WEBVTT

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You're listening to Heritage Radio Network. Hi,

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everyone. Welcome to Potluck Food Talks. I'm

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Eric. I'm here with Bahamut. And we're going

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to talk about... Just throw some random questions.

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Yeah, it's just a little general catch -up. I

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feel like we haven't recorded in a while. True.

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True, true, true, true. Anything new to share

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from your side? Nothing crazy, nothing crazy.

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Just the same old madness. What about you? Well,

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yesterday I had a tour guest that told me something

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that I said, I should bring this out on my podcast.

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Do you agree that if you see somebody eating

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a pie, you know, a slice, like a cake, let's

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say a cheesecake, for example, and if that person

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starts eating, not from the tip, but from the

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back, It's probably a psychopath. Do you agree

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with that? I 50 % agree with that because we

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can all agree that it's going to make all of

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us uncomfortable seeing that, right? Because,

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but why, you know? Because we have been, we're

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programmed in a certain way, right? So at the

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same time, you know, I can respect somebody just

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not giving a shit about the general opinion.

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and just saying like, hey, I am going to break

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free of my social chains. I'm going to break

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free of this fucking ant hive mind. I'm going

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to eat my slice of cake exactly how the fuck

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I want. And I can really respect that. And you

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know what? Maybe I'm just going to start doing

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it. I do think you need to be a psychopath, you

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know, especially in a cheesecake where you have

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like that runny middle thing out there asking

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you to please put your spoon in it. And you go

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to the back, you know, like to the backside.

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And it's, yeah, it's just counterintuitive. But,

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but isn't the tip, the like creamiest part, the

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like very best part of a cheesecake? So why wouldn't

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you start from the back? And, you know, because

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starting with the tip is kind of like premature

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ejaculation. You know, you're just kind of like

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you're starting with the best bit already. If

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you start from the back. which sometimes with

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premature ejaculation you also do. Let's now

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go further with those analogies. You're leaving

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the best part for the very last bit. It makes

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sense if you think about it. So you prepared

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some questions. Let me go through them. So we

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wanted to throw some random questions and discuss

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them. Who's been a major influence that caused

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a turning point in your career? Do you have anything

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in mind for that? That cast a turning point in

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my career? I mean, you wrote that question. I

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was expecting you to have like a super prepared

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answer. Like, of course, I know. I know exactly

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what you mean. Let me think. I can think of quite

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a few, you know, and probably Mugatti as a place.

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made like a major turning point, not only in

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my career, but I would say in my life. You know,

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like I remember Anthony Bourdain once wrote that

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going to Mugaritz is a life transforming experience.

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And I really felt that way. It really changed

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my way of understanding many things and work.

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I've heard a lot of people saying that they didn't

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learn how to cook there, but how to work and

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approach work. Yes. I really see that. That was

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one. Also, like, head chefs that I had, like,

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in different places where I worked, and especially,

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like, people that were really mentally quick,

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you know, that could solve problems quickly in

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situations where most people would panic. They

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would come out with a quick solution right away,

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like, ah, 2 plus 2 is 4. Like, it's very obvious.

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And everybody around is like, how the fuck did

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you do that? Or how the fuck did you came up

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with that? Probably my first sous chef in Caracas,

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a guy called Ruben Martinez. Yeah, because we

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work in a kitchen with very few resources and

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he would just cowboy everything, you know, like

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no strainer while taking a tray with holes and

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using it as a strainer. No coffee ice cream while

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taking a vanilla ice cream and throwing an espresso

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and mixing it a la minute. You know, like this

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kind of things, like just like that. Like he

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had done it a hundred times before, but of course

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he hadn't. He was just reacting and knowing that

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you just want to get out of this situation as

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fast as you can and see around the resources

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that you have available and use them. What do

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you have? What can you use? Okay, coffee, ice

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cream, punk. No strainer? Okay, a tray with holes?

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Strain, you know, like that. No oil? Just putting

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a fish inside a... a vegetable preserved with

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oil and throwing it to the pan. Because there

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was no oil a day in Caracas already 20 years

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ago. Suddenly, there was no oil in the whole

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city. You know, like, crazy stuff. At least in

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Latin America, man. Yeah, totally. That sort

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of skill set of, like, improvising off the cuff

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is really, really valuable. I mean, we've, like,

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we've, you and me, we've shared a couple of situations

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where we've done that. We've talked about this

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already also. But it's also something that I

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don't see in a lot of chefs anymore. Like you

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see it very, very rarely. This kind of like really

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adapts sort of like problem solving kind of thing.

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It's sort of like, oh, this is happening. I'm

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going to jump in. I'm going to do this. Like

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when I was in Mugares, for example, like it was

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the same thing. I had just come out of Margaux

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where we were working together. And there were

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also a couple of situations like that. And everybody

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would just kind of be sort of like, oh, this

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is happening. And, you know, you kind of sort

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of like, and it's just like. blah blah blah blah

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blah blah oh why didn't you do this why didn't

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you do that and you kind of just like shut the

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fuck up and just fucking like do you know and

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you just like stop crying you just stop talking

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you just jump into action you're like okay what

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can i do and often you find a solution i remember

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what well you're now working with michelle hopfield

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i would say that's also like a guy that that

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really well i would say i already saw like stuff

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he would do before But I would say he would do

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those kind of things, like problem solving a

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la minute, like in a very high -level way, you

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know? And I remember one of these situations,

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I don't remember, I think it was a machine that

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was not working, and that machine was key for

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whatever we were doing. I think it was like a

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little mixer, and it wouldn't turn on. I don't

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remember what machine it was, to be honest. But

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I remember I was trying things, like putting

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the bottom, and I would go to him, and I'm like,

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it's not working, what should I do? And he said

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like 10 times to me, one after the other, that

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I would say the same thing. He would say, continue

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trying. Try more. Just try more. And at the end,

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I did it. Yeah, Michael was also for sure one

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of, I didn't want to start with him, but for

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sure one of the big turning points in my career

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also. I mean, when we worked at Margot together,

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I have lots of very good memories of him. Like

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he was very, like very out there, you know, he

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was very full on, gave me a lot of shit. But

