WEBVTT

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Hi everyone, welcome to Pot Luck Food Talks, the

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show where we talk food and kitchens from a cook's

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point of view. We're recording from a place where

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the burners are loud, the pans are hot, and someone

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is quietly arguing about whether the eggs went

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in too early. My name is Eric Northman, and I'm

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here with Philip I, ruler of Habsburg. Neither

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of us is qualified to be here, though between

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us, we've broken more eggs than we can count.

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Today we're talking about the most deceptively

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simple ingredient in the kitchen, the one that

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lifts your cakes, thickens your sauces, binds

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your forces, clarifies your broth, and punishes

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you the moment you look away. Eggs. White, yolk,

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foam, custard. A fragile little machine that

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decides whether dinner becomes silk or rubber.

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but first amazing intro eggs let's we already

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had an episode about eggs but but i i wanted

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to go a little bit deeper into some of the mechanics

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of it you know because an egg is just not like

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like an ingredient. There's a lot of things going

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on there. You have the white, the yolk, you have

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even the shell that is a completely different

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thing. So you have three systems forced into

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one shell. So if we talk about whites, they behave

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one way. They want to become structure, become

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a foam. The yolks have another. It wants to smooth

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things. It wants to emulsify. When you cook with

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both, you're balancing two different intentions,

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two cooking times. Most mistakes happen when

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you forget that and treat it like a single thing.

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So what can you say about that, my man, Phil?

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Yeah, I mean, I totally agree. Eggs are such

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a unique thing. Like in the cooking world, you

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know, there are a couple of things, I think eggs,

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you know, things like potatoes, wheat, you know,

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also, but like there's infinite ways of cooking

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in an egg. I would also say that it's something

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that you never completely figure out, you know,

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like you spend. 20 years cooking and then suddenly

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you learn or understand something new about eggs

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or you get like a little hack or a little something

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you didn't know before. Let's go into the whites.

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I think this is like a very common thing that

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happens in kitchens that as soon as you have

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like a recipe where you use yolks, then suddenly

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you start to producing a lot of whites and most

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of the times you don't know what to do with them

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and you have like the fridge full of Tupperwares

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with whites. Do you have like a good way to get

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rid of them? Because even like for staff meal,

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it's like, well, yeah, I'm going to do like a

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frittata with egg whites. You know, it's not

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so sexy. Yeah, that's true. Unless you're like

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a health nut, you know, I mean, like just pure

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egg whites are not super attractive. Man, I mean,

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pure egg whites is rough. You know, there's only

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so and so much fucking, like, meringue that you

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can make. Or, like, you know, burned meringue

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tarts or, like, whatever. Lemon pies. Île Flottant.

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How do you feel about an Île Flottant? To be

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honest, like, all these things with egg whites,

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I don't like none of them. Maybe a turron. That's

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something I like. But, you know, marshmallows,

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souffles. il flottant, like this dry merengues.

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I hate all that shit. Really? Like it's too sweet

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or what? Yeah, I don't know. It's something that

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I crave or anything, but I would say the turrón

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is something I like very much. Probably because

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of the almonds and yeah, also of the crackiness

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of it, you know, like crack. That's something

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I like about it. What about you? I have to say,

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I would agree with you. There's a lot of meringue.

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I'm kind of like, meh, I don't know. It always

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needs to be with something sour. Otherwise, it's

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just too sweet for me. And depending on how you

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make the meringue, the whole raw white egg is

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a bit... If I eat too much of it, I'm like, bleh.

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But a souffle, on the other hand, I think souffle

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is a really underrated... dish and you don't

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really when was the last time you went to a restaurant

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they had a souffle on the menu yeah like i don't

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even remember yeah this is like nobody does it

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anymore it's kind of old -fashioned i guess i

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like in very in very hardcore classic french

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restaurants and like you know like fine dining

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level you you will find it every every once in

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a while for sure like like it's something that

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that it's never it's never old you know like

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you will always see somebody doing it I think

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as a play has this certain mystery about it,

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you know, it's like, it's like you say, it's

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like very classic. So you won't find it in like

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modern kitchens necessarily, but it's also not

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like classic enough so that you would find it.

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And it's too difficult to make so that you wouldn't

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find it in like a bistro or like a rustic French

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kitchen. So it fits this like really small niche,

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but there's something about it. I think that

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it's like, It's technical, but it's not like

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finicky technical where you're like, oh, you

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have to do this. You have to use this powder

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and blah. It's very basic, but still there's

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like technique to it. It's really easy to fuck

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up. It's very technical. It's very technical,

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but at the same time, it's easy, but you have

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to follow the rules and follow the steps. And

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yeah, and like most of the time, the safest way

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is doing it a la minute, you know, like doing

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it by order. Oh, you have to. Yeah, exactly.

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Like the max that you can do is have some, like

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a few ones that will be there for max 20 minutes

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waiting, and then you throw it to the oven. But

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not more than that. You can't do more than that,

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you know? Yeah, for sure. But I think like if

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you get it right, if you get it really right,

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then a souffle is a really wonderful dish. And

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it's so versatile. You know, like the thing of

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kind of like, oh, it's too eggy. Sometimes the

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soufflés, they have this like scrambled egg texture

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inside. That's all horrible. Nobody wants that,

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you know, but if you get it right, it's such

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a beautiful dish. I tried to get into it like

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a year and a half ago because I've never, I did

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soufflés in my apprenticeship, but apart from

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that, I never worked in a restaurant because

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it was such an old -fashioned thing. I looked

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into a recipe by Adam Byatt, right? I am a huge

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fan of. I probably mentioned him once or twice

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already. And he's got a souffle recipe. Because

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normally you make like a base, right? That you

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fold your egg whites in. The base is usually

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made like a choux pastry almost, right? But what

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he does is he takes rice and he makes rice pudding.

