432 00:29:07,760 --> 00:29:11,400 What kind of stuff do you like to set? 433 00:29:11,400 --> 00:29:19,440 I really love slabs, like I feel like that's my strong suit in my climbing as well and 434 00:29:19,440 --> 00:29:24,800 I also really enjoy like feet coordination and coordination in general. 435 00:29:24,800 --> 00:29:31,120 So what I like to set here in Brazil, it's normally new school stuff because that's the 436 00:29:31,120 --> 00:29:33,720 thing we have the least here. 437 00:29:33,720 --> 00:29:39,240 Normally the gym sets are very like rock climbing based because rock climbing here is like a 438 00:29:39,240 --> 00:29:46,280 big thing and we have really good rock here so I always try to bring like new stuff, movements 439 00:29:46,280 --> 00:29:52,940 that I've seen in world cups like in an easier version and it's like it's always taken as 440 00:29:52,940 --> 00:29:59,280 well sometimes in a bad way but then it ends up being positive because I think it's something 441 00:29:59,280 --> 00:30:06,240 new so people are like oh we don't like this jumpy jumpy stuff but in the end they always 442 00:30:06,240 --> 00:30:11,320 learn something new and then they start enjoying it so I guess it's nice to have it in the 443 00:30:11,320 --> 00:30:12,320 gym. 444 00:30:12,320 --> 00:30:17,840 It's interesting that you get that feedback but I'm glad you're able to change their minds 445 00:30:17,840 --> 00:30:20,360 about it I guess. 446 00:30:20,360 --> 00:30:26,200 So yeah like I said earlier unfortunately I don't know too much about like climbing 447 00:30:26,200 --> 00:30:32,200 in South America or Brazil and also Brazil is like a massive country. 448 00:30:32,200 --> 00:30:36,440 Is there like a main climbing city for indoor like outdoor climbing? 449 00:30:36,440 --> 00:30:43,320 Yeah so I would say the cities that stand out the most like in terms of like number 450 00:30:43,320 --> 00:30:52,960 of climbing gyms and where most of the strong athletes are is São Paulo which is where 451 00:30:52,960 --> 00:30:54,680 I live, where I train. 452 00:30:54,680 --> 00:30:56,640 We have Fabrica here. 453 00:30:56,640 --> 00:30:59,360 It's a gym that's been growing a lot. 454 00:30:59,360 --> 00:31:02,280 It's owned by Felipe Camargo. 455 00:31:02,280 --> 00:31:09,320 He's like a red bull athlete, pretty like strong rock climber. 456 00:31:09,320 --> 00:31:11,680 He really pushed the limits for us as well. 457 00:31:11,680 --> 00:31:18,840 He's climbed like 9B outdoors and V15. 458 00:31:18,840 --> 00:31:25,880 And he owns this gym that has three locations here in São Paulo and then we also have Belo 459 00:31:25,880 --> 00:31:30,280 Horizonte which is in Minas Gerais. 460 00:31:30,280 --> 00:31:36,600 They also have a lot of gyms but our training center is in a city called Curitiba. 461 00:31:36,600 --> 00:31:40,840 That's where the World Cup will be and they also have like three or four pretty good gyms 462 00:31:40,840 --> 00:31:41,840 there. 463 00:31:41,840 --> 00:31:46,360 So I would say these are the three main like cities for climbing here. 464 00:31:46,360 --> 00:31:50,600 Are those cities like also good for outdoor climbing or you mentioned that there's good 465 00:31:50,600 --> 00:31:52,480 rock somewhere? 466 00:31:52,480 --> 00:31:57,800 That's something that is really, really, really big in Brazil and I wish more people would 467 00:31:57,800 --> 00:32:05,100 come here to climb outdoors because our gym like scene is still developing a lot. 468 00:32:05,100 --> 00:32:11,080 It's still growing but rock climbing wise, we have like so many nice crags. 469 00:32:11,080 --> 00:32:13,540 There's like two places. 470 00:32:13,540 --> 00:32:18,400 One is called Milho Verde and the other one is called Igatu. 471 00:32:18,400 --> 00:32:24,240 They were both like featured in a North Face video with Daniel Woods and Juliana called 472 00:32:24,240 --> 00:32:25,240 Night Moves. 473 00:32:25,240 --> 00:32:27,160 I don't know if you've watched it. 474 00:32:27,160 --> 00:32:30,040 I haven't watched that one but… 475 00:32:30,040 --> 00:32:35,760 They talked like how it's like as big as Rocklands like both places. 476 00:32:35,760 --> 00:32:42,860 It's like endless rock, endless like possibilities but there's just like not enough climbers 477 00:32:42,860 --> 00:32:45,960 out here to open to make the first ascent. 478 00:32:45,960 --> 00:32:51,640 So, we have like these incredible places that just need like strong climbers to come out 479 00:32:51,640 --> 00:32:53,200 here and send everything. 480 00:32:53,200 --> 00:32:59,440 I haven't seen the video but I'll have to link it in the description and take a look. 481 00:32:59,440 --> 00:33:03,600 Do you have any interest in like developing these areas in the future? 482 00:33:03,600 --> 00:33:04,600 Yeah, for sure. 483 00:33:04,600 --> 00:33:11,680 Like rock climbing is also how I fell even more in love with the sport and it's something 484 00:33:11,680 --> 00:33:18,600 that we even do here sometimes to get that like try hard feeling as we don't have it 485 00:33:18,600 --> 00:33:20,120 like as much in the gyms. 486 00:33:20,120 --> 00:33:25,560 I often like to go try like hard projects outdoor to get me feeling like strong on my 487 00:33:25,560 --> 00:33:30,080 fingers and getting that try hard in my mind before a comp. 488 00:33:30,080 --> 00:33:35,000 So I feel like that's a strategy we often use here as well. 489 00:33:35,000 --> 00:33:40,760 And right now what I think as well it's like I don't do as many rock trips as I would 490 00:33:40,760 --> 00:33:46,120 like to but I always think like well the rocks they're always gonna be there, they're not 491 00:33:46,120 --> 00:33:52,920 going anywhere whereas the comps like my climbing career as like a comp athlete it's gonna end 492 00:33:52,920 --> 00:33:58,520 like at some point and I'm gonna be way stronger by then and the rocks are still gonna be there. 