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Hi everyone.

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Welcome to potluck food talks.

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I'm Eric and I'm here with my man, Gil Walter, and we're going to talk about pursuit of excellence

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and cooking and the culinary worlds.

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Eric, what's the first thing you think about when you hear that expression?

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I'm, I don't know.

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I think it is the, the really kind of that sentiment that I feel is very unique to our

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profession.

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And it's definitely one of the biggest reasons why I started cooking in the first place.

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I wanted to, like I've spoken to Xander about it before.

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I wanted to do something where I could strive to be a little bit better every day.

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And yeah, and I spent most of my career doing that sometimes in a very unhealthy way.

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And sometimes in a really, really fulfilling way.

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Actually, I think it's one of the things that makes this job what it is and why people want

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to do it.

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Is this constant delving into what you're doing.

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For me it comes to mind.

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Well, there, there is this book from Charlie Trotter is called lessons in excellence, which

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I recommend very much.

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He has lessons in excellence, lessons in service and lessons in wine service.

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The last one I didn't read, but I don't remember in which one of them he says that he looks

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for people that have a religious approach to work.

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Okay.

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And, and that also brings to me when I listened to the episode where Xander interviews you

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and you're telling about how you started cooking and you said that Buddhism and Zen philosophy

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really caught your attention and you saw something about it and cooking because everything was

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so like volatile that you cook something and then it's gone.

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And I don't know.

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I think like all of these things are like, like puzzle pieces of a larger picture when

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we talk about this.

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Yeah, no, absolutely.

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And I think it's almost like when you meet people that have the same passion and that

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see the same beauty in what you're doing.

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It's almost like you meet a brother from another mother, you know, it's almost like you, you

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meet somebody from like a secret cult because there's people that cook and that's totally

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fine.

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You know, I'm cooking for feeding people is a very noble pursuit, but you know, you have

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that in every, in everything, you know, you have people who make music and they can play

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an instrument pretty well and then you have people that seal it, you know, that really

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seal it with their whole being.

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And it's just a little bit different.

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And when you come across people like that, it's very inspiring.

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Yeah.

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And I guess it has also to do when, when you see something properly executed, you know,

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it's like an aesthetic experience, right?

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You enjoy the beauty of it.

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It's like, yeah, nice, you know, like, you know, and if it's not, it's that opposite

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like fucking bullshit.

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I hate this shit.

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You know, I don't want to see this like this.

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And that's why chefs are such maniacs because you get this emotional contrast of beauty

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and ugliness in your work.

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If something is not beautiful, then it's ugly and you don't want it to be ugly.

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Yeah, totally.

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No, absolutely.

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Absolutely right.

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It just reminds me of a conversation I had with somebody that I worked with not too long

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ago that I was trying to explain to how it feels like if you have a really bad service.

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And she was kind of like, well, you know, but like bad days happen and like you have

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to be able to go home and switch off.

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And I was like, no, you don't understand.

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Like, of course, like you're right.

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But the feeling that I have when, when a service goes bad and you send things out that you

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don't feel all right, it crushes me.

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It really, really crushes me.

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It's like, like, like if you're a surgeon and somebody died in your operation table,

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you know, like it's like that you, you, you, you have your shoulders for at least a few

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days.

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That's an intense comparison, man.

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But you're right.

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It does feel like that.

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And I guess that's just, that's, that's just what comes with being really passionate about

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something.

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I don't know, for me, it was never about sort of like, you know, this feeling of this feeling

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of failure that you have.

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It was never about anything else but me, you know, like I feel like I let myself down and

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I, I felt like where did all my time and effort go?

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If it resulted in this all day long, I'm trying to chase, I'm trying to chase the dragon and

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try to, you know, make my deadline and, and then I get there and it gets fucked up.

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And then, right, other people are involved also, right?

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Sometimes you fuck up, sometimes other people fuck up and then all your hard work results

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in something that's mediocre because of other people, which then becomes a really difficult

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situation.

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Also, how do you deal with that?

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Right?

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Because it's one thing if you shift the party and you work with other people, it can be

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like, oh fuck, you know.

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On my side, the social, the fish was perfect, the sauce was perfect, blah, blah, blah.

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But the ultimately fucked up the garnish.

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So fuck that guy, right?

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But if you're, you know, a sous chef or a head chef, it's your responsibility to keep

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everybody together.

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So if somebody fucks up, of course it's, you know, their problem, but also what could you

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have done to improve that?

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It's a, it's a very complex scenario.

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I also think about repetition, you know, like if you, if you think about the person of excellence,

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repetition is like an absolute concept that is binded to it, you know?

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Yeah.

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Because doing the same thing every day and enjoying the beauty of it every time and not

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only every day, but many times a day, you know, like every time, like a very beautiful

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plate.

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So I think I am working in restaurants for a while, but I remember resetting your mind,

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you know, like every time you have the same plate again and you need to start doing the

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same thing again, learning how to look at it as if you were doing it for the first time

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and learning how to cook or plate as if it was for your most beloved one person.

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Like having that kind of resetting and having a blank mind when you're doing this kind of

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things.

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It was also key for me to keep that mood, you know, like ongoing.

