WEBVTT

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Hi, everyone. Welcome to Pot Luck Food Talks,

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the show where we talk about food and kitchen

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from a cooked perspective. We're recording live

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from the North Pole. My name is Eric the Viking,

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and I'm here with Phil the Power Tailor. Today,

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we're diving into jingle bells, red -nosed reindeer

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with questionable allergies, and Christianity's

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most cherished evening. You know, the one that

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smells like cinnamon and last -minute decisions.

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But first... You're listening to Heritage Radio

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Network. So, Phil, what's your most memorable

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Christmas service in a restaurant? You know,

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I feel like I blanked out most Christmas services

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that I've had. Just out of sheer traumatic...

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experience um i feel like most because i've worked

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a few christmases you know like quite a few in

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my life i can barely remember any of them because

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why is it that the christmas service is always

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one of the fucking worst of the year it should

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be so easy everybody comes in almost at the same

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time pretty much everybody usually gets the same

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menu ideally if you're smart about it So, like,

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it should just be fucking nice. You're cooking

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fucking beef. You're cooking scallop. You're

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cooking, you're making, you're dolloping caviar

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on top of dishes. It should be fucking nice.

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Yet it never is. I also have, like, bad memories

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about Christmas services in kitchens. I remember

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one place where I was a head chef. Like, there

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was a special menu for the evening. And then

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in the middle of rush hour, you know, the owner

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walked in. And for some reason, I didn't have

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the, you know, like, at that time. the guts just

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to tell her to fuck off and she walked in and

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started like i'm going to help because she started

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like plating and messing everything you know

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like everything went to hell like all the preparation

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everything like was completely fucked up i really

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couldn't take it you know like i really i was

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really really upset for a long while for that

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you know like yeah absolutely because there was

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a lot of thinking and preparation and everything

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just to you know just to walk into the most in

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the most important moment and screw it up you

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know like and i also remember one in a very like

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top level restaurant where nobody was happy about

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being there you know like every and there was

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this mood of not being like everybody wanted

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just to be somewhere else of course it's christmas

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they made us uh walk through the dining rooms

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you know with our tops or chef's hats and it

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was really a shame walk i totally get that i

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totally get that you're like i'm the idiot who's

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here because of my poor life choices while you

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guys are enjoying yourself here look at me Yeah,

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exactly. I felt like, I don't know, like in a

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Roman circus being, you know, exhibited to the

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Roman aristocracy. You know, Christmas is one

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of those days where you make good business in

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a restaurant. I am of the opinion that you should

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just fucking close for Christmas. You know, the

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year is long. When are you going to close? Right?

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Like, which holidays are you like, oh, I'm not

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going to open? There's none, really. There's

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no, you're not going to say like, oh, I'm not

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going to open today. New Year's Eve. Fine. Fuck

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that. Fuck New Year's Eve. Nobody cares. But

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Christmas? There's a lot of people. I know a

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lot of people that think exactly the other way

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around. Yeah? Really? No, not me. I think it's

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because we're German. Because, you know, we,

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I think the German Christmas is taken more seriously

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than other Christmases. You know, like. Yes,

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I guess so. I have that feeling. Like, I mean,

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in Venezuela? I think if you ask, nine out of

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ten people will tell you New Year's Eve is more

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important than Christmas. Oh, really? Yeah. I

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think it's a very common thing. I mean, and here

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in Spain, they don't give a shit about Christmas.

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The thing here is the Holy Kings, 6th of January,

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you know? Yeah, I mean, for me, it's kind of

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like, you know, I don't mind being in a restaurant

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at New Year's Eve because, I mean, first of all,

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I don't give a shit about New Year's Eve. I don't

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give a shit about... going out and getting pissed

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and watching some fireworks i really i couldn't

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care less but what i do care about is spending

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time with my family like this is the thing you

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know it's kind of like christmas is like it's

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like the celebration of like togetherness you

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know and like hey we all come together it's very

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sort of mindful and very peaceful and i mean

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not for everybody I suppose. Christmas also is

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often a stage for family drama and chaos. Ideally,

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in my mind, it's that, you know, it's like we

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come together, we sit down, we shut the outside

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world out for just a night. We're grateful for

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being here together and we just appreciate. We're

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giving each other presents and sort of like,

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hey, I got this for you, you know, because I

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love you. You open your own press. It's sort

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of like, oh, you got this for me because you

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love me. That's so nice, you know? And then the

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bubble bursts and you're in the kitchen and you

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realize that this is all what you've been imagining

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the whole time. And actually all the tickets

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are away at the same time. Front of house is

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completely understaffed and unorganized because

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nobody had a fucking briefing. And you need to

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fire the main course because the tenderloin is

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going to overcook. And you realize that this

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has all just been a really wonderful dream. You're

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back in your horrible reality. That's what cooking

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Christmas service is for me. I thought about

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a game to play today. Yes, tell me. The game

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is we're going to write a menu, a Christmas menu,

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five courses. We're cooking for Juan Mari Arzak.

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Vegans. Juan Mari Arzak and his 25 -year -old

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vegan girlfriend. Okay, okay. I like that. Very

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close to reality. The Amish bush, first course.

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What would you say? What would you start with?

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Are we talking at home or in a restaurant? Home.

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You're cooking yourself. Maybe someone's helping

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you, but that's it. Okay, if I'm cooking at home,

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I would start with buying very nice potato chips.

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Right? Bought, not self -made. Fuck that. Potato

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chips. I would make some sour cream that's seasoned

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with a lot of vinegar, a lot of salt, a lot of

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black pepper, some chives, and then a nice big

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tin of caviar on the side. You take the potato

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chips, you dip it in the sour cream, you put

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some caviar on top, you eat it. Okay. And also

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some nice breakfast radishes with some whipped

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salted French butter on the side for you to dip

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inside. You didn't thought about the vegan girlfriend?

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She can eat the radishes. Okay. Be grateful for

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the radish. That's the only course you'll have

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with me. By the way, something I forgot asking

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you about the... Have you ever done anything

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with carrot greens? Well, you know, carrot greens,

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man. I feel like, you know, I love the idea of

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using carrot greens to make a pesto, to make

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a gremolata, whatever it is, to make a fucking

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puree, to make a green oil. I really like the

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idea. The thing is that it's always shit. Exactly.