493 00:33:58,520 --> 00:34:05,760 So like I'm just like not yet doing those climbing trips outdoors as much. 494 00:34:05,760 --> 00:34:10,880 Yeah, you mentioned that like outdoor rock climbing also kind of helps you get in the 495 00:34:10,880 --> 00:34:13,640 try hard mentality for comps. 496 00:34:13,640 --> 00:34:16,000 Do you feel like it does? 497 00:34:16,000 --> 00:34:20,840 I guess I wonder how much it translates because there's sort of like a different mentality 498 00:34:20,840 --> 00:34:26,920 outside compared to comps where like outside like you said it's always gonna be there whereas 499 00:34:26,920 --> 00:34:30,800 at comps you really only get a few attempts. 500 00:34:30,800 --> 00:34:36,320 So do you kind of try to like bring that comp mindset to outdoor climbing or does it just 501 00:34:36,320 --> 00:34:38,320 like help in different ways? 502 00:34:38,320 --> 00:34:46,440 For sure the comp mindset helped me a few times outdoors where I was like not doing 503 00:34:46,440 --> 00:34:52,040 a climb and then I just like centered out and I was like okay imagine I'm like in a 504 00:34:52,040 --> 00:34:57,920 competition this is the last boulder like for me to get a gold and just try to enter 505 00:34:57,920 --> 00:35:01,200 in that mentality and it made me send the boulder. 506 00:35:01,200 --> 00:35:08,120 So I feel like both ways translate well and also when I'm outdoors I feel like those are 507 00:35:08,120 --> 00:35:16,920 the moments that I really feel connected like with how I started climbing and really connected 508 00:35:16,920 --> 00:35:24,880 with myself just being out in nature you know touching some rocks it's like it really brings 509 00:35:24,880 --> 00:35:30,600 me back to like my core and I feel like that helps me just train harder for the next few 510 00:35:30,600 --> 00:35:37,840 weeks and also just like how the rock is formed is like you can't just change a few screws 511 00:35:37,840 --> 00:35:41,920 and the hold is gonna twist a little bit or you can make the boulder easier. 512 00:35:41,920 --> 00:35:49,720 It just is as it is so either try it really hard or you're not gonna send it and I feel 513 00:35:49,720 --> 00:35:54,400 like that's what I get a lot from the rocks when I go outside. 514 00:35:54,400 --> 00:35:55,680 I don't know if it makes this. 515 00:35:55,680 --> 00:35:58,520 I'm sure some people would relate to it yeah. 516 00:35:58,520 --> 00:36:04,400 I have like a very backwards thinking where I just I don't really like climbing outside 517 00:36:04,400 --> 00:36:10,680 and I don't feel connected to nature so it like it never translates for me but I know 518 00:36:10,680 --> 00:36:17,560 for a lot of people it does so I think other people will relate to that better. 519 00:36:17,560 --> 00:36:23,240 Just going back to like the bouldering world cup that's gonna take place in Curitiba do 520 00:36:23,240 --> 00:36:28,600 you think you're gonna feel like a hometown advantage or are you gonna feel like pressure 521 00:36:28,600 --> 00:36:30,600 that you have to perform? 522 00:36:30,600 --> 00:36:33,720 I feel like pressure will come. 523 00:36:33,720 --> 00:36:40,760 Right now I'm not feeling it but I know for a fact that everyone that climbs here in Brazil 524 00:36:40,760 --> 00:36:43,720 is going to Curitiba to watch the world cup. 525 00:36:43,720 --> 00:36:49,200 It's gonna be like a big thing like having the first world cup in South America so for 526 00:36:49,200 --> 00:36:51,560 sure it's gonna be a great event. 527 00:36:51,560 --> 00:36:59,440 I really hope like all the athletes come and compete and I feel like I will have for sure 528 00:36:59,440 --> 00:37:04,480 like support from the crowd and that's gonna like like me up so much. 529 00:37:04,480 --> 00:37:06,920 It has been psyching me up this year. 530 00:37:06,920 --> 00:37:13,320 I'm like I'm feeling really focused on training and having the world cup in my mind is really 531 00:37:13,320 --> 00:37:19,600 helping me like train hard every day so I feel like not even just on the comp but also 532 00:37:19,600 --> 00:37:25,560 like in this pre-season moment it's been helping me to know that I'm gonna have a world cup 533 00:37:25,560 --> 00:37:26,560 in my country. 534 00:37:26,560 --> 00:37:30,000 How like is the climbing community big? 535 00:37:30,000 --> 00:37:33,400 Like you think it'll be like a huge showing people are gonna be loud the crowd's gonna 536 00:37:33,400 --> 00:37:34,640 be like crazy? 537 00:37:34,640 --> 00:37:45,000 I feel like Brazilian people they're all very like loud like happy and festive so I feel 538 00:37:45,000 --> 00:37:47,760 like it's gonna be very nice. 539 00:37:47,760 --> 00:37:54,200 I don't think it would be like as many people as like an Innsbruck World Cup or like Chamonix 540 00:37:54,200 --> 00:38:00,720 just because it's been there for so many years but I really hope we make like a good event 541 00:38:00,720 --> 00:38:03,680 and that it happens again in the next years. 542 00:38:03,680 --> 00:38:06,560 Yeah well I hope it'll be a good time. 543 00:38:06,560 --> 00:38:09,400 How does like crowd noise influence you? 544 00:38:09,400 --> 00:38:13,640 Because I've only been to like a couple world cups in person. 