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Yeah, I try looking a bit to the side to kind of see what the boulders look like and to see

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potential methods.

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I mean, this is only for like these next couple of years, but we might need to pay ourselves

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because the budget has been reduced.

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Around me, I heard a lot of, be careful, you don't want to put on too much weight, it's

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going to affect your climbing.

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That's when I was like, oh my gosh, I'm putting on weight.

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I loved One Direction, loved them.

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And someone commented, Harry Styles was in One Direction?

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I was like, excuse me?

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How do you not know that?

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Welcome to another episode of the That's Not Real Climbing podcast.

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I'm your host Jinni and I'm excited to introduce my guest for today, Sofya Yokoyama.

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Sofya is a boulder on Team Switzerland and she's part of the wave of OG climbing YouTubers.

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In this episode, she gives us a debrief on her last comp of the 2024 season in Prague.

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We get some insight into Team Switzerland and their potential upcoming funding issues.

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And she opens up about her past struggles with disordered eating and how she overcame

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it.

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So, I hope you enjoy this episode with Sofya.

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We'll start slowly into it.

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You just got back from Prague, so that's probably fresh in your mind.

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So any thoughts about how the Prague World Cup went?

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Yeah, no, so Prague was really fun.

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The semis round didn't really go as I had hoped.

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So I guess the general coming out of the comp was a bit frustrating, a bit sad.

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But now that I've had a couple of days to just reflect and think about it, now I'm like,

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okay, well, it's been a good season.

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I've had fun training and traveling with the team.

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It's been cool.

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And this has been the best season of my career.

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So it's a lot more positive than just unfortunately this bad semis.

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Well, you still have another chance to.

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Yep.

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Yep.

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I leave for Seoul tomorrow.

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Exciting.

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Yeah, the semis boulders looked really hard.

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Did you have an idea going into or not going into it, but while you were climbing that

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it was a low scoring round?

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Or did you kind of feel like you were the only one who was struggling and then it like

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kind of got in your head?

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Yeah, you can already kind of guess how the round is going when you're in ISO because

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you know, like if athletes come back early, then you're like, okay, this boulder they've

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done.

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And then if a lot of people are coming back early, then you're like, okay, so there's

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quite a lot of tops.

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And when I was in ISO, there weren't that many people coming back.

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So I was like, okay, this is a hard round, but just anything is possible.

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Just stay focused, try hard.

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And then unfortunately, when I got out onto the first boulder, I just had the wrong method.

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And I knew that this was possible and I knew that I could do it.

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So already the fact that I didn't, it was kind of like, okay, another three hard boulders

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to come.

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And so it's kind of hard to then tell yourself, okay, but I can do it.

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It's possible.

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Just stay focused and try as hard as you can on these boulders.

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So I feel like I did manage that quite well until after the third boulder where I didn't

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get the zone, I was like, okay, no one's doing the slab.

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So I think this is over anyways.

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Okay.

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So you kind of felt like defeated going into it after the first one a bit?

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Yeah, after the first boulder, I was like, this is not the great start to a semis round

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or semis I would have hoped.

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But things can still change.

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So for now, stay focused and stay in it.

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So do you kind of sneak a peek at how other people are doing on the climbs before or after

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you?

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Yeah, I try looking a bit to the side to kind of see what the boulders look like and to

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see potential methods.

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Since now they kind of spread the boulders out quite a bit, you can't really look too

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far ahead, but yeah, every now and then when I'm like resting between attempts on a boulder,

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I just like step back and look up into the side.

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Yeah, do you ever look like back at boulders you've done to see if other people are doing

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them or is that like too mentally terrible?

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Yeah, so usually I don't, but when I was on the second boulder in the semis round in Prague,

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my teammate was climbing on the first boulder.

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And so she was doing so well.

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So I was like looking at her and I'm like, come on, like getting like psyched for her

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at the same time.

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Like, oh, shoot, I need to focus on my boulder and climb on my boulder.

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But usually I can separate but since it was just my teammate and she was doing well, I

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was like, yes.

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So it was more excitement for her rather than, oh, that was how I was supposed to do it.

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I mean, there was also a bit of that.

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I'm like, oh, I just spent five minutes trying one method and if I had just changed hands,

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things could have gone differently, but yeah.

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Okay.

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Well, I hope that soul goes well for you.

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It's still great that you made semis again.

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That's it.

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Yeah.

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Very consistent in that, which is good.

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Yeah.

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I think the years before, at least consistency is here this year.

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Yeah.

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Consistency is great.

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Okay.

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So let's get into how you started climbing and competing.

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Yeah.

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So I started when I was around seven.

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My parents always were like, oh yeah, maybe either if you want to do a sport or an instrument,

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but they always wanted me and my brother to have another activity besides school.

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And so I was trying many different sports when I was younger and it was really climbing

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that for some reason stuck and I enjoyed it the most.

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And so it got a bit more serious when I came back to Switzerland.

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I joined the competition team and then just gradually started training a bit more and

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did more comps, joined the Swiss team and still doing it now.

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When was your first competition, if you remember?

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Officially, it was when I was living in Singapore.

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Oh, I didn't know you were living in Singapore.

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Yeah.

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I lived there between nine and 12.

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Wow.

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Yeah.

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I had three years in Singapore and at school they had like this crazy cool climbing wall

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and the coach there, he was like, oh, you should do comps.

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There's some cool fun comps in Singapore going on.

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And so that's where I started.

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And then I was, yeah, I think I was like, yeah, 10, 11-ish.

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It was just for fun at that time.

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But it was when I came back to Switzerland where it got more serious and I joined the

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national team and did national comps, international comps.

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Cool.

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Well, I mean, we've got some Singapore viewers and I had also just interviewed a couple other

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people from Singapore.

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Oh, cool.

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So I'm sure they'll be glad to know that.

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So you moved around like a bunch then, I guess.

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Yeah.

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I've moved quite a bit.

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Was there anywhere else that you had lived?

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I was also in England for a couple of years.

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I didn't compete.

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I mean, I was born in Switzerland and then around three I moved to England, so I wasn't

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climbing at that time.

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And then came back to Switzerland, but in the French pot and then moved to Singapore

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and then came back to Switzerland since.

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But there was a phase, I think when I got back to Switzerland around 14, 15, where I

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was like doing comps in England and in Switzerland to see which national team I could join.

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Oh, really?

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But yeah, since I was living in Switzerland, I ended up staying with the Swiss team.

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Okay.

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So you were like trying out for, or I guess it's not tryouts, but maybe like trials or

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something like that to join a national team?

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Yeah, I think you do the national comps and then depending on your results, you get a

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team offer.

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Okay.

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So the Switzerland one came first.

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Yeah.

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So yeah, you moved around a bunch.

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So I know you mentioned people always wonder where your accent is from.

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Is that how it came about?

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It's just a mix of a bunch of different places.

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Yeah.

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When I was younger, I had my mum's British accent.

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But then, yeah, with moving around so much, there was a phase where I just had a full-on

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American accent.

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And now, yeah, I don't know, it just switched so much.

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And then now it kind of went back to just normal British, but then with also some American

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towns.

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In Singapore, it was the French school, but it was international.

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So a lot of it was like American.

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And that's where the American accent came out.

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So I think it was just hanging around with a lot of American English speakers.

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And I got influenced.

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Yeah, makes sense.

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No, I recently learned I got fed a bunch of TikToks that was like, oh, there's an international

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school accent.

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So I was wondering if that's kind of what it was.

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But maybe it's a little different.

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Yeah, I think it's more like the people who I'm hanging out with.

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Our coach on the Swiss team is Australian, and we hang out with Oceana Mackenzie a lot.

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So sometimes I feel like I've got an Australian wang to real world.

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Yeah, sometimes I'm worried when I talk to someone with an accent that I'll start imitating

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them but in like, not a cool way.

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Yeah, I don't know why it switches.

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Yeah, thankfully it doesn't happen to me too much.

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So I think I saw you post, I forget if it was like a story or a post, but it looks like

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you've been doing a little bit more lead lately.

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Why did you not get into it before?

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And why are you doing it now?

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So yeah, I guess the big question two years ago was to try for the Olympics and whether

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I wanted to focus also on the lead discipline, considering that like my main and favorite

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discipline is bouldering.

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And I had like a long talk with the coaches.

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And since my, at least last year, my bouldering was really not at the level I wanted it to

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be at.

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If I like taking some of my bordering energy, moving it into lead and losing like a bit

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more focus on like losing that bordering focus to put onto lead, it, yeah, I wouldn't have

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progressed as much in bouldering and then I might not have even gotten that good in lead.

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So it would have been like a lot of training, a lot of trying mix match, see what works

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best and potentially not like gaining in anything.

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So the final conclusion was like, okay, I'm just going to focus this year on bordering,

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really to get as strong as I can.

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Especially like now you need to be so good in bordering and lead to just like get a decent

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ish result, so I'm happy I stuck to my like focus on bordering decision.

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But yeah, recently we had the Swiss lead cup and in our Swiss contract, we need to participate

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in two disciplines, even though I'm just a boarder.

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And so I was like, okay, well, I'm home.

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There's a lead comp this weekend.

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May as well go for it.

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And it went so well.

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Like honestly, I don't think I've climbed that good in lead my whole life.

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And so I was like, you know, maybe I will come back doing some lead.

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Who knows?

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Okay.

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Well, I mean, as far as like the Olympics, I guess they might split it out.

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So do you want to just do lead comps or like, this is still like an Olympic hopeful kind

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of thing?

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I guess in LA they don't split it.

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I will probably try now that I saw lead didn't go too bad.

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But if they do split it, I don't think I'll really focus on lead.

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Yeah, that makes sense.

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Yeah, I think I'll just do bordering unless like I have maybe an outdoor lead project,

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but there's enough bordering projects I have to focus on before going to lead.

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Why do you think you did well in lead?

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Like you weren't training it at all?

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No, so I have a really good theory.

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I remember when I was training lead, I was like, yeah, I was focused.

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I knew I was training lead.

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I knew that I could do well.

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And I guess the stress of the comp, I couldn't really handle it as well because I'm like,

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there's only one attempt.

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I need to climb perfectly.

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I need to really focus and like there were a lot of things that I was thinking of for

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it to go well.

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And now this comp, I was like, okay, look, I haven't done lead in a long time.

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I feel great in bordering.

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I guess the moves in lead aren't as hard.

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So I could technically do all the moves on the lead wall.

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And so all I need to do since I don't have endurance is climb fast and efficiently.

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And so I was like, okay, well, let's see how fast I can climb.

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And I was just like really in a chill mood, here to have fun, confident in my bordering

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skills that I could like hold all the holds and do all the moves.

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So then all I just needed to do was hold on long enough to get as high as possible.

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Yeah, I hear a lot of boulders do that.

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Just like go up as fast as they can.

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Not even rest really.

239
00:15:11,160 --> 00:15:19,280
Yeah, like there's no point of me really shaking out because my other arm gets pumped anyways.

240
00:15:19,280 --> 00:15:21,320
So I'm just like, okay, talk.

241
00:15:21,320 --> 00:15:23,040
Okay, fast talk.

242
00:15:23,040 --> 00:15:25,760
Okay, fast talk.

243
00:15:25,760 --> 00:15:31,440
I don't know if that'll work when you actually want to get into lead competitions, but.

244
00:15:31,440 --> 00:15:33,240
I received a lot of messages afterwards.

245
00:15:33,240 --> 00:15:37,880
It's like, it's just the first comp always goes well.

246
00:15:37,880 --> 00:15:41,720
And then once you start training it, it's downhill from there.

247
00:15:41,720 --> 00:15:46,720
I feel like there's also a lot of, so like I've talked to a few people now.

248
00:15:46,720 --> 00:15:48,360
I've interviewed like a few athletes.

249
00:15:48,360 --> 00:15:54,640
It seems like a lot of times they have like a great comp and they say it's because they

250
00:15:54,640 --> 00:15:57,640
went in with no expectations.

