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Hi everyone, welcome to potluck food talks. Today we're going to talk about German cuisine.

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Of our motherland, but my motherland, a little bit your motherland also.

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Yeah, my fatherland.

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I think it's a very underappreciated cuisine, I mean, not just around the world, but also inside

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of Germany. I feel like a lot of people have kind of lost what German food really is, you know? I

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mean, like everybody knows the like really basic stuff like sausages and whatnot, but they forget

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that it's actually a very, you know, just as much as a complex food culture as, you know, other food

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cultures around the world. Yeah, it doesn't have the reputation at all that you will find in

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countries like France, Italy, or Spain, not by far, you know? Or even, I would say even the other

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German countries like Austria and Switzerland have a much better reputation when it comes to food.

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No, definitely. Yeah, I mean, definitely, I would have to say that, you know, I mean,

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like obviously Germany is very regional, also the north is very different to the south, but in general,

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South Germany is a bit better known for good cooking, you know?

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Yeah, like also the great chefs from Germany are from that region, I would say, like at least

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Witzigmann and Bohlfart, you know, who are like the godfathers of German cuisine.

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Yes, definitely. Yeah. So I mean, like, what's German food like for you? If you think of German

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food, what do you think of? You know, my father is German, and I was raised with very German things

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at home. Like, for instance, we were living in Venezuela, but we wouldn't eat arepas or

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Venezuelan food for breakfast. We would have like mother dough bread, like a sauer type bread with

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liverwurst, which is basically the German liver pate. We would use to snack maybe with some

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radishes or mustard or jerrycans, you know, this kind of like home kind of best. And that's pretty

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German for me. One of my super deep childhood memories is a Kartoffelpuffer, which is basically

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grated potatoes that you turn into sort of like a pancake with apple puree. And for me, that's also

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super German. It's super German. Yeah, I mean, like a Kartoffelpuffer is a great example, because

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I don't think there's a lot of countries where you eat potatoes sweet. And like for me, you know,

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like a sweet potato cake with cinnamon and apple compote. I don't think there's anywhere else. And

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I've seen that sort of thing. It's really, really authentically German, I would say. And like also

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what you say, you know, German bread is a, you know, as part of the UNESCO World Heritage. Yeah,

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I know it's the most diverse country when it comes to bread, sausages and beer. Yeah, yeah. And like

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those sorts of things that they really held in high regards, like these crafts, if you go into a

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bakery, you know, everybody knows what good bread should be like, you know, they have like very,

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very specific standards, or any way they should, and they used to, we had a bit of a dip, and

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now bakeries are getting much better again. But especially in whole wheat, like there's so much

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more bread that is whole wheat with whole seeds and ancient grains like dinkle, which is spelt

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and those sorts of things. Yeah, also Pompaneke, which is like, it's some category of bread. Yeah,

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yeah, definitely. And I mean, like also, like you were saying, butchery, you know, like if you go

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into a good butcher shop in Germany, everything's made in-house and you just have like a huge variety

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of sausages, both like dried and fresh and like different hams, huge selection of meat, but also

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things like just butchery made things, like there's a thing in Germany called sausage salad,

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Wurstsalat. Ah, yeah, yeah, yeah. Yeah, or Fleischsalat, you know, which is like sausages cut up into

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strips and like mixed into a sort of like creamy salad. And when it's done, like nicely, it's really

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nice, but it's like really strange, but really nice at the same time. Yeah, I have super nice

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memories of going to breweries in the south, in Stuttgart. Today, you have like all this hype

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around microbreweries, but this is like the same thing, just like it has always been there. It's

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something like it's probably a couple of hundred years old and they all have the same menu. The

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beer is like industrial beer. There's nothing exciting about it, like in the way you will find

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like in microbreweries. But then you have all this variation of potato salads with different

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forms of doing it. Like some are more creamy and with mayo, others are not at all. They're just with

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roasted butter and some vegetables. Yeah, I love this like brewery food culture. I really, really

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love it, you know, especially in like the south, you know, like the Weria and Hessen and Franken,

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you know, areas that are close to the Alps and like close to France. I think it's amazing, like

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especially in summer, like people sitting outside in the garden underneath the trees in the fresh

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air drinking beer from a local brewery and just eating like really good, simple, hearty food.