545 00:38:13,640 --> 00:38:22,520 I went to one in China where it was like pretty quiet so the yeah the atmosphere was like 546 00:38:22,520 --> 00:38:28,080 kind of weird feeling I think and I went to like the Salt Lake one where it was a lot 547 00:38:28,080 --> 00:38:31,800 louder but I haven't been to like any European ones. 548 00:38:31,800 --> 00:38:35,920 Yeah how does crowd noise affect your performance? 549 00:38:35,920 --> 00:38:46,680 Normally like of course I hear something here and there like very very it's not that often 550 00:38:46,680 --> 00:38:52,800 because normally when I go into the meds I fully tunnel vision and like every time we 551 00:38:52,800 --> 00:38:59,560 do like athletes presentation before starting like a boulder final for example I feel like 552 00:38:59,560 --> 00:39:05,120 I normally don't see anyone it's just like a black wall in front of me I'm just looking 553 00:39:05,120 --> 00:39:11,480 at the clock and really really focus on boulders I feel like that's something that I can do 554 00:39:11,480 --> 00:39:17,480 pretty well like 100% focusing on the climbs. 555 00:39:17,480 --> 00:39:24,720 Of course when I send them I really like to cheer on and look back and see everyone but 556 00:39:24,720 --> 00:39:27,680 coming into the next boulder is like same feeling. 557 00:39:27,680 --> 00:39:32,680 Going back into mindset I feel like a few times you mentioned that you don't think you're 558 00:39:32,680 --> 00:39:39,760 the strongest climber so you focus more on mindset and routines and body movement so 559 00:39:39,760 --> 00:39:45,680 I guess like first of all why don't you think you're very strong? 560 00:39:45,680 --> 00:39:49,340 Please excuse this brief intermission but if you're interested in deleted scenes from 561 00:39:49,340 --> 00:39:54,980 this episode where we talk about what grade he climbs at B-Pump and also my competition 562 00:39:54,980 --> 00:40:00,120 experience do consider helping support this podcast on Patreon. 563 00:40:00,120 --> 00:40:05,200 Some other perks include a membership pin shipped to you after two months, prioritized 564 00:40:05,200 --> 00:40:10,400 guest questions or the ability to submit video questions and more to come. 565 00:40:10,400 --> 00:40:16,160 The proceeds go back into the podcast to help me break even and they help me improve the 566 00:40:16,160 --> 00:40:18,520 experience of the guests. 567 00:40:18,520 --> 00:40:23,620 If you'd like to help out non-monetarily, liking, commenting and sharing helps a great 568 00:40:23,620 --> 00:40:25,120 deal as well. 569 00:40:25,120 --> 00:40:26,280 Back to the show! 570 00:40:26,280 --> 00:40:35,960 I think it has something to do with like starting to climb very chubby and always being like 571 00:40:35,960 --> 00:40:42,360 bigger than the other guys that has always like affected me mentally like it's a bit 572 00:40:42,360 --> 00:40:48,800 of a struggle like always feeling fat and stuff like that and that makes me not feel 573 00:40:48,800 --> 00:40:52,560 like as strong. 574 00:40:52,560 --> 00:40:57,720 But I also do believe that like just in training when we go training together for example me 575 00:40:57,720 --> 00:41:05,400 and my other teammates, Felipe and Samuka for example, they're like insanely strong 576 00:41:05,400 --> 00:41:12,100 like we've trained like with other teams and the coaches everyone always says like how 577 00:41:12,100 --> 00:41:15,800 crazy strong they are. 578 00:41:15,800 --> 00:41:20,440 They really really stand out like when it comes to power. 579 00:41:20,440 --> 00:41:27,200 And so like every time we spray SESH or just kill Ter SESH, I always get destroyed by them 580 00:41:27,200 --> 00:41:31,360 like they're really really strong. 581 00:41:31,360 --> 00:41:36,920 But then in comps like in the last few years, I've won nationals and South American Cups 582 00:41:36,920 --> 00:41:44,840 and stuff and that kept like that kept me thinking like that maybe that's why. 583 00:41:44,840 --> 00:41:47,640 So like how I always like focused. 584 00:41:47,640 --> 00:41:51,520 I knew that I wasn't the strongest in the sessions and that I couldn't beat them on 585 00:41:51,520 --> 00:41:54,040 spray walls and stuff like that. 586 00:41:54,040 --> 00:41:56,400 So I was like I went the other way. 587 00:41:56,400 --> 00:42:02,360 I was like okay if I can't beat them right now on this point like if I can't beat them 588 00:42:02,360 --> 00:42:08,480 on a spray wall, if I can't be stronger, then I'm gonna be like that I'm gonna be the strongest 589 00:42:08,480 --> 00:42:10,520 in everything else. 590 00:42:10,520 --> 00:42:16,880 And I feel like that's when I started reading a lot of books about meditation and how to 591 00:42:16,880 --> 00:42:20,480 like have a stronger mindset. 592 00:42:20,480 --> 00:42:26,760 There's like a really good books that I've read about flow stage and I feel like that 593 00:42:26,760 --> 00:42:29,800 really helped me. 594 00:42:29,800 --> 00:42:36,960 And I feel like that came as well from having I wouldn't call it a therapist but I've worked 595 00:42:36,960 --> 00:42:46,000 when I was younger with this woman called Esther and she would teach me how to like 596 00:42:46,000 --> 00:42:52,920 at a very young age when I was eight or nine just exercises on how to like manipulate my 597 00:42:52,920 --> 00:42:58,680 own brain in ways that would help me like strive in different areas of my life. 598 00:42:58,680 --> 00:43:06,040 So like different exercises to like overcome fear or to be more focused in school and I 599 00:43:06,040 --> 00:43:11,880 feel like all of those exercises translated really well to my climbing like competition 600 00:43:11,880 --> 00:43:13,160 mindset. 