WEBVTT 00:00:00.360 --> 00:00:10.339 You're listening to Heritage Radio Network. Hi, 00:00:10.480 --> 00:00:13.300 everyone. Welcome to Pot Luck Food Talks. I'm 00:00:13.300 --> 00:00:20.940 here with Filippi Nigiri -san. No? And we're 00:00:20.940 --> 00:00:27.559 going to talk about fats. The controversial world 00:00:27.559 --> 00:00:32.390 of fats. yeah yeah it is kind of controversial 00:00:32.390 --> 00:00:35.289 isn't it i mean lots of people think fats are 00:00:35.289 --> 00:00:41.689 really bad no yeah do you think um can you imagine 00:00:41.689 --> 00:00:44.729 of a cuisine without fat is that even possible 00:00:44.729 --> 00:00:48.009 no i don't think so it's not possible it's um 00:00:48.009 --> 00:00:54.649 no honestly not i mean no fats at all no well 00:00:54.649 --> 00:01:00.090 i i first of all In the evolution of humans, 00:01:00.409 --> 00:01:04.189 fats played a key role in the development of 00:01:04.189 --> 00:01:07.010 the brain. So if you were thinking you should 00:01:07.010 --> 00:01:10.370 avoid all fats all the time, well, that's just 00:01:10.370 --> 00:01:14.769 not good for your body, basically. That's fucking 00:01:14.769 --> 00:01:18.689 stupid. And you're an idiot if you think that. 00:01:19.810 --> 00:01:23.310 Yeah, no, I mean, like, obviously fats, there 00:01:23.310 --> 00:01:26.909 has to be a healthy and conscious approach to 00:01:26.909 --> 00:01:30.090 fats. But many fats are really, really crucial 00:01:30.090 --> 00:01:33.890 and really good for you. You know, I mean, cold 00:01:33.890 --> 00:01:38.930 pressed extra virgin olive oil is proven to decrease 00:01:38.930 --> 00:01:42.969 depression. Have you heard about that? No. Apparently 00:01:42.969 --> 00:01:48.129 a tablespoon of, it has to be cold pressed, extra 00:01:48.129 --> 00:01:51.290 virgin, high quality olive. Olive oil, there's 00:01:51.290 --> 00:01:54.489 such a huge range of quality and there's some 00:01:54.489 --> 00:01:56.890 olive oils that you might as well be consuming 00:01:56.890 --> 00:02:00.409 petroleum. Olive oil, when it's good, it's really 00:02:00.409 --> 00:02:03.549 fucking good. And it's really good for you also. 00:02:03.849 --> 00:02:06.950 And as you said, when it's bad, it's not good 00:02:06.950 --> 00:02:11.430 at all. I see people trying to be greedy and 00:02:11.430 --> 00:02:13.389 they buy the cheapest olive oil in the supermarket 00:02:13.389 --> 00:02:16.250 here in Spain, which is not even extra virgin. 00:02:17.519 --> 00:02:20.699 And actually, sunflower oil is better than that. 00:02:21.539 --> 00:02:24.039 Yeah, yeah, yeah, totally. I heard the other 00:02:24.039 --> 00:02:27.639 day, I don't know who from, but they keep finding 00:02:27.639 --> 00:02:32.460 a large amount of traces of gasoline in olive 00:02:32.460 --> 00:02:36.020 oil because a lot of the pumps that they use 00:02:36.020 --> 00:02:40.719 for cheap olive oil are gasoline -fueled. So 00:02:40.719 --> 00:02:43.360 they have an engine that they fuel with gasoline 00:02:43.360 --> 00:02:47.259 that make it like... run the press and the fumes 00:02:47.259 --> 00:02:49.439 of that they get absorbed by the olive oil because 00:02:49.439 --> 00:02:52.340 obviously oil absorbs things very very easily 00:02:52.340 --> 00:02:55.319 and so you're basically consuming gasoline fumes 00:02:55.319 --> 00:02:58.939 and that's which also happens if you consume 00:02:58.939 --> 00:03:01.159 cocaine is one of the main ingredients of cocaine 00:03:01.159 --> 00:03:04.099 now you know that children you just mentioned 00:03:04.099 --> 00:03:06.860 something very crucial is that oils and fats 00:03:06.860 --> 00:03:12.250 are flavor and aroma carriers, conductors, and 00:03:12.250 --> 00:03:14.330 that's what makes them so interesting in cooking 00:03:14.330 --> 00:03:19.430 for marinades, but also just spread spices or 00:03:19.430 --> 00:03:24.569 herbs and some elaboration. It's also a heat 00:03:24.569 --> 00:03:27.750 conductor, and that's why you use it for both 00:03:27.750 --> 00:03:31.069 functionalities when you're basting. You're basically... 