WEBVTT

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Hi, everyone. Welcome to Pot Luck Food Talks,

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the show where we talk food and kitchens from

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a cook's point of view. We're recording live

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from a place where bottles are open, the rules

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are flexible, and someone probably built a bar

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five minutes before service. My name is Erich

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von Stroheim, and I'm here with Philip Glass.

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Neither of us is qualified to be here. Today,

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we're talking about food that travels, pop -ups,

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borrowed kitchens, late -night tacos, and the

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cooks and mentors who pass things along quietly,

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one bottle, one service, one piece of advice

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at a time. But first... How's it going, man?

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Yeah, good, still alive. Yeah, how's life under

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missile attacks in Dubai? Yeah, crazy, man. A

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little bit crazy, but it seems like everything

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is fairly under control. A bit fucking surreal

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to see missiles being intercepted in the sky,

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but, you know, all things considering, everything's

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okay. Yeah, I guess you're used to work under

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pressure. It's just like one more layer to it.

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Yeah, one more layer, exactly. Just getting the

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fucking, you know, the like alarm on your phone,

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you know, like missile incoming just means you're

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going to send a fucking starter quicker, you

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know? Fuck, man. I know there are no wine cellars,

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probably. No, no, no. So how are you? What's

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going on? Good, man. Good. Like I did a short

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trip to Madrid. I went to some really nice traditional

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task. I think the thing about Madrid is not going

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to... Modern, casual restaurants is more about

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going to this all -routed places that have been

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open for decades or even centuries. There are

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some that have been open for centuries. And go

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there and have just down -to -earth, ultra -traditional

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Spanish food. That's the deal in Madrid for me.

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Yeah, in Madrid, you can, like, I think in Madrid,

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you could find that really well, no? Stuff like

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gallos and super nice. We went to La Bola. La

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Bola, which is the Cayos temple. And that's exactly

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what I'm talking about. You enter this place,

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you know, like the Cayos are tribe, for those

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who don't know. This was not Cayos. This was

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cocido madrileño, which is this traditional chickpea

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stew with different meats, like ultra intense

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broth, almost like a ramen that is cooked in

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a clay pot. So like each pot is one portion.

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I would definitely go, which is what I did. I

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went with a friend and we shared one for both.

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And then we ordered something else. It's not

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what people usually do, but it's what I recommend.

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I once recommended this to a friend who went

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on a date and they had one each. And, you know,

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like after that, you know, they went to sleep.

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Hey, but cocido madrileño ramen sounds like the

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perfect kind of fucking fusion food. Oh, yeah.

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Oh, yeah, absolutely. Like using the cocido broth

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and making a noodle soup out of it. Genius. There's

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nothing that could go wrong with that. Absolutely.

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That sounds like a lot of fun. So, dude, I wanted

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to ask you about, because I don't have the context,

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but I saw. Like this Instagram post that you

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were sharing and also, Mishael, about this Tres

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thing in Dubai that I don't know if it's a restaurant,

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a pop -up, an event that you guys organized,

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but it looked really cool. It looked like a collaboration.

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It looked like you were doing some Mexican food.

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What happened there? What can you elaborate on

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that? Yeah, so it was really, really fun. It

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was really cool. It was in February. And so basically,

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Tres is a restaurant that relatively recently

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opened up here in Dubai, end of last year. And

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the concept is by my friend Brandon, who I know

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from my time in working in Mexico City. So the

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Instagram account is Cocina Underline Tres. T

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-R -E -S. And yeah, you can see it there. That's

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it. And, you know, like he's an amazing chef.

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Like I've known him for over 10 years and he

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worked in amazing places. He worked in Pujol.

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He worked in Maximo Bistro for a really, really

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long time. He worked in Japan for a long time.

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He's really into Japanese food, like like capo

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style omakase food. And he's really into tea.

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And so the guys who opened this restaurant, they

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have a restaurant here in Dubai called Honeycomb.

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And Honeycomb, the food concept of it is made

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by Matt Abergale from Yardbird in Hong Kong.

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So he made the whole food concept, right? And

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so when they wanted to open a new place and they

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were sort of thinking, oh, let's maybe make Mexican

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food. Matt, because he's good friends with Brandon,

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he recommended Brandon to do the food concept.

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Did an absolutely amazing job. It's so rare,

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you know, like for people who've been to Mexico

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and have experienced real Mexican food. It's

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very, very rare to find that, like the authentic

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flavor. It doesn't have to be traditional dishes

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per se, but the flavor profile and like the ingredients

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to really find that outside. It's always like

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text mixed or whatever. You know, Brandon did

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a fucking amazing job. Like the food is absolutely

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delicious. It's exactly what Dubai needs, you

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know, apart from needing not to be bombed anymore.

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They need these like casual restaurants where

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you could just go grab a bite, have a drink.