251
00:15:57,640 --> 00:15:59,720
And then I guess they had a good result.

252
00:15:59,720 --> 00:16:02,800
And so then it's like in their head about it.

253
00:16:02,800 --> 00:16:06,600
And then it just goes downhill from there.

254
00:16:06,600 --> 00:16:09,000
Do you feel like that's kind of the case?

255
00:16:09,000 --> 00:16:16,520
Yeah, there's many times when I've been sick before a comp or like I got a cold and I wasn't

256
00:16:16,520 --> 00:16:18,800
necessarily feeling in the best shape.

257
00:16:18,800 --> 00:16:24,720
And then like this was national level and then I came out winning the comp or doing

258
00:16:24,720 --> 00:16:26,560
like a really good result and climbing great.

259
00:16:26,560 --> 00:16:33,440
And I think it's yeah, heading into the competition where you're like, okay, there's no expectations

260
00:16:33,440 --> 00:16:34,440
here.

261
00:16:34,440 --> 00:16:35,960
I've been sick the past week.

262
00:16:35,960 --> 00:16:39,760
It's just really to go out and climb as good as I can.

263
00:16:39,760 --> 00:16:41,840
And that's it.

264
00:16:41,840 --> 00:16:46,960
But yeah, once you start getting the results and you're like, okay, I can do this.

265
00:16:46,960 --> 00:16:48,160
It goes well.

266
00:16:48,160 --> 00:16:53,680
That's when in your head, it's like, it's not like I can do this, but it's like, I have

267
00:16:53,680 --> 00:16:56,200
to do this.

268
00:16:56,200 --> 00:17:03,600
And the like that switch in I can to I have where like you're, you have to force yourself

269
00:17:03,600 --> 00:17:04,600
to do something.

270
00:17:04,600 --> 00:17:07,520
And then when it's a bit of a downhill drop.

271
00:17:07,520 --> 00:17:08,520
Yeah.

272
00:17:08,520 --> 00:17:09,520
How do you?

273
00:17:09,520 --> 00:17:10,520
I don't know.

274
00:17:10,520 --> 00:17:16,480
How do you like artificially create a lack of expectations?

275
00:17:16,480 --> 00:17:23,840
So what I've been doing recently or like this past year is more like not necessarily having

276
00:17:23,840 --> 00:17:31,920
like lowering my expectations, but just like it's so hard to explain.

277
00:17:31,920 --> 00:17:37,680
Like heading into the comp, I guess, partly feeling confident in the training that you've

278
00:17:37,680 --> 00:17:38,680
done.

279
00:17:38,680 --> 00:17:45,160
And at the same time, like Prague, Prague, I guess, is one of the conflict didn't go

280
00:17:45,160 --> 00:17:47,680
as well because for me, I was like heading into Prague.

281
00:17:47,680 --> 00:17:54,640
I'm like, okay, I can definitely make finals.

282
00:17:54,640 --> 00:17:57,840
But in my head is like, okay, I'm here to make finals.

283
00:17:57,840 --> 00:18:01,960
And it's not like I was already thinking of the next step instead of like staying in semis

284
00:18:01,960 --> 00:18:04,320
like, okay, I'm in semis now.

285
00:18:04,320 --> 00:18:06,280
Let's focus on each border one at a time.

286
00:18:06,280 --> 00:18:08,880
I was like, okay, finals is doable.

287
00:18:08,880 --> 00:18:09,880
I can get into this.

288
00:18:09,880 --> 00:18:11,080
I can do this.

289
00:18:11,080 --> 00:18:12,080
Sometimes it through some people.

290
00:18:12,080 --> 00:18:13,080
It does work.

291
00:18:13,080 --> 00:18:18,920
But for me, I think it was more like, ah, okay, since I screwed up the first border,

292
00:18:18,920 --> 00:18:21,280
I'm like, ah, that's it.

293
00:18:21,280 --> 00:18:22,280
Like my round is over.

294
00:18:22,280 --> 00:18:23,280
Okay.

295
00:18:23,280 --> 00:18:24,760
Even though you don't know what's going to happen.

296
00:18:24,760 --> 00:18:25,760
Yeah.

297
00:18:25,760 --> 00:18:33,320
So I guess for Seoul, I'm just going to like qualities have been going well.

298
00:18:33,320 --> 00:18:38,200
So I just go into qualities, climb hard.

299
00:18:38,200 --> 00:18:43,320
There's a few things that I like think of, like, try to think of new methods, try new

300
00:18:43,320 --> 00:18:44,320
things.

301
00:18:44,320 --> 00:18:50,060
Don't be scared to like do crazy stuff.

302
00:18:50,060 --> 00:18:53,200
And try to just continue in that path with semis.

303
00:18:53,200 --> 00:18:55,680
Yeah, I think that makes sense.

304
00:18:55,680 --> 00:19:02,000
So kind of like not really going into it with a specific goal, maybe to like make finals

305
00:19:02,000 --> 00:19:03,800
or semis.

306
00:19:03,800 --> 00:19:09,520
Not focused too much on results, but more focused on like small things that you can

307
00:19:09,520 --> 00:19:10,520
work on.

308
00:19:10,520 --> 00:19:17,040
So like for me, it's trying new things in borders instead of like trying one method.

309
00:19:17,040 --> 00:19:20,800
If you're hesitating on another method, just try it.

310
00:19:20,800 --> 00:19:27,480
Also like, of course, try hard because yeah, the borders aren't easy.

311
00:19:27,480 --> 00:19:29,080
So you need to like commit.

312
00:19:29,080 --> 00:19:34,520
And usually my first attempts are a bit like, I'm just going to climb and see how it feels.

313
00:19:34,520 --> 00:19:41,040
So here it's more like first attempt, it's send or change method.

314
00:19:41,040 --> 00:19:50,760
And then also for me, it's like I get very, not anxious, but like wanting to give a lot

315
00:19:50,760 --> 00:19:52,160
of attempts and try a lot of things.

316
00:19:52,160 --> 00:19:57,320
So it's more like patience, breathe, especially on slabs.

317
00:19:57,320 --> 00:19:59,560
Do you dislike slabs?

318
00:19:59,560 --> 00:20:02,560
Slabs dislike me.

319
00:20:02,560 --> 00:20:06,380
Okay, gotcha.

320
00:20:06,380 --> 00:20:11,320
I really try to like slabs, but I can never, no, not never, because I have sent slabs and

321
00:20:11,320 --> 00:20:18,400
cons, but I just as even, I train them and I don't feel like I'm getting anywhere compared

322
00:20:18,400 --> 00:20:22,680
to like if I train strength, I can do a one on pull ups.

323
00:20:22,680 --> 00:20:28,160
I can see I'm progressing, but on slabs, you can train slabs as much as you like, but foot

324
00:20:28,160 --> 00:20:31,840
slip, can't do this, can't do that.

325
00:20:31,840 --> 00:20:34,440
Have you done the thing?

326
00:20:34,440 --> 00:20:37,680
Well, so I was also really bad at slab.

327
00:20:37,680 --> 00:20:43,160
I mean, I'm certainly still like not great at slab, especially compared to like pro athletes.

328
00:20:43,160 --> 00:20:48,680
But the one thing that actually worked for me that I thought was like some woo woo bullshit

329
00:20:48,680 --> 00:20:55,480
was like before getting on the slab, instead of saying I'm bad at slab, I would just be

330
00:20:55,480 --> 00:20:58,440
like, I'm really good at slab, I can do this.

331
00:20:58,440 --> 00:21:00,440
And then it actually kept working.

332
00:21:00,440 --> 00:21:04,960
And so I was like, oh, maybe this works.

333
00:21:04,960 --> 00:21:11,160
So then I try to do that when I do slab, but it helped for me, I think.

334
00:21:11,160 --> 00:21:16,640
Yeah, I think there's a lot of like trying to gaslight yourself.

335
00:21:16,640 --> 00:21:17,640
Yeah.

336
00:21:17,640 --> 00:21:22,320
Like, yeah, that's something where, and I definitely feel it if I go into an overhang

337
00:21:22,320 --> 00:21:26,820
border, I'm like, confident, I'm like, I'm gonna send this.

338
00:21:26,820 --> 00:21:32,200
And then when you go to the slab, it's like, okay, it's a slab, I gotta be careful, I gotta

339
00:21:32,200 --> 00:21:35,360
think I gotta, and I think it's yeah, trying to erase those thoughts.

340
00:21:35,360 --> 00:21:38,000
It's like, okay, now, this is a slab, I can do a slab.

341
00:21:38,000 --> 00:21:40,480
It's the same thing for me with toe hooks.

342
00:21:40,480 --> 00:21:41,480
Yeah.

343
00:21:41,480 --> 00:21:42,480
Yeah.

344
00:21:42,480 --> 00:21:44,600
I'm not great at toe hooks.

345
00:21:44,600 --> 00:21:48,920
And so every time I see a toe hook, there's like that toe hooks, but now I'm trying to

346
00:21:48,920 --> 00:21:52,280
be like, ah, toe hooks, dang.

347
00:21:52,280 --> 00:21:53,280
Yeah.

348
00:21:53,280 --> 00:21:54,280
Has it helped at all?

349
00:21:54,280 --> 00:21:55,280
No, not really.

350
00:21:55,280 --> 00:21:56,280
Okay.

351
00:21:56,280 --> 00:22:03,040
But I will continue, I will continue trying, especially if you send you feel it, I will.

352
00:22:03,040 --> 00:22:04,040
There's hope.

353
00:22:04,040 --> 00:22:06,040
Yeah, it worked for me.

354
00:22:06,040 --> 00:22:11,800
Maybe I just got lucky, but I'm not gonna think about it until next time.

355
00:22:11,800 --> 00:22:16,720
So being one of the shorter athletes, do you feel like it hinders you during World Cups

356
00:22:16,720 --> 00:22:18,280
or does it help?

357
00:22:18,280 --> 00:22:24,200
Yes, this is a big discussion, especially I've been seeing a few like videos after

358
00:22:24,200 --> 00:22:26,440
the Olympics on iMori.

359
00:22:26,440 --> 00:22:30,080
Yeah, there's a lot.

360
00:22:30,080 --> 00:22:36,600
I think, so I'm like 156, 157, something like that.

361
00:22:36,600 --> 00:22:44,920
So I am like one of the shorter climbers on the circuit, but I do try to take a step back

362
00:22:44,920 --> 00:22:49,720
and be like, okay, yes, if I was maybe five, 10 centimeters taller, this move could be

363
00:22:49,720 --> 00:22:51,280
easier.

364
00:22:51,280 --> 00:22:59,400
But powerful movements, you can work on explosivity, crimps, you can work on finger strength.

365
00:22:59,400 --> 00:23:04,820
You just have to unfortunately be that much stronger than the other climbers.

366
00:23:04,820 --> 00:23:09,800
So I always try to take a step back and be like, okay, well, if I'm short, then I can

367
00:23:09,800 --> 00:23:16,320
compensate by being so much stronger in these areas.

368
00:23:16,320 --> 00:23:21,960
And yes, that's what I've been working on, like finger strength, explosivity, power,

369
00:23:21,960 --> 00:23:29,640
like all those things I can work on because unfortunately height, I can't grow anymore.

370
00:23:29,640 --> 00:23:34,600
Do you ever come across a move where you're like, oh, my height really helps me here?

371
00:23:34,600 --> 00:23:41,880
Yes, a lot of like, it doesn't happen often, but a lot of like tight, box, small, uncomfortable

372
00:23:41,880 --> 00:23:49,680
moves. For me, being short is great because I can just like get in there and be like,

373
00:23:49,680 --> 00:23:51,280
I'm so comfortable.

374
00:23:51,280 --> 00:23:55,440
And then you have my teammates who are a bit taller and they're like, oh, this was really

375
00:23:55,440 --> 00:23:59,840
tight and I couldn't feel good. And I was like, I feel great.