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I have the same, you know, like I'm like, oh

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yeah, I'm so hippie and sustainable and I will,

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you know, cut it and eat it into a salad. And

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I feel like I'm literally eating grass, you know,

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like a cow. Dirt. Yeah. It's like, I love the

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idea, you know, and like, but it's just always

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fucking horrible. I don't know if there's like,

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dear listener, if you have a carrot green recipe

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that is actually good. Please send it to us,

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and we'll feature you. We'll give you a little

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shout -out. Not that you care, but... Please

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leave it here in the comments, so we can have

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a discussion here in the comments section about

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carrot greens. What would you do with it? Why

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is it so difficult? I guess fermentation can

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maybe... Why is it difficult? Because it has

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this extreme bitterness and extreme grassy profile,

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right? Yeah, it's just, it tastes like carrot,

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but in a very unpleasant way, I would say, you

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know, like it's, I don't know, you know, if you

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take a carrot green leaf and you rub it between

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your fingers and you smell it, you think to yourself,

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oh, that doesn't smell too bad. Like I could.

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do something with this, but then everything you

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make with it is just too much. It's too green.

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It's too carrot -y, but also it has this like

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weird texture. It's like, it's tough. Nah, man.

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And I'm just not a fan. I mean, I don't know.

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Maybe you could blanch it and this and that and

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blah. Maybe you could make a powder of it and

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it would be okay. But like. An amuse -bouche

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for me, I would do something with crab, you know,

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maybe like a, like a crab salad, something like

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that. the whole crab roasted in the oven then

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broken and flesh taken out making a salad with

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maybe not too tropical because it's christmas

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because my first idea would be like something

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like i don't know avocado and grapefruit but

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maybe something milder and yeah with those potato

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chips i could add it to the potato chip party

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if you allow me i love that you can take a little

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bit of the the crab and put it on a potato chip

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and just like munch it it's amazing super nice

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So, starter, first course, soup, salad, something

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unexpected. No soup for me. I mean, if I was

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in a restaurant, I would probably send out, you

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know, you know what I would wish that would make

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a comeback? Little espresso cups of foamy soup.

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I was thinking something like, I would do exactly

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that, a celeriac potato truffle. There you go.

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That's exactly what I, that's exactly what I

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was thinking. Also like a chestnut thing or something,

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but very light, very velvety, like little foamed

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up, you know, super nice. And you slurp it. It's

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buttery. It's warm. It's satisfying. Nothing

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better in life. Well, first course, you know

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what I really like? Very good quality smoked

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eel. Okay. Good quality smoked eel. Forger. The

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eel. tempered right so it's like a little bit

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warm the fat starts melting a little bit you

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know and then a really really bright cherry compote

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on the side with some parker house rolls you

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know parker house rolls no you know the bread

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from saison okay um Imagine like a Hokkaido milk

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bread and you make like little balls and you

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make them into like a, into like a shape in a,

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in a round thing, like a monkey bread, you know,

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monkey bread where you have like different pieces

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and you can like pull it apart. Okay. Yeah, I

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get it. Yeah. Something like that so that you

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can just kind of like, you know, tear it. You

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have like warm, fluffy bread, you know, something

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that I've been thinking about a lot is also,

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and I can't believe I'm saying this, but I'm

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kind of over sour though. If I was to open a

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restaurant tomorrow, I wouldn't put like a piece

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of toasted sourdough. Okay. You know what? I'm

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bullshitting. I love sourdough. Sourdough is

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amazing. But what I would like to see more in

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restaurants is away from the sort of like crusty

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sourdough bread, just embrace the soft bread

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a little bit more. You know, like if I get like

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a fluffy roll like that, that's not too sweet,

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freshly baked, I'm going to be so happy. And

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you take it, it's pillowy, it's doughy, it's

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bouncy. You know, like those videos that you

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see out of Japan where you're sort of like, what

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the fuck is that? It's like a little Kirby, Kirby

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bread. um you tear it open it's like feathery

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inside and white like give me a break with all

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the sort of like ancient grain whole wheat thing

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i yeah like i'm thinking about something like

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that yeah like a like a toast with foie gras

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yeah like a cherry compote would be nice and

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maybe also some chestnuts there somewhere like

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a spread on the toast under the foie gras Yeah,

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100%. I mean, you can't go wrong with that. It's

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so nice. I would add some like the real balsamic

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kind of, you know, like balsamic vinegars, but

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like the real expensive ones to that compote

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to add some acidity. Yes, very nice. And you

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know what else? On the side of that plate, a

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soaked prune, soaked in tea and ammonia. Just

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like a really fatty, yeah, like a really fat,

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soaky, juicy, deep prune. Armagnac. Yes. Armagnac?

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Okay, okay, okay, okay, okay. Phil, do you recommend

00:12:37.929 --> 00:12:41.409
podcasts to your friends? All the time. The best

00:12:41.409 --> 00:12:43.570
way of showing friends that you care is recommending

00:12:43.570 --> 00:12:46.649
a great podcast to listen to. I agree. If you're

00:12:46.649 --> 00:12:49.289
listening right now, you should show your love

00:12:49.289 --> 00:12:52.350
by recommending a show to all your best friends.

00:12:52.490 --> 00:12:55.730
It will make them happy. It will make us happy.

00:12:55.950 --> 00:12:58.750
PopLock Food Talks. Tell your friends. It will

00:12:58.750 --> 00:13:03.509
make the world a better place. A main course.

00:13:04.370 --> 00:13:06.230
Main course can be a lot of things, you know.

00:13:06.600 --> 00:13:10.559
So for me, traditional roast duck or roast goose.

00:13:10.740 --> 00:13:13.279
Yeah, or game, you know, like deer, something

00:13:13.279 --> 00:13:15.759
like that. You know, like a little Rudolph. A

00:13:15.759 --> 00:13:17.820
little Rudolph, yeah. It's very, very nice, you

00:13:17.820 --> 00:13:22.340
know, like a roast. Really, really good is also

00:13:22.340 --> 00:13:26.000
a Wellington. A well -made Wellington for Christmas

00:13:26.000 --> 00:13:30.039
is phenomenal, right? But it takes a lot of work

00:13:30.039 --> 00:13:33.120
if you're not in practice of like making it.

00:13:33.200 --> 00:13:34.679
Like if you have practice making it, it's still

00:13:34.679 --> 00:13:36.399
a lot of work, but you can kind of smash it out.