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I think what you said there is such a beautiful like way of thinking about it.

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It's like, you know, seeing the beauty in the stuff every day and multiple times a day.

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If you manage to do that, and if you practice that, because it's a practice, right?

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Unless you're like a very, you know, special sort of person, then you have to practice

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that.

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You have to get yourself into that mode.

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And then you can take that even further where you try to see the beauty in all the things

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that you're doing.

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If it's peeling a mushroom, you know, if it's, you know, peeling the apple, if it's making

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a potato puree, if, you know, it's cleaning the fish, you know, like simple things, picking

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herbs, you can step back and enjoy the beauty and the enjoyment of what you're doing.

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And also in trying to do it excellently in every single thing that you're doing.

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And that is where I feel like the religious aspect comes in.

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If you approach it religiously, because that's, you know, like what I'm saying is not easily

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done, I would say, but if you manage to do that, how incredibly fulfilling that must

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be, you know, and sometimes, sometimes we manage to do that.

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And I 100% believe that the end result of what we're doing, of the work that we're

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doing, is then impacted in such a positive way.

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And that's obviously, we're all human and we can't always do this because we have bad

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days and somebody, some crackhead shouted at us on the train on our way to work.

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And you know, I don't know.

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I think it's also key like to have like a proper environment to develop this talent

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and this approach to cooking is that the whole kitchen has to be designed for something like

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that.

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You know, if you're like you're saying peeling some baby carrots really carefully, and then

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I don't know, like you have a ticket with a room service and the owner of the restaurant

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comes in and asks you to do something that has nothing to do with your job.

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And then the whole thing becomes a mess.

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It's just counterproductive for everything, you know, like not just for your mental health,

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but also for the quality of the restaurant, also for the whole team working as an engine,

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like for many, many things.

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I think that that's something that has to be taken into consideration from the very

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beginning, from the very foundational conceptualization of a place.

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That's very, very true.

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I think so many people forget that.

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So many people who run restaurants and operate restaurants, not going to say any names, they

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forget that and they don't understand that.

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And they think like, hey, we can just, it's fine, right?

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Like it's okay.

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You can just do this quick room service ticket.

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And it's like, yeah, yeah, sure.

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I can.

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And yeah, it's okay.

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We just do this.

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It's okay.

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We just do that.

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It's okay.

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We can do that.

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If you just do it one hour earlier, it's like, yeah, what's an hour?

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What's an hour?

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An hour is a lot, you know?

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And things need to, we need to set things into motion.

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We really need to think about what are the steps we want?

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Do we want more or do we want better?

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Yeah.

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And also, do you want to have like a super large rotation of staff?

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People coming and leaving every three months or do you want people to stay for years working

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for you?

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I say like, if you have that as a goal from the very beginning, then you need to think

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differently of all of these things where we're just saying, you know, like if you want people

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to stay for a few years working with you.

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Absolutely.

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One person that I think of when it comes to pursuit of excellence is somebody that I've

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not worked with.

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But I've been following him for a long time and he's recently got his third mission in

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star as we talked about him earlier, Daniel Calvert from Cezanne in Tokyo.

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That for me is really like, I've been following this guy since he was in Hong Kong.

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He had one star at a restaurant called Bellon where he was doing like fairly classic French

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cooking with, you know, like a lot of like local influence, like he was making like drunk

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and chicken and stuff like that.

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And he then moved on to Tokyo, opened Cezanne straight away, got two mission in stars and

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now he's got his third one.

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And that is really a kitchen where, you know, like per se and you know, the French laundry

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and Cezanne and Benue, all these kitchens where you kind of look at the way they work.

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11 Madison Park and you sort of like, yeah, they're really in pursuit of excellence there.

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They have a culture.

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They have a religious approach.

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They show up every day and they just do their thing.

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And like a knife on a sharpening stone, it gets refined, refined, refined, refined until

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it's laser sharp.

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I can think of this book from Elias Fromm called The Art of Loving.

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He was like a psychologist from the 60s, like German Jewish American.

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And I remember I read that book when I was a teenager and I could summarize it and like,

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well, the way he approaches the concept of love is that he says that love is something

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is a practice and something that you have to train and to do proactively towards things.

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It could be a person, it could be cooking, you know, it could be anything.

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And he says it has like four elements.

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And if you apply those four elements into something, then you are basically loving it

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and that thing will somehow reward you for it.

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Okay.

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And these things are care, knowledge, respect, and responsibility.

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Like the combination of those four.

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If you apply this to learning how to cook better or cooking better, like executing a

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specific dish or I don't know, running a restaurant or serving a table, then that thing will reward

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you like, you know.

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That's really beautiful, man.

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And I can totally relate to that.

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I can absolutely relate to that.

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I really love the fact like loving is something that you have to do proactively.

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I think that's super true.

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And that's kind of how you should approach cooking also, you know, proactively and proactively

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also looking for the beauty in it and loving it.

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I've been watching this show that's called La Grande Mezzo Tokyo.

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It's on Netflix also.

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And that is also a show that is about the pursuit of excellence in a really beautiful

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way.

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Have you seen it?