601 00:43:13,160 --> 00:43:19,280 There's like I have like maybe four or five exercises that I always do before answering 602 00:43:19,280 --> 00:43:28,760 a boulder round and I don't see many athletes doing like a very specific mindset routine 603 00:43:28,760 --> 00:43:30,880 before entering the rounds. 604 00:43:30,880 --> 00:43:32,360 What are those exercises? 605 00:43:32,360 --> 00:43:37,720 Yeah, so there's one where I do like it's like some pretty basic stuff that look kind 606 00:43:37,720 --> 00:43:42,360 of dumb but really work for me. 607 00:43:42,360 --> 00:43:46,800 One of them is like just putting my fingers in front of me like this and then opening 608 00:43:46,800 --> 00:43:55,120 up all the way to like my sides and that helps me like being focused on what I'm doing but 609 00:43:55,120 --> 00:44:00,920 still being aware of the whole boulder like and for example, before visualization of the 610 00:44:00,920 --> 00:44:05,440 climbs, I always like to do that because I'm like reading exactly what I need to do but 611 00:44:05,440 --> 00:44:10,620 that helps me like as I have like a panoramic view, it helps me come back and remember the 612 00:44:10,620 --> 00:44:17,280 whole climb, remember maybe a put hold that I didn't see, stuff like that. 613 00:44:17,280 --> 00:44:23,360 Another thing that I like to do is like I close my fist and I close my eyes and I remember 614 00:44:23,360 --> 00:44:30,480 like all the good moments I've had in comps like amazing tops or buzzer beaters or like 615 00:44:30,480 --> 00:44:36,960 remembering myself on a podium that I was really psyched on and I do that like over 616 00:44:36,960 --> 00:44:43,840 a few weeks before a comp and every time I close my fist and so my brain like associates 617 00:44:43,840 --> 00:44:49,840 those feelings with closing my fist and so right before going into the round, I don't 618 00:44:49,840 --> 00:44:55,320 have to like think of all those things and really close my eyes and remember all those 619 00:44:55,320 --> 00:44:56,320 things. 620 00:44:56,320 --> 00:45:01,440 I just close my fist with the intention of closing my fist and I already like I feel 621 00:45:01,440 --> 00:45:06,300 like this fire coming inside of me of all those moments that I was memorizing before 622 00:45:06,300 --> 00:45:07,880 going into the round. 623 00:45:07,880 --> 00:45:11,200 So that's also something that like really really helps me. 624 00:45:11,200 --> 00:45:17,680 I really feel like so much more energized before going into the round when I do this 625 00:45:17,680 --> 00:45:24,160 and yeah and a few other things that I feel like helped me a lot came from Esther. 626 00:45:24,160 --> 00:45:31,160 Yeah, I love like remembering I don't know just like great climbing moments but I can't 627 00:45:31,160 --> 00:45:35,600 always remember them off the top of my head so yeah maybe I need to try that and get the 628 00:45:35,600 --> 00:45:36,600 psych up. 629 00:45:36,600 --> 00:45:44,040 Yeah, are there any like I guess you mentioned she was kind of like a therapist to you. 630 00:45:44,040 --> 00:45:51,120 Are there any like non-climbing related things you learned that you'd want to share? 631 00:45:51,120 --> 00:46:00,520 It was a very long time ago so it's like hard to remember like specific things that we learned 632 00:46:00,520 --> 00:46:08,280 together that helped me but I can just say like for sure I became a better person and 633 00:46:08,280 --> 00:46:10,200 just learned so much about myself. 634 00:46:10,200 --> 00:46:14,920 I still do like we still have appointments here and there when I feel like I need to 635 00:46:14,920 --> 00:46:24,640 follow like something in my climbing that's not going well and yeah I feel like trying 636 00:46:24,640 --> 00:46:32,040 to always look not only like when you're struggling to like get over like a lip in your climbing 637 00:46:32,040 --> 00:46:37,460 like when you're stuck in a grade and you want to push yourself, I feel like often it's 638 00:46:37,460 --> 00:46:43,840 not just getting stronger it's like there's so many areas that you can look on before 639 00:46:43,840 --> 00:46:48,360 just going like I need to do more pull-ups. 640 00:46:48,360 --> 00:46:54,440 So yeah I feel like that's what helped me like doing more mental strategies and working 641 00:46:54,440 --> 00:47:00,920 more on technique, focusing more on my diet, how I'm sleeping that for sure everything 642 00:47:00,920 --> 00:47:03,760 affects your performance. 643 00:47:03,760 --> 00:47:09,740 Yeah I feel like a lot of people often just feel like they should just get strong instead 644 00:47:09,740 --> 00:47:15,280 of working on like mindset or movement or anything like that first. 645 00:47:15,280 --> 00:47:20,920 I guess are there any like strength metrics you want to get out there like maybe if people 646 00:47:20,920 --> 00:47:26,200 hear that they're around a similar like strength level to you they'll feel inspired to like 647 00:47:26,200 --> 00:47:29,160 work on their mindset or movement. 648 00:47:29,160 --> 00:47:38,240 Yeah so like something funny that I've always knew was like I still I can barely do a one 649 00:47:38,240 --> 00:47:42,840 arm pull-up right now like it's something that I struggle on. 650 00:47:42,840 --> 00:47:49,880 Bout levers are pretty hard too and it's like I didn't do a one arm pull-up before being 651 00:47:49,880 --> 00:47:56,800 able to like win nationals or send like my first V13 outdoors. 652 00:47:56,800 --> 00:48:03,160 So it's like I feel like you can gain so much just from learning movement, learning how 653 00:48:03,160 --> 00:48:10,200 to move better on the wall, how to use your hips, your legs before you need to do those 654 00:48:10,200 --> 00:48:11,200 things. 