376
00:23:59,840 --> 00:24:01,240
Okay, perfect.

377
00:24:01,240 --> 00:24:10,120
But on the comp circuit, it's rare or like there are sometimes moves like those, but

378
00:24:10,120 --> 00:24:14,480
it's more rare than seeing moves where it's like, okay, if I was a bit taller, that would

379
00:24:14,480 --> 00:24:16,600
have been easier.

380
00:24:16,600 --> 00:24:21,920
Because of just like, is it usually the coordination stuff or like the dinos that you feel like

381
00:24:21,920 --> 00:24:22,920
you're too short?

382
00:24:22,920 --> 00:24:29,880
Yeah, a lot of it is coordination. But I think now, like if it's straight up coordination,

383
00:24:29,880 --> 00:24:37,580
for sure. Like every time I see a straight up jump, I'm like, they have enough experience

384
00:24:37,580 --> 00:24:43,800
to set something other than straight up. But sometimes it's also like, when there's toe

385
00:24:43,800 --> 00:24:49,440
hooks, it's usually like really stretched out positions. And so since toe hooks aren't

386
00:24:49,440 --> 00:24:55,600
my strong suit, I'm also like, if I was just a bit taller, my toe hook would fit in there

387
00:24:55,600 --> 00:25:01,480
so much better. Yeah, so it really depends. But a lot of it is more like, yeah, coordination

388
00:25:01,480 --> 00:25:03,400
and usually toe hooks.

389
00:25:03,400 --> 00:25:09,400
Well, so I feel like I have the opposite issue with toe hooks. So I'm like, if I'm shorter,

390
00:25:09,400 --> 00:25:15,120
then my leg would just be straight and it would be fine and I would reach or not reach.

391
00:25:15,120 --> 00:25:22,400
But like, I wouldn't have to like, twist myself in such a weird way to like, hold the toe

392
00:25:22,400 --> 00:25:23,400
hook.

393
00:25:23,400 --> 00:25:29,400
Yeah, that for sure. Like there's some point sometimes where if you have a toes close,

394
00:25:29,400 --> 00:25:36,720
this toe hook shorter is for sure better. But for me, it's usually like getting into

395
00:25:36,720 --> 00:25:40,920
the toe hook position. Like you usually have to like kind of jump in and then that it's

396
00:25:40,920 --> 00:25:45,640
always like, I'm always limit, like my foot always arrives at the very tip of my toe hook.

397
00:25:45,640 --> 00:25:49,960
And I'm like, I have to squeeze so hard to be able to get the second one and then I have

398
00:25:49,960 --> 00:25:54,760
to like be able to get it a bit higher. And so there's like 20 seconds of work before

399
00:25:54,760 --> 00:26:00,920
actually getting into the stop position, which is kind of that point for me. But yeah, if

400
00:26:00,920 --> 00:26:03,360
the toe hook is close, I'm like, easy.

401
00:26:03,360 --> 00:26:09,200
Okay. Well, we can all just agree that toe hooks are really bad and you can hate them.

402
00:26:09,200 --> 00:26:15,520
Okay. So what does your training look like at the moment? Or I guess not at the moment

403
00:26:15,520 --> 00:26:20,800
because you're in competition season, but last competition or last training season or

404
00:26:20,800 --> 00:26:22,320
like upcoming?

405
00:26:22,320 --> 00:26:33,680
So during the like winter phase, pre-comp pre-season, it's quite, there's a lot going

406
00:26:33,680 --> 00:26:40,600
on. So we kind of like with my coach, we kind of focus on all the things that not necessarily

407
00:26:40,600 --> 00:26:46,420
went wrong in the comp season, but that could go better and how to work on those things.

408
00:26:46,420 --> 00:26:51,560
So if it's yeah, toe hooks, then there's going to be toe hook training, but it's going to

409
00:26:51,560 --> 00:26:56,160
be like, okay, there's going to be more fitness training, maybe some more finger strength

410
00:26:56,160 --> 00:27:01,480
training because I feel like my finger strength could be better. There's also going to be

411
00:27:01,480 --> 00:27:09,200
some like climbing exercises on the wall for like body tension. Also for just like, yeah,

412
00:27:09,200 --> 00:27:16,320
just physical wall exercises. There's a lot going on, a lot of intense stuff. I think

413
00:27:16,320 --> 00:27:22,560
I like climb, yeah, four or five times a week with two gym sessions and two fingerboard

414
00:27:22,560 --> 00:27:31,640
sessions, a bit of camp sing, some hard boulders, some comp boulders, some wall training.

415
00:27:31,640 --> 00:27:37,000
And is this all by yourself or do you train with the Switzerland team much?

416
00:27:37,000 --> 00:27:44,720
So right now I'm between Austria and Switzerland because my boyfriend, he's on the Austrian

417
00:27:44,720 --> 00:27:52,000
team. So I'm in Innsbruck a lot training with them. And then I also, when I head home,

418
00:27:52,000 --> 00:27:57,800
also like train with the Swiss team. So I'm rarely ever alone.

419
00:27:57,800 --> 00:28:04,240
And so like when you're training with teams, is it like a specified thing where they're

420
00:28:04,240 --> 00:28:08,600
like, we want everyone to be together and we all want to train together or is it just

421
00:28:08,600 --> 00:28:14,760
like since you know them, you're friends with them, they like climb at a similar level,

422
00:28:14,760 --> 00:28:16,520
then you just train together.

423
00:28:16,520 --> 00:28:23,680
Yeah. So for the Austrian team, it's like, I really had to, usually it's like the Austrian

424
00:28:23,680 --> 00:28:29,560
team, they train together and they have like these training days. And so I like with my

425
00:28:29,560 --> 00:28:34,080
coach, we like asked them if it was okay if I like train with them, if I joined their

426
00:28:34,080 --> 00:28:39,680
team sessions and all of that. Cause usually they close like the training room for when

427
00:28:39,680 --> 00:28:44,720
they have team sessions. But since I also knew like a lot of the female athletes on

428
00:28:44,720 --> 00:28:52,320
the Austrian team, they were all like welcoming and motivated for me to join. And they were

429
00:28:52,320 --> 00:28:58,480
like, yeah, it'll be great if so if you train with us, we'd love it. And so, yeah, it was

430
00:28:58,480 --> 00:29:03,720
a bit of both. It was me knowing a lot of the athletes on the team and asking if it's

431
00:29:03,720 --> 00:29:09,640
okay if I joined, but at the same time they have these times where they train all together.

432
00:29:09,640 --> 00:29:15,520
It's like kind of not secretive, but like closed off because it's like secret national

433
00:29:15,520 --> 00:29:22,160
team things. Yeah. Yeah. But interesting. Like for our team center, like I guess the

434
00:29:22,160 --> 00:29:29,920
difference is that our team's training center isn't in a public gym. So no one really, other

435
00:29:29,920 --> 00:29:36,080
teams don't really know much about it, where it is, when our team sessions are and stuff

436
00:29:36,080 --> 00:29:40,480
compared to the Austrian team where their team training center isn't the biggest gym

437
00:29:40,480 --> 00:29:46,760
in the world. So for us it's okay, well, if someone does want to join, they have to know

438
00:29:46,760 --> 00:29:55,640
someone in the team and ask. And then we send them the address and then they can join. But

439
00:29:55,640 --> 00:29:59,360
it's also like, yeah, on Mondays we have team training from this time to this time. Let

440
00:29:59,360 --> 00:30:05,000
me know if you want to join and if you can or not. And it's like that three, four times

441
00:30:05,000 --> 00:30:06,000
a week.

442
00:30:06,000 --> 00:30:11,000
How do you feel like the Switzerland team has transformed throughout the years?

443
00:30:11,000 --> 00:30:16,200
So there's been a huge transformation and very much on the positive side. Before our

444
00:30:16,200 --> 00:30:24,400
team training center, I don't know how old our training center is. I think maybe four

445
00:30:24,400 --> 00:30:32,040
years now. But before that, maybe it's older, I don't really remember. But before that everyone

446
00:30:32,040 --> 00:30:37,820
was kind of just like training in different areas in Switzerland. And we'd only ever see

447
00:30:37,820 --> 00:30:44,720
each other when we'd like travel to comps and it comes together. So we weren't as close.

448
00:30:44,720 --> 00:30:51,840
Like yeah, I didn't really know everyone as well. I just saw them at the comps and we'd

449
00:30:51,840 --> 00:30:58,000
just hang out because we were kind of just there. But with the team training center coming

450
00:30:58,000 --> 00:31:05,400
into place and the team organizing team sessions and everyone going there weekly, we kind of

451
00:31:05,400 --> 00:31:15,920
got closer and now it feels much more like a family than just colleagues. And so yeah,

452
00:31:15,920 --> 00:31:20,560
there's been a lot of growth on that side. And I feel like if you have a good environment

453
00:31:20,560 --> 00:31:26,720
with the team, then also comps and training is they just go better in general.

454
00:31:26,720 --> 00:31:31,720
Yeah, that makes sense. Yeah, it seems like having a national training center helps a

455
00:31:31,720 --> 00:31:37,240
lot. And then just having like other strong climbers around to like motivate you helps

456
00:31:37,240 --> 00:31:44,800
a lot. Yeah. Yeah. Climbing with stronger climbers is always as you can do. Yeah, I

457
00:31:44,800 --> 00:31:51,800
agree with that. And yeah, I guess another thing that helps, I know a lot of climbers

458
00:31:51,800 --> 00:31:57,060
on the circuit need to take on other jobs to fund their climbing. Does Switzerland give

459
00:31:57,060 --> 00:32:01,880
athletes a stipend? Please excuse this brief intermission, but if you're interested in

460
00:32:01,880 --> 00:32:07,140
deleted scenes from this episode where we talk about the difference between making semis

461
00:32:07,140 --> 00:32:12,880
versus finals, and what her hopes were going into the Seoul World Cup before she unfortunately

462
00:32:12,880 --> 00:32:19,320
had to cancel her trip, do consider helping support this podcast on Patreon. Some other

463
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465
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468
00:32:43,400 --> 00:32:51,680
Yeah, so we quite lucky that if we're selected for the comps, the hotel and the flights are

469
00:32:51,680 --> 00:33:04,360
financed. We just have to pay for food once we're at the comp, which I mean, is fine for

470
00:33:04,360 --> 00:33:08,200
me if my flight and hotel is fully paid for.

471
00:33:08,200 --> 00:33:14,760
So you don't get like, general stipend at all? Because I think like some countries do, but

472
00:33:14,760 --> 00:33:15,760
some countries don't.

473
00:33:15,760 --> 00:33:20,960
No, yeah, no, for us it's just if you're selected for the comp, we pay the hotel and the flights

474
00:33:20,960 --> 00:33:30,800
and like that's it. Yeah, no, unfortunately not. But yeah, now some comps depending also

475
00:33:30,800 --> 00:33:36,160
on our team's budget, we might need to, I mean, this is only for like these next couple

476
00:33:36,160 --> 00:33:40,160
of years, but we might need to pay ourselves because the budget has been reduced.

477
00:33:40,160 --> 00:33:43,160
Oh, yeah, World Champs.

478
00:33:43,160 --> 00:33:45,160
World Champs.

479
00:33:45,160 --> 00:33:48,160
Oh, dang, really?

480
00:33:48,160 --> 00:33:56,160
Yeah, there's something wrong with the calculations of the money spent and it kind of...

481
00:33:56,160 --> 00:34:05,160
What? Wow. So they wanted to host World Champs, but then they came out of the athlete budget?

482
00:34:05,160 --> 00:34:10,880
No, so they wanted to host World Champs, which went great and everything. It's just that

483
00:34:10,880 --> 00:34:18,080
the budget they had was overspent. So now to pay back the money that was overspent,

484
00:34:18,080 --> 00:34:25,120
they need to like reduce costs in different areas of the whole team. And like they've

485
00:34:25,120 --> 00:34:31,480
tried to reduce as much as they could outside of just like athletes. But now the tiny little

486
00:34:31,480 --> 00:34:36,480
amount left is just, okay, unfortunately, we can't send everyone to this comp. So you

487
00:34:36,480 --> 00:34:39,480
guys have to finance yourself.