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It's really fun. I think one of the, for me at

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least, like I haven't been to Mexico and my authentic

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Mexican food experiences are limited. But something

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that for me really tells the difference is the

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punchiness. You know, you need to have that clack,

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like that. sour kick or the you know like that

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deep uh deep aromas and the spiciness not just

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spicy but but those floral things that go on

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the underneath i think that those are like like

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the things i look for most yeah absolutely and

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it's like like the the techniques and the flavor

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profile of mexican food they're so like ancient

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and so deep like they're so beautiful you know

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i mean like from From things that are, like,

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well -known, like, you know, the different types

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of salsas, you know, which can be, like, you

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know, I mean, the chili culture, you know, is

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amazing. You go to a market in Mexico and, like,

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from fresh to dry to smoked to preserved to,

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like, in adobo, like... They invented it, basically.

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Incredible. Chili culture, you know, like...

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Absolutely, yeah. But then also, like, ancient,

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like, things like mole, you know, we all kind

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of, like, nowadays, like, people who are into

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food, they know mole, but they know mole as this,

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like... very dark sauce with like chocolate and

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dried fruit and stuff like that but there's different

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types of moles you know there's there's green

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mole there's um mole -esque sauces like pipian

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which is made out of um pumpkin seeds and like

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the first time like i tried these sauces in in

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mexico like i was mind blown because it's kind

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of like satay sauce but like it from a different

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world Super, super cool. Really unique. Yeah,

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so Brandon made a food concept like using real

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Mexican roots in a very, very fun and casual

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way. It's really, really good. And so when I

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saw him, like we reconnected after 10 years of

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not having seen each other, you know, he's trying

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to open his restaurant concept in Mexico City

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called NACAR. So people want to follow Brandon,

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just Google, search on Instagram NACAR Mexico.

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That's his concept. He basically does Mexican

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food with a very Japanese influence in a sort

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of like omakase way. It's very, very cool. And

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after meeting up for a couple of times, we said,

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hey, why don't you come to the club and we do

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a collaboration together. We'll collaborate on

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a menu. We'll do like one big table of like 50

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people. We'll do one tasting menu. So it was

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a one -day event, what you guys did. Well, we

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did, yeah. Tres is an individual restaurant,

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but we did like a one -day event in the club.

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Okay, because I wasn't completely understanding

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what was going on. Okay, that's pretty cool.

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Okay, okay, okay. Yeah, it was super fun. It

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was super fun because like, you know, he's a

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really, really good chef and he's also just a

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fucking professional. You know, we've done in

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the arts club, we've done a couple of collaborations

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with people. And since I rejoined, we've done

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three plus the Brandon one. And every single

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time, these collaborations were an absolute shitshow.

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It's incredible. People who have a big name in

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the industry, they've got their own restaurants,

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they're on TV, they're in magazines. And you

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ask them to collaborate on something, they have

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no fucking idea what's going on. You would be

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surprised that these people, 80 % of the time,

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don't do any prep. anything they just show up

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an hour before the event actually happens and

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it's like all right what are we doing and then

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they just go around the tables hey hello hey

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hey how's it going then afterwards they let's

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they take photos with the people you know and

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then they say all right all right guys bye have

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fun cleaning up see you later and with brandon

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it's not like it wasn't like that you know he's

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a real professional it's just super cool to talk

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about dishes, think about dishes together. We

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did some really cool stuff. How is it to adapt

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Mexican cuisine to an Arab audience? Because,

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of course, there's no pork. I don't know how

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much is alcohol present in actually cooking in

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Mexican cuisine. I think not that much, but probably

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somewhere. But yeah, besides that, is it an easy

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to adapt cuisine to that audience? You know,

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you would think not. But after you spend some

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time here in the Emirates, it gets easier and

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easier. Also because we have access to some really,

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really good produce at this point in time. For

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example, Mexican food uses a lot of manteca,

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a lot of pork fat, and a lot of pork in itself.

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So obviously there's no pork. But manteca, you

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can also use really good, high -quality Wagyu

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beef fat. This is very delicious. Like, you know,

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and we have a lot of that. Wow, that's, yeah,

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that's super interesting, that adaptation. It

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reminds me when I was in Mass in Tokyo with Santiago

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Fernandez, he had like a dish where the original

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dish at Central in Lima, Peru. was made with

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alpaca, which is, you know, basically this llama,

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not llama, but like a similar animal from the

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Andes, which that meat has a specific toxin that

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makes it banned in Japan. So he did an adaptation,

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like same, you know, same composition, same flavors

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and everything, but he used Wagyu beef tongue.

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instead of, you know, like at the end of the

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day, you know, like that's what adapting is about.

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I think that's something basically that every

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chef should know, you know? Yeah, absolutely.

