WEBVTT

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Hi, everyone. Welcome to Pot Luck Food Talks,

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the show where we talk about food and kitchens

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from a cook's point of view. We're recording

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today live from the Millennium Falcon. My name

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is Obi -Wan Kenobi, and I'm here with my friend

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Chewbacca. And we're going to talk about the

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future of restaurants and food scenes and movements.

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But first, you're listening to Heritage Radio

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Network. You know, I wanted to talk today about

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Modernist Cuisine. Do you think Modernist Cuisine

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is a book that has aged well or has the culinary

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world evolved in ways that make one's groundbreaking

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ideas or meanings outdated? I'm curious from

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your perspective if it still stands as a foundational

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text or... I don't know if newer techniques or

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even more so philosophies have overtaken its

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relevance. It's a good question. I mean, modernist

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cuisine was like, I remember when it came out,

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everybody was so excited about it. There was

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this big ass compendium of books. It was super

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expensive also. I don't even remember how much

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it was, but it was quite expensive. 500 euros,

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I remember. Five or 600, something like that.

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And I remember like going through it and, you

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know, like we were already sort of like past

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the whole like molecular kind of movement hype

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and the whole like scientific approach. I mean,

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like in that sort of way. But still, I feel like

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with El Bouyi and the movement that came from

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there, it kind of opened the doors for chefs

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to think about more on a molecular level, like

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what is happening. in what they're doing in the

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processes and i feel like modernist cuisine was

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a really cool piece of work published after that

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that broke down a lot of things and it's a i

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think still i haven't looked at it in many many

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many years i remember i got a copy of it a copy

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of like the compendium of books back when it

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came out it was like a big thing yeah i remember

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you left that copy at my house when you traveled

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like for two years to asia and i don't know where

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else I'm glad you didn't sell it like you did

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with my other shit. By the way, Adriano, if you're

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listening to this, I'm going to sell your fucking

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ice machine if you don't bring it home at some

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point. Okay, sorry. We can go on. I'm looking

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to buy an ice cream machine, actually. Yeah?

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Okay, we can talk after the show. Yeah, and I

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remember reading it and going through it. And

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you read it like a textbook, you know, and you're

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kind of like, oh, interesting. I never thought

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about this. I never thought about that. You know,

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I think it's like, I think it's an amazing book.

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Look, I'm not a very scientific chef. I like

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cooking by feeling. I like also like knowing

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and understanding what's going on, but it's definitely

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not at the forefront of how I work. You know,

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other chefs, they have a much bigger focus on

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that, right? Enzymatic reactions and this and

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that, you know, the sort of like. Well, I don't

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know, you know, restaurants like Alchemist and

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stuff like that, you know, there's a lot more

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technical knowledge. Whereas if you look at,

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for example, a kitchen like La Pêche in Paris

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with Alain Passat, you know, there's none of

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that. It's just pure, pure cooking, pure feeling,

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pure craft. I have like a slight disagreement

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because I think it's just different approaches

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on technique. But I won't say that La Paese is

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not technical. You know, it's like saying...

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Oh, no, no, no. It's like saying, like, I don't

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know, like a jazz freestyler, he's not technical

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because he's freestyling and he doesn't even

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know how to read music notes. I mean, but at

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the end of the day, he's doing dope music and

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he knows what he's doing. But I think there are

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these differences of maybe more sophisticated

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techniques, maybe techniques that involve formulation

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and understanding of reactions, while the other

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is more like a gut kind of cooking, right? No,

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absolutely. I totally agree with you. I wasn't

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trying to say that one is technical and the other

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is not. One thing that you said is interesting

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is sophisticated, because I don't think that...

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one is more sophisticated than the other you

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know this is like if you take your example of

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music you know um a very like classically trained

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orchestra musician is this person more sophisticated

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than somebody who does not know how to read music

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at all and it's just but it's just playing intrinsically

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or a drummer that is just you know you know like

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how many so many drummers you know that if you

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put a sheet of drum music in front of them they're

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like what is this you know but they can drum

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just because they kind of feel it. I don't think

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one is more sophisticated than the other, but

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you're totally right. I don't think that one

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is better than the other at all. It's just a

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different approach. What I was trying to say

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is that I'm from one approach, but I can still

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very much appreciate modernist cuisine as what

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it is, because it's super interesting. And I

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think it's impossible that as a chef who's interested

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in the craft, regardless of what you're interested

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in, that if you read it, it's going to give something

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to you. 100%. You're going to take something

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away from it. 100%. I agree. I agree. Phil, do

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you recommend podcasts to your friends? All the

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time. The best way of showing friends that you

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care is recommending a great podcast to listen

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to. I agree. If you're listening right now, you

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should show your love by recommending a show

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to all your best friends. It will make them happy.

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It will make us happy. PopLock Food Talks. Tell

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your friends. It will make the world a better

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place. You know, it came to my mind. I don't

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know if you ever saw the, it was from the American

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version of Iron Chef. There was an episode with

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Homaru Kanto. You know Homaru Kanto? He was the

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chef of a place called Moto that was ultra molecular.

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And I think he killed himself. I think he hanged

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himself in the kitchen, actually. Damn. Yeah.

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That Iron Chef episode for me was really interesting

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because he really embodied this whole. molecular

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cuisine approach where, where kitchens became

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like, maybe looking like a lab, you know, like,

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and there were different, I would say like, like,

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restaurant scenes with that approach. Notably,

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of course, Catalonia with El Bulli movement and

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all of that, but then also the Fat Dog in England,

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which was the seed. for modernist cuisine, because

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the chefs that wrote the book were from the Fat

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Dog. And then we also have Chicago, of course,

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where Moto was from, where this restaurant was

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located. And this Iron Chef episode, it was really

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striking, the difference between the two styles,

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because this was a clash of these two styles.

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I don't even remember the other chef, but I remember

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that Homaru Kanto was notably different. He was

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actually like, you know, with... tubes that you

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find in labs. And it was completely boring because

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what you want to see in an Iron Chef episode

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is actually someone, you know, like flambeing,

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burning stuff, and churning ice a la minute.

