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Hi everyone, welcome to Potluck Food Talks. Today we're going to talk about barbecue.

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So what's the deal with barbecue?

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Not your uncle's barbecue that he does in his backyard. The real barbecue.

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The real barbecue. What about it?

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Yeah, I think first of all we should narrow down what barbecue is, you know, because I think it's

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something that in some form or another is present in pretty much every culture around the world.

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Yeah, it's probably the oldest form of cooking. For sure it is.

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For sure. I mean, for me, when I think of barbecue, obviously I think everybody connected

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to their own culture, but for me it's just things cooked over a live heat source. And with that,

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I mean either open fire or charcoal or wood embers, something like that. It's a very particular type

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of heat, I think, and a little bit of smoke is involved. Although, you know, I think that smoke

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often comes in a very subtle form. But yeah, I think that barbecue can be really anything.

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And there's also the cultural ritual around it, gathering around with family or friends, cooking

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outside. Usually there is always a grill master who allows no one to touch his grill. I think it's

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pretty similar in different cultures.

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Are you that kind of guy? Are you like that when you're grilling or fence? No?

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No, I'm the one who steals food from the grill.

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That's true. I remember the last time when we grilled together, you kind of stayed back and

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let everybody else cook. I remember. Exactly. I'm not the grill alpha guy at all.

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You pull the strings from behind the curtain. The puppet master.

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Exactly. Someone needs to make the salad, you know, I'll do it.

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Yeah, I mean, I think, like you say, you know, it's something super primal. And I mean, like

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cooking with fire. When I say cooking with fire, you could imagine like a roaring big fire, you

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know, but it's not really the case like most of the time. But, you know, cooking with fire is

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really awesome. As in like the true sense of the word, like it's really awe inspiring. I feel like

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it's just kind of moves something deep inside of us when we see open flame. And yeah, it's

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definitely one of my favorite ways of cooking, you know, not just meat or protein, just like in

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general. Yeah, I wanted to ask you about that. Do you also include like if you're cooking with a pot

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on fire? Is that also grilling? If you're making like a sauce or a stew or something like that?

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In a Dutch oven, for instance? Yeah, see, I would say no, I wouldn't include that. I mean, there are

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circumstances where you, for example, bury pots in embers. And there's an argument to be made that

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some sort of flavor is imparted. But I wouldn't necessarily call it that because you're cooking

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in a pot like the cooking is happening in the pot. And whether that's on an induction stove or on a

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grill, I don't think makes a huge difference. But yeah, I think it's important to say that there's

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a like a direct contact with that heat source. Yeah, I guess it only gives the whole romanticity

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to the situation like cooking on fire, while you're also grilling, you know, with a pot or anything

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like that. I mean, it makes sense from a sustainability point of view, you know, if you

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have a heat source, like it's a lot of energy being expended that you're going to use that same heat

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to cook other things if you want to cook them in a pot. What's your favorite type of barbecue?

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Yeah, I mean, I have mixed feelings because I would say my favorite meat is the chuleta. I have like a

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weakness for it. But if there were no chuletas in the world, I would say... Okay, let's not paint

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the devil on the wall. But yeah, sorry, continue. I would say Brazilian, picanha, that style of grill.

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Oh, interesting. What you bring to the grill, I think that that's also completely different

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than Latin America and Europe, North America or Asia, you know, all the sauces, the dips, the salads,

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the carbs you put around your grill. I mentioned picanha, but in Venezuela, usually you will have

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yuca, you know, the Spanish root, usually boiled and then with like a vinaigrette,

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which would be like a dressing with lots of chopped vegetables, kind of like a pico de gallo,

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something like that. On top of the boiled yuca, that's something super common. Our own avocado

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sauce, which is different from guacamole, it's called huazacaca. That's a must. Hot sauce, of course.

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And those are the basic things and everybody, you know, there are all types of variations,

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but that's something you will find quite often. And also the type of meats, you will find chicken,

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different types of beef and different types of sausages and black pudding and this kind of stuff.

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And usually everything is done and then on that grill session, you know, you get a little bit of

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everything. That sounds really nice. I mean, and there we've got the communal aspect again,

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you know, sort of like often grilling is this thing where everybody gets together, you know,

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I feel like it has this like natural draw for people to gather. Everybody loves like a grill

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day. It's usually for me, I associate it with also with drinking the whole day and I don't know,

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listening, putting some music, being in the countryside, you know, like it is chilling.