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Absolutely. It's, you know, often it's good to

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have limitations. It kind of pushes you to rethink

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certain things when everything's possible and

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everything's available. It sometimes almost limits,

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it like stops you, you know, when you have limitations,

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it forces you to think in a certain way and in

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a certain direction. And often you find things

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that you end up really, really liking, you know,

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like. For example, Brandon at Tres, he made this

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very simple starter of queso fundido. So he has

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this little cast iron skillet and he makes chorizo

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from fish. So he just dices up fish and cures

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it like a chorizo, like a fresh chorizo. And

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then lets that out in the pan and puts queso

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Oaxaca on top and gratins it and serves that

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with fresh tortillas. And you basically scoop

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this. melted cheese with the fish chorizo out

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onto the tortilla and eat it and it's fucking

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delicious you just kind of you're kind of like

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well i can't make normal chorizo so what do i

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do and then you come up with a new technique

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that's fucking cool i also had like a nice mexican

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experience recently dude like something really

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crazy happened out of nowhere because i forgot

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my cousin walter from from omagase by walt and

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ibiza I knew, but I forgot that he was coming

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to San Sebastian, and suddenly he calls like,

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hey, cousin, I'm coming tonight. And I was like,

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oh, fuck. And then suddenly, out of nowhere,

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also my friend Diego Prado, who was organizing

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like a course for the fermentation master, and

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he invited Douglas McMaster, and he calls me

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like, hey, Douglas McMaster, can you take him

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out tonight to have some pinchos in town? And

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suddenly I was like, oh, okay, like I'm taking

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these two guys out for a crazy dinner, you know,

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like out of nowhere. That's so cool, man. Yeah,

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like we had a great time. It was really fun.

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But so after that, I spent like four nights going

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out with Walter to different places. There's

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a new place that I really want to go here in

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San Sebastian that is called Echemaite. This

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guy is like a Elcano veteran, so it's like a

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very, you know, straightforward Basque produce

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-driven cuisine. So I really wanted to try that,

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but for some reason the hours didn't match, and

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I ended up going to another one that was also

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on my bucket list and I couldn't go before, which

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is Erre. This is led by a couple, O 'Brien and

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Anelore. They're both chefs. She's Basque, he's

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Mexican. And, you know, there has been this strong

00:14:22.820 --> 00:14:26.539
tandem and exchange of cultures between Mexico

00:14:26.539 --> 00:14:28.820
and the Basque country. There are Basque chefs

00:14:28.820 --> 00:14:31.120
that have restaurants in Mexico, Mexican chefs

00:14:31.120 --> 00:14:34.000
that have restaurants here. The chocolate was

00:14:34.000 --> 00:14:37.860
very important even centuries ago with the trades

00:14:37.860 --> 00:14:42.850
from the Americas. So there's a lot of cultural

00:14:42.850 --> 00:14:46.090
connection. Also, they're very focused on natural

00:14:46.090 --> 00:14:48.169
wines and they have like a nice wine selection

00:14:48.169 --> 00:14:51.590
and everything. But the focus was pretty much

00:14:51.590 --> 00:14:55.929
in the food, at least. Very Mexican. There were

00:14:55.929 --> 00:15:00.169
things that felt more like Basque or European.

00:15:00.429 --> 00:15:03.389
We had just a la carte. Dude, that's also something

00:15:03.389 --> 00:15:05.960
I wanted to comment with you. a la carte is a

00:15:05.960 --> 00:15:09.860
thing you know like why why having you know like

00:15:09.860 --> 00:15:16.139
a 150 course menu where each component has 700

00:15:16.139 --> 00:15:18.960
ingredients and 300 elaborations and where you

00:15:18.960 --> 00:15:23.620
need 1500 chefs to execute it when you can do

00:15:23.620 --> 00:15:27.220
so nice things with just so little and make something

00:15:27.220 --> 00:15:30.539
amazing and memorable you know like and it's

00:15:30.539 --> 00:15:34.919
it's enough and it's nice We always compare cooking

00:15:34.919 --> 00:15:38.559
with music. And I don't know, if you think about,

00:15:38.720 --> 00:15:42.759
for example, Seven Nation Armies from the White

00:15:42.759 --> 00:15:47.480
Stripes, you know, that's the easiest song to

00:15:47.480 --> 00:15:49.840
play and it's impactful and memorable and it

00:15:49.840 --> 00:15:53.500
generates sensations and everything. While you

00:15:53.500 --> 00:15:56.200
compare it to something really complex with hundreds

00:15:56.200 --> 00:15:58.080
of musicians doing a hundred of things at the

00:15:58.080 --> 00:15:59.940
same time. And you know, like one is not better

00:15:59.940 --> 00:16:04.259
than the other. It's just like one is more resourceful

00:16:04.259 --> 00:16:08.720
than the other, you know? But in any case, we

00:16:08.720 --> 00:16:11.279
had like an aguachile as a starter. He did something

00:16:11.279 --> 00:16:14.059
really cool with the marinade. He used kiwi,

00:16:14.139 --> 00:16:16.899
which I never saw before, but it was really punchy.

00:16:17.220 --> 00:16:20.720
So the kiwi gave like this texture to the aguachile.

00:16:21.899 --> 00:16:23.919
cleanly strained, so you won't see any seeds

00:16:23.919 --> 00:16:26.620
or anything. You will just see like a clean,

00:16:26.740 --> 00:16:30.919
green sauce. Lots of fruits in there. Super nice.

