WEBVTT

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Hi, everyone. Welcome to Pot Luck Food Talks,

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the show where professional cooks trade stories,

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weird opinions, and bad ideas that everybody

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likes. My name is Eric. I'm here with Phil. I

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wanted to talk about El Bulli, man. What are

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your ideas about El Bulli? Do you support the

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claim that it's the most influential restaurant

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ever? Do you believe that? Do you think that's

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truth or not? But before that... You're listening

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to Heritage Radio Network. Ever is a big word,

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right? Okay, 21st century. I would say so, for

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sure. El Bouy has shaped modern gastronomy, especially

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in the Michelin realm, immensely. Immensely.

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I mean, undoubtedly so. together with, you know,

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the movements in France, the new avant -garde,

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the nouvelle cuisine, El Puy. It's crazy. So

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many restaurants that function like the way that

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they are now, the designs that have come out

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of it, the techniques, so much stems from El

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Puy, I think, more than people realize. Yeah,

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I completely agree. And so I was going to ask

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you, like, what, like, in terms of restaurant

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systems? But like the central table for mise

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en place, like in modern kitchens, that's something

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that was coined by them. Like having like a long

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prep table where if you have 12, 15, 20 cooks,

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everybody's doing the same thing. So if there

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is a potato to be peeled, everybody peels potatoes

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and there they're done. and then the next thing,

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and the next thing, and the next thing. And I

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remember doing this at Mugaritz, and all of the

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restaurants that stemmed out of El Bulli used

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this approach. And I think it's very useful because,

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especially with large teams, with smaller teams,

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maybe not, but it's this feedback you get right

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away of, oh, no, you're doing it wrong, or you're

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too slow, or you're faster, because the whole

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team works like an engine, you know, like a production

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machine that is... Doing whatever. I mentioned

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peeling potatoes, but it can be very complicated

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stuff like, I don't know, deboning a squab or

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something like that. You know, like this kind

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of thing that it's better to have someone who

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knows how to do it just in front of you and watch

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closely and imitate. Yeah, absolutely. I also,

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I really liked that when I was in Mucaritz. It's

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a very interesting style of prep. I don't see

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it that much anymore, honestly, but it definitely

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has its place. And yeah, for sure, it stems from

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El Bui. And it's cool, you know, like to have

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this like prep table and to, you know, like you're

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like Frenching a French trimming a rack of suckling

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pig. and everybody wants to do it the best and

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the cleanest and the fastest right and if you're

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working with fuckers like me you know you're

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having a really bad time because i'm going to

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be like i'm going to look at your rack of rack

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of cycling pick i'm going to be like chef you

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wanna you want to revisit that or like you we

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used to have competitions about it you know who

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could do it the fastest we would do the cleanest

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pushes yourself also you know But also everybody's

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involved. Everybody's on the same level. Kevin

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was your nemesis. Nah, man, I didn't really have

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that with Kevin, unfortunately. I mean, fortunately

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for me, I guess, because Kevin is a fucking machine.

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My two biggest peers were Iñaki Mbolumburu and

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Santiago... Mr. Amalur. Shout out to him. Great

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cook, great guy. And Santiago Lastra, who now

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owns Col in London. He's got a Michelin star

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and he's doing modern or contemporary with a

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strong basis on fermentation of Mexican food,

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which I think is super interesting. It's basically

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Mexican Noma in London. He's like the Gagan of

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Mexican food, you know. But talking about Noma,

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Noma, again, super influential, right? One of

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the most influential restaurants of our time.

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Also, I would say Noma is definitely up there

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when you talk about one of the most influential

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restaurants of our time, when we talk about avant

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-garde cooking and Michelin star cooking and

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stuff like that. But Rene Redzepi was a stagiaire

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in El Puy and then went back to open Noma together

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with Klaus Meyer and a lot of the systems that

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were, you know. Adapted there, they came from

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El Bouy, like the prep, the stagies, the kitchen

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layout, you know, the menu setup. He also stashed

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out the French Laundry, which I think is like

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a very interesting combination, going to both

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of these restaurants that both have like this

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strong traditions and systems and stuff, and

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combining it with a complete different approach,

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because Naumann has nothing to do with El Bouy

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or French Laundry in terms of their conceptual

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proposal. You know, it's like a... Like a complete

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different direction. Hey, Phil, have you subscribed

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to our newsletter yet? We have a newsletter?

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What's a newsletter about, Eric? Every month

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we share one cool thing from the world of food

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and restaurants and occasionally a recipe we

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swore we'd never share. Like your secret boiled

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egg lemon tart recipe. But Eric, that was my

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grandma's secret recipe. Not anymore. Subscribe

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to our newsletter where we unveil all of Phil's

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grandmother's secrets. When did you discover

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El Bulli? Do you remember that? Like the first

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time you heard about it or you saw it or anything?

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Yeah, I do actually. I was already like very

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into cooking even before I started cooking. I

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think I must have been like 14. I was already

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informing myself about so much regarding cooking.

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And I was in the process of coming to the conclusion

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that I wanted to become a professional chef.

