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Hi everyone, welcome to Potluck Food Talks. My name is Eric. I'm here with Phil W. Walter.

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And we're going to talk about, I don't know, what are we going to talk about?

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We just, we just catch up. We haven't talked to each other in like a month, which is very

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strange. I feel like you're like my strange brother that I haven't, that has been ripped

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away from me and I haven't seen for a couple of years.

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Yeah, like at least a couple of weeks, maybe even more than a month or six weeks, something

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like that. How's it been, man? Have you cooked anything exciting lately?

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I mean, yeah, you know, I mean, like a couple of things. I mean, obviously, you know, as

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I work in a restaurant, you know, kind of trying to push the, the development further.

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Obviously our package at diet. So we had to find some creative alternatives to switch

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our dessert menu around from one day to a to the next, because our management has failed

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to provide me with replacement package at.

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But I saw you had like a package at dessert, right? Like there was some ice cream thing

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you were serving or posting like a tartlet.

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So I mean, we like, we, because we're actually like a little bit low budget here with the

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kitchen equipment that we have, we had a package at which is not low budget. I mean, it's an

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expensive piece of equipment, but we used it for all sorbets and all ice creams, you

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know, which is, you know, okay, like ice cream, proper ice cream machine is better,

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of course. But I mean, you can also make stuff in a package at which is totally signed. And

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then you know, in a way, it's also kind of convenient, you know, for people who don't

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know what a package is, basically, it's like a high energy mixer. It's got like a rotating

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blade. You arm it with a sort of metal cup that has like 750 milliliters of like frozen

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liquid in it. And the blade kind of turns at a very high speed and then like goes up

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and down in the cup. And so it blitzes this frozen mass really, really finely. You can

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make ice cream, you can make sorbets, you know, whatever. And I had this thing, I was

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like testing out a recipe for a citrus tart. So like a kind of like a filling for imagine

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a lemon meringue tart, I wanted to do it with like mixed citrus fruit, put some Yuzu in

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there, maybe some grapefruit. And I got past this recipe. It's really, really nice. A

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super cool recipe for a citrus tart filling where like when I read the recipe, I was like,

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what the fuck is this? Like, this is going to work. It sounds so strange. But basically

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you take the citrus juice, whatever you want, can be lemon, can be lime, anything, you put

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it in a pot together with butter and sugar, you bring it to and the zest from the citrus,

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right? And in a separate bowl, you add whole eggs and more sugar and you whisk it until

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it's a little bit frothy. It doesn't have to be white or stiff or anything, just a little

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bit. So you boil the juice with the butter, bring it to a real boil. And then you pour

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in the egg with the sugar right into the mixture, stir it a little bit, bring it up to a boil

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again. And then you blitz it with a bar mix. And once you've mixed it for like a minute

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and it's really fine and incorporated, you fill it into the tart shells and it sets into

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a perfect custard. Okay. That's so super crazy. Yeah, when I read this recipe, I was

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like, yeah, I was like, what the fuck? First of all, you boil the citrus juice. And I was

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like, well, is it going to lose its freshness? Is it going to use its thing? No, not really.

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But the most weird thing about the recipe was like, you pour the egg in and you boil the

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egg. And I was like, what the fuck? Like it's going to taste like scrambled eggs, no? Yeah.

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But no, actually, it doesn't, you know, it just, it's to do with the with the citrus,

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the citric acid and the amount of sugar that for some reason, this mixture just kind of

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stays the same, you know, like it doesn't actually coagulate like it would with like

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a normal egg mixture. And yeah, super cool. Like it's a super, super clean recipe. Nice,

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nice. But anyway, what I was like, what I was saying is that like, I tried this out and

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it was really good. It was like perfect texture, super nice and custody. But then I had like

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loads left over. And I was like, well, fuck, what am I going to do with all this like citrus

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custard? So I took some of it, I put it in a package, a container, I froze it. And then

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I spun it through a pocket jet. And what came out was this weird ice cream that was like

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in like a texture in between like an ice cream and a pudding. There was like a frozen citrus

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tart custard. Okay, sounds amazing. Yeah. And so we did this like thing where we made

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instead of like just a classic citrus tart with the set custard, we made these like fine

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tart shells, and then added some like citrus jam, compote preserve on the bottom, and then

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added like a big dollop of this like frozen custard, and kind of spread it really cleanly

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into this tart shell and then plate is different things on it. I mean, we did like a little

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bit of apricot schnapps and like woodruff oil. And then we covered it in lime zest.

