WEBVTT

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You're listening to Heritage Radio Network. Hi,

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everyone. Welcome to Potluck Food Talks. My name

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is MC Foie Gras. We're recording live from Managua,

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and I'm here with my man, Lil Daikon, the wasabi

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wabi -sabi of the radishy lyrics. How are you

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doing? Goddamn, that was really good. I love

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that. By the way, Michelin, just last week, quietly

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started to back off with their Clovers and their

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Green Stars. Suddenly, they're not in their webpages

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anymore. But there is also not an announcement

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about it. It's just a trend change. Greenwashing

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is not the trend anymore. Bombing Gaza is the

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trend now, so let's go there. I don't know. Yeah,

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and it's like, I think that the way that they're

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removing it is so on par with how they were kind

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of like doing it. This is the thing with Michelin,

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right? I want to make a statement, right? I have

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very mixed feelings about Michelin. Do you have

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a Michelin puppet right next to you? I light

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a little bit of incense in the morning before

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it. I have a little altar and I sit in front

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of it and I stare at it. I whip myself. Please.

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That's actually a nice analogy. Okay, so I want

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to share with you a little bit my feelings about

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Michelin. They're very personal to me, right?

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So Michelin, on one hand, I disagree with almost

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everything that they do at the moment. They don't

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have a certain direction anymore. They hand out

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stars left and right, and they take them away

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left and right. And you don't really know why.

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There's no real reason for it. You know, they

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hand out a star, they take it away the next year.

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And people are sort of like, like people that

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go to the restaurant, they're sort of like, the

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food, if anything, if it's not gotten better,

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which we think it has, it stayed the same. So

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why are you taking the star away? It's a sort

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of sensationalism. It's very cheap. Like with

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this whole green star thing, it's so sporadic.

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It's like, hey, we make it a big deal. Here's

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your green star. Amazing, right? It fits into

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our narrative at the moment. People like green

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stuff, right? Yeah, nice. Like McDonald's with

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the green fucking M. Basically the same thing.

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Pathetic, right? And then the sort of like trend

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dies down and they're like, whoop, now you lost

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it. Sorry. Oh, you're doing everything the same

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that you did before? Maybe even better? Doesn't

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matter. We take it away from you. And it's like,

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no. But what I, you know, Michelin. There is

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an idea behind it of what it maybe used to be.

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Maybe not. Maybe it's just my own romantic perception.

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But of real intention in the pursuit of excellence.

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And that is why when I think of Michelin, I still

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have a sort of nostalgic feeling to it. Because

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Michelin for me, as I perceived it also as a

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young cook. was sort of like doesn't matter if

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you do little gel cubes doesn't matter if you

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do little agar dots somewhere you know or whether

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you're just cooking really like rustic but like

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elevated elegant food it's if you're pursuing

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excellence you know that is what they're all

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about the thing that's that is why i still have

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that's why i like looking at this little michelin

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man because that's what i think of when i look

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at it i'm like you know the the pursuit of excellence

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At the same time, I completely disagree with

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this compendium of, you know, mostly old white

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men in France and the UK who just are on a power

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trip and just like, you get a star and you get

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a star and you didn't come to my fucking supper

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club last weekend, so I'll take a star away from

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you. Like, it's bullshit. It's a big circle jerk.

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It's a big fucking, you know, boys club circle

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jerk. Where should I start? You know, like, what

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did you say? To me, it proves one thing that,

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you know, like I once, when I studied design,

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they explained us that the greatest brand ever

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built was Christianism. And they actually set

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the foundations of what later brands would become.

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Also because they, you know, they created a logo,

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which is just like a symbol of just two lines,

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which is a cross. And it's something that represents

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an idea larger than just like a little sign.

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It's something, it's an idea people embrace and

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there is a lot behind it, right? Like I think

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Michelin. achieved exactly the same because like

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many careers and I think both of ours included

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like when we began at least our ambitions was

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to to know this start chefs going there and this

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is a one star a two star a three star and knowing

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the differences and knowing and also dreaming

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about getting stars ourselves and understanding

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what are the steps to get there and this is the

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whole idea of Michelin which ironically It's

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a tire company, and ironically, that puppet you

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have there is a tire monster to sell tires. If

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you go back, if you decode the marketing strategy,

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which started 100 years ago, this was basically

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a highway guide. To drive more so you can sell

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more tires. That's the strategy, right? One second,

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let me go to Instagram. I wanted to react to

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that Puglisi reel. Then you call them up and

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you say, oh, are you guys sustainable? Yeah,

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we are. Oh, let me give you a clover. What the

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fuck is that? Michelin Guide has spent the last,

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what, six decades in pushing gastronomy towards

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square. cutting things in a certain way. Now

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it seems like it's punching out shit that makes

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you go somewhere. The core of the way that the

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Michelin guy wants people to cook is wasteful.

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It's about being all perfect and nitty gritty

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and putting stuff balancing another stuff that's

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supposed to look pretty. Every type of leaf that

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does not look like this or cut out every piece

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of fish that is not perfectly square. When has

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a fish ever been square? Fish is not supposed

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to be square. Square doesn't swim. It pisses

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me off. who has been defining astronomy for so

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many decades, now wants to talk about sustainability,

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but does not do it in a sensible way. Sustainability

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is asking questions, asking critical questions,

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and asking how can we do better? Because that's

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what we try to do, and I know that a lot of our

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colleagues are trying to do, but that's not what

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the Michelin Guide is asking for. This is called

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greenwashing. This is just putting something

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on top that makes it look greener, and that's

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not good enough. So I'm kind of pissed. I was

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back home Monday, and TV was getting in contact

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with me to talk about the Michelin Guide coming

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out, because I was probably the only one left

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in the city. And I was really surprised because

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they started to talk about this clover. You're

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going to get the clover. Are you excited about

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getting the clover? What will it mean for you

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if you get the clover? What the fuck is the clover?