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Now potato salad is a really good subject because there's like really like what I would consider

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like normal potato salads in Germany, like mayonnaise based. But there's like a couple

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of ways of making potato salads that are really cool. I mean, you know the recipe of using beef

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stock for making the dressing of potato salad? Yeah, I think I saw that in a Schubert cookbook.

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Yeah, that's really cool. It's super cool. Like you pour warm beef broth,

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cut with vinegar onto recently boiled and peeled potatoes and you let it kind of macerate and the

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beef stock will thicken slightly and glaze the potatoes and form like a clear dressing,

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making it like really savory, really meaty. I actually did that or something really similar

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just two days ago for New Year's Eve, but it was not a potato salad, but it was like that kind of

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technique just because it was like, well, it was what I had at hand at the moment. Yeah. I would

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say my favorite super ultra German dish would be Weißbrust with sweet mustard. Yeah. Like this

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white sausage that you usually get in its own China that is this dish where it comes with its

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boiling water and then you usually peel it with your fork and spoon or whatever and you eat it

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with a sweet mustard. And this sausage for me, it has such a fine flavor and it has like this lemony

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quality to it. I love it. That's one of my favorite things. Yeah. That's really cool. Actually,

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I never thought of it having like a lemony aspect, but that's really interesting. It's like, yeah,

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I think like the mustard and stuff, like the flavor profile in general is really unique.

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I mean, mustard in general, like in Germany, it's like you go to a, like for example, in the UK,

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you go to the supermarket and you find English mustard. It's one type of mustard, right? English

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mustard. And then you get French mustard like Dijon. That's it. Here in Germany, you go to

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like a normal supermarket and you find like five, six different types of German mustard,

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different spice levels. You know, some are really mild, some are really extremely spicy,

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almost like wasabi. Yeah. And then some are, you know, whole grain fermented whole or like,

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and some are sweet, you know, and it's super, super nice. Actually, I prefer like the Dijon

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style, but spicy German mustard. I think it's much better than the Dijon mustard itself, or at least

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it's a, you're so used to see the Dijon mustard all over that this is something different and it's a

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perfect replacement and you will get like a different note to it. Totally. But I was saying

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the lemon equality to the sausage, not to the mustard. Yeah. Yeah. To the Weisswurst. Yeah.

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Yeah. Then you have all this universe of the English translation is dumpling, but it's like

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its own thing. It's like this dough balls of different things. Yeah. It's really interesting.

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It's really highly regional also, you know, these dumplings, either you call them Knudel or you call

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them Klöße, but they're usually always round. And it's like a general term for several, like very

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different, for example, Kartoffelklöße, which are potato dumplings. And even in that region,

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there's like completely different ones. And again, there's techniques that are very, very interesting,

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like from a chef's point of view, for example, the half and half dumpling, you know, where you make

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the dumpling dough out of half a part of boiled potatoes and half a part of raw potatoes. Ah,

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yeah. Yeah. I've seen that. Yeah. And it's actually fairly difficult to pull off properly. But if you

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do it right, you have some boiled potatoes that you pass through kind of like you would with gnocchi.

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And then you take raw potatoes and finely grate them. And then you press the water out and mix

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the raw potatoes into the cooked potatoes. But then the water you let settle and you let the

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starch settle at the bottom. And then you pour the water away and you use the starch of the potatoes

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to bind the dough of the dumplings. So then what you get is, you know, because otherwise, if you

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would just make a potato dough, you'd get something like gnocchi. But because you use the starch,

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you get a much more sort of bouncy elastic texture. And I like for me, that's super interesting and

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super delicious. Yeah. All this culture of game, which is also super cool, like cooking with deer,

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more like in the south. I always imagine these dishes that go with some kind of noodle or

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krosse, some boiled red cabbage, and it's all sauce. That's like a super straightforward German dish

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for me. Yeah, definitely. But like, for example, the red cabbage, like for me, is also really

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iconically German. It's like braised red cabbage. But like the way that you make it is also very

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interesting because it's kind of like sweet and sour, you know? Yeah. I see that I doing all kind

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of things to that cabbage, like putting cloves, cinnamon, molasses, sugars, whatever. Yeah,

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it's, it's a... Yeah, definitely. I don't properly. It's super nice. I sometimes I like to take an

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apple and like grate it into the mix when I'm cooking it. Yeah. And for example, my dad,

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he is very proud of his vodka recipe, and he marinades it for two days before he cooks it.