655 00:48:11,200 --> 00:48:17,240 It helps and of course that's like what I need to work on right now and I do get inspired 656 00:48:17,240 --> 00:48:23,760 by people who can do like crazy things on like the Q2 board. 657 00:48:23,760 --> 00:48:25,440 But yeah I feel like it's not everything. 658 00:48:25,440 --> 00:48:28,520 Okay well yeah that's what everyone should hear. 659 00:48:28,520 --> 00:48:33,840 You should be able to climb at least V13 even if you can't do a one arm pull-up. 660 00:48:33,840 --> 00:48:37,280 I think that's the story to get out there. 661 00:48:37,280 --> 00:48:42,520 And one last thing about like the strength stuff. 662 00:48:42,520 --> 00:48:47,280 I might cut this out but it's just like it keeps sticking in my mind. 663 00:48:47,280 --> 00:48:52,600 I feel like I know someone who had like a very similar story to you where they said 664 00:48:52,600 --> 00:48:59,720 that they like started climbing when they were like chubbier and he says like once a 665 00:48:59,720 --> 00:49:06,640 fat kid always a fat kid so he just like always feels like that even though like he's quite 666 00:49:06,640 --> 00:49:10,040 strong now he's like climbed for a long time. 667 00:49:10,040 --> 00:49:11,480 Do you relate to that? 668 00:49:11,480 --> 00:49:13,320 Like do you still feel like that? 669 00:49:13,320 --> 00:49:15,360 Oh yeah 100%. 670 00:49:15,360 --> 00:49:17,040 Oh my gosh. 671 00:49:17,040 --> 00:49:23,280 That's like something that I always have in the back of my mind and people always tell 672 00:49:23,280 --> 00:49:27,400 me like stop thinking that it doesn't make sense. 673 00:49:27,400 --> 00:49:34,440 I wouldn't say it's like a I wouldn't say I have like eating disorders or anything which 674 00:49:34,440 --> 00:49:43,800 I know is like common in the climbing scene to have but it does like annoy me from time 675 00:49:43,800 --> 00:49:44,800 to time. 676 00:49:44,800 --> 00:49:47,560 Yeah I guess like how does that manifest for you? 677 00:49:47,560 --> 00:49:51,880 Like how does it show up or like affect you mentally? 678 00:49:51,880 --> 00:50:00,160 It does get me sometimes like just feeling more like down without feeling the side to 679 00:50:00,160 --> 00:50:06,060 train more and then sometimes feeling like I'm not in the shape I wanted to makes me 680 00:50:06,060 --> 00:50:13,440 when I eat more like as a counter effect I don't feel like it's a disorder or anything 681 00:50:13,440 --> 00:50:18,960 it just like makes me a bit more down sometimes. 682 00:50:18,960 --> 00:50:26,840 Makes me a bit anxious and from that sometimes I want to eat more and then after eating more 683 00:50:26,840 --> 00:50:34,200 I'm like oh well now I'm just like fat again you know but it's like it's something that 684 00:50:34,200 --> 00:50:41,920 I feel like a lot of people struggle with and I've always tried to have like a good 685 00:50:41,920 --> 00:50:44,280 relationship with food. 686 00:50:44,280 --> 00:50:46,280 I love eating. 687 00:50:46,280 --> 00:50:52,100 Is there do you have any like I guess like tips or things that worked for you in helping 688 00:50:52,100 --> 00:50:55,320 you get out of that kind of negative mindset? 689 00:50:55,320 --> 00:51:02,280 Yeah I feel like it often comes like oh like I can't do this move just because I'm chubby 690 00:51:02,280 --> 00:51:11,160 or that's the reason why I'm not sending this time or you know not like feeling strong but 691 00:51:11,160 --> 00:51:15,800 then in the end of the day when I look back like that wasn't what stopped me from like 692 00:51:15,800 --> 00:51:21,080 getting the results that I did and those were the times when I was feeling good with myself 693 00:51:21,080 --> 00:51:29,560 and not necessarily I was like one kilo heavier or one kilogram like lighter so it's a lot 694 00:51:29,560 --> 00:51:36,680 about like your mind and I feel like we look at ourselves in the mirror always like differently 695 00:51:36,680 --> 00:51:39,880 from what we may actually be. 696 00:51:39,880 --> 00:51:45,100 Well yeah I'm sure a lot of people can relate to that as well whether they're like trying 697 00:51:45,100 --> 00:51:51,440 to be full-on athletes or just like climbing casually so yeah hopefully a lot of people 698 00:51:51,440 --> 00:51:53,000 can relate to that. 699 00:51:53,000 --> 00:51:58,040 Okay I think those were all the questions I had so moving on to some of the discord 700 00:51:58,040 --> 00:52:01,320 and Instagram questions that came through. 701 00:52:01,320 --> 00:52:06,080 The first one from Instagram was top three slab tips. 702 00:52:06,080 --> 00:52:17,920 I feel like the first one is a classic but it's like trusting. 703 00:52:17,920 --> 00:52:24,600 I did some training with Roman like the Yanez coach when I was in I would have been to Slovenia 704 00:52:24,600 --> 00:52:31,680 training with them and one thing that Roman would always tell me was if you're if you 705 00:52:31,680 --> 00:52:38,520 feel like you need to try hard on your upper body like if you're trying to solve it with 706 00:52:38,520 --> 00:52:41,520 strength you're doing it wrong. 