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especially like afterwards when I, when I worked

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with him here in Dubai. Yeah. I mean, just such

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a, like, not just from a cooking perspective,

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which is like really down my alley because it's

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all about flavor. It's all about flavor. Nothing

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else matters, you know, flavor, flavor, flavor,

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flavor. And also how things make you feel. Like,

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how do you feel after eating something? It's

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not just about like fucking butter and this and

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that and blah, but like, you feel good after

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eating something? Like, good. If you go for an

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omakase tasting menu, you eat 12 courses, you

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walk out and you feel like shit, you didn't do

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a good job. I think that's also something that

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not a lot of people think about. But that aside,

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the managing aspect and like, he's a businessman,

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you know? He's a full -on businessman. Like,

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I have not met a lot of chefs who have such a

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good understanding of business and of like managing

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people. And really kind of just like making it

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work. The jobs that I did afterwards, you know,

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like I had been a head chef before, but then

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when I was a head chef there. That's interesting

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because my impression I have about him is as

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a craftsman, not as a businessman, because probably

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he wasn't a businessman when we were working

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with him back then. And later he became one.

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But like, this is the thing, right? So like,

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he's a super, super good craftsman, amazing chef,

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right? One of the best chefs I've ever worked

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with. And then he had a Michelin star in Berlin.

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And then he made this career choice, right? After

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a couple of years of being in Berlin, having

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a Michelin star, he decided to make a complete

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direction change and go into the Zuma group and

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then worked many years in the Zuma group. And

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there, but he made this decision, right? He was

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sort of like, okay, I could continue being in

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Germany and in Berlin, but he knew that he could

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only go so and so far. Because he worked in some

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of the best restaurants in the world. I think

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he was in Can Roca, he was with Sergio Herrmann,

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he was in... What's the name of this place? Cristian

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Bauer. Cristian Bauer, and also a two -star place

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in Portugal. I don't remember the name. Yeah.

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Dimitri something, the chef? I'm not sure. maybe

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maybe yeah but like in amazing places like super

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the highest level of cooking for me that's crazy

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because when i asked him which was the best restaurant

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he ever worked with and he he was already in

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all of these places he said that place in portugal

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yeah yes yeah but it sounds if you hear stories

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from that place it sounds fucking nuts it sounds

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absolutely crazy why well like since you opened

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that door let it out I can't replicate all the

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stories. Like he's told me many of them, but

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like, it just sounds like also the head chef

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was just like absolutely nuts. I think they were

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working themselves to absolute bits. Just pretty

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crazy. Just working and partying and working

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and partying and working and partying. Okay.

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Okay. That kind of crazy stuff. Yeah. But also

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like the head chef just seems like absolutely

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nuts. Villa Gioia. That's what it's called. Villa

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Gioia. Okay. Yeah. But honestly, you know, working

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for Michael Hoffman at Margot. The big turning

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point, because you know why? Like the place that

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had its problems and stuff, you know, and looking

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back at the food, you know, you can think whatever.

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Dieter Goschina is a chef for people who are

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curious. Sorry, continue. You know, like afterwards,

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when you go out into the culinary world and you

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hear about people like Alain Passat or Michel

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Bras, having worked at Mago, you already had

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an understanding of what they were trying to

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do. I think if you were from a different restaurant.

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And you hear about this like herb approach and

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local like old vegetable varieties and this and

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that and blah. You're kind of sort of like, okay,

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yeah, that's cool. But like, whatever, you know,

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it's vegetables. And having worked at Margot,

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there were so many things at Margot that were

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really special. Really, really special. So many

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dishes that I still think about also. So many

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like combinations of flavors and like a certain

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sensibility. And at the end, a lot of things

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contributed to that getting kind of like distorted.

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I have my own opinion on this. I think he was

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just trying to be too Frenchy, allure du cas,

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fine dining -y. But the idea behind a lot of

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things was very, very good. Yeah, I agree. I

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agree. Yeah, but also obviously Mugaritz as a

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place. You were in Mugaritz during a time where

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I think the food was amazing. When I was there,

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some things were amazing, some things were not.

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But as a place, it completely changed my career.

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100%. It just opened everything. I was at a good

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starting point as a chef. I had good experience

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and stuff for my age. And then I went there and

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just through being there, just through having

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that connection, it just opened up everything.

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Okay, another question. Can you think of a time

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where you really, genuinely impressed someone

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with your food? Yeah, for sure, man. For sure.

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I mean... I see it all the time. Not to sound

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cocky, you know, but like, I mean, you get to

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a point where you can make things very, very

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tasty, right? But I think we're talking beyond

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tasty, no? I remember when I was, this is like

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two years ago when I was a head chef at Otto

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in Berlin. I made a hay ice cream, ice cream

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out of roasted hay. For people who don't know,

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if you get the right kind of hay and you roast

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it, which is right, and you infuse it in milk.

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It has a flavor of almost like speculoos spices.

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It's kind of like grassy, but nutty, like a little

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bit like cinnamon sort of like flavor. It's really,

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really delicious. You roast it, you infuse it

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in milk, you use the milk to make an ice cream.

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I don't even remember what I served with it.

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I think it was like a take on like a carrot cake

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with like German root vegetables, like a very

00:13:28.720 --> 00:13:31.690
juicy kind of like cake. served it to somebody

00:13:31.690 --> 00:13:35.929
and they started to cry because this flavor of

00:13:35.929 --> 00:13:37.909
the hay reminded them of their childhood when

00:13:37.909 --> 00:13:42.870
they grew up on a farm. And yeah, that was really

00:13:42.870 --> 00:13:48.909
crazy. I also made someone cry on a good way

00:13:48.909 --> 00:13:51.710
with my food. Never on a bad way, fortunately.

00:13:54.669 --> 00:13:57.129
But yeah, I was thinking about the same way when

00:13:57.129 --> 00:14:00.409
I read this question and it was... So I had the,

00:14:00.450 --> 00:14:04.049
you know, when I cook at home or, like, for a

00:14:04.049 --> 00:14:06.409
dinner party or whatever, probably you do the

00:14:06.409 --> 00:14:11.830
same. Like, I have just, like, a 30 % is a plan,

00:14:12.049 --> 00:14:14.409
and the rest I'm just flowing, you know? I'm

00:14:14.409 --> 00:14:17.370
just... if I go to the market, I will grab stuff

00:14:17.370 --> 00:14:19.750
that was not in my plan at the beginning. And

00:14:19.750 --> 00:14:23.049
while I'm cooking, I will add stuff like process

00:14:23.049 --> 00:14:26.210
wise that I wasn't thinking about doing earlier.