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So brown grain rice, milk, vanilla, cinnamon.

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Bakes it, right? Until you have rice pudding.

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Until the rice is really soft. He takes all of

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that stuff and just mixes it in a Thermomix,

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everything together. You have this very starchy,

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fine mixture that you then cool down. Ah, and

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that's your base. And that's your base. So no

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flour, but the starch from the rice is the one

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that gives you the structure. And it's so nice.

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It works so well. It's super solid. And at the

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same time, you have this beautiful rice flavor.

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It's amazing. Well, for me, a proper souffle,

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a proper, proper souffle, there is no flour at

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all and no starches, no cornstarch, no flour.

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It's just like a base that could be different

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things and egg white, you know? Yeah, for me,

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corn flour or flour is a cheat code. You know,

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like it's just to make it easier. It's just to

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give it structure. But for me, it shouldn't have.

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And I would say like the really classic recipes

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are like that. Like I couldn't be 100 % sure

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of that, but that's, I would say that, yeah.

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Yeah, I mean, with cornstarch, I would agree,

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you know, like cornstarch, potato starch. That's

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like, I remember one time in Margaux where we

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worked together, we were doing this white chocolate

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and candied olive souffle. It was terrible. I

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hated that thing. I also, I mean, like, I hated

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the flavor pairing because it was white chocolate

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and lavender. Have you said it in English? Lavender.

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Lavender. Lavender. You know, like, dude, first

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of all, that's disgusting. Yeah. Honestly. That's

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really a bad start. And then it had this caramelized

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black olive powder, which I think that can be

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pretty cool for desserts, for example, with strawberries.

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For sure. That's super cool. Yes. But not there.

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For sure not there. No, man. But these soufflés,

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we had to bake them, then unmold them and serve

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them upside down. I remember as we were going...

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we were just like increasing the amount of cornstarch

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in the recipe just like more and more and more

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it's like five grams more five grams more until

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they were just like rock solid they would never

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collapse and then at some point the chef just

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like took the plates back and he like took a

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souffle just like smashed it against the wall

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he was like what the fuck is this shit no but

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it's interesting what you said you know that

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like there is this that's something that i remember

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we did a lot at that pastry station that was

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like modifying recipes. I mean, in this case,

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it was just to, you know, add some starch to

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save our asses and be safe in service. But there

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were other cases where I think like there were

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pretty nice results or things that we would create

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new. Like there was not like an R &amp;D department

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in that restaurant. So like we would be on the

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go and like, okay, this recipe, let's modify

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the formulation a little bit, make some adjustments.

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I saw this book recently from José Andrés, which

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is called Change the Recipe. because you can't

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change the world without breaking some eggs.

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It's like a super short autobiographical book

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where he says a lot of things and stories, funny

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stories about his different businesses and everything.

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But that mindset of changing a recipe and adapting

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it, I think that's a skill that a chef needs

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to understand how to do it. I mean, mainly because

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if you're taking a cookbook that was written

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in San Francisco and you're cooking in Germany,

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the produce will be different. There will be

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atmospherical conditions that are different as

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well. And so it's not like a one -to -one thing.

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And this is something that you learn really well

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when I've done some consultancy projects for

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food industry where you know you... First create

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like a prototype, a little recipe in a culinary

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lab, and then that goes to a large factory and

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gets scaled up. That's where you learn that at

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that scaling up, it's not do the same recipe

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times 100 and it will work the same. Not at all.

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Like all their rules change once you start to

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scale things up. Oh, really? Absolutely. 100%.

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Yeah. This is like a basic. basic rule about

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industrialization and scaling up. Yeah. How does

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it change? I mean, like, what changes? I mean,

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like, first of all, the machinery will change.

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So you need to adapt into those things. But also,

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like, the ratios. And sometimes you will need

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some, to add some emulsifier or something just

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to make the things behave in the same way they

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behave at small scale and larger scale. But at

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the end, like I never participated in the scaling

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up process, but that's like a rule that there's

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usually a technician in the factory where that

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will work and it will take your small scale recipe

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and scale it up. And then there will be tastings.

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You know, you will compare the first prototype

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with the ones that were already done with the

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big machinery and the conditions that a factory

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has. That's very interesting, yeah. Yeah, yeah,

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yeah. So going back to the eggs. So it's interesting

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because inside an egg, there's basically like

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a civil war, you know? Like there are two things

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happening at once. The white needs more heat

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to feel cooked, and the yolk needs less to stay

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soft and creamy. And you see this when you throw

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an egg to a pan. You know, like you want the

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white to coagulate, but you want the yolk to

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stay runny. And that's the whole art of making

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like a super nice fried egg, basically. Which

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is not an easy thing to do. Absolutely. I've

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seen so many chefs struggle frying an egg. You

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cannot believe. I have here the temperatures,

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you know, like the white sets at 80 to 85 degrees

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while the yolk at 65 to 70, right? So you have

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to play around that. I've seen like this real

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videos where you see somebody separating the

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eggs, cooking the white and then putting the

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yolk on top. Which is, you know, like, at the

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end, it's like a technical approach to solve

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the problem, you know? That's pretty smart, yeah.

