WEBVTT

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Hi, everyone. Welcome to Pot Luck Food Talks,

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the show where we talk food and kitchens from

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a cook's point of view. My name is Eric, and

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I'm here with Phil, the chiffonade grandmaster.

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And today we're talking creativity. We're continuing

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our series of creativity. This is going to be

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a series of episodes. I don't know how many.

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Let's see just how deep we can go into it. But

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first... Now, let's talk about actual cooking.

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We've been talking about all the constraints,

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the business model. So I will put it more specific

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to you. You have a restaurant, okay? You have

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two trained chefs. One of them is a good friend

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of you that you've been in the trenches together.

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The other one is someone you don't know, and

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you have four others that are, you know, like

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young chefs that one specific day they can cut

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a finger off because they did a mistake or something.

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And you're running this restaurant. I want to

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go more deeper into how many covers or do you

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think it's necessary to start playing around

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with dish creation or these kind of things? Because

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my next question would be, Soleil, let's define

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a menu. Let's actually think about, we already

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like on the first episode of this series, you

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already started with something that was like

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a... a charcoal grilled squab with wild plums

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fermented wild plums as a side and i could imagine

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some kind of tuber into that and that would be

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like a game dish okay like but how does that

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fit that's actually sounds like something fine

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danish maybe but you were talking about something

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more casual, like in the style of St. John, but

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on your own terms. So let's build dishes. Like,

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how do you build a menu? You said no tasting

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menu, so it's an a la carte. How do you structure

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an a la carte? Okay, I have three chefs, including

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me. Yes. Okay, easy. So from that, going from

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that, already we have to open five days a week.

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right i think the minimum for me in a restaurant

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that i want to curate there are there are two

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sections that i need basically or three sections

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that i need the lowest amount of sections of

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three sections so we're talking with very limited

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resources here right so that would be like starters

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grill and dessert something like that or exactly

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that you have a raw section starter section right

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starter raw whatever you know takes care of salads

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pickles crudos like raw fish dishes you know

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whatever maybe some terrines maybe some fried

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stuff you know if you have a fryer somewhere

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you know can i do quick quick fried then main

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courses right grill section a grill can take

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care of so much right a grill can take care of

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your meats of your fish of your seafood of vegetables

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can be the hard piece of a kitchen right and

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then desserts desserts I would put, in this scenario,

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I would put two chefs on starters, as in, you

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know, raw, whatever, and one chef on grill. One

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of the chefs from the starter section has to

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do pars. So there's pars and plates on the starter

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section. So one is like a tourneur, right? Like

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this, we have five days of the week covered,

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right? Five days grill, five days raw, five days

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pars. Very, very risky because if one of the

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chefs wants to take a vacation, it's kind of

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impossible. Or if he sneezes a day, okay, everything,

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the whole house of cards falls apart. It all

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falls down. So, okay, then we have that framework

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already. So that means like, what do I like salad

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-wise or like starter -wise, right? I like salads.

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I think good made salads are... something rare

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right so if we're talking about chile i've never

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been to chile i don't know what ingredients they

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have in chile but i would look what they have

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right do i maybe want to reinvent like like in

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mexico you know they had calites and i was like

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man this is so cool calites how would you describe

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calites you know i don't know calites they're

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these little like very like meaty greens okay

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it's a it's a leaf how beautiful yeah yeah and

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like they have a super cool texture so it's kind

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of like making a salad with that amazing you

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know then i definitely want some some fried snacks

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i definitely need some kind of croqueta because

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i love croquetas right whatever you do with that

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is like you know is there a local cheese is there

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a local spice like can you make a twist with

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that um raw fish or raw seafood right what's

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local do they have nice prawns that you can and

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then it's sort of like well maybe do they have

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what do they have do they have some sort of sort

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of like acidic fruit or citrus that you can make

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like an aguachile with um do i have really fatty

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fish that you can make a tataki with like those

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kind of things right you base it on the ingredients

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and on what i like so i i before you go on i

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had also a question like like so far you're talking

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about like an ingredient driven dish design approach?

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Would you also, because at the very beginning

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you said reinvent, would you also take traditional

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dishes and do a twist on them? Would you play

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that game? Are you afraid of bastardization?

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No, not at all. I think that's great. I think

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as we've said many times, I think if it comes

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from a place of genuine appreciation, curiosity

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and interest in the local culture, then I think

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it's great. As long as you don't step on any

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toes and you take something and say, this is

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shit, I'm going to make it better, I'm going

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to show you what it's like a la Richard Hart,

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then I think it's okay. There's a dish I thought

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it was very cool when I was in Bolivia from Camila

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Zeitler. It was, because it was very thoughtful,

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you know, and the rule, the constraint of this

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restaurant was to cook only with stuff that grows

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within the borders of the country. It was also

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like, kind of like a, I don't want to use the

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word political, but, you know, like an approach

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on how to develop the economy of the country

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through food and and hospitality right like so

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the idea was not even the drinks nothing everything

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is local right like so there is no sea and and

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um river seafood river food like river fish basically

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doesn't work that well for ceviche it works well

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for other things but but not necessarily for

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ceviche it's not i mean the difference is huge

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But a lot of ceviches consumed in Bolivia. You

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know, culturally, they're near Chile and Peru,

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and, you know, like, ceviches consumed a lot.