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And most importantly, the flowers and leaves of holy basil, which is like a very floral

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basil. And it gives like this combination of this like really beautiful basil and the

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citrus acidity is really, really nice. I was in Barcelona just last weekend. And I went

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to at least four or five ice cream shops. And I went to Albert Adria's new, I think

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it's called Gelato collection. Yeah, that's exactly how it's called is in one of the ramblas.

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That one was good. It was really nice. I mean, it's Albert Adria, but like it then felt like

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super outstanding, you know, like I had a green curry ice cream, it was super nice.

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Oh, nice. Yeah, then he had like a piña colada one. I don't know, like the fruit ones were

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super nice. I had one way, which is a classic from Pierre Hermé, which is raspberries, leechy

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and roses, super nice. And but that was not my favorite ice cream shop. It's one called

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Padalello. That one was so next level, man. Everything I had there was super nice. Like

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I had like an anchovy ice cream. Oh, wow. Beetroot, another one with stracciatella, another

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one with dulce de leche and everything was over the top, man. Amazing. How was the anchovy

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ice cream? Was it sweet or savory? Savory, savory. Wow. I mean, I was going for something

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really experimental. And actually they asked me like, do you want to try this first before

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we serve it? So they gave me like a little spoon. So I tried and I said, sure, let's

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have it. It was nice. That's super cool. Yeah. And then you were talking about this whole

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butter experience with the lemon tartlet and everything I did. Olvera's pineapple butter.

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Man, that shit is so addictive. How you have to explain to me, I don't know how you make

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it. Yeah, you know, like he has like this pastor taco, but it's a fish pastor. I learned

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this from my friend, Luis Herrera, who worked at Cosme in New York and he's serving something

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quite similar at his restaurant in Senada in Brooklyn. Yeah. So basically it's a grilled

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fish that is brushed with a pastora dobo and grilled. And it's served like with just

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like a canel of pineapple butter. And it's like a super simple recipe. Basically you

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slice pineapple and you cook it in butter until it's like nice and roasted, like at low temperature

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for at least two hours, right? And then you blitz it with cold butter, same as you would

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do like a lemon butter or any kind of butter, you know, like something like 2080, 20 pineapple

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80 butter. So you have this super rich, delicious pineapple butter, man. I did like actually

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I did this fish pastor tacos with this butter, but then you can use it for whatever for crepes

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for everything and for kimchi toasts, whatever. It's incredible. It's a particular world.

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And that sounds really good. I have to try that. That sounds amazing. Try it. Try it.

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It's super easy. And you, you, it's one of the best things in the world. I tried this

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at his restaurant and I asked him for the recipe because I needed to cook it. You know,

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I knew it was something super simple. I made something the other day where I'm kind of

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like now that we're talking about condiments and I like rediscovered a recipe that I'm

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kind of like, man, it's so simple, but it's just such a nice recipe. And I was kind of

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teaching the guys in my kitchen how to make it because I was like, okay, look, I'm going

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to show you this and like, I just want to have it on plus. So I'm just going to show

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you also, we can just like, if I say, Hey, let's make some, some lemon confit, you know,

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what we were talking about. And it's a recipe from Hoffman. Like, I don't know if you remember

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this like lemon jam from Hoffman. No. So it's actually super simple. You take lemons,

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you peel the skin with a peeler, right? Not with a knife. Depending on your peeler. Ideally,

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you use a peeler that just peels off enough so you don't get the white. If you get a little

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bit of white on the skin, you have to take it over the knife additionally. Then you

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take the fruit and you cut off the pulp so that you get the fillets. And then out of

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the rest of the carcass, you squeeze out the juice. So you have basically the lemon in

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three sections, you have skin, which you cut into really, really fine julienne. And like

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as long and as thin as possible. Then you have the fillets, which is the fruit meat

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without any of the connective tissue. And then you have the juice. And then you make

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a very simple jam out of it. But like the steps are really nice. So first you take a

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saucepan, you add a thin layer of sugar, and you heat it up until you get a very light

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golden caramel, very, very light. Then you add your lemon skin julienne, you sweat those

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out in the sugar. Then you add a splash of dry white wine, like a reaseling or something

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like that. Ah, yeah, I did something really, really similar. I was going to tell you that

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I knew something similar with wine. So you kind of telling me exactly the same thing

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I was thinking about. Okay, go on. Yeah. Yeah. And then you like deglaze it with the wine.

