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Welcome to the Windshield Chronicles, a mental sequence of operation.

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This episode sponsored by Sunrise Refrigeration.

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Learn more about Sunrise Refrigeration at SunriseRef.com.

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Dennis Sukup, thank you for joining us once again.

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Let's dive a little into building and designing a box.

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Cliff, walk-in box is one of my favorite things.

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Something I love to do every day.

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Even my guys are amazed.

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I just went out and finished a big 42 foot long glass door box for a new liquor company

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here in Las Vegas.

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And I love sizing and designing walk-in boxes.

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So I think one of the most important steps is first off, you got to meet the customer.

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You got to know your audience.

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Know the customer.

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What is he doing?

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What's his business?

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How is he going to use this box?

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Because once I start the layout, I want to see how he's going to load it.

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So I know which way to swing the doors.

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Do my hinges go on the left?

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Do my hinges go on the right?

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You don't want to be banging into the door when you're coming with a hand cart full of

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food.

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You want to have a natural flow.

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So that begins part of the layout when I draw it on paper before I go to the manufacturer.

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But above and beyond that, one, now I need to know what size box.

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Can he fit?

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When he says to me, I want an 8 by 12 box.

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Okay.

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How high is that box?

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8 by 12 by 8 feet high.

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Now typically, I will go to the Heatcraft engineering manuals.

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I have found that to be one of the best tools, one of the most accurate.

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I have done walk-in boxes by letting other people tell me what I needed.

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And I'm sorry, they lived in San Diego and the weather in Las Vegas is not San Diego.

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Exactly.

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So three months out of the year, that box would not run.

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And I have to be performing as well on July 4th at 110 degrees as I do on New Year's Day.

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So you have to learn to do your own calculations.

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So when you use the Heatcraft manual, there's an average and there's a heavy usage.

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Well, I always stick with heavy usage.

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And this design work on this is just kind of a generic for restaurant operations.

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We have the expectation that there's a certain amount of product that comes in refrigerated

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already.

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It's not coming from a field, but it's coming from a refrigerator.

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And you're going to continue that.

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And it could be multiple type things.

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It's got lettuce, tomatoes, chicken, maybe beer kegs, whatever.

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So you go to the engineering manual, I select the BTUs for heavy usage for that size box.

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That's my foundation.

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Now I'm looking for extra things.

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Is there forklift entry?

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Is there glass doors?

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For an example, any glass doors like you see in a convenience store merchandiser, if it's

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a 35 degree box, those glass doors are going to cost you 1,360 BTUs per door.

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You got to add them up because that's part of the total BTU calculation that I'm headed

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for.

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If it's a freezer, minus 10 degree glass door, 1,730 BTUs per door.

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Adding that up, and now you're coming up with your grand total.

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And let's say I'm at a grand total of 40,000 BTUs with everything factored in.

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My lights, my people, my product, my glass doors.

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I have 40,000 BTUs that I need.

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I'm going to then step off and look for a compressor.

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Not for a compressor that can deliver 40,000 BTUs at 35 degrees.

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Not at box temperature.

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Right.

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That's box temperature.

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It has to give me 40,000 BTUs at 25 degrees because I have a 10 degree TD.

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A 10 degree TD on that coil.

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I need 25 degrees saturated suction temperature.

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That step causes most people to miss the mark because when they do that and they miss that

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10 degrees, they can't get that box below 40 degrees or 45.

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That's the first step mistake that was made.

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Now I'm going to have to continue to interview the customer and find out where does he want

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that compressor?

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Is it going inside the building on top of the box?

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Is it conditioned?

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Is it in the sun?

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Right.

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When he says to me, no, I need it to be on the roof of the building.

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Well, the other important factor you need to know is I need that 40,000 BTUs no matter

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what the temperature is outside.

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And I know now that when I go outside, the AHRI manuals are going to dictate that those

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BTU calculations are based on 95 degrees.

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So first off, the three months in Las Vegas, I am well beyond the 95.

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The deregulation factor for that is 6% for every 10 degrees beyond 95.

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So now my 40,000 has been dropped by 12%.

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This could cause me to select the next size bigger compressor.

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Because I still need the 40,000 downstairs is not changed.

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Exactly.

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The box BTU load is given.

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That is not changing.

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That's based on size, product, size, product, and other heat load factors, lights, indoors.

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That is not going to change.

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The weather outside may, but I still need to deliver that 40,000 BTU.

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The next thing you want to make sure of is when you have calculated out to your worst

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case scenario, let's say it's that 110 degree day is my worst case.

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I can't ever let my compressor output become smaller than the evaporator.

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In other words, if I let that compressor on 110 degree days slip to 38,000 BTUs, my evaporator

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is based at 40,000.

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I have just starved my evaporator.

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By reducing the capacity of my outdoor unit.

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The two things that technician is always looking for in setting superheat, is he flooding or

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is he starving the evaporator?

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And he has to adjust expansion valves accordingly.

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When you have starvation built in, you can't fix it.

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You are starving.

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So the worst months of the year, your customer is going to be complaining.

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My box will not keep temperature.

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That technicians up there checking superheat and all he's going to do is overcharge.

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Correct.

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Correct.

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He's going to try to compensate for something like that that he cannot do.

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So now you have a balanced system.

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You have a compressor that's going to do it year round.

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You have an evaporators that are going to do it year round.

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You have the expectation that I don't care how he loads that box.

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I'm going to guarantee you.

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And that's what I do here.

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I guarantee you 35 degrees, 365 days a year.

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If I can, in most cases, and this becomes a price factor, I put in what I call poor

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man's redundancy.

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Now poor man redundancy might be, is let's say I need a five horsepower compressor with

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an evaporator.