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I was considering a couple of other things. And

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El Bulli, like I grew up in Spain. El Bulli,

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obviously a big name. I don't really remember

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how I found out about them, but I got like really

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fascinated by this idea. And my parents got me

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one of the El Bouy books as a present. So I was

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already in my like teenage room before I ever

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started to cook. Okay, but you mentioned like

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this idea. What is this idea? And secondly, of

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course, which book? So the book was A Day in

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El Bouy. I don't know if you know it. Ah. Of

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course, I have it. This idea of cooking as a

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very high craft with no boundaries. I mean, a

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couple of boundaries, obviously, but boundaries

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that can definitely also be broken. And I thought

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it was fascinating. I was fascinated by somebody

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taking steps into the unknown with the basis

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of cooking. craft that they were doing right

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rooted in tradition rooted in nature and just

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going going beyond and i remember like reading

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this book and being so fascinated by the fact

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that you you know what a restaurant is like you

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go in you prep you have service you do it all

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over again and the way that they were sort of

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like describing how the creative development

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worked how the day is set up you know the chefs

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come in they do their prep how the kitchen is

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set up how the menus are set up how they do the

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dish tastings et cetera, et cetera. I just thought

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it was fascinating. In my case, I was even thinking

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about becoming a chef. I did like a cook course

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with a relatively famous chef. Well, not actually

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a well -known chef in Venezuela, Elena Ibarra.

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And this was like a show cooking course, you

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know, like she would cook with an assistant and

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there were like six people or... maybe eight

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or ten, sitting at a bar counter, and she would

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cook and explain, and so it was like half dinner,

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half course, show cooking kind of thing. And

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somebody asked her about Ferran Adria, and she

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was like, well, yeah, it's like a completely

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different approach, because I remember she literally

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saying, for example, if you get a tortilla, a

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potato omelette made by him, he will... break

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it apart and make a foam and put the potatoes

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on top and give it to you in a martini glass.

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And I thought this was like a metaphor, like

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whatever, like a thing. But that's an actual

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dish from El Bulli, you know, like it's one of

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the classics from El Bulli, which was not created

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by Ferran Adrià. He actually took it from Xavier

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de Sagristat, which is a legendary Catalan chef.

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But yeah, and I think that's a great finger food.

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I've had it like in... you know, like these cocktail

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events, and then these glasses arrive with this

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tortilla that you scoop from a martini glass,

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and it's super nice. But yeah, this idea of,

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at the beginning, he had this trend that he called,

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I'm talking about Ferran Adrià, the head chef

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at El Bulli, and maybe like the architect of

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these ideas, he would call it the construction.

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I heard that at the beginning, they would call

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it... Decomposition. Which sounds like Rotterdick.

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And they sound like that. Maybe that doesn't

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sound so good. So the idea is that you have a

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composition, you break it into parts, and you

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rebuild it in a different way. And that's something

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they would do a lot, especially in the 90s. And

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it's one of the signature thought stands from

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El Bulli, doing that. And, yeah, this idea of,

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like you say, like, for me, the first thing that

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came to my mind, yeah, was, like, modern art.

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Like, taking food and turning it into, like,

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these strange designs, and the dishes would look

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like sometimes, like, micro -ecosystems, or sometimes

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just, like, one item, and you would eat it. Not

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even a dish, but something that you would have,

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like, because they had, I don't know, like, it

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was a lot. I think it was, like... 30 courses

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per menu or something like that. And some of

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these courses were just a smell. They would give

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you something. You would smell it. Okay, next.

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And these things bring you to this journey of...

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and sensations and stuff that you offer. And

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I found that to be extremely interesting, especially

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as a culinary student. Yeah, absolutely. It's

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kind of like this school that's kind of like,

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well, why do we do certain things this way? Why

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can't it be something else? Why not? Let's explore

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that option. Also, like, obviously, we're talking

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about El Puy, we have to talk about Sosa and

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about all the ingredients and the techniques

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that were developed in that time that are now...

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Almost a staple standard in, you know, a vast

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amount of kitchens, you know, the use of xantana,

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of agar -agar, of lecithin, right? That came

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from the food industry rather than restaurants.

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And that is so commonplace now, you know, even

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in small neighborhood restaurants like wine bars

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and stuff, you'll find a tub of xantana or agar

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-agar or like whatever it is, soy lecithin. And

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it's crazy to think about the fact that they

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established that. At some point, they were prohibited

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in restaurants in Italy. I don't actually. Do

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you remember that? Yeah. They were banned. It

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was illegal. It was illegal to use Xantana in

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Italy. And you would see chefs burning. Yeah,

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we don't want this shit here. This is that. I

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don't know if that's still the case, but I remember

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reading that in the newspaper. This was in the

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mid -2000s. I don't remember that. It's definitely

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not the case anymore. I mean, so many of the

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Italian Michelin star chefs, for me, are so very

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decompositioned to a point where I'm sort of

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like, what is going on? It's such a normal thing

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to use now, like sherry vinegar. You have it

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in your cupboard. I remember at the beginning

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they had the... So they would commercialize all

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of these agents, like emulsify agents or thickening

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agents or all this kind of stuff that, as you

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say, they took it from the food industry. Maybe

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also one milestone we can forget about or ignore

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are the foams, you know, like these guys. I remember

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reading a quote, I don't remember from who, that

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said that innovation is seeing what everybody