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So this is this new sustainable certification.

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I look up on the homepage and I find Relay amongst

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the clovers. And I was like, wow, okay. And there's

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a little quote about farms for table and shit

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like this. It's what we do. And yeah, okay, that's

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good. I'm kind of happy about it. I tried to

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get in touch with John Tam and ask him, what

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did we do? Like fill out something I don't know

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about or what happened? Oh, no, no, no. It was

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just a phone call. What do you mean? It was just

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a phone call. They called up the restaurant and

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asked for John Tam, the head chef. John Tam picks

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up the phone and they say, so you guys are sustainable?

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Yeah, kind of. We do our best. We do this and

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this. Oh yeah, good, cool. Thank you very much.

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That was it. This industry is difficult. I think

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it's really difficult to get through all the

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storytelling and all the bullshit that's going

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on. I just know for a fact that the produce that

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we put on the plate is the one major consideration

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you need to have when you talk about sustainability.

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I know about solar panels and all that, but that's

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easy. The produce that you choose to put on the

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plate is what makes the difference because you

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need to make an effort to do that. You need to

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choose something that probably costs you more,

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and therefore you need to support some local

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people doing some local good stuff. You need

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to support people that want to make a change

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and actually sacrifice to make a change. Organic

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is the least you can do. Now, we have a few on

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that list that is certified organic, but a lot

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are not. And I think that that's fine. But then

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what is it? Like, does this organic certification

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even account for anything in this thing? Or does

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it just not matter at all? A phone conversation.

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And that is just bullshit. You call up a restaurant

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and ask, what do they do? Because I guess based

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on some quotes on their homepage or some shit

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that you heard around town, and then you call

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them up and you say, oh, you guys are standing

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with, yeah, we are. Oh, here, let me give you

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a clover. What the fuck is that? So that was

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it. Yeah. I've seen that reel when it came out

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originally. um which is quite a while ago it's

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quite a few years ago yeah you already mentioned

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it in the podcast like many episodes ago like

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at least 100 episodes ago because it's it's so

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on point honestly you know it is so spot on it's

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the phoniness it's the fakeness it's the sensational

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like chasing you know news but it's the lack

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of substance i i've talked about that a lot You

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know, this whole sort of like everything's on

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the surface, but nothing actually supports it.

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And it's exactly that. It's sort of like, oh,

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yeah, I can model a whole restaurant so easily

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after this idea, this trend, because we're talking

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about a trend in a certain way, this greenwashing,

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farm to table, blah, blah, blah. Absolutely.

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No, like I would say the trend is greenwashing,

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not sustainability. It's pretending to be sustainable.

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That's the trend. Because that's way easier.

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It's so easy, right? So you make it a little

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bit this and that and blah. You go a little bit

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noma. You make a little bit of wood, a little

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bit of plants. You post on Instagram pictures

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of farmers, whatever. You get some land somewhere

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outside. You start growing vegetables. You get

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a little piece of land or you get some fucking

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buckets. You make a rooftop garden. Good. Great

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on you. That's great, honestly. It by no means

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makes you sustainable. Not even a little bit.

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This is the thing that also pisses me off as

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somebody who has been very passionate about sustainable

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cooking and plant -orientated cooking. I mean,

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as you know, I used to run this entire fucking

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pop -up around that idea. And I actually did

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a horticulture certification at one point because

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I was so intrigued by the connection of growing

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produce and... The quality that then reflects

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in the restaurant. There's so much that goes

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into it. And this half -heartedness of sort of

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like, oh yeah, our menu is 80 % vegetable focused.

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Does that make you sustainable? Not at all. Not

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even a fucking little bit. Sustainability is

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so much. And the fact that a big entity like

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Michelin, who's one of the most powerful entities

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in the culinary world. is actively engaging in

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this greenwashing is really damaging for people

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who are trying to make an actual difference.

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Just to also add to that idea, what does a tire

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company talk about promoting sustainability?

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You know, like, you basically work on cars. You

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know? Also, like, I was... You know, like I once

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did a research on calculating CO2 emissions in

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a restaurant. And that like the operation of

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doing that mathematically is astronomical of

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calculating how much emissions. Imagine every

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supplier on the chain from the producer to the

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salad where you have like 12 different ingredients

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that come from. 12 different locations and they

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were transported in 12 different ways. So imagine

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if you put all that together plus workers and

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even clients and that whole ecosystem of activity,

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if you calculate that. As you say, there's no

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sustainability at all. I've heard even of restaurants

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that are very on top of sustainability that do

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things like they will grind bottles to do plates

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with that. I think Silo does that. As far as

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I understand, that's also not necessarily sustainable.

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By fortune or disgrace, there is something that

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is inherently attached to the gastronomical experience,

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which is storytelling. And any good restaurateur

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knows this. And for that reason, you will see

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places like, I don't know, like Azurmendi, where

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you walk in and they will tell you, oh, this

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is our garden. And here are our tomatoes, but

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they're not ready because they're not in season

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right now. And you sit down, first course, tomatoes.

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And it's like, but you just told me there were

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no tomatoes, you know, and now you're giving

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them to me. You see? I think that the main thing

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here is generating a narrative that attracts

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an audience. And that's the whole thing. That's

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what's going on here, not something else. They

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don't give a shit about saving the planet. Absolutely.