00:14:26.529 --> 00:14:29.049
So, and I started like, you know, like improvising

00:14:29.049 --> 00:14:31.350
and building, and then it comes out something

00:14:31.350 --> 00:14:35.340
that, you know, was built on the go. Yeah. So

00:14:35.340 --> 00:14:37.399
this was a dinner party. Usually when there is

00:14:37.399 --> 00:14:39.580
a dinner party where a lot of people are cooking,

00:14:39.740 --> 00:14:42.580
I always take the sweets, the desserts, or the

00:14:42.580 --> 00:14:44.399
salads because I think those are the things nobody

00:14:44.399 --> 00:14:46.720
wants to take effort in doing something special,

00:14:46.940 --> 00:14:49.580
right? Like everybody wants to do the meat or

00:14:49.580 --> 00:14:52.279
the whatever, you know? So it was this dinner

00:14:52.279 --> 00:14:55.779
party. I had some very good vanilla banana ice

00:14:55.779 --> 00:14:59.320
cream that I got from a restaurant. And it was

00:14:59.320 --> 00:15:01.440
like a very simple dessert. So I just did like

00:15:01.440 --> 00:15:04.360
a simple chocolate cake with that ice cream.

00:15:05.070 --> 00:15:07.610
But then at that house, we had, like, a super

00:15:07.610 --> 00:15:12.429
good, like, aged balsamic vinegar. And I remember,

00:15:12.509 --> 00:15:15.870
like, this idea of doing strawberries with balsamic.

00:15:16.090 --> 00:15:18.269
So it's kind of like a traditional thing in Italy.

00:15:18.549 --> 00:15:24.710
So I did, like, this strawberry salad to go with

00:15:24.710 --> 00:15:26.629
that, with the ice cream and the chocolate cake.

00:15:26.929 --> 00:15:30.009
And it had session pepper. It had this balsamic

00:15:30.009 --> 00:15:32.789
vinegar. It had the strawberries and the whole

00:15:32.789 --> 00:15:35.779
thing. And, yeah. There were some friends and

00:15:35.779 --> 00:15:39.500
there was a couple and she, as soon as she tried,

00:15:39.600 --> 00:15:42.539
she started like crying. And I never had that

00:15:42.539 --> 00:15:45.519
before. And it was like really, really something

00:15:45.519 --> 00:15:49.720
special. Yeah, it's really cool. It's crazy how

00:15:49.720 --> 00:15:52.899
food can like have these reactions on you. There's

00:15:52.899 --> 00:15:56.000
this movie, like some people like it, some people

00:15:56.000 --> 00:15:59.639
hate it. It's the movie with Bradley Cooper where

00:15:59.639 --> 00:16:01.720
he's a chef in London. I think it's called Burnt.

00:16:02.440 --> 00:16:04.580
and it's like it's very over the top you know

00:16:04.580 --> 00:16:07.620
it's like about you know he's very angry he's

00:16:07.620 --> 00:16:09.379
trying to get like michelle stars it's like you

00:16:09.379 --> 00:16:11.679
know it's it's a little bit silly but there's

00:16:11.679 --> 00:16:13.759
um there's a couple of scenes that are nice in

00:16:13.759 --> 00:16:15.720
there and he's talking about how he wants people

00:16:15.720 --> 00:16:18.980
to feel when they eat his food and he says that

00:16:18.980 --> 00:16:22.600
oh when i when i when people like an article

00:16:22.600 --> 00:16:24.120
comes out and they're sort of like oh it's like

00:16:24.120 --> 00:16:25.740
really excellent and he's like it's not enough

00:16:25.740 --> 00:16:28.580
i want people to be sick with longing you know

00:16:28.580 --> 00:16:32.330
this like When we talk about like old school,

00:16:32.409 --> 00:16:35.690
like gourmet food, you know, where flavor is

00:16:35.690 --> 00:16:39.750
key. You know, this like moment where, because

00:16:39.750 --> 00:16:42.509
things can be delicious. But have you ever had

00:16:42.509 --> 00:16:44.309
this experience where you have something in front

00:16:44.309 --> 00:16:47.429
of you and you look at it and then you take the

00:16:47.429 --> 00:16:50.549
first mouthful and you just stop for a second

00:16:50.549 --> 00:16:53.509
because it's so good? Absolutely, all the time.