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sees. and finding a way to use it nobody has

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ever done before, right? Or that could be an

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approach of innovation. And I think that's pretty

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much what they did. So there were these chantilly

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devices that you would use to whip cream, and

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you would add cream, and just add some CO2. What

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is it? No, it's not CO2. And then you have this

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chantilly foam. So using the same device, we're

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putting... potatoes or whatever even cod or corn

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and doing these foams with completely different

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things they just there were some rules that it

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needs to have like some protein some gelatin

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or some fat or in order to become a foam but

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yeah creating like like a whole new category

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of dishes that didn't exist previously and it's

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not like a huge boom for a while i think today

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it's already it's demo day like nobody those

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forms anymore i think or at least not the way

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they were being done 20 years ago i still do

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what are your opinions you brought up an interesting

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point it's sort of like oh it needs to have some

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protein needs to have a certain amount of fat

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our understanding of things that we have as chefs

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nowadays has deepened so much you know like for

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example One of the most famous dishes from El

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Bouilly, the carrot foam. And, you know, there's

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like this glass bowl that's like cut angular,

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you know, and it's sort of like foaming it up

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and it's like creating these sort of like soapy

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bubbles almost. And it's like, yeah, because

00:14:15.110 --> 00:14:18.029
carrot has a lot of natural lecithin, you know,

00:14:18.029 --> 00:14:20.129
and like nowadays I'm in the kitchen and I'm

00:14:20.129 --> 00:14:21.769
sort of like, yeah, you know, you can add a splash

00:14:21.769 --> 00:14:24.250
of milk because it has like, you know, it'll

00:14:24.250 --> 00:14:26.250
add like, you know, protein and lecithin to it

00:14:26.250 --> 00:14:28.899
and it'll foam up easier. You know, Noma did

00:14:28.899 --> 00:14:30.980
the same thing with fermentation, right? Like

00:14:30.980 --> 00:14:34.000
our knowledge as chefs with fermentation, enzymatic

00:14:34.000 --> 00:14:36.700
reactions, all that sort of stuff, you know,

00:14:36.740 --> 00:14:41.059
is so much vaster. And El Bouy did the same with

00:14:41.059 --> 00:14:43.419
these sorts of things, right? Like it deepened

00:14:43.419 --> 00:14:45.440
the understanding of what things actually are

00:14:45.440 --> 00:14:47.620
and not just taking them for granted. This almost

00:14:47.620 --> 00:14:50.080
scientific approach, some people can get into

00:14:50.080 --> 00:14:52.860
it, cool, you don't have to, but it has enriched

00:14:52.860 --> 00:14:54.820
our knowledge and our understanding of the craft

00:14:54.820 --> 00:14:58.090
itself. And that's pretty big. Phil! Did you

00:14:58.090 --> 00:15:01.090
know we've already made nine episodes of The

00:15:01.090 --> 00:15:04.549
Line? Oh, really? People sure love our crazy

00:15:04.549 --> 00:15:07.389
abuse stories working in restaurants. Yes, they

00:15:07.389 --> 00:15:10.149
do. But now we're interested in our listeners'

00:15:10.370 --> 00:15:13.730
stories. Oh, yay. I would love to listen to more

00:15:13.730 --> 00:15:16.110
crazy stories about people getting abused in

00:15:16.110 --> 00:15:18.929
restaurants. So if anything crazy ever happened

00:15:18.929 --> 00:15:21.529
to you working in professional kitchens, if you

00:15:21.529 --> 00:15:24.149
want people to make fun of your disgraces the

00:15:24.149 --> 00:15:27.590
same way we make fun of our disgraces, send us

00:15:27.590 --> 00:15:30.289
your stories from the line and we'll feature

00:15:30.289 --> 00:15:33.750
them on the show. DM us on Instagram, send it

00:15:33.750 --> 00:15:36.690
as a text or voice note. We'll share our favorite

00:15:36.690 --> 00:15:39.389
ones in the next Little Line episode. So keep

00:15:39.389 --> 00:15:42.570
it short and sweet. Because trauma brings people

00:15:42.570 --> 00:15:46.809
together. There are also like a lot of things

00:15:46.809 --> 00:15:49.649
we don't even think about that were coined or

00:15:49.649 --> 00:15:52.450
introduced or popularized by Bully. You know,

00:15:52.490 --> 00:15:56.269
like there's this documentary. It's like a extremely

