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Hi everyone, welcome to Potluck Food Talks. Today we have a special guest, Molly Gore.

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She used to be a food journalist, now she's kind of like a satirist and activist.

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Hi Molly, how are you?

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I'm good, I'm good. Happy to be here, thanks for having me.

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The topic we wanted to talk today is about dairy. You have like a special thing towards

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dairy. Is that the reason why you moved to the Basque Country?

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About 95% of the reason, yeah.

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Could you explain us why that is? What is it so special about Basque dairy?

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Oh my gosh, well okay, so I think for me, it's funny, I said yes to this idea of talking

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about dairy because I had, you know of course it's not the full reason I moved here, but

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I did have this moment when I was visiting, you know, a year ago before I came and I walked

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past the milk vending machine in Plaza Ayazo in Donosti. Do you know the one I'm talking

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about?

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Yeah, actually I didn't know what it was. You explained this to me and I've been living

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here for five years and you were like, you don't know what this is?

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It's the best thing in Donosti.

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I've never used them actually.

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Oh my god, you just go and you just press the button and you put your mouth under it

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and you just kind of let it, you know, just drink from it.

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You get a milk bath in the middle of the street, nice.

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It's incredible. It's this small little kind of like kiosk vending machine in Plaza Ayazo

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that's fresh milk. And so you can bring a bottle or you just pay 50 cents for, you know,

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a liter bottle. And I think it's just a euro 60 for a liter and like half of that for a

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half liter and it's fresh milk and the farmers come down, they fill it every morning and

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then they take the excess away at night. So they milk the cows at like 430 in the morning,

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bring the milk down at 7am, there's fresh milk in the vending machine and you go down

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and get your milk.

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Yeah.

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I didn't know anything about this.

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Yeah, amazing. You know, and it's just like there's like a sharpie sign on it that's

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like, you know, if anything's wrong here, just call in Yaki.

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Yeah. And I was looking it up and I was like, I was like, oh, Yaki is like the maintenance

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guy. It's the farmer. And so I think it sounds like the city sort of like half subsidized

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this, but it's mostly direct sales, right? To the farmers. And so it's their way of trying

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to like kind of keep up the small, you know, small farming standard by eliminating, you

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know, a lot of the kind of middle brokerage and just supporting farmers more directly,

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which sounds like it's working because it's been around for a while. But yeah, to me,

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that's dreamy.

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Are there like any other dairy products you're a fan of here in the Basque Country? Because

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I mean, if you ask me about it, I would say first of all, Ilyasawal cheese.

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Yeah, I know.

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Which is an amazing sheep milk cheese. And the cheesecake, of course, which I'm addicted

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to.

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Of course. So here's the thing. You're going to be so disappointed. So I'm I like cheese,

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but I'm not fanatical about cheese, I think, in the way some people are. And of course,

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you know, you talk about dairy in the Basque Country and you have to talk about cheese,

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right? It's so it's so woven into the dairy culture here. And I think what, you know,

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especially romance to me is like coming from the US, you know, and I was I was born in

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the 80s. And so I grew up in the era of like drinking, you know, our parents gave us skim

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milk, you like nonfat milk, because everyone was afraid of fat, because the sugar lobby

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basically convinced everyone that fat was the bad thing, not the sugar. So they could

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sell more Coca Cola and you know, the whole capitalist disaster. And so, you know, I grew

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up in like with all these kind of anemic, like super industrial dairy products and then

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moved to California and our side sort of equivalent, I think, in California to like what's happening

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here is the Nicosia Valley. And it's mostly, you know, farms. People came over 100 years

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ago from France, from Italy, from Europe, and basically started up a cheese making tradition

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there. And it's, you know, it's a beautiful place to do it because a the climate is temperate

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year round. So there's milk production year round and there's like an extraordinary amount

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of microclimates. And so you have this local variation in the cheeses, which is really

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interesting. But there, you know, like America is in this great and horrible moment of trying

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to reclaim its food soul after the industrial revolution destroyed it. So when we have those

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moments like in the US, there's a lot of small producers who are kind of trying to reclaim

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old traditions like that. Right. And then coming here and having this sense of especially

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in the Basque country, there's been such a sense of preservation, right? It's like the

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traditions have been held on to so tightly and have been preserved so strongly, even

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in the face of so much attempted, you know, assimilation and like all of these different

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forces coming in and trying to overtake Basque country and the language and the, you know,

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everything. Actually, the cheesecake is like an invading species. Can you say that? An

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invasive species? Yeah, it's not something from here. And it's like a new tradition.