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So he shreds the cabbage raw, and then he marinades it with red wine and bay leaf and like, like you

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say, cloves and stuff like that. Then he marinades it for two days, and then only starts cooking it

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down slowly. It's super delicious. Yeah, the profile direction is like kind of like a glue wine,

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like red wine and spices. You want to bring it to that direction somehow? Yeah, definitely. But you

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know, like a lot of German cooking, I kind of like for people who really like have no idea what

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German like countryside food is like, for me, it's like very similar to some of like northern

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French cooking, like just really local ingredient-driven rustic country cooking. Like one of my favorite

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dishes that's also from the area, very traditional in the area where my family's from is Tafel

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Spitz. Is it Austrian or German? I mean, for me, it's German because like for me, the Frankfurt area,

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like in Hessen, that's like the traditional dish there, the most traditional. It's like a boiled

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piece of beef, right? Like in a very strong consomme, and it's cooked inside of it with

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some vegetables, right? Something like that. Exactly. Exactly. Yeah. So a lot of the times,

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it's kind of like a pot au feu a little bit, you know. You take a beef brisket and you like,

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you don't roast it, you don't sear it, and you pack it into a pot with whole vegetables, you know,

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carrots, celery, leek or whatever. And then you just poach it really, really gently until the meat is

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super tender. And then you take the meat out, you slice it thinly. And then often you serve it with

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the broth and some of the cooked vegetables that we're poaching in the beef broth. And it's really

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delicate and really delicious. You often also eat it with a side of a horseradish sauce, raw

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horseradish grated mixed with a little bit of like sour cream. And, you know, it's super nice, you

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know, and it's not something that people usually think of when they think of German cooking.

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In general, I think these like consomme dishes, they're actually really, really German and

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Austrian, like Fledle. You know, Fledle are like noodles that are made from savory pancakes,

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basically. You make these like savory pancakes, roll them up finely.

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Ah, yeah.

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And cut them really thinly.

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Yeah, yeah.

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And you get them served in a similar dish, in like these soup dishes that you get the

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white sausage in also with the lions on the side.

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Yeah, that's super German.

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Yeah, these like old royal dishes. And yeah, I mean, these like really intense

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broths, like for me are also really, really German. Yeah, this completely transports me to

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like some Prussian palace in Brandenburg.

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Totally.

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You also have all this universe of German pastas. You just mentioned this like strips of like crepes

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kind of, but you also have Spätzle. I would say it's the most iconic German pasta. And how would

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you describe it? It's like a dirty pasta, you know, shape-wise.

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Well, depends how you make it, I would say. I mean, you can find the beauty in their imperfection,

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I think.

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Absolutely. But these are like drops of pasta dough that are randomly fall into the water with

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these organic shapes, right? Like how would you describe it?

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Well, yeah, kind of, you know, yeah, you kind of actually like so I, for me, there's like two

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different types of making them, you know, there's like the type that you describe, and then there's

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a type where you kind of cut them. But like, it's interesting, because the Spätzle dough is very liquid.

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So it's a very simple dough, actually, but it is very liquid. Like, it's not really a dough,

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it's like a paste, right? So you wouldn't be able to roll it, you wouldn't be able to shape it,

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nothing like that. And it's famously made by beating the dough with your flat hand. So you

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kind of hit the dough and pull it. And while pulling your hand back, you pull the dough also,

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because it sticks to your hand. And you do that. And like that, you stretch the gluten. And also,

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you introduce air into the dough. You remember once, and then this restaurant where we worked,

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where the chef came to make us a demo on how to do exactly that. Yeah. And he was like, yeah,

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you put your hand in there and you have to do it like this. Too sour, too sour, too sour.

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How would you describe too sour? Basically, he was calling the dough a dirty pig while he was spanking

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it. That guy was a beast. I mean, he could really cook. You have to give him that. Yeah, for sure.

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But traditionally, you're meant to beat the dough until it bubbles by itself. And that takes quite

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a lot of effort. But that's really only to build the gluten. And then so there's the way to do it.