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Yeah. So she did a dish that was a chicharrón

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ceviche. You know, like, you would use the marinade

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of a ceviche, but you would pimp it with chicken

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you, okay? And then there's chicharrones in it.

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So it was a chicharrón ceviche. And it's something

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that I've noticed. Yet at the same time, chicharrón

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is something completely, deeply rooted in the

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culture. You know, and you took two things that

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are already in the culture, you put them together

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in a new way. I think that was like a very, very

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cool dish. And it was, you know, like a bar food.

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That's something you would have at the bar with

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a beer at the bar of the restaurant. Sometimes

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it was also like a starter. But I thought that

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was a very, very cool dish. Yeah, see, I think

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that's a super cool idea. And it's like that,

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you know, you play on local things. I think a

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lot of people really appreciate it also, you

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know. Because also, like, I think you can't lose

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your audience from your creation process, you

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know, like, and if you take something that clicks

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on them like this, you take two things that clicks

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on them, and you put it like in a completely

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different way. I was on a creative exercise in

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Japan with Furukan. He gave them something to

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taste, like it was something to, like a stimulant

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to make them think different. So they all tasted

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and they all were like completely, it was like

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a... I will say a cafe latte, right? Like they

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all tasted it and they were all like with this

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what the fuck expression. Like I know what this

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is, but I don't know what this is. What is this?

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What is this? I don't get it, but I do get it,

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right? It was coffee with miso, okay? So they

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were being completely mindfucked. Like, I don't

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know what's going on, but the... So two familiar

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flavors in a new and different way and something

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that clicks. And also this effect that once you

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explain it, everybody says, ah, you know, like

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when you say, yeah, there's blue cheese in the

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cheesecake and everybody goes like, of course

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there is, you know, but now I get it, you know,

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like, and I think that's also like a very...

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cool effect or something to play around oh yeah

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100 and it's like it's also a way of just like

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exploring and testing out because like if you

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if you're in a country that's not necessarily

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your own or even if you are in in your own country

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you know you're trying things that um that are

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sort of new to you it's also a way of of understanding

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it more right you're approaching something with

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your own mindset and you're delving into that

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like if you've never eaten raw fish before right

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or um and maybe you have a different reference

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you know you maybe you'll slice some raw salmon

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you make like a little mustard dressing you know

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because that's what you're used to and you put

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it around and you eat it and you're kind of like

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okay i see and And you're involving yourself

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with this thing that you don't know. And at the

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end of the day, right, cooking is an endless

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stream of curiosity, ideally, right? So I think

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that's very beneficial. Like you say, like, it's

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a win -win situation because you're involving

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yourself with something new, you're learning,

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you're testing something. But at the same time,

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you're tapping into something that, you know,

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the people who are from that place like, right?

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Phil, do you recommend podcasts to your friends?

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All the time. The best way of showing friends

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that you care is recommending a great podcast

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to listen to. I agree. If you're listening right

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now, you should show your love by recommending

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our show to all your best friends. It will make

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them happy. It will make us happy. PopLock Food

00:11:42.889 --> 00:11:45.590
Talks. Tell your friends. It will make the world

00:11:45.590 --> 00:11:51.029
a better place. So in the first episode of this

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series, I asked you what was value for you, and

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you said flavor reigns supreme for you. But if

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we ask what is flavor, and the intrinsic answer

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to that question is that you taste as much with

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your tongue as you do with your brain. do you

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put that into the equation? Because I was mentioning

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here a few examples of using stuff that is familiar

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for your specific audience, like the chicharrón

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or the coffee miso example. I also recently was

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having a conversation with John Reggefalk, and

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I asked him, like, if you have to, let's say,

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Paraguayan cuisine, if you have to figure out

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what Paraguayan cuisine is, where do you start?

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And he says... Well, first of all, I would travel

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to Paraguay and I would eat a lot in places and

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not necessarily fine dining places because at

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the end of the day, fine dining is already showcasing

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things that are rooted in the minds of the people.

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I would actually go to the small places or the

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grandmothers and eat there. Of course. Because

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he said, and I thought this was very interesting,

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there you will see things that are implicit.

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that are not written in cookbooks. You know,

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just thinking out loud and saying a silly example,

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imagine there's a place where you've seen cilantro.

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raw all your life and then you come somewhere

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and they cook cilantro for hours and you have

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this great thing that generates like a completely

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different flavor profile and that's something

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that they relate to and reminds them of their

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grandmothers right like absolutely and then if

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you know that if you have the here you're again

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playing like a detective and you find like ah

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there's something that the people relates to

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and using that and in let's say in a completely

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different setting in a fine dining setting where

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you generate just to make a silly example again

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some drops of the same flavor of that overcooked

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cilantro that makes click You're in a completely

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different level if you're putting that into the

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equations of what you're playing. I also remember

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Enrique Limardo. He's a Venezuelan chef that

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has many restaurants in Washington, D .C. and

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Baltimore. And I remember eating that food and

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it reminds me of kind of like the fine dining

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scene in Caracas where I grew up and where he's

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also from, but not quite because the... kind

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of like the approach because it's a very cosmopolitan

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city. Cosmopolitan in the sense that people will

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look for influences in Europe and in the United

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States and bring those things to the fine dining

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scene and that's something very common there.