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Yeah, absolutely. I, for me, like I've, you know, over many years now, I've grown to be super

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interested in American barbecue culture. You know, it's got such a mysticism around it, you know,

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and it's like, obviously there's like different styles that are widespread, you know, in the south

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of the states from, you know, whole hog barbecue to the like more sort of beef centric kind of like

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briskets focused cooking in Texas. But you know, especially things like whole hog barbecue,

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it's really fascinated me because it's such a cool way of cooking and like this indirect fire sauce,

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having like this off chamber where you have the indirect heat of the fire channeling through this

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cooker, you know, and then out at the other end. And that paired with the way that they build a

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fire where it's not like super, super smoky. It's like a clean burn. Like you don't want it to be

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any sort of like harsh smoke. I found that super interesting. And I tried it a couple of times

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because it's like such a stripped back way of cooking that I really wanted to try it out.

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And I totally fucked it up. You know, I remember like I built this like makeshift offset barbecue

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cooker and I just couldn't get it right. I don't know whether my wood wasn't right or whether

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I was just not building the fire right. I found it super interesting, you know, listening to people

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like Elliot Moss, who's got a restaurant called Buxton Hall in Asheville, I think it's called in

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the South. And he only does the whole hog. And if people like, I mean, I'm sure you know, Aaron

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Franklin. Yeah. When they talk about how to build a fire, they talk about the smoke coming out of

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the smokestack on the chimney on your barbecue. It should be sort of like, it shouldn't be white and

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it shouldn't be smoky. It should be like bluish hue so that you know that it's not too smoky.

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That really, really fascinated me because it's such an intuitive and such an involved way of cooking

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because you're also kind of like there throughout the night kind of like checking the fire, making

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small adjustments. And I think it's super fascinating, super nice way of cooking.

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I went to one of these places in Houston. I think that the name was Corkscrew, if I'm not wrong.

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And it's the same style of barbecue as Aaron Franklin, but with its own signature dishes

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and everything. And we've got this big platter. You usually get chicken, brisket, ribs, different

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sausages. And then side dishes. You usually also have like pickles. And I remember there was the

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super heavy kidney beans too. Everything was really, really nice. The only thing I didn't like was the

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bread. It was just like, you know, like beanboat bread. And I was like, man, why can't you make like

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a proper nice bread for this nice barbecue? And apparently that's super common in America,

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to have that kind of bread with your barbecue. Yeah, the Texas toast, man. Texas toast is a thing.

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Yeah, for sure. I first had Texas toast when I went to eat at Cane's, when I was, I think,

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also in Houston or in Dallas or something like that, when I was renewing my illegal work permit

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for Mexico. And yeah, Texas toast is basically just like, sometimes it's toasted, sometimes it's

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not even toasted, right? It's just like a slap of like the most basic white bread. Exactly. It's

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super basic because I mean, I've seen really good breads in that sign up, but this is just plain

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generic sandwich bread. Yeah, but it's kind of like a super stripped back, Southern American.

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It's like a lifestyle also. And I always just really, really dug that. But yeah, you know,

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kind of like what you're saying with the sides, that kind of brings me to another style of barbecue

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that I really love, which is Korean barbecue, which for me is almost like as much about the sides

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as it is about the actual barbecue itself. I mean, you have that a lot in Korean culture,

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this like Anchan thing where like loads of sort of like small side dishes come out, you know,

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from kimchi to salads to different pickles and ferments. Super, super nice also. As I said,

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for me, it's almost as important as the meat, the side dishes and sauces and salads and stuff

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that are commonly associated to a salad of barbecue. By the way, why don't you share what

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you did in the last barbecue we had together? I remember you had like a whole chicken, you did

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yakitoris with the wings and legs, right? And with the breast, you did like some sort of lemon marinade.

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That was really, really nice. Oh, yeah. I remember I did the whole chicken. I mean, I just kind of

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deboned it completely. So you have the chicken flat, you have it all attached and all the skin

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still intact. And then I mean, I usually I marinate the chicken, like I usually have this chicken

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marinate where I always use lots of garlic, lots of cracked black pepper, a little bit of salt,

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I always season the chicken even if I'm marinating it. So it kind of works like a brine a little bit.

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And then I usually always mix a dairy component and like an acid component. So either, you know,

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sour cream and a dash of vinegar, or, you know, like creme fraiche and some lemon, you know, and then

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I'll just like squeeze the lemon in, chop the lemon up and put it into the marinade. And I feel like

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this mix of salts, dairy and acid really tenderizes the chicken and makes it super, super juicy. I do

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that for fried chicken also, but also for this grilled chicken works really well. You're keeping

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the skin clean. That's very important because you don't want bits and pieces to burn on the skin.