00:13:36.500 --> 00:13:38.580
You know, you sear it the day before, you smear

00:13:38.580 --> 00:13:41.019
it, you make the faras, like easy peasy, you

00:13:41.019 --> 00:13:42.740
wrap it in bacon and blah, you make a pancake

00:13:42.740 --> 00:13:45.059
if you want to or not. And you just wrap it tightly,

00:13:45.279 --> 00:13:47.240
make a torchon, you just put it in the fridge,

00:13:47.259 --> 00:13:48.840
it's done for the next morning. And then the

00:13:48.840 --> 00:13:50.919
next day you just basically take it out, wrap

00:13:50.919 --> 00:13:53.539
it, puff pastry, glaze it, and it's ready to

00:13:53.539 --> 00:13:56.799
go. It's actually not that much work. I also

00:13:56.799 --> 00:13:59.240
really like doing a whole fish. A whole fish.

00:13:59.299 --> 00:14:01.840
And I like to like butterfly it. I like to debone

00:14:01.840 --> 00:14:04.100
it completely so that you can just eat it from

00:14:04.100 --> 00:14:06.240
the head to the tail without worrying about it.

00:14:06.279 --> 00:14:08.940
You can stuff it, you can do whatever. But you

00:14:08.940 --> 00:14:12.659
know, one of my, not my dishes, but the dishes

00:14:12.659 --> 00:14:16.080
that I like to make, which I think is very underrated,

00:14:16.080 --> 00:14:19.500
but it needs to be made extremely well. Otherwise

00:14:19.500 --> 00:14:21.639
it's super underwhelming, is a chicken blanket.

00:14:22.779 --> 00:14:25.279
You get a really, really good chicken, but it

00:14:25.279 --> 00:14:27.100
has to be the best chicken that you can find.

00:14:27.720 --> 00:14:30.740
You poach it until it's super juicy, you know,

00:14:30.759 --> 00:14:32.840
like a Cantonese chicken. You take it out. You

00:14:32.840 --> 00:14:35.879
make a super intense stock, like a super clear.

00:14:35.960 --> 00:14:38.019
It needs to be like a golden chicken consomme.

00:14:38.600 --> 00:14:41.820
You make, you know, the roux. You make the sauce.

00:14:41.960 --> 00:14:44.539
You add extremely good quality cream fresh to

00:14:44.539 --> 00:14:48.019
it. You season that all. Salt, pepper, whatever.

00:14:48.500 --> 00:14:51.139
Lemon juice, fresh lemon juice at the end. And

00:14:51.139 --> 00:14:53.139
then on the side, you make a beautiful medley

00:14:53.139 --> 00:14:56.919
of vegetables, you know. carrots peas sugar snap

00:14:56.919 --> 00:14:59.100
peas you know whatever you have some parsnips

00:14:59.100 --> 00:15:02.480
maybe maybe even some like blanched sort of like

00:15:02.480 --> 00:15:04.820
tornado potato pieces just like very beautifully

00:15:04.820 --> 00:15:06.860
glazed and then at the end you put the chicken

00:15:06.860 --> 00:15:09.320
back into the sauce you put fresh herbs on top

00:15:09.320 --> 00:15:11.500
maybe even some lemon segments with the skin

00:15:11.500 --> 00:15:13.500
everything you know just like thin slices of

00:15:13.500 --> 00:15:16.559
like quarter lemons put that on top and if you

00:15:16.559 --> 00:15:18.379
do that right it's one of the most luxurious

00:15:19.360 --> 00:15:22.299
and most satisfying dishes ever. It's fucking

00:15:22.299 --> 00:15:25.000
amazing. But you need to, like, you can't compromise

00:15:25.000 --> 00:15:27.659
on any step. You have to get the best ingredients,

00:15:27.799 --> 00:15:29.720
the best chicken, the best cream fresh. You have

00:15:29.720 --> 00:15:31.620
to get really good vegetables. You have to cook

00:15:31.620 --> 00:15:34.120
the chicken really beautifully and gently to

00:15:34.120 --> 00:15:36.000
get this intense stock and to keep the chicken

00:15:36.000 --> 00:15:39.519
juicy. But it's super simple, right? And if you

00:15:39.519 --> 00:15:42.000
know how to do it, it's very, very easy. And

00:15:42.000 --> 00:15:44.399
it's very low effort, which I think is an underrated

00:15:44.399 --> 00:15:46.960
aspect in cooking for Christmas also, because

00:15:46.960 --> 00:15:49.379
if you have... You know, it used to be the moms

00:15:49.379 --> 00:15:52.139
stuck in the kitchen in Christmas. Now it's us.

00:15:52.240 --> 00:15:54.200
And we get out and we're sort of like, you know,

00:15:54.240 --> 00:15:56.320
like rings under our eyes. We've been cooking

00:15:56.320 --> 00:15:58.700
for two days. We just want a fucking glass of

00:15:58.700 --> 00:16:01.919
wine. And we're done. We're done with the fucking

00:16:01.919 --> 00:16:05.259
day. We get to the table. All the food's already

00:16:05.259 --> 00:16:10.220
half eaten. We're like, fuck. You know, on the

00:16:10.220 --> 00:16:13.120
last episode we were, I was just about to say

00:16:13.120 --> 00:16:15.320
something, but I said, I'll save it for the Christmas

00:16:15.320 --> 00:16:18.539
episode about how important it is to describe

00:16:18.539 --> 00:16:22.460
stuff in a certain way and that the predisposition

00:16:22.460 --> 00:16:26.500
and the anticipation towards what you're going

00:16:26.500 --> 00:16:29.100
to eat, it really plays a role, you know, like

00:16:29.100 --> 00:16:34.509
on my food tours, I always, it's usually. cock

00:16:34.509 --> 00:16:37.389
planche you know i choose i decide we're having

00:16:37.389 --> 00:16:40.309
this here and this that and i don't even ask

00:16:40.309 --> 00:16:42.509
i ask at the beginning if they have any restrictions

00:16:42.509 --> 00:16:45.289
and i go you know like here we're having this

00:16:45.289 --> 00:16:49.509
year also with the drinks but i learned to ask

00:16:49.509 --> 00:16:53.610
just with a specific drink i i have at the very

00:16:53.610 --> 00:16:57.580
end a glass of pacharan oh yeah And I went through

00:16:57.580 --> 00:17:00.980
many descriptions of Pacharan. You know, it would

00:17:00.980 --> 00:17:03.440
be like, yeah, it's slow berries. And then people

00:17:03.440 --> 00:17:05.940
would be like, oh, so it's like a slow gin. And

00:17:05.940 --> 00:17:08.079
I'm like, no, it's the same ingredient, but it's

00:17:08.079 --> 00:17:11.599
something completely else. So both people that

00:17:11.599 --> 00:17:13.640
like it and people that don't like it at all,

00:17:13.680 --> 00:17:16.720
they say it tastes like cough syrup. And I think

00:17:16.720 --> 00:17:18.720
that's kind of like an accurate description.