00:15:56.269 --> 00:15:59.899
long documentary that is the whole. whole, whole,

00:15:59.899 --> 00:16:02.399
whole story of El Bulli, you know, like, because

00:16:02.399 --> 00:16:04.740
El Bulli started in, like, in the mid -70s. I

00:16:04.740 --> 00:16:06.559
don't know if even earlier, but, yeah, at the

00:16:06.559 --> 00:16:08.500
beginning, it was, like, just a restaurant next

00:16:08.500 --> 00:16:11.019
to the beach with grill, and then they started

00:16:11.019 --> 00:16:14.840
bringing chefs from France, and then the level

00:16:14.840 --> 00:16:16.279
got a little bit better and better and better,

00:16:16.440 --> 00:16:19.679
and then at some point, Ferran got there, and

00:16:19.679 --> 00:16:22.600
for some reason, very young, he became the head

00:16:22.600 --> 00:16:26.919
chef, I think in 1982, which is a while ago,

00:16:27.039 --> 00:16:29.960
you know, like a while. Way, way longer than

00:16:29.960 --> 00:16:32.299
we think about El Bulli. I think El Bulli started

00:16:32.299 --> 00:16:35.919
to become relevant 10 years later than that with

00:16:35.919 --> 00:16:39.840
the books of Mediterranean cuisine. And in 94,

00:16:39.960 --> 00:16:42.600
I think it was already like a top player, like

00:16:42.600 --> 00:16:45.399
a place people would talk about. I think 98,

00:16:45.559 --> 00:16:48.480
they got the third Michelin star and also some

00:16:48.480 --> 00:16:51.879
articles in the New York Times that made it.

00:16:52.039 --> 00:16:55.740
Yes. king of the culinary world for at least

00:16:55.740 --> 00:16:58.980
10 years after that. But yeah, like in the early

00:16:58.980 --> 00:17:03.259
phases, and in this documentary, they tell how

00:17:03.259 --> 00:17:06.000
they... So they claim in this documentary that

00:17:06.000 --> 00:17:09.599
they were the first one to do plated desserts

00:17:09.599 --> 00:17:12.869
like... Like we understand a plated dessert today.

00:17:13.009 --> 00:17:16.150
Not, you know, like cutting a cake slice and

00:17:16.150 --> 00:17:18.869
putting some dots of sauce around or having a

00:17:18.869 --> 00:17:22.710
bowl where you put like a peach melba, you know,

00:17:22.730 --> 00:17:24.369
like that. You put a marmalade and a bowl of

00:17:24.369 --> 00:17:26.690
ice on top. Like this kind of, no, I'm talking

00:17:26.690 --> 00:17:29.109
about like a composition, like a complex composition

00:17:29.109 --> 00:17:32.670
that you would usually only do for the savory

00:17:32.670 --> 00:17:36.549
cuisine and the sweet domain. I think that's

00:17:36.549 --> 00:17:39.460
a hard claim. to say that. And I can't think

00:17:39.460 --> 00:17:42.619
of a way to counter -argument it, saying, no,

00:17:42.700 --> 00:17:46.059
this and this person was already doing painting

00:17:46.059 --> 00:17:48.940
desserts in the 80s or something like that. So

00:17:48.940 --> 00:17:50.799
I think that's something interesting to check.

00:17:50.920 --> 00:17:54.279
Absolutely. And that's crazy. I mean, I'll buy

00:17:54.279 --> 00:17:57.920
it, honestly. And it's crazy to think about because

00:17:57.920 --> 00:18:00.279
that's something that we do so naturally. Now

00:18:00.279 --> 00:18:02.119
we kind of think about, when I start thinking

00:18:02.119 --> 00:18:05.400
about doing desserts... that are like not traditional

00:18:05.400 --> 00:18:07.319
you know i'm kind of like okay i started thinking

00:18:07.319 --> 00:18:09.039
about different components like an ice cream

00:18:09.039 --> 00:18:12.279
here this that blah and it's so natural and i

00:18:12.279 --> 00:18:15.400
mean that kind of brings us to another very very

00:18:15.400 --> 00:18:17.660
big very important point if we talk about el

00:18:17.660 --> 00:18:21.980
bui which is albert adria you know and the the

00:18:21.980 --> 00:18:25.140
impact that albert has has had on the culinary

00:18:25.140 --> 00:18:29.990
world not just with pastry is I think he coined

00:18:29.990 --> 00:18:32.670
the term sweet cuisine. This is not pastry. This

00:18:32.670 --> 00:18:35.150
is sweet cuisine, like cuisine on the sweet side.

00:18:35.390 --> 00:18:38.809
Also his book, The Desserts of El Bulli, that's

00:18:38.809 --> 00:18:41.789
like a super cool book. And this was written

00:18:41.789 --> 00:18:44.450
in the mid -90s as well. And it's a book you

00:18:44.450 --> 00:18:48.990
still can see and use. Well, he created, which

00:18:48.990 --> 00:18:51.230
is a recipe I actually learned for the first

00:18:51.230 --> 00:18:55.529
time from Michael Hopfel, which is a whipped

00:18:55.529 --> 00:18:58.430
crema catalana. So he came up with this stuff

00:18:58.430 --> 00:19:03.309
that you use. You do basically like a creme anglaise,

00:19:03.470 --> 00:19:08.349
but very fatty with only cream, only egg yolks.

00:19:08.589 --> 00:19:11.690
And then you whip it and the foam sets once you

00:19:11.690 --> 00:19:15.069
whip it with a KitchenAid. Or you can use also

00:19:15.069 --> 00:19:19.029
a whipping siphon. This is a pastry elaboration

00:19:19.029 --> 00:19:23.029
that a guy like Michael Heffel was doing just

00:19:23.029 --> 00:19:25.619
like that. So it's something that... chefs know

00:19:25.619 --> 00:19:29.700
and do is that like a you know like a new thing

00:19:29.700 --> 00:19:32.660
in the family of creme patissiere creme anglaise

00:19:32.660 --> 00:19:35.319
and now you have this in that family of elaborations

00:19:35.319 --> 00:19:37.660
and it was created by him and there is no discussion

00:19:37.660 --> 00:19:39.640
about that this is something people know yeah

00:19:39.640 --> 00:19:41.859
yeah absolutely i mean there's so many examples

00:19:41.859 --> 00:19:45.140
of that and it's nuts right i mean sort of like

00:19:45.140 --> 00:19:46.819
if somebody came to you right and it was sort

00:19:46.819 --> 00:19:49.660
of like hey here's a kitchen come up with a technique

00:19:49.660 --> 00:19:52.980
that's never been done before it's fucking difficult.