00:16:31.259 --> 00:16:38.179
Then he did a squab, like pigeon, from Aranjuez.

00:16:39.639 --> 00:16:45.039
Super beautifully executed. And we also had some...

00:16:46.110 --> 00:16:49.629
vegetables in between. And for me, the main thing

00:16:49.629 --> 00:16:51.429
is something I wanted to try because I heard

00:16:51.429 --> 00:16:54.169
about that before, that he serves the steak,

00:16:54.389 --> 00:16:58.029
the chuleta, the bone -in sirloin that you find

00:16:58.029 --> 00:17:02.159
here in the Basque country, with tortillas. You

00:17:02.159 --> 00:17:04.680
know, which is for me, for me, actually, tortillas

00:17:04.680 --> 00:17:09.720
is the DNA of Mexican food. You know, like Mexican

00:17:09.720 --> 00:17:13.000
food without tortillas is not Mexican food. You

00:17:13.000 --> 00:17:15.980
know, it's like bread for European or rice for

00:17:15.980 --> 00:17:19.039
Asians. And yeah, having these tortillas with

00:17:19.039 --> 00:17:21.500
the chuleta and it also had some salsa so that

00:17:21.500 --> 00:17:23.920
you could play around. Each bite would be different

00:17:23.920 --> 00:17:27.019
and everything. I mean, I love the way that the

00:17:27.019 --> 00:17:30.440
Basque do their grill. That is just salt. You

00:17:30.440 --> 00:17:33.819
know, like a bus cuisine is radically minimalistic

00:17:33.819 --> 00:17:37.140
and that's also beautiful. But this playfulness

00:17:37.140 --> 00:17:40.299
and changing around, you know, like for a change,

00:17:40.319 --> 00:17:42.440
it's also super fun. And I really enjoyed that

00:17:42.440 --> 00:17:44.880
place. But the highlight for me was actually

00:17:44.880 --> 00:17:48.720
at the end, I wanted to go home. I was already,

00:17:48.819 --> 00:17:51.460
I had to work the next day, but my cousin, he

00:17:51.460 --> 00:17:53.819
was on, so to say, holidays. He was traveling.

00:17:53.940 --> 00:17:57.009
He was in San Sebastian. He was like, hey. Let's

00:17:57.009 --> 00:18:00.470
ask the chef. He probably has some nice mezcals.

00:18:00.849 --> 00:18:04.650
And I was like, of course he has. Of course.

00:18:05.329 --> 00:18:08.410
There's no question that he has. So, but this

00:18:08.410 --> 00:18:11.609
was like a really insightful experience for me

00:18:11.609 --> 00:18:14.569
because there is a broader family of traditional

00:18:14.569 --> 00:18:18.569
agave and dessert distillates that are often

00:18:18.569 --> 00:18:22.180
grouped with mezcal. for their artisanal methods

00:18:22.180 --> 00:18:25.539
and terroir -driven character, but they're not

00:18:25.539 --> 00:18:28.539
mezcal. So one that we have is called Sotol,

00:18:28.680 --> 00:18:33.339
which is distilled from the plant Dacirulion

00:18:33.339 --> 00:18:35.680
or something like that. And the other is Raisilla,

00:18:35.900 --> 00:18:39.359
original agave distillate from Jalisco, which

00:18:39.359 --> 00:18:43.039
has its own DOP, its own protected denomination

00:18:43.039 --> 00:18:46.859
and distinct tradition. So the one that we have

00:18:46.859 --> 00:18:51.740
first is Sotol. Dude, like super nice. Like it

00:18:51.740 --> 00:18:57.079
had this, um, aromas of crushed herbs, raisins,

00:18:57.079 --> 00:19:01.099
stone, you know, like smoke in the, in the, in

00:19:01.099 --> 00:19:05.359
the background. Uh, very green, very botanical,

00:19:05.380 --> 00:19:08.000
beautiful. And the other one that was the absolute

00:19:08.000 --> 00:19:12.039
highlight. It's, uh, uh, Raisilla Japo is the

00:19:12.039 --> 00:19:16.380
name from Mesonte. So Raisilla Japo. was made

00:19:16.380 --> 00:19:19.519
by a guy called Happo. That was his nickname,

00:19:19.640 --> 00:19:22.819
who unfortunately passed away recently. So it's

00:19:22.819 --> 00:19:26.200
a Finnish thing. Its maker is gone, and the bottles