707 00:52:41,520 --> 00:52:48,640 Like of course it's not like major rule you always have to follow but he was basically 708 00:52:48,640 --> 00:52:54,920 saying like you can always like change your foot a little bit trust more your legs your 709 00:52:54,920 --> 00:53:02,120 hips and that really helped me develop my slab game. 710 00:53:02,120 --> 00:53:10,680 Second thing I would say is you have to be kind of like not scared to die like you have 711 00:53:10,680 --> 00:53:20,640 to be like willing to you know like how do you say like hit your chin or hit your nose 712 00:53:20,640 --> 00:53:27,200 on the wall because it's like if you're scared of doing the move and you don't fully commit 713 00:53:27,200 --> 00:53:32,440 you're gonna slip and on slab if you don't trust your foot you're gonna slip and so if 714 00:53:32,440 --> 00:53:38,760 you're willing to like okay I don't even care if I hit my shin on the wall that and trust 715 00:53:38,760 --> 00:53:42,480 your foot 100% that's when you stick in movement. 716 00:53:42,480 --> 00:53:52,640 You've got to be fearless on slabs and I would say that the third point it's like calm you 717 00:53:52,640 --> 00:53:58,960 have to be really calm sometimes in comps even in the South American comp we had like 718 00:53:58,960 --> 00:54:10,000 two months ago just me and Beng Ha sent this really really hard slab and it was so long 719 00:54:10,000 --> 00:54:16,800 that you only had two attempts on it like it was so long and it had no handholds just 720 00:54:16,800 --> 00:54:22,320 like foot walking and most people couldn't send it because after their first try they 721 00:54:22,320 --> 00:54:27,040 saw there was like only two minutes on the clock and started trying to rush it and that's 722 00:54:27,040 --> 00:54:31,320 when you start to go around so if you want to send this slab you got to really really 723 00:54:31,320 --> 00:54:35,960 breathe and do like everything feeling that you're in a stable position. 724 00:54:35,960 --> 00:54:40,040 Do you do any like breath work on the wall or off the wall as part of like your mindset 725 00:54:40,040 --> 00:54:41,040 work? 726 00:54:41,040 --> 00:54:46,640 I don't do a lot of breath work I wish I did more I definitely want to dig more into it 727 00:54:46,640 --> 00:54:51,760 but when I'm on the wall I always try to like on the slabs try to keep my heart rate low 728 00:54:51,760 --> 00:54:56,680 I feel like I start getting anxious it's so hard it's so much harder to send slabs with 729 00:54:56,680 --> 00:54:58,680 a higher heartbeat. 730 00:54:58,680 --> 00:55:04,860 I'm assuming like your shins are all beat up then you've got a lot of scabs and cuts 731 00:55:04,860 --> 00:55:07,720 and bruises on your legs. 732 00:55:07,720 --> 00:55:12,840 Yeah I feel like I think I still have like one in my shin right here from like two days 733 00:55:12,840 --> 00:55:13,840 ago. 734 00:55:13,840 --> 00:55:18,480 Oh yeah yeah oh your chin I was talking about your legs and your shins. 735 00:55:18,480 --> 00:55:21,920 Oh sorry yeah my shins too but my chin as well. 736 00:55:21,920 --> 00:55:30,400 Okay yeah yeah it's tough in the shower when you just break something open. 737 00:55:30,400 --> 00:55:37,600 I found a lot of help from using like waterproof bandages those are my that's my slab tip. 738 00:55:37,600 --> 00:55:40,280 Have you tried waterproof bandages? 739 00:55:40,280 --> 00:55:41,280 I haven't. 740 00:55:41,280 --> 00:55:44,520 Oh it makes a huge difference. 741 00:55:44,520 --> 00:55:47,320 Makes you more confident too? 742 00:55:47,320 --> 00:55:52,320 It's just like after you like have the cut you don't have to like deal with the pain 743 00:55:52,320 --> 00:55:56,320 in the shower of like the water hitting your like fresh cut. 744 00:55:56,320 --> 00:56:01,520 Yeah and does that make you like oh I'm gonna commit to this move and even if I hurt myself 745 00:56:01,520 --> 00:56:05,000 I just put them on and it will be fine. 746 00:56:05,000 --> 00:56:10,720 I guess a little it's like oh I know that it'll hurt like when I do it but then afterwards 747 00:56:10,720 --> 00:56:14,280 when I shower it won't be too bad. 748 00:56:14,280 --> 00:56:17,120 Yeah that's my slab tip. 749 00:56:17,120 --> 00:56:21,800 Okay next question what are your thoughts on the new rules that limit participation 750 00:56:21,800 --> 00:56:25,980 per country from a small climbing country perspective? 751 00:56:25,980 --> 00:56:32,400 Do you feel like limiting the participation of developed teams helps smaller nations? 752 00:56:32,400 --> 00:56:36,040 That's a pretty hard one to answer. 753 00:56:36,040 --> 00:56:45,000 I feel like in the World Cup scene you do one the best of the best but at the same time 754 00:56:45,000 --> 00:56:54,180 you also do one representative from other countries so it's hard to say like having 755 00:56:54,180 --> 00:57:01,480 only two spots for like Brazil and even Australia or like all the other South American countries 756 00:57:01,480 --> 00:57:08,080 and then having like 15 spots for our Japanese team when they are like hosting an event it 757 00:57:08,080 --> 00:57:16,480 feels a bit weird to have that big of a difference but they did earn those spots so it's hard 758 00:57:16,480 --> 00:57:17,680 to say. 759 00:57:17,680 --> 00:57:24,160 I feel like it should be like a three people it should be like a three-person quota for 760 00:57:24,160 --> 00:57:29,920 a country because most countries do it like top three internationals are liking the overall 761 00:57:29,920 --> 00:57:34,280 result like if you get a medal then you're on the team and you get to compete. 