00:03:31.659 --> 00:03:36.080 Put in your buttery, aromatized flavors all over 00:03:36.080 --> 00:03:40.759 your steak or whatever you're basting. And yeah, 00:03:40.860 --> 00:03:44.259 I think that's why I can't imagine a cuisine 00:03:44.259 --> 00:03:47.639 without fats, because it has that function, you 00:03:47.639 --> 00:03:50.659 know? Yeah, absolutely. I mean, like if I had 00:03:50.659 --> 00:03:54.979 to stretch my imagination a lot and I'd imagine 00:03:54.979 --> 00:03:59.969 a cuisine. that is entirely broth and steam -based 00:03:59.969 --> 00:04:02.870 and stuff like that. There's still intrinsic 00:04:02.870 --> 00:04:09.030 essential oils to so many ingredients that I 00:04:09.030 --> 00:04:11.870 would say I can't imagine a cuisine without fats. 00:04:11.990 --> 00:04:14.129 And yeah, you know, like butter, obviously. We 00:04:14.129 --> 00:04:16.209 can't talk about fats without talking about butter. 00:04:16.310 --> 00:04:21.279 Butter in Western cooking is king. I mean, apart 00:04:21.279 --> 00:04:23.319 from olive oil butter in all of our butter countries 00:04:23.319 --> 00:04:25.680 and all of our countries. But just as olive oil, 00:04:25.839 --> 00:04:28.500 people give butter a really bad rep. But butter, 00:04:28.639 --> 00:04:34.079 again, there's such a huge range of quality from 00:04:34.079 --> 00:04:37.560 poorly made butter to very, very nutrient -rich 00:04:37.560 --> 00:04:42.040 butter. And butter is a very good food supplement 00:04:42.040 --> 00:04:46.740 for you with very healthy fats and amino acids, 00:04:46.839 --> 00:04:52.490 which are crucial to... um for you to to function 00:04:52.490 --> 00:04:57.769 and yeah what dishes are like heavily butter 00:04:57.769 --> 00:05:01.990 based well for example like a good um i can think 00:05:01.990 --> 00:05:06.089 of a lemon pie you know like a lemon cream oh 00:05:06.089 --> 00:05:09.689 yeah which is basically lemon infused butter 00:05:09.689 --> 00:05:16.129 with some other stuff with a little bit of yeah 00:05:16.129 --> 00:05:20.620 egg and and whatever but it's You would be surprised 00:05:20.620 --> 00:05:22.959 how little lemon there is in your lemon pie. 00:05:24.139 --> 00:05:27.980 I have an amazing recipe for lemon pie. It's 00:05:27.980 --> 00:05:31.920 like I found it last year. Well, I didn't find 00:05:31.920 --> 00:05:34.860 it. Katie gave it to me. It's a recipe from Gordon 00:05:34.860 --> 00:05:37.620 Ramsay that I changed up a little bit. And it's 00:05:37.620 --> 00:05:39.980 become my absolutely favorite. I can't imagine 00:05:39.980 --> 00:05:42.279 that there's a better recipe for lemon, like 00:05:42.279 --> 00:05:45.939 a lemon custard. And it's so ingenious and it's 00:05:45.939 --> 00:05:48.939 so easy and so cool. But it's like. I think there's 00:05:48.939 --> 00:05:51.339 like a quarter of citrus juice in it. The rest 00:05:51.339 --> 00:05:54.879 is egg and butter and sugar. And still it tastes 00:05:54.879 --> 00:05:57.120 really, really citrusy, really lemony, really 00:05:57.120 --> 00:05:59.860 bright. Pretty much, yeah. I used to make one 00:05:59.860 --> 00:06:03.079 from Pierre Hermé. And yeah, the thing had so 00:06:03.079 --> 00:06:06.560 much butter that you had to put it like in batches, 00:06:06.560 --> 00:06:13.199 you know, while the Blitz is running. But I mean, 00:06:13.240 --> 00:06:16.000 there are so many things where basically you're 00:06:16.000 --> 00:06:18.779 eating butter with some other stuff, like a croissant, 00:06:19.079 --> 00:06:21.639 like a brioche. That shit has so much butter. 00:06:21.740 --> 00:06:27.339 And that's what keeps these dairy fatty flavors. 00:06:28.199 --> 00:06:31.639 Absolutely, yeah. And often also this light lactic 00:06:31.639 --> 00:06:34.920 acidity. I love it when things have this butter, 00:06:35.100 --> 00:06:38.920 this sourness from well -made dairy. I think 00:06:38.920 --> 00:06:41.939 to me that's super, super tasty. I mean, like, 00:06:41.980 --> 00:06:44.540 you know, mashed potatoes. I mean, the Robuchon 00:06:44.540 --> 00:06:50.839 mashed potatoes. Ah, also 60 % butter or 70%. 