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Hi everyone, welcome to potluck food talks. Today we're going to talk about paella Nazis.

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So Phil, you're not a paella Nazi, right? You hate people messing around with traditional

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recipes. Well, what can you tell us about it?

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You know, I don't know why you're accusing me like that. I feel like I'm a pretty free

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spirit when it comes to paella. But we both, I think, know you definitely more than I,

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but we know a lot of people in Spain that take it very, very seriously. Sometimes a

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little bit too seriously.

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Yeah, no, I agree. And I think that there's a reason for it since I'm Venezuelan, but

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I have Spanish heritage and German heritage. So I kind of see sometimes like the things

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that are lost in translation. And when it comes to paella, there is definitely a case

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because like for Spaniards paella is paella, a specific type of rice cooked in a specific

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pan with a specific set of ingredients. And whatever is outside of those, that set of

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ingredients, it's just rice. So of course you can bring that to another country and

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say, Oh no, you can't call this paella. You have to call this rice, even if you're cooking

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it in a paella pan. So whatever is cooked in a paella pan in other countries, it's called

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a paella variation, which is not allowed in Spain.

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Yeah, yeah, they're very serious about it. But then like again, you know, it's kind of

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like, like you say, like everything else just falls under the title arroces, you know, because

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I mean, in Spain, there's not that much of a culture eating white rice as much. But I

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mean, obviously rice is a huge part of the Spanish cultural identity. I mean, rice is

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so quintessentially Spanish. So like, can you break it down for us? What exactly is

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the difference between what paella is, so paella valenciana, and what other like how

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it differentiates itself from other Spanish rice?

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I mean, other Spanish rice, there are many, many specific rice. I like very much one that

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is only with codfish and cauliflower, and there is nothing else to it. And I think that's

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a pretty cool combination. But you have black rice, you have arroz a banda, and so on. So

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for paella nowadays, I would say it has chicken, flat beans, garrafon beans, sometimes artichokes,

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and the saffron, of course. And around that, there are many variations. If you go historically,

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and that's something like most paella Nazis probably don't know, the oldest paella that

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has been found in Britain used rat de Lemporda, which is a country rat. It's kind of like

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a beaver sized hamster. It looks like, or maybe also similar to a cuy. You know, this

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cuy, this giant hamster that is also cooked in Peru.

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Kitty picket, yeah.

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Yeah, this was replaced by rabbit at some point, and then chicken. So in any case, it's

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a white meat piece of the animal protein, then the vegetables are pretty much the same,

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and that's it. Then there is people, of course, when you start you add some shredded tomato.

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And just before it starts burning, you add the paprika. There are variations where you

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add the rice before you add the liquid. This would be the Alicante variation, but the Valencian

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variation, you first add the stock, and there is a specific way of measuring and adding

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the rice in a straight line. And then usually at the end, when it's almost finished, you

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put the fire to the maximum to create like a crust, which is called a soca rat. And this,

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again, this is something that very curious people here do. And I've known many people

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that they had their first contact with paella in Latin America, like myself, that don't

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like this, don't like the soca rat, don't like some things that are done in the original

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ways of paella. You have to understand that Latin America was a Spanish colony. So like

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there is a paella that evolved in its own direction in Latin American countries. When

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people talk about adding chorizo to the paella, it's again a mistranslation because there

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are many things that would be called longaniza or chistorra in Spain, more like grilled sausages

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that are used in paella in many countries in South America. You will find this even

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in Spanish restaurants run by Spanish people in Latin America. So that's what I can

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say then. Another key point is like the thickness of the rice. The most gourmet rices and paellas

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you will see in Spain, they have only one layer of rice and that's something like very

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high end. But like in the most traditional ways, you have like a good layer of one to

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two centimeters, but no more than that. You see also paellas made abroad and they have

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like this 10 centimeters layer of rice. I've seen even in newspaper pictures putting paellas

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as an example with lime, which is not Spanish at all. And I'm pretty sure the flavor that

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it generates, it's correct. But I do understand that people get upset about it. Same as I

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do get upset when I see cua libre made with white rum or these kinds of things that are

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not acceptable if you belong to a culture.

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Yeah. I also grew up with these like really bastardized paellas where you just have like

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10 centimeters of rice, like fluffed up almost like basmati rice, right? Where it's like

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fluorescent yellow, it just tastes of saffron and it's loaded up with seafood, you know?

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But seafood often isn't even cooked in the rice or anything. And it's just like, if you

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know what real paella is, it's kind of like the first time you see it. Because really

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it's something very minimalist, you know? And that's what I like about it. It's like

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the quality of the rice is super important. And then like you say, the best paellas that

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I've had, they had almost just like one grain of rice layer. The rice was completely flat.

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There was not one grain on top of each other. All the grains perfectly intact, cooked to

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a point where it's still what you would call al dente and the socarrat.