762 00:57:34,280 --> 00:57:40,600 I feel like that's how a lot of the countries do it and then having to like mix up two out 763 00:57:40,600 --> 00:57:47,880 of the three makes it pretty hard and when you're trying to get when you only get more 764 00:57:47,880 --> 00:57:53,480 spots if you're in the top 40 but then you only have two people competing and these people 765 00:57:53,480 --> 00:57:59,960 still have to take turns to go it's also a bit like hard to compare and also other countries 766 00:57:59,960 --> 00:58:05,040 in South America they won't have like we're pretty fortunate in here in Brazil to be able 767 00:58:05,040 --> 00:58:09,160 to go to like two or three World Cups a year but there are some countries who can only 768 00:58:09,160 --> 00:58:15,440 go to one and then it makes it impossible for them going to only one to be in the top 769 00:58:15,440 --> 00:58:22,680 40 whereas Japan has resources to send athletes to every single World Cup every year so at 770 00:58:22,680 --> 00:58:30,120 the same time that I understand that these countries have like a stronger climbing community 771 00:58:30,120 --> 00:58:35,680 like stronger athletes they also have so many more resources to be doing that. 772 00:58:35,680 --> 00:58:41,920 So I guess going forward do you feel like the participation changes will I guess like 773 00:58:41,920 --> 00:58:47,640 help the smaller countries make progress in their climbing? 774 00:58:47,640 --> 00:58:51,240 I don't think it's pretty hard to answer. 775 00:58:51,240 --> 00:58:57,600 I'm like I'm not sure if it's gonna help them because that's not gonna make them have more 776 00:58:57,600 --> 00:59:04,200 resources but I feel like it's gonna make it more fair and more equal to everyone having 777 00:59:04,200 --> 00:59:11,680 a bit less spots but what I feel like they could have done is like maybe still leave 778 00:59:11,680 --> 00:59:17,080 it up to maybe 10 spots for the countries who have a lot of athletes and then just up 779 00:59:17,080 --> 00:59:23,640 the number for countries who have less quota to three or four people because these countries 780 00:59:23,640 --> 00:59:29,000 won't even be able to send like three or four people but if there is an event then they 781 00:59:29,000 --> 00:59:34,680 can at least like choose whether or not they want to take three athletes or not. 782 00:59:34,680 --> 00:59:35,680 Yeah makes sense. 783 00:59:35,680 --> 00:59:37,680 What do you think? 784 00:59:37,680 --> 00:59:43,720 I actually really need to read up on the new quota changes. 785 00:59:43,720 --> 00:59:46,240 I don't actually know it off the top of my head. 786 00:59:46,240 --> 00:59:49,920 I've just seen like some discussion about it. 787 00:59:49,920 --> 00:59:54,120 I guess like for the people who are listening who maybe don't know about it do you want 788 00:59:54,120 --> 00:59:55,840 to give like a brief overview? 789 00:59:55,840 --> 01:00:03,600 Yeah so we've had in the past like three years when I started competing the minimum quota 790 01:00:03,600 --> 01:00:14,000 was three athletes per country and five for road champs I think and then recently it changed 791 01:00:14,000 --> 01:00:21,400 to only two athletes per country for road cups and three in road champs and for bigger 792 01:00:21,400 --> 01:00:28,360 countries like if you have anyone in the top 40 you gain an extra spot and people in the 793 01:00:28,360 --> 01:00:31,800 top 10 they gain a spot for themselves. 794 01:00:31,800 --> 01:00:36,840 So it's like if you get a spot between 20 and 40 it's a spot for the country. 795 01:00:36,840 --> 01:00:41,440 Doesn't necessarily need to be the person who earned that spot and if it's a top 10 796 01:00:41,440 --> 01:00:48,280 person then that person is already guaranteed on the circuit and so that's why Japan had 797 01:00:48,280 --> 01:00:52,920 so many people competing per event because they would always have like two athletes for 798 01:00:52,920 --> 01:01:02,160 the quota plus six or seven for the top 40 plus like two for being host country sometimes. 799 01:01:02,160 --> 01:01:08,080 So that's why the number would escalate so much and in order to reduce that such a big 800 01:01:08,080 --> 01:01:13,400 difference this year they limited the quota to even if you have people on the top 40 I 801 01:01:13,400 --> 01:01:17,800 think the limit is going to be five if I'm not wrong. 802 01:01:17,800 --> 01:01:23,920 Yeah I wasn't going to form any opinions on it until after I saw how it would play out 803 01:01:23,920 --> 01:01:31,800 in the season so yeah I think I'll have to wait and see what it feels like. 804 01:01:31,800 --> 01:01:38,560 Yeah it's like we also as an athlete I also want to be competing against the best of the 805 01:01:38,560 --> 01:01:45,920 best in the world so at the same time it's like we want to see all the Japanese crushing 806 01:01:45,920 --> 01:01:51,000 out there you know so it's a hard decision I feel like it wasn't an easy decision for 807 01:01:51,000 --> 01:01:53,160 the IFC to make. 808 01:01:53,160 --> 01:01:58,360 I guess yeah I kind of wondered how athletes felt this year when a lot of like the top 809 01:01:58,360 --> 01:02:03,880 athletes weren't competing in World Cups due to like preparing for the Olympics or maybe 810 01:02:03,880 --> 01:02:06,320 resting after the Olympics. 811 01:02:06,320 --> 01:02:10,760 I kind of always wondered how that felt because maybe they didn't really feel like they were 812 01:02:10,760 --> 01:02:15,080 competing against the best of the best anymore. 813 01:02:15,080 --> 01:02:20,640 So yeah I'm kind of wondering if maybe people will have a similar feeling given like the 814 01:02:20,640 --> 01:02:22,880 quota restrictions. 815 01:02:22,880 --> 01:02:24,960 Yeah I understand that. 816 01:02:24,960 --> 01:02:28,440 That's my cop out answer. 817 01:02:28,440 --> 01:02:34,760 Okay so last question what are the outdoor climbing projects in Brazil that you really 818 01:02:34,760 --> 01:02:36,120 want to get done? 819 01:02:36,120 --> 01:02:44,800 So we have Fortaleza that is like a V15 well maybe well now it got downgraded to V14 and 820 01:02:44,800 --> 01:02:47,040 recent years. 