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And then you add the fillets and most of the juice, but you keep a little bit of fresh

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juice back. And then you add some more sugar. And then you cook it down until it's like,

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you know, a syrupy consistency, when like medium heat, the fillets, they're going to

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half this integrate and give this whole syrup like a nice body, the skin is going to cook

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through and candy. And then at the very end, when you get the right consistency, you check

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the flavor for like a sweet, sour balance. And you add the rest of the juice to get that

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little bit of fresh citrus kick. And it's like, it's not super sweet. It's very fresh

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lemon is not bitter at all. And you have these beautiful curly, like once it cools

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down, these beautiful early citrus julienne. And it's like a super nice condiment for

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obviously desserts, you can put it on ice cream or whatever, or like, you know, garnish

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it with it, but also for like fish, you know, you can take that, mix it with a little bit

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of good quality olive oil, maybe some toasted wild fennel seeds, you know, brush it over

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some steamed fish, you know, super super nice. That sounds super nice, man. Yeah, I also

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did a super cool kimchi. Like I found this article on New York Times that features five

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kimchi master ladies from Korea, like with completely different approaches and also completely

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different styles of kimchi. One is like a super CEO of a big kimchi company. The other one

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is like a non doing kimchi at her, you know, like this kind of profiles are like completely

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diverse. And I was interested in because, you know, I would always be like super lazy.

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I usually have kimchi at home, but I would buy, you know, like pre made base, mix it

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with, you know, the cabbage, put it in the fridge and that's it, you know, like to have

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something similar. But I felt like, okay, I feel like I want to do like like the whole

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process, right? So I was interested in bike kimchi that is called that is like a white

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kimchi. And they use you you've you know, that is kind of like a Chinese date. Yeah,

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I've never used them before. Yeah. And also this kimchi master was called a Kang Song

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Su. And yeah, she also used something that reminded me of pine nuts. So I was like, okay,

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this, this seems super interesting to me. And then, you know, carrots and fish sauce

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and doing like a base with, you know, with some starch, because just to feed the bacteria

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and also to make like, like the soft thicker. And I was like, okay, I feel like I'm doing

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that. You know, as I'm going to Japan, a friend from Japan asked me to, to get him

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for some garum from Cofradilla, which is the Fisherman Guilds restaurant here in San

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Sebastian, which is run by the way by Marcell, who used to be he was the first chef, the

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cuisine at Mugarets back in 99. And then he was like the longtime restaurant manager,

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he like operations manager at Mugarets for a long while. And then he also was like the

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operations manager, operations director at basketball in our center. Yeah. And now he's

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running that place. So every time I go there, you know, it's like visiting an old teacher

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and he's at the bar and me, like, I was thinking about introducing that place to my pinch of

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tours. So I tried all the pinchos, this place does everything only with fish, not not crustaceans

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or mollusks, only fish like vertebrated things. Yeah. And so like I tried everything in the

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San La Liga was amazing. The the fried merlosa similar to the one we had a tambourine, you

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know, this one that is coated like in an egg wash. So good. The one they do there is

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super nice, super nice. I think that was my top pinch of the place. Wow. And then I had

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like a bottle of this nice anchovy garum that they do. And that that was my king ingredient

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for my kimchi. So I did like this. Basically, you I've never done it like that way. Just

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you put the so you cut your cabbage, and you put like an assault brine and for a while.

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And then you prepare prepare your marinade with the garum. And I added also some pineapple

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left over I had from this pineapple butter. I also had like this. I didn't have this Chinese

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pine nuts or this Chinese dates, these jujuts. So I got normal dates and pistachios just to

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make something, you know, like different and that made sense to me and that I found that

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to be delicious. So I prepared this whole marinade. I also use my habanero anchovy hot sauce

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that I had that makes perfectly sense for you because it's super aromatic and it also

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has like anchovies. And I left that this kimchi marinating like for five days outside. It's

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really hot these days. And man, it became really nice on point of sauce, super sour

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and like natural lactic acid sourness, not so spicy, because it was also for a present

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for a friend that doesn't need that spicy. So I did I kept my spiciness level low. But

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what I love the most is that it's super, you know, like I eat it every day, I put it on

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every sandwich I do on every toast and everything. And I still have a lot. So that was like a

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super thing to like a super fun thing to cook.