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Well, he was just doing very technical stuff.

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That's what I mean with technical. I'm not saying

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the other one is not technical, but this is more

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like I formulate something and then I just play

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two buttons and something really interesting

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comes. comes out with maybe an easy execution,

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but like a very sophisticated formulation and

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planning, right? And then this makes it maybe

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for someone less skilled or more intellectual

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into this kind of formulations and reactions

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and stuff to create also something interesting

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and surprising. And he won. He won. And for me,

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it was interesting that he won. Because everything

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looks so boring, right? Well, in Irish, you see

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all this acrobatics of chefs cooking and so.

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Like, these are these kind of things. I don't

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know if technique is the right word, but maybe

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like, yeah, like a different approach, a different

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methodology to cooking. Yeah, absolutely. And

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I mean, that is the cool, like one of the cool

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aspects of cooking. You know, there's so many

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different approaches. Have you ever watched the

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anime show Food Wars? No, no, no, no. It's such

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a cool representation of like different styles

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of cooking coming together and the sort of like

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advantages that maybe one style has, you know,

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where it's kind of like, you know, just like

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to really exaggerate, you know, you'll have like

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a stir fry chef going up against like a super

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minimalist, modern, molecular chef, you know,

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and they'll have to like have like a cook -off

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in like an arena. And it showcases really beautifully

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these moments that are like very intangible in

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cooking you know this this is the thing and this

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is also something that's always really fascinated

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me there's so much in cooking and in eating and

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in experiencing the depth of what cooking can

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be that's so intrinsical that you can almost

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not explain it in words Like when you've had

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an experience of going to, I remember, for example,

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I mean, not to like talk about Asia all the time,

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you know, I remember going to Navarra and going

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to this place, Casino, where this old woman was

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making tortillas and you eat the tortilla and

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you're like, what is happening? Why is this?

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This is incredible, right? This is so good. Or

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you go to a really amazing ramen place in Japan.

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And you take the first sip of the broth and it

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just like flushes through you. And if you look

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at that from the outside and you see somebody

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sipping soup and it's very hard to explain the

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sort of like emotional reaction that that can

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cause in you. But it's very cool because this

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show does showcase that, these like little magical

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moments. Cooking is very, very special. It's

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a very special craft because you have all these

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things that play into it that are very intangible

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and that you almost have to experience to understand

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them, right? And we have such a varied tool set

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at our hands. It's very natural that some people

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go into one way, some people go into another

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way. You know, somebody will find what really

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excites them and they will try to go as deep

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as they can into that. you know, and then somebody

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else will find something different, you know,

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somebody will, you know, like a pastry chef will

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get really into the super scientifically, chirurgically

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precise kind of like technique and have it all

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super exact, play with textures, play with this,

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play with that, play with the visual aspect.

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And somebody else might say, I don't care about

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the visual aspect. I care about the impact, you

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know, I care and everything else I don't care

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about. And that's why it's like compared to other

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crafts, it's very, very difficult to compare

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cooking because there's so much that plays into

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it that it's just not tangible. I think the word

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I was looking for is technological. I think one

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approach is more technological than the other.

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Right? Because, I mean, one of these super molecular

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chefs, he can't do nothing without many tools,

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right? Like at least a sous vide cooker, a thermometer,

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some whatever, right? Like a vacuum machine and

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some other stuff. While the other chef just needs

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a knife and a pot and can do magic with just

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that. For me, a very good example that comes

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to my mind right now, for example, are turning

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artichokes, right? That's something that requires

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skill. You need to have at least some basic pairing

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skills, right? Like to pair the artichoke, and

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also you need to understand the oxidation and

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the bath you're putting in, and keep them underwater,

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and there are a few things. These are many steps

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and many things you need to control to do that,

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and that's technical. But something that blew

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my mind was my friend John Basterrechea. He came

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once and he told me like, look at this. And he

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vacuumed the artichokes with just salt and olive

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oil and he steamed them and he paired them after

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steamed. And the things were perfect. And you

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skipped like 10 steps, right? Like something

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that would take like an hour to do, it would

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take him like 15 minutes because it was way easier

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to pair. And this is what I say, understanding

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these techniques and also at the end of the day,

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As a chef, you should always strive or aim at

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a specific desired result. And in this case is

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cooked artichokes, right? Like there are different

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ways to get that. And sometimes technology like

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a steamer or in this case, a vacuum machine,

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you need it because you could also cook it like

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in water or whatever. But yeah, like specific

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timing, specific steaming temperature, and you

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have like a super nice result, right? And I think

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these are the advantages of these technological

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tools. Where do you think that restaurant scenes

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are moving forward to nowadays? Like, are they

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becoming more technical, more discourse -driven,

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or what's your thought on that? That's a good

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question. I think we're in one of the most exciting

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times. of restaurants i think it's just gotten

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exponentially more and more exciting and like

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bigger and bigger and i think that it's very

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diversified i think that there's people are a

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lot more educated when it comes to food they

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know a lot more and there's a lot more variety

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in like where they can go and not just where

00:13:49.590 --> 00:13:51.169
they can go as in restaurants you know but like

00:13:51.169 --> 00:13:53.590
also how they cook themselves how they eat you

00:13:53.590 --> 00:13:55.950
know where do ingredients come from like what

00:13:55.950 --> 00:13:58.309
what is my diet like what what do i want it to

00:13:58.309 --> 00:14:01.110
be you know there's so many trends left and right

00:14:01.110 --> 00:14:03.629
and up and down and back and forth you know sort

00:14:03.629 --> 00:14:06.490
of like and then it's molecular then it's nordic

00:14:06.490 --> 00:14:08.230
and then it's like a lot of foraging and then

00:14:08.230 --> 00:14:10.210
it's a lot of fermentation and then it's all

00:14:10.210 --> 00:14:12.840
like archaic It's a lot of open fire cooking.