488
00:34:39,480 --> 00:34:44,480
Dang. So that's for like the next couple of years?

489
00:34:44,480 --> 00:34:47,480
Yeah. Next, I think it's over four years.

490
00:34:47,480 --> 00:34:56,360
Oh my gosh. Wow. So do you know if that impacts you, like you won't get your flights and

491
00:34:56,360 --> 00:34:58,520
accommodation paid for anymore?

492
00:34:58,520 --> 00:35:02,480
So this whole season, everything was paid for except for Seoul. So for me going to Seoul,

493
00:35:02,480 --> 00:35:07,320
I paid my flights and hotel, but I already knew that in advance. So I kind of already

494
00:35:07,320 --> 00:35:14,760
anticipated, okay, so this is the amount that I'd need for Seoul and for me to go. So it

495
00:35:14,760 --> 00:35:18,280
wasn't that much of a problem. I think I'm not exactly sure how it's going to be for

496
00:35:18,280 --> 00:35:23,280
next year. We'll see.

497
00:35:23,280 --> 00:35:30,000
Okay. So then, I mean, I know you have like your YouTube channel pretty big on that. Do

498
00:35:30,000 --> 00:35:36,280
you need to take on like other jobs to fund your climbing or do you have like other methods?

499
00:35:36,280 --> 00:35:42,800
Yeah. So YouTube, I'm trying to stay a bit more consistent in YouTube and trying to like

500
00:35:42,800 --> 00:35:48,800
get some money off of that. But it's so up and down. Like if I take a little break, the

501
00:35:48,800 --> 00:35:55,920
views just go down so bad. And so right now the income from YouTube is quite low. I was

502
00:35:55,920 --> 00:36:06,960
also very lucky to get like national funding from like, if you get certain results in Switzerland,

503
00:36:06,960 --> 00:36:11,160
you get this like Olympic card and then you get like national funding. You get like a

504
00:36:11,160 --> 00:36:18,440
certain amount of money per year. So I got that for like five or six years. And last

505
00:36:18,440 --> 00:36:23,160
year was my last year. So I was able to save quite a bit of money from that because I didn't

506
00:36:23,160 --> 00:36:31,440
spend that much. So right now I'm just kind of on my savings from all of that money. Yeah.

507
00:36:31,440 --> 00:36:38,680
And when I have a few like potential ideas, so like YouTube, but then also like maybe

508
00:36:38,680 --> 00:36:46,160
doing some training plans that people could like subscribe to monthly and they'd like

509
00:36:46,160 --> 00:36:54,000
have access to some training plans that I'd put in place. And otherwise, I guess there's

510
00:36:54,000 --> 00:37:00,760
also all this side of like trying to find sponsors. But I think I'd prefer to just like

511
00:37:00,760 --> 00:37:10,160
work on like training plans and count on myself than other people. No, yeah. It's stressful.

512
00:37:10,160 --> 00:37:18,040
But yeah, I'm still like, yeah, looking for sponsors who could help financially, but also

513
00:37:18,040 --> 00:37:24,200
like a brand that I like and enjoy so materially can also be beneficial. If you come out with

514
00:37:24,200 --> 00:37:30,560
training plans, let me know. I'll share it. I'll add in the description. Oh, thank you.

515
00:37:30,560 --> 00:37:35,640
I mean, have you ever considered like coaching or maybe that would be part of the training

516
00:37:35,640 --> 00:37:43,600
plan? Yeah. So I used to work in a climbing gym when I was not moving around as much.

517
00:37:43,600 --> 00:37:47,440
So when I was at university and I was like always in the same spot, I worked at a climbing

518
00:37:47,440 --> 00:37:54,720
gym and gave like courses to kids and to adults. But the reason why like I kind of moved to

519
00:37:54,720 --> 00:38:01,320
like creating training plans on an app is because there isn't that like I can do it

520
00:38:01,320 --> 00:38:06,920
wherever I am in the world compared to if I want to work in a gym and do like one-on-one

521
00:38:06,920 --> 00:38:12,400
coaching or like courses, I need to be in certain places on certain days. And so that

522
00:38:12,400 --> 00:38:19,880
also is a bit like more restrictive. If like, yeah, next week I want to go to Fontainebleau

523
00:38:19,880 --> 00:38:27,680
and climb outside or do a trip to the States and yeah. So is there like already a specific

524
00:38:27,680 --> 00:38:32,760
one in mind or just something you can reveal yet? Okay.

525
00:38:32,760 --> 00:38:37,960
Well, the thing is, no, well, technically everything is in place. Like I do have the

526
00:38:37,960 --> 00:38:47,320
app is called Tribe and it's just that nothing is on it right now and I don't have and like

527
00:38:47,320 --> 00:38:51,840
when it's done, I'll have like a link that people could like click on and then it brings

528
00:38:51,840 --> 00:38:58,920
them to like my page. But for now, I'm still like in the process of writing down all the

529
00:38:58,920 --> 00:39:02,000
training plans, filming everything and putting it online.

530
00:39:02,000 --> 00:39:03,000
Gotcha.

531
00:39:03,000 --> 00:39:08,840
But I don't know how long that will take. I'm a bit slow. So that's why I'm still like

532
00:39:08,840 --> 00:39:13,320
potentially maybe in like a couple months.

533
00:39:13,320 --> 00:39:21,960
Well, we'll see. I'm excited to see it come out. It is really like now that I'm like semi

534
00:39:21,960 --> 00:39:29,200
in it, I do understand the whole like there's no money in climbing thing. Because like I

535
00:39:29,200 --> 00:39:38,820
used to do some like fashion Instagram blogging and it was small. Like I had a very small

536
00:39:38,820 --> 00:39:46,640
like following and like no one gave a shit. But even then, there was still way more money

537
00:39:46,640 --> 00:39:48,320
in it than like climbing.

538
00:39:48,320 --> 00:39:56,760
That's crazy. That. Yeah, it's I mean, that's really cool that it worked for you. And then

539
00:39:56,760 --> 00:40:00,720
unfortunately you came into a non money sport.

540
00:40:00,720 --> 00:40:06,360
Yeah, unfortunately, I started doing this and then I feel like people care about it.

541
00:40:06,360 --> 00:40:11,280
Yeah, I like it more and more people care about it. But there's just like no there's

542
00:40:11,280 --> 00:40:15,080
no opportunities, no brands.

543
00:40:15,080 --> 00:40:22,480
Yeah and it's like I've always been told to try to like go with brands who aren't in climbing.

544
00:40:22,480 --> 00:40:30,200
But then those brands aren't necessarily interested in climbing either. So it's like I can only

545
00:40:30,200 --> 00:40:34,520
really go to climbing brands and then yeah, everyone all climbers are in these climbing

546
00:40:34,520 --> 00:40:35,520
brands.

547
00:40:35,520 --> 00:40:36,520
Same people, same brands.

548
00:40:36,520 --> 00:40:40,080
Same people. Yeah, so it's like

549
00:40:40,080 --> 00:40:44,800
Back in fashion, it was just like they'll just give you money to or they'll like give

550
00:40:44,800 --> 00:40:49,940
you free stuff. And it's so easy. There's so many.

551
00:40:49,940 --> 00:40:57,800
I think also that there's been a long mentality in climbing where you don't need much. So

552
00:40:57,800 --> 00:41:03,000
like all you need are like climbing shoes and a tool bag and then you can maybe get

553
00:41:03,000 --> 00:41:08,360
your car and just drive and like live in your car and all of that. So I think a lot of athletes

554
00:41:08,360 --> 00:41:14,880
back in the days also lived off free stuff. Just receiving like free shoes and now with

555
00:41:14,880 --> 00:41:22,720
like social media coming up and athletes kind of knowing their worth. Like if a brand comes

556
00:41:22,720 --> 00:41:26,960
to you and like, oh, we'll give you free stuff if you post this, you're like, no, pay me.

557
00:41:26,960 --> 00:41:32,200
And then they're like, oh, we don't have budget. I'm like, well, okay.

558
00:41:32,200 --> 00:41:35,400
You're just expected to live off the nature, I guess.

559
00:41:35,400 --> 00:41:41,040
Yeah, which yeah, unfortunately climbing shoes won't pay my rent.

560
00:41:41,040 --> 00:41:49,400
That's the issue. But I mean, I guess so like YouTube should help a little bit, but it is

561
00:41:49,400 --> 00:41:54,760
a lot of work to put out YouTube videos. So how do you balance YouTube and your competition

562
00:41:54,760 --> 00:41:56,600
schedule?

563
00:41:56,600 --> 00:42:05,720
So how I usually do it is like, so now during like the off season, I organize with my friend

564
00:42:05,720 --> 00:42:12,480
of mine who he's a videographer. We like get certain days and then on those days we like

565
00:42:12,480 --> 00:42:17,640
do a whole day of filming. We try to like film four videos with different concepts.

566
00:42:17,640 --> 00:42:24,320
You know, it's crazy. And then we do that like a couple of times and then by like, I

567
00:42:24,320 --> 00:42:34,280
mean, if I do three videos a day of filming, and I do that over two months, like maybe

568
00:42:34,280 --> 00:42:46,000
two times a month, I have like 16 to 18 videos in like, yeah, five days. So that already

569
00:42:46,000 --> 00:42:53,360
is like almost four months worth, five months worth of videos in the future. So I have a

570
00:42:53,360 --> 00:42:57,720
lot of backlog. So like times where I don't have time to film. So like now during the

571
00:42:57,720 --> 00:43:02,040
comp season where I don't have time to like drive all the way to meet my videographer,

572
00:43:02,040 --> 00:43:08,920
find a day to like film all of this. I have like 10 videos in stock to edit before drying

573
00:43:08,920 --> 00:43:09,920
out.

574
00:43:09,920 --> 00:43:15,280
Okay, that makes sense. That's a good idea. Do you like change outfits in between to make

575
00:43:15,280 --> 00:43:20,160
it look like it's not the same?

576
00:43:20,160 --> 00:43:24,640
I think at the beginning, I changed a lot. And now I've just gone to a point where it's

577
00:43:24,640 --> 00:43:30,320
like, I wear the same clothes all the time anyway. So it doesn't matter.

578
00:43:30,320 --> 00:43:36,120
Good to know. You mentioned that in one of the sort of recent videos you had posted,

579
00:43:36,120 --> 00:43:41,520
you got some comments about wearing a weight vest while climbing. Yeah, you said you got

580
00:43:41,520 --> 00:43:43,360
like some weird comments about it.

581
00:43:43,360 --> 00:43:52,000
Yeah, so recently I did a video on climbing with a weight vest. And like the whole purpose

582
00:43:52,000 --> 00:43:58,040
for me on this video was just to like kind of show how my climbing changes. Because also

583
00:43:58,040 --> 00:44:06,480
climbing with a weight vest is a way of training that I used to use back in the day. And so

584
00:44:06,480 --> 00:44:10,960
it was just to like experiment on how I felt with the weight vest again and how it affects

585
00:44:10,960 --> 00:44:17,640
my climbing. And the conclusion was, well, yeah, with putting an extra five kilos on

586
00:44:17,640 --> 00:44:24,800
from one second to another, I wasn't as explosive. I also wasn't as like confident in my climbing

587
00:44:24,800 --> 00:44:29,440
because I mean, I wasn't sure if I could do this move with this weight vest. I was also

588
00:44:29,440 --> 00:44:35,640
a bit more hesitant. And then I got a few comments about like, where we jumped to the

589
00:44:35,640 --> 00:44:40,880
conclusion where, oh, so to be a better climber, I need to lose weight. And it's like, no,

590
00:44:40,880 --> 00:44:46,440
that was not the whole, that was not the point of my video. I would be, that would be the

591
00:44:46,440 --> 00:44:54,840
last thing I would ever try to pass on. Even more so in this video, I did all the same

592
00:44:54,840 --> 00:45:01,320
boulders that I did without a weight vest, except for one. So it's kind of proves that

593
00:45:01,320 --> 00:45:06,960
like I can climb just as strong. It's just that you just need to climb with it more regularly

594
00:45:06,960 --> 00:45:10,880
and then you're probably feel more confident. But yeah, I got a few comments where it's

595
00:45:10,880 --> 00:45:16,960
like, okay, so being lighter is better and you could climb stronger. I'm like, no, to

596
00:45:16,960 --> 00:45:23,440
climb strong, you need to train, you need to eat, you need to build muscle and have

597
00:45:23,440 --> 00:45:31,000
energy to be able to train. I don't know how many hours a week. And I think like that's

598
00:45:31,000 --> 00:45:36,360
the bad mental side that we have in climbing where it's like, oh, if I want to be a better

599
00:45:36,360 --> 00:45:40,720
climber, then I need to be able to pull less weight. If I have less weight, I can pull

600
00:45:40,720 --> 00:45:49,400
more. But it's not like that at all. And I was just, yeah, I want to bring everyone out

601
00:45:49,400 --> 00:45:51,160
of that mental state.