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Yeah, you know, like, actually, in this video

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that I saw, then they would fold the white like

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a little ravioli and have, like, this square,

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you know, like, kind of... That's pretty funny,

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actually. Yeah. I like that. Yeah, I mean, like,

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I've seen chefs struggle with frying eggs nicely,

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right? If you have the... anybody can fry an

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egg you know you you can train a chimpanzee to

00:14:44.960 --> 00:14:48.200
fry an egg right to do it nicely to do it really

00:14:48.200 --> 00:14:51.080
well depending on what your standards are right

00:14:51.080 --> 00:14:53.320
when you say okay what is my perfect fried egg

00:14:53.320 --> 00:14:57.779
i want the white to be fully cooked but not overcooked

00:14:57.779 --> 00:15:00.860
because you can't overcook egg whites you know

00:15:00.860 --> 00:15:04.299
where like there is like cooked egg white is

00:15:04.299 --> 00:15:06.549
not equal to cooked egg white You know, at one

00:15:06.549 --> 00:15:08.830
point when it's just about cooked, it's still

00:15:08.830 --> 00:15:11.470
tender and nice and bouncy. And at some point

00:15:11.470 --> 00:15:14.190
it becomes rubbery, right? Do you want color

00:15:14.190 --> 00:15:17.830
on the bottom? Yes or no, right? Then also the

00:15:17.830 --> 00:15:20.629
yolk, you know, do you want it to be raw? Do

00:15:20.629 --> 00:15:24.769
you want it to be raw but warm, right? Or do

00:15:24.769 --> 00:15:27.169
you want it to be a little bit waxy but still

00:15:27.169 --> 00:15:30.990
creamy? Those are all things like how this is

00:15:30.990 --> 00:15:33.090
the cool thing about cooking, how deep you delve

00:15:33.090 --> 00:15:35.740
into this thing. thinking about one preparation

00:15:35.740 --> 00:15:38.879
for one egg and then replicating that when you've

00:15:38.879 --> 00:15:41.759
decided what is your perfect egg what is it that

00:15:41.759 --> 00:15:44.259
you want say okay i want tender egg white i want

00:15:44.259 --> 00:15:46.299
a little bit of color on the bottom so i'll add

00:15:46.299 --> 00:15:48.759
a little bit of butter in the end i want to yolk

00:15:48.759 --> 00:15:52.019
completely raw but i want it warm slightly warm

00:15:52.019 --> 00:15:54.879
right how do i get there and then you make like

00:15:54.879 --> 00:15:57.399
200 eggs right and every single one should be

00:15:57.399 --> 00:16:01.649
like that Have you worked with egg yolk sauces?

00:16:01.990 --> 00:16:04.669
Like plain egg yolk and salt? Sometimes they're

00:16:04.669 --> 00:16:07.629
cooked sous vide, but... Because I've seen that

00:16:07.629 --> 00:16:10.409
in cookbooks or videos, but I've never had that

00:16:10.409 --> 00:16:15.389
on a prep station or anything. But I think it's

00:16:15.389 --> 00:16:18.769
a very versatile thing that pretty much works

00:16:18.769 --> 00:16:22.730
with anything. Any savory thing, you can add

00:16:22.730 --> 00:16:26.440
egg yolk sauce and it will work, you know? Absolutely.

00:16:26.440 --> 00:16:28.980
It's so nice. Like I have done it a couple of

00:16:28.980 --> 00:16:31.179
times. I mean, like when I was here in Berlin,

00:16:31.279 --> 00:16:34.659
we used to do it and just take egg yolks, poach

00:16:34.659 --> 00:16:37.139
them to a certain temperature for a certain time

00:16:37.139 --> 00:16:39.700
and then just mix them with a bit of garum. And

00:16:39.700 --> 00:16:42.639
we would add a little bit of whey also from like

00:16:42.639 --> 00:16:46.759
reducing. Super nice. Yeah, super nice. We used

00:16:46.759 --> 00:16:49.159
to serve it with grilled mushrooms. And that

00:16:49.159 --> 00:16:51.279
was the dish. Egg yolk sauce, grilled mushrooms,

00:16:51.440 --> 00:16:55.259
you know, super tasty. Yeah, it was on a dinner

00:16:55.259 --> 00:16:58.879
lunch recently. So everybody was cooking something.

00:16:59.100 --> 00:17:01.620
There was this guy, Miguel Angel Rodriguez, who's

00:17:01.620 --> 00:17:04.619
the chef from an amazing restaurant called Uma

00:17:04.619 --> 00:17:08.640
in Santander. So he cooked some artichokes with

00:17:08.640 --> 00:17:13.680
some ibérico, lardo. And then at the end, you

00:17:13.680 --> 00:17:15.839
know, like... He cracked some eggs in a bowl

00:17:15.839 --> 00:17:17.480
and he would take just the egg yolk with the

00:17:17.480 --> 00:17:19.619
hands and put it on top, some salt, put it on

00:17:19.619 --> 00:17:22.559
top. And, you know, like already the warm vegetables

00:17:22.559 --> 00:17:26.859
would warm the yolk up and... That's it. Then

00:17:26.859 --> 00:17:29.299
you break it, you mix it with the pretty easy.