00:19:26.200 --> 00:19:28.619
that exist are the ones that exist. This was

00:19:28.619 --> 00:19:32.000
really mind -blowing. I remember O 'Brien, the

00:19:32.000 --> 00:19:35.259
chef, saying, give them little kisses while you

00:19:35.259 --> 00:19:38.000
drink. I was having just like a micro finger

00:19:38.000 --> 00:19:40.160
because I didn't want to drink. I had to work

00:19:40.160 --> 00:19:42.920
next day. But I would give them. And there was

00:19:42.920 --> 00:19:44.960
a lot of things going on there, you know, like

00:19:44.960 --> 00:19:48.380
the fermented agaves, soft lactic notes, herbs,

00:19:48.799 --> 00:19:52.740
just some smoke. It was really alive. It would

00:19:52.740 --> 00:19:55.240
really transport you to somewhere else. You know,

00:19:55.259 --> 00:19:58.299
it reminded me of some, I remember in New York

00:19:58.299 --> 00:20:02.119
having some really nice mezcals that this underground

00:20:02.119 --> 00:20:04.279
things that come in a plastic bottle, like in

00:20:04.279 --> 00:20:06.180
a Coca -Cola bottle full of booze, you know,

00:20:06.220 --> 00:20:11.490
like, like it feels like clandestine. It reminds

00:20:11.490 --> 00:20:14.609
me of that. Incredible. Like if you can find

00:20:14.609 --> 00:20:19.670
that, get a bottle while they still exist. That

00:20:19.670 --> 00:20:22.809
sounds amazing. I think mezcal as like the umbrella

00:20:22.809 --> 00:20:25.789
term for distilled agave drinks that are not

00:20:25.789 --> 00:20:28.869
tequila, right? It's super underrated and there's

00:20:28.869 --> 00:20:31.390
so much going on. It's really beautiful. They're

00:20:31.390 --> 00:20:33.950
really, really beautiful, beautiful drinks. Like

00:20:33.950 --> 00:20:35.930
if you think of tequila and you think of this

00:20:35.930 --> 00:20:38.970
like very strong, very pungent kind of thing,

00:20:39.130 --> 00:20:43.019
mezcal. Mezcal is very varied. Like, you can't

00:20:43.019 --> 00:20:44.940
generalize what mezcal tastes like. You have,

00:20:45.000 --> 00:20:47.319
like, very sharp, very strong. They say herbal.

00:20:47.359 --> 00:20:49.880
You have smoky. You have sweet. You have so much

00:20:49.880 --> 00:20:52.319
going on. It's very, very complex. And I love

00:20:52.319 --> 00:20:54.000
what you say, like, with the chuleta and the

00:20:54.000 --> 00:20:55.880
tortillas. That's exactly what we did in the

00:20:55.880 --> 00:20:58.759
pop -up also as a main course. We had this, like,

00:20:58.779 --> 00:21:02.980
bone -in wagyu ribeye steak. I saw the videos.

00:21:04.099 --> 00:21:06.880
Was it Brandon, the guy cutting the chuletas?

00:21:07.390 --> 00:21:10.650
Yes, the Shaolin monk Brandon. Yeah, absolutely.

00:21:10.930 --> 00:21:13.950
With laser sharp focus. You could tell that guy

00:21:13.950 --> 00:21:17.309
is a machine just from seeing him work. And yeah,

00:21:17.349 --> 00:21:19.170
it was so fun, you know. I mean, tortillas in

00:21:19.170 --> 00:21:21.670
itself, right? Good quality tortillas. It's like,

00:21:21.789 --> 00:21:24.869
I like that you compared it to rice in Asian

00:21:24.869 --> 00:21:26.289
cooking because I remember when I was living

00:21:26.289 --> 00:21:28.720
in Japan. And you have this, like you get this

00:21:28.720 --> 00:21:31.819
appreciation for good rice. Even now today, when

00:21:31.819 --> 00:21:35.700
I smell freshly made steamed white rice, like

00:21:35.700 --> 00:21:38.279
I start like, like I start getting hungry. Like

00:21:38.279 --> 00:21:40.519
my mouth starts to salivate. I'm like, I'm like

00:21:40.519 --> 00:21:43.359
wires to, to want that, you know? And it's the

00:21:43.359 --> 00:21:45.000
same with tortillas. When I went to Interest,

00:21:45.000 --> 00:21:46.880
they, they nixtamalized the corn themselves.

00:21:47.019 --> 00:21:49.839
You know, they brought Molino from Mexico. They

00:21:49.839 --> 00:21:52.579
import the dried corn. They do the nixtamalization

00:21:52.579 --> 00:21:54.500
there. They make the tortillas fresh every day.

00:21:55.180 --> 00:21:57.880
And so you walk in and you smell the nixtamal.

00:21:58.059 --> 00:22:00.640
It's so beautiful. It's such a unique aroma.

00:22:00.859 --> 00:22:03.019
Like you cannot, I don't think you can compare

00:22:03.019 --> 00:22:05.559
it to anything. So for those who don't know,

00:22:05.740 --> 00:22:08.900
nixtamal is basically maize corn that has been

00:22:08.900 --> 00:22:11.700
soaked in and cooked in an alkaline solution,

00:22:11.940 --> 00:22:15.720
traditionally water with lime. So calcium hydroxide,

00:22:15.880 --> 00:22:19.440
which loosens the whole, improves nutrition and

00:22:19.440 --> 00:22:22.119
allows it to be ground into masa for tortillas

00:22:22.119 --> 00:22:23.900
and other dishes. And it's something that...