00:14:13.200 --> 00:14:15.200
And then it's kind of like, let's move away from

00:14:15.200 --> 00:14:17.139
the modern food. Let's go back to super traditional

00:14:17.139 --> 00:14:20.320
basics. Let's go away from the like aesthetic

00:14:20.320 --> 00:14:22.379
driven. I put a herb here, I put a herb there.

00:14:23.019 --> 00:14:26.480
And like all these tendencies, they like exist.

00:14:27.259 --> 00:14:31.120
But nowadays, I feel like instead of just having

00:14:31.120 --> 00:14:34.259
like one or two that are like predominant, we

00:14:34.259 --> 00:14:37.120
have a lot more and people have a lot more variety

00:14:37.120 --> 00:14:40.139
to choose. Like, for example, here in Dubai.

00:14:40.570 --> 00:14:42.330
The restaurant scene is still relatively young.

00:14:42.789 --> 00:14:46.509
Four years ago, it was very one -sided. It was

00:14:46.509 --> 00:14:49.590
like big places. The food was all very similar.

00:14:49.769 --> 00:14:52.429
You had items that you knew that people loved,

00:14:52.590 --> 00:14:54.990
right? You know, people like Wagyu. You always

00:14:54.990 --> 00:14:56.970
have Wagyu steaks on the menu. You knew that

00:14:56.970 --> 00:14:59.289
people like young chickens, baby chickens, right?

00:14:59.509 --> 00:15:01.230
So you always have like a roasted baby chicken

00:15:01.230 --> 00:15:04.049
boneless on there. I could name you like five,

00:15:04.269 --> 00:15:06.990
six, seven, eight restaurants that have almost

00:15:06.990 --> 00:15:09.169
identical dishes on the menu because you know

00:15:09.169 --> 00:15:11.100
that they're crowd favorites. And it was very

00:15:11.100 --> 00:15:13.659
strange to me. Very, very strange. So everywhere

00:15:13.659 --> 00:15:15.440
I would go, I'd be sort of like, oh, that's their

00:15:15.440 --> 00:15:17.179
version of the baby chicken. That's their version.

00:15:17.340 --> 00:15:19.399
I would say you have the same here, like the

00:15:19.399 --> 00:15:23.840
Basque style of grilling. I mean, the chuleta

00:15:23.840 --> 00:15:26.820
and the grilled fish. You will find this in pretty

00:15:26.820 --> 00:15:29.039
much any restaurant or any grill house. All of

00:15:29.039 --> 00:15:31.629
them, you know, like. That's true. But obviously,

00:15:31.830 --> 00:15:33.649
the Basque country has a lot like a bigger, rich

00:15:33.649 --> 00:15:36.049
history of their own food. You know, you have,

00:15:36.049 --> 00:15:37.809
of course, restaurants that have Emirati food,

00:15:37.909 --> 00:15:39.710
but all these restaurants, they're not traditional

00:15:39.710 --> 00:15:42.429
from here. You know, they're a concept that has

00:15:42.429 --> 00:15:44.169
been made that's completely something else. But

00:15:44.169 --> 00:15:46.350
nowadays, there's a lot more restaurants opening

00:15:46.350 --> 00:15:49.090
up that try to break out of that. I think it's

00:15:49.090 --> 00:15:50.889
very interesting what you just said, because

00:15:50.889 --> 00:15:53.590
probably the reason is, I don't know anything

00:15:53.590 --> 00:15:55.970
about Emirati, but I guess like many of these

00:15:55.970 --> 00:15:58.610
Arab tribes, their diets were like a very...

00:15:58.879 --> 00:16:02.159
desert surviving kind of diet. Like, I don't

00:16:02.159 --> 00:16:04.580
know, maybe it's a similar problem to what happened

00:16:04.580 --> 00:16:07.799
in the Nordic countries before the Nordic movement,

00:16:08.000 --> 00:16:10.860
that their traditions were potatoes and sausages

00:16:10.860 --> 00:16:13.940
for, in this case, for religious reasons, but

00:16:13.940 --> 00:16:16.700
in the other case can be like for survival reasons.

00:16:16.840 --> 00:16:19.340
I don't know. It would be interesting to check

00:16:19.340 --> 00:16:24.289
on that. Yeah, definitely. But also, you know,

00:16:24.330 --> 00:16:27.750
the Dubai market is, you know, just to a very

00:16:27.750 --> 00:16:29.870
small amount made up of locals. I mean, I would

00:16:29.870 --> 00:16:32.809
say like maximum 50%, right? And the other 50

00:16:32.809 --> 00:16:36.169
% are expats, if not more, I think, in your general

00:16:36.169 --> 00:16:39.490
populace of like your customer base. You know,

00:16:39.509 --> 00:16:41.750
like now you have a lot more restaurants that

00:16:41.750 --> 00:16:43.970
are breaking out of that. But that is also only

00:16:43.970 --> 00:16:48.639
possible because bit by bit. people have become

00:16:48.639 --> 00:16:50.899
more educated about food so all these restaurants

00:16:50.899 --> 00:16:53.440
that did a very specific style and they're all

00:16:53.440 --> 00:16:55.820
always kind of like we do this this this this

00:16:55.820 --> 00:16:57.840
this because we know people like it and then

00:16:57.840 --> 00:16:59.620
little by little the other day we talked about

00:16:59.620 --> 00:17:02.840
gently educating customers you know and little

00:17:02.840 --> 00:17:04.420
by little things get introduced a little bit

00:17:04.420 --> 00:17:06.220
here a little bit there like for example here

00:17:06.220 --> 00:17:10.160
in the arab world people don't necessarily like

00:17:10.160 --> 00:17:13.319
eating raw food meat is always cooked medium

00:17:13.319 --> 00:17:16.700
well to well done No blood. It's, you know, for

00:17:16.700 --> 00:17:18.960
religious reasons. And they don't eat raw food.

00:17:19.099 --> 00:17:23.079
So beef tataki, no way. Sashimi, no way, you

00:17:23.079 --> 00:17:26.559
know. So, but little by little, you kind of teach

00:17:26.559 --> 00:17:29.500
them. You show them, you know. For religious

00:17:29.500 --> 00:17:31.380
reasons, obviously, you know, hey, nothing to

00:17:31.380 --> 00:17:33.319
teach, nothing to show, right? That's your choice.