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Like you described it, where you, for example, you put it in like a potato press, like a potato

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ricer. And then you press it through the holes into a boiling pot of water, well, like simmering pot

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of water. And that's kind of like the easy way to do it. But most normal way is that you take a pot

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of water, you fill it up to the very brim, to the very top, and you get it to like a simmering quality.

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And then you take a wooden board, and you put this like wet dough on the wooden board, and you spread

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it flat onto this wooden board. And then you dip the very end of the board into the water with a

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spatula or knife that you wet in the hot water, you go to the edge of the dough, and you very,

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very thinly start shaving the dough into the water, kind of cutting the dough. And because of the hot

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water, you always like keeping a spatula or your knife wet, and you kind of like pushing the dough

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back. So you have like a very, very thin layer on the front. And as you knead, you move more dough

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into the front. It's kind of like kind of similar to a Chinese method where they shave the noodles

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into the water, you know. And if you can do it well, you get these very thin, slightly irregular

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strips of noodles. And yeah, those are basically Spätzle. And what is your favorite thing to eat

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Spätzle with? Honestly, goulash is a very good thing to have with Spätzle. Yeah, I would say

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definitely. On one side, I would say Käse Spätzle, which literally just means cheese Spätzle,

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which is an alpine specialty of these Spätzle noodles with caramelized onions and gratinated

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with mountain cheese. Mountain cheese literally is called mountain cheese. It's a specific type

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of alpine cheese that's made in caves in the Alps. And it's very salty, savory-ish. That's

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really nice. But yeah, I mean, Spätzle together with the goulash, like a meat-based stew,

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is perfect for me, like so tasty. And also goulash, this is another thing that, well,

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the father-in-law of my father was Hungarian. So goulash was also among the key recipes for my

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dad. But for me, goulash is something German as well. I mean, Hungary and Austria were the same

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country at some moment, German speaking. So, and this is also something you will find in any German

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restaurant, quite commonly all over Germany. And it's also such a simple thing to cook,

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for me, goulash is basically lots of onions and beef and just letting it cook with some

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very high quality paprika, not much more. Yeah, exactly. The one that you're describing is

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this actually a very interesting one, which we call Segedine goulash with, like you say,

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like a really high quality paprika and often the addition of sauerkraut, which we actually haven't

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talked about, you know, the fermented cabbage, the Schuckrute. Yeah, which is probably one of the

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most iconic German recipes, sauerkraut, of course. Yeah, definitely. Yeah. It's eaten with so many

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things now. And yeah, I mean, that's super, super delicious. And it's like earlier, you mentioned

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the game culture, you know, here in Germany, we have Germany is, or used to be, but still is largely

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covered by forests. And we have a lot of game in this country, mainly deer, so venison and wild

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boar. And apart from beef, those are also things that people cook like goulash quite a lot. And

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yeah, it's super nice for me also. It's like, yeah, sure. I think like originally it's Hungarian,

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but for me it's quintessential goulash. It's such a comfort food, you know? Yeah. Another super cool

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German dish for me, it's Kaisersmand. Yes. Which it's kind of like, I would describe it kind of like

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a pancake soufflé. That's exactly how I would describe it. Yeah. It's like a pancake soufflé,

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and you break it. You cook it in the pan, you put like the whole pan to the oven, and then you break

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it with like a fork and spoon, right? So like this irregular pancake pieces in your pan, and then you

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put whatever on top, like some fruits or some ice cream or whatever you want to eat it with.

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Well, well, well, let's not get ahead of ourselves. You can't put anything on top.

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Yeah. So I mean, this is like, this is actually one of the dishes where you can definitely say

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that's definitely Austrian, you know? It's very, very Austrian. Kaisersmand, Kaisers,

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Kaisers is like the emperor. Yes. And Schmand is? Schmand is several things. So Schmand on one side

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is like a sour cream, but that has nothing to do with it. Schmand is something that is a term that

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often gets used in the Austrian slang for nonsense. And so the story is that the royal chef was

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supposed to come out with a new dessert for the emperor, and he was going to make this like pancake

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soufflé, but he fucked it up while flipping it or something. And so he decided to improvise,

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and he decided to rip the whole thing up into small pieces and then put it back into the oven

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with a little bit of butter and stuff so the pieces would crisp up a bit and then serve it.