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Because what I do is I take this chicken and marinate it and then I just flip it in half so

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that on each side you just have the skin, right? So the idea is that you kind of slowly render the

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skin out so that's really crispy on the outside and the flesh is kind of protected and just kind

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of cooks through kind of steaming itself and not really drying out. And then you flip it and you

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grill the other side and outside you only have crispy chicken skin and inside you hopefully have

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very tender chicken. It's a little bit difficult if you do a whole chicken because you have to

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breast and defy in the same piece, which are obviously going to cook at a different tempo.

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But you know, you can just kind of play around with that. Then you use the wings for making

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yakitoris, right? Yeah, I mean, that's such a basic yakitori, you know, you give the wings

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two small cuts so that they kind of flatten out a little bit and the bone is a little bit more

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exposed. And then you just skewer them flat so that once it's cooked, you have a very comfortable

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bite from either side and you don't really have to bite around the bone so much. It's like a very

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traditional kind of yakitori technique from Japan. And I just made like a tare sauce. Tare is also

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super, super traditional yakitori sauce, which is basically like soy based with sake, mirin, kombu,

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spring onions, ginger, and often like the version I make, it's got roasted chicken bones in it. So

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you kind of simmer that down until it's a flavorsome kind of sauce. And as you're grilling your chicken,

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you dip it in the sauce and put it back on the grill. And the sauce flavors the chicken and

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caramelizes it and the crispy chicken flavors the sauce. This is sort of sauce, which is kind of like

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a master stock, you know, in China, they have these master stocks where they use a stock or

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sauce that they keep adding things into and it gets more like developed and developed flavor wise.

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As you do with tare, you dip the chicken in it and it takes on the flavor of the chicken. What that

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means though, is that the sauce is going to get contaminated with chicken. So it's more fragile in

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its shelf life. So every now and again, you just have to bring it to the boil, kind of adjust the

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sauce and then chill it down rapidly again so that it's completely sterilized and safe. But like that,

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you can keep the sauce basically forever without it ever going off. And it will just become more and

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more complex as you go on. And there's yakitori shops in Japan that have had their tare sauce for

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dozens, if not hundreds of years. Have you ever done char siu sauce, which is kind of the same

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principle, right? But it's usually for pork, if I'm not wrong. Yeah, char siu. Yeah, exactly. I mean,

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this is like very famously red marinated glaze for pork, which like, I mean, char siu gets made

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in these sort of like special ovens that are kind of like the ovens that use for Peking ducks,

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you know. I have made char siu before. It's got like rock sugar and you know, like red vinegar

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and spices and stuff like that. And I would say it's more like a barbecue sauce. I mean, when I

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was living in Hong Kong, I ate a lot of char siu. A lot of it was quite sweet because it's a very

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interesting cultural difference actually is that this type of pork, they like to have it sweet,

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you know, which for us is very weird because we don't really associate pork with sweet flavors.

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But in the Chinese cooking culture and this particular Chinese cooking culture anyway,

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that's the flavor that they like, you know, and it's very nice. But yeah, yakitori, again,

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like for me, yakitori is one of the like, one of the main and like the biggest, most interesting

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types of barbecue in the world. It's such a almost religious approach to grilling. When you think of

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barbecue as like a simple way of cooking something, or like a stripped down way of cooking something,

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the way that they treat the product, which is the chicken, it's also just like such a focus and

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stripped down way of preparing chicken. It's like take the thing, divide it into its parts, and

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prepare each part in a way that suits that particular part the best. And I think that's

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kind of perfect in terms of cooking. It's like a perfect approach. Have you ever grilled as

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part of another process? For instance, I don't know grilling onions that you will add to a stock or

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this kind of things? Yeah, totally. I mean, I'm a big fan of grilling. I'm a big fan of using open

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fire as your heat source, because I feel like it just imparts so much soul and so much character

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into food. And yeah, I've done a lot of stuff, you know, like take the classic on your brûlée

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that you make for stocks, you know. Yeah. For people that don't know, you know, it's a very

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classic French technique where you just take a white or yellow onion, you cut it in half,

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and you put it on a hot surface, cut side down until it's very, very black, and that you add to

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stocks. It gives a very, it doesn't give a burnt flavor, it just gives a very deep caramelized

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flavor. And yeah, I mean, like I've done lots of stuff like that. You have to sometimes be a little

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bit careful. But for example, you know, if you take the example of tarte, you could easily grill

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your chicken bones carefully over a slow fire and then add them into your sauce. And it'll just give

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a little bit more depth, you know. I worked in an Asian restaurant where we made like a unagi sauce.