00:17:33.579 --> 00:17:36.339
But if it's just something learned and you're

00:17:36.339 --> 00:17:37.839
kind of like, well, I'm not really used to it.

00:17:37.900 --> 00:17:39.359
I feel like maybe it's kind of gross and you're

00:17:39.359 --> 00:17:41.180
sort of like, well, give it a try. Maybe I'll

00:17:41.180 --> 00:17:43.259
put it in a way, maybe instead of cooking the

00:17:43.259 --> 00:17:45.869
salmon, I'll torch it. It's half raw. And then

00:17:45.869 --> 00:17:47.609
you eat it and you're like, this is very nice,

00:17:47.670 --> 00:17:50.269
you know, and then kind of you build up to it.

00:17:50.650 --> 00:17:53.309
And nowadays we have so many restaurants emerging

00:17:53.309 --> 00:17:55.250
that are breaking out of this and that are more

00:17:55.250 --> 00:17:57.869
restaurants that I like to go to. Small places

00:17:57.869 --> 00:18:02.329
that are not focused on a big vibe, party, luxury,

00:18:02.650 --> 00:18:05.289
whatever, you know, like you have to have a DJ,

00:18:05.410 --> 00:18:08.069
whatever. But they're just about go. It's really

00:18:08.069 --> 00:18:10.269
good food. It's really good drinks. It's good

00:18:10.269 --> 00:18:13.289
service. It's a nice atmosphere. And like, that's

00:18:13.289 --> 00:18:15.009
it. But yeah, like I said, it's only possible

00:18:15.009 --> 00:18:17.869
because you had years of kind of building up

00:18:17.869 --> 00:18:19.809
to that. If people would have come here five,

00:18:20.009 --> 00:18:22.309
six, 10 years ago, and they would have said,

00:18:22.329 --> 00:18:25.150
I'm going to open a small Mexican place with

00:18:25.150 --> 00:18:29.529
just like mariscos and tostadas and blood for

00:18:29.529 --> 00:18:31.970
like a hundred people, people would have told

00:18:31.970 --> 00:18:33.630
you, you're crazy. Like, okay, where are you

00:18:33.630 --> 00:18:35.650
going to put the DJ? Where are you going to,

00:18:35.650 --> 00:18:37.269
you're not going to have bottle service. Are

00:18:37.269 --> 00:18:39.049
you crazy? You're not going to last a year, you

00:18:39.049 --> 00:18:41.589
know? So I think to answer your question, kind

00:18:41.589 --> 00:18:43.690
of like go sidetracked a little bit, but I think

00:18:43.690 --> 00:18:45.390
we're in a super exciting time gastronomically

00:18:45.390 --> 00:18:47.569
because there's such a big variety. People know

00:18:47.569 --> 00:18:49.849
much more what's going on. People are also not

00:18:49.849 --> 00:18:52.609
afraid to kind of stick to what they like. And

00:18:52.609 --> 00:18:54.029
it's sort of like, hey, if I want to eat big

00:18:54.029 --> 00:18:55.670
steaks and I want them well done, you know, I

00:18:55.670 --> 00:18:57.710
know that I can go somewhere where like I can

00:18:57.710 --> 00:19:00.390
get that and I can get that at a good price.

00:19:00.569 --> 00:19:02.470
In my restaurant, for example, like you can go

00:19:02.470 --> 00:19:04.450
and you can have a well done steak. That's not

00:19:04.450 --> 00:19:07.220
shit because it's important that... You're kind

00:19:07.220 --> 00:19:08.440
of like, well, if you want to eat well -done

00:19:08.440 --> 00:19:11.059
sticklets, at least try to make it, let me at

00:19:11.059 --> 00:19:13.700
least try to source a meat that makes it not

00:19:13.700 --> 00:19:16.819
completely inedible. Dude, recently I had some

00:19:16.819 --> 00:19:21.339
guests on a food tour and it really hurt me because

00:19:21.339 --> 00:19:25.440
they were like, at some point on the tour, I

00:19:25.440 --> 00:19:27.859
explained how the fish is grilled here and some

00:19:27.859 --> 00:19:29.700
traditional dishes, how they're cooked and how

00:19:29.700 --> 00:19:32.839
the chuleta is cooked. And basically that here,

00:19:33.160 --> 00:19:38.660
the chuleta is rare. Like red, you know, like

00:19:38.660 --> 00:19:41.980
almost bleeding. And they told me like, and I

00:19:41.980 --> 00:19:43.740
explained the whole process because it's not

00:19:43.740 --> 00:19:45.200
like something common sense the way it's done.

00:19:45.319 --> 00:19:48.380
And there are some reasons. And for me, it's

00:19:48.380 --> 00:19:51.039
my favorite way to eat meat. They told me just

00:19:51.039 --> 00:19:53.200
the day before they were at Casa Julian, one

00:19:53.200 --> 00:19:55.220
of the best steakhouses in the world. And they

00:19:55.220 --> 00:19:58.019
didn't like it because their meat was very rare.