00:16:53.870 --> 00:16:59.019
And you're like, and I feel like you. don't get

00:16:59.019 --> 00:17:01.639
that very often anymore especially in restaurants

00:17:01.639 --> 00:17:03.100
especially in high -end restaurants it's all

00:17:03.100 --> 00:17:05.259
like the idea is cool and it looks good and blah

00:17:05.259 --> 00:17:07.740
but this and it can be delicious don't get me

00:17:07.740 --> 00:17:10.079
wrong it can be good but we're not talking like

00:17:10.079 --> 00:17:12.180
we're talking about this level of cooking we're

00:17:12.180 --> 00:17:15.200
not talking about good and like very good we're

00:17:15.200 --> 00:17:17.619
talking about good and like infinitely above

00:17:17.619 --> 00:17:19.859
that this moment of sort of like you take it

00:17:19.859 --> 00:17:21.640
in your mouth and you're like oh my god you melt

00:17:21.640 --> 00:17:25.140
away and i feel like not a lot of people are

00:17:25.140 --> 00:17:27.690
really striving for that anymore Quite a lot

00:17:27.690 --> 00:17:29.930
in my tours, you know, because the thing about

00:17:29.930 --> 00:17:33.529
my tours is that I, the curation, I want to select

00:17:33.529 --> 00:17:36.269
stuff that I think it's outstanding, right? Like

00:17:36.269 --> 00:17:39.809
a lot of people, you know, come from, I don't

00:17:39.809 --> 00:17:41.890
know, cities where the food is not so good. And

00:17:41.890 --> 00:17:44.309
so they can really be impressed. And I've learned

00:17:44.309 --> 00:17:47.529
like to leave them because I'm talking a lot

00:17:47.529 --> 00:17:51.549
during my tours. I'm dropping info and info and

00:17:51.549 --> 00:17:53.849
telling them stuff all the time. But at the moment

00:17:53.849 --> 00:17:56.170
when they're eating specific dishes that I know,

00:17:56.829 --> 00:18:00.210
I shut the fuck up and I just leave them. And

00:18:00.210 --> 00:18:03.269
I see them, that they're really tripping on a

00:18:03.269 --> 00:18:05.869
specific bite, you know, and I leave them and

00:18:05.869 --> 00:18:07.769
I go away, you know, whatever, to pay the bill

00:18:07.769 --> 00:18:12.210
or whatever. Yeah. Talking about that, what's

00:18:12.210 --> 00:18:18.750
your take on music or silence, both in cooking

00:18:18.750 --> 00:18:25.630
and dining? Ah, look, I made a rhyme. Such a

00:18:25.630 --> 00:18:28.349
poet. I don't have a particularly strong opinion

00:18:28.349 --> 00:18:30.750
about it, honestly. I like listening to music

00:18:30.750 --> 00:18:32.710
while I'm cooking, just because I like to listen

00:18:32.710 --> 00:18:37.609
to music. I also like having music on in service.

00:18:37.990 --> 00:18:42.289
I don't mind there being music. It depends on

00:18:42.289 --> 00:18:44.269
what kind of music I wouldn't want. It really

00:18:44.269 --> 00:18:47.150
depends what mood I'm in, right? Just as I was

00:18:47.150 --> 00:18:49.349
listening normally to music. I know a fair few

00:18:49.349 --> 00:18:52.970
people who would never have that. Or I've also

00:18:52.970 --> 00:18:56.450
seen, like during prep, There's music, but as

00:18:56.450 --> 00:18:59.329
soon as the service starts, music goes off. I've

00:18:59.329 --> 00:19:03.319
also seen that. I can get behind it. It's also

00:19:03.319 --> 00:19:06.599
common to see that there is music on until something

00:19:06.599 --> 00:19:09.039
goes really wrong and the service gets really

00:19:09.039 --> 00:19:11.960
tense. And then the music just becomes like an

00:19:11.960 --> 00:19:15.539
element of annoyance that needs to be turned

00:19:15.539 --> 00:19:18.700
off. I can understand that. I can definitely

00:19:18.700 --> 00:19:20.839
understand that. I've never really felt that.

00:19:20.960 --> 00:19:23.740
I was kind of like, nah. If you get thrown off

00:19:23.740 --> 00:19:25.440
by a little bit of background music, then what

00:19:25.440 --> 00:19:28.420
are you even doing? It's my opinion, right? It

00:19:28.420 --> 00:19:30.720
doesn't do any effect on me. I like listening

00:19:30.720 --> 00:19:34.400
to music. It kind of keeps me in a flow and stuff

00:19:34.400 --> 00:19:36.220
like that. But I can also work in silence. Totally

00:19:36.220 --> 00:19:39.559
fine. In the dining room, I also don't think

00:19:39.559 --> 00:19:43.740
like... Like music can be nice. It can be a little

00:19:43.740 --> 00:19:46.279
bit annoying. Silence can be nice. It can be...

00:19:46.279 --> 00:19:48.440
Like it just depends on the context. But I don't

00:19:48.440 --> 00:19:50.579
necessarily think that it's crucial for the experience.

00:19:51.599 --> 00:19:54.839
Okay. I do have some thoughts on that. Like I

00:19:54.839 --> 00:19:59.240
think it needs to be cohesive. cohesive conceptually

00:19:59.240 --> 00:20:03.259
you know like it has to go hand in hand you know

00:20:03.259 --> 00:20:06.259
like you can't be like i don't know like in a

00:20:06.259 --> 00:20:09.980
omakasa and having a full volume reggaeton you

00:20:09.980 --> 00:20:13.980
know but you can be like but you can be in a

00:20:13.980 --> 00:20:16.000
latin restaurant and have a full volume reggaeton

00:20:16.000 --> 00:20:18.940
and it would work you know like i think that

00:20:18.940 --> 00:20:22.279
those things have to You know, like the rest

00:20:22.279 --> 00:20:26.220
of the restaurant experience where the paintings

00:20:26.220 --> 00:20:30.579
or the dishware have to be conceptually cohesive.

00:20:30.900 --> 00:20:33.200
You know, like it can be like completely divorced

00:20:33.200 --> 00:20:36.359
conceptually. I can think of experiences where

00:20:36.359 --> 00:20:38.680
the music really played a role in the experience.

00:20:38.880 --> 00:20:42.240
And it comes to my mind when I was in Mass in

00:20:42.240 --> 00:20:44.599
Tokyo, this Peruvian restaurant. I've talked

00:20:44.599 --> 00:20:47.640
a lot of it a few times. And I remember, so the

00:20:47.640 --> 00:20:52.740
music, I would describe it as kind of like psychedelic.

00:20:52.740 --> 00:20:54.960
You know, it was kind of like trippy that you

00:20:54.960 --> 00:20:57.160
felt you were getting into, I don't know, some

00:20:57.160 --> 00:21:01.500
kind of Amazonian vibe kind of thing, like some

00:21:01.500 --> 00:21:05.099
kind of ayahuasca trip kind of vibes. Yeah. And

00:21:05.099 --> 00:21:08.359
yet at the same time, this played like a direct,

00:21:08.500 --> 00:21:11.920
I think that the food that he does has also this

00:21:11.920 --> 00:21:15.380
kind of like psychedelic. kind of thing, lots

00:21:15.380 --> 00:21:19.619
of colors, lots of textures, a lot of suggestions

00:21:19.619 --> 00:21:24.859
to jungles or ecosystems and this kind of stuff.