602
00:45:51,160 --> 00:45:56,080
Yeah, that was like a weird conclusion. Cause I mean, like a bunch of people have made those

603
00:45:56,080 --> 00:46:00,040
kinds of videos where they try to like climb with a weight vest on.

604
00:46:00,040 --> 00:46:08,200
Yeah. And it's, I don't know, I talked about like weight and climbing on Instagram one

605
00:46:08,200 --> 00:46:17,160
time and really try to like share my experience, but like I didn't even think a weight, like

606
00:46:17,160 --> 00:46:21,680
that conclusion could come from putting on a weight vest. So maybe, and then I was like

607
00:46:21,680 --> 00:46:27,360
doubting like, oh shit, did I, was this like a bad idea? Was this a bad video? And at the

608
00:46:27,360 --> 00:46:32,240
same time, like, but no, because this is a training method and I'm showing people that

609
00:46:32,240 --> 00:46:34,920
even with extra weight, I can climb hard.

610
00:46:34,920 --> 00:46:40,760
Yeah. Maybe it's just like all the talk about it lately in competition scenes and like most

611
00:46:40,760 --> 00:46:45,560
people who watch your channel also watch competitions. Whereas with like other channels, it's just

612
00:46:45,560 --> 00:46:51,040
like people who like climbing. So they're kind of like primed to think about it in that

613
00:46:51,040 --> 00:46:57,320
way. Or maybe like, I kind of wonder if it's, cause like most of the other people who have

614
00:46:57,320 --> 00:47:05,320
made those videos are like male YouTubers and climbers. And they don't really, I don't

615
00:47:05,320 --> 00:47:10,680
know, people tend to not really care as much about men's bodies, I guess.

616
00:47:10,680 --> 00:47:19,320
Yeah. That's also one thing I thought of. It was like, is it because like I'm a woman

617
00:47:19,320 --> 00:47:23,960
and is it because like you can also like women are judged a bit more about their body types,

618
00:47:23,960 --> 00:47:30,600
their weights. And so like, I don't know if it was women commenting, but it could also

619
00:47:30,600 --> 00:47:38,040
be like, if it was a woman who commented, maybe also like feeling bad because they're

620
00:47:38,040 --> 00:47:42,720
maybe not necessarily like feeling good in their climbing or in their skills and on like

621
00:47:42,720 --> 00:47:49,960
their body image. And so it's like, I, that's why like my response was like very, like I

622
00:47:49,960 --> 00:47:56,600
was trying to be encouraging and be like, no, the climbing you have to eat, like to

623
00:47:56,600 --> 00:48:02,560
get stronger, to build muscles, recuperate. But it's always an interesting, it's always

624
00:48:02,560 --> 00:48:07,280
interesting to compare like comments on men's videos and women's videos.

625
00:48:07,280 --> 00:48:12,520
Yeah. I mean, even within like the whole red-ass discussion, I think a lot of times it's about

626
00:48:12,520 --> 00:48:17,080
people don't really think about it on the men's side as much, even though it does happen.

627
00:48:17,080 --> 00:48:23,680
Yeah. I guess, do you feel like, so I don't know much about this because I never exercised

628
00:48:23,680 --> 00:48:29,760
when I was a kid, but when it comes to like your body changing from puberty, do you feel

629
00:48:29,760 --> 00:48:39,080
like you felt a difference in terms of how you climbed? Like you had to relearn anything?

630
00:48:39,080 --> 00:48:44,960
I wouldn't say I felt a difference in how I climbed. It was more like when I was younger,

631
00:48:44,960 --> 00:48:50,160
I mean, I still can, but when I was younger, I could eat so much food and not put on like

632
00:48:50,160 --> 00:48:57,720
a gram. And it was kind of when I hit that puberty phase where I was continuing to like

633
00:48:57,720 --> 00:49:02,520
eat the same things and I wasn't the healthiest of kids either. Like I ate chips, sweets,

634
00:49:02,520 --> 00:49:09,160
like chop everything. I mean, I still do, but during that puberty phase, like I was

635
00:49:09,160 --> 00:49:14,440
very skinny as a kid because I did a lot of sports. I did so many things. And then once

636
00:49:14,440 --> 00:49:17,680
I hit that puberty phase, I was still doing the same amount of sports, still eating the

637
00:49:17,680 --> 00:49:26,960
same amount, but because you're going through that phase, I was gaining weight. And for

638
00:49:26,960 --> 00:49:34,200
me, since like around me, I heard a lot of, be careful, you don't want to put on too much

639
00:49:34,200 --> 00:49:39,120
weight. It's going to affect your climbing. That's when I was like, oh my gosh, I'm putting

640
00:49:39,120 --> 00:49:45,640
on weight. Like what's wrong? Like this is terrible, da da da. And so that's when the

641
00:49:45,640 --> 00:49:52,360
overthinking on food kind of hit in. But the thing is, is that during puberty, yeah, you're

642
00:49:52,360 --> 00:49:56,520
growing, your body's changing. It's normal that your weight fluctuates. And it's something

643
00:49:56,520 --> 00:50:01,760
that I feel like isn't talked about enough, especially for like younger athletes coming

644
00:50:01,760 --> 00:50:11,600
up. Like they may think, oh, I need to stay the same weight that I was at 12, which unfortunately

645
00:50:11,600 --> 00:50:18,240
is impossible. And that's something that I didn't hear when I was like going through

646
00:50:18,240 --> 00:50:23,600
that phase. And so all I heard was like, got to be careful. You're going to get fat or

647
00:50:23,600 --> 00:50:27,280
you're going to put on weight. You're going to like for climbing, you want to be light.

648
00:50:27,280 --> 00:50:32,360
And so for me, it was like, oh my gosh, yes, I need to stop eating.

649
00:50:32,360 --> 00:50:39,240
Yeah. I just, I have no idea what going through that would kind of feel like. I guess I just

650
00:50:39,240 --> 00:50:44,880
know from like seeing humans that there's a very big difference between what like a

651
00:50:44,880 --> 00:50:51,280
child's body looks like and what an adult's body looks like. And I guess in sports, people

652
00:50:51,280 --> 00:50:57,640
kind of want to keep what they're used to just because they've been with that body for

653
00:50:57,640 --> 00:50:58,960
so long.

654
00:50:58,960 --> 00:51:06,720
It's hard. Yeah. It's so hard to like really understand where it comes from. But I think,

655
00:51:06,720 --> 00:51:15,040
yeah, mostly for me was like, I think, yeah, when I was 14, 15, I was maybe like 42, 46

656
00:51:15,040 --> 00:51:24,560
kilos. And so in a short span of time, like I had gained much more weight and like, I

657
00:51:24,560 --> 00:51:28,120
didn't even necessarily feel the difference when I was climbing. That's the worst part.

658
00:51:28,120 --> 00:51:33,640
It's just that you see the scales. Like you see that change and you're like, it's like,

659
00:51:33,640 --> 00:51:38,880
yeah, climbing is a weight sport. This is going to affect my climbing. And so I'm going

660
00:51:38,880 --> 00:51:43,920
to be worse if I put on more weight, but not at all. Like I was gaining muscle. I was gaining

661
00:51:43,920 --> 00:51:51,160
strength. So it's like, I'm actually feeling stronger than I ever have, even though I've

662
00:51:51,160 --> 00:51:52,640
put on six kilos.

663
00:51:52,640 --> 00:51:55,440
I guess how did you snap out of that mentality?

664
00:51:55,440 --> 00:52:03,960
I had a lot of help from like friends, family, but also like psychologist, nutritionist doctor.

665
00:52:03,960 --> 00:52:12,720
When I was younger, my doctor was like, look, you're very on the limit to red S. I want

666
00:52:12,720 --> 00:52:18,640
you to get into contact with this nutritionist. She's a good friend of mine. She's great.

667
00:52:18,640 --> 00:52:24,920
Which I did, but it happened in two phases. The first phase I went to go talk to her and

668
00:52:24,920 --> 00:52:32,120
she was like, yeah, so of course for energy, for you to, you need food, you can eat bread,

669
00:52:32,120 --> 00:52:35,960
you can carbs is what's going to give you energy. And in my head, I was just like, I

670
00:52:35,960 --> 00:52:39,160
was listening to her, but I was like, I'm never going to eat bread ever again.

671
00:52:39,160 --> 00:52:44,920
Oh my gosh. Nope. No pasta. Okay. You're telling me this, but I'm going to eat as little as

672
00:52:44,920 --> 00:52:51,280
possible. So I wasn't like ready to accept her help, but it was as like years went by

673
00:52:51,280 --> 00:52:56,720
where I kind of like noticed from like, this is not good. I don't have a good relationship

674
00:52:56,720 --> 00:53:03,360
with food. Like I reduce my meals as much as possible to then be starving in the middle

675
00:53:03,360 --> 00:53:09,400
of the night to then go eat. And it's like, that is not how it's supposed to be. So I

676
00:53:09,400 --> 00:53:14,800
think it's also a lot like myself who kind of realized like my frontal lobe maybe developed

677
00:53:14,800 --> 00:53:21,760
a bit more. I was like, this is not normal. And that's when I also recontacted her again

678
00:53:21,760 --> 00:53:27,400
and she's like, okay, look, we're going to work on this. I had to download like an app

679
00:53:27,400 --> 00:53:31,600
and like I'd sent her my meals. And since I was motivated and really wanted to like

680
00:53:31,600 --> 00:53:39,240
work on it and find a good relationship with food, I was like, okay, yeah, this is what

681
00:53:39,240 --> 00:53:40,600
I need to do to get better.

682
00:53:40,600 --> 00:53:46,000
Well, did you like tell your nutritionist that you hadn't actually been doing what she

683
00:53:46,000 --> 00:53:47,000
said?

684
00:53:47,000 --> 00:53:51,160
Yeah, it was, it was a couple years later. Like I think I was wondering two years later

685
00:53:51,160 --> 00:53:55,660
after the first time I saw her, I was like, oh, to be honest, what you were telling me

686
00:53:55,660 --> 00:54:04,400
back in the day, I just was not accepting it. But now I'm ready to like listen and hear

687
00:54:04,400 --> 00:54:11,240
what you have to say and really work on it. And she was like, well, the fact that you

688
00:54:11,240 --> 00:54:17,160
said that shows that you've grown as a person and also as an athlete. So thank you for sharing.

689
00:54:17,160 --> 00:54:23,520
I was like, you're welcome. Yeah. But my psychologist also helped. She was like, you need to share

690
00:54:23,520 --> 00:54:30,700
like what you're thinking and you can never really overshare when it comes to these kinds

691
00:54:30,700 --> 00:54:31,700
of things.

692
00:54:31,700 --> 00:54:34,400
Never hide stuff from your doctors or nutritionists.