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It's about 20 years old. So like the really conservative people say like, that's not really

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Basque. Where did that come from? Is that a, was it an American thing? No, no, no, no,

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because it's completely different than American cheesecake. It is. Yeah. I don't know where

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the origins are. I know that Sugueroa made a first cheesecake in the late eighties or

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nineties. Yeah. And La Viña in the mid nineties. So it's something relatively new. Ah, yeah.

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Another dessert that I thought of that is probably more your style is the Mamilla. Have

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you tried that? I have tried Mamilla. Yeah. Because it's just curd milk, right? With honey.

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That's it. Yeah, that's it. Right. And then there's like, they'll do walnuts or a little

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bit of honey on top. Yeah. But those are the toppings. The dessert as such is just the

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curd. And this says a lot about like Basque food culture. They're really trying towards

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flavors that could appear plain to foreigners, but they're actually, they have their own

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complexity. Right. And many times it's a lot about the texture and not just the aroma.

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And in this case, you just want to explore the milk aromas. Like also in the Basque

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country, it's the only place I've seen like in fine dining restaurants where they serve

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milk ice cream, just milk ice cream. I haven't had that yet. Yeah. You can find it in Bodegon

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Alejandro, for instance. They have a really good one. Yeah. It's interesting. The thing

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that struck me about the Mamilla was the texture. I tasted it. I was like, Oh, it's just curd.

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Like nothing going on here except the milk. But yeah, there is a real sort of like delightful

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simplicity and freshness to it, which does feel very, very Basque. And I like finishing

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a meal with a Mamilla because it's super light. You know, it's like you're just having a curd

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and then to clean your mouth. Yeah. I like cheesecake more. Do you have any interesting

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like anecdote that you have experienced around the world of dairy, curds and milk and cheese?

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Yeah, I think I have one. I think it was probably my second week here. I, you know, and I moved

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here with very basic Spanish and zero Basque and constantly working on it. But I went to

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the grocery. It's like tiny little very Basque grocer near me. And I was just going to pick

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up a bottle of milk. And so I go to the dairy section, you know, looking around and there's,

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you know, something that looks like milk in a milk bottle in the bottom shelf. And it

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has a picture of a sheep on it. I was like, Oh, okay. You know, sheep's milk. I like sheep's

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milk. I'll get the sheep's milk. So I got the sheep's milk and I take it home. And the

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first thing I do is I make tea with it. Right. And that's, that's like mostly for most of

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my milk. I was like on my oatmeal or in my tea and I drank my tea that day and it tasted

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really burnt. And this was confusing, but it was also really concerning because this

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was like in the thick of a wave of COVID. And I was like, Oh, whatever this talk about

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how it messes up your taste. And I was like, Oh my God, I hope that my tea tastes burnt.

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And so the next day, the same thing happened. And by that point, I, you know, it occurred

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to me, I should probably look at the milk. And so I looked at it and it was all in Basque

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and I translated the Basque and it was milk for cojada, but it was extra burnt flavor.

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You know, cause I guess there's, you know. Yeah. They, they do this like with a red gluing

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hot iron. They put it inside the milk and it generates this burn like in the, in the

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best case caramelized flavors, like kind of like an atofi direction. Yeah. In this case,

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it tasted maybe like a little bit even more synthetic. I don't know how they did it, but

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it was just very burnt tasting milk. Burn aroma, basically in drops. That was my hazing

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moment as a foreigner in the store. And it's good news that I didn't have COVID, but I

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learned about what cojada was at that moment. When done properly, burning milk is something

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really delicious and it's something really traditional also here in Spain. Yeah. Yeah.