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What's the name of this Japanese grill that is like a box, you know, like for the jacquitori,

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the ones you use. It's called rôbata. Right there we would grill all the bones from the

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eel and skin rest and everything, and that would be cooked into an unagi sauce. Yeah, I mean,

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it's that sounds amazing. It's exactly what you should do. I've done that with fish bones, you

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know, just the spine of the fish. You can put them on the grill and slowly roast them and then

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make a stock out of that, which then you can use to make like a sauce. Like even if it's a classic

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French sauce, you know, like a butter wine sauce or something. Yeah. But it'll just give you this

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little, this little, this little je ne sais quoi, you know. But even like vegetables, you know,

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like, I mean, fire is such a versatile way to cook vegetables. Yeah, I love roasting

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aubergines directly on the charcoals. That's a classic one. Last time I remember I also did

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like pak chois and then I would throw them like in a kimchi marinade. Amazing. Just after grilling.

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That was also really nice. That sounds delicious, you know, that's almost like a cooked fresh kimchi,

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you know? Yeah, something like that. Yeah, that's really nice. There's a famous dish from Chef

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Daniel Berlin, who's a Michelin star chef in Sweden, which I really like. And for me, that's

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also like perfect sort of example of vegetable barbecue cooking. It was one of his signature

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dishes. I mean, was, is, I don't know, he's opening a new restaurant soon, I think. So he took a

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celeriac and he put it on the fire, slow fire for many, many hours, I think like three, four hours,

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until the outside was completely black, but the inside was fully steamed through and tender.

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And then he would take this black celeriac into the dining room, cut it open, steaming hot, yeah.

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And then just scoop pieces of it out without using the black part, of course, and then serve that

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together with the sauce that he made from the charred outer bits of the celeriac from the day

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before. So we make like a charred celeriac stock and then kind of cook that down and make like a

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creamy, foamy, smoky sauce. I've made that dish actually, and I was like myself really, really

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surprised how delicious it is because by roasting the celeriac slowly, you, like it removes a lot

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of the moisture inside of the vegetable and the flavor just gets so extremely concentrated. It's

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like so umami rich and like just very lightly smoky and concentrated. And then making the sauce out of

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those charred bits gives you just real sort of like rustic burn sort of thing. It's super,

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so simple, but so delicious. I think celeriac is one of my favorite vegetables. Yeah. And yeah,

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I can almost smell that roasted celeriac. Well, it's got an open end in the dining room. Yeah.

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Desserts? Have you ever done like pineapples or these sort of things? Yeah, I mean, for sure.

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Roasting a pineapple on the rotisserie kind of spit, that's very classic, you know, kind of like

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glazed with brown sugar or something like that. Yeah, some kind of molasses, yeah, something like

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that. And like lemon zest, lime zest, and orange zest, like a mixture of that, you know, it's like

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very classic, I think. Yeah, exactly. Or a whipped cream with lime zest. Definitely one of the best

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desserts that I've had grill related was at Echibari, of course, the classic smoked milk

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ice cream. It's just very nice with the beetroot. I think it's like always beetroot, right? It's like

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beetroot reduction or something? Yeah, I don't know what I had like cherries. I might be wrong. I

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remember the beetroot, but I don't know why I have like the cherries in mind. Yeah, I mean,

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that's very nice, you know, also like a super cool example of smoke used in a really nice,

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beautiful way. Like when people think of smoked, you know, it's always like it's really harsh,

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like smoked bacon or smoked fish or whatever. But smoke can be really gentle and subtle and

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just kind of perfuming things. I watched an interview with the Yakitori chef the other day

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where he says that his job or, you know, his focus is mainly on giving the skewers the right perfume.

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You know, and I thought that was really interesting because if you're cooking with

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open fire a lot and with charcoal, then you know that there's like very small differences

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and nuances in how you can cook it. It can be very, very smoky and very harsh, but it can be

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very, very gentle. And yeah, I thought it was very interesting.

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That's it for this week's episode of potluck food talks. If you like what we're doing,

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make sure to subscribe to the podcast so you never miss an episode. You can also find us on

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Instagram and Tik Tok as potluck food talks. The show airs every Monday.