693
00:54:34,400 --> 00:54:37,320
No, no, never. You should always be honest.

694
00:54:37,320 --> 00:54:41,320
Well, I'm glad you had that support system. I think that always helps a lot.

695
00:54:41,320 --> 00:54:42,320
Yeah, for sure.

696
00:54:42,320 --> 00:54:52,200
I do have a question about, I guess, like weight and climbing. I don't want it to, I

697
00:54:52,200 --> 00:54:58,200
don't know if it's like a bad question, so it might get cut out. But do people do like

698
00:54:58,200 --> 00:55:05,600
bulking and cutting sessions and like with the competition season, like they do in other

699
00:55:05,600 --> 00:55:06,600
sports?

700
00:55:06,600 --> 00:55:15,440
Yeah. So I think there is like a phase before comps where people are like, or athletes can

701
00:55:15,440 --> 00:55:24,120
be like, okay, well, I'm going to try to like get as lean as possible. Which I won't lie

702
00:55:24,120 --> 00:55:33,600
is something that I do, but I don't reduce my meals. I reduce the chips and the chocolate

703
00:55:33,600 --> 00:55:43,400
that I'm eating. So it's more like I try to like during the winter phase, it's more like,

704
00:55:43,400 --> 00:55:52,200
oh, well, season's over. I'm just going to enjoy like eating the foods that I enjoy most,

705
00:55:52,200 --> 00:55:59,000
which is like chocolate, chips, sweets. And I have that a bit more during the winter phase.

706
00:55:59,000 --> 00:56:07,240
And then once it's comps, I kind of like, I don't really know why, because I guess it

707
00:56:07,240 --> 00:56:12,800
doesn't necessarily affect my climbing. But I think also just like thinking that I'm eating

708
00:56:12,800 --> 00:56:21,080
cleaner also like helps. So I'm like, okay, well, I'm just going to, I don't cut everything

709
00:56:21,080 --> 00:56:29,640
out. Like I'm just, I like, I just eat really big amount of chips. So like I had a discussion

710
00:56:29,640 --> 00:56:33,960
with my boyfriend where he was like, it's not by reducing the amount of chips you eat

711
00:56:33,960 --> 00:56:38,640
that you're going to lose weight. I'm like, if I have a pack of chips a day, which is

712
00:56:38,640 --> 00:56:46,480
like 500 calories, of course it is. Like, replace that with something healthier. Exactly.

713
00:56:46,480 --> 00:56:52,160
Replace that with pasta or like it's like, of course you're going to see an influence

714
00:56:52,160 --> 00:56:56,560
on like body weight. And so that's just kind of the shift that I do. Like I just, instead

715
00:56:56,560 --> 00:57:02,400
of having a bag of chips a day, I have maybe one a week. Like that bag of chips last me

716
00:57:02,400 --> 00:57:08,040
the whole week. Yeah. Okay. Yeah. I mean, I guess I was wondering, because I know like

717
00:57:08,040 --> 00:57:14,960
a lot of other sports, people do like a huge bulk where they're like trying to put on as

718
00:57:14,960 --> 00:57:21,640
much muscle as they can, like fat, whatever, it doesn't matter. And then once like the

719
00:57:21,640 --> 00:57:27,280
competition is about to happen, that's when they like cut all of it. And then they sometimes

720
00:57:27,280 --> 00:57:34,040
get into kind of a dangerous zone where they really shouldn't be there, but they're only

721
00:57:34,040 --> 00:57:38,560
going to do that for a little and then it'll like all come back on. So maybe it's fine.

722
00:57:38,560 --> 00:57:45,760
I don't know the nutrition side there. Yeah. I don't totally think that's the best. Okay.

723
00:57:45,760 --> 00:57:55,460
Like, because like I definitely agree to put on muscle, you need to eat more protein. But

724
00:57:55,460 --> 00:58:00,880
I think the idea of like telling yourself to eat as much as possible, to like gain as

725
00:58:00,880 --> 00:58:05,840
much muscle as possible, to then reduce my calories afterwards. I think that's where

726
00:58:05,840 --> 00:58:12,560
like, yeah, the kind of like disordered eating can sometimes come in. Whereas if you just

727
00:58:12,560 --> 00:58:18,080
eat the same amount of calories the whole time, you just like maybe switch things up

728
00:58:18,080 --> 00:58:24,800
where you like eat more protein throughout the day for like muscle building. And then

729
00:58:24,800 --> 00:58:29,560
maybe during the comp phase, just like then reduce protein and have more carbs. That I

730
00:58:29,560 --> 00:58:35,120
find that much more efficient. And then you just have like a normal balance throughout

731
00:58:35,120 --> 00:58:40,600
your whole life of like food intake. Although if it's always like, eat more, now reduce,

732
00:58:40,600 --> 00:58:48,560
eat more, now reduce. It's like you're never really like intuitively eating. It's always

733
00:58:48,560 --> 00:58:53,000
like, you're always counting. You're always watching what you're eating. You're always

734
00:58:53,000 --> 00:58:58,800
like, I need to eat a thousand more calories today, whether it's eating more or less. It's

735
00:58:58,800 --> 00:59:03,960
like, ah, I need to eat a thousand more or I need to eat 300 less. It's like you're always

736
00:59:03,960 --> 00:59:11,720
constantly thinking of food. And so it's like already that I find unhealthy. Although if

737
00:59:11,720 --> 00:59:17,640
you just always have like the same amount of food intake, you just change the proportions

738
00:59:17,640 --> 00:59:23,080
of like protein, carbs. I find that so much more healthier.

739
00:59:23,080 --> 00:59:29,040
Yeah, it's a lot easier mentally for sure. Yeah, because then you're just like, okay,

740
00:59:29,040 --> 00:59:35,400
well I'm hungry. I'm going to make myself a meal. This is my meal. I have, I don't know,

741
00:59:35,400 --> 00:59:41,200
my protein in it. And then when I'm done, I'm full. Although if you're calorie counting,

742
00:59:41,200 --> 00:59:46,540
you're like, okay, let me weigh my pasta that I'm about to make. Let me count the sauce

743
00:59:46,540 --> 00:59:52,160
that I'm putting in. There's just so much to think about.

744
00:59:52,160 --> 00:59:58,000
Yeah. Maybe something I need to ask like a bodybuilder about.

745
00:59:58,000 --> 01:00:07,320
My cousin's boyfriend is in, I think, bodybuilding. And I should actually also ask him how it

746
01:00:07,320 --> 01:00:13,120
is mentally because I see he's always like posting like video because they also like

747
01:00:13,120 --> 01:00:19,720
take pictures of themselves for like progress. Yeah. And it's very like image, body image

748
01:00:19,720 --> 01:00:27,520
dependent. So I always wondered like, how does it actually affect them? Because I feel

749
01:00:27,520 --> 01:00:32,760
like that is the perfect way to get into disordered eating and not feel confident at all in your

750
01:00:32,760 --> 01:00:37,760
body. Yeah. Well, I mean, that's kind of like their whole lifestyle. Like that is their

751
01:00:37,760 --> 01:00:44,760
livelihood, like cooking and cutting. So I'm like, it seems it's definitely not for me,

752
01:00:44,760 --> 01:00:50,360
but is it fine? Like, I don't know. There must be so much research into it. Maybe it

753
01:00:50,360 --> 01:00:54,360
is fine. So yeah, I'm not sure.

754
01:00:54,360 --> 01:00:59,160
It should be yet really interesting to get into. I'll get into that too.

755
01:00:59,160 --> 01:01:05,000
Okay. Yeah, let me know. Yeah. And yeah, I just wanted to know if any climbers did it.

756
01:01:05,000 --> 01:01:08,760
Like do you know if anyone does it like that?

757
01:01:08,760 --> 01:01:17,080
I don't personally know. I just feel like it's a general, like there was like, I even

758
01:01:17,080 --> 01:01:24,720
recently had a discussion with my coach where he was like, also just to like go back onto

759
01:01:24,720 --> 01:01:30,480
training and all of that. I don't want you to feel like when it comes to comp season

760
01:01:30,480 --> 01:01:37,080
that you need to cut because I know it's like a general understanding that this is comp

761
01:01:37,080 --> 01:01:43,480
climbers do and not necessarily just climbers, but athletes in general, the athletes before

762
01:01:43,480 --> 01:01:53,560
their big event, they like cut as much as they can. He was like, I don't want you to

763
01:01:53,560 --> 01:01:59,080
think that that's what you need to do. But yeah, I don't personally know anyone, but

764
01:01:59,080 --> 01:02:05,880
I think because it just happens so often in so many sports, like for sure in climbing,

765
01:02:05,880 --> 01:02:10,440
it happens. I mean, you can even tell sometimes like you see a climber winter and then you

766
01:02:10,440 --> 01:02:17,920
see them before comp season. It's like they've been cutting. But it could also like, you

767
01:02:17,920 --> 01:02:23,840
can do it in a healthy way. That's the thing. Yeah. Yeah. Like this is why I find it's such

768
01:02:23,840 --> 01:02:29,240
a sensitive subject because there's that bad mentality in climbing where it's like, I need

769
01:02:29,240 --> 01:02:34,160
to be lighter to be stronger. But if you're doing it in a healthy way and in a way where

770
01:02:34,160 --> 01:02:41,800
it's like, I'm not going to reduce or like maybe reduced by like 100, 200 calories, but

771
01:02:41,800 --> 01:02:47,320
like I'm not going to do this crazy cut or whatever. I'm just going to eat a bit more

772
01:02:47,320 --> 01:02:54,240
healthier and just be careful on certain things that I'm eating. Then it can be just, yeah,

773
01:02:54,240 --> 01:03:04,080
then it's just like more natural law. Yeah. Obvious kind of, and be like, I need to reduce

774
01:03:04,080 --> 01:03:08,640
500 calories and this is what my meal is going to be. And this is the amount of grams that

775
01:03:08,640 --> 01:03:14,240
I need to have. I feel like once you start doing that, it's unhealthy. Yeah. That's a

776
01:03:14,240 --> 01:03:20,200
bit dangerous. I guess we'll just say, we'll just wrap it up with maybe there needs to

777
01:03:20,200 --> 01:03:27,120
be more research in terms of bulking cutting and work with a nutritionist. Yeah. I definitely

778
01:03:27,120 --> 01:03:34,600
think a nutritionist will help you for sure. If you're doubting on your food intake. And

779
01:03:34,600 --> 01:03:39,800
I think, I think the general thing is just like, if you're in a healthy mindset, then

780
01:03:39,800 --> 01:03:45,000
I guess it's fine. But once it becomes to be obsessive, then you need to take a step

781
01:03:45,000 --> 01:03:49,680
back and be like, something is wrong. All right. Well, we'll wrap that up there. Unless

782
01:03:49,680 --> 01:03:55,360
you had anything else that you wanted to touch on with that. No, I think it's all good. Okay.

783
01:03:55,360 --> 01:04:02,920
So, yeah, let's go into a bit more of, I guess, your personal life. You're pretty open about

784
01:04:02,920 --> 01:04:10,400
being in a relationship with another pro comp climber on the circuit. Yes. And so that's

785
01:04:10,400 --> 01:04:14,620
great because I feel like there must be a lot more relationships behind the scenes that

786
01:04:14,620 --> 01:04:21,280
we don't hear about. I mean, does it happen a lot? You guys spend a lot of time together.