00:19:58.140 --> 00:20:00.859
And I was heartbroken, you know, because it was

00:20:00.859 --> 00:20:04.309
like, dude, like you go to Casa Julian. And they

00:20:04.309 --> 00:20:07.049
told me, like, after you explain here the whole

00:20:07.049 --> 00:20:09.470
thing, now we understand because everything you

00:20:09.470 --> 00:20:12.170
said is exactly how it was. You know, it was

00:20:12.170 --> 00:20:14.849
red, but warm and soft and only salt and this

00:20:14.849 --> 00:20:17.670
and that. Sometimes eating something without

00:20:17.670 --> 00:20:21.309
context or without understanding gives you a

00:20:21.309 --> 00:20:23.630
bad experience. Maybe just a little explanation

00:20:23.630 --> 00:20:27.240
will help you. to enjoy it, you know, especially

00:20:27.240 --> 00:20:30.799
if it's something new and unknown for you. And

00:20:30.799 --> 00:20:33.519
I think what you just said is not a process exclusive

00:20:33.519 --> 00:20:37.900
to Dubai. I would say in the whole Western world,

00:20:38.019 --> 00:20:40.819
like learning how to eat sushi in the last decades,

00:20:40.980 --> 00:20:43.799
that was a process, you know, like being afraid

00:20:43.799 --> 00:20:48.339
of raw fish and to the point that today sushi

00:20:48.339 --> 00:20:50.839
is more trendy than ever. I know this because

00:20:50.839 --> 00:20:54.690
I was looking on some trend research tools. And

00:20:54.690 --> 00:20:59.569
it went from mid -end to casual restaurants to

00:20:59.569 --> 00:21:02.750
now to cheap food that you find everywhere, at

00:21:02.750 --> 00:21:05.269
least in the States. So it has become like, it's

00:21:05.269 --> 00:21:07.609
more trendy than ever and it's more consumed

00:21:07.609 --> 00:21:10.849
than ever in America, which is, you know, today,

00:21:11.069 --> 00:21:13.730
2025, which is very interesting, you know? Yeah,

00:21:13.750 --> 00:21:16.190
absolutely. It's a learning process. Sometimes

00:21:16.190 --> 00:21:18.190
you just have to give things another go. But

00:21:18.190 --> 00:21:20.529
like, I also love the fact that things don't

00:21:20.529 --> 00:21:22.450
have to change that much. You know, the whole

00:21:22.450 --> 00:21:26.279
sort of like, american chinese thing where settlers

00:21:26.279 --> 00:21:28.220
come they have to change their food for like

00:21:28.220 --> 00:21:30.740
the local taste that's something like while that's

00:21:30.740 --> 00:21:33.900
also valid and fine and also important like for

00:21:33.900 --> 00:21:35.460
example here i have a friend who just opened

00:21:35.460 --> 00:21:37.500
a mexican place and they make all the food less

00:21:37.500 --> 00:21:40.339
spicy because they know that if they make it

00:21:40.339 --> 00:21:42.700
too spicy all the locals are going to complain

00:21:42.700 --> 00:21:44.339
because they don't have a culture of eating very

00:21:44.339 --> 00:21:47.799
spicy right yeah but while that's like a necessity

00:21:47.799 --> 00:21:50.940
and it's also like not bad because american chinese

00:21:50.940 --> 00:21:53.279
food is cool Like the stuff that came out of

00:21:53.279 --> 00:21:55.480
it is cool. You know, it's like a different thing.

00:21:55.519 --> 00:21:57.759
Is it traditional Chinese? No. Right. But it's

00:21:57.759 --> 00:22:00.000
like a new thing. And that's totally cool and

00:22:00.000 --> 00:22:01.819
fine as well. And it's super interesting. But

00:22:01.819 --> 00:22:03.920
at the same time, I'm super happy that we're

00:22:03.920 --> 00:22:06.559
in a time where there's also places that don't

00:22:06.559 --> 00:22:09.180
feel like they need to change anything. For example,

00:22:09.180 --> 00:22:11.960
in Berlin, there's a place called Labkoi and

00:22:11.960 --> 00:22:14.299
they cook Thai food. They're very, very outspoken.

00:22:14.319 --> 00:22:15.940
I think they even have like a sign on the door

00:22:15.940 --> 00:22:20.559
that says, if you don't like spicy food. Maybe

00:22:20.559 --> 00:22:22.819
consider going somewhere else because we're not

00:22:22.819 --> 00:22:26.220
going to change the recipes to your liking. We're

00:22:26.220 --> 00:22:28.480
going to make them exactly how they are supposed

00:22:28.480 --> 00:22:31.400
to be made, but they will be spicy. If you don't

00:22:31.400 --> 00:22:33.059
want spicy food, maybe this isn't the place for

00:22:33.059 --> 00:22:35.960
you. And I love that. Some people are outraged

00:22:35.960 --> 00:22:37.420
by that because they're sort of like, why can't

00:22:37.420 --> 00:22:38.920
you make it less spicy for me? I don't like spicy

00:22:38.920 --> 00:22:41.339
food. But then again, we're in the same territory

00:22:41.339 --> 00:22:43.220
like we were last time. We're kind of like, well.

00:22:43.900 --> 00:22:46.000
why do you go to a sushi place and ask for pizza?

00:22:46.339 --> 00:22:48.420
Why would you go to a northern Thai place and

00:22:48.420 --> 00:22:51.420
ask for things that are not spicy? Not ask for

00:22:51.420 --> 00:22:52.759
things that are not spicy, because there are

00:22:52.759 --> 00:22:54.839
things on the menu that are less spicy. But if

00:22:54.839 --> 00:22:57.279
you ask for the jungle curry that's made a specific

00:22:57.279 --> 00:22:59.839
way with specific chilies, specific quantities,

00:23:00.079 --> 00:23:03.160
that it says it's very spicy, and you say, hey,

00:23:03.200 --> 00:23:05.619
can you make it less spicy? It doesn't work like

00:23:05.619 --> 00:23:08.359
that. You can't order the Wagyu steak and tell

00:23:08.359 --> 00:23:10.559
me, please make it less fatty. It just doesn't

00:23:10.559 --> 00:23:14.400
work. We had a complaint. It was sort of like

00:23:14.400 --> 00:23:17.839
I ordered the A5 Japanese Wagyu. I ordered the

00:23:17.839 --> 00:23:21.279
A5 Japanese Wagyu and it was too fatty. Ignorance

00:23:21.279 --> 00:23:24.480
is very daring, my friend. Hey, Phil, have you

00:23:24.480 --> 00:23:27.420
subscribed to our newsletter yet? We have a newsletter?