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And when he served it to the emperor, supposedly the emperor looked at it and said,

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wasn't das für ein Schmarrn? Yeah, which means what kind of nonsense is this? This ripped up pancake.

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But he ended up really liking it. So and now it's a classic of Austrian cuisine. Yeah.

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Yeah, it's a super nice dessert. Yeah, and it's so original, you know, because it's like a broken

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soufflé. Yeah. And it sounds very simple. It's kind of like, oh, you make a pancake, you rip it up,

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but it's actually not that easy because if you had a really properly made Kaiserschmand, you realize

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that there's quite a lot to it and then you try to make it at home. And it's definitely kind of like

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a tortilla. You have to get the right technique and you have to get the right consistency. It's

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very simple, but you have to kind of nail it. Yeah. For me, my two favorite German products are

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strawberries and white asparagus. Strawberries, there is this thing with strawberries because

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they're original from America, but the original American strawberries have nothing to do with

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German strawberries. They got like with whatever, with breeding techniques and this kind of thing,

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they got this variety that man, when it's in season, it's something so nice and so special.

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I haven't had anything similar or nowhere else. Yeah, absolutely. I can totally agree with you.

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Actually, I haven't really thought about that, but now that I'm thinking about it,

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you're totally right. They are really exceptionally delicious. The only place that I had similar

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strawberries was in Denmark and were similar climates. But I mean, yeah, in Denmark, you know,

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it's a seasonal delicacy also. But yeah, white asparagus, also very interesting. There's not

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really anywhere else, but like Germany and France, that white asparagus is actually a thing.

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Everywhere around the world that I go, everybody's crazy about green asparagus.

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No, here, here, across country as well. But here they're usually eaten preserved, like canned.

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Exactly. It's like, why? They're like a delicacy and everything. But I mean,

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the German asparagus for me are the best. The bayleets, the asparagus, they're fucking amazing.

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Yeah. And it's such a beautiful thing because it's such a hyper seasonal ingredient and it gets

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celebrated in such a nice way. I really wish that like a lot of other things were celebrated in the

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same fashion because come like late spring and asparagus is in season. That's all people eat.

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That's all restaurants offer. I mean, not all, but everybody has it all and everybody's excited for

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it. And you eat it in such a simple way. Yeah. You know, boiled with a few more things and that's it,

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you know, they, they, they, they doesn't need much. It gets poached a little bit. You eat it

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with some new potatoes, maybe some clarified butter, maybe some poached ham on the side and

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hollandaise. Hollandaise, very common. Yeah. Something like that out of the skin of the

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asparagus, the skin is very, very fragrant. So often with the skin, you make a broth,

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an asparagus broth, and then with the offcuts of the asparagus, you make an asparagus cream soup.

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And it's just super tasty. And, and I love this like simple ingredient driven cooking, you know.

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You mentioned Eckart Witzigman. Yeah. For me, he is one of the most relevant chefs,

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not only in Germany, but in Europe. I think that this is someone who was really ahead of its time.

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If you take old cookbooks and you look at what he was doing at Aubergine, his restaurant in the

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early nineties, I mean, those dishes could be served today in a restaurant. They would look

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kind of like vintage, but still something you could serve. They were really ahead of its time.

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I remember also working, this is a guy who has written an amazing large amount of cookbooks and

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culinary books. And I remember these are always good go-to books because the recipes always worked

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pretty well. I also did this Kaiserschmann recipe from one of his pastry books, but also many other

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recipes. And they would have like this, you know, this twist, this sophistication of things,

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like techniques that you haven't seen nowhere else, but were like pretty French, pretty classic,

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but uncommon and then just small variations. Yeah. Yeah, totally. I totally agree with you.

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Yeah. He, he really drove it forward. And I think like what made him so special for me is that is

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exactly what you just said, is that when you look at his recipes and when you look at his dishes,

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they're built on a super solid foundation of cooking, of like traditional, you know,

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provincial cooking, and then adding a little bit of refinement and adding like a little bit of a

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twist. And I think that's what made him really, really good. And also he really celebrated like

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his heritage and where he was from. And, and yeah, he, he made it really enjoyable.