00:19:53.279 --> 00:19:55.799
I mean, go ahead and try, right? But people have

00:19:55.799 --> 00:19:58.160
been cooking for a long fucking time, and people

00:19:58.160 --> 00:19:59.799
have had a lot of fucking time on their hands.

00:20:00.200 --> 00:20:02.859
It's hard. Like, everything has been done before.

00:20:03.319 --> 00:20:05.619
What did El Bouy come up with? You know, it's

00:20:05.619 --> 00:20:08.009
kind of like... Right. It's sort of like the

00:20:08.009 --> 00:20:11.470
Coulant of Michel Bras, right? It's something

00:20:11.470 --> 00:20:13.829
that you see everywhere internationally now.

00:20:13.910 --> 00:20:15.990
It's like the most standard dessert in any sort

00:20:15.990 --> 00:20:18.089
of like bistro and, you know, it's packaged and

00:20:18.089 --> 00:20:20.890
frozen. In supermarkets. In airplanes, you get

00:20:20.890 --> 00:20:23.650
like a microwave Coulant, you know? Yeah, supermarkets,

00:20:23.730 --> 00:20:25.930
you know, you can just buy it. Like I've had

00:20:25.930 --> 00:20:29.170
Coulants in like little dive bars in Neukölln,

00:20:29.170 --> 00:20:32.009
right? Like it's fucking everywhere. And like,

00:20:32.009 --> 00:20:34.990
what did they do? Like spherification. Maybe

00:20:34.990 --> 00:20:37.470
they didn't invent it as a technique itself because

00:20:37.470 --> 00:20:41.730
it was part of the food industry, but as an application

00:20:41.730 --> 00:20:45.289
in a restaurant. Correct. I think that has the

00:20:45.289 --> 00:20:47.990
same merit. Taking something that was there all

00:20:47.990 --> 00:20:50.690
the time, like the whipping cream bottle, and

00:20:50.690 --> 00:20:55.490
using it, doing something that now you see wherever,

00:20:55.789 --> 00:20:59.869
that is a technique that... I think after the

00:20:59.869 --> 00:21:03.170
phone, it was second, like on that level of creating

00:21:03.170 --> 00:21:05.410
something that people reproduce all over the

00:21:05.410 --> 00:21:07.750
world. Absolutely. Absolutely. Like now that

00:21:07.750 --> 00:21:10.769
we're talking about it, what always fascinated

00:21:10.769 --> 00:21:13.309
me about El Buoy, because we can talk about all

00:21:13.309 --> 00:21:14.789
these aspects and they're all really cool and

00:21:14.789 --> 00:21:17.130
they're all really fascinating, but really one

00:21:17.130 --> 00:21:19.009
of the coolest things behind it is the mindset.

00:21:19.210 --> 00:21:21.750
Like if you listen to like Ferran talk or Albert,

00:21:21.930 --> 00:21:23.890
right? And they're talking about how they're

00:21:23.890 --> 00:21:26.009
conceptualizing stuff. And he's sort of like,

00:21:26.109 --> 00:21:27.869
yeah, and like the texture and this and that

00:21:27.869 --> 00:21:30.180
and blah, because. Ferdinand is a very good cook,

00:21:30.259 --> 00:21:32.119
you know, and they cooked traditional food for

00:21:32.119 --> 00:21:34.880
a really, really long time. And a lot of their

00:21:34.880 --> 00:21:38.359
food is based in tradition. And, you know, when

00:21:38.359 --> 00:21:40.500
you understand Spanish food as what it really

00:21:40.500 --> 00:21:43.059
is, you can see a lot of Spanish elements in,

00:21:43.160 --> 00:21:46.599
you know, even things that are not specifically

00:21:46.599 --> 00:21:49.440
Spanish with jamón ibérico and garlic and this

00:21:49.440 --> 00:21:51.579
and that and almonds and whatever, you know,

00:21:51.579 --> 00:21:54.380
the oiliness of things, you know, the like the

00:21:54.380 --> 00:22:00.259
drinks with the slick of oil. his mental approach

00:22:00.259 --> 00:22:04.759
to searching for a new texture changing the temperature

00:22:04.759 --> 00:22:08.539
of something how that like impacts you it's it's

00:22:08.539 --> 00:22:11.119
super free i mean the guy is a genius you there's

00:22:11.119 --> 00:22:13.160
no arguing about it he's a fucking genius you

00:22:13.160 --> 00:22:15.559
can like what he does or you can hate it you

00:22:15.559 --> 00:22:18.279
can say this not doesn't interest me at all that's

00:22:18.279 --> 00:22:20.119
fine like that's totally fair you don't have

00:22:20.119 --> 00:22:23.880
to like it he is a genius so like you just reminded