787
01:04:21,280 --> 01:04:28,160
So I mean, just naturally, I never, I never knew about Tomoa and Akio until they like

788
01:04:28,160 --> 01:04:35,240
got married on Instagram. I was like, I didn't know they were, I think. Oh, like you would

789
01:04:35,240 --> 01:04:40,520
see them on the circuit and still not know. Yeah. And still not know. Okay. But I think

790
01:04:40,520 --> 01:04:43,840
they're just very discreet people in general, like the Japanese in general. But yeah, there's

791
01:04:43,840 --> 01:04:48,320
sometimes also then like you see a new relationship come out when you're like, oh, and you'd

792
01:04:48,320 --> 01:04:54,040
see that like before Instagram, you'd see it on the comp scene and be like, oh, okay,

793
01:04:54,040 --> 01:05:01,600
cool. Any like, well, no, I'm not going to ask for like names or anything. But does it,

794
01:05:01,600 --> 01:05:09,400
do you feel like it gets messy? I feel like the climbing community is really small. So

795
01:05:09,400 --> 01:05:15,840
there's a lot of gossip and everyone kind of knows everyone, especially on the comp

796
01:05:15,840 --> 01:05:30,360
scene where like you see everyone on the, yeah, comps. I don't personally know much

797
01:05:30,360 --> 01:05:38,240
of like the gossip gossip behind the scenes of what really goes on. But I think there's,

798
01:05:38,240 --> 01:05:48,640
yeah, there's quite a lot of things going on. Okay. Did, I mean, did you ever, did you

799
01:05:48,640 --> 01:05:56,000
like consider that before going into your relationship where it's like, maybe I, maybe

800
01:05:56,000 --> 01:06:00,320
this isn't a good idea. Like if something bad happened, we would see each other all

801
01:06:00,320 --> 01:06:11,080
the time everywhere. No, that's not, I never really thought of it that way. For me it was

802
01:06:11,080 --> 01:06:19,240
more like, okay, someone at comps, I'm going to be able to see them at every comp too.

803
01:06:19,240 --> 01:06:25,240
Also like training wise, we like love the same thing. And so we could go on climbing

804
01:06:25,240 --> 01:06:30,320
trips. We can, that was kind of more like my mental side. I was like, oh my God, this

805
01:06:30,320 --> 01:06:36,240
is great actually. Nice. Yeah. There's so many things that we can do that we both enjoy

806
01:06:36,240 --> 01:06:41,720
instead of like, if someone who doesn't climb be like, well, what do you want to do? Do

807
01:06:41,720 --> 01:06:49,000
you not want to go on a climbing trip next summer for three weeks? So no, I was a lot

808
01:06:49,000 --> 01:06:53,760
more like on the positive side than like, oh, if it ends, I'm going to have to see this

809
01:06:53,760 --> 01:07:00,960
person for my rest of the career. Okay. That's good to know. Is it like difficult that you

810
01:07:00,960 --> 01:07:05,040
guys live in different countries? I guess now you're kind of splitting your time. So

811
01:07:05,040 --> 01:07:11,360
maybe that was part of the reason. Yeah. No. So now it's really easy because I see him

812
01:07:11,360 --> 01:07:19,800
almost every day. Yeah. Cause I'm like half living here in Innsbruck and then also half

813
01:07:19,800 --> 01:07:25,360
like back at home with my parents. So it's not right now. It's really easy, but once

814
01:07:25,360 --> 01:07:31,280
it's kind of like getting into the like more serious side, it was like, okay, well we won't

815
01:07:31,280 --> 01:07:37,160
see each other for two weeks and then I'll see you. Yeah. Well we have time, which was

816
01:07:37,160 --> 01:07:43,600
a bit harder. It's like, oh, I don't like long distance. Yeah. But we sorted that out

817
01:07:43,600 --> 01:07:48,480
quite fast. So that's okay. Yeah. Was that like kind of like the most challenging thing

818
01:07:48,480 --> 01:07:57,280
about dating another like comp climber or were there like other challenges there? I

819
01:07:57,280 --> 01:08:06,520
think for me it was like more the long distance, like how will it work potentially? But since

820
01:08:06,520 --> 01:08:12,720
I finished uni and decided to just like focus a hundred percent on climbing, well I had

821
01:08:12,720 --> 01:08:17,200
the time to move around and since he like also focuses a hundred percent on climbing,

822
01:08:17,200 --> 01:08:23,800
like we had a lot of flexibility to move around that. I think for me the big question was

823
01:08:23,800 --> 01:08:28,800
like, is it okay if then I'm not in Switzerland as much, if I'm not training with the team

824
01:08:28,800 --> 01:08:34,520
as much, if I don't see my coach as much. But that I had like a huge discussion with

825
01:08:34,520 --> 01:08:40,760
my coach. I had a huge discussion with like the also Austrian team coaches to see if I

826
01:08:40,760 --> 01:08:48,240
could like train with them and everyone was so understanding and helpful and we like figured

827
01:08:48,240 --> 01:08:56,400
it all out and now I'm fine. Yeah. So do you spend a lot of time training with him? Yeah.

828
01:08:56,400 --> 01:09:02,960
That's yeah. I train with my coach or with my boyfriend? Oh, with your boyfriend. Yeah.

829
01:09:02,960 --> 01:09:10,360
Yeah. Almost every session is like he's there. Sometimes he's like, of course, like training

830
01:09:10,360 --> 01:09:15,640
with the guys on the team because I guess that's one thing for me, training with him

831
01:09:15,640 --> 01:09:20,440
can only bring me positive things because he's just so much stronger than me. I guess

832
01:09:20,440 --> 01:09:29,820
him training with me is a bit probably not as beneficial as it is for me because he's

833
01:09:29,820 --> 01:09:37,880
not necessarily, like if it's just us climbing, he sometimes finds it hard to get himself

834
01:09:37,880 --> 01:09:44,160
a bit more motivated to like try hard and just like power it out because I'm not as

835
01:09:44,160 --> 01:09:49,920
strong. Because he just, he just doesn't have that person to like also like push him and

836
01:09:49,920 --> 01:09:55,120
be like, oh, this border is possible. Okay, let's do it together. But for me, because

837
01:09:55,120 --> 01:09:59,360
he's stronger and he's like, you could do this. It's just that I'm like, yeah, of course

838
01:09:59,360 --> 01:10:04,960
I can. Yeah. Yeah, I agree with that. Yeah. It's always nice to climb with someone stronger.

839
01:10:04,960 --> 01:10:12,680
I also find it really hard to get motivation if I'm the only stronger climber. Because

840
01:10:12,680 --> 01:10:17,480
then, yeah, if you like come across a boulder that you can't do, you're like, well, maybe

841
01:10:17,480 --> 01:10:24,360
it's just not possible. Yeah, exactly. And so it's, it's a big like, not necessarily

842
01:10:24,360 --> 01:10:30,320
battle in your head, but it's like, okay, you can, you can just try hard, like give

843
01:10:30,320 --> 01:10:35,880
it all like, maybe, but if someone else is with you where they maybe do a move and you're

844
01:10:35,880 --> 01:10:39,760
like, oh, great, it is possible. And then maybe you do the other move and it's like,

845
01:10:39,760 --> 01:10:43,480
okay, we can definitely work on this. We can definitely get it together. So I have that

846
01:10:43,480 --> 01:10:49,720
24 seven. He doesn't. Well, that is great. I'm glad that it's, I'm glad that it's working

847
01:10:49,720 --> 01:10:57,100
out for you. Thank you. Okay, so outside of climbing then, do you have time for like anything

848
01:10:57,100 --> 01:11:04,200
else that you like to do? Did you ever pick up an instrument as a kid when your parents

849
01:11:04,200 --> 01:11:11,040
were having you guys choose something? Yeah, I did the electric guitar for a couple of

850
01:11:11,040 --> 01:11:20,560
years. But put that aside, once I really got more into climbing. I think just like, right

851
01:11:20,560 --> 01:11:27,240
now it's whenever I have like after training, it'd be just more like, yeah, reading. When

852
01:11:27,240 --> 01:11:34,800
I went to reading, like I also enjoy running, doing like other activities. Like if I had

853
01:11:34,800 --> 01:11:43,040
the money, I do escape games every day, pilates, escape games, like escape rooms. Yeah, escape

854
01:11:43,040 --> 01:11:50,240
rooms. Yeah. Oh, that's so interesting. They're so good. I just, yeah, I enjoy just love that.

855
01:11:50,240 --> 01:11:53,680
I enjoy like everything. Yeah, YouTube takes up so much time. Like, so then I've gotten

856
01:11:53,680 --> 01:12:01,240
a lot more into like videography and photography. Like I really enjoy like taking pictures.

857
01:12:01,240 --> 01:12:05,080
Like if we ever go on a trip, I always have like my camera and then I'm like editing a

858
01:12:05,080 --> 01:12:11,680
bit. So there's yeah, a lot of small things, but if I had more money, I definitely do much

859
01:12:11,680 --> 01:12:16,880
more. Interesting. I feel like escape rooms is kind of different. I don't really hear

860
01:12:16,880 --> 01:12:22,760
people gush about escape rooms too much anymore these days. Yeah. There was a Harry Potter

861
01:12:22,760 --> 01:12:28,320
one that I did recently, which also just got me back into it. I was like, wow, Harry Potter.

862
01:12:28,320 --> 01:12:35,560
And this was great. Interesting. Okay. It was like, it was a big thing a few years ago

863
01:12:35,560 --> 01:12:39,240
and then it kind of like died down a bit. So I don't hear people talk about it so much

864
01:12:39,240 --> 01:12:45,560
anymore. I think also my parents, you know, my parents are into it too, or like my mom,

865
01:12:45,560 --> 01:12:48,640
every time we're all together as a family, she's like, I'm working as an escape room

866
01:12:48,640 --> 01:12:55,360
friend. Oh, wow. Fun. Okay. Good to know. If anyone wants to take you anywhere, it's

867
01:12:55,360 --> 01:13:03,120
the escape room. Escape room. Yep. Any goals for the future that you can think of? I've

868
01:13:03,120 --> 01:13:11,400
actually thought quite a bit recently because I just turned 26. I like I turned 26 two months

869
01:13:11,400 --> 01:13:19,200
ago now. And I was like, what am I going to do with my life? Thank you. How long am I

870
01:13:19,200 --> 01:13:25,600
going to continue doing comps for? What am I going to do when I stop? Like there's been

871
01:13:25,600 --> 01:13:30,320
a lot of, for some reason hitting the 26 and realizing I'm closer to 30 was kind of like

872
01:13:30,320 --> 01:13:41,360
a shock. Yeah, I know. I'm closer to 30 than 20. And I think also, yeah, with sports, I

873
01:13:41,360 --> 01:13:49,240
just like people consider, would consider me old in climbing compared to like the average

874
01:13:49,240 --> 01:13:56,800
age of like all the youth coming up now and they're born in like 2006. And yeah, so you're

875
01:13:56,800 --> 01:14:04,920
born before 2000, right? Yes. You were born in the 1900s, as people say. I'm still the

876
01:14:04,920 --> 01:14:13,280
cool generation. Imagine being born in 2000s. I know. I can't, I can't imagine. But no,

877
01:14:13,280 --> 01:14:21,560
so I have actually been thinking quite a bit of like my future and stuff. And I think for

878
01:14:21,560 --> 01:14:30,800
like the close future, I might head back to school. Like maybe do an online course on

879
01:14:30,800 --> 01:14:37,960
like cybersecurity, something like that. Cause that's something I find really interesting

880
01:14:37,960 --> 01:14:48,560
and could be really motivated to work in in the future. And otherwise maybe, yeah, like

881
01:14:48,560 --> 01:14:52,760
this coaching app and depending on how it goes, maybe like develop something more into

882
01:14:52,760 --> 01:15:02,200
coaching. I was also talking to my coach about maybe in the future coaching the Swiss team

883
01:15:02,200 --> 01:15:08,600
and all of that. And so there's a few options, few ideas, but for now, I think for the closer

884
01:15:08,600 --> 01:15:13,560
future is like this online training app and online school.

885
01:15:13,560 --> 01:15:19,760
Exciting. Sorry, you had to go through the getting closer to 30.