00:17:29.420 --> 00:17:31.839
That's the way they do the eggs, the mushrooms

00:17:31.839 --> 00:17:34.819
at Gambara. That's something super common here.

00:17:35.079 --> 00:17:38.380
I mean, like also nice fried potatoes with egg

00:17:38.380 --> 00:17:40.279
yolk. I think it's one of the best things in

00:17:40.279 --> 00:17:42.980
life for sure. Absolutely, man. A fried egg,

00:17:43.000 --> 00:17:46.839
like a fried egg improves so many things, you

00:17:46.839 --> 00:17:50.059
know, potatoes, you know, stuff like a rice,

00:17:50.119 --> 00:17:53.329
like a Thai rice. Like what is this thing? what's

00:17:53.329 --> 00:17:55.569
the name but there's this dish that's like a

00:17:55.569 --> 00:17:58.190
thai basil stir fry holy basil stir fry it's

00:17:58.190 --> 00:18:01.089
like minced meat that you throw in loads of holy

00:18:01.089 --> 00:18:03.650
basil and then you eat it with rice obviously

00:18:03.650 --> 00:18:07.210
and a fried egg oh my god it's so good you kind

00:18:07.210 --> 00:18:09.910
of shred the like you cut the egg yolk and it

00:18:09.910 --> 00:18:12.869
goes into the rice and it's like it's so good

00:18:13.630 --> 00:18:16.630
Eggs are one of life's greatest pleasure, honestly.

00:18:16.930 --> 00:18:18.950
And at the same time, they're super fucking healthy.

00:18:19.130 --> 00:18:21.410
Yeah, I think it's so stupid when you see people,

00:18:21.450 --> 00:18:28.650
like, buying these protein bars and, like, when

00:18:28.650 --> 00:18:33.250
you can, you know, eat chicken breasts and eggs,

00:18:33.369 --> 00:18:35.869
you know, there's your protein bar. There's actually

00:18:35.869 --> 00:18:38.089
way more protein than in those protein bars,

00:18:38.210 --> 00:18:40.250
you know, like, and at the end of the day, you

00:18:40.250 --> 00:18:43.460
know. It's for sure healthier as long as it doesn't

00:18:43.460 --> 00:18:47.079
have this whole whatever, soy lecithin or whatever

00:18:47.079 --> 00:18:50.700
they add to those bars. And so simple and so

00:18:50.700 --> 00:18:53.059
delicious, man. Yeah, I think people overcomplicate

00:18:53.059 --> 00:18:56.079
this whole dietary thing quite a lot. Especially

00:18:56.079 --> 00:19:01.140
with stuff like eggs. An egg has so many things

00:19:01.140 --> 00:19:05.819
going for you. It has the protein. It improves

00:19:05.819 --> 00:19:10.569
brain health by... it's a some substance starts

00:19:10.569 --> 00:19:13.650
with c it's got antioxidants like it's good for

00:19:13.650 --> 00:19:16.890
for your blood it's good for your eyes it's um

00:19:16.890 --> 00:19:19.950
there's so many things you know and like people

00:19:19.950 --> 00:19:21.930
are always like really scared of like cholesterol

00:19:21.930 --> 00:19:24.930
you know oh my cholesterol but if you eat good

00:19:24.930 --> 00:19:27.170
quality eggs you know you you'll have to eat

00:19:27.170 --> 00:19:29.470
a lot of eggs to raise your cholesterol don't

00:19:29.470 --> 00:19:32.470
worry about a few months ago we published a reel

00:19:32.470 --> 00:19:36.369
that has already over half a million views uh

00:19:36.369 --> 00:19:40.210
on a lemon tart And the interesting thing, and

00:19:40.210 --> 00:19:42.549
we still get questions about this, like, how

00:19:42.549 --> 00:19:46.109
is it possible that, so Phil was explaining that

00:19:46.109 --> 00:19:49.609
here you mix eggs with butter and you bring them

00:19:49.609 --> 00:19:54.390
to boil, proper boil, boil, and it wouldn't have

00:19:54.390 --> 00:19:58.450
this scrambled egg effect. You know, like, and

00:19:58.450 --> 00:20:01.170
a lot of people tell us, no, that's bullshit.

00:20:01.230 --> 00:20:03.849
Like, even you said that yourself, like, the

00:20:03.849 --> 00:20:06.509
first time you saw it. So I had to research on

00:20:06.509 --> 00:20:09.269
this, like what happens there, and actually what...

00:20:09.269 --> 00:20:12.170
So there are a few things that happen here inside

00:20:12.170 --> 00:20:16.289
that. So this recipe has eggs, butter, lemon,

00:20:16.430 --> 00:20:19.150
sugar, and heat. So it sounds suspiciously close

00:20:19.150 --> 00:20:22.410
to scrambled eggs because you boil the whole

00:20:22.410 --> 00:20:25.410
thing. Yet a lemon tart never tastes like omelet

00:20:25.410 --> 00:20:28.190
because here the egg is not the star. It is a

00:20:28.190 --> 00:20:30.950
quiet engineer in the background that binds everything

00:20:30.950 --> 00:20:34.609
together. But we have sugar, sugar that interferes

00:20:34.609 --> 00:20:38.250
with protein tightening. Butter softens the network.