00:21:25.299 --> 00:21:28.940
And I think that made completely sense to me,

00:21:29.039 --> 00:21:31.920
you know? Yeah, like I said, or I remember in

00:21:31.920 --> 00:21:34.700
places where they would play that, like, very

00:21:34.700 --> 00:21:38.299
fast -paced music, and it was all like, dude,

00:21:38.380 --> 00:21:40.200
you're eating, and suddenly you start, like,

00:21:40.240 --> 00:21:44.079
you know, like... Like getting an epileptic attack

00:21:44.079 --> 00:21:49.640
suddenly. And I think this bossa nova vibe kind

00:21:49.640 --> 00:21:51.900
of thing, for a reason, should be banned. It

00:21:51.900 --> 00:21:55.339
should be illegal. That's my opinion on those

00:21:55.339 --> 00:21:58.019
ones, on those bossa nova playlists, chill out

00:21:58.019 --> 00:22:01.940
study. Like that elevator kind of music. Exactly

00:22:01.940 --> 00:22:09.819
that. I hate that shit. I really hate it. yeah

00:22:09.819 --> 00:22:12.119
see i don't mind i don't mind like it's for me

00:22:12.119 --> 00:22:14.960
it's kind of like whatever you know i i i often

00:22:14.960 --> 00:22:17.539
i feel like it can play into it a lot like you

00:22:17.539 --> 00:22:20.000
say like with the the thing at mass i totally

00:22:20.000 --> 00:22:24.700
get that but i'm never really like unless it's

00:22:24.700 --> 00:22:26.720
like really bad the other day i was in here our

00:22:26.720 --> 00:22:30.160
restaurant in in here in dubai and i was standing

00:22:30.160 --> 00:22:31.920
at the pass and i was like looking up i was like

00:22:31.920 --> 00:22:33.960
what kind of fucking music are we playing right

00:22:33.960 --> 00:22:36.700
now it was such a bizarre weird sort of like

00:22:36.700 --> 00:22:38.900
house techno thing but like really kind of like

00:22:39.240 --> 00:22:42.180
Like creepy circus music. And I was like, is

00:22:42.180 --> 00:22:44.619
this the vibe that we want to give people? I'd

00:22:44.619 --> 00:22:46.099
walk into a restaurant and I'd hear that full

00:22:46.099 --> 00:22:47.920
set of music. I'd turn around and walk the fuck

00:22:47.920 --> 00:22:51.640
out. This is something I've heard you... What

00:22:51.640 --> 00:22:54.400
was I going to ask? Yeah, yeah, yeah. Okay, I

00:22:54.400 --> 00:22:57.240
have it. This is something I've heard opinions

00:22:57.240 --> 00:23:00.940
of you on this topic and maybe you could elaborate

00:23:00.940 --> 00:23:05.240
on that. How has your perception on the concept

00:23:05.240 --> 00:23:09.279
of fine dining changed along the years? Since

00:23:09.279 --> 00:23:13.279
you began cooking and today, what was it then?

00:23:13.440 --> 00:23:17.220
What is it now? And what happened on the way?

00:23:17.400 --> 00:23:21.240
When I started cooking, I knew I wanted to be

00:23:21.240 --> 00:23:26.039
in fine dining because I wanted to cook at the

00:23:26.039 --> 00:23:28.920
highest level with a lot of expression. That's

00:23:28.920 --> 00:23:31.740
what I wanted. And it seemed like the most free

00:23:31.740 --> 00:23:34.740
form and the highest level of things. And in

00:23:34.740 --> 00:23:36.359
the beginning, you don't really know what anything

00:23:36.359 --> 00:23:39.700
fucking means, right? Like you look at a restaurant

00:23:39.700 --> 00:23:42.740
and you look at food and it's just like one thing.

00:23:42.980 --> 00:23:45.940
You can't look behind the curtain, right? And

00:23:45.940 --> 00:23:47.819
then you start cooking, you realize that there's

00:23:47.819 --> 00:23:50.039
lots of things that play a role into it. And

00:23:50.039 --> 00:23:51.599
then you go into different restaurants and you

00:23:51.599 --> 00:23:54.400
see that the differences between like different

00:23:54.400 --> 00:23:57.099
cooking styles. And I had a big turning point

00:23:57.099 --> 00:23:59.339
when, I don't want to throw shade on Mugaritz

00:23:59.339 --> 00:24:02.619
endlessly, you know, but I had a big turning

00:24:02.619 --> 00:24:06.220
point when I was at Mugaritz because Basque cooking

00:24:06.220 --> 00:24:09.180
is amazing, right? Like the food that you find

00:24:09.180 --> 00:24:12.079
in the Basque country is some of the most impactful

00:24:12.079 --> 00:24:14.700
that I've ever encountered. Just like in Japan,

00:24:14.880 --> 00:24:17.440
right? Where you find places that do certain

00:24:17.440 --> 00:24:19.440
things that you eat and they really make you

00:24:19.440 --> 00:24:22.460
stop. And so I was doing all this like super

00:24:22.460 --> 00:24:28.569
very... um brainy theoretical food but even as

00:24:28.569 --> 00:24:30.730
a young chef i was kind of like certain dishes

00:24:30.730 --> 00:24:32.109
there were a couple of dishes where i was like

00:24:32.109 --> 00:24:34.369
what the fuck are we doing here you ask yourself

00:24:34.369 --> 00:24:36.930
that and then you and you work like a fucking

00:24:36.930 --> 00:24:40.109
animal right you work five and a half days a

00:24:40.109 --> 00:24:43.490
week all day long you're just running like an

00:24:43.490 --> 00:24:46.569
idiot and then you go out on your day off And

00:24:46.569 --> 00:24:49.930
you go to like some small grill house, right?

00:24:50.049 --> 00:24:52.289
Where there's like, there was a sidreria really

00:24:52.289 --> 00:24:56.950
near to the stagia house between Urnieta and

00:24:56.950 --> 00:25:03.009
Lazarte. And the guy behind the grill that owned

00:25:03.009 --> 00:25:07.450
it is called, you can guess it, Jose Mari. Ah,

00:25:07.450 --> 00:25:11.549
okay. I was expecting Mikkel. No, Jose Mari.

00:25:12.130 --> 00:25:14.430
And just like, he was just like grilling there.