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And I think the storytelling point that you just

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mentioned is a really, really good aspect to

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look at it. Because there's two ways that you

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can go about it. There are a lot of things that

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are happening behind the scenes. If you come

00:13:36.860 --> 00:13:38.659
to a restaurant, you have a very narrow window

00:13:38.659 --> 00:13:40.990
that you see. Nowadays, we have social. media

00:13:40.990 --> 00:13:43.750
and that's a huge added sort of image that you

00:13:43.750 --> 00:13:46.470
perceive but normally you walk into a restaurant

00:13:46.470 --> 00:13:49.190
and you have the dining room you have the service

00:13:49.190 --> 00:13:51.090
and then you have the food that comes out and

00:13:51.090 --> 00:13:53.470
that is the image that you experience nowadays

00:13:53.470 --> 00:13:55.809
social media is a big big part of it one of the

00:13:55.809 --> 00:13:57.929
biggest parts of it no because you like look

00:13:57.929 --> 00:14:00.450
at the image of the restaurant before and you

00:14:00.450 --> 00:14:02.350
get a certain idea you get a certain feeling

00:14:02.350 --> 00:14:04.710
and then you go there with a certain already

00:14:04.710 --> 00:14:07.309
like idea in mind if you think about it you go

00:14:07.309 --> 00:14:09.419
to a restaurant And the storytelling thing is,

00:14:09.480 --> 00:14:11.559
you know, somebody is like, they have a farm,

00:14:11.700 --> 00:14:13.799
they do this, they do that. The storytelling

00:14:13.799 --> 00:14:16.299
comes in as they like, they tell you and it enriches

00:14:16.299 --> 00:14:18.600
your experience. It is a way to like communicate

00:14:18.600 --> 00:14:21.980
all the effort that is put in behind the scenes.

00:14:22.120 --> 00:14:24.259
That can be good. That can be a little bit tedious.

00:14:24.360 --> 00:14:26.100
It depends how it's done, but it can be very

00:14:26.100 --> 00:14:28.639
good. The other aspect which is happening a lot

00:14:28.639 --> 00:14:31.279
more these days, I think, is the bullshit storytelling.

00:14:31.940 --> 00:14:35.610
Let me tell you. blah blah blah blah blah blah

00:14:35.610 --> 00:14:38.330
blah and the storytelling is like its own thing

00:14:38.330 --> 00:14:40.730
it's not actually like hey let me communicate

00:14:40.730 --> 00:14:42.450
to you the things that we don't see it's like

00:14:42.450 --> 00:14:44.710
hey let me paint a picture in your mind whether

00:14:44.710 --> 00:14:46.960
that picture is actually happening Doesn't matter.

00:14:47.039 --> 00:14:50.360
Let me conjure up images of radishes being pulled

00:14:50.360 --> 00:14:52.399
from the ground by our head chef in the morning.

00:14:52.480 --> 00:14:56.360
Let me paint you a picture of how our stagiaires

00:14:56.360 --> 00:15:00.500
happily walk into the morning mist to pull a

00:15:00.500 --> 00:15:02.960
pumpkin from the field, you know. And you're

00:15:02.960 --> 00:15:05.360
like, oh, wow. Yeah, nice. Very romantic. But

00:15:05.360 --> 00:15:08.159
it's like, unfortunately, more times than not

00:15:08.159 --> 00:15:10.879
these days, it's all bullshit. It's all bullshit.

00:15:11.000 --> 00:15:13.440
And that's like that. That is the thing that

00:15:13.440 --> 00:15:16.110
a lot of these like very high end. I would almost

00:15:16.110 --> 00:15:20.450
say almost all of them, they live off that. It's

00:15:20.450 --> 00:15:22.889
an important part. That's why I say, and every

00:15:22.889 --> 00:15:25.230
restaurateur knows this, starting on a specific

00:15:25.230 --> 00:15:28.149
level, you can't put a dish and just say, just

00:15:28.149 --> 00:15:31.850
explain the technicalities. Well, you could,

00:15:32.029 --> 00:15:35.210
but you have to do at least that, at least explaining

00:15:35.210 --> 00:15:38.049
some technicalities like, well, the beetroots

00:15:38.049 --> 00:15:41.149
were juiced and then mixed with butter and blah,

00:15:41.210 --> 00:15:44.500
blah, blah, at least. At least that, or you can

00:15:44.500 --> 00:15:46.740
use it, for example, like when we were in Noma,

00:15:46.840 --> 00:15:49.840
they told us they wouldn't go into the technicalities

00:15:49.840 --> 00:15:54.120
because they would just say like... fermented

00:15:54.120 --> 00:15:58.340
whey condiment. That's it. There was probably

00:15:58.340 --> 00:16:01.659
a lot behind that that was just too complex to

00:16:01.659 --> 00:16:04.620
explain. But that works. You need at least that.

00:16:04.759 --> 00:16:06.879
And if you know how to play with that, there's

00:16:06.879 --> 00:16:10.659
people that build these fictions around food

00:16:10.659 --> 00:16:14.580
just to enhance the experience. And it does because

00:16:14.580 --> 00:16:18.080
people believe it. Even if it's a lie, it doesn't

00:16:18.080 --> 00:16:20.519
matter. You know, you were mind blown by this

00:16:20.519 --> 00:16:22.580
story someone told you. You know, and that's

00:16:22.580 --> 00:16:25.960
the way it works, unfortunately. I mean, that

00:16:25.960 --> 00:16:28.399
is what Mugares lives off and has always lived

00:16:28.399 --> 00:16:32.000
off. You know, I mean, for over a decade at least.