00:22:23.880 --> 00:22:27.440
me of the first book i had from piranha i downloaded

00:22:27.440 --> 00:22:32.900
it And it was like, I think the first, you know,

00:22:32.920 --> 00:22:39.259
the old ones that were black with some white

00:22:39.259 --> 00:22:42.440
lines, like a blackboard with some chalk drawings

00:22:42.440 --> 00:22:44.559
or something like this. And it was the first

00:22:44.559 --> 00:22:49.140
album that was 94 to 98. And this was around

00:22:49.140 --> 00:22:54.579
2003, 2004 when I got that. So you would buy

00:22:54.579 --> 00:22:56.539
the book and it would come with a CD and the

00:22:56.539 --> 00:22:58.900
CD would have... all the recipes, and that's

00:22:58.900 --> 00:23:02.059
what I downloaded, the CD, and I could have access

00:23:02.059 --> 00:23:05.420
to that. I remember you had to burn the CD to

00:23:05.420 --> 00:23:07.700
use it. You couldn't use it just like that because

00:23:07.700 --> 00:23:10.660
it was kind of like a software that ran on CD

00:23:10.660 --> 00:23:13.119
or something like that. There was a whole section

00:23:13.119 --> 00:23:16.940
of what they called beers. So they would do like

00:23:16.940 --> 00:23:19.720
a drink and a foam to have the effect that you

00:23:19.720 --> 00:23:21.380
have when you drink a beer, that you feel the

00:23:21.380 --> 00:23:24.099
foam, and then you have the... And they would

00:23:24.099 --> 00:23:26.480
play around with this complete, like, you know,

00:23:26.500 --> 00:23:30.740
it could be like a sweet pea beer with whatever,

00:23:31.079 --> 00:23:33.599
a prawn foam or stuff like that, like completely

00:23:33.599 --> 00:23:36.640
mixed up, like sweet and savory, hot and cold.

00:23:36.720 --> 00:23:39.200
And, you know, like this experience of, you know,

00:23:39.240 --> 00:23:42.599
putting a drink as a course, it's actually something

00:23:42.599 --> 00:23:45.680
very simple technically, but creatively it's

00:23:45.680 --> 00:23:47.599
something no one had ever done before. And I

00:23:47.599 --> 00:23:50.319
think that's also like a core idea in the mindset,

00:23:50.480 --> 00:23:55.140
like this motto they had. creativity is not copying,

00:23:55.359 --> 00:23:58.339
which is not a phrase from Ferran Adria, but

00:23:58.339 --> 00:24:00.880
it's a phrase he, it's almost his nowadays because

00:24:00.880 --> 00:24:04.119
he made it like this big thing about what creativity

00:24:04.119 --> 00:24:08.000
is. And it's, for me, it's an approach of creativity.

00:24:08.240 --> 00:24:10.900
It's not like an axiom, like it should be that.

00:24:11.099 --> 00:24:13.500
But yeah, it's a search that is very present

00:24:13.500 --> 00:24:17.400
and all of the things they did in that period.

00:24:18.279 --> 00:24:21.119
Crazy that, this is the curse also, right? Because

00:24:21.119 --> 00:24:24.299
El Puy, like I, I've never been to eat. It closed

00:24:24.299 --> 00:24:26.119
before I even started cooking, which is very

00:24:26.119 --> 00:24:33.180
sad. But like, I'm a big fan of their work. I

00:24:33.180 --> 00:24:36.059
really am. What I'm not a fan of is the wave

00:24:36.059 --> 00:24:38.359
of molecular restaurants that it launched, you

00:24:38.359 --> 00:24:40.819
know, that were sort of like copy pasting the

00:24:40.819 --> 00:24:43.460
techniques in the dishes, selling the sensation

00:24:43.460 --> 00:24:48.859
and the wow effect over what you were actually

00:24:48.859 --> 00:24:52.250
consuming. i we've talked about this so many

00:24:52.250 --> 00:24:56.569
times that it's you buy the spectacle not the

00:24:56.569 --> 00:24:59.990
substance and i fucking hate that and with el

00:24:59.990 --> 00:25:02.650
bui i do believe even though i will never find

00:25:02.650 --> 00:25:05.789
out i'll never be able to find out that there

00:25:05.789 --> 00:25:07.869
was spectacle but there was also substance behind

00:25:07.869 --> 00:25:10.589
it because this was such a such a novelty and

00:25:10.589 --> 00:25:12.390
it's what a lot of people talked about it was

00:25:12.390 --> 00:25:15.269
a cheap like gateway for people to be sort of

00:25:15.269 --> 00:25:18.779
like let me copy that And people will be sort

00:25:18.779 --> 00:25:21.539
of like, oh, wow. And maybe it'll overshadow

00:25:21.539 --> 00:25:24.460
the mediocrity of my actual work. There's a lot

00:25:24.460 --> 00:25:27.759
of that, like a lot of modern chefs that just

00:25:27.759 --> 00:25:30.339
take, you know, like this kind of box and they

00:25:30.339 --> 00:25:32.799
reproduce that in the restaurants. And they think

00:25:32.799 --> 00:25:35.380
that's something, you know, and I think that.