00:06:50.839 --> 00:06:54.060 Basically, yeah. And I started making my mashed 00:06:54.060 --> 00:06:56.000 potatoes very differently. I used to, like, melt 00:06:56.000 --> 00:06:58.240 butter in milk and add it to the potatoes and 00:06:58.240 --> 00:07:01.500 stuff. Nowadays, I boil good quality potatoes. 00:07:01.879 --> 00:07:05.540 I peel them. I rice them. And while they're hot, 00:07:05.680 --> 00:07:08.920 I keep adding butter and melting it, like, folding 00:07:08.920 --> 00:07:13.199 it into the potatoes. until I feel like the whole 00:07:13.199 --> 00:07:16.480 thing is going to split completely. And then 00:07:16.480 --> 00:07:19.019 I start adding some hot milk just to bring it 00:07:19.019 --> 00:07:21.060 back together and keep the emulsification going. 00:07:21.259 --> 00:07:25.540 And it's the best mashed potato ever. The texture 00:07:25.540 --> 00:07:28.639 is perfect. The flavor is perfect. That's pretty 00:07:28.639 --> 00:07:31.600 much the Rabuchon one. It's pretty much, as you 00:07:31.600 --> 00:07:35.829 said, you add the butter. uh never never melted 00:07:35.829 --> 00:07:39.350 more like cold or yeah cold and in cubes so you 00:07:39.350 --> 00:07:43.449 you can let it melt while it's mixing and it's 00:07:43.449 --> 00:07:46.430 super good and it's like sometimes you sometimes 00:07:46.430 --> 00:07:49.230 i mean as chef you taste something and you can 00:07:49.230 --> 00:07:52.290 tell it needs more fat right like like a sauce 00:07:52.290 --> 00:07:54.269 and sometimes you're like addressing or something 00:07:54.269 --> 00:07:55.990 you'll taste it and you'll be like now we need 00:07:55.990 --> 00:07:58.610 to emulsify some fat into this to round it out 00:07:58.610 --> 00:08:01.680 to give it this There's the silkiness, but also 00:08:01.680 --> 00:08:04.160 not just in the texture visually, but on the 00:08:04.160 --> 00:08:07.740 mouthfeel. There's really smart ways of using 00:08:07.740 --> 00:08:10.079 fat also, especially animal fats. I think animal 00:08:10.079 --> 00:08:12.319 fats are also really underrated. I was going 00:08:12.319 --> 00:08:14.560 into that because, I mean, olive oil and butter 00:08:14.560 --> 00:08:17.100 are pretty common sense, you know, and we could... 00:08:17.360 --> 00:08:19.420 Make a whole episode about butter. We could talk 00:08:19.420 --> 00:08:22.879 about roasted butter or clarified butter and 00:08:22.879 --> 00:08:24.839 these kind of things. But yeah, using animal 00:08:24.839 --> 00:08:28.680 fats like chuleta fat, one of my favorite ingredients 00:08:28.680 --> 00:08:33.539 in the world. 100%. Dog fat, same. And chicken 00:08:33.539 --> 00:08:38.279 fat, also super cool. Very, very widely used 00:08:38.279 --> 00:08:42.220 in Jewish cooking as schmaltz. Schmaltz, correct. 00:08:43.450 --> 00:08:45.690 super nice i don't know why it isn't like more 00:08:45.690 --> 00:08:47.509 widely used because it's like it's absolutely 00:08:47.509 --> 00:08:50.570 delicious also beef tallow which is beef fat 00:08:50.570 --> 00:08:54.129 it's so good i mean from like really obvious 00:08:54.129 --> 00:08:57.110 things like roasting potatoes or something or 00:08:57.110 --> 00:08:59.990 vegetables but you know like what i used to do 00:08:59.990 --> 00:09:03.389 with all the wagyu fat i used to trim the the 00:09:03.389 --> 00:09:07.750 fat cap off dice it down and then render it slowly 00:09:07.750 --> 00:09:10.480 so all the fat melts But then all the solids 00:09:10.480 --> 00:09:12.480 that remain, keep cooking them until they crisp 00:09:12.480 --> 00:09:15.299 up and brown. And then you strain that fat off 00:09:15.299 --> 00:09:18.820 and you have this like roasted meat fat. And 00:09:18.820 --> 00:09:22.179 using that to just like brush your fat instead 00:09:22.179 --> 00:09:25.100 