00:16:33.039 --> 00:16:35.740
You know, I mean, when I came to Mugares, you

00:16:35.740 --> 00:16:40.480
know, you were amazed by... these images of people

00:16:40.480 --> 00:16:43.080
in the garden like harvesting flowers with a

00:16:43.080 --> 00:16:45.320
tweezer and a little scissor and blah you know

00:16:45.320 --> 00:16:46.840
and you have all these like i mean they're very

00:16:46.840 --> 00:16:48.960
very good at image building and at storytelling

00:16:48.960 --> 00:16:52.860
very good if you cut all the bullshit at the

00:16:52.860 --> 00:16:55.519
end of the day and you ignore all of that the

00:16:55.519 --> 00:16:58.679
location the story behind it etc and you just

00:16:58.679 --> 00:17:01.659
have the plate of food what is that to say you

00:17:01.659 --> 00:17:04.259
know i think well but but like i said at the

00:17:04.259 --> 00:17:07.740
end of the day a gastronomic experience there

00:17:07.740 --> 00:17:10.779
are many forces in play and the location is one

00:17:10.779 --> 00:17:13.059
of them the stories is one of them actually their

00:17:13.059 --> 00:17:15.299
last book or one of their books is the flavor

00:17:15.299 --> 00:17:19.200
of stories you know the things are not they're

00:17:19.200 --> 00:17:21.940
actually not bullshit you know like a story can

00:17:21.940 --> 00:17:26.720
change the flavor you experience of a dish like

00:17:26.720 --> 00:17:29.769
your brain Process it differently once you have

00:17:29.769 --> 00:17:33.329
a story or an environment or a setting or a dishware

00:17:33.329 --> 00:17:37.349
or whatever. All these things enhance the experience.

00:17:37.670 --> 00:17:40.329
And like I said, any people in the industry,

00:17:40.589 --> 00:17:43.650
any proper professional knows this very well

00:17:43.650 --> 00:17:47.410
and knows how to master this and setting the

00:17:47.410 --> 00:17:52.940
right setting to do it. I really like what Christian

00:17:52.940 --> 00:17:56.420
Puglisi said on that video we just watched, where

00:17:56.420 --> 00:18:00.880
he said that Michelin cut things square and that

00:18:00.880 --> 00:18:03.839
they wanted to fit just in a certain way. Because

00:18:03.839 --> 00:18:06.480
really, if you think about the expectations,

00:18:06.819 --> 00:18:10.180
the point where they're aligned, not only...

00:18:10.539 --> 00:18:13.539
for the guests, but also for the workers. They're

00:18:13.539 --> 00:18:17.000
online on a place that for me, it's toxic. And

00:18:17.000 --> 00:18:19.940
that's where chefs go crazy, where they burn

00:18:19.940 --> 00:18:23.779
out, where they humiliate their workers and suppliers

00:18:23.779 --> 00:18:28.970
in order to get the right. to place a logo at

00:18:28.970 --> 00:18:30.849
the entrance of the restaurant, which is, for

00:18:30.849 --> 00:18:33.910
me, crazy. Like, you do all this crazy thing.

00:18:34.069 --> 00:18:36.069
I was thinking about this. It's so tasteless

00:18:36.069 --> 00:18:38.450
to put the logo of Atari Company in the front

00:18:38.450 --> 00:18:40.390
of your restaurant, but at the same time, it's

00:18:40.390 --> 00:18:44.089
perceived as classy and luxurious. And for me,

00:18:44.109 --> 00:18:47.630
like, we've been brainwashed into this marketing

00:18:47.630 --> 00:18:50.190
strategy so successfully that that's the point

00:18:50.190 --> 00:18:52.349
where we are right now. And I think it's crazy.

00:18:53.459 --> 00:18:55.380
Absolutely. I was thinking about, like, there

00:18:55.380 --> 00:18:59.039
was no logo of Michelin and Noma. You usually

00:18:59.039 --> 00:19:00.900
see it when you walk in. They don't have it.

00:19:00.900 --> 00:19:05.279
And I know they're very jealous on their branding

00:19:05.279 --> 00:19:08.140
and collaborations. You know, like I know whenever

00:19:08.140 --> 00:19:10.279
they wanted to collaborate with a brand, even

00:19:10.279 --> 00:19:12.180
the greatest brands you can imagine, they were

00:19:12.180 --> 00:19:14.960
like, we can only use the Noma logo. There won't

00:19:14.960 --> 00:19:19.309
be any other logo. And I think... Well, at the

00:19:19.309 --> 00:19:22.849
same time, they don't have to show off anything.

00:19:23.529 --> 00:19:26.450
I mean, but they've also, like, had a very long,

00:19:26.490 --> 00:19:29.750
like, trajectory, you know? I think I remember,

00:19:29.769 --> 00:19:33.579
like, an interview with Rene Rezepi. many many

00:19:33.579 --> 00:19:35.640
years ago in the original norma space where it

00:19:35.640 --> 00:19:38.099
was like this whole thing about them not getting

00:19:38.099 --> 00:19:40.039
a third star when they were like the best restaurant