00:17:18.819 --> 00:17:21.380
Fair enough, yeah. But yeah, like I would have

00:17:21.380 --> 00:17:25.059
this, you know, I'm always observing if people

00:17:25.059 --> 00:17:27.500
are finishing or not, because it's a way to measure

00:17:27.500 --> 00:17:30.539
if they're full or not, or if they're liking

00:17:30.539 --> 00:17:33.980
it or not, right? And interestingly enough, I

00:17:33.980 --> 00:17:36.700
came up with a description that suddenly everybody

00:17:36.700 --> 00:17:38.880
is drinking their fucking pancharán to the very

00:17:38.880 --> 00:17:42.000
end so far. I think the rate of people finishing

00:17:42.000 --> 00:17:45.299
it from the moment I changed my description changed,

00:17:45.440 --> 00:17:48.119
and I started saying, it's like a Christmas Negroni.

00:17:50.129 --> 00:17:53.309
Oh, that's really good. I totally get that. That's

00:17:53.309 --> 00:17:55.029
really good, actually. Because at the end of

00:17:55.029 --> 00:17:56.910
the day, it's kind of like a Negroni without

00:17:56.910 --> 00:17:59.190
the bitterness. And you have this Christmas spices

00:17:59.190 --> 00:18:02.890
situation of, you know, like cinnamon, anise,

00:18:02.890 --> 00:18:05.930
even some coffee beans in there, you know, like.

00:18:06.490 --> 00:18:09.869
For me, that's also like a key thing in a Christmas

00:18:09.869 --> 00:18:12.369
dinner. That's to be cinnamon somewhere or star

00:18:12.369 --> 00:18:14.789
anise, you know, like, or ginger. For me, those

00:18:14.789 --> 00:18:17.819
things have to be somewhere there. Or a little

00:18:17.819 --> 00:18:21.240
spice, you know, like this kind of sweet spices,

00:18:21.339 --> 00:18:23.980
stuff you would find on a Glühwein, you know,

00:18:24.000 --> 00:18:26.559
like that, that kind of stuff. It's part of the,

00:18:26.799 --> 00:18:32.180
you're like any other moment of, of the, or Lebkuchen

00:18:32.180 --> 00:18:35.980
spices, you know, like. I love that. Any other

00:18:35.980 --> 00:18:38.099
moment of the year, you would say, ah, this tastes

00:18:38.099 --> 00:18:40.720
like Christmas. But that moment is the moment

00:18:40.720 --> 00:18:44.279
to have those, those things. Yeah, I totally

00:18:44.279 --> 00:18:47.619
get that. That's really good. What about. Veggie

00:18:47.619 --> 00:18:51.779
sides. Veggie sides. What are your Christmas

00:18:51.779 --> 00:18:55.200
veggies? There has to be a winter salad, right?

00:18:55.259 --> 00:18:57.359
With like bitter greens, bitter leaf greens,

00:18:57.559 --> 00:19:01.339
a really just bright, sharp vinaigrette with

00:19:01.339 --> 00:19:04.299
loads of chives and very, very thinly sliced

00:19:04.299 --> 00:19:07.539
onions. Very thinly sliced, you know? You mean

00:19:07.539 --> 00:19:12.359
like kale, for example? No, like Treviso, endives,

00:19:12.500 --> 00:19:15.539
you know, radicchio, those sorts of things, you

00:19:15.539 --> 00:19:19.319
know? I like with walnuts, something like that.

00:19:19.720 --> 00:19:22.579
Yeah, yeah, maybe, not even. Just like I like,

00:19:22.740 --> 00:19:24.960
you know, I love it when there's like a salad

00:19:24.960 --> 00:19:27.960
that's just leaves and like a really beautiful

00:19:27.960 --> 00:19:30.180
dressing. There doesn't need to be too much in

00:19:30.180 --> 00:19:33.829
there. What else? I love roasted pumpkin. If

00:19:33.829 --> 00:19:35.609
you get a pumpkin that's good and it's like a

00:19:35.609 --> 00:19:37.730
little bit aged, so the water content is reduced

00:19:37.730 --> 00:19:39.769
a little bit and you roast it, even like whole,

00:19:39.950 --> 00:19:42.490
just roast the whole thing. And then you cut

00:19:42.490 --> 00:19:44.809
it open when it's like piping hot, you know,

00:19:44.809 --> 00:19:47.349
but you let it rest a little bit also. It's so,

00:19:47.589 --> 00:19:51.390
the texture is amazing. The flavor of a good

00:19:51.390 --> 00:19:53.349
pumpkin when it's cooked nicely, it's almost

00:19:53.349 --> 00:19:55.930
like melon, like cantaloupe melon is so nice.

00:19:56.190 --> 00:19:58.309
And, you know, I actually just made a new dish

00:19:58.309 --> 00:20:01.390
for the restaurant for autumn. which I'm kind

00:20:01.390 --> 00:20:02.869
of thinking is actually a really nice dish to

00:20:02.869 --> 00:20:05.269
make. So you get a sweet potato, but obviously

00:20:05.269 --> 00:20:06.789
there's different types of sweet potato. I'm

00:20:06.789 --> 00:20:08.630
getting the Asian sweet potatoes. They're a little

00:20:08.630 --> 00:20:10.970
bit more firm. You bake it like you would do

00:20:10.970 --> 00:20:13.210
an oven potato. And then after baking it, I let

00:20:13.210 --> 00:20:14.890
it cool down a little bit. I wrap it in tinfoil.

00:20:14.930 --> 00:20:16.930
I let it cool down. And then I make an incision

00:20:16.930 --> 00:20:18.750
on the top and I kind of press it a little bit.

00:20:18.809 --> 00:20:21.109
So it like opens and I scoop all the inside out.

00:20:21.210 --> 00:20:23.329
So basically then I have like a potato skin pocket.