00:25:14.490 --> 00:25:17.759
It was so like, it was so... Low key, like his

00:25:17.759 --> 00:25:19.380
family, there was like a big kitchen with the

00:25:19.380 --> 00:25:22.839
grills, you know, the like saw to saw the chuletas

00:25:22.839 --> 00:25:26.519
from the half cow, a big wooden table. His family

00:25:26.519 --> 00:25:28.200
would often sit there, peel potatoes, cutting

00:25:28.200 --> 00:25:33.180
like patatas fritas. And the food was amazing.

00:25:33.240 --> 00:25:37.559
You know, revuelto de bacalao, cocochas, the

00:25:37.559 --> 00:25:39.380
chuleta, one of the best chuletas I've ever had.

00:25:39.460 --> 00:25:42.539
It was so good. I used to go there with Kevin

00:25:42.539 --> 00:25:45.299
a lot. We had a Chuleta eating competition at

00:25:45.299 --> 00:25:50.160
one point, which I very, very crushingly lost.

00:25:52.519 --> 00:26:00.839
I wouldn't mess with a Chuleta competition with

00:26:00.839 --> 00:26:05.240
Kevin ever. I mean, he's way bigger than you,

00:26:05.299 --> 00:26:08.900
man. What were you thinking? No, and I think

00:26:08.900 --> 00:26:10.980
his determination is just of a different caliber

00:26:10.980 --> 00:26:14.059
also. It's a mental game. Chuleta eating is a

00:26:14.059 --> 00:26:16.240
mental game. At a certain point, it's a mental

00:26:16.240 --> 00:26:21.059
game. Anyway. And like the food was fucking amazing,

00:26:21.140 --> 00:26:23.140
you know, and it's this guy in his shirt, he's

00:26:23.140 --> 00:26:25.319
drinking cider, he's grilling, he's like coming

00:26:25.319 --> 00:26:27.720
out laughing, talking to people. And you're like,

00:26:27.799 --> 00:26:30.599
I've just spent like 70 hours working in a kitchen

00:26:30.599 --> 00:26:33.920
with 14 other chefs, you know. And like, I look

00:26:33.920 --> 00:26:35.619
at the food that we do and like, of course, it's

00:26:35.619 --> 00:26:37.279
interesting. Of course, it's beautiful, but does

00:26:37.279 --> 00:26:41.680
it have the same impact? And I had that experience

00:26:41.680 --> 00:26:46.650
repeatedly of just. The sensation of when you

00:26:46.650 --> 00:26:49.049
sit down, you eat the food and the deliciousness

00:26:49.049 --> 00:26:51.369
of it. Because I am a chef, I like deliciousness

00:26:51.369 --> 00:26:54.049
in food. You know, fucking crazy, right? And

00:26:54.049 --> 00:26:55.930
that really, really changed me. And I realized

00:26:55.930 --> 00:26:57.690
that I don't want, and there were a couple of

00:26:57.690 --> 00:27:00.089
people that worked at Mugaritz that I really

00:27:00.089 --> 00:27:02.309
didn't respect when I was there. A couple of

00:27:02.309 --> 00:27:03.950
chef de parties and sous chefs and head chefs.

00:27:04.349 --> 00:27:06.650
And I saw them and I was like, you just don't

00:27:06.650 --> 00:27:08.690
know how to cook, do you? Like, what are you

00:27:08.690 --> 00:27:12.359
doing here? Like if the water bath breaks and

00:27:12.359 --> 00:27:13.859
there's a sous chef at the chef de party, they

00:27:13.859 --> 00:27:17.339
can't cook steaks. And I was like, I never, ever

00:27:17.339 --> 00:27:20.519
want to be that guy. Never, ever. If I become

00:27:20.519 --> 00:27:23.799
a chef de party, a sous chef, a head chef, I

00:27:23.799 --> 00:27:25.740
want people to look at something that I'm doing

00:27:25.740 --> 00:27:27.539
and be sort of like, oh, wow, that's really good.

00:27:27.599 --> 00:27:30.220
I want to be able to do that one day with everything,

00:27:30.380 --> 00:27:32.299
whether I'm cutting a brunoise, whether I'm roasting

00:27:32.299 --> 00:27:34.900
a pigeon, whether I'm filleting a fish, anything.

00:27:35.539 --> 00:27:37.839
I have to. That has to be the case. Otherwise,

00:27:37.859 --> 00:27:40.200
why the fuck would you work for me? And that

00:27:40.200 --> 00:27:42.339
was really like a big turning point. And then

00:27:42.339 --> 00:27:47.140
I particularly chose restaurants where I felt

00:27:47.140 --> 00:27:48.819
like they were really, really good at cooking,

00:27:48.900 --> 00:27:52.559
not the whole concept. You said many things that

00:27:52.559 --> 00:27:55.059
brought me some memories. Actually, we would

00:27:55.059 --> 00:27:57.799
also go to cider houses a lot while I was in

00:27:57.799 --> 00:27:59.920
Mugaritz. And I remember one of these cider houses

00:27:59.920 --> 00:28:03.440
I was with in Argentina and go co -worker also

00:28:03.440 --> 00:28:06.849
that year. And back then, we were cooking the

00:28:06.849 --> 00:28:10.009
gargiyu in Mugaritz. He and I were responsible

00:28:10.009 --> 00:28:12.730
for, you know, collecting 45 different leaves

00:28:12.730 --> 00:28:16.369
for every single plate from 45 different plants.

00:28:16.529 --> 00:28:19.170
And you would have, like, this ikebana of this

00:28:19.170 --> 00:28:21.470
salad where every leaf was a different plant.

00:28:21.809 --> 00:28:25.069
As you can imagine, it will take all day just

00:28:25.069 --> 00:28:28.650
to make that misanplas. And I remember he describing

00:28:28.650 --> 00:28:31.210
all the work. We were in a cider house, and he

00:28:31.210 --> 00:28:33.539
was telling... Yeah, and then you do this and

00:28:33.539 --> 00:28:35.480
that. And at the end, the dish is this little.

00:28:35.680 --> 00:28:39.039
It's like this. And the cider house worker were

00:28:39.039 --> 00:28:41.519
listening, you know, like they're just listening.