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What I saw there was like a very Latin American

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food but with a completely different approach.

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And I asked him like, how would you define your

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food? And he said like... I wouldn't know what

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it is because it's not Venezuelan, it is Latin

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American, but it's also like from the United

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States. But something he said that I thought

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it was very interesting is that he tried all

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the restaurants in the city. to understand how

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the palate works there. That's also a way to

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understand how people taste, what people like,

00:15:14.909 --> 00:15:19.690
what are the levels of acidity or of umami or

00:15:19.690 --> 00:15:23.570
of salt or of many things that are in a specific

00:15:23.570 --> 00:15:26.690
culture. Yeah, for sure. I mean, this is also

00:15:26.690 --> 00:15:30.629
something interesting. I've seen it a lot of

00:15:30.629 --> 00:15:33.330
times, people hating on other restaurants, where

00:15:33.330 --> 00:15:36.259
it's kind of like... chefs that open a restaurant

00:15:36.259 --> 00:15:38.159
somewhere and they go to eat at the popular restaurants

00:15:38.159 --> 00:15:42.679
right and they go there and they go here and

00:15:42.679 --> 00:15:44.159
they're sort of like ah this is shit that is

00:15:44.159 --> 00:15:47.700
shit and you can be sort of like well maybe you

00:15:47.700 --> 00:15:50.799
don't like it but they're full like they're full

00:15:50.799 --> 00:15:53.720
every day so people obviously like it so you

00:15:53.720 --> 00:15:55.379
can hate it as much as you want but people love

00:15:55.379 --> 00:15:58.220
it right and you should you should keep that

00:15:58.220 --> 00:16:01.419
in mind and you should learn something like why

00:16:01.419 --> 00:16:06.639
why is it full like what what where does people

00:16:06.639 --> 00:16:09.879
find value here because there you have like a

00:16:09.879 --> 00:16:13.039
very interesting insight to apply on your own

00:16:13.039 --> 00:16:16.879
business and if you're only you know like looking

00:16:16.879 --> 00:16:19.779
at from a hate perspective like oh look this

00:16:19.779 --> 00:16:23.360
shit food and they're full well that's your problem

00:16:23.360 --> 00:16:25.840
you know that's so lazy and that's so easy to

00:16:25.840 --> 00:16:29.220
have that sort of thing and it's like it's I

00:16:29.220 --> 00:16:32.139
don't know. It's much nicer and much more beneficial

00:16:32.139 --> 00:16:34.879
to you when you start trying to find value in

00:16:34.879 --> 00:16:37.500
everything. But yeah, to go back to this question

00:16:37.500 --> 00:16:40.120
of sort of like, okay, what is taste? What is

00:16:40.120 --> 00:16:45.039
flavor? What makes something flavorful? That's

00:16:45.039 --> 00:16:47.460
so complex. Like you said, the example that you

00:16:47.460 --> 00:16:50.059
made with different associations that people

00:16:50.059 --> 00:16:55.840
have to something. It goes so far and wide. And

00:16:55.840 --> 00:17:00.899
I keep... finding things in just that topic that

00:17:00.899 --> 00:17:03.679
are very subtle very very subtle and often very

00:17:03.679 --> 00:17:06.079
hard to pinpoint of course we can say freshly

00:17:06.079 --> 00:17:09.019
cooked rice to somebody from Japan is going to

00:17:09.019 --> 00:17:11.579
evoke something different than to me or the smell

00:17:11.579 --> 00:17:13.599
of masa that we talked about not too long ago

00:17:13.599 --> 00:17:15.599
you know to somebody from Mexico if they smell

00:17:15.599 --> 00:17:19.119
masa somewhere right that's very very subtle

00:17:19.119 --> 00:17:25.359
but I think like for me flavor and also you know

00:17:26.109 --> 00:17:27.569
Going back to what we were talking about, the

00:17:27.569 --> 00:17:31.190
value and this idea of doing something good for

00:17:31.190 --> 00:17:33.369
somebody, having something that nurtures them,

00:17:33.470 --> 00:17:36.670
right? In experience, but maybe also just in

00:17:36.670 --> 00:17:40.490
what they consume. I thought that for me, an

00:17:40.490 --> 00:17:45.890
eye -opening moment was when I read Dan Barber's

00:17:45.890 --> 00:17:51.309
book, The Third Plate, and he related the nutrition

00:17:51.309 --> 00:17:55.859
and the freshness. of a vegetable to its deliciousness