00:20:39.639 --> 00:20:42.900
Egg white is like a network that once a protein

00:20:42.900 --> 00:20:47.420
coagulates, it starts to build into solidify,

00:20:47.460 --> 00:20:52.160
gelify. Acid bends the rules of coagulation,

00:20:52.259 --> 00:20:56.779
so the egg thickens the liquid, but lemon makes

00:20:56.779 --> 00:21:01.289
the flavor. So this is... basically food science

00:21:01.289 --> 00:21:04.170
um yeah i mean like you said when i when i read

00:21:04.170 --> 00:21:06.349
that recipe the first time i was like that sounds

00:21:06.349 --> 00:21:08.789
crazy to me you know like actually like boiling

00:21:08.789 --> 00:21:12.670
the egg because i thought even if there's sugar

00:21:12.670 --> 00:21:15.069
and there's butter like proper because you really

00:21:15.069 --> 00:21:17.950
boil it i was like i i can't imagine that that's

00:21:17.950 --> 00:21:22.049
not gonna be it'll not curdle like it would if

00:21:22.049 --> 00:21:25.069
you just boil the egg by itself of course but

00:21:25.069 --> 00:21:27.390
i was like no way it's gonna taste horrible and

00:21:27.390 --> 00:21:30.319
then i did it the first time I made the recipe,

00:21:30.359 --> 00:21:34.180
and the result was one of the best curds I've

00:21:34.180 --> 00:21:38.259
ever seen. Like, it was perfect. Perfect. And

00:21:38.259 --> 00:21:41.259
with a really beautiful flavor also. And very

00:21:41.259 --> 00:21:43.819
adaptable recipe also. But then at the end of

00:21:43.819 --> 00:21:45.799
the day, you know, it just comes to show you.

00:21:45.839 --> 00:21:47.339
It just comes to show you that you don't know

00:21:47.339 --> 00:21:49.000
everything. You know, just because you've been

00:21:49.000 --> 00:21:52.299
doing something for a really long time doesn't

00:21:52.299 --> 00:21:54.759
mean that you understand everything. And it should

00:21:54.759 --> 00:21:57.140
encourage everybody to just try shit out. Even

00:21:57.140 --> 00:21:59.299
if you see something, you're like, no, no way.

00:21:59.599 --> 00:22:02.779
Just fucking try it out. Who cares? Worst case

00:22:02.779 --> 00:22:04.740
scenario, you've got a pot of scrambled eggs

00:22:04.740 --> 00:22:07.099
that tastes disgusting. And you throw it away

00:22:07.099 --> 00:22:09.980
and you start again. And you say, oh, well, I

00:22:09.980 --> 00:22:13.140
was right. Good on you. You were right. But best

00:22:13.140 --> 00:22:15.420
case scenario, you've learned something and you've

00:22:15.420 --> 00:22:18.039
got a cool new recipe to do. so usually you know

00:22:18.039 --> 00:22:21.259
what when to use egg white and when to use egg

00:22:21.259 --> 00:22:23.700
yolk you know like for some things and when to

00:22:23.700 --> 00:22:26.690
use whole egg You know, like, okay, I'm going

00:22:26.690 --> 00:22:30.529
to make an ice cream. Like, you go for yolk.

00:22:30.829 --> 00:22:33.549
There are also recipes that go with whole egg.

00:22:33.670 --> 00:22:38.089
Fine. You definitely don't want to use egg white

00:22:38.089 --> 00:22:40.789
for that, as far as I know. I have no idea. But

00:22:40.789 --> 00:22:44.490
for me, what I find interesting is when I see

00:22:44.490 --> 00:22:49.500
recipes that mix whole eggs with yolks. And it's

00:22:49.500 --> 00:22:52.579
like, how do you, what's the thought process

00:22:52.579 --> 00:22:55.180
or what's the rationale behind it? And one of

00:22:55.180 --> 00:22:58.460
my favorite cheesecake recipes, which, by the

00:22:58.460 --> 00:23:00.680
way, is available on our webpage. You can look

00:23:00.680 --> 00:23:06.299
for it. That is a take on a recipe from Suberoa

00:23:06.299 --> 00:23:09.420
and also a take on a recipe from Javier Rivero.

00:23:09.440 --> 00:23:12.579
And for me, it's the best cheesecake that you

00:23:12.579 --> 00:23:15.839
will find here in the region. And they use whole

00:23:15.839 --> 00:23:19.319
egg and yolks. And also the original cheesecake

00:23:19.319 --> 00:23:22.359
from La Viña would add some flour. This one does

00:23:22.359 --> 00:23:25.180
not. It's completely gluten -free. And I guess

00:23:25.180 --> 00:23:27.960
that's the function. It also adds richness to

00:23:27.960 --> 00:23:30.720
the whole thing. It also adds color. It's way

00:23:30.720 --> 00:23:33.579
more yellow. But it also gives it enough structure

00:23:33.579 --> 00:23:37.039
to hold the whole thing together without falling

00:23:37.039 --> 00:23:43.440
apart that you would usually use flour for. Do

00:23:43.440 --> 00:23:46.099
you come with those kind of thought processes

00:23:46.099 --> 00:23:50.799
when you're formulating a recipe using eggs?