of like using oil or brush your meat, instead 00:09:25.100 --> 00:09:27.340 of like using oil or whatever while you're grilling 00:09:27.340 --> 00:09:30.720 it or like glazing it afterwards, it super boosts 00:09:30.720 --> 00:09:34.000 your meat flavor. It's so good. And it's not 00:09:34.000 --> 00:09:37.220 an unhealthy fat. It's not a refined sort of 00:09:37.220 --> 00:09:42.039 like processed. Completely natural. I've also 00:09:42.039 --> 00:09:46.580 had fries, French fries, potatoes in goose fat 00:09:46.580 --> 00:09:50.759 or in cow fat. Also super, super, super nice. 00:09:50.980 --> 00:09:53.279 It's so good, yeah. Once I went to a restaurant 00:09:53.279 --> 00:09:55.899 in London called Lyle's. Very well -known restaurant. 00:09:56.019 --> 00:09:58.460 It's really, really good. And they had a dessert 00:09:58.460 --> 00:10:02.539 on with a really beautiful, like, buttery caramel 00:10:02.539 --> 00:10:06.899 sauce. And it was really complex and nice. One 00:10:06.899 --> 00:10:08.799 of the waiters came to us. He was sort of like, 00:10:08.899 --> 00:10:10.120 yeah, how do you like the dessert? And I was 00:10:10.120 --> 00:10:11.899 like, yeah, super nice. And he was like, can 00:10:11.899 --> 00:10:14.659 you tell what the secret ingredient is? And we 00:10:14.659 --> 00:10:17.340 couldn't. And he was like, the caramel is made 00:10:17.340 --> 00:10:21.799 with duck fat. So they emulsified, instead of 00:10:21.799 --> 00:10:24.840 using butter, how you would for traditional like 00:10:24.840 --> 00:10:28.019 butter caramel, they used roasted duck fat. And 00:10:28.019 --> 00:10:33.679 it gave this caramel this like really deep, complex 00:10:33.679 --> 00:10:36.639 taste. And it wasn't like immediately apparent. 00:10:36.960 --> 00:10:40.960 It didn't taste like duck, right? But it was 00:10:40.960 --> 00:10:43.779 really, really smart. And I really love using 00:10:43.779 --> 00:10:47.039 fats like this in a creative way. Also, if you 00:10:47.039 --> 00:10:51.559 see like very old pastry recipes like cookies, 00:10:51.740 --> 00:10:53.600 and then especially here in Spain, you will find 00:10:53.600 --> 00:10:57.179 a lot of pork fat going on in those cookies as 00:10:57.179 --> 00:11:00.279 a secret ingredient. Mm. Pork fat, man. Pork 00:11:00.279 --> 00:11:03.000 fat is amazing. You know, like after, um, being 00:11:03.000 --> 00:11:06.059 to Mexico, um, I have a new, uh, found appreciation 00:11:06.059 --> 00:11:09.779 for pork fat as in like, you know, I feel like, 00:11:10.139 --> 00:11:13.919 yeah. And even tortillas, even like tortillas, 00:11:13.919 --> 00:11:19.500 um, the arena flour tortillas. Um, I had, it 00:11:19.500 --> 00:11:21.500 seems like such a simple thing, right? A flour, 00:11:21.620 --> 00:11:26.019 wheat flour, flatbread. I've tried to make them. 00:11:26.669 --> 00:11:29.090 few times at home and i'm a chef i can make a 00:11:29.090 --> 00:11:31.470 flatbread right it's just not quite the same 00:11:31.470 --> 00:11:35.330 as you know as the the grandmas in in mexico 00:11:35.330 --> 00:11:37.929 were making it and then i started like asking 00:11:37.929 --> 00:11:39.289 a couple of friends of mine and they were sending 00:11:39.289 --> 00:11:42.129 me recipes and they all use pork fat for their 00:11:42.129 --> 00:11:45.009 tortillas there's a little bit of there's a little 00:11:45.009 --> 00:11:47.090 bit of manteca in there and i feel like it gives 00:11:47.090 --> 00:11:49.870 it this like little je ne sais quoi it's amazing 00:11:49.870 --> 00:11:54.110 yeah You know what is also crazy? Have you heard, 00:11:54.230 --> 00:11:57.909 you probably have, about ketogenic diet? Yeah. 00:11:58.970 --> 00:12:02.029 That's insane because it's so counterintuitive. 