00:17:55.859 --> 00:17:59.140
you know the more nutritious the more delicious

00:17:59.140 --> 00:18:04.240
and to me that made so much sense because when

00:18:04.240 --> 00:18:08.519
you've ever experienced going to a garden and

00:18:08.519 --> 00:18:11.920
you know like i remember when that's one of the

00:18:11.920 --> 00:18:14.980
main things that i remember from being in margot

00:18:14.980 --> 00:18:19.869
michael hopfman getting a celeriac from the ground

00:18:19.869 --> 00:18:21.829
not the like big fat ones that you know from

00:18:21.829 --> 00:18:23.809
the supermarket but like a little knobby one

00:18:23.809 --> 00:18:26.130
and he cut it open and he was like smell this

00:18:26.130 --> 00:18:29.150
and it was like on steroids you know and you

00:18:29.150 --> 00:18:31.430
were it was dense you know like really dense

00:18:31.430 --> 00:18:34.369
not not like a sponge like it was really compact

00:18:34.369 --> 00:18:38.609
yeah exactly and um and what reinforced that

00:18:38.609 --> 00:18:41.349
experience was one time i am sure i told the

00:18:41.349 --> 00:18:44.470
story before but it's still to this day uh one

00:18:44.470 --> 00:18:47.309
of the most impactful food experiences i've had

00:18:47.869 --> 00:18:51.190
is working in that garden in the summer, super

00:18:51.190 --> 00:18:55.089
hot, sweating my balls off. And at some point

00:18:55.089 --> 00:18:58.029
wanting to make a quick lunch with another apprentice

00:18:58.029 --> 00:19:00.170
who I was there with. And so we started picking

00:19:00.170 --> 00:19:03.130
a salad and we threw in everything, edible flowers,

00:19:03.329 --> 00:19:06.869
herbs, whatever, you know. And this salad, every

00:19:06.869 --> 00:19:10.250
single bite of this freshly picked, well -grown

00:19:10.250 --> 00:19:16.009
food. was like a smack in the face, full of juice

00:19:16.009 --> 00:19:20.609
and taste and minerals and just full on substance.

00:19:20.950 --> 00:19:25.109
And I think that when we talk about ingredient

00:19:25.109 --> 00:19:28.150
focused cooking, that that is a big part that,

00:19:28.150 --> 00:19:30.210
you know, cooking fresh is like, why is that

00:19:30.210 --> 00:19:33.470
good? You know, why is it good? It is just the

00:19:33.470 --> 00:19:35.769
fact that if you have a strawberry that you pick

00:19:35.769 --> 00:19:37.910
from the ground, you put it in your mouth, it's

00:19:37.910 --> 00:19:40.890
still warm from the sun. Whether you pick it,

00:19:40.970 --> 00:19:43.809
you put it in a box, you drive it to the restaurant,

00:19:44.049 --> 00:19:46.809
put it on a plate and give it to somebody. It's

00:19:46.809 --> 00:19:48.930
not going to taste as good. It might still be

00:19:48.930 --> 00:19:50.769
a very, very good strawberry, but it's different.

00:19:50.970 --> 00:19:55.230
And chasing that high is... That is still incredibly

00:19:55.230 --> 00:19:57.730
good. But we're talking about putting it in a

00:19:57.730 --> 00:20:01.390
fridge for weeks and then in a soup. You know,

00:20:01.430 --> 00:20:06.349
like the value chain is much longer. You know,

00:20:06.349 --> 00:20:10.910
like apples are... month ahead from from three

00:20:10.910 --> 00:20:15.730
to bite there are months of difference like usually

00:20:15.730 --> 00:20:19.890
more than 10 months for from three to bite you

00:20:19.890 --> 00:20:23.069
know like that's crazy absolutely yeah and this

00:20:23.069 --> 00:20:25.849
is kind of like you know some some chefs they

00:20:25.849 --> 00:20:27.609
chase something different right but like for

00:20:27.609 --> 00:20:34.099
me this has always been like almost a it's such

00:20:34.099 --> 00:20:37.660
a such a noble pursuit to try and source good

00:20:37.660 --> 00:20:40.740
ingredients and just transform them slightly

00:20:40.740 --> 00:20:43.819
to bring them onto the plate like so that you

00:20:43.819 --> 00:20:47.799
can to embezzle them a little bit you know just

00:20:47.799 --> 00:20:50.420
to make them you know a little bit here a little

00:20:50.420 --> 00:20:52.579
bit there you put them into like a little framework

00:20:52.579 --> 00:20:56.940
and you serve them so which brings me also to

00:20:56.940 --> 00:20:59.819
an interesting question In this framework that

00:20:59.819 --> 00:21:03.140
we're working on, just to recap, where there

00:21:03.140 --> 00:21:07.180
are like five phases, it's nonlinear, but it

00:21:07.180 --> 00:21:10.660
would be resources, technique, transformation,

00:21:11.420 --> 00:21:17.099
flavor, and value. In that, there is technique

00:21:17.099 --> 00:21:20.079
and transformation, one next to the other. And

00:21:20.079 --> 00:21:22.119
my question would be, when do you apply technique?