00:20:24.170 --> 00:20:28.089
All right. I put that aside. The flesh I seasoned

00:20:28.089 --> 00:20:30.700
with truffle butter. pickled vegetables, as in

00:20:30.700 --> 00:20:33.380
like pickled daikon, pickled cucumber, herbs,

00:20:33.640 --> 00:20:36.099
a little bit of ponzu, a little bit of creme

00:20:36.099 --> 00:20:39.079
fraiche, chives, a little bit of chili, like

00:20:39.079 --> 00:20:41.079
a little bit of chili powder, a little bit of

00:20:41.079 --> 00:20:43.099
aji amarillo. And I mix it. I make this like

00:20:43.099 --> 00:20:47.799
potato salad and it's like sweet, savory, like

00:20:47.799 --> 00:20:51.140
crunchy, sour. And then I make this like mix,

00:20:51.180 --> 00:20:53.539
a little bit truffle -y and I put it back in

00:20:53.539 --> 00:20:56.599
and then I bake it again, right? Just like mix

00:20:56.599 --> 00:20:59.140
inside the skin. And when it comes out, like

00:20:59.140 --> 00:21:00.940
in our restaurant, you know, we like, I top it

00:21:00.940 --> 00:21:03.160
with like this usual kosher cream and bonito

00:21:03.160 --> 00:21:05.819
flakes and like crispy, crispy rice and stuff

00:21:05.819 --> 00:21:08.339
like that. And then you just get the thing and

00:21:08.339 --> 00:21:10.220
you like basically like scoop the stuff out of

00:21:10.220 --> 00:21:13.279
the potato. But it's a really nice dish to make

00:21:13.279 --> 00:21:15.000
because it's so easy. It's actually, it sounds

00:21:15.000 --> 00:21:16.619
a little bit complicated, but it's so easy to

00:21:16.619 --> 00:21:19.539
make. It's so easy to prep. And if you get these

00:21:19.539 --> 00:21:22.660
like beautiful, big sweet potatoes where every,

00:21:22.700 --> 00:21:24.500
all the work is done for you. You don't need

00:21:24.500 --> 00:21:26.019
to peel it. You don't need to do anything. You

00:21:26.019 --> 00:21:28.059
just need to stick your spoon in. And just take

00:21:28.059 --> 00:21:30.480
it out and it's like perfectly seasoned all the

00:21:30.480 --> 00:21:32.900
way through. Super fun to eat. It's really, really

00:21:32.900 --> 00:21:36.019
nice. I love these sort of like festive centerpieces,

00:21:36.119 --> 00:21:37.559
you know, where you're kind of like, oh, it looks

00:21:37.559 --> 00:21:40.200
nice, but it's also super comfortable to eat.

00:21:40.279 --> 00:21:44.539
If you need to have a fresh salad, just like

00:21:44.539 --> 00:21:49.180
a julienne raw pumpkin, you know, marinating

00:21:49.180 --> 00:21:53.579
it with honey, lime, ginger and chives as well.

00:21:54.910 --> 00:21:56.829
Simple, just that, you know, and you have like

00:21:56.829 --> 00:22:00.109
this little fresh. Sounds really good. I've done

00:22:00.109 --> 00:22:02.349
this a couple of times for Christmas, and every

00:22:02.349 --> 00:22:04.710
time I do it, a lot of people tell me, I've never

00:22:04.710 --> 00:22:07.289
had raw pumpkin before. You know, it's very common

00:22:07.289 --> 00:22:11.609
to assuming you can't do that, right? That's

00:22:11.609 --> 00:22:14.950
very true, yeah. Brussels sprouts, I think they're

00:22:14.950 --> 00:22:17.369
also very Christmassy for some reason. Very true.

00:22:17.470 --> 00:22:19.529
I don't know why. Very true. I do like them.

00:22:19.589 --> 00:22:21.089
I do like them, especially when they're like

00:22:21.089 --> 00:22:24.119
roasted, you know. Yeah, like butter roasted.

00:22:24.700 --> 00:22:27.460
You can also like quickly deep fry them. At home,

00:22:27.460 --> 00:22:29.019
it's not so nice, but deep fry them and then

00:22:29.019 --> 00:22:30.500
just like toss them with a bit of fish sauce.

00:22:31.339 --> 00:22:34.940
Ah, nice. It's really good, yeah. I have another

00:22:34.940 --> 00:22:39.579
side dish that is amazing. It's also very undervalued.

00:22:40.079 --> 00:22:43.619
And that's pommes boulangeres, the bread baker's

00:22:43.619 --> 00:22:47.500
potatoes. Traditionally... potatoes that are

00:22:47.500 --> 00:22:51.680
sliced. They're called boulanger because supposedly

00:22:51.680 --> 00:22:54.480
people used to use the residual oven heat after

00:22:54.480 --> 00:22:57.740
baking bread for making this potato dish. You

00:22:57.740 --> 00:23:00.160
slice potatoes, you lay it up with like raw onions,

00:23:00.339 --> 00:23:02.940
sliced raw onions, and you add some stock and

00:23:02.940 --> 00:23:04.640
then you just bake it all together. The stock

00:23:04.640 --> 00:23:06.640
reduces, gets really thick and really velvety.

00:23:06.819 --> 00:23:09.200
The potatoes get really like, you know, all the

00:23:09.200 --> 00:23:11.819
way cooked through, but really silky. I do a

00:23:11.819 --> 00:23:15.039
version that is inspired by one of my favorite

00:23:15.039 --> 00:23:18.720
chefs. uh james henry who's got an incredible

00:23:18.720 --> 00:23:21.240
restaurant in the french countryside called little

00:23:21.240 --> 00:23:24.220
yin basically potatoes really thinly sliced you

00:23:24.220 --> 00:23:26.599
take a nice sort of presentation pan ideally

00:23:26.599 --> 00:23:28.859
it's like a copper pan you know like a rondelle

00:23:28.859 --> 00:23:32.359
that's not too high you rub that with butter

00:23:32.359 --> 00:23:35.500
and what i do is like i peel a big potato i cut

00:23:35.500 --> 00:23:38.579
it in half i cut it like at an angle very thinly

00:23:38.579 --> 00:23:41.700
all the way down and then i press it so it fans

00:23:41.700 --> 00:23:44.390
out And then I put that fan into the thing and

00:23:44.390 --> 00:23:46.349
I just repeat that until I have this rose pattern

00:23:46.349 --> 00:23:49.309
going all the way around into the center. Then

00:23:49.309 --> 00:23:51.210
I add some caramelized onions on top that I just

00:23:51.210 --> 00:23:54.029
caramelized down in a pot. And then I add a very

00:23:54.029 --> 00:23:57.269
nice either like a chicken stock or like whatever

00:23:57.269 --> 00:23:58.750
it is. Chicken stock works perfectly. If you

00:23:58.750 --> 00:24:00.930
have a brown chicken stock, it's very good. Amazing.