00:12:02.029 --> 00:12:04.610 I tried to do it once, but if you don't do it 00:12:04.610 --> 00:12:07.690 100%, it can be very dangerous and very bad. 00:12:07.870 --> 00:12:10.409 So you have to pull it off until the end. And 00:12:10.409 --> 00:12:14.870 it's basically a high -fat diet. So you add, 00:12:15.070 --> 00:12:17.149 I don't know, like butter to your coffee and 00:12:17.149 --> 00:12:19.529 your breakfast is yogurt with extra olive oil. 00:12:19.629 --> 00:12:22.789 And then you have like a bowl of butter for lunch. 00:12:25.090 --> 00:12:28.049 So you really have to rethink about what food 00:12:28.049 --> 00:12:30.149 is and how it works. And what happens in your 00:12:30.149 --> 00:12:34.690 body is that once you get cetosis or ketosis 00:12:34.690 --> 00:12:38.299 in English. it's like a change of metabolism 00:12:38.299 --> 00:12:42.019 that your body starts to use instead of carbs, 00:12:42.139 --> 00:12:46.320 fats as energy. So there's a change in the energy 00:12:46.320 --> 00:12:48.960 generation system of your... But of course, if 00:12:48.960 --> 00:12:50.940 you add a little bit of carb to the formula, 00:12:51.039 --> 00:12:56.799 it gets reversed. And this is not only for weight 00:12:56.799 --> 00:13:00.000 loss, but it's also a very recommended diet for 00:13:00.000 --> 00:13:05.200 people with cancer. because this kind of diet, 00:13:05.279 --> 00:13:09.240 it helps very much to kill the cancer cells. 00:13:10.720 --> 00:13:14.799 They can't survive in such a fatty body, apparently. 00:13:15.399 --> 00:13:18.940 As I said, I tried to do it, and it's very counterintuitive, 00:13:18.940 --> 00:13:21.080 everything, because, you know, lots of nuts, 00:13:21.200 --> 00:13:24.700 lots of oils. While I was trying it, you can 00:13:24.700 --> 00:13:28.740 get satiated pretty easy with a high -fat diet, 00:13:28.799 --> 00:13:32.080 you know. What other fats? Coconut fat? Do you 00:13:32.080 --> 00:13:36.320 like coconut fat? Yes and no. Not so much. I 00:13:36.320 --> 00:13:39.080 think it's cool when you have real coconut cream 00:13:39.080 --> 00:13:41.700 and you skim the fat off, like in Thai cooking, 00:13:41.840 --> 00:13:44.980 and you use that. It's a very different fat to 00:13:44.980 --> 00:13:47.480 use. Not the refined super, like the coconut 00:13:47.480 --> 00:13:50.320 fat that you buy in the supermarket, but that 00:13:50.320 --> 00:13:52.720 kind of thing, like to cook a curry paste before 00:13:52.720 --> 00:13:55.019 you add the coconut milk. That is very cool, 00:13:55.080 --> 00:13:58.620 I think. That's very, very interesting. But what 00:13:58.620 --> 00:14:01.360 I also think is... that's very underappreciated 00:14:01.360 --> 00:14:06.539 is high quality like alternate alternates like 00:14:06.539 --> 00:14:09.620 nut oils like for example here in germany we 00:14:09.620 --> 00:14:14.480 can buy um really high quality walnut oil like 00:14:14.480 --> 00:14:17.559 cold pressed walnut oil it's insane absolutely 00:14:17.559 --> 00:14:19.659 insane we're making an ice cream with it here 00:14:19.659 --> 00:14:23.000 so like a white walnut ice cream that has no 00:14:23.000 --> 00:14:25.500 actual walnuts in it just like cold pressed walnut 00:14:25.500 --> 00:14:30.000 oil as an ice cream super cool that sounds delicious 00:14:30.000 --> 00:14:32.519 yeah and it was it's like a completely different 00:14:32.519 --> 00:14:35.340 flavor because it's almost like green walnuts 00:14:35.340 --> 00:14:38.500 you know so it's like really it's just very different 00:14:38.500 --> 00:14:43.940 but also things like um plum seed oil ah that's 00:14:43.940 --> 00:14:46.480 incredible amazing right i mean remember how 00:14:46.480 --> 00:14:50.440 we were using it in margot yeah For like certain 00:14:50.440 --> 00:14:53.720 things, absolutely incredible. But for that matter, 00:14:53.899 --> 00:14:57.620 any stone fruit oil, you know, it could be plums, 00:14:57.639 --> 00:15:01.840 it could be cherries. Apricots. Yeah. Yeah, totally. 