00:28:41.599 --> 00:28:43.420
They weren't part of the conversation. And they

00:28:43.420 --> 00:28:46.759
cracked laughing like, oh, you fucking idiots.

00:28:47.859 --> 00:28:51.140
Yeah, yeah, absolutely. And there are this many

00:28:51.140 --> 00:28:53.279
things about fine dining that I remember when

00:28:53.279 --> 00:28:55.160
I started cooking that I was really interested

00:28:55.160 --> 00:28:59.940
because I thought, like you said, like it's the

00:28:59.940 --> 00:29:02.200
highest level and everything. But then when it

00:29:02.200 --> 00:29:04.519
comes to these things where you see people spending

00:29:04.519 --> 00:29:08.460
three hours taking, I don't know, like a coriander

00:29:08.460 --> 00:29:12.440
leaf and cutting it in a square to make it, to

00:29:12.440 --> 00:29:14.059
put it on a plate. And at the end of the day,

00:29:14.099 --> 00:29:16.690
that... coriander leaf will taste exactly the

00:29:16.690 --> 00:29:19.569
same if it's a square or if it's its natural

00:29:19.569 --> 00:29:24.289
shape that nature wisely created for it you know

00:29:24.289 --> 00:29:27.089
like and these approaches these kind of things

00:29:27.089 --> 00:29:29.309
i remember also talking with a friend of us about

00:29:29.309 --> 00:29:31.029
this and he asked me but what do you think about

00:29:31.029 --> 00:29:33.829
this italian grandmothers that do the best stew

00:29:33.829 --> 00:29:37.059
in the world Is that comparable to what you see

00:29:37.059 --> 00:29:38.400
in a three -star restaurant? And I was like,

00:29:38.500 --> 00:29:40.299
yes, but in a three -star restaurant, they would

00:29:40.299 --> 00:29:43.819
put, like, coriander leaves cut and squares on

00:29:43.819 --> 00:29:47.059
top of that soup to make it, like, more fine

00:29:47.059 --> 00:29:50.339
dining -y, you know? And I recently also had,

00:29:50.400 --> 00:29:53.380
like, a lot of thought about, you just talked

00:29:53.380 --> 00:29:57.779
about impact. And we went to Noma together, and

00:29:57.779 --> 00:30:02.440
that was an impactful dinner. But I think Echavarri

00:30:02.440 --> 00:30:05.779
was more impactful because at Echavarri, we have

00:30:05.779 --> 00:30:08.980
like a 16 course menu. And from the 16 courses,

00:30:09.039 --> 00:30:12.279
I think about four or five, I can say is the

00:30:12.279 --> 00:30:14.299
best steak I've had, the best grilled fish I've

00:30:14.299 --> 00:30:17.099
had, the best caviar I've had, the best dessert

00:30:17.099 --> 00:30:19.400
I've had. And there was something else. I remember

00:30:19.400 --> 00:30:21.099
there were five things where I was like, wow,

00:30:21.240 --> 00:30:24.779
like saying that. These are big words, saying

00:30:24.779 --> 00:30:27.619
best steak or best grilled fish are big, big

00:30:27.619 --> 00:30:31.920
words. It's not just whatever. And even if I

00:30:31.920 --> 00:30:36.039
had impactful moments at Noma, I think that this

00:30:36.039 --> 00:30:41.259
has prevailed in my memory because they're touching

00:30:41.259 --> 00:30:46.140
a note, a reference that I already knew, so it's

00:30:46.140 --> 00:30:48.160
comparable with all of the other steaks I've

00:30:48.160 --> 00:30:51.789
ever tried. And at the same time, I think it's,

00:30:51.789 --> 00:30:58.329
for example, in art, I always prefer someone

00:30:58.329 --> 00:31:03.269
that applied width and that maybe with just two

00:31:03.269 --> 00:31:08.009
lines generated an aha effect, a moment where

00:31:08.009 --> 00:31:11.690
you say, oh, wow, that's really smart. And this

00:31:11.690 --> 00:31:16.190
person only needed five seconds, like Picasso,

00:31:16.390 --> 00:31:19.339
three lines and suddenly... wow, that's impactful

00:31:19.339 --> 00:31:21.460
and that's something I will remember and I won't

00:31:21.460 --> 00:31:24.519
forget or it makes me laugh. And it only took

00:31:24.519 --> 00:31:28.960
this person three lines to make. While when I

00:31:28.960 --> 00:31:31.279
see another artist that had like all of this

00:31:31.279 --> 00:31:34.720
elaboration of thousands of years to make a painting

00:31:34.720 --> 00:31:37.480
and at the end of the day, I might not even stop

00:31:37.480 --> 00:31:39.500
to look at it. I will look at it and go to the

00:31:39.500 --> 00:31:43.319
next one. You know what I mean? And I think for

00:31:43.319 --> 00:31:46.730
me... Personally, it's a matter of taste. I always

00:31:46.730 --> 00:31:51.529
find more value in doing a lot with little. For

00:31:51.529 --> 00:31:54.410
me, it's way more interesting. And I think that's

00:31:54.410 --> 00:31:56.170
something that, well, at the end of the day,

00:31:56.190 --> 00:31:58.430
Echavarri is fine dining too. It's not like it's

00:31:58.430 --> 00:32:01.589
like a cider house, you know? It's a Michelin

00:32:01.589 --> 00:32:03.549
star place, you know? And you get caviar and

00:32:03.549 --> 00:32:07.309
lobster and so on. But you won't find anything

00:32:07.309 --> 00:32:11.240
pretentious about it, I would say. Even though

00:32:11.240 --> 00:32:14.720
these are the finest products, it's not pretentious.

00:32:14.740 --> 00:32:18.299
It's just respectful and applying high -end technique.

00:32:18.970 --> 00:32:21.809
But there is no flory tour around it. He's not

00:32:21.809 --> 00:32:25.190
putting like, and nobody spent like the whole

00:32:25.190 --> 00:32:28.250
morning preparing some crackers with the shape

00:32:28.250 --> 00:32:31.769
of a Lego block to put it on top of the plate.