00:22:24.730 --> 00:22:26.849
It's traditional in Mexico, but you will see

00:22:26.849 --> 00:22:30.190
that also in other cultures all over Latin America.

00:22:30.529 --> 00:22:33.470
And it's so wonderful. You have freshly made,

00:22:33.529 --> 00:22:36.609
good quality tortillas. A good piece of meat.

00:22:36.670 --> 00:22:37.970
And then you have a couple of condiments. You

00:22:37.970 --> 00:22:40.089
know, we did like a, I think we did like a shiso

00:22:40.089 --> 00:22:43.569
jalapeño salsa verde. And we did a mole seco

00:22:43.569 --> 00:22:47.029
with like lots of spices and like an onion salad.

00:22:47.150 --> 00:22:50.210
So onions like quickly sauteed, but sort of still

00:22:50.210 --> 00:22:52.690
crunchy. De -glazed with a little bit of maggi.

00:22:53.579 --> 00:22:57.359
and then like molle secco and then you just take

00:22:57.359 --> 00:22:59.420
like a slice of beef a little bit of salsa a

00:22:59.420 --> 00:23:01.900
little bit of this like onion it's absolutely

00:23:01.900 --> 00:23:04.279
amazing another thing that we did as we were

00:23:04.279 --> 00:23:06.700
talking about molle earlier which was one of

00:23:06.700 --> 00:23:09.119
my favorite dishes of the night we really wanted

00:23:09.119 --> 00:23:12.140
to do like a lobster dish and so we took the

00:23:12.140 --> 00:23:14.900
lobster we blanched it but keeping it raw we

00:23:14.900 --> 00:23:17.279
took it out and then we just like popped it into

00:23:17.279 --> 00:23:20.380
melted wagyu beef fat and just poached it in

00:23:20.380 --> 00:23:23.130
the beef fat And then afterwards, where it was

00:23:23.130 --> 00:23:26.109
just like super glazy, we took it out, we put

00:23:26.109 --> 00:23:28.049
it on the grill under like a little bit of like

00:23:28.049 --> 00:23:30.950
smoking wood. So just like smoked it on the wood

00:23:30.950 --> 00:23:33.450
a little bit, finished it on the grill. And then

00:23:33.450 --> 00:23:36.690
we served that with a mole made from peanuts,

00:23:36.970 --> 00:23:40.450
peanut mole, like a really thick paste, you know.

00:23:41.190 --> 00:23:45.809
And we did a little salad of like persimmon with

00:23:45.809 --> 00:23:48.829
like ginger, spring onions, shiso. They're very

00:23:48.829 --> 00:23:52.039
fresh. just like a dressing made from like confit

00:23:52.039 --> 00:23:54.240
spring onions ginger and shio kombu which is

00:23:54.240 --> 00:23:58.559
salted kelp and like this like confit meaty smoky

00:23:58.559 --> 00:24:00.880
lobster with the peanut mole and like the fresh

00:24:00.880 --> 00:24:04.700
salad and like it didn't really make sense like

00:24:04.700 --> 00:24:06.599
is it mexican is it asian like what is it you

00:24:06.599 --> 00:24:08.819
know but it is fucking amazing it's so delicious

00:24:08.819 --> 00:24:11.599
i love it when people can cook freely like this

00:24:11.599 --> 00:24:15.859
you know Yeah, lime, not the citrus fruit. Lime,

00:24:15.900 --> 00:24:18.720
like, you know, like often you... The one that

00:24:18.720 --> 00:24:21.519
burns your skin if you touch it. Exactly, the

00:24:21.519 --> 00:24:25.000
alkaline thing. Like often the old, like ashes

00:24:25.000 --> 00:24:27.240
were used and stuff like that. Traditionally,

00:24:27.400 --> 00:24:30.339
as far as I know. Before, we were talking about

00:24:30.339 --> 00:24:35.740
adapting cuisine to other audiences. And this

00:24:35.740 --> 00:24:38.460
was also funny because I was talking with Walter.

00:24:39.049 --> 00:24:42.390
By the way, go check his Instagram, omakase,

00:24:42.549 --> 00:24:45.289
by Walt. He has a Michelin star in Ibiza, and

00:24:45.289 --> 00:24:48.430
he does, like, super traditional sushi. We have

00:24:48.430 --> 00:24:50.029
an episode with him. You can check it out as

00:24:50.029 --> 00:24:55.690
well. So I asked him because I got, after the

00:24:55.690 --> 00:24:58.369
enzyme episode, you know, like, I got really

00:24:58.369 --> 00:25:02.569
curious about it, and I bought some enzymes powdered.