00:21:22.809 --> 00:21:25.950
to transform something and when do you prefer

00:21:25.950 --> 00:21:29.170
leave something untouched and how to play around

00:21:29.170 --> 00:21:31.650
with that because for example as you say if you

00:21:31.650 --> 00:21:35.039
have like a a beautiful strawberry, maybe you

00:21:35.039 --> 00:21:37.460
don't want to do anything with it. But you can

00:21:37.460 --> 00:21:42.339
also do an incredibly nice vinegar out of it.

00:21:42.339 --> 00:21:47.019
You ferment it and first you make like a wine

00:21:47.019 --> 00:21:49.759
and then you make a vinegar out of it or other

00:21:49.759 --> 00:21:51.859
things, you know, like or a kombucha or whatever.

00:21:52.140 --> 00:21:55.599
What's your decision process to that? Would you,

00:21:55.680 --> 00:21:58.400
for example, leave if you could? If you had like

00:21:58.400 --> 00:22:02.920
an hypothetical dream restaurant, would you leave

00:22:02.920 --> 00:22:05.359
everything untouched and maybe just grilled a

00:22:05.359 --> 00:22:08.700
few things? Or not at all? Or there are things

00:22:08.700 --> 00:22:11.519
that you definitely would process? I think that

00:22:11.519 --> 00:22:15.460
almost everything is an applied technique and

00:22:15.460 --> 00:22:18.500
a transformation. I think as soon as you pluck,

00:22:18.700 --> 00:22:21.779
let's keep the example of the strawberry, right?

00:22:22.079 --> 00:22:25.349
I think as soon as you pluck something. You've

00:22:25.349 --> 00:22:29.170
transformed it. You started a timer, right? Yeah,

00:22:29.190 --> 00:22:32.369
and that's already technique and science. The

00:22:32.369 --> 00:22:34.549
moment you take an apple from a tree, that's

00:22:34.549 --> 00:22:38.450
food science already happening. Absolutely, yeah.

00:22:38.750 --> 00:22:43.490
If you now take the strawberry and you decide

00:22:43.490 --> 00:22:45.869
to not do anything with it, just leave it whole

00:22:45.869 --> 00:22:48.450
and put it on the plate, that's a choice, right?

00:22:48.549 --> 00:22:52.750
That is a choice that you are making. to cut

00:22:52.750 --> 00:22:55.170
it in half or dice it really fine or smoosh it

00:22:55.170 --> 00:22:57.309
or just leave it whole. That's a choice. That's

00:22:57.309 --> 00:23:02.410
already also a technique, right? And I think

00:23:02.410 --> 00:23:04.910
that what you're saying is sort of like, okay,

00:23:05.009 --> 00:23:07.730
where do you, I think it's like the idea of sort

00:23:07.730 --> 00:23:09.990
of like, how much can I take away? You know,

00:23:10.049 --> 00:23:15.690
if we can leave the strawberry as it is, if it's

00:23:15.690 --> 00:23:17.609
good enough as it is, you can't do anything to

00:23:17.609 --> 00:23:20.529
it. Amazing, right? If you have a beautiful turbot.

00:23:21.289 --> 00:23:24.009
You know, how much can you take away? You have

00:23:24.009 --> 00:23:27.309
a turbot, you have salt, you have charcoal. That's

00:23:27.309 --> 00:23:29.750
already very little, right? Then a pan and a

00:23:29.750 --> 00:23:32.269
stove and some oil and this and an oven and like

00:23:32.269 --> 00:23:36.990
whatever. How can you, with the shortest way,

00:23:37.150 --> 00:23:39.529
get the best out of the product? I think that's

00:23:39.529 --> 00:23:44.349
the way. Okay. And now I want to continue with

00:23:44.349 --> 00:23:46.349
the example of the turbo because I think it's

00:23:46.349 --> 00:23:49.029
interesting. You have a turbo, you grill it,

00:23:49.049 --> 00:23:53.240
as you said. uh what do you build around it um

00:23:53.240 --> 00:23:55.920
do you add a sauce do you add a salad do you

00:23:55.920 --> 00:24:01.559
add a puree what and why like how do you build

00:24:01.559 --> 00:24:04.480
around it yeah i mean that again it depends really

00:24:04.480 --> 00:24:07.119
like where you are right and like what you what

00:24:07.119 --> 00:24:09.119
your idea is like you want to have it to be shared

00:24:09.119 --> 00:24:11.079
do you want to like then take the fillets off

00:24:11.079 --> 00:24:13.700
and have it like as a as an individual main course

00:24:13.700 --> 00:24:16.960
um and i think you should always build around

00:24:16.960 --> 00:24:19.099
like what's best right so if we want to we want

00:24:19.099 --> 00:24:22.619
flavor So we want things that are in the prime

00:24:22.619 --> 00:24:25.440
of their existence. So in spring, it's going

00:24:25.440 --> 00:24:28.000
to be, you know, little shoots and, you know,

00:24:28.019 --> 00:24:33.259
blossoms and, you know, sprouting herbs. In summer,

00:24:33.299 --> 00:24:36.259
it's going to be plentiful salads, you know,

00:24:36.279 --> 00:24:40.980
vegetables, etc. In autumn, you know, the vegetables

00:24:40.980 --> 00:24:43.740
change. And in winter, you know, root vegetables

00:24:43.740 --> 00:24:46.900
and preserves. Like, obviously, like you have...