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And I didn't try to make cojada actually, which I don't, I haven't tried it yet, but

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I was like, cool. Me neither. To be honest, I I've known that in I think in a Calaver

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or in some Michelin star place, it was probably a Calaver many years ago. They would curd

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it in front of you. They would bring the liquid milk into the curd and then perhaps you eat

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two more courses. And at the end of the dinner, it was yeah, cojada, gelatinized. Oh, we should

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go eat some of that. Well, that's a super expensive place. I haven't been there actually

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to Aguilar. It's one of the big classics of the city. Yeah. I haven't been either. What

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about non-food application? Have you discovered any other things done with milk besides taking

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a milk bath in the streets of San Sebastian? Rubbing cheese on my face. Yeah. It's probably

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some good oils in there actually. But no, I mean, yeah, you know, I do like yogurt masks

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on my face sometimes. Things like that. But I know there's some interesting stuff you

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can do with whey though. A lot of people doing like vodka and this kind of things using whey

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instead of water. Really? And it generates a completely different flavor profile. Yeah.

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It's pretty cool. Oh, that's super interesting. Yeah. And I even saw once this wasn't like

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in a kitchen lab, they would put like just a tiny bouquet of sheep's hair inside the

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bottle. So you know that sometimes you have like a flower or a herb. Yeah, it was sheep

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hair. What's the purpose with that? I guess showing where it comes from, probably communicating.

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So this is whey based booze. I do that with my own hair in my cooking sometimes actually.

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Some people never made it, you know. To put your identity in your stews. What about in

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your daily work as a satirist and activist? Have you found like any inspiration like in

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the Basque dairy system? Inspiration. Well, okay, here's an interesting connection. You

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know, oh gosh, I'm going to forget their name. But when Napoleon's armies were coming through,

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there was the way that the sheep herders hid themselves by like hiding under the pelts.

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And then I think that's how they could like organize and coordinate ambushes and stuff

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like that. But to me, it's really interesting because our work a lot of the time is about

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shape shifting and satire and pretending to be the enemy. And like we, in short, we a

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lot of the times will like prank giant oil companies or governments to hold them accountable

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for doing bad things, which is like an old kind of even mythological sort of way of interacting

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with power. And so I, whenever I see this out in the world, like the ways that the underdogs

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have shape shifted or disguise themselves or sort of like played with the rules of the

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game in order to shift the power dynamics, I find it super, super interesting. And so

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when I saw that, that story about the sheep herders, I was like, Oh, here's another, what's

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happening again?

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I saw a super nice video from Basque shepherds, like explaining their, their day to day life.

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And they have like this ancient walls that are probably thousands of years old and they

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still use them today. And they were the shepherds talking about like, yeah, this is our heritage.

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We don't even know who built this walls and how old are they? And we've been using them

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for centuries, you know? Yeah, it's crazy.

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What has been your experience with the food system, sustainability practices in the Basque

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country in general, like in comparison with food systems in America and the United States?

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What's been interesting to me is that there's not as much like obvious transparency, like

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in the U S we're sort of because, because we went through this horrid kind of industrial

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period and then had this reckoning starting, I don't know, like 15, 20 years ago when everyone

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realized how all of the goodness had been bred out of our food and you know, how much

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it's so, so preserved and toxically overloaded and you know, all the life has been like bread

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and boiled out of it, you know? And, and so now there's sort of this movement to assure

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the public of the provenance of where their food is coming from. So there's like huge strides

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towards letting people know what, you know, towards transparency, at least, you know, for the folks who are really interested in that.

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And here I don't think because there hasn't been the same legacy, there hasn't been a

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need right to do all of this kind of storytelling around where the food comes from. Because

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there's this, just this assumption that like it's from right here. It's good. It's fresh.