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It's like, it's so simple. And then the garnish would only be like maybe a little bit of vegetables,

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some like flat, like, you know, broad beans or whatever. And then a little bit of protein.

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But really the rice is the most important thing about it.

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Yeah, I agree. Actually, the most traditional versions, they don't even use stocks. The

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most traditional ones are made with water. I guess at some point it was just logical

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to add a strong stock to a paella. And on that, I also have my opinion. I've tried

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with beef stock, fish stock or other seafood stocks and chicken. And for me, the best result

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is with chicken personally.

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Oh yeah? Really? Yeah. I mean, I've also, you know, like I, once you delve, it's such

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a deep culture and there's so many like different approaches to like how to cook rice, you know,

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it's a really, really broad spectrum. You know, people think of Spanish rice and they

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always think of paella, but there's so many variations. There's so many different combinations

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and also like very unusual approaches in a sort of international kind of point of view,

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you know, like they, you know, I mean, just talking about the stock, of course, but also

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like a sofrito, you know, like I remember I was cooking in Mexico with some Spanish

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chefs and they were specializing in rice and they were making different sofritos. One that

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stood out was one made from green peppers. And then I was kind of thinking to myself,

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I was like, you know what, like green peppers aren't really used that much like around the

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world, but in Spain they hold a very, very particular place in cooking. Yeah. Yeah. And

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they were caramelizing this down. I mean, as a sofrito for people who don't know, you

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know, it can be many things, but it's basically like vegetables or tomato or garlic. And it's

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basically cooked down and caramelized for a really, really long time until you have

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a very flavor intense base paste. I once saw a guy making a sofrito for two days, cooking

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it like a minimum temperature until the tomato was like super dark brown. It was amazing.

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Yeah. Was he, was he also a paella Nazi? Probably. I mean, this guy was Catalan. I mean, if you,

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yeah, see, see if you're, if you're having, if you're putting a dedication to cook your

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sofrito down for two days, I think like something in your brain, something in your brain is

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wired in a different way than the rest of the world. You're a bit of a maniac, but,

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but yeah, you know, I mean, like if you compare it to, you know, like tomato concentrate that

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you get in the tube and it's like super reduced and like very, if you get a good quality ones,

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like super umami rich, it makes a lot of sense. You know, you're caramelizing and you're reducing

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the water without burning. So you're just concentrating the flavor. And yeah, I mean,

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for me, it's like the best one that I've had was by far with Caldo de Marisco, which with

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a mixed seafood stock, there was these same guys in Mexico that I was cooking with and

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they, they were saying that all the stocks that they add, they want to get to a point

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where you could easily just serve the stock as a really delicious soup. And they said,

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if it's not at that point, then you shouldn't use it to cook rice.

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I agree. Like, it's like, like with risotto, like the stock is a dish. You just add rice

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to it. Yeah. But then again, with risotto, you know, you have to advantage that even

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if your stock isn't like super powerful at the end, you add a shit ton of cheese, you

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know, which is gonna and butter and butter, which is gonna umph your flavor like massively.

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But like with, with Spanish rice is like, you don't have to like, I think there it's

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really apparent that if you, if your broth is not strong enough and your sofrito is not

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balanced enough, then you can really tell afterwards.

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Yeah, I mean, but then I go back to the traditional ones. The ones you see like at homes are many

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times made with water because you already have you're using pieces of meat with bones,

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you have some vegetables and you have a strong sofrito. So there's your broth, you're going

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to cook it like for enough time. So to take the flavor out of all these elements. But

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of course, if you want to make a higher end paella, the stronger the stock, the better

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the result. For sure.

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Yeah, I guess. I mean, I guess we're talking about restaurant quality, you know, not to,

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I mean, really, like when I think about like, I mean, I've never I've only ever cooked these

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sort of like very elaborate rice as either in a restaurant or with other chefs, you know,

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where you end with and the passion and the like dedication towards the simple rice dishes

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from from Spanish chefs is insane. They take it super, super seriously.

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Yeah, and especially the the cook point of the rice. I think that that's where you because

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that's something very hard to learn and to teach. It's just a matter of experience. You

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have to cook at least 20 paellas and have tried hundreds of them to know exactly what's

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right and what's wrong.

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Yeah, totally. But I mean, like the cooking of the rice itself is also really intricate.

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I thought like the first time I saw it, I thought it was super fascinating, especially

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when people cook it over open fire, which is the traditional way of doing it, you know,

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and it's high flame a lot of the time. And it's such a simple thing. I mean, really,

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you're just cooking rice in a thin layer. But to get the cooking point right, to get

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it even, you know, sort of like moving the rice from the outside to the center and likewise

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moving the broth around, you know, like you see chefs like really obsessing over this

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paella pan and really caressing it, paying attention to where it bubbles more and where

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it bubbles less. I remember one guy, he was like really watching it and then sort of like

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taking spoonfuls of broth from one side of the pan and putting them on the other side

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of the pan. I mean, like it's really, there's a huge pride, you know, attached to this dish.