00:19:40.039 --> 00:19:42.039
in the world for like a really long time right

00:19:42.039 --> 00:19:44.400
and he was like would i like to get a third star

00:19:44.400 --> 00:19:46.940
yeah absolutely you know i think i remember way

00:19:46.940 --> 00:19:49.940
they're way past that right yeah like they're

00:19:49.940 --> 00:19:52.900
what what was the name of the documentary chef

00:19:52.900 --> 00:19:56.059
and their stars a german documentary is where

00:19:56.059 --> 00:19:59.440
he said that yeah yeah maybe yeah you just said

00:19:59.440 --> 00:20:02.160
something that like like reminded me of a point

00:20:02.160 --> 00:20:04.539
that always comes up for me when people talk

00:20:04.539 --> 00:20:06.259
about sustainability in a restaurant you know

00:20:06.259 --> 00:20:09.240
i feel like i'm with this like trying to fit

00:20:09.240 --> 00:20:13.819
into a square mold it's it's very very fitting

00:20:13.819 --> 00:20:16.119
to michelin they can't really do that now anymore

00:20:16.119 --> 00:20:18.619
because like too many people have broken out

00:20:18.619 --> 00:20:21.000
of this mold like el bui broke out of it and

00:20:21.000 --> 00:20:22.980
you know noma broke out of it and many many other

00:20:22.980 --> 00:20:25.240
places that followed right because it used to

00:20:25.240 --> 00:20:27.599
be like you have to be like this for us to give

00:20:27.599 --> 00:20:32.130
you our award right They say, like, it's just

00:20:32.130 --> 00:20:34.869
about the food and they embrace creativity and

00:20:34.869 --> 00:20:38.170
this or that. But just recently I heard a story,

00:20:38.170 --> 00:20:41.230
like, from a very reliable source. There's this

00:20:41.230 --> 00:20:43.670
city where there's this two -star restaurant

00:20:43.670 --> 00:20:46.250
and they had a brother restaurant that wanted

00:20:46.250 --> 00:20:48.990
to game, like, also their star. Also, you know

00:20:48.990 --> 00:20:53.490
when the inspectors are undercover? But there

00:20:53.490 --> 00:20:57.930
are some hints that, you know, like they're usually

00:20:57.930 --> 00:21:00.910
on their own. Not always, but they're usually

00:21:00.910 --> 00:21:02.710
on their own. They always will have like the

00:21:02.710 --> 00:21:05.910
whole menu and coffee afterwards. And then after

00:21:05.910 --> 00:21:09.029
two or three inspectors visited you, usually

00:21:09.029 --> 00:21:11.490
there's a booking from a visible face of the

00:21:11.490 --> 00:21:15.000
guide. whatever, the director of Spain or of

00:21:15.000 --> 00:21:17.519
New York or Mexico or whatever, and you know

00:21:17.519 --> 00:21:19.740
the name, and so you see the booking and you

00:21:19.740 --> 00:21:22.660
know this person is coming, so you're warned

00:21:22.660 --> 00:21:25.869
that they're coming. And this gives you the opportunity

00:21:25.869 --> 00:21:29.529
to do whatever you want. So I heard a story of

00:21:29.529 --> 00:21:32.089
someone who, you know, canceled all the reservations

00:21:32.089 --> 00:21:35.309
and invited all the suppliers. So he made like

00:21:35.309 --> 00:21:38.690
a fake setting of super happy people going crazy

00:21:38.690 --> 00:21:40.769
all over the dishes and everything, and nobody

00:21:40.769 --> 00:21:42.549
complaining and everything, and nobody giving

00:21:42.549 --> 00:21:44.730
a problem or anything, and be like, oh, wow,

00:21:44.829 --> 00:21:47.750
this place is amazing, going to the guy and saying

00:21:47.750 --> 00:21:50.829
like that. Again, you know, like the whole setting

00:21:50.829 --> 00:21:53.470
and environment and storytelling around a thing.

00:21:53.579 --> 00:21:57.039
is what makes something magical, right? And the

00:21:57.039 --> 00:21:59.619
other one that I heard, they wanted to fit into

00:21:59.619 --> 00:22:02.259
this mold where, I think it's the one you were

00:22:02.259 --> 00:22:05.460
suggesting, where you need to have amish bush,

00:22:05.640 --> 00:22:07.559
and you need to have petit fous, and you need

00:22:07.559 --> 00:22:09.920
to have like a specific, and if you don't have

00:22:09.920 --> 00:22:12.339
a bread basket, bread should have an important

00:22:12.339 --> 00:22:15.440
place in the menu, at least if you're doing a

00:22:15.440 --> 00:22:18.920
Western proposal, right? Like a Western, classic

00:22:18.920 --> 00:22:22.049
academically kind of cooking. So what they did

00:22:22.049 --> 00:22:24.109
is basically they did all the prep in the two

00:22:24.109 --> 00:22:25.789
-star restaurant, like the Petit Four's and the

00:22:25.789 --> 00:22:28.750
Amish Bush and all those things. And with an

00:22:28.750 --> 00:22:31.910
infrastructure of 40 chefs, they sent all the

00:22:31.910 --> 00:22:33.950
prep to the little restaurant and they got a

00:22:33.950 --> 00:22:36.769
first star right away. And that's how they did

00:22:36.769 --> 00:22:39.609
it. There's also that, you know? And that's so

00:22:39.609 --> 00:22:41.529
ridiculous, you know? And that brings me back

00:22:41.529 --> 00:22:44.630
to the point that I wanted to make with the whole

00:22:44.630 --> 00:22:47.400
sustainability attached to Michelin. It's so

00:22:47.400 --> 00:22:49.880
extremely unsustainable and not just in a way

00:22:49.880 --> 00:22:54.200
of like the food. The people. Yeah. When I was

00:22:54.200 --> 00:22:58.220
studying horticulture, I was reading a lot about

00:22:58.220 --> 00:23:01.059
permaculture. One of the biggest concepts of

00:23:01.059 --> 00:23:04.039
permaculture that stayed with me, because I was,

00:23:04.039 --> 00:23:06.079
this is about like landscaping and stuff like

00:23:06.079 --> 00:23:09.000
that, you know, agriculture. But I, for me, I

00:23:09.000 --> 00:23:11.299
really made a connection with kitchens and workplace

00:23:11.299 --> 00:23:17.579
also is the, the human. interference needed so

00:23:17.579 --> 00:23:20.720
there was like there's this big bible sort of

00:23:20.720 --> 00:23:23.240
like the earth care manual i think it's called

00:23:23.240 --> 00:23:26.279
and it was showing you like this little diagram

00:23:26.279 --> 00:23:29.880
of like what a permacultural and sustainable

00:23:29.880 --> 00:23:32.779
plot of land could look like and it was talking

00:23:32.779 --> 00:23:37.140
about the least human interference that you need

00:23:37.140 --> 00:23:40.059
is the best Because that is the most sustainable.