00:25:36.490 --> 00:25:39.029
people can smell that you know like if there

00:25:39.029 --> 00:25:41.450
is not authenticity that's something you say

00:25:41.450 --> 00:25:44.430
that you say that i mean there's gagan in in

00:25:44.430 --> 00:25:46.869
thailand you know this is like a mega celebrated

00:25:46.869 --> 00:25:49.250
restaurant and if you look at a lot of the dishes

00:25:49.250 --> 00:25:52.509
it's basically albui dishes but the flavors are

00:25:52.509 --> 00:25:56.779
changed for indian flavors And there's a lot

00:25:56.779 --> 00:26:00.400
of controversy about it because if like 70 %

00:26:00.400 --> 00:26:02.819
of the menu is albouy dishes just with the changed

00:26:02.819 --> 00:26:04.339
ingredients and you're sort of like, well, how

00:26:04.339 --> 00:26:06.680
authentic is it? Yeah, sure, you can make me

00:26:06.680 --> 00:26:08.660
a yogurt sphere with this and that and blah,

00:26:08.839 --> 00:26:11.480
and maybe it will be tasty, but it's kind of

00:26:11.480 --> 00:26:15.700
like, well, you know, creating is not copying,

00:26:15.819 --> 00:26:19.500
you know? Yeah, like I said, like I wouldn't

00:26:19.500 --> 00:26:23.180
say that's a rule that you should never break.

00:26:23.960 --> 00:26:26.460
But it's for sure an interesting approach. You

00:26:26.460 --> 00:26:29.619
said El Bulli closed before you even started

00:26:29.619 --> 00:26:31.700
recording. I think El Bulli closed when we were

00:26:31.700 --> 00:26:33.920
working together at Margol. Do you remember this

00:26:33.920 --> 00:26:37.519
picture? So is it the last? Yes, I can see it.

00:26:37.539 --> 00:26:42.920
By the way. So this is the last waltz of El Bulli,

00:26:43.019 --> 00:26:46.299
which was the closing event. And I think they

00:26:46.299 --> 00:26:50.599
really wanted to showcase how many chefs they're

00:26:50.599 --> 00:26:52.759
influenced. And this is just insane. By the way,

00:26:52.779 --> 00:26:55.319
this is... Xavier Sagristat, the guy that invented

00:26:55.319 --> 00:26:58.660
the foam tortilla. But we have here José Andrés,

00:26:58.859 --> 00:27:02.900
Joan Roca, Antonia Duris, Albert Adrià, René

00:27:02.900 --> 00:27:07.380
Redzepi, Graham Ackerts, Massimo Bottura, Albert

00:27:07.380 --> 00:27:12.420
Raurig, who is the guy from Disfrutar, you know,

00:27:12.539 --> 00:27:20.259
Oriol Mateu, and the other guy. It's just crazy,

00:27:20.400 --> 00:27:24.490
you know, like how... Well, this is a little

00:27:24.490 --> 00:27:28.390
bit the who's who. Maybe not today. Today's gastronomy,

00:27:28.470 --> 00:27:32.069
for sure, 10 days ago, this was the who's who

00:27:32.069 --> 00:27:35.170
in the world panorama. Yeah, absolutely. And

00:27:35.170 --> 00:27:38.549
there are a lot. How pissed would you be if you

00:27:38.549 --> 00:27:41.430
were in that picture and you were the guy behind

00:27:41.430 --> 00:27:45.710
the dog statue that you can't see? How fucking

00:27:45.710 --> 00:27:48.269
pissed off would you be? And we're like counting

00:27:48.269 --> 00:27:50.849
off people. We're sort of like, José Andrés.

00:27:52.490 --> 00:27:55.549
And the guy behind the dog statue that nobody

00:27:55.549 --> 00:27:58.710
will ever remember. And I mean, who would you

00:27:58.710 --> 00:28:04.109
say are the ones holding the torch of this, you

00:28:04.109 --> 00:28:06.630
know, the legacy of El Puyi today? Because, I

00:28:06.630 --> 00:28:08.490
mean, many of these guys, you could say that.

00:28:08.650 --> 00:28:11.250
I mean, I think any answer would be right if

00:28:11.250 --> 00:28:13.890
you choose any. Like, you know, it could be Oriol,

00:28:13.930 --> 00:28:16.880
it could be Albert, it could be René. or Andoni

00:28:16.880 --> 00:28:18.720
or John Roca or Jose Andres, you know, like,

00:28:18.740 --> 00:28:21.420
or even Massimo Bottura. Yeah, I mean, for me,

00:28:21.440 --> 00:28:24.700
obviously, Andoni and, like, the guys from Disfrutar,