886
01:15:19,760 --> 01:15:29,520
Yeah. Realize certain things. It's rough. Yeah. It's weird. Well, for, yeah, I'm 27

887
01:15:29,520 --> 01:15:37,960
and for me, I do hang around a lot of like, there are a lot of like younger climbing people

888
01:15:37,960 --> 01:15:44,000
as well. So when I hear someone's 22, especially because of COVID, I think, especially because

889
01:15:44,000 --> 01:15:48,320
of COVID, I feel like I lost a few years. And so when I meet someone who's like 22,

890
01:15:48,320 --> 01:15:55,920
I'm like, okay, cool. We're like the same. And then I think in their mind, I'm like grandma.

891
01:15:55,920 --> 01:15:59,360
So that always hurts.

892
01:15:59,360 --> 01:16:05,840
For sure. Like I try to tell myself, look, COVID took two years of my life. So I'm not

893
01:16:05,840 --> 01:16:12,960
26. I'm 24. Exactly. But then like my boyfriend's two years younger than me. My brother is three

894
01:16:12,960 --> 01:16:17,680
years younger than me. Like everyone on the team and Dre, my teammate is a year older,

895
01:16:17,680 --> 01:16:25,840
but she is taking a year out to travel. So like now everyone on the team is like 2001

896
01:16:25,840 --> 01:16:34,760
and before. So I'm like, oh my gosh, I'm so old. But then I talked to my coach and he's

897
01:16:34,760 --> 01:16:41,000
like, look, once you hit 30, you'll realize that there's actually so much more in life

898
01:16:41,000 --> 01:16:47,200
than being in your twenties. Don't worry about it. I'm like, I will definitely agree. But

899
01:16:47,200 --> 01:16:54,160
right now it does not feel that way. Right now I feel like it's the end of my life.

900
01:16:54,160 --> 01:16:59,880
Yeah, I get that. Especially when I see all the posts about people being like, people

901
01:16:59,880 --> 01:17:03,200
are born in the 1900s.

902
01:17:03,200 --> 01:17:10,480
Yeah. And one post that I recently saw also where it's like, I grew up in the One Direction

903
01:17:10,480 --> 01:17:16,640
group. You know, I loved One Direction, loved them. And someone commented, Harry Styles

904
01:17:16,640 --> 01:17:25,520
was in One Direction. I was like, excuse me? How do you not know that?

905
01:17:25,520 --> 01:17:28,520
Or getting to that point in life.

906
01:17:28,520 --> 01:17:33,880
I feel like also, yeah, in sports, because people are always like, oh, you're getting

907
01:17:33,880 --> 01:17:42,120
old. What are you going to do? And it's like, I'm only 26. Like, maybe I'm a bit older

908
01:17:42,120 --> 01:17:46,800
on the older side in the sports, but people are climbing into like Yakup Shuler. He's

909
01:17:46,800 --> 01:17:51,400
32. Like Jane Kim. She had a kid and came back.

910
01:17:51,400 --> 01:17:54,320
Yeah, she has a huge inspiration.

911
01:17:54,320 --> 01:18:00,560
Huge inspiration. Like, let's stop making me feel old. Thank you. And with my Asian

912
01:18:00,560 --> 01:18:03,960
jeans, maybe I can go in time 40. Who knows?

913
01:18:03,960 --> 01:18:09,560
Yeah. The thing is, like, well, I don't really know when peak is, but then you still have

914
01:18:09,560 --> 01:18:14,160
the experience. So you gain experience. Maybe. Exactly.

915
01:18:14,160 --> 01:18:17,920
Physical peak. I don't know when that is, but you have the experience.

916
01:18:17,920 --> 01:18:23,680
Yeah. And I think, or at least up until now, I haven't felt a difference, I feel like,

917
01:18:23,680 --> 01:18:28,720
in anything. But sometimes I'm like, oh, my back hurts. And then you've got the younger

918
01:18:28,720 --> 01:18:34,720
one who's like, aren't you a grandma? I'm like, fuck that. You'll see. It will come.

919
01:18:34,720 --> 01:18:38,680
You're just young and haven't gone through puberty yet. You'll see.

920
01:18:38,680 --> 01:18:43,720
Yeah, you'll see in a few years. Everyone goes through it. It's the circle

921
01:18:43,720 --> 01:18:52,240
of life. Yeah. Okay. That's enough depressing talk.

922
01:18:52,240 --> 01:18:58,160
I think those were all the questions I had. We have a couple Discord questions or it was

923
01:18:58,160 --> 01:19:05,240
more like one question I want to go over and then a couple statements that people had.

924
01:19:05,240 --> 01:19:11,480
Not bad statements. So one was Tom Greenall, GB coach, said that he's a big fan and he

925
01:19:11,480 --> 01:19:14,240
was really happy that you're on. I didn't know you guys knew each other, so that was

926
01:19:14,240 --> 01:19:20,200
good to know. Yeah. So when I was doing comps in England

927
01:19:20,200 --> 01:19:24,360
and all that, he was the coach at that time. And so I got to know him really well.

928
01:19:24,360 --> 01:19:28,800
I feel that makes sense. And I used to see him at every comp and we'd

929
01:19:28,800 --> 01:19:32,360
always have a little chat and stuff. So, oh, that's so sweet.

930
01:19:32,360 --> 01:19:39,880
Yeah. Awesome. This other one from a person in the Discord, she said, I once called Sophia

931
01:19:39,880 --> 01:19:45,360
by the wrong name a year and a half ago and I still think about that at least weekly.

932
01:19:45,360 --> 01:19:49,680
So do you remember any occurrence of this? No.

933
01:19:49,680 --> 01:19:53,600
Okay, good. So then it's all good. No, no, no. It didn't. So, yep.

934
01:19:53,600 --> 01:19:58,800
No problem about that. No hard feelings. Okay. And then last question,

935
01:19:58,800 --> 01:20:06,720
who's your favorite YouTuber? That's a very good question.

936
01:20:06,720 --> 01:20:12,520
I don't really watch YouTube though. Okay. No, actually, no, I have a good answer for

937
01:20:12,520 --> 01:20:17,720
that. Natasha Osean. Oh, okay.

938
01:20:17,720 --> 01:20:24,160
And she recently did a video on how she's stopping YouTube, which made me so sad. That

939
01:20:24,160 --> 01:20:30,840
was the first person ever where I'm like, no, you're going to be like her presence.

940
01:20:30,840 --> 01:20:35,800
Like I loved her presence, her energy. And also everything was like scientific base and

941
01:20:35,800 --> 01:20:42,160
it was like proven things and not just like random people who are on YouTube and be like

942
01:20:42,160 --> 01:20:47,480
doing it for the clickbait and for the fame kind of. She was like here on to really pass

943
01:20:47,480 --> 01:20:51,280
on a message and I really love that. So yeah, I would say her.

944
01:20:51,280 --> 01:20:57,320
That's a good one. I agree. I don't hear many people talk about her because I mean, she's,

945
01:20:57,320 --> 01:21:00,280
she doesn't really do like climbing stuff generally, except for that one video with

946
01:21:00,280 --> 01:21:07,000
Yanya, which I was very surprised to see. Me too. I was like, oh my God, she's in climbing.

947
01:21:07,000 --> 01:21:10,880
This is so great. Yeah. I was like, I didn't even know she knew

948
01:21:10,880 --> 01:21:16,680
climbers. I didn't know that Yanya, I don't know how they got in contact, but I was so

949
01:21:16,680 --> 01:21:21,400
excited to see. I think everyone should watch that video. I think so too. And her videos

950
01:21:21,400 --> 01:21:27,360
in general, because I mean, that's one thing I don't do. I do not watch other YouTube climbers

951
01:21:27,360 --> 01:21:32,720
videos on YouTube. Like I, I watch my, I like, I have to watch mine because I edit them and

952
01:21:32,720 --> 01:21:38,480
that's already enough. I'm like, oh, that's enough climbing, enough climbing videos for

953
01:21:38,480 --> 01:21:44,680
now. Um, so I kind of try to like go out of YouTube.

954
01:21:44,680 --> 01:21:51,040
I was just watching these day in the life of some other YouTubers, which I enjoy, but

955
01:21:51,040 --> 01:21:55,040
not much more than that. Yeah. I really like her aesthetic as well.

956
01:21:55,040 --> 01:22:02,040
But so you never like watch other like strong climbers to try to get motivation to climb

957
01:22:02,040 --> 01:22:12,480
or train? No, I only watch like videos of boulders that

958
01:22:12,480 --> 01:22:19,440
I'm potentially interested in, like to get the methods, but otherwise motivation, I have

959
01:22:19,440 --> 01:22:22,440
it in my apartment. Yeah, that's true.

960
01:22:22,440 --> 01:22:26,720
Like with my boyfriend, like we both go, we're like, okay, let's go training. Okay, let's

961
01:22:26,720 --> 01:22:30,720
go. True. Okay. Yeah. I think for me, sometimes it

962
01:22:30,720 --> 01:22:36,340
helps. I try to like, before I know I'm about to go climbing, I try to watch a video of

963
01:22:36,340 --> 01:22:39,760
someone just doing hard boulders. That's it.

964
01:22:39,760 --> 01:22:43,080
So that I can get that motivation. Sometimes it doesn't work though.

965
01:22:43,080 --> 01:22:48,840
So I did back in the days, listen to motivational speeches though.

966
01:22:48,840 --> 01:22:54,320
Really? Like there was a time where I really, like I

967
01:22:54,320 --> 01:22:59,160
didn't have, cause I was still at like obligatory school. So I didn't have much time and I really

968
01:22:59,160 --> 01:23:04,160
had to like find ways. Like I'd wake up sometimes a bit earlier before school to train and then

969
01:23:04,160 --> 01:23:09,400
I'd have to train quite late in the evening. So to just like really boost that, I'd like

970
01:23:09,400 --> 01:23:12,840
listen to those motivational speeches like daily.

971
01:23:12,840 --> 01:23:16,440
Wow. Yeah, no, but I would believe those videos.

972
01:23:16,440 --> 01:23:21,360
Like I knew the lyrics by heart. Wait, lyrics?

973
01:23:21,360 --> 01:23:25,120
Well not lyrics, like what they were saying. Just the speech. Okay. Yeah. Just the speech.

974
01:23:25,120 --> 01:23:29,080
Don't need it anymore. Don't need it anymore.

975
01:23:29,080 --> 01:23:34,360
Luckily or luckily, I don't know. It was fun. I love their voices. It is really like, oh

976
01:23:34,360 --> 01:23:37,800
yes. Interesting. I've never tried that. Maybe

977
01:23:37,800 --> 01:23:40,840
I'll try something to give it a try. Is it?

978
01:23:40,840 --> 01:23:45,480
Cool. Well, I think that's all the questions then. Thanks for joining me today.

979
01:23:45,480 --> 01:23:47,720
Thanks for having me. I want to let people know where they can find

980
01:23:47,720 --> 01:23:55,720
you, your Instagram, YouTube, stuff like that. Yeah, you can Sophia Yokoyama, Instagram, YouTube.

981
01:23:55,720 --> 01:24:01,000
And I'll keep you guys updated on the training app.

982
01:24:01,000 --> 01:24:05,200
I was on Facebook, but I mean, I still am on Facebook, but no one uses Facebook anymore.

983
01:24:05,200 --> 01:24:10,320
So I don't need Facebook. Okay. Okay. Cool. Awesome. And yeah, hopefully

984
01:24:10,320 --> 01:24:13,080
the training plan stuff works out. Thank you.

985
01:24:13,080 --> 01:24:16,240
Okay. Thank you. It was amazing to talk to you.

986
01:24:16,240 --> 01:24:19,440
Likewise. Thank you so much for making it to the end

987
01:24:19,440 --> 01:24:24,920
of the podcast. Don't forget to like and subscribe if you enjoyed. Otherwise you are a super

988
01:24:24,920 --> 01:24:30,120
big climber. If you're listening on a podcasting platform, I'd appreciate if you rate it five

989
01:24:30,120 --> 01:24:35,720
stars and you can continue the discussion on the free competition climbing discord linked

990
01:24:35,720 --> 01:25:03,360
in the description. Thanks again for listening.