00:23:51.779 --> 00:23:53.880
That's a good question. I mean, if I want to

00:23:53.880 --> 00:23:56.819
make it more rich, if I have a recipe that uses

00:23:56.819 --> 00:24:00.000
a whole egg and I want to make it more rich,

00:24:00.059 --> 00:24:03.059
more fatty, more heavy, I add some more egg yolk.

00:24:03.460 --> 00:24:07.099
If I don't want to compromise the qualities that

00:24:07.099 --> 00:24:10.920
the egg white gives me. But apart from that,

00:24:11.119 --> 00:24:14.109
it's like, I don't know. the other way around

00:24:14.109 --> 00:24:16.430
it doesn't really work so much you know but you

00:24:16.430 --> 00:24:20.049
could kind of say like all right um i don't want

00:24:20.049 --> 00:24:23.089
to i don't want it to be more rich i don't want

00:24:23.089 --> 00:24:25.450
it to be more heavy and creamy but i want it

00:24:25.450 --> 00:24:27.849
to be more structure you could also just add

00:24:27.849 --> 00:24:31.529
a dash of egg white you know into it there's

00:24:31.529 --> 00:24:33.930
always an option i mean if you understand kind

00:24:33.930 --> 00:24:37.190
of like what either one of the two gives you

00:24:37.190 --> 00:24:41.109
which is complex in a way but in its simplicity

00:24:41.109 --> 00:24:44.640
it's not complex right like the egg white gives

00:24:44.640 --> 00:24:47.500
you protein gives you elasticity gives you bounce

00:24:47.500 --> 00:24:51.619
gives you you know coagulation when cooked and

00:24:51.619 --> 00:24:56.200
um the yolk gives you fattiness creaminess richness

00:24:56.200 --> 00:25:01.480
um if you just approach it with that basic mindset

00:25:01.480 --> 00:25:05.359
then you know you can you can play around with

00:25:05.359 --> 00:25:07.779
that for example with pasta dough right i think

00:25:07.779 --> 00:25:09.819
pasta dough is a really good example it's like

00:25:09.819 --> 00:25:12.640
well what's your pasta dough for is it for filled

00:25:12.640 --> 00:25:15.640
pasta or is it for just straight pasta like tagliatelle

00:25:15.640 --> 00:25:20.460
or pappardelle or whatever you know so for a

00:25:20.460 --> 00:25:23.140
straight pasta you don't necessarily want the

00:25:23.140 --> 00:25:25.240
same texture as for a filled pasta filled pasta

00:25:25.240 --> 00:25:28.779
you need to be a little bit smoother right you

00:25:28.779 --> 00:25:32.079
need it to be like you need to be able to to

00:25:32.079 --> 00:25:34.740
close it and to shape it but you also need enough

00:25:34.740 --> 00:25:39.119
elasticity so it doesn't break right with like

00:25:39.119 --> 00:25:42.250
if you make a spaghetti you don't need that But

00:25:42.250 --> 00:25:44.910
you need stability and you need texture, you

00:25:44.910 --> 00:25:47.450
know? More texture than you would probably need.

00:25:47.509 --> 00:25:51.230
If you make that dough, if you make a strozzaprettido