00:24:47.240 --> 00:24:50.079
a sort of storytelling but also you're limiting

00:24:50.079 --> 00:24:52.220
yourself to have the things that are in the prime

00:24:52.220 --> 00:24:54.099
of their existence when they're at the very peak

00:24:54.099 --> 00:24:56.920
of their ripeness and the peak as we discussed

00:24:56.920 --> 00:24:59.900
before you know nutrition and nutritional value

00:24:59.900 --> 00:25:03.440
means deliciousness so this sounds very like

00:25:03.440 --> 00:25:06.920
you know nutritional and like dietitiany but

00:25:06.920 --> 00:25:09.500
you are basically just choosing whatever is the

00:25:09.500 --> 00:25:12.279
tastiest It's the tastiest. There's a reason

00:25:12.279 --> 00:25:15.359
why you should only eat strawberries at a certain

00:25:15.359 --> 00:25:17.019
time. Because when you eat them in December,

00:25:17.140 --> 00:25:20.039
they just taste like fucking wood, right? When

00:25:20.039 --> 00:25:22.480
you eat a salad in the middle of summer, when

00:25:22.480 --> 00:25:25.160
it's just cut from the ground, when was the last

00:25:25.160 --> 00:25:26.859
time you thought about the flavor of a salad,

00:25:26.980 --> 00:25:29.839
you know? For us, often salad is just a vehicle

00:25:29.839 --> 00:25:34.519
for the dressing, no? But salad that is well

00:25:34.519 --> 00:25:39.690
-grown and freshly cut has a flavor. So it's

00:25:39.690 --> 00:25:41.630
basically almost like making your life easier.

00:25:41.670 --> 00:25:43.809
You're choosing the most delicious things. At

00:25:43.809 --> 00:25:45.289
the same time, it's interesting because you're

00:25:45.289 --> 00:25:48.130
moving through the year. And we as people, we

00:25:48.130 --> 00:25:51.089
just have an intrinsic connection to nature,

00:25:51.170 --> 00:25:53.849
just as we have an intrinsic connection to things

00:25:53.849 --> 00:25:57.009
being grilled over fire. So you're already building

00:25:57.009 --> 00:25:59.670
on things that you know we have a connection

00:25:59.670 --> 00:26:02.859
to that just feels right and feels good. Hey,

00:26:02.940 --> 00:26:05.720
Phil, have you subscribed to our newsletter yet?

00:26:05.960 --> 00:26:08.779
We have a newsletter? What's a newsletter about,

00:26:08.920 --> 00:26:11.859
Eric? Every month we share one cool thing from

00:26:11.859 --> 00:26:14.099
the world of food and restaurants, and occasionally

00:26:14.099 --> 00:26:17.779
a recipe we swore we'd never share. Like your

00:26:17.779 --> 00:26:20.859
secret boiled egg lemon tart recipe. But Eric,

00:26:21.099 --> 00:26:24.579
that was my grandma's secret recipe. Not anymore.

00:26:24.900 --> 00:26:27.940
Subscribe to our newsletter where we unveil all

00:26:27.940 --> 00:26:34.150
of Phil's grandmother's secrets. Something I

00:26:34.150 --> 00:26:39.710
wanted to go into, sauces. Like, how do you design

00:26:39.710 --> 00:26:44.170
a fish sauce, for example? Butter -based sauce.

00:26:45.009 --> 00:26:47.910
What are the layers that you build on a sauce?

00:26:48.210 --> 00:26:51.789
Do you use, I don't know, agarum as a base, and

00:26:51.789 --> 00:26:55.029
then you mount it with butter, and that's it?

00:26:55.289 --> 00:26:58.589
Just two elements, or you add some acidity to

00:26:58.589 --> 00:27:02.519
it? For example, here, the... The sauce applied

00:27:02.519 --> 00:27:05.539
to also Basque cuisine is very minimalistic.

00:27:05.779 --> 00:27:09.259
But here, the sauce that you make, sauce or kind

00:27:09.259 --> 00:27:12.500
of like an emulsion -y kind of stuff that you

00:27:12.500 --> 00:27:15.299
put on top of grilled fish, it is four ingredients.

00:27:15.359 --> 00:27:18.519
It is olive oil, garlic, chili, and vinegar.