00:25:02.730 --> 00:25:06.089
You know, like, I got some proteases and other

00:25:06.089 --> 00:25:10.420
things. And just like back in the days, you know,

00:25:10.500 --> 00:25:13.420
when you would have like these powders of agar

00:25:13.420 --> 00:25:16.059
or whatever that, you know, they would have like

00:25:16.059 --> 00:25:20.559
this standard recipes in the, you know, in the

00:25:20.559 --> 00:25:23.819
package that would say, yeah, you can do vegan

00:25:23.819 --> 00:25:26.619
gelatin or whatever. And here's a recipe for

00:25:26.619 --> 00:25:29.359
orange vegan gelatin or, you know, like this

00:25:29.359 --> 00:25:31.460
kind of thing. The same thing is now with this,

00:25:31.500 --> 00:25:36.150
like more innovative products to use today. And

00:25:36.150 --> 00:25:38.309
the example they would give you is to do a liquid

00:25:38.309 --> 00:25:42.390
Gilda, like the Gilda, you know, the anchovy,

00:25:42.529 --> 00:25:49.190
piparra, olive skewer. Basically to blend it,

00:25:49.369 --> 00:25:53.150
add some protease and accelerate the process

00:25:53.150 --> 00:25:55.410
that turns everything into liquid. And then you

00:25:55.410 --> 00:25:58.809
would have like this, they call it Gilda garum.

00:25:59.549 --> 00:26:01.670
So I was thinking like, wow, this is really cool.

00:26:01.809 --> 00:26:04.609
Like you can do that, like basically like a...

00:26:05.359 --> 00:26:08.000
An accelerated garum, you know, like you get

00:26:08.000 --> 00:26:11.420
anchovies, you blend them, you add some of this

00:26:11.420 --> 00:26:13.819
powder, you wait a couple of hours and suddenly

00:26:13.819 --> 00:26:15.839
everything is liquid and you have this intense

00:26:15.839 --> 00:26:20.480
anchovy sauce liquid, you know, like this quick

00:26:20.480 --> 00:26:23.910
garum, so to say. That's pretty cool. I haven't

00:26:23.910 --> 00:26:27.630
done that yet. I haven't had the time, but I

00:26:27.630 --> 00:26:29.450
definitely want to do that. I love cooking with

00:26:29.450 --> 00:26:31.970
Garum. I just add drops of Garum to whatever

00:26:31.970 --> 00:26:35.390
you're doing and being able to do it like this.

00:26:35.470 --> 00:26:37.549
I think it's quite interesting. I wouldn't say

00:26:37.549 --> 00:26:39.970
it's a fake Garum. I would say it's an accelerated

00:26:39.970 --> 00:26:42.150
Garum. It's just like a different way to do it.

00:26:42.630 --> 00:26:48.269
So I was talking about this with Walter and he

00:26:48.269 --> 00:26:51.880
was like, no, no, no, no, no. I'm super... traditional

00:26:51.880 --> 00:26:53.980
japanese you know like i never go out of the

00:26:53.980 --> 00:26:57.299
frame of and i was like but no can't you just

00:26:57.299 --> 00:26:59.619
do that and you know like with a brush put it

00:26:59.619 --> 00:27:02.319
on top of a specific no no no japanese don't

00:27:02.319 --> 00:27:07.099
do that no no no i would do that i respect that

00:27:07.099 --> 00:27:10.980
you know i love his ultra respectful approach

00:27:10.980 --> 00:27:15.400
just you know like keeping the frame inside the

00:27:15.400 --> 00:27:18.700
frame I like that as well, you know, like I'm

00:27:18.700 --> 00:27:22.119
quite the opposite. I like to go out of the frame

00:27:22.119 --> 00:27:28.259
every time I can. 100%. But yeah, I also think

00:27:28.259 --> 00:27:30.980
that's super interesting. You know, like I've

00:27:30.980 --> 00:27:35.599
been discussing recently because, well, this

00:27:35.599 --> 00:27:40.559
year I will be dynamizing the Chef's Innovation.

00:27:41.720 --> 00:27:44.440
community at Basque Culinary Center. So we'll

00:27:44.440 --> 00:27:47.740
be organizing some content and some events and

00:27:47.740 --> 00:27:51.900
some things. And one of the things that we were

00:27:51.900 --> 00:27:57.240
discussing is what tensions are there in innovation.