00:23:27.799 --> 00:23:30.740
What's a newsletter about, Eric? Every month

00:23:30.740 --> 00:23:33.119
we share one cool thing from the world of food

00:23:33.119 --> 00:23:36.019
and restaurants and occasionally a recipe we

00:23:36.019 --> 00:23:39.140
swore we'd never share. Like your secret boiled

00:23:39.140 --> 00:23:42.359
egg lemon tart recipe. But Eric, that was my

00:23:42.359 --> 00:23:46.039
grandma's secret recipe. Not anymore. Subscribe

00:23:46.039 --> 00:23:48.980
to our newsletter where we unveil all of Phil's

00:23:48.980 --> 00:23:54.680
grandmother's secrets. So this whole conversation

00:23:54.680 --> 00:23:57.720
brings me to a question from one of our listeners

00:23:57.720 --> 00:24:00.059
that I know you are going to like very much.

00:24:00.180 --> 00:24:03.460
He says, how do you not fall into the trap of

00:24:03.460 --> 00:24:06.640
gentrifying traditional food? What are your thoughts

00:24:06.640 --> 00:24:10.700
on this one? My thoughts on this question are

00:24:10.700 --> 00:24:14.099
that I don't understand the question. To me,

00:24:14.119 --> 00:24:16.799
it sounds like a nonsense question. The trap.

00:24:17.019 --> 00:24:20.319
What's the trap? You know, what is the trap?

00:24:21.279 --> 00:24:24.019
What does it mean to... What does it mean to

00:24:24.019 --> 00:24:27.400
gentrify a traditional dish? It's such a wide

00:24:27.400 --> 00:24:29.920
thing. I do get it. I do get it. At least like

00:24:29.920 --> 00:24:33.759
this is my take on that one. I think this is

00:24:33.759 --> 00:24:35.960
like what we talk about on the Barcelona episode

00:24:35.960 --> 00:24:38.759
where I mentioned that suddenly like a whole

00:24:38.759 --> 00:24:42.619
neighborhood becomes populated by expats who

00:24:42.619 --> 00:24:44.920
speak English and all the traditional places

00:24:44.920 --> 00:24:48.960
are gone. And then some traditions start to become

00:24:48.960 --> 00:24:54.980
designed to cater. this audience right like and

00:24:54.980 --> 00:24:57.460
the traditional catalan place you won't find

00:24:57.460 --> 00:25:00.019
them in those neighborhoods anymore even though

00:25:00.019 --> 00:25:03.000
it's in the middle of the capital of catalonia

00:25:03.000 --> 00:25:07.240
like i guess this is uh the point i didn't read

00:25:07.240 --> 00:25:08.859
it i didn't read it like that at all actually

00:25:08.859 --> 00:25:11.640
i the way that i read the question sort of like

00:25:11.640 --> 00:25:16.279
if you make a modern version of traditional food

00:25:16.279 --> 00:25:20.509
how do you not gentrify that food When you're

00:25:20.509 --> 00:25:23.829
taking it out of the traditional framework. That's

00:25:23.829 --> 00:25:26.309
also an interesting point because it's a way

00:25:26.309 --> 00:25:28.910
you understand traditions, right? Like I think

00:25:28.910 --> 00:25:32.789
I was recently talking with John Reggefalk, who

00:25:32.789 --> 00:25:37.089
recently returned from a trip to China. And he

00:25:37.089 --> 00:25:39.950
tells me that what he saw there, he has really

00:25:39.950 --> 00:25:43.150
the feeling that many places where he ate, that

00:25:43.150 --> 00:25:46.559
this chef, they do only one thing. And, you know,

00:25:46.599 --> 00:25:48.740
like a special whatever, a special soup or a

00:25:48.740 --> 00:25:52.839
special, like in this little vending, vending,

00:25:52.839 --> 00:25:54.900
no, like this little food vendors, you know,

00:25:54.920 --> 00:25:56.980
like, and they do that to perfection. And they

00:25:56.980 --> 00:25:59.460
probably learned that from some master that taught

00:25:59.460 --> 00:26:01.539
them how to do that. And probably that's the

00:26:01.539 --> 00:26:04.099
only thing they know how to do, like very good.

00:26:04.160 --> 00:26:06.460
And they're not thinking about changing anything

00:26:06.460 --> 00:26:11.599
or innovating or being creative or pushing boundaries

00:26:11.599 --> 00:26:15.599
or anything. And that's. 100 % traditional and

00:26:15.599 --> 00:26:19.099
who knows how old that tradition is or where

00:26:19.099 --> 00:26:23.160
it evolved from, right? I guess it's that versus

00:26:23.160 --> 00:26:29.059
doing a paella with Oreo or recently I saw dude

00:26:29.059 --> 00:26:34.480
like a savory black ink, like a squid ink cheesecake

00:26:34.480 --> 00:26:43.980
with fried calamari on top. You know, like. That's

00:26:43.980 --> 00:26:48.920
horrible. Yes. It was like a black cheesecake

00:26:48.920 --> 00:26:52.400
with fried calamari on top. And that's like,

00:26:52.700 --> 00:26:55.400
yeah, there are many heresies happening on that

00:26:55.400 --> 00:26:59.700
one at the same time, you know? Oh my God, that's

00:26:59.700 --> 00:27:02.240
horrible. Just to kind of clarify, the meaning

00:27:02.240 --> 00:27:05.240
of gentrification, the process whereby the character

00:27:05.240 --> 00:27:08.079
of a poor urban area is changed by wealthier

00:27:08.079 --> 00:27:10.440
people moving in. improving housing attracting

00:27:10.440 --> 00:27:12.960
new businesses often displacing current inhabitants

00:27:12.960 --> 00:27:16.980
of the process so i think maybe the word gentrification

00:27:16.980 --> 00:27:19.759
is poorly chosen when you're talking about traditional