00:15:01.960 --> 00:15:03.960 Yeah, cherry pit oil, for example, also super 00:15:03.960 --> 00:15:08.080 delicious. We used to make a cherry pit vinaigrette 00:15:08.080 --> 00:15:11.220 here at the restaurant where we'd use like cherry 00:15:11.220 --> 00:15:14.659 vinegar and cherry pit oil a little bit and olive 00:15:14.659 --> 00:15:17.120 oil and stuff. Super, super nice. It's such a 00:15:17.120 --> 00:15:20.330 unique flavor. um that you can find and sort 00:15:20.330 --> 00:15:23.769 of like like for me it's like umeboshi kind of 00:15:23.769 --> 00:15:26.350 tastes like that it has this like very particular 00:15:26.350 --> 00:15:30.690 oh what's it it's like i'm almost arsenic you 00:15:30.690 --> 00:15:35.269 know it's like um alwyn flavor do you like avocado 00:15:35.269 --> 00:15:37.950 oil i have not used avocado oil that much i think 00:15:37.950 --> 00:15:43.429 honestly okay uh you yeah it's not among my favorites 00:15:43.429 --> 00:15:48.519 like i i feel it Avocado is fatty in itself, 00:15:48.679 --> 00:15:52.659 so I think avocado is a very good source of fattiness. 00:15:52.899 --> 00:15:56.899 Oh yeah, for sure. And it also has these aromas, 00:15:56.960 --> 00:16:00.480 and you usually add some acidity to it, and you 00:16:00.480 --> 00:16:04.320 have your fatty thing. And when it comes to avocado 00:16:04.320 --> 00:16:07.200 oil, I'm like, there's a lot of stuff missing 00:16:07.200 --> 00:16:10.720 there, because it's made, again, with the seeds. 00:16:11.360 --> 00:16:17.149 Yeah. What about egg yolks? Egg yolks. Would 00:16:17.149 --> 00:16:21.129 you count egg yolks as a fat? What percentage 00:16:21.129 --> 00:16:30.870 of egg yolks is fat? I don't know. 35%. 35%. 00:16:30.870 --> 00:16:34.269 Yeah, I don't know. For me, they enter kind of 00:16:34.269 --> 00:16:42.450 like into the fatty category. Well, what about 00:16:42.450 --> 00:16:46.450 the emulsions? All kinds of mayos, aliolis, all 00:16:46.450 --> 00:16:49.389 those sauces. It's like 80 % fat, basically. 00:16:49.610 --> 00:16:52.990 Basically, if you're eating mayonnaise, it's 00:16:52.990 --> 00:16:58.710 like drinking oil. Basically. And it's really 00:16:58.710 --> 00:17:03.149 scary because I'm a person that if I have a plate 00:17:03.149 --> 00:17:05.950 of chips, like a plate of French fries, I could 00:17:05.950 --> 00:17:10.329 just finish a fucking pint of mayonnaise or aioli, 00:17:10.329 --> 00:17:13.500 you know? Jesus Christ. But yeah, I mean, emotions, 00:17:13.599 --> 00:17:17.960 knowing and understanding emotions and how they 00:17:17.960 --> 00:17:20.680 work and what you can do with them. I think it's 00:17:20.680 --> 00:17:22.799 one of the most important skills for a chef. 00:17:22.900 --> 00:17:26.519 It's such a huge, huge thing. I mean, like even 00:17:26.519 --> 00:17:31.140 a good dressing versus a bad dressing. I have 00:17:31.140 --> 00:17:36.180 very early on figured out how to make nice salad 00:17:36.180 --> 00:17:38.619 dressings by making, and I was making my salad 00:17:38.619 --> 00:17:40.160 dressings almost like I was making mayonnaise. 00:17:40.750 --> 00:17:42.549 I was emulsifying them until they were very, 00:17:42.630 --> 00:17:45.789 very thick. I was seasoning them like very intensely, 00:17:45.890 --> 00:17:48.470 like nice point of acidity, nice point of salt 00:17:48.470 --> 00:17:51.250 and enough sweetness to balance out the acidity. 00:17:51.250 --> 00:17:53.849 So it's harmonious. It would like coat the salad 00:17:53.849 --> 00:17:55.890 in like a really nice way and be just like a 00:17:55.890 --> 00:18:00.710 super pungent flavor thing. And like, just if 00:18:00.710 --> 00:18:04.490 you understand that and you can take so, so many 00:18:04.490 --> 00:18:07.549 preparations further. In Mugaritz, for example, 00:18:07.549 --> 00:18:11.240 we were making a fat emulsion made out of chuleta 00:18:11.240 --> 00:18:16.559 fat, which you mentioned earlier. Yeah, I had 00:18:16.559 --> 00:18:23.059 that with artichokes. Super nice. Grilled artichokes 00:18:23.059 --> 00:18:27.519 with chuleta mayo. There's nothing better in 00:18:27.519 --> 00:18:29.599 life. Yeah, and it's really cool because usually 00:18:29.599 --> 00:18:32.940 it'd be sort of like the