821 01:02:47,040 --> 01:02:51,920 It's the most iconic boulder here Felipe Camargo did the first attempt. 822 01:02:51,920 --> 01:02:57,800 That's definitely a boulder that I would love to send the next few years. 823 01:02:57,800 --> 01:03:04,000 Right now I'm focused on maybe getting a few first attempts done in São Vento do Sapucaí 824 01:03:04,000 --> 01:03:09,440 which is close to here and there's a V13 there that I really want to get my hands on it's 825 01:03:09,440 --> 01:03:12,840 called Setemtaitaus. 826 01:03:12,840 --> 01:03:21,600 And something that I didn't say earlier in the interview or posted it publicly is that 827 01:03:21,600 --> 01:03:25,320 I probably won't be competing in LEAD anymore. 828 01:03:25,320 --> 01:03:29,760 I'm gonna just focus on bouldering. 829 01:03:29,760 --> 01:03:38,000 I felt like having to mix both in the year like already feeling a bit behind from the 830 01:03:38,000 --> 01:03:42,800 other guys like wanting to be in semis and having to compete in both disciplines makes 831 01:03:42,800 --> 01:03:44,240 it way harder. 832 01:03:44,240 --> 01:03:48,760 So this year I made the tough decision of like of course I love LEAD climbing and I 833 01:03:48,760 --> 01:03:54,160 didn't want to stop competing for it but I feel like if I want to excel in one of them 834 01:03:54,160 --> 01:04:01,240 I needed to pick one and that also talks with how like the next Olympics is gonna be maybe 835 01:04:01,240 --> 01:04:07,540 they are gonna split it up so I'm really like trying to take an advantage before it actually 836 01:04:07,540 --> 01:04:08,540 announced. 837 01:04:08,540 --> 01:04:09,920 Yeah that totally makes sense. 838 01:04:09,920 --> 01:04:17,000 Do you think one day you'll want to I guess either add LEAD back in or maybe just like 839 01:04:17,000 --> 01:04:18,720 totally switch to LEAD? 840 01:04:18,720 --> 01:04:22,920 Yeah for sure. 841 01:04:22,920 --> 01:04:32,040 I do prefer LEAD climbing outdoors so when I'm climbing outdoors just like the feeling 842 01:04:32,040 --> 01:04:37,480 you get when you send a hard route it's like you just have to put so much more effort into 843 01:04:37,480 --> 01:04:45,080 it and it's like such a bigger fight sending a route than it is sending a boulder at least 844 01:04:45,080 --> 01:04:53,900 for me like the feeling I get is so much more fulfilling and for sure like I have so many 845 01:04:53,900 --> 01:05:00,400 routes that I want to take down in the next few years and what I thought was like with 846 01:05:00,400 --> 01:05:07,120 bouldering I am gonna get like so much stronger that when I go back into LEAD I just need 847 01:05:07,120 --> 01:05:12,720 to like get my endurance back get the like lead flow back going and I'm gonna be much 848 01:05:12,720 --> 01:05:18,000 stronger to send all the routes that I want to send right now and whereas if I was just 849 01:05:18,000 --> 01:05:23,560 focused in LEAD I feel like it would be harder to transition into like hard bouldering outdoors. 850 01:05:23,560 --> 01:05:25,120 Okay awesome. 851 01:05:25,120 --> 01:05:30,800 Well I think that is all the questions I had is there any like last words you want to get 852 01:05:30,800 --> 01:05:34,840 out there or words of wisdom you want to put out into the world? 853 01:05:34,840 --> 01:05:41,560 Well I guess I wanted to say to if there's any South American climbers who want to become 854 01:05:41,560 --> 01:05:47,640 athletes or who are already athletes it's like believe in yourselves because we can 855 01:05:47,640 --> 01:05:54,400 also do it we just need more belief in our hearts and to everyone else I just wanted 856 01:05:54,400 --> 01:05:59,840 to say like if you can come to Brazil come watch the World Cup it's gonna be a big event 857 01:05:59,840 --> 01:06:07,120 for us I'm sure it's gonna be a great event I'm so psyched and yeah come watch come visit 858 01:06:07,120 --> 01:06:12,040 Brazil if you guys want to just text me if you want to go rock climbing or just want 859 01:06:12,040 --> 01:06:17,520 to tour around I can give some tips I'm open for you guys to text. 860 01:06:17,520 --> 01:06:22,240 Okay super exciting yeah I can't wait for the World Cup in Brazil that'll be really 861 01:06:22,240 --> 01:06:27,160 exciting okay awesome I want to let people know where they can find you. 862 01:06:27,160 --> 01:06:35,960 I feel like the easiest would be my Instagram it's at Rodrigo dot Hanada with an H and yeah 863 01:06:35,960 --> 01:06:40,400 just direct me there and we can talk. 864 01:06:40,400 --> 01:06:44,560 Cool awesome I will leave the link in the description. 865 01:06:44,560 --> 01:06:48,880 Okay great well that's everything I had thank you so much for joining me today and it was 866 01:06:48,880 --> 01:06:50,400 amazing to talk to you. 867 01:06:50,400 --> 01:06:55,480 Yeah thank you so much for the invite it was really great talking to you Ginny and I hope 868 01:06:55,480 --> 01:07:02,400 climbing grows more and there's more podcasts like yours it was a great great experience 869 01:07:02,400 --> 01:07:03,400 thank you. 870 01:07:03,400 --> 01:07:08,080 Thank you so much for making it to the end of the podcast don't forget to like and subscribe 871 01:07:08,080 --> 01:07:13,720 if you enjoyed otherwise you are a super fake climber if you're listening on a podcasting 872 01:07:13,720 --> 01:07:18,560 platform I'd appreciate if you rate it five stars and you can continue the discussion 873 01:07:18,560 --> 01:07:31,520 on the free competition climbing discord linked in the description thanks again for listening.