00:24:01.150 --> 00:24:03.049
If you have some collagen in it, it's even better.

00:24:03.369 --> 00:24:05.109
And then you just put it in the oven and you

00:24:05.109 --> 00:24:07.440
just forget about it. Until the top is really

00:24:07.440 --> 00:24:09.559
crispy and caramelized. Oh, sorry, I forgot a

00:24:09.559 --> 00:24:11.059
really important step. You need to add some flakes

00:24:11.059 --> 00:24:13.700
of butter on top also. And if you make it right,

00:24:13.859 --> 00:24:17.440
the potatoes are crispy on top, super tender,

00:24:17.759 --> 00:24:21.779
meaty, juicy on the bottom. Everything is glazed

00:24:21.779 --> 00:24:24.500
by this like reduced meat stock butter mixture

00:24:24.500 --> 00:24:27.660
with these like pockets of sweet caramelized

00:24:27.660 --> 00:24:30.339
onions. And you bring that out onto a table.

00:24:30.420 --> 00:24:34.059
It looks gorgeous. It's beautiful. But at the

00:24:34.059 --> 00:24:36.700
same time, it's so much fun to eat because I

00:24:36.700 --> 00:24:40.680
love making this because it's so visually stunning.

00:24:40.759 --> 00:24:42.779
But at the same time, the texture of the potato

00:24:42.779 --> 00:24:45.740
with this flavor is really special. And it's

00:24:45.740 --> 00:24:48.200
just potatoes and onions in stock, you know.

00:24:48.319 --> 00:24:50.440
But yeah, if you haven't made it, give it a try.

00:24:50.539 --> 00:24:52.099
I think it's probably one of my favorite potato

00:24:52.099 --> 00:24:55.599
dishes there is. By the way, you saw the pumpkin

00:24:55.599 --> 00:24:58.859
bushi from normal projects? Looks pretty cool.

00:24:58.900 --> 00:25:02.279
I did. I did. I'm really curious to try it, actually.

00:25:03.339 --> 00:25:05.559
There was something else, right? It was like

00:25:05.559 --> 00:25:08.660
a pumpkin seed praline. Was it that or something

00:25:08.660 --> 00:25:10.680
similar? Yeah, there was a pumpkin seed praline

00:25:10.680 --> 00:25:13.119
also. I also haven't tried that, but that sounds

00:25:13.119 --> 00:25:15.339
fucking delicious, man. That sounds so good.

00:25:15.480 --> 00:25:18.359
I can really imagine the flavor of a pumpkin

00:25:18.359 --> 00:25:21.500
seed praline. It makes so much sense also. And

00:25:21.500 --> 00:25:25.119
for me, that would also be like a very Christmassy

00:25:25.119 --> 00:25:28.740
thing. Oh, yeah. Maybe for dessert, maybe for

00:25:28.740 --> 00:25:33.759
a cheese interlude. Would you? Cheese at Christmas

00:25:33.759 --> 00:25:36.339
is a must -have. What kind of cheese are you?

00:25:36.400 --> 00:25:38.160
Are you sort of like a blue cheese guy? Are you

00:25:38.160 --> 00:25:41.339
more like a Gruyere guy? Yeah. What's the name

00:25:41.339 --> 00:25:44.500
of this super orange cheese? You know, the one

00:25:44.500 --> 00:25:49.960
that... No. Same color, but French. French? Orange?

00:25:50.160 --> 00:25:55.740
Yeah. Mimolette. Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah. Very nice.

00:25:56.480 --> 00:25:59.680
The one that you, like, slice down. Like a mimolette

00:25:59.680 --> 00:26:04.460
with pumpkin seed praline on a toast. Amazing.

00:26:05.000 --> 00:26:06.940
I wouldn't complain with something like that.

00:26:06.960 --> 00:26:09.039
Amazing. Yeah, I also love, you know, like I

00:26:09.039 --> 00:26:11.500
love just like a very good blue cheese, some

00:26:11.500 --> 00:26:13.579
like nice toasted bread and some like walnuts,

00:26:13.660 --> 00:26:16.440
you know, some, some embryo maybe, you know,

00:26:16.440 --> 00:26:18.420
just on the side. You just crack the walnuts

00:26:18.420 --> 00:26:21.480
there on the table, you know, you eat. Amazing.

00:26:21.740 --> 00:26:25.039
Like a quince jelly. Yeah. Quince. We haven't

00:26:25.039 --> 00:26:27.240
said anything about quince. I think it's also

00:26:27.240 --> 00:26:30.759
very... Very Christmassy. I know a lot of people

00:26:30.759 --> 00:26:33.339
who don't know what quince is. A quince compote

00:26:33.339 --> 00:26:37.660
with your foie gras at the beginning. That's

00:26:37.660 --> 00:26:41.140
a killer. I think quince is so underrated. It's

00:26:41.140 --> 00:26:44.119
one of my favorite fruit, honestly. Like cooked,

00:26:44.299 --> 00:26:48.180
it's just unparalleled. The flavor of quince

00:26:48.180 --> 00:26:50.799
is amazing. You know, there is a whole obscure

00:26:50.799 --> 00:26:55.750
category of fruits in that domain. like in the

00:26:55.750 --> 00:27:00.829
apple, quince, pear family, that are underused,

00:27:00.970 --> 00:27:03.430
you know, that you wouldn't find normally like

00:27:03.430 --> 00:27:05.950
in the supermarket or in markets because nobody

00:27:05.950 --> 00:27:09.930
consumes them. But there are like these crossovers

00:27:09.930 --> 00:27:13.390
with pear and quince that are also hard that

00:27:13.390 --> 00:27:17.150
you can't cook. 100%. I've heard one that in

00:27:17.150 --> 00:27:21.039
Spanish is called pero. which is like the male

00:27:21.039 --> 00:27:23.519
of pear. And it's something like that. It's like

00:27:23.519 --> 00:27:27.839
a very, like a quince pear kind of thing. Super,

00:27:27.900 --> 00:27:30.099
super nice. You know, yeah, absolutely. That

00:27:30.099 --> 00:27:33.180
makes me think of something that I love and that

00:27:33.180 --> 00:27:36.119
I've only really seen in Germany and in the UK,

00:27:36.240 --> 00:27:39.079
but also not like in, not very commonly. That's

00:27:39.079 --> 00:27:42.400
crabapple. You know crabapple? No. They're these

00:27:42.400 --> 00:27:45.269
like tiny apple looking like fruit. And you can't

00:27:45.269 --> 00:27:47.190
really eat them raw. I mean, maybe you can, I

00:27:47.190 --> 00:27:49.410
don't know. But they're like also kind of hard.