00:25:51.230 --> 00:25:53.549
for a ravioli, you're going to have a really

00:25:53.549 --> 00:25:55.930
hard time even just rolling it out. Because you're

00:25:55.930 --> 00:25:57.730
going to roll it out a million times and it's

00:25:57.730 --> 00:26:00.170
just going to pull back, right? Until you have

00:26:00.170 --> 00:26:03.710
it thin enough so you can fill it. So approaching

00:26:03.710 --> 00:26:06.210
it with like everything in cooking, if you have

00:26:06.210 --> 00:26:08.349
a little bit of a basic understanding of what

00:26:08.349 --> 00:26:12.130
it is that you're dealing with, then... It helps

00:26:12.130 --> 00:26:15.150
you a lot in your approach of sort of like fine

00:26:15.150 --> 00:26:17.809
-tuning what you need things to do for you. Have

00:26:17.809 --> 00:26:22.089
you ever tried Albert Adria's? Well, I don't

00:26:22.089 --> 00:26:24.789
know if it's original from him, but I got like

00:26:24.789 --> 00:26:27.970
a recipe that was from one of his restaurants

00:26:27.970 --> 00:26:32.390
that already closed. This Bodega 1813 or something

00:26:32.390 --> 00:26:38.680
like that was the name. That was a flan. If you

00:26:38.680 --> 00:26:41.619
look for an old school recipe of a flan, like

00:26:41.619 --> 00:26:45.940
the Spanish creme caramel, it will be milk and

00:26:45.940 --> 00:26:48.799
whole eggs. But there is this whole new trend

00:26:48.799 --> 00:26:51.940
about making these overly rich flans that are

00:26:51.940 --> 00:26:55.440
also like runny at the core, that when you break

00:26:55.440 --> 00:26:58.779
them, it's liquid and it falls apart. And they're

00:26:58.779 --> 00:27:02.160
only cream with egg yolk. And of course, it's

00:27:02.160 --> 00:27:05.119
decadent and delicious and, you know, like enough

00:27:05.119 --> 00:27:08.960
calories to kill you in each bite, but worth

00:27:08.960 --> 00:27:11.900
the dying. And yeah, have you ever tried those

00:27:11.900 --> 00:27:15.759
ones? I feel like maybe one point I tried it,

00:27:15.839 --> 00:27:19.599
but I've never, I don't think I've ever had one

00:27:19.599 --> 00:27:22.119
of those really runny flans. Like for me, but

00:27:22.119 --> 00:27:24.539
I think also the reason is that when I crave

00:27:24.539 --> 00:27:29.329
a flan, I know exactly what I want. um like for

00:27:29.329 --> 00:27:31.349
me for example i don't put any cream in a flan

00:27:31.349 --> 00:27:33.650
like i wanted to be like quite eggy and like

00:27:33.650 --> 00:27:39.869
bouncy but very tender you know um but um but

00:27:39.869 --> 00:27:42.250
it sounds delicious like i mean again it's i

00:27:42.250 --> 00:27:46.650
do i do like that and also like a good uh practice

00:27:46.650 --> 00:27:50.089
both for for cheesecake and for this kind of

00:27:50.089 --> 00:27:56.509
flans is uh letting the the mixture uh mature,

00:27:56.730 --> 00:28:00.069
letting it overnight before actually cooking

00:28:00.069 --> 00:28:03.990
it. Oh, interesting. Yeah, so the sugar cures

00:28:03.990 --> 00:28:06.289
the egg yolk and it generates an effect that

00:28:06.289 --> 00:28:09.789
just makes it better. Oh, nice. Yeah. I've never

00:28:09.789 --> 00:28:11.750
tried that before, actually. So, let's go to

00:28:11.750 --> 00:28:18.210
GoFuckYourself. GoFuckYourself. GoFuckYourself.

00:28:19.089 --> 00:28:24.369
Egg whites whip better if they're aged. True

00:28:24.369 --> 00:28:28.099
or false? That is a myth that I've heard for

00:28:28.099 --> 00:28:32.980
many, many, many years. And I want to say I don't

00:28:32.980 --> 00:28:36.140
think that's true, but so many people swear by

00:28:36.140 --> 00:28:38.559
it, like so many pastry chefs that I've worked

00:28:38.559 --> 00:28:44.279
with also, that I'm doubtful. But I would say

00:28:44.279 --> 00:28:48.539
it's not true. You're wrong. As eggs age, the

00:28:48.539 --> 00:28:51.839
pH rises and proteins unfold more easily, improving

00:28:51.839 --> 00:28:56.150
foam formation. There you go. That was wrong.

00:28:56.329 --> 00:29:00.309
One myth. Never salt eggs before cooking. What

00:29:00.309 --> 00:29:01.609
do you think on that? I think that's bullshit.

00:29:02.250 --> 00:29:05.930
Why? I don't know. Of course, you can say the

00:29:05.930 --> 00:29:09.369
salt denatures the proteins and stuff, but I

00:29:09.369 --> 00:29:12.670
don't think it has that much of an effect. Actually,

00:29:12.890 --> 00:29:16.670
the thought behind this is that salt toughens

00:29:16.670 --> 00:29:20.869
the eggs, but the truth is it actually helps

00:29:20.869 --> 00:29:24.710
produce softer scrambled eggs. If you slide it

00:29:24.710 --> 00:29:28.930
as salted before. Crazy. High heat makes better

00:29:28.930 --> 00:29:32.609
scrambled eggs. Bullshit. So high heat creates

00:29:32.609 --> 00:29:36.769
tight protein networks and dry curds. Gentler

00:29:36.769 --> 00:29:40.470
heat allowed the proteins to coagulate gradually.

00:29:40.930 --> 00:29:42.789
Yeah, but not as like, you know, I'm not a fan

00:29:42.789 --> 00:29:45.150
of the whole like Gordon Ramsay on the heat,

00:29:45.150 --> 00:29:46.750
off the heat, on the heat, off the heat and stir

00:29:46.750 --> 00:29:49.130
like a fucking idiot, you know? So you have this

00:29:49.130 --> 00:29:54.619
like coagulated kind of like. 60, 66 degree warm

00:29:54.619 --> 00:29:58.740
egg sludge. Like I like a little bit of texture,

00:29:58.900 --> 00:30:01.319
like a little bit, like I like the very soft

00:30:01.319 --> 00:30:03.500
curves. So you have this like uneven texture

00:30:03.500 --> 00:30:07.099
in your scrambled egg, but not just like one

00:30:07.099 --> 00:30:11.039
puree, you know? I like very simple, uh, omelets,

00:30:11.140 --> 00:30:14.460
you know, like I roll them. So they're a little

00:30:14.460 --> 00:30:17.559
bit runny at the core, but sometimes even with

00:30:17.559 --> 00:30:20.299
color on the outside, I don't like those, uh,

00:30:20.799 --> 00:30:24.099
quotes perfectly omelettes where they have zero

00:30:24.099 --> 00:30:29.779
color and are perfectly rolled. No. I mean, it's

00:30:29.779 --> 00:30:33.799
a thing, but I prefer like. I like them. I think

00:30:33.799 --> 00:30:35.980
they have their place. Yeah. Yeah, they do. They

00:30:35.980 --> 00:30:40.740
do. Are eggs high in cholesterol? What do you

00:30:40.740 --> 00:30:44.539
say? I say they, like they are, sure. But like,

00:30:44.599 --> 00:30:46.759
I don't think that cholesterol equals cholesterol.