meat in the centerpiece 00:18:32.940 --> 00:18:35.299 and then have a side of artichokes. And here 00:18:35.299 --> 00:18:39.490 you have the vegetable as the main actor. and 00:18:39.490 --> 00:18:42.509 still have the, like, roasty fattiness from the 00:18:42.509 --> 00:18:46.569 chuleta to accentuate it, which is really, really 00:18:46.569 --> 00:18:49.089 nice. For me, that's the best way to cook vegetables, 00:18:49.190 --> 00:18:53.650 to be honest, to have vegetables with some layer 00:18:53.650 --> 00:18:58.289 of animal fat or animal protein, you know, pretty 00:18:58.289 --> 00:19:01.769 much like the way you find it in woks in Asia. 00:19:02.740 --> 00:19:06.259 But yeah, or cooking vegetables in chicken fat 00:19:06.259 --> 00:19:10.460 or adding, you know, pieces of Iberico ham to 00:19:10.460 --> 00:19:12.980 the whatever you're doing. It's just the best 00:19:12.980 --> 00:19:21.359 way to eat them. Sorry, vegans. Yeah, for sure. 00:19:21.440 --> 00:19:25.180 You know what I think is a really underrated 00:19:25.180 --> 00:19:29.000 and mis, not misused, but like, yeah, just very 00:19:29.000 --> 00:19:30.819 underrated and there's not enough knowledge about 00:19:30.819 --> 00:19:35.000 it is. cream and things like cream fresh and 00:19:35.000 --> 00:19:38.160 stuff like that um i think people don't really 00:19:38.160 --> 00:19:41.380 know what good cream is anymore like people buy 00:19:41.380 --> 00:19:45.039 the fucking tefrapaks from from the supermarket 00:19:45.039 --> 00:19:47.619 and they you know they pour it into their sauces 00:19:47.619 --> 00:19:51.259 it's like the super standardized thing i was 00:19:51.259 --> 00:19:53.819 reminded of this last year when i was kind of 00:19:53.819 --> 00:19:56.819 trying out new suppliers and i was looking around 00:19:56.819 --> 00:20:01.569 and there was this one place that um specializes 00:20:01.569 --> 00:20:03.809 in organic produce and they had these like buckets 00:20:03.809 --> 00:20:07.190 of high quality cream from a local dairy here 00:20:07.190 --> 00:20:09.630 and i was like okay cool it's like a five kilo 00:20:09.630 --> 00:20:11.950 bucket and it's like well it's a little bit less 00:20:11.950 --> 00:20:14.970 practical but i wanted to give it a try and it 00:20:14.970 --> 00:20:18.069 came and it was like just how cream should be 00:20:18.069 --> 00:20:22.430 really thick solid layer on the top that you 00:20:22.430 --> 00:20:24.170 kind of have to mix it with the liquid is like 00:20:24.170 --> 00:20:26.670 split because there's no emulsifiers right it's 00:20:26.670 --> 00:20:30.130 just a natural product And immediately I noticed 00:20:30.130 --> 00:20:34.049 such a huge difference. And then you think to 00:20:34.049 --> 00:20:35.970 like old school cooking where you have like, 00:20:35.990 --> 00:20:39.609 you know, poulet à la crème, right? Just like 00:20:39.609 --> 00:20:41.589 chicken in a cream sauce with like mushrooms 00:20:41.589 --> 00:20:44.549 or whatever. You add a spoonful of this cream 00:20:44.549 --> 00:20:46.849 and you put it in. The flavor and the texture 00:20:46.849 --> 00:20:49.670 immediately gets really thick and creamy. While 00:20:49.670 --> 00:20:51.289 with like the other cream, you have to reduce 00:20:51.289 --> 00:20:54.190 it down and whatnot. Completely different. And 00:20:54.190 --> 00:20:56.369 it really made me think that this thing that 00:20:56.369 --> 00:21:00.180 we're using. like um this cream is that we buy 00:21:00.180 --> 00:21:02.440 in the supermarket it's nothing to do with the 00:21:02.440 --> 00:21:05.019 real product the way that it used to be the same 00:21:05.019 --> 00:21:10.299 with milk right like i think of the mamia you 00:21:10.299 --> 00:21:15.339 know that used with a like a nice caserio milk 00:21:15.339 --> 00:21:18.259 right where you can taste the grass that the 00:21:18.259 --> 00:21:21.059 cow has been eating and then you compare it to 00:21:21.059 --> 00:21:23.500 this like milk it's like milk is fucking everywhere 00:21:23.500 --> 00:21:25.950 it's in every fucking coffee shop It's just a 00:21:25.950 --> 00:21:28.849 white liquid, really. There's nothing really 00:21:28.849 --> 00:21:32.109 to it. And I think it's a really important topic. 