00:23:40.480 --> 00:23:42.859
And what we're doing, I mean, what the trend

00:23:42.859 --> 00:23:44.900
was in Michelin star kitchens is the complete

00:23:44.900 --> 00:23:47.900
opposite. More and more and more and more and

00:23:47.900 --> 00:23:50.099
more people and more hours and more this and

00:23:50.099 --> 00:23:53.059
more that. And it's like, man, it's like trying

00:23:53.059 --> 00:23:55.980
to solve a situation by getting angrier and angrier

00:23:55.980 --> 00:23:58.180
and angrier and angrier and angrier. That's exactly

00:23:58.180 --> 00:24:00.630
what was happening in kitchens also, right? And

00:24:00.630 --> 00:24:03.009
like, so these days also when I hear people kind

00:24:03.009 --> 00:24:04.789
of talking about sort of like, oh yeah, we have

00:24:04.789 --> 00:24:06.470
so and so many chefs, like we work so and so

00:24:06.470 --> 00:24:08.849
many hours. I mean, how many fucking times have

00:24:08.849 --> 00:24:11.269
we had conversations like that with people from

00:24:11.269 --> 00:24:13.529
the industry? And I'm kind of like, you cannot

00:24:13.529 --> 00:24:16.349
talk about being sustainable in any fucking way.

00:24:16.430 --> 00:24:20.269
I don't give a shit. Like, you know, like how

00:24:20.269 --> 00:24:22.710
many farmers you have and like how much land

00:24:22.710 --> 00:24:25.190
you have and this and that and blah. If you have

00:24:25.190 --> 00:24:27.430
this and this many chefs and all of these chefs

00:24:27.430 --> 00:24:30.339
that work, I mean, come on. Over what, like 10

00:24:30.339 --> 00:24:32.440
hours? 10 hours for normal people is still a

00:24:32.440 --> 00:24:34.839
lot. That's more than a workday, right? For me,

00:24:34.859 --> 00:24:37.420
that's a half day. One thing is if you do 10

00:24:37.420 --> 00:24:40.160
hours and you achieved many things. The other

00:24:40.160 --> 00:24:43.259
thing is if you work 10 hours and you were trimming

00:24:43.259 --> 00:24:50.099
leaves to make them square. Yeah. And cutting

00:24:50.099 --> 00:24:54.250
them in a cookie mold. round herbs and throwing

00:24:54.250 --> 00:24:57.650
the frames away. There's also this concept of

00:24:57.650 --> 00:25:00.789
the curse of the Michelin. Very early, Alain

00:25:00.789 --> 00:25:02.849
Saint -Denis, I think he was one of the very

00:25:02.849 --> 00:25:05.230
first ones to give up his star and saying, I

00:25:05.230 --> 00:25:06.890
don't want this shit. I don't want this curse.

00:25:07.089 --> 00:25:12.529
It's like a gift, a poison gift. Also, Marco

00:25:12.529 --> 00:25:15.430
Pierre White, he also gave away his stars. Well,

00:25:15.549 --> 00:25:18.009
there is a saying that, theoretically, if you

00:25:18.009 --> 00:25:21.819
have one star, you will sell 30 % more. Two stars,

00:25:21.920 --> 00:25:26.420
60, and three stars, 100 % more sales, which

00:25:26.420 --> 00:25:29.059
I think it's believable. I think that's the whole

00:25:29.059 --> 00:25:34.059
thing around this because there is an intermediary

00:25:34.059 --> 00:25:38.359
needed between the consumer and the supplier,

00:25:38.579 --> 00:25:40.200
in this case, the restaurant and the producer,

00:25:40.299 --> 00:25:42.900
right? Like restaurants produce gastronomic experiences.

00:25:43.700 --> 00:25:45.480
But I don't think it's true anymore, though.

00:25:45.759 --> 00:25:48.000
No, no, no. I think this will be true always.

00:25:48.519 --> 00:25:52.039
And also in any industry. You know, like in order

00:25:52.039 --> 00:25:54.400
for a dentist to get clients, he needs to be

00:25:54.400 --> 00:25:56.940
on the internet, for example. He needs a website.

00:25:57.079 --> 00:26:00.019
But that Michelin is directly connected to that.

00:26:00.140 --> 00:26:01.640
I don't think that... No, no, no. I think...

00:26:01.640 --> 00:26:05.420
I lost my point, sorry. What I wanted to say,

00:26:05.480 --> 00:26:08.680
I think Michelin is directly connected to bad

00:26:08.680 --> 00:26:12.720
environments and kitchens. Interesting, yeah.

00:26:13.339 --> 00:26:17.440
You won't see people going overly crazy if they're

00:26:17.440 --> 00:26:22.079
not ambitioning for a start or trying to preserve

00:26:22.079 --> 00:26:26.069
a start. you know, or making extra hours. It's

00:26:26.069 --> 00:26:28.369
like we're doing this for this. Like the ambition

00:26:28.369 --> 00:26:31.809
is not let's make this and this profits at the

00:26:31.809 --> 00:26:35.589
end of the year. Or let's everybody become rich.