00:27:19.500 --> 00:27:22.940
Emulsified, warm, and that's it. And you don't

00:27:22.940 --> 00:27:25.900
need anything else, really. But it's also nice,

00:27:26.220 --> 00:27:30.220
you know, to have like... A sauce that makes

00:27:30.220 --> 00:27:33.400
you travel, you know, that makes you go somewhere

00:27:33.400 --> 00:27:37.579
else. And you get that with flavor, like with

00:27:37.579 --> 00:27:43.680
deep, intense and thoughtful flavors. Was there

00:27:43.680 --> 00:27:46.220
a design process around that? This is difficult

00:27:46.220 --> 00:27:51.359
to answer for me, right? Because food is... There

00:27:51.359 --> 00:27:53.940
are many things that we can talk about and many

00:27:53.940 --> 00:28:03.640
logical... deviations and approaches and ideas

00:28:03.640 --> 00:28:06.640
that make sense right like we can talk about

00:28:06.640 --> 00:28:11.859
acid cutting through fat or you know those sorts

00:28:11.859 --> 00:28:15.920
of things but i think at the end of the day food

00:28:15.920 --> 00:28:21.519
is just emotional to a level that is almost beyond

00:28:21.519 --> 00:28:27.170
explanation i think that the best cooking and

00:28:27.170 --> 00:28:32.109
the best dishes and the best chefs also it happens

00:28:32.109 --> 00:28:37.250
when people feel right so and this is why it's

00:28:37.250 --> 00:28:39.250
for me it's kind of difficult to talk i can go

00:28:39.250 --> 00:28:42.910
into like about my personal approach because

00:28:42.910 --> 00:28:46.750
i don't approach something in a logical way i

00:28:46.750 --> 00:28:50.109
look at something and i i love food i love eating

00:28:50.109 --> 00:28:54.349
and i love cooking and i just kind of like i

00:28:54.349 --> 00:28:58.869
i I creep forward. I think to myself, what do

00:28:58.869 --> 00:29:02.170
I want? What would I like? For example, talking

00:29:02.170 --> 00:29:04.549
about fish sauces, right? We talk about a red

00:29:04.549 --> 00:29:07.609
mullet. You have a beautiful red mullet and you're

00:29:07.609 --> 00:29:09.849
like, I love red mullet. Why do I like red mullet?

00:29:10.190 --> 00:29:12.829
Because it has this particular kind of flavor.

00:29:13.250 --> 00:29:16.289
It has the flaky flesh. It has the orange oil.

00:29:16.609 --> 00:29:18.930
It's a little bit fatty. It's very delicate.

00:29:19.150 --> 00:29:21.430
And you're kind of like, well, what would I like

00:29:21.430 --> 00:29:23.509
to eat with it? Would I like something super

00:29:23.509 --> 00:29:26.529
heavy and like... you know double cream boiled

00:29:26.529 --> 00:29:29.789
down maybe maybe not do i want something fresher

00:29:29.789 --> 00:29:31.990
do i want to lift it up do i want something summery

00:29:31.990 --> 00:29:36.049
it's it's more it's not really a logical path

00:29:36.049 --> 00:29:40.150
it's more like an emotion right what do i feel

00:29:40.150 --> 00:29:42.230
what direction feels good to me and then you

00:29:42.230 --> 00:29:47.349
explore that and once you have a certain i think

00:29:47.349 --> 00:29:50.099
it's important to Why is it important to have

00:29:50.099 --> 00:29:53.220
a technical foundation of ability? If you know

00:29:53.220 --> 00:29:55.019
how to make all the mother sauces and this and

00:29:55.019 --> 00:29:57.200
that and blah, you know how to make a jus, it's

00:29:57.200 --> 00:30:02.359
because you can free your mind. You have this

00:30:02.359 --> 00:30:05.579
technical ability and you can step away from

00:30:05.579 --> 00:30:08.720
this very tight framework and you can apply it

00:30:08.720 --> 00:30:12.299
to everything. You can make a fish sauce out

00:30:12.299 --> 00:30:16.680
of... fermented tomato water right and you're

00:30:16.680 --> 00:30:18.640
sort of like i have sweetness i have acidity

00:30:18.640 --> 00:30:22.160
i add some fat you know maybe i have like a nice

00:30:22.160 --> 00:30:24.160
oil that i made out of a herb or just a nice

00:30:24.160 --> 00:30:26.599
olive oil or whatever and you make a sauce out

00:30:26.599 --> 00:30:29.559
of that that gives you the same aspects of you

00:30:29.559 --> 00:30:34.259
know maybe a classic sauce but using different

00:30:34.259 --> 00:30:36.519
things right so you you're making something that's

00:30:36.519 --> 00:30:40.339
more interesting and more unknown um because

00:30:40.339 --> 00:30:43.990
you understand what you're after. You understand

00:30:43.990 --> 00:30:47.650
the foundation of what you're working with. Right.

00:30:48.089 --> 00:30:52.509
Does that make sense? Absolutely. Yeah. So, um,

00:30:52.809 --> 00:30:55.809
and I, by the way, I think that would be like

00:30:55.809 --> 00:31:00.470
an amazing sauce, just like, like the, uh, fermented,

00:31:00.710 --> 00:31:05.029
uh, water from cherry tomatoes and some, let's

00:31:05.029 --> 00:31:08.450
say basil oil. That's it. There's your sauce,

00:31:08.529 --> 00:31:10.490
you know, like it doesn't even have to be thick.

00:31:11.000 --> 00:31:13.700
It can be like a little broth around the fish

00:31:13.700 --> 00:31:16.140
and that would be a beautiful dish for sure.