00:27:57.660 --> 00:28:02.220
You know, like, because this makes it like an

00:28:02.220 --> 00:28:05.279
interesting ground for discussion. Like a very

00:28:05.279 --> 00:28:08.000
obvious tension is innovation versus tradition,

00:28:08.259 --> 00:28:10.039
which is what we're just talking about right

00:28:10.039 --> 00:28:12.769
now. You know, like... And putting, for example,

00:28:12.849 --> 00:28:16.569
someone like Walter to discuss with someone like

00:28:16.569 --> 00:28:20.309
Morimoto, right? Masaharu Morimoto. Yes. You

00:28:20.309 --> 00:28:22.609
know, which is quite the opposite. It's quite

00:28:22.609 --> 00:28:27.269
the disruptive sushi, right? And having that

00:28:27.269 --> 00:28:31.349
discussion and at the end of the day, I think

00:28:31.349 --> 00:28:33.809
even the super traditional chef, they also like

00:28:33.809 --> 00:28:38.319
the super innovative stuff. But just defending

00:28:38.319 --> 00:28:41.660
one position versus the other just generates

00:28:41.660 --> 00:28:45.240
new questions and new interesting ways on how

00:28:45.240 --> 00:28:50.900
to find new breaches and new paths to find new

00:28:50.900 --> 00:28:55.279
ways to innovate, to create new things. Or another

00:28:55.279 --> 00:29:01.640
example could be being territory -driven. grounded

00:29:01.640 --> 00:29:05.940
and anchored versus like a more global approach

00:29:05.940 --> 00:29:09.400
and you know like using whatever combo in dubai

00:29:09.400 --> 00:29:11.440
for example you know like our things are that

00:29:11.440 --> 00:29:15.839
don't grow there but that are still super interesting

00:29:15.839 --> 00:29:18.660
and why not you know like but i think that are

00:29:18.660 --> 00:29:20.759
different approaches and they feed each other

00:29:20.759 --> 00:29:23.680
and they can nourish each other but the the discussion

00:29:23.680 --> 00:29:27.079
itself is super interesting yeah absolutely absolutely

00:29:27.079 --> 00:29:30.619
it's like i think it's kind of depending on I

00:29:30.619 --> 00:29:32.279
think it's important to appreciate both sides,

00:29:32.359 --> 00:29:34.740
you know. I definitely always appreciate, unlike

00:29:34.740 --> 00:29:38.930
you, I... go out of the frame more often than

00:29:38.930 --> 00:29:41.309
not but i've always really appreciated people

00:29:41.309 --> 00:29:44.210
like admired people also who are like very they

00:29:44.210 --> 00:29:47.009
have their thing and they get really deep into

00:29:47.009 --> 00:29:50.650
it you know and also like if they if they stick

00:29:50.650 --> 00:29:53.230
to like their world what they've chosen for themselves

00:29:53.230 --> 00:29:55.569
like they will delve much deeper into it than

00:29:55.569 --> 00:29:58.009
i ever will i don't know with whether i'm just

00:29:58.009 --> 00:30:00.289
a little bit too autistic to do that like i am

00:30:00.289 --> 00:30:03.210
like all over the place i remember in japan like

00:30:03.210 --> 00:30:06.299
you know like it's very common that For example,

00:30:06.299 --> 00:30:09.480
here you go to Segovia or whatever, where they're

00:30:09.480 --> 00:30:12.299
cooking like charcoal ovens, where they do like

00:30:12.299 --> 00:30:14.240
a whole piece of meat and they come outside and

00:30:14.240 --> 00:30:16.559
they show you like the piece of whatever, of

00:30:16.559 --> 00:30:18.680
a lamb or a suckling pig. And everybody's like,

00:30:18.839 --> 00:30:22.079
whoa. And you would see the same thing in Japan,

00:30:22.140 --> 00:30:24.900
but they come with a pot and they open it and

00:30:24.900 --> 00:30:27.880
there is rice. And everybody's like, oh. And

00:30:27.880 --> 00:30:30.839
I feel so extremely ignorant. being there and

00:30:30.839 --> 00:30:33.460
not getting it, you know, like, because I do

00:30:33.460 --> 00:30:35.839
appreciate rice, you know, like, and I do see

00:30:35.839 --> 00:30:38.420
that's beautiful and everything, but I'm not

00:30:38.420 --> 00:30:42.160
striped by it. And there genuinely are. And that's,

00:30:42.160 --> 00:30:44.400
that's one of those things I, as you were saying,

00:30:44.500 --> 00:30:47.240
like being someone who sticks into a tradition

00:30:47.240 --> 00:30:50.079
and goes all the way through. If you're doing

00:30:50.079 --> 00:30:53.099
sushi rice every day for the last 30 years, you

00:30:53.099 --> 00:30:57.150
get a. a depth and an understanding uh there

00:30:57.150 --> 00:31:01.009
that that we will never understand as as normal

00:31:01.009 --> 00:31:04.990
mortals like both has its like its ups and downs

00:31:04.990 --> 00:31:08.549
you know but i think appreciating both sides

00:31:08.549 --> 00:31:12.630
and having an um open discussion for like about

00:31:12.630 --> 00:31:15.369
it you know and just looking at everything from

00:31:15.369 --> 00:31:18.890
a neutral perspective and not condemning either

00:31:18.890 --> 00:31:21.190
one just being like oh this is the way no this

00:31:21.190 --> 00:31:24.359
is the way you know it gives you a lot of insight.

00:31:24.599 --> 00:31:26.200
It's what we talked about the other day. It's

00:31:26.200 --> 00:31:28.099
kind of like if you just don't take it so seriously

00:31:28.099 --> 00:31:32.240
and you listen to somebody with a different perspective

00:31:32.240 --> 00:31:35.920
than your own open -mindedly, you will always,

00:31:35.980 --> 00:31:37.900
pretty much always take something away from it.