00:26:35.769 --> 00:26:39.089
Or let's everybody change history by creating

00:26:39.089 --> 00:26:41.549
this new technique no one has ever done before,

00:26:41.690 --> 00:26:43.710
which is something I would say El Bulli had that

00:26:43.710 --> 00:26:45.589
ambition, for example, and other restaurants

00:26:45.589 --> 00:26:48.190
as well, of course. But you could then El Bulli

00:26:48.190 --> 00:26:50.710
clearly see an ambition that they wanted to explore

00:26:50.710 --> 00:26:54.359
unexplored ground. in the culinary world, and

00:26:54.359 --> 00:26:56.779
that was their thing. But in many, many, many

00:26:56.779 --> 00:26:58.980
cases, and the restaurants we're talking about

00:26:58.980 --> 00:27:00.920
here are the restaurants that said, no, we're

00:27:00.920 --> 00:27:02.819
not doing this because we have a star and we

00:27:02.819 --> 00:27:04.799
want a second, and we have a second and we want

00:27:04.799 --> 00:27:06.779
a third, or we don't have a star but we want

00:27:06.779 --> 00:27:09.420
a star. For that reason, we're going to change

00:27:09.420 --> 00:27:13.180
the menu and do this and become better. I don't

00:27:13.180 --> 00:27:15.460
know. I think there is a correlation, and also

00:27:15.460 --> 00:27:18.759
not necessarily more sales because there's also

00:27:18.759 --> 00:27:21.880
a specific market for that, and this doesn't

00:27:21.880 --> 00:27:26.000
work. in every city or every client group, okay?

00:27:26.700 --> 00:27:30.059
I totally get your point. The other point I was

00:27:30.059 --> 00:27:32.740
saying is that Michelin and any guide responds

00:27:32.740 --> 00:27:36.279
to a need, and that's a need in the market. Like

00:27:36.279 --> 00:27:39.000
people need, you know, like you know about restaurants

00:27:39.000 --> 00:27:41.759
and I know about restaurants, but Mr. Smith.

00:27:42.279 --> 00:27:46.160
who doesn't have an idea and he goes to a specific

00:27:46.160 --> 00:27:50.279
city, he will go to Michelin or TripAdvisor or

00:27:50.279 --> 00:27:53.220
Google Business or the list of some influencer

00:27:53.220 --> 00:27:56.980
or some book or he will ask friends or he would

00:27:56.980 --> 00:28:00.339
go into whatever. But there is a need to build

00:28:00.339 --> 00:28:03.400
that bridge. And what Michelin has done is that

00:28:03.400 --> 00:28:06.119
the European standard, because that's also another

00:28:06.119 --> 00:28:10.920
thing, it's a Eurocentric. that whatever you

00:28:10.920 --> 00:28:14.319
see outside, it's still Eurocentric. It's, ah,

00:28:14.359 --> 00:28:17.480
let's give this Michelin star to this exotic

00:28:17.480 --> 00:28:21.660
taco place because it's ethnic, or to this hawker

00:28:21.660 --> 00:28:24.720
place in Singapore because it's so, wow, it's

00:28:24.720 --> 00:28:28.299
so exotic that we can have an experience here.

00:28:28.420 --> 00:28:32.609
And I'm like... You know, that's not a star standard.

00:28:32.829 --> 00:28:34.710
You know, like once you're in the business and

00:28:34.710 --> 00:28:36.450
you know these things, you know what's a star

00:28:36.450 --> 00:28:38.269
and a two star and a three star and you can tell.

00:28:38.569 --> 00:28:41.349
It's phony. Yeah, it's like, oh, look at us,

00:28:41.390 --> 00:28:44.170
you know. We're so inclusive. We're so sustainable.

00:28:45.039 --> 00:28:47.559
Yeah, I definitely see your point. I think what

00:28:47.559 --> 00:28:49.740
you're saying is like I would agree with it for

00:28:49.740 --> 00:28:52.339
like a big percentage of things. I think it's

00:28:52.339 --> 00:28:54.960
definitely possible to have a Michelin star restaurant

00:28:54.960 --> 00:28:58.519
and not be toxic. And I also I know of restaurants

00:28:58.519 --> 00:29:02.279
that don't care and don't like especially like

00:29:02.279 --> 00:29:04.160
here in Dubai, for example, you know, like Michelin

00:29:04.160 --> 00:29:05.819
is very new here. And before that, there were

00:29:05.819 --> 00:29:08.119
a lot of restaurants that were pushing a lot.

00:29:08.759 --> 00:29:12.180
Also, like in not the most healthy way without

00:29:12.180 --> 00:29:14.849
ever getting like a star, you know. I agree.

00:29:14.950 --> 00:29:17.390
I agree. I don't say it's all the cases, but

00:29:17.390 --> 00:29:21.690
I say there is a visible pattern of that. Yeah,

00:29:22.509 --> 00:29:24.869
absolutely. I think the thing is also with giving

00:29:24.869 --> 00:29:27.190
the stars away, and I think the important part

00:29:27.190 --> 00:29:30.470
is how free you are as a creative, as somebody

00:29:30.470 --> 00:29:32.839
who makes something, right? Are you going to

00:29:32.839 --> 00:29:35.960
enslave yourself to the idea of getting a star

00:29:35.960 --> 00:29:39.539
and being dependent on somebody giving you this

00:29:39.539 --> 00:29:41.619
out of the grace of their, you know, whatever?