00:28:24.759 --> 00:28:27.960
like, put aside because they are quintessentially

00:28:27.960 --> 00:28:32.720
El Bui for me. They are El Bui. You know, Andoni,

00:28:32.720 --> 00:28:34.980
he was there for some time, but, like, those

00:28:34.980 --> 00:28:36.799
guys, they were there beginning to end. They

00:28:36.799 --> 00:28:39.640
live and breathe El Bui. Same as Albert, you

00:28:39.640 --> 00:28:41.000
know? I don't remember the name of the other

00:28:41.000 --> 00:28:43.980
guy. But they say the other guy, that's the most

00:28:43.980 --> 00:28:49.140
bully. I have to check it now. He was the most

00:28:49.140 --> 00:28:52.319
bully of them all. Because he started in El Bulli

00:28:52.319 --> 00:28:57.420
when he was 17 years old. And he cooked there

00:28:57.420 --> 00:29:02.000
for 15 years only. And he became head chef very

00:29:02.000 --> 00:29:06.789
young. Killing machine, that's what I know from

00:29:06.789 --> 00:29:09.170
what I've heard. Yeah, probably. I mean, you

00:29:09.170 --> 00:29:11.430
can say Grant Ackert's very close to it, you

00:29:11.430 --> 00:29:14.910
know, with his own style. Andoni, obviously,

00:29:15.089 --> 00:29:17.430
you know, then ventured into very different things,

00:29:17.450 --> 00:29:20.369
but very close. And I mean, I think Rene also,

00:29:20.569 --> 00:29:22.130
you know, I mean, especially in the beginning,

00:29:22.230 --> 00:29:24.170
like the style was different, but the setup of

00:29:24.170 --> 00:29:26.210
the kitchen, like the whole thing was so close.

00:29:26.569 --> 00:29:30.079
It's very interesting how similar. el bouy and

00:29:30.079 --> 00:29:32.900
noma are in the effect that they've had not in

00:29:32.900 --> 00:29:34.859
the end like what you actually get on the plate

00:29:34.859 --> 00:29:37.940
but in the background things but also like i

00:29:37.940 --> 00:29:39.740
could say the same thing about noma that i said

00:29:39.740 --> 00:29:43.420
about el bouy i love the positive effects that

00:29:43.420 --> 00:29:46.700
noma has had on the culinary world internationally

00:29:46.700 --> 00:29:49.900
from high -end restaurants to low -end restaurants

00:29:49.900 --> 00:29:53.779
i really i love it Yet there is such a huge wave

00:29:53.779 --> 00:29:56.579
of copycat restaurants that make a cheap imitation

00:29:56.579 --> 00:30:00.559
that try to create a similar vibe. And they hide

00:30:00.559 --> 00:30:02.460
behind sort of like, oh, this is fermented, blah,

00:30:02.559 --> 00:30:04.240
blah, blah. And you eat it and you're like, ugh,

00:30:04.400 --> 00:30:08.339
right? One last thing I wanted to ask you. Like

00:30:08.339 --> 00:30:13.460
you said, we should organize a potluck food trip

00:30:13.460 --> 00:30:19.089
to Enigma. Why Enigma? What is it that makes

00:30:19.089 --> 00:30:22.049
you so fascinated about this restaurant? Anybody

00:30:22.049 --> 00:30:25.349
that knows me knows that I like a very different

00:30:25.349 --> 00:30:27.609
style of cooking than, you know, what they did

00:30:27.609 --> 00:30:29.250
at El Bui. That's kind of like what I'm into.

00:30:29.670 --> 00:30:32.809
But as I mentioned before, I'm a very big fan

00:30:32.809 --> 00:30:36.269
of El Bui, what it was. I think Enigma is run

00:30:36.269 --> 00:30:39.430
by Albert, right? I think. Albert Adria? Yeah,

00:30:39.650 --> 00:30:44.210
yeah, of course. It's Albert Adria. Today, 2025.

00:30:45.589 --> 00:30:47.869
Enigma is Alberto Adria. He used to have El Barri

00:30:47.869 --> 00:30:52.529
restaurant group, which for me, personally, tickets

00:30:52.529 --> 00:30:54.670
was part of El Barri. El Barri was the restaurant

00:30:54.670 --> 00:30:56.390
group. There were like six or seven restaurants.

00:30:56.609 --> 00:30:59.210
For me, it was the most exciting restaurant group

00:30:59.210 --> 00:31:02.250
there ever was. So there was tickets, Enigma,

00:31:02.509 --> 00:31:07.369
also like a Mexican one, like a cocktail place,

00:31:07.650 --> 00:31:11.869
like a vermouth place. And with COVID, everything

00:31:11.869 --> 00:31:15.960
closed. They kept only Enigma. So today that's

00:31:15.960 --> 00:31:19.420
what Albert D 'Aria is. Yeah. Well, I think Enigma

00:31:19.420 --> 00:31:22.700
is the closest thing, probably, I'm assuming,

00:31:22.720 --> 00:31:25.440
that you can get to experience what El Bulli

00:31:25.440 --> 00:31:28.119
was in a completely new form, obviously in a

00:31:28.119 --> 00:31:30.960
new shape. But I think it's the closest that

00:31:30.960 --> 00:31:33.000
you can get. And honestly, even though I'm not

00:31:33.000 --> 00:31:34.940
into that style of food that much, like I'm not

00:31:34.940 --> 00:31:37.000
into the whole sort of like alchemist kind of

00:31:37.000 --> 00:31:40.220
thing, but the stuff that I've seen at Enigma,

00:31:40.339 --> 00:31:43.519
it looks super interesting. Yeah, I would love

00:31:43.519 --> 00:31:45.200
to go. We have to go. next year