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Yeah. Or also taking, you know, recipes that in its traditional versions, you will find like super

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overcooked or astute like deer or venison of these kinds of things. And he would serve it

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just cooked to perfection, you know, red on the core, these kinds of things, early nineties,

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without sous vide techniques or anything, or just making like a venison tartare, you know,

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like just like that, taking like super German flavors and ingredients and just twisting,

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making something new and more refined out of it. Yeah. I love that guy.

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What other German chefs are there? Schuhweg, he's like this famous TV chef with traditional

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German recipes. I'm not such a big fan of him. I just wanted to mention him because, you know,

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he's going to jail for tax evasion. Yeah, I saw that. I mean, he had it coming now.

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Oh, he did. Come on. Everybody knew. I mean, I think I like Hans Haas, who's actually also

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Austrian. He was the head chef in Tantris together with Eckhard Witzigmann for a huge

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amount of years. Like, I don't want to lie, but I think it was at least 20 years that he was head

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chef there when he's an icon. Yeah. Yeah. I really, I really like him as well. Yeah. Well,

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like Witzigmann was head chef there before him. And then he was chef afterwards, like for 20

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years, something like that. Right. Exactly. Yeah. Then I really like Harald Wohlfahrt, who used to

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be the head chef at Traubetonbach for a long time. It was one of the biggest three-million-star chef

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restaurants in the country that also cooked very, very classic. Yeah. And probably the chef with

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the longest time holding three stars from all that we've mentioned, the guy probably had like

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for a long, like 20 years, something like that. Yeah. 20, 30 years. Yeah. For me, those are the

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biggest names. Like if we were talking about like Kassigall, yeah, Dieter Müller could also be on

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that list, but for me, Witzigmann is the greatest. Yeah, definitely. I mean, especially talking about,

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you know, there's other like great chefs that do like very modern sort of things with their own

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identities, but yeah, Witzigmann is definitely with by far the OG. Yeah. He's really someone,

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because everybody built on his work. Like he traveled to France in the seventies and came back

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at Tantris. And while he was head chef there, he started doing this renewal of German cuisine

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that holds up until today, I would say. Absolutely. Absolutely. It's a shame that

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there's only really chefs in the like very high Michelin star end that like we can talk about,

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because one thing that's missing in Germany is more people being comfortable in the like mid-range

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of just cooking, you know, very solid food. That's not avant-garde, that's not Michelin star,

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that's just really, really good cooked food, you know, with a very local identity. I think

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that's really missing. And I think there's been a resurgence of that, especially, you know, in

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south of Germany and in places like Berlin, there's a lot of chefs that are now much more

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comfortable cooking local food and putting the label of it saying like, yeah, this is German

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food. What's your favorite ultra traditional German restaurant in Berlin? Well, mine is one called

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Ständige Vertretung near Friedrichstrasse. If it's still open, you know, like with all this COVID

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thing, you never know which one's closed or in which one survived. But yeah, this is a typical

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place where you will go to have your ice bind with Sauerkraut and the whole super German

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menu. Yeah, it's a really good one. Oh, that sounds pretty good. I have to check it out. I haven't

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been there yet. And I actually, I have a craving like once a month of going to like a super German

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place, drinking a big pint of beer and just having the like Wurzhaus experience. One restaurant that

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I really like, it is also a Michelin star restaurant, but the chef, he does really draw on his

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southern and Austrian roots and that's restaurant Horvath. I wonder, I wonder just before leaving

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Berlin, that was like my farewell dinner from Berlin. How was it? Super nice. He was, yeah,

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he's doing like this new Alpine cooking that, yeah, that I wouldn't relate it to super traditional

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dishes, but the super traditional flavors and ingredients from the region. Yeah, I'm a big fan

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of that, I think. And he's, you know, he's really a chef's chef, I think, because he really, it's

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really solid cooking, you know, there's no smoke and mirrors, it's no pretentiousness, everything's

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super refined. I mean, he's got two Michelin stars now, you know, he is playing with the big boys.

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Yeah, he had them back then as well, just fresh. Yeah, and but you know, it's just like solid

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cooking and delicious food and I think that's really great. Cool. I think that's another episode.

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That's it for this week's episode of Potluck Food Talks. If you like what we're doing,

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make sure to subscribe to the podcast so you never miss an episode. You can also find us on

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