00:29:41.839 --> 00:29:44.299
Is that going to change what you do? It's also

00:29:44.299 --> 00:29:46.160
the curse of social media, right? It's like,

00:29:46.240 --> 00:29:48.279
well, on one side, I get all this information

00:29:48.279 --> 00:29:50.660
and it's great. I get a lot of inspiration. But

00:29:50.660 --> 00:29:52.859
at the same time, how much of like authentic,

00:29:53.079 --> 00:29:55.960
unauthentic me am I bringing into the things

00:29:55.960 --> 00:29:59.039
that I'm creating and developing? So if I'm chasing

00:29:59.039 --> 00:30:03.049
a Michelin star, If I didn't have that, if I

00:30:03.049 --> 00:30:04.890
didn't have the social media, if I didn't have

00:30:04.890 --> 00:30:07.430
the trends that I'm getting fed, if I didn't

00:30:07.430 --> 00:30:09.230
have a tire company telling me, hey, this is

00:30:09.230 --> 00:30:11.829
cool right now, would I be doing the same thing

00:30:11.829 --> 00:30:13.529
that I'm doing right now? Or would I be creating

00:30:13.529 --> 00:30:16.390
something completely different out of my inner

00:30:16.390 --> 00:30:19.450
world, like what I find exciting, without caring

00:30:19.450 --> 00:30:21.730
about all of that shit? Would it be the same?

00:30:21.890 --> 00:30:23.349
And I think that's the question that we need

00:30:23.349 --> 00:30:26.269
to ask ourselves a lot. This guide started 100

00:30:26.269 --> 00:30:29.950
years ago, and it was like a guide. Now it has

00:30:29.950 --> 00:30:32.609
become this idea, and also it exists because

00:30:32.609 --> 00:30:35.769
they invest resources into it. You have to pay

00:30:35.769 --> 00:30:38.730
the inspectors. These are full -time jobs. You

00:30:38.730 --> 00:30:41.410
have to do all the fact -checking and everything,

00:30:41.509 --> 00:30:43.410
and that's an infrastructure. It's like a company.

00:30:43.769 --> 00:30:46.410
The whole marketing strategy is like a whole

00:30:46.410 --> 00:30:49.599
company, and that's the reason. No one has been

00:30:49.599 --> 00:30:51.980
able to push it back, you know, because you have,

00:30:52.059 --> 00:30:55.400
like I said, like 50 bests or 50 bests at the

00:30:55.400 --> 00:30:58.799
end of the day is 50 restaurants in the whole

00:30:58.799 --> 00:31:02.559
world or in the whole region, right? Like Michelin,

00:31:02.720 --> 00:31:06.119
if they go to a country, they will measure the

00:31:06.119 --> 00:31:09.099
whole country or the whole city, which also,

00:31:09.119 --> 00:31:11.240
this is important to say that there are cities

00:31:11.240 --> 00:31:14.710
that... For example, it was disclosed that Florida

00:31:14.710 --> 00:31:18.450
tourism boards paid $3 million just to be reviewed.

00:31:18.710 --> 00:31:20.990
It's not something that, oh, we discovered this

00:31:20.990 --> 00:31:24.049
undiscovered food scene in Florida and we went

00:31:24.049 --> 00:31:26.970
there to... No, no, no, that's not how it works.

00:31:27.150 --> 00:31:30.640
This is not... It's not the film academy that

00:31:30.640 --> 00:31:34.359
has a purpose of good cinema. At the end of the

00:31:34.359 --> 00:31:37.740
day, here, this is a PR company for themselves.

00:31:38.079 --> 00:31:44.579
Same as San Pellegrino. These are all PR companies.

00:31:44.839 --> 00:31:47.480
This is something that really pisses me off when

00:31:47.480 --> 00:31:50.980
I see these chefs that are... That they can't

00:31:50.980 --> 00:31:53.359
even hide it, that they're genuinely motivated

00:31:53.359 --> 00:31:56.859
by their egos, like a little children where you

00:31:56.859 --> 00:31:59.180
say, here, you have a star. And they go to the

00:31:59.180 --> 00:32:01.519
other children and say, look, I have a star.

00:32:01.700 --> 00:32:04.700
And then another one comes in, I have two. And

00:32:04.700 --> 00:32:08.180
that's the chef world that go around like that,

00:32:08.220 --> 00:32:12.200
just showing off their little prizes that they

00:32:12.200 --> 00:32:17.829
got. And I think this system should... turn obsolete

00:32:17.829 --> 00:32:21.609
at some point i think you know like today there

00:32:21.609 --> 00:32:25.259
are the tools when i was a kid Internet was not

00:32:25.259 --> 00:32:27.859
what it is today. And you could imagine this

00:32:27.859 --> 00:32:31.259
futuristic digital communities where things could

00:32:31.259 --> 00:32:35.440
be built and societies could be changed. And

00:32:35.440 --> 00:32:38.220
I think today there are all the resources to

00:32:38.220 --> 00:32:43.900
create a new way of measuring restaurants in

00:32:43.900 --> 00:32:47.099
transparent ways where you know what was being

00:32:47.099 --> 00:32:51.539
pointed, who pointed it, when. People working

00:32:51.539 --> 00:32:53.940
there being treated with dignity, like, just

00:32:53.940 --> 00:32:57.259
dignity, you know? Like, also the thing, you

00:32:57.259 --> 00:32:59.359
get a green star and then you're paying, like,

00:32:59.359 --> 00:33:02.779
your dishwasher three hours an hour, you know?

00:33:02.819 --> 00:33:07.200
Like, and you're not even in black, you know?

00:33:07.220 --> 00:33:09.259
Like, you're not even paying, like, with proper

00:33:09.259 --> 00:33:12.660
taxes. Those things are going on all over, you

00:33:12.660 --> 00:33:16.640
know? Like, the whole time, man. Yeah. I think

00:33:16.640 --> 00:33:23.140
those are my opinions about it. That's it for

00:33:23.140 --> 00:33:25.559
this week's episode of Putt Lock Food Talks.

00:33:25.559 --> 00:33:27.940
If you like what we're doing, make sure to subscribe

00:33:27.940 --> 00:33:30.200
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00:33:30.559 --> 00:33:32.640
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00:33:32.640 --> 00:33:35.859
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00:33:35.859 --> 00:33:36.140
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