00:21:32.289 --> 00:21:34.329 It's the same with creme fraiche, right? Creme 00:21:34.329 --> 00:21:39.670 fraiche is a cultured cream. If you've ever tried 00:21:39.670 --> 00:21:42.710 a freshly well -cultured creme fraiche, it's 00:21:42.710 --> 00:21:47.369 incredible, the flavor. And if people would put 00:21:47.369 --> 00:21:52.049 more effort into sourcing or making things like 00:21:52.049 --> 00:21:55.109 that. I think it would impact cooking for people 00:21:55.109 --> 00:21:58.470 in a massive way because immediately it's like 00:21:58.470 --> 00:22:02.690 a jump that's like five times better. What about 00:22:02.690 --> 00:22:05.309 clarified butter? You know, I was recently... 00:22:05.309 --> 00:22:07.289 We haven't talked about this. I had a recent 00:22:07.289 --> 00:22:11.190 trip to New York and Boston. And yeah, I went 00:22:11.190 --> 00:22:14.970 to this place in the docks in Boston. I think 00:22:14.970 --> 00:22:17.529 it's Sail Loft is the name. It's like a very 00:22:17.529 --> 00:22:20.609 traditional place. And I was recommended to have 00:22:20.609 --> 00:22:23.430 the clam chowder there. which you get served 00:22:23.430 --> 00:22:29.349 like in a ceramic jar. And it's, you know, overflowing, 00:22:29.430 --> 00:22:32.849 super thick, quite delicious. Apparently there 00:22:32.849 --> 00:22:35.109 are two schools of chowder. One is like more 00:22:35.109 --> 00:22:38.569 creamy. The other one is more like a brothy liquid 00:22:38.569 --> 00:22:41.829 texture. They're both very different. I wouldn't 00:22:41.829 --> 00:22:45.549 say I like one better than the other. And then 00:22:45.549 --> 00:22:48.329 I had like a lobster roll, like the classic lobster 00:22:48.329 --> 00:22:50.789 rolls you get in Boston is one of the iconic 00:22:50.789 --> 00:22:53.630 things you get there. So it was this roll and 00:22:53.630 --> 00:22:56.069 a brioche bread, and you would get like a little 00:22:56.069 --> 00:22:59.430 cup of clarified butter just to pour it on top 00:22:59.430 --> 00:23:04.609 of your lobster. That's very nice. Life is just 00:23:04.609 --> 00:23:08.569 better with a little bit of liquid butter to 00:23:08.569 --> 00:23:11.269 put on top of your shellfish. Ain't that the 00:23:11.269 --> 00:23:14.650 truth, brother. Yeah, super nice. Super, super 00:23:14.650 --> 00:23:19.269 nice. When you make a hollandaise, do you clarify 00:23:19.269 --> 00:23:23.200 your butter? I haven't done a Hollandaise in 00:23:23.200 --> 00:23:26.160 quite a while. I remember I used to do it until 00:23:26.160 --> 00:23:30.359 someone told me, you don't need to clarify it. 00:23:30.440 --> 00:23:33.740 And then I stopped doing it. Yeah, that was kind 00:23:33.740 --> 00:23:38.180 of my process. Yeah, I actually do the same. 00:23:38.220 --> 00:23:40.680 I melt it, of course. I let it come up one time, 00:23:40.740 --> 00:23:44.279 but I don't clarify it. I don't strain it. I 00:23:44.279 --> 00:23:49.000 think that the dairy solids in butter are super, 00:23:49.099 --> 00:23:51.829 super delicious, right? And I always emulsify 00:23:51.829 --> 00:23:55.470 them into my hollandaise also because I don't 00:23:55.470 --> 00:23:57.230 see the point of wasting them because that's 00:23:57.230 --> 00:23:59.190 like a lot of the butter flavor is coming from 00:23:59.190 --> 00:24:01.390 there. And at the end of the day, you know, if 00:24:01.390 --> 00:24:03.069 you're making brown butter, beurre noisette, 00:24:03.210 --> 00:24:06.289 that's really what gives you the flavor. It's 00:24:06.289 --> 00:24:11.349 that you're cooking these solids until they separate 00:24:11.349 --> 00:24:15.349 and start to brown. That is really the only thing 00:24:15.349 --> 00:24:16.829 that is giving you the brown butter flavor.