00:32:31.849 --> 00:32:35.809
And there was a stagiaire that was cutting leaves

00:32:35.809 --> 00:32:39.910
in square shapes and spent the whole week just

00:32:39.910 --> 00:32:42.210
doing that the whole day just to make a little

00:32:42.210 --> 00:32:45.529
mountain of squared cilantro leaves. And for

00:32:45.529 --> 00:32:47.269
me, that was from the very beginning like that.

00:32:47.900 --> 00:32:49.819
I would see that, and for me it was bullshit.

00:32:49.980 --> 00:32:52.019
When I would see the things, I was like, what's

00:32:52.019 --> 00:32:54.359
the purpose of this? Like, I don't get it, you

00:32:54.359 --> 00:32:57.519
know? And that's... That's my opinion on fine

00:32:57.519 --> 00:32:59.500
dining. And I do enjoy going to a fine dining

00:32:59.500 --> 00:33:02.099
restaurant every once in a while. And for me,

00:33:02.140 --> 00:33:04.259
it's an impactful experience. Also, a joyful

00:33:04.259 --> 00:33:07.359
experience enjoying not only the food, but also

00:33:07.359 --> 00:33:09.420
the setting and the environment and touching

00:33:09.420 --> 00:33:11.640
the textures of whatever, of the table and the

00:33:11.640 --> 00:33:14.839
dishware and everything, or the sounds or the

00:33:14.839 --> 00:33:17.700
smells or the air and everything. But yeah, I

00:33:17.700 --> 00:33:21.920
have that clear distinction of visions, of basically

00:33:21.920 --> 00:33:26.250
bullshit and a great experience. By the way,

00:33:26.289 --> 00:33:28.670
I'm not saying Noma was bullshit. It was probably

00:33:28.670 --> 00:33:31.710
one of the top meals in my life. I'm just making

00:33:31.710 --> 00:33:36.529
this distinction of making something that prevails

00:33:36.529 --> 00:33:39.210
in your mind. There were, of course, things that,

00:33:39.210 --> 00:33:41.869
even though tasted like nothing else I've ever

00:33:41.869 --> 00:33:44.630
tried, that I will remember all of my life. For

00:33:44.630 --> 00:33:47.369
example, that honeycomb kombucha. That's something

00:33:47.369 --> 00:33:50.730
that we had at Noma, and there were other things

00:33:50.730 --> 00:33:54.589
that I was like, wow. I think it's way more difficult,

00:33:54.630 --> 00:33:56.930
and I see more merit in doing the best steak

00:33:56.930 --> 00:33:58.789
in the world than doing something that no one

00:33:58.789 --> 00:34:03.349
has ever done before. Well, it's different approaches.

00:34:03.430 --> 00:34:05.069
I wouldn't say one is better than the other.

00:34:05.109 --> 00:34:07.589
It's just a matter of taste. No, I think that's

00:34:07.589 --> 00:34:11.309
really well put, how you've described it, and

00:34:11.309 --> 00:34:14.230
I completely agree with you. At the end of the

00:34:14.230 --> 00:34:17.340
day, it's a common thread. no in cooking in art

00:34:17.340 --> 00:34:21.000
and music um that you know this the whole idea

00:34:21.000 --> 00:34:24.500
of doing less um but not just doing less doing

00:34:24.500 --> 00:34:27.960
less right you know like hitting that perfect

00:34:27.960 --> 00:34:30.820
note you know and that's so so extremely difficult

00:34:30.820 --> 00:34:32.360
and it's like you know there's this really beautiful

00:34:32.360 --> 00:34:34.400
clip of marco pier white where he's like he's

00:34:34.400 --> 00:34:36.820
talking about that the really great chefs let

00:34:36.820 --> 00:34:39.340
mother nature be the artist and but there's this

00:34:39.340 --> 00:34:42.519
uh this this time like and that's obviously like

00:34:42.519 --> 00:34:44.599
an opinion you know that's like one approach

00:34:45.159 --> 00:34:47.119
But there's this like part where he says sort

00:34:47.119 --> 00:34:49.619
of like, they make it seem so simple, don't they?

00:34:49.880 --> 00:34:52.780
But it's not, you know? And that's exactly it.

00:34:52.840 --> 00:34:55.440
It's kind of like the simpleness, doing less,

00:34:55.659 --> 00:34:59.599
but doing less like exactly right, hitting the

00:34:59.599 --> 00:35:01.960
nail on the head. And that's so extremely difficult

00:35:01.960 --> 00:35:04.699
and it takes so much because what you're basically

00:35:04.699 --> 00:35:07.400
talking about is, you know, with this cutting

00:35:07.400 --> 00:35:09.480
things into squares and stuff, that's superficial,

00:35:09.800 --> 00:35:13.210
right? It's all superficial. superficial things

00:35:13.210 --> 00:35:16.130
that try to fill out a space, a space where the

00:35:16.130 --> 00:35:18.329
substantial is supposed to be. And the substantial

00:35:18.329 --> 00:35:21.929
is the soul of what you're having and the impact

00:35:21.929 --> 00:35:24.789
it has. Everything else is just fluff. It's just

00:35:24.789 --> 00:35:27.309
decoration. Yeah, and another analogy, for example,

00:35:27.369 --> 00:35:30.429
as you know, I love rap music, you know, and

00:35:30.429 --> 00:35:33.170
it's not the same like a rapper that tries to

00:35:33.170 --> 00:35:35.949
put as many words in 10 seconds as possible and

00:35:35.949 --> 00:35:40.349
does that. As someone that just uses three or

00:35:40.349 --> 00:35:42.920
four words and is... bam, it's impactful and

00:35:42.920 --> 00:35:45.780
it creates an image and it's memorable and it

00:35:45.780 --> 00:35:49.260
has like a triple meaning. And, you know, like

00:35:49.260 --> 00:35:52.699
that's for me what art is about, in my opinion.

00:35:57.460 --> 00:36:00.000
That's it for this week's episode of Potluck

00:36:00.000 --> 00:36:02.440
Food Talks. If you like what we're doing, make

00:36:02.440 --> 00:36:04.719
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00:36:04.719 --> 00:36:07.360
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