00:27:49.650 --> 00:27:52.549
And you can make amazing pickles from them. You

00:27:52.549 --> 00:27:55.029
can make amazing compotes. And more commonly,

00:27:55.069 --> 00:27:58.049
you can make a really amazing jelly. And it has,

00:27:58.170 --> 00:28:01.690
just like quince, a very, very particular flavor.

00:28:01.950 --> 00:28:03.630
Like, I mean, if you had to describe quince to

00:28:03.630 --> 00:28:05.170
somebody, you'd be like, well, it's kind of like

00:28:05.170 --> 00:28:06.869
this. It's kind of like pear, kind of like apple,

00:28:06.950 --> 00:28:09.029
kind of floral. But you wouldn't really be able

00:28:09.029 --> 00:28:10.750
to describe it because it's just so specific.

00:28:11.089 --> 00:28:14.990
Same with crab apple. Sandy. kind of quality

00:28:14.990 --> 00:28:19.390
that it has, you know? Yes, true. It's like when

00:28:19.390 --> 00:28:26.349
a cat licks you, you know? Yes, true. Like kissing

00:28:26.349 --> 00:28:29.849
a cat, you know? Yeah, yeah, yeah. Of course,

00:28:29.869 --> 00:28:34.750
that's an experience that we've all made. That's

00:28:34.750 --> 00:28:37.049
a completely normal thing to say or think about.

00:28:38.490 --> 00:28:41.009
Okay, let's talk about desserts. I feel like

00:28:41.009 --> 00:28:43.170
for some reason, you know, I'm not a pastry chef,

00:28:43.269 --> 00:28:46.789
but for me, Christmas is almost more about the

00:28:46.789 --> 00:28:49.349
pudding than it is about the main meal. Hey,

00:28:49.450 --> 00:28:52.230
Phil, have you subscribed to our newsletter yet?

00:28:52.450 --> 00:28:55.289
We have a newsletter? What's a newsletter about,

00:28:55.430 --> 00:28:58.369
Erik? Every month we share one cool thing from

00:28:58.369 --> 00:29:00.549
the world of food and restaurants and occasionally

00:29:00.549 --> 00:29:04.269
a recipe we swore we'd never share. Like your

00:29:04.269 --> 00:29:07.390
secret boiled egg lemon tart recipe. But Erik,

00:29:07.589 --> 00:29:11.069
that was my grandma's secret recipe. Not anymore.

00:29:11.589 --> 00:29:14.470
Subscribe to our newsletter where we unveil all

00:29:14.470 --> 00:29:20.329
of Phil's grandmother's secrets. Would you have

00:29:20.329 --> 00:29:25.369
like a palate cleanser? Do you know what is super

00:29:25.369 --> 00:29:29.529
common here in Spain? Mixing like cava with like

00:29:29.529 --> 00:29:32.910
a lemon ice cream. Yeah, I was going to say that.

00:29:33.009 --> 00:29:35.269
I was going to say like vodka with a little bit

00:29:35.269 --> 00:29:37.430
of like a yuzu sorbet or something is amazing.

00:29:37.670 --> 00:29:41.589
Yeah, exactly. That is super nice. Cava is super

00:29:41.589 --> 00:29:44.009
common here. Yeah, yeah, yeah. I can see that.

00:29:44.069 --> 00:29:46.950
I would smash those, honestly, on Christmas Eve.

00:29:47.150 --> 00:29:49.930
Fuck. Frozen margaritas before dessert. I wouldn't

00:29:49.930 --> 00:29:53.109
make it to dessert, I don't think. Yeah, but,

00:29:53.190 --> 00:29:55.430
like, what kind of pudding do you go for? Like

00:29:55.430 --> 00:29:57.650
I said, like, for me, something important is

00:29:57.650 --> 00:30:01.650
it could be anything, but I need those Christmas

00:30:01.650 --> 00:30:06.759
spices. You know, those cinnamon, lemon, orange,

00:30:06.960 --> 00:30:14.700
ginger, allspice, star anise kind of thing. So

00:30:14.700 --> 00:30:19.039
it could be like, you know, like a simple ganache

00:30:19.039 --> 00:30:21.940
with those things or an ice cream with those

00:30:21.940 --> 00:30:27.160
things. Or, you know, like those would be easy

00:30:27.160 --> 00:30:29.759
bets for me. Even a cheesecake with that, you

00:30:29.759 --> 00:30:33.369
know, like. Yeah, very nice. Christmas cheesecake.

00:30:33.789 --> 00:30:37.069
Hmm. Christmas cheesecake. Christmas cheesecake.

00:30:37.210 --> 00:30:39.950
Yeah. That's, I think that's a, that's a good

00:30:39.950 --> 00:30:44.230
market idea. Christmas cheesecake. Hmm. Yeah.

00:30:44.309 --> 00:30:46.750
For me, it's like, I don't know. Christmas Negroni.

00:30:47.769 --> 00:30:52.650
Yes, exactly. A perfect combination. Um, for

00:30:52.650 --> 00:30:55.569
me, it's like, I don't know, like desserts and

00:30:55.569 --> 00:30:57.289
Christmas are very nostalgic. Like for me, the

00:30:57.289 --> 00:30:59.289
first thing that I think of is, uh, Riz Alamon.

00:31:00.470 --> 00:31:03.619
Um, Like a nice arroz con leche. Oh, really?

00:31:03.619 --> 00:31:06.740
Sort of like merengada. That's really nostalgic.

00:31:07.240 --> 00:31:10.220
That's really like childhood kind of thing. Oh,

00:31:10.220 --> 00:31:11.900
a hundred percent, man. With like some almonds

00:31:11.900 --> 00:31:13.839
in there, like nice, a little bit of lemon zest

00:31:13.839 --> 00:31:16.440
inside the mix, like cinnamon, vanilla, good

00:31:16.440 --> 00:31:18.940
quality vanilla, and then cooked really nicely.