00:27:19.759 --> 00:27:22.619
food because gentrification the term has nothing

00:27:22.619 --> 00:27:24.920
to do with you know it has very much to do with

00:27:24.920 --> 00:27:27.660
an area and the ecosystem there you know the

00:27:27.660 --> 00:27:30.180
urban ecosystem so that's why i kind of read

00:27:30.180 --> 00:27:32.240
the question like that what's a fine line to

00:27:32.240 --> 00:27:34.779
to walk and it's also something that i don't

00:27:34.779 --> 00:27:39.349
think that can be generalized right If I make

00:27:39.349 --> 00:27:41.690
a modern version of a German dish, right? Okay,

00:27:41.730 --> 00:27:44.769
German, okay, German, maybe bad example. I make

00:27:44.769 --> 00:27:47.789
a modern version of a traditional Oaxacan dish

00:27:47.789 --> 00:27:52.309
as a Mexican chef. Am I gentrifying this Oaxacan

00:27:52.309 --> 00:27:54.829
tradition? Or am I just making something? Am

00:27:54.829 --> 00:27:57.210
I just like making something that I feel like

00:27:57.210 --> 00:28:00.769
making? Is the line that if I'm not Mexican,

00:28:00.950 --> 00:28:05.470
if I'm from, let's say, Chile or Peru? Am I then

00:28:05.470 --> 00:28:07.309
gentrifying it by making something that's not

00:28:07.309 --> 00:28:09.630
my quotation marks, my own culture? But like,

00:28:09.650 --> 00:28:11.809
where do we stop? If I'm Mexican, but I'm not

00:28:11.809 --> 00:28:14.829
from Oaxaca, am I then stepping over the line?

00:28:14.910 --> 00:28:16.269
Like, where do you draw the line? I feel this

00:28:16.269 --> 00:28:19.150
is very, very personal, like impossible to say.

00:28:19.329 --> 00:28:21.990
We talked about it previously. I think that if

00:28:21.990 --> 00:28:25.250
you're respectful of traditions and appreciative,

00:28:25.470 --> 00:28:27.789
you come from a place of appreciation, just do

00:28:27.789 --> 00:28:29.690
whatever the fuck you want. Food is an expression.

00:28:30.299 --> 00:28:32.819
Just make something that excites you, that you

00:28:32.819 --> 00:28:34.500
think is cool. It doesn't matter if the other

00:28:34.500 --> 00:28:37.200
people think it's cool. I mean, it does if they're

00:28:37.200 --> 00:28:40.680
your customers, maybe a little bit. But man,

00:28:40.759 --> 00:28:43.430
just fuck that. This whole conversation brings

00:28:43.430 --> 00:28:44.950
me to the thought, like, you were just talking

00:28:44.950 --> 00:28:47.569
about Chinese -American, which is its own thing,

00:28:47.609 --> 00:28:50.390
and it's different from Chinese from China, or

00:28:50.390 --> 00:28:54.829
Japanese from Peru, or even like the false soup

00:28:54.829 --> 00:28:57.990
in Vietnam, which was created to cater foreigners

00:28:57.990 --> 00:29:01.069
who would prefer beef instead of pork or chicken.

00:29:01.410 --> 00:29:04.769
So they started doing like this beef soups for

00:29:04.769 --> 00:29:07.569
the French that were living in Vietnam, and today...

00:29:07.960 --> 00:29:10.940
So that's already like an example of gentrification

00:29:10.940 --> 00:29:15.299
that generated a new tradition. I think like

00:29:15.299 --> 00:29:18.119
traditions, especially in food, is something

00:29:18.119 --> 00:29:20.980
evolving just like language, you know, like just

00:29:20.980 --> 00:29:24.160
like a word becomes trendy and everybody starts

00:29:24.160 --> 00:29:28.819
using it or an expression or a slang. I guess

00:29:28.819 --> 00:29:31.920
like the same happens with recipes that go from.

00:29:32.569 --> 00:29:35.670
from someone to another or a restaurant to another,

00:29:35.910 --> 00:29:40.269
and they nourish themselves with influences of,

00:29:40.490 --> 00:29:44.769
yeah, like plating trends or cooking technique

00:29:44.769 --> 00:29:49.430
trends, but being anchored in the archetype of

00:29:49.430 --> 00:29:52.569
the traditional one, but just doing, like, new

00:29:52.569 --> 00:29:55.950
twists around it. And I think that's how it works

00:29:55.950 --> 00:29:58.269
and how it always has worked, like, since the

00:29:58.269 --> 00:30:00.890
beginning of cooking, you know? Absolutely. It's

00:30:00.890 --> 00:30:02.470
like, you know, but it's kind of like, well,

00:30:02.589 --> 00:30:05.769
if it's recent and if it's happening now, people

00:30:05.769 --> 00:30:08.609
seem to kind of, like, rate it differently than

00:30:08.609 --> 00:30:10.250
when it happened, like, a hundred years ago,

00:30:10.289 --> 00:30:12.329
which is not a long time ago. You know, like,

00:30:12.430 --> 00:30:14.509
you say, like, perfect example, you know, of,

00:30:14.589 --> 00:30:17.430
like, the beef soup or, like, banh mi, you know?

00:30:17.490 --> 00:30:21.660
Banh mi. Baguette. worldwide phenomenon everybody

00:30:21.660 --> 00:30:24.539
loves it vietnamese amazing what's in there it's

00:30:24.539 --> 00:30:27.200
baguette there's pate in there you know like

00:30:27.200 --> 00:30:29.339
and it's like well why do you think that happened

00:30:29.339 --> 00:30:32.400
because some french people came in and gentrified

00:30:32.400 --> 00:30:35.079
it's like the the area that was like okay cool

00:30:35.079 --> 00:30:37.099
there's good science there's good aspects to

00:30:37.099 --> 00:30:40.349
it that's actually what happened yeah of course

00:30:40.349 --> 00:30:42.069
it's like there's good sides to it there's bad

00:30:42.069 --> 00:30:44.309
sides to it but it's just like a part of the

00:30:44.309 --> 00:30:47.569
the world you know things are ever changing and

00:30:47.569 --> 00:30:50.769
evolving but if a chef nowadays says like hey

00:30:50.769 --> 00:30:52.849
i'm gonna make this traditional dish i'm gonna

00:30:52.849 --> 00:30:54.789
change it and suddenly people stuff like oh you're

00:30:54.789 --> 00:30:57.569
gentrifying the i don't know you know or like

00:30:57.569 --> 00:31:01.390
um somebody moves to a new country and says hey

00:31:01.390 --> 00:31:03.990
i'm gonna cook my food but i'm gonna use local

00:31:03.990 --> 00:31:05.990
ingredients and they're like well are you gentrifying

00:31:05.990 --> 00:31:08.940
the tradition it's like no I don't know. I don't

00:31:08.940 --> 00:31:11.759
see it like that. And I think food should be

00:31:11.759 --> 00:31:14.240
a form of expression. And I think people should

00:31:14.240 --> 00:31:16.440
be free to do whatever they want as long as they're

00:31:16.440 --> 00:31:18.240
respectful and come from a place of appreciation.