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Yeah. I mean, I would say it's not that complicated. That's why it's so famous. I mean, it's something

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really easy to make. Of course, to perfection it takes time. But at the end of the day,

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you're just putting some vegetables and some pieces of meat and then cooking them in the

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same broth with the same rice. If you want to simplify everything. So it's something

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that really for someone to make at home, if you have everything ready, it would take less

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than half an hour. Yeah. If you have all the ingredients ready. For restaurant, what I've

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seen is that they have like this super strong sofritos and you just add like the most fast

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way to do it is to have a super strong sofrito, super good stock. And you just mix the three

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ingredients and cook the 20 or so minutes that it takes to be cooked everything. And

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you can get really good results as long as you pay attention to the cooking point of

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the rice. Yeah, absolutely. And if you know your rice and you know, like you figure out

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the amount of liquids that it's going to need to get you that perfect thing, you don't even

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need to worry too much about adding stock, checking the rice, et cetera. Once you figure

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it out with the type of rice you're using, then that's pretty safe.

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What about saffron? Do you like saffron in general?

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Yeah, I mean, yeah, I do. I mean, like it's I like it where it belongs, you know, I'm

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not like a huge like it's one of those things kind of like truffle, you know, it's like

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a little goes a long way. And I especially like those sorts of ideas that I ate as a

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kid that were just overloaded with fake and cheap saffron powder. And that was like the

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main carrying flavor. And I think that's horrible. No matter how much aioli you put on it.

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It doesn't matter. But yeah, you know, I mean, saffron is a beautiful thing when it's high

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quality saffron and it's used, you know, sparsely, like it's it gives the thing the character

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it needs for sure. What about you?

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Yeah, I really like saffron. I remember when I was in Mugaritz, that was like in 2005.

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They did like this presentation at an international conference about saffron. So they had like

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15 different vacuum bags where they added saffron just to water just to see the the

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intensity of the color they generated with the same amount. And this was really interesting

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because you usually think about saffron, at least in my case, I think about La Mancha.

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But then I learned that there are very interesting saffrons as well in Iran and Afghanistan and

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Tasmania, like countries that you wouldn't tell. And as you say, you just have to roast

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it a little bit at the beginning. And when you add the liquid, it will like absorb all

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the the aroma generated. And also the other thing about saffron is that it's if I'm not

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wrong, the most expensive spice there is. Yeah. Yeah. Along with vanilla. But at the

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same time, you just need a little bit. So proportionally, it's affordable. It's not

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I mean, you nobody I've never seen a kilogram of saffron in my life. I just use like milligrams,

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I guess. It's definitely affordable, like especially if you're going to use it like

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a few times, you know, I mean, it seems like a lot if you're like at home just trying to

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make one rice and then you're like, oh, shit, I don't have any saffron. I guess I got to

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buy some and then you buy like a small flask for 30 quid and you're like, well, fuck now

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suddenly my pay a fortune. But if it's part of your pantry and use it, it's definitely

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worth it. And it's it's really worth investing in like good quality one also. What do you

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think about pimiento choricero for the paella? I mean, pimiento choricero, you mean like

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the paste? I've never used it for paella. I usually use like pimenton, like the powder

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one and the sweet one. And as I said, I added just before the water, so it roasts a little

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bit but it doesn't burn. But I've seen pimiento choricero like in sofritos and these kind

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of things. I guess you just one or the other. I'm not sure. I'm not such a paella expert

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either. Yeah, me neither. I've heard some people like say that it has to be pimiento

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choricero and other people, you know, like have a completely different opinion. But yeah,

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it's a good point. It's sort of like I feel like it definitely has a place in the sofrito.

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But then again, sort of like, you notice like I've seen also people do two different sofritos,

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one tomato sofrito and then one vegetable sofrito. Right. So like tomato sofrito usually

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sort of like poached garlic and then tomato and pimenton cooked down. And then like a

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vegetable sofrito that's usually sort of like onion or you know, I saw like the white part

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of leek a lot also. The same just like cooked down for a really, really, really long time.

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And then those two separate then added together with the rice when you sweat the rice. Some

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of the best results that I saw myself. Yeah, that sounds really good. And it also makes

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sense to do them separately. Yeah, I especially think about the tomato because it's so liquid.

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You want to give it its own process until it's really caramelized. Yeah, for sure.

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That's it for this week's episode of potluck food talks. If you like what we're doing,

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make sure to subscribe to the podcast so you never miss an episode. You can also find us

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on Instagram and TikTok as potluck food talks. The show airs every Monday.