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And there's none of the same kinds of horrible industrial practices that I'm familiar with

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in the U.S., although I know there has been conglomeration and there is like, you know,

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large scale kind of stuff going on. So that's been one of the interesting things is me going

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to the farmers market and asking some questions and feel very surprised at the questions because

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I think other folks just have a general sense of like where the food's coming from and how

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it's grown. And for me, I'm in the habit of wanting to know and finding out when they're,

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when it's not obvious to me because of where I come from. And so that's, that's just been

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very interesting.

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Yeah. Like I would add to that, for instance, tomato salad. That's something that you see

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in most restaurants here, but in Bar Nestor, there is like a newspaper article wall with

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an interview to Nestor himself. And he says like eating raw tomato, that's something that

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comes from the Spaniards. They serve like one of the best tomato salads in town. But

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he admits that this is not something that you would find here, let's say a hundred years

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ago, that it's something that somehow it evolved at some point in the 20th century. And now

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it's part of the culture, just as cheesecake and as many other elements, so to say, modern

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elements. But when you say that tomato salad and cheesecake are the modern elements, you

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can tell that it's a really, when it comes to food, a really conservative culture, I

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would say.

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What I think about when I think about like the difference between the sort of like sustainability

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aspect here and in the States is just that I think, okay, so for example, I was in, well,

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this was actually Galicia and I was in like a little Galician seafood pub. They just did

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smoked fish. That was it. Like little kind of tostadas, they have smoked fish. And I

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was there with a couple of people and one of them was another American from Oregon,

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like along the West coast. You know, I think we've, we've all developed like a really deep

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sensitivity to wanting to know where things are from, right? Because that's, that's the

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place in the U S that really started reclaiming good local food first, I think. And it spread

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from like Northern California because for many years we didn't know where anything came

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from because again, industrialization. So anyway, he, you know, we're in this little

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pub and he asked us the waiter, he was like, Oh, you know, I think I want, you know, how

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the sardines are not sardines. It was like a monkfish or something. He's like, but where,

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where is it from? You know, is it from here? Which is classic habit question from where

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we're from. And the waiter kind of looks at him. He's like, I'll go ask. And he goes back,

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ask the chef. And then we hear some like bickering, like we hear them kind of arguing in the kitchen

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and the waiter comes back and he's like, it's like the chef wants me to tell you that he's

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not going to tell you where it's from, but it's good. He's like offended because the

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assumption it's like, well, of course, you know, we talked to him more and it was like,

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no, no, no, it's from right off the coast, 15 miles that way, but he's not going to tell

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you where it's from because he has his spot. He has his fishermen. He's been sourcing this

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fish. Okay. Okay. That's the reason. Okay. Good. Yeah. The reason was like, of course,

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it's from right here, but I'm not going to tell you where. And so it was just this really

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kind of funny moment of these two cultural expectations clashing up against each other

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because we're used to such very different standards of, you know, food production. And

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so, yeah, that was funny. Well, this reminds me of cider houses. I've asked and I know

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for fact that most of the boned ribeye states, the chuletones. Yeah. They're mostly, they

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come from East Europe, from Poland. Oh really? Yeah. And the reason is the production here

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is not on, it can supply the demand of so many chuletones that are eaten. And same,

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when you see the cider barrels, there are some that have like a red apple sticker. And

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that means that that is made out of Basque apples because there are also many apples

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imported to produce enough cider. Like the Orchards are not as productive enough as they

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were, let's say 500 years ago in the golden age of cider. And is that because just the

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way land is being used has changed around here or is that because the population has

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grown? It was probably an economical shift after the golden age of nautical enterprises.

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Yeah, because they would drink cider. Right. And the ships to avoid getting scurry. Right.

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Yeah. Like this archetype of the drunken sailor is because they were drinking whatever they

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were drinking all the time, but it wasn't water. That's it for this week's episode of

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potluck food talks. If you like what we're doing, make sure to subscribe to the podcast

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so you never miss an episode. You can also find us on Instagram and Tik Tok as potluck

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food talks. The show airs every Monday.