00:31:18.700 --> 00:31:21.539
I think people should just chill the fuck out

00:31:21.539 --> 00:31:24.200
a little bit more. Yeah. Stay in school, kids,

00:31:24.359 --> 00:31:35.549
and don't do drugs. After this fun... Fun, sound

00:31:35.549 --> 00:31:38.109
experience. It's time for our beloved segment,

00:31:38.390 --> 00:31:45.470
Go Fact Yourself. Go fact yourself. The cooking

00:31:45.470 --> 00:31:49.809
myth today is searing meat locks in the juices.

00:31:50.190 --> 00:31:52.269
I think this was already solved many years ago

00:31:52.269 --> 00:31:55.809
by Heston Blumenthal on his show. I think it

00:31:55.809 --> 00:31:58.349
was Gastronomic Lab or Culinary Lab. I don't

00:31:58.349 --> 00:32:00.190
remember the name, but that was the first time

00:32:00.190 --> 00:32:03.630
I first saw Heston Blumenthal ever. It wasn't

00:32:03.630 --> 00:32:05.849
a TV show. I was starting in culinary school

00:32:05.849 --> 00:32:08.269
at the moment. And I was like, oh, that guy,

00:32:08.589 --> 00:32:12.849
he looks pretty legit. And so I Googled who he

00:32:12.849 --> 00:32:15.190
was, and suddenly that year it was best restaurant

00:32:15.190 --> 00:32:16.910
in the world, and he had three Michelin stars.

00:32:17.210 --> 00:32:19.509
And I was like, what the fuck? I thought it was

00:32:19.509 --> 00:32:21.829
just a TV show, you know, like with some chef

00:32:21.829 --> 00:32:25.730
doing stuff. Some random geeky, geeky scientist.

00:32:25.750 --> 00:32:27.329
Yeah, exactly, like whatever, you know. Suddenly

00:32:27.329 --> 00:32:29.069
it was the best chef of the world with three

00:32:29.069 --> 00:32:31.150
mission stars. Yeah, he did an experiment on

00:32:31.150 --> 00:32:33.710
that. I think he even overseered a piece of meat

00:32:33.710 --> 00:32:37.430
with a torch, you know, like he burned it and

00:32:37.430 --> 00:32:40.450
then he squeezed both pieces and he measured

00:32:40.450 --> 00:32:43.950
the juices coming out and at the end the result

00:32:43.950 --> 00:32:46.880
was it's bullshit. All right, before we reveal

00:32:46.880 --> 00:32:49.680
the answer, dear listener, now is your time to

00:32:49.680 --> 00:32:53.779
give us the response. All right, cue your answer

00:32:53.779 --> 00:32:59.039
in three, two, one. All right, if you said that

00:32:59.039 --> 00:33:02.160
it's true, then I feel sorry for you. It's definitely

00:33:02.160 --> 00:33:04.720
not true. It's been proven by now, scientifically,

00:33:05.019 --> 00:33:09.500
that searing meat actually makes it lose more

00:33:09.500 --> 00:33:12.500
juices than other cooking methods. You know,

00:33:12.559 --> 00:33:15.680
I think by searing meats, it loses about like

00:33:15.680 --> 00:33:18.680
six to 10 % of its juice. Brings to question,

00:33:18.839 --> 00:33:21.759
which doesn't mean that something seared or searing

00:33:21.759 --> 00:33:24.420
something makes it not juicy, right? But what

00:33:24.420 --> 00:33:26.220
happens is when we sear something, especially

00:33:26.220 --> 00:33:27.900
meats, you know, there's something that's called

00:33:27.900 --> 00:33:30.440
the Maya reaction. That's the reason why you

00:33:30.440 --> 00:33:35.430
sear it. That's the reason why you sear it. By

00:33:35.430 --> 00:33:40.009
browning it, you're generating pure, juicy deliciousness.

00:33:40.089 --> 00:33:44.089
Well, not juicy, like more dry, but pure deliciousness.

00:33:44.230 --> 00:33:46.589
And that's what you want. Yeah, it's interesting,

00:33:46.829 --> 00:33:51.289
actually. My reaction creates a... a literal

00:33:51.289 --> 00:33:54.450
reaction between amino acids and sugars and the

00:33:54.450 --> 00:33:57.170
surface of whatever you're browning and it makes

00:33:57.170 --> 00:34:00.049
certain compounds that were not tasty or had

00:34:00.049 --> 00:34:03.450
no taste at all suddenly tasty for us like biologically

00:34:03.450 --> 00:34:06.349
and like thousands of compounds that combine

00:34:06.349 --> 00:34:10.369
they generate this as distinctive aromas that

00:34:10.369 --> 00:34:14.329
you find in for example roasted meat or roasted

00:34:14.329 --> 00:34:18.599
whatever And there you go. Just another example

00:34:18.599 --> 00:34:20.920
of earlier talking about modernist cuisine that

00:34:20.920 --> 00:34:23.679
a little bit of scientific knowledge goes a long

00:34:23.679 --> 00:34:26.380
way. Put down the joint, open a book once in

00:34:26.380 --> 00:34:30.480
a while, and go fact yourself. Wrong about cooking.

00:34:31.980 --> 00:34:33.739
Don't get mad, get factual.