00:31:19.319 --> 00:31:21.900
Fuck, man. There's like few things that I'll

00:31:21.900 --> 00:31:25.160
enjoy eating more than that. Have you seen, you

00:31:25.160 --> 00:31:27.960
know, Daniel Calvert of Cezanne in Tokyo? I know

00:31:27.960 --> 00:31:31.019
who he is, but... oh you don't know him personally

00:31:31.019 --> 00:31:33.140
you don't go playing golf with him every sunday

00:31:33.140 --> 00:31:39.259
no okay no no no not this time but man he made

00:31:39.259 --> 00:31:41.079
this like he's got this new dessert that he's

00:31:41.079 --> 00:31:43.380
like i saw it on instagram and it's basically

00:31:43.380 --> 00:31:47.980
rice pudding risa lemon that's baked inside of

00:31:47.980 --> 00:31:51.500
a puff pastry so you Like he makes this like

00:31:51.500 --> 00:31:54.500
long pastry with this like homemade puff pastry

00:31:54.500 --> 00:31:57.079
and it bakes the rice pudding inside of the puff

00:31:57.079 --> 00:32:00.140
pastry. So you have this crispy dome that's like

00:32:00.140 --> 00:32:02.299
domed up and then like a layer of rice pudding

00:32:02.299 --> 00:32:06.019
in pastry. It looks insane. It looks absolutely

00:32:06.019 --> 00:32:08.599
unbelievable. But like just like a normal rice

00:32:08.599 --> 00:32:10.779
pudding with like poached cherries, you know,

00:32:10.779 --> 00:32:15.680
amazing. And then maybe something like a buttermilk

00:32:15.680 --> 00:32:18.279
ice cream with like poached apricots, apricots

00:32:18.279 --> 00:32:22.180
with some star anise. Some white wine. Yeah,

00:32:22.339 --> 00:32:28.539
like I was thinking about that also. Like a roasted

00:32:28.539 --> 00:32:32.079
apple or pear or something. Some of these fruits

00:32:32.079 --> 00:32:34.700
we mentioned. And again, there you have like

00:32:34.700 --> 00:32:38.359
the spices I was saying also. You know what is

00:32:38.359 --> 00:32:42.220
very common in Venezuela? We have our own version

00:32:42.220 --> 00:32:47.500
of what in Germany is called Aya liqueur. Which

00:32:47.500 --> 00:32:51.900
is basically a creme anglaise with rum. Basically.

00:32:53.039 --> 00:32:57.359
What more do you want? Honestly. What more do

00:32:57.359 --> 00:32:59.539
you want to completely finish yourself off towards

00:32:59.539 --> 00:33:05.000
the end of the year? No, I'm serious. It's fucking

00:33:05.000 --> 00:33:08.200
amazing, that stuff. It's so dangerous. But yeah,

00:33:08.319 --> 00:33:11.579
having one of those, which brought me to... I

00:33:11.579 --> 00:33:13.599
remember when I was in Bolivia, there was this

00:33:13.599 --> 00:33:19.880
really talented... bartender mixologist and he

00:33:19.880 --> 00:33:24.220
did a cocktail he called it he called it like

00:33:24.220 --> 00:33:26.660
part of a song that was related to arroz con

00:33:26.660 --> 00:33:30.220
leche like rice pudding but yeah he had the flavors

00:33:30.220 --> 00:33:32.779
of a rice pudding like where you would feel the

00:33:32.779 --> 00:33:35.480
lemon zest and the cinnamon and the rice but

00:33:35.480 --> 00:33:37.700
yeah it was like a thick cocktail and it was

00:33:37.700 --> 00:33:40.759
kind of like this kind of like a creme anglaise

00:33:40.759 --> 00:33:44.400
with yeah with rum Man, that sounds amazing.

00:33:44.619 --> 00:33:47.259
That's so intense. Honestly, I think one of my

00:33:47.259 --> 00:33:50.079
favorite times to cook and to eat is Christmas

00:33:50.079 --> 00:33:53.240
time. It's just, there's just something so, so

00:33:53.240 --> 00:33:56.440
warm and so like nostalgic about it, you know.

00:33:56.460 --> 00:33:58.640
Also like, you know, the days before, like baking

00:33:58.640 --> 00:34:01.619
cookies and like that sort of stuff. You know,

00:34:01.619 --> 00:34:04.099
in Germany, obviously like Lebkuchen, roasted

00:34:04.099 --> 00:34:06.740
chestnuts. If you're like on a walk, you know,

00:34:06.740 --> 00:34:09.280
and somebody's selling roasted chestnuts on the

00:34:09.280 --> 00:34:11.239
street, you get a little paper bag of roasted

00:34:11.239 --> 00:34:13.989
chestnuts. Simple pleasures, you know, but really,

00:34:14.090 --> 00:34:16.730
really nice. Oh, yeah. Like also doing desserts

00:34:16.730 --> 00:34:21.090
with marron glacés. You know, like I remember

00:34:21.090 --> 00:34:26.889
this dessert from a chef that was my teacher

00:34:26.889 --> 00:34:31.130
in culinary school. And he would do a crème pâtissière,

00:34:31.250 --> 00:34:36.550
a pastry cream, and turn it, like blitz it with

00:34:36.550 --> 00:34:40.150
the marron glacés. So you would have this chestnut

00:34:40.150 --> 00:34:43.699
pastry cream. And basically that was the dessert.

00:34:43.920 --> 00:34:46.360
Then he would do this two wheels and forma in

00:34:46.360 --> 00:34:49.280
the shape of a tube and fill them. But you would

00:34:49.280 --> 00:34:52.360
have this canutillos, you know, like, and then

00:34:52.360 --> 00:34:57.900
crotch with the chestnut. That was amazing. It

00:34:57.900 --> 00:34:59.840
can't be so simple, you know? Yeah. What else

00:34:59.840 --> 00:35:03.360
do you want? And that concludes our year. Thank

00:35:03.360 --> 00:35:05.219
you very much for making that really amazing

00:35:05.219 --> 00:35:07.659
year for us. Thanks for listening up to this

00:35:07.659 --> 00:35:09.860
point. Unless this is your first episode, then

00:35:09.860 --> 00:35:11.800
go back to the beginning and start all over again.

00:35:11.860 --> 00:35:14.300
And I'll see you here in a year's time. Wishing

00:35:14.300 --> 00:35:17.079
you all a very Merry Christmas. Happy cooking.

00:35:17.460 --> 00:35:20.679
Try not to kill the family members that you only

00:35:20.679 --> 00:35:26.579
see one time a year at this sacred day. And yeah,

00:35:26.639 --> 00:35:27.780
don't forget to love each other.