00:31:16.279 --> 00:31:18.279
Yeah, yeah, yeah, for sure. I mean, I took that

00:31:18.279 --> 00:31:20.160
as an example because I've done that a couple

00:31:20.160 --> 00:31:22.039
of times. Also with different things. I used

00:31:22.039 --> 00:31:24.920
that as a sauce for cioletta at one point. And

00:31:24.920 --> 00:31:27.220
it was amazing. You know, fatty grilled cioletta

00:31:27.220 --> 00:31:30.960
with this like tomato flavor. And again, it's

00:31:30.960 --> 00:31:32.460
sort of like you have the fat of the cioletta,

00:31:32.460 --> 00:31:34.160
you have the roastiness, you have the meat juices,

00:31:34.180 --> 00:31:36.940
and then you have this like sharp umami acidity.

00:31:37.819 --> 00:31:42.920
of lightly warmed thick tomato sauce, but completely

00:31:42.920 --> 00:31:47.839
clear. And if you kind of understand how things

00:31:47.839 --> 00:31:50.579
work, it's the same with fermentation and emulsions,

00:31:50.579 --> 00:31:53.099
and you sort of understand how things work in

00:31:53.099 --> 00:31:55.640
their essence, then you can play around with

00:31:55.640 --> 00:31:59.640
that. I think that's when you kind of move to

00:31:59.640 --> 00:32:02.859
a new level of cooking. Also something I thought

00:32:02.859 --> 00:32:05.599
was very interesting about what you said. And

00:32:05.599 --> 00:32:12.420
so I've engaged in many creative processes, not

00:32:12.420 --> 00:32:15.339
only cooking. Actually, cooking is the less that

00:32:15.339 --> 00:32:19.200
I'm engaged right now. But in other things where

00:32:19.200 --> 00:32:24.480
actually my search is to go for the non -obvious,

00:32:24.619 --> 00:32:26.859
right? And I think that's one of the definitions

00:32:26.859 --> 00:32:31.319
of innovation. is something that has an industrial

00:32:31.319 --> 00:32:34.500
application and is non -obvious even for the

00:32:34.500 --> 00:32:38.220
experts. I think that's actually the definition

00:32:38.220 --> 00:32:41.259
for something that can be patentable on the industry.

00:32:41.519 --> 00:32:43.799
Somebody shows up, makes something that has a

00:32:43.799 --> 00:32:45.880
patent, and everybody goes like, oh, we never

00:32:45.880 --> 00:32:48.579
thought about it. But we could have. We have

00:32:48.579 --> 00:32:50.480
the resources. We could have thought about it,

00:32:50.500 --> 00:32:55.230
but nobody ever thought about it before. So in

00:32:55.230 --> 00:32:57.450
the airport today, you have like suitcases with

00:32:57.450 --> 00:33:03.029
wheels, right? But then if you see the... And

00:33:03.029 --> 00:33:06.930
how old are wheels? Maybe as old as civilization

00:33:06.930 --> 00:33:13.769
itself. But if you see the pictures of when the

00:33:13.769 --> 00:33:15.950
first astronauts went to the moon, they were

00:33:15.950 --> 00:33:19.990
walking into the rockets to be launched, and

00:33:19.990 --> 00:33:22.269
they were carrying their suitcases in their hand.

00:33:22.829 --> 00:33:26.009
So there were suitcases and wheels there all

00:33:26.009 --> 00:33:27.970
the time, but nobody thought about putting the

00:33:27.970 --> 00:33:31.589
two things together. And actually, as humans,

00:33:31.690 --> 00:33:34.549
we landed in the moon first before getting into

00:33:34.549 --> 00:33:37.890
that. And those things are finding two things

00:33:37.890 --> 00:33:42.049
that are there for you to see. But there was

00:33:42.049 --> 00:33:44.950
also this quote about innovation, that innovation

00:33:44.950 --> 00:33:49.630
is seeing what nobody else sees, right? And in

00:33:49.630 --> 00:33:51.670
the kitchen, you have so many resources and so

00:33:51.670 --> 00:33:55.809
many things that are usually, or I will say...

00:33:56.250 --> 00:33:59.230
traditionally thrown away, like the oil of your

00:33:59.230 --> 00:34:02.150
can of anchovies or the brine of your pickled

00:34:02.150 --> 00:34:06.109
cucumbers. There are so many things that you

00:34:06.109 --> 00:34:08.389
take the cucumbers and you throw the water away.

00:34:08.570 --> 00:34:10.369
You take the anchovies, you throw the oil away.

00:34:10.570 --> 00:34:14.030
There are so many resources that you could actually

00:34:14.030 --> 00:34:16.630
put those things together and there you have

00:34:16.630 --> 00:34:22.030
something. Like anchovy oil and cucumber brine,

00:34:22.090 --> 00:34:25.880
that's addressing already. And looking for those

00:34:25.880 --> 00:34:28.679
things and figuring out how to apply them and

00:34:28.679 --> 00:34:33.219
use them and on top of what, I think that's very,

00:34:33.300 --> 00:34:33.760
very interesting.