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No, I haven't seen cook shows lately, but I've heard like this one.

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And there is also like a Korean show also on Netflix.

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I've heard very good comments about it.

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Yeah, they're both really good culinary wars, I think you mean.

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They're both really, really good.

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They're both very different.

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So this La Grande Mezzo Tokyo, it's like a Japanese telenovela.

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And just to kind of break the story down, it's about a Japanese chef in Paris who has

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two mission stars and he gets disgraced.

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So he basically poisons the customer.

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Nobody wants to hire him.

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Jump to three years later.

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He's like basically living on the streets and he meets this like middle aged woman who

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takes him back to Tokyo and wants to open a restaurant with him.

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He's a very difficult character.

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And so they open this restaurant and they want to get three mission stars.

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So I started watching the show and I thought it was going to be like very lighthearted.

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And then the more I watched the show, the more I got hooked.

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And the more you saw about the cooking, the more I realized that whoever was advising

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them on the food had a really intricate and deep understanding of cooking.

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And I watched the whole show.

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It's only like 11 episodes.

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And I was like, man, the show is so fucking good, especially in the end.

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It gets really good, especially like cooking wise.

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There's dishes in there where you're like, man, that's so smart, you know.

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And then after I watched it, I started watching it again because I wanted to watch it second

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time and I made a little bit of research and I realized that the two main restaurants in

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the show, one is like very modern Japanese and the other one is like very kind of old

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schooly modern French with Japanese ingredients.

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The French restaurant, it was all the dishes that they serve.

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For most of them, the dishes from quintessence in Tokyo.

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Okay.

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Yeah.

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Like if you say that the dishes are clever, there is probably like a good consultant behind

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it.

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100%.

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I mean, quintessence in Tokyo is, you know, arguably the most infamous famous three mission

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star Japanese French restaurant in Japan.

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And there are such sort of like really like finely tuned dishes in there with like little

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bit simple, but they have these twists and these techniques where you're like, oh my

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God, if I think about it, it's so smart.

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And yeah, that is also a really beautiful show where they, you know, in the previous

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episodes we talked about the 10 commandments from the Vel Poussin, the sort of like, yeah,

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thou shalt not be, what was it, systematically modernist.

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Right.

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And they do exactly that.

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They sort of, they stay away from technique and they really delve into the experience

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that the people have when eating the food.

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And I thought it was a really, really beautiful showcase of the pursuit of excellence.

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I was looking, you just mentioned this is grace chef that poisoned someone.

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Did you read the news?

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Like this happened?

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I think just a few days ago or last week, the latest where some, there was like an infection

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in McDonald's in the States and someone died.

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And also like also in Victoria here in Spain.

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Well, that was, was for Collie, you know, this infection that happens with meat sometimes.

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Yeah.

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Yeah.

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And here in Victoria is, and I was reading this article that they published at El País,

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like a local newspaper talking about why, why it's, is it risky to eat medium rare burgers?

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You know, because if you eat like a steak, the, these bacterias, they're on the surface

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and they get immediately killed when, when you grill them.

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Yep.

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But of course, if you grind the meat, then you mix the whole thing and the bacterias

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will be inside.

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And if you keep the draw, they might survive.

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And the risk of, of getting poisoned by medium rare burgers is 30 times higher than if they're

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not.

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That's crazy.

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And I love eating raw burgers.

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You know, like,

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Me too.

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I like both actually.

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I like the medium raw burger.

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I like the smash burger, you know?

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Yeah.

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I mean, like what people forget with minced meat is that the surface area of the meat

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becomes like times a million, you know, because you cut it up and it's like, you have small

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particles of meat that all have a surface area, you know, it's not like closed.

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So the bacteria can spread on the surface of this meat.

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And it's, it's really, really intense.

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I mean, what's a good alternative?

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Steak sandwich?

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I guess a smash burger is a good alternative or sando sandwiches.

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Sando sandwiches.

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You know, I actually read an article just a few days ago that was saying that actually

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it makes sense to not serve burgers medium rare because, and the title of the article

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was sort of like, a burger is so juicy, you have to cook it beyond medium so that all

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the like moisture gets trapped, right?

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Outside of the burger, which I guess makes sense, but a medium rare burger is just very,

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very delicious.

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I had a very good burger yesterday and this place in Barcelona called Visio.

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It's like a burger place that is becoming trendy.

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And it's funny, it was a cheeseburger with truffle sauce and the truffle sauce was nice.

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But it's funny this place because it's all like, like a sexualized place, you know, like

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with red lights, it's called Visio.

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Then when you walk in, there is like this sign that says, you're going to get your thing,

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you know, like, and then when you're reading that, like the descriptions of the, like in

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the recipe and I know like in the receipt, in the ticket, it says like, this burger is

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like a satisfied, butter is not included.

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It's like that, you know, like we did sex messages around everywhere.

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You know, like it was very funny.

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That's really funny.

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That's it for this week's episode of potluck food talks.

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If you like what we're doing, make sure to subscribe to the podcast so you never miss

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an episode.

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You can also find us on Instagram and Tik Tok as potluck food talks.

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The show airs every Monday.