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If I can break that box and divide it with an imaginary line and I can put two, two and

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a half horsepower units and two evaporators inside that box, that's poor man redundancy.

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Whereas one unit fails.

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The panic is not there.

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That's right.

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The second unit will keep my product refrigerated and it won't keep me at 35, but it won't keep

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me at 65 either.

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$20,000 worth of beer at 65 is not the same as.

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Exactly.

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If you have a big freezer full of gelato and ice creams and it goes down and you don't

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have some sort of redundancy, the only thing you can get is a mop and a bucket.

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Absolutely.

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Okay.

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So putting the box together, putting boxes together is not real complicated.

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I love it because it's like a puzzle.

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You get it from the manufacturer, you get a nice blueprint.

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You've already designed it or I've designed it.

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So I kind of know where it's going to go and its shape and size.

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And you begin to look at which corner do I want to begin building so I don't make a trap.

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And then the key parts are getting your panels lined up, put into place, and they're usually

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locked together with a cam lock.

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But one of the most steps that I see missed and I get a lot of calls from owners to say,

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what can you do to fix this?

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This is happening to me is the step is what we call putting butyl to the warm side of

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the box.

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So you think of the box, it's four inches thick of foam with a cam together lock.

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So the outside panel, the outside edge of the panel is the warm side where you're standing

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in the box is the cold side.

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So you draw a line of butyl caulking from top to bottom on that panel before you squeeze

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it together and lock it.

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And that butyl will squeeze in there and fill in all the gaps where air might go.

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Now if air can get in past the gasketing, it's going to look like under a microscope,

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like a Christmas tree shape, a dart, if you will, as it freezes and it will freeze and

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start to separate that panel.

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The more it separates it, the more air that gets in and it starts to compound itself to

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where it actually will destroy a box.

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And I've seen owners all fall out and they'll put silicone over it.

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It's not going to fix it.

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The air is still going to get in there.

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And that's the step that I most often see.

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They think you can just lock it together and the gaskets will take care of it.

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There's a fine line in the instruction manual that says apply butyl to the warm side.

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If you have a floor, you have to think about it.

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The warm side is the part that's touching the concrete, not the part you're standing

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on.

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If it's the ceiling, it's the warm side is the top of the box, not the part you're looking

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at when you're in it.

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And it's tedious because you got to have one guy I have on my crew, he's got the gun in

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the tubes.

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And as the panels, we stand them in place, we step back a second, he draws a bead of

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caulking and then we lock it together and squeeze it together.

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So you now know no air can penetrate from the warm side and get in to the box.

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If you tried to do it on the cold side, four inches, that air is going to come in into

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that four inch space and be right up against the internal side of the box.

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And possibly introduce moisture into the foam area in between the panels.

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I've seen that here.

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And it does over a period of time.

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It separates, it destroys and it ruins the panels.

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So key things there, BTU sizing, make sure you know the customer, know the BTU loads,

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don't leave anything out.

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Calculate for lights, forklifts, people working inside boxes.

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There's a lot of manufacturing places that are packaging and doing things.

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All of those are heat loads.

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Heatcraft engineering manual will give you factors on all of those.

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Getting all your BTUs added up right.

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Account for your losses.

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If you're going to be in high ambient locations with that compressor, think about poor man's

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redundancy.

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It kind of makes you the savior when you're talking to your customer because you're thinking

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about their best interest when you're building the box.

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And calculate those BTUs so that you are not starving your evaporator on the hottest months.

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And sometimes you have to protect yourself on the coldest months.

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I still do that here in Las Vegas.

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I like using Headmaster mixing valve.

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So when the ambience drop below 60, that's the tough part.

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When air conditioners are shutting off, walk-in boxes still have to run.

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So we have to keep that head pressure up.

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So you're thinking about low ambient as well as I'm thinking about high ambient.

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High ambient based on my BTUs that I need.

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Low ambient ensuring that I'm pushing that refrigerant down that liquid line with enough

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pressure on a cold winter night.

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When you do that, you can guarantee that temperature 365 days a year.

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What about metering device selection on our boxes?

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Well, metering device selections are based again on BTU, based again on the evaporator.

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Just because you have a, like the air conditioners, you have a five horsepower compressor unit

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on a roof does not dictate that you have a five ton expansion valve in a coil.

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It's going to be based on the BTUs of that coil.

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I got to tell you today, things are so much, there's so many new controls.

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We use a lot of this key to thermostats that have built in defrost capabilities for medium

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temp boxes.

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Those are fantastic to prevent ice buildups.

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And quite frankly, I'm a fan.

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If I can get an electronic expansion valve in there, I'm an absolute fan.

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Because the electronic expansion valve, number one, it's going to have 256 plus steps in

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it.

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It's going to do a lot of smart thinking for me and knowing where's that superheat at,

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where am I operating the best and how do I get there the fastest?

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So that means can I open up and then adjust down so that I can get right to that right

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amount of superheat.

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And the second thing is, is when it does, the key to thermostats tells it to cycle off

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in today's code, it's going to pump down saving me from having to have a solenoid valve and

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then allow my fans to switch to a low speed saving energy, meaning the 2020 walk in box

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code.

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So electronic expansion valves, my favorite.

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You can't go wrong there.

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And when you communicate that with some smart technology, two speed fans, key to thermostats,

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programmable defrost for even medium temp type units, never getting that complaint of

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an iced up coil.

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Absolutely the way to go.

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Expansion valves either way, BTU is based on a coil, not horsepower based on a compressor.

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Awesome.

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Dennis Hucup, thank you so much for your time.

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Once again, we sure appreciate you being here with us.

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00:13:54,120 --> 00:13:55,120
Awesome.

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00:13:55,120 --> 00:14:08,760
Happy New Year, Clifton.