00:30:47.699 --> 00:30:52.240
I think that if you eat good quality eggs, like

00:30:52.240 --> 00:30:54.519
you don't have to worry about it too much. This

00:30:54.519 --> 00:30:56.220
would be my take. As far as I know, that's a

00:30:56.220 --> 00:31:00.200
myth. Like the thing that you shouldn't eat eggs

00:31:00.200 --> 00:31:02.319
at night because they're high in cholesterol

00:31:02.319 --> 00:31:05.339
and blah, blah, blah. But let's see. And the

00:31:05.339 --> 00:31:09.720
answer is yes, they're high in cholesterol. But

00:31:09.720 --> 00:31:12.019
that doesn't mean they're harmful for most people.

00:31:12.099 --> 00:31:16.880
One egg has about 180 to 200 milligrams of cholesterol,

00:31:17.259 --> 00:31:20.880
mostly in the yolk. However, modern research

00:31:20.880 --> 00:31:23.700
shows that dietary cholesterol has limited effect

00:31:23.700 --> 00:31:27.059
on blood cholesterol for most healthy individuals.

00:31:28.140 --> 00:31:30.680
The bigger impact usually comes from saturated

00:31:30.680 --> 00:31:34.119
fats and overall diet, not eggs themselves. That's

00:31:34.119 --> 00:31:38.019
what I've heard, that eating eggs at night, the

00:31:38.019 --> 00:31:40.180
problem is the fat where you cook it and not

00:31:40.180 --> 00:31:44.279
the egg itself. Ah, I see. Let me check on that

00:31:44.279 --> 00:31:48.180
as well. Is it unhealthy eating eggs at night?

00:31:48.500 --> 00:31:52.259
No, eating eggs at night is not unhealthy at

00:31:52.259 --> 00:31:55.140
all. What matters is how much you eat and how

00:31:55.140 --> 00:31:57.819
they're cooked, not the time of the day. So if

00:31:57.819 --> 00:32:00.619
they're high, I mean, they're high in protein

00:32:00.619 --> 00:32:04.200
and fat, so they can actually help you feel full

00:32:04.200 --> 00:32:07.420
and stabilize blood sugar overnight. They're

00:32:07.420 --> 00:32:09.920
also relatively easy to digest for most people.

00:32:10.119 --> 00:32:13.400
The only issue is very high greasy egg dishes

00:32:13.400 --> 00:32:18.619
late at night. That's, yeah, that's what I, that's

00:32:18.619 --> 00:32:20.440
something I heard in culinary school, you know,

00:32:20.460 --> 00:32:23.880
like 20 years ago. Yeah. You hear a lot of cool

00:32:23.880 --> 00:32:25.960
things. I remember at culinary school, they told

00:32:25.960 --> 00:32:29.329
us that, you need to steer me to look at the

00:32:29.329 --> 00:32:32.509
juice. Yeah, and that's something that still

00:32:32.509 --> 00:32:35.869
today is repeated a lot. But you know what I

00:32:35.869 --> 00:32:39.029
really think about these things? I think myths

00:32:39.029 --> 00:32:43.730
and legends sometimes are important. Having things

00:32:43.730 --> 00:32:47.710
in the common imaginary, even if they're not

00:32:47.710 --> 00:32:51.930
scientifically true, but they somehow make a

00:32:51.930 --> 00:32:57.940
point, I think they're useful. That's not true

00:32:57.940 --> 00:33:01.880
that meat sears the meat. It holds the juices

00:33:01.880 --> 00:33:05.359
inside by searing it. But it's a good practice

00:33:05.359 --> 00:33:09.240
to sear the meat. That's true. I think that's

00:33:09.240 --> 00:33:13.500
the point. Yeah, fair enough. Because also, for

00:33:13.500 --> 00:33:17.759
example, here, you know the Gilda, the iconic

00:33:17.759 --> 00:33:20.680
pincho. There are a couple of legends around

00:33:20.680 --> 00:33:23.039
it. One is that it was the first pincho ever

00:33:23.039 --> 00:33:26.480
created in Basque cuisine. And also that it was

00:33:26.480 --> 00:33:29.740
named after Rita Haywood and this and that. And

00:33:29.740 --> 00:33:34.099
this is something that is widely repeated. There

00:33:34.099 --> 00:33:37.279
are even, yeah, that it was named Hilda after

00:33:37.279 --> 00:33:41.319
Rita Haywood's Gilda movie because it looks like

00:33:41.319 --> 00:33:45.059
a female, like the shape of the head with the...

00:33:45.519 --> 00:33:48.339
Truth is, most of the things were written way

00:33:48.339 --> 00:33:52.220
later after it was created. And this happens

00:33:52.220 --> 00:33:56.440
with many things, that something is created,

00:33:56.680 --> 00:34:01.759
years later somebody gives it a meaning or makes

00:34:01.759 --> 00:34:06.980
up a background history, and that sticks. Very

00:34:06.980 --> 00:34:10.639
commonly in many things. I could think of some

00:34:10.639 --> 00:34:18.210
other examples. Food talk!