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I love that. Yeah, that sounds super, super nice. I mean, my last kimchi, like experiment

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at home, went super wrong. And it just started holding like crazy, which actually never happened

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to me. Like I've always kind of like made kimchi and it's always worked really, really

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well. I usually do it with like I make like a puree out of pineapple and onion and garlic

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and stuff. And I like blitz that and make the marinade out of that. And I put some apple

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in also. And it's always worked perfectly. But like this time, I don't know, just went

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completely wrong. I've actually like that you were talking about pistachios. I am.

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I did a thing recently, which was really nice. I was kind of like, I'm kind of going to sort

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of try out like work out a little bit further, because I was kind of thinking of these like

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Mexican sauces like pepean and stuff like that, which are super, super tasty. When I

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was in Mexico, I like, you know, you have these things that called in caca, with dardo

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or pepean, you know, made out of like pumpkin seeds and stuff like that. And I kind of remember

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that the other day, and I want to bring it into like a different context. And so I made

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the sauce out of like roasted pistachios and then cooked down and caramelized sort of like

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onions with garlic and like spices, you know, like a little bit of cumin and stuff like

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that and peppercorn. And then I added a little bit of like really fatty coconut cream. And

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let that cook down and reduce a little bit with the toasted nuts and then blitzed it.

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And it was like a really smooth, saucy, sort of like pistachio, coconut, pepean cream.

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And it was really like a really interesting flavor. You know, I'm kind of thinking of

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using that for like a meat or a fish dish, you know, and but I still have to work on

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the shirt. That's what I love about cooking, you know, it's kind of like when you take

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an experience or memory and you kind of bring it into context with like the things that

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you have. And something new gets created. And I love, especially love when you have

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like, you create things that you can put in your toolbox, you know, that you have like,

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you have this like condiment that you can then like draw on and be sort of like, okay,

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I'm gonna add it. Yeah, I'm gonna add it. Yeah, absolutely. I don't know why you remind

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me of I also recently did it because you use the pumpkin seeds. I recently just for myself

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like a super simple salad. I love using melon as a savory ingredient, you know, treating

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it like a tomato. And then the results, it's interesting because it's more actually like

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a cucumber. It's kind of like the same family than a cucumber, like a melon. But once you

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add salt to it, it reminds me of a super sweet tomato, like that experience of having something

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super sweet and adding salt to it. Yeah. And have you ever fermented melons? Because that's

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also crazy. If you try to do like fermented melon or like melon vinegar or this kind

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of things, it tastes like cucumber. And it's like, Oh, wow, okay, like I've never fermented

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melon. I've made like melon vinegar with like champagne vinegar and super super tasty.

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But like, yeah, I mean, for me, melon is like, I actually have this like really crazy.

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How would you call it like this connection in my mind of like melon and raw pumpkin.

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So I remember one point because I was like juicing pumpkin, and I was tasting the juice

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and it was like a very nice ripe pumpkin, you know, like when you take a good pumpkin

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and you let it sit in a cellar for like a month or so and like it loses a little bit

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of its water and the flavor gets concentrated. And then you juice it and it's like super

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concentrated. I was tasting the juice. I was like, man, this tastes like really ripe

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handsome. Like melon, you know, super, super nice. I was like, I would be really nice to

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like make sorbet out of this, you know, and just because it has this like real floral

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sweetness. It's amazing. Yeah. Have you eaten in some interesting places these weeks? Well,

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I was actually in Tenerife for a week. And I mean, there, mainly I went to I had some

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really amazing meals in sort of small fishing villages, you know, the sort of place where

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they don't do anything like ground breaking, but like you go there, you choose the fish,

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you tell them how you want it, whether you want it grilled at a plancha or whatever,

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you know, and actually there I ate something that I ate for the first time, which doesn't

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happen so often. So these guys like at the at the counter, they had this like plastic

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crate with cut up fish and it was big chunks of moray eels, which are these like super

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scary looking big sea creatures, right? They're like, they look like eels, obviously, you

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know, they're the, you know, the pets from the villain in Ariel. Okay, you know what

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I mean? And I had that. And these guys never sort of like you would order like a portion

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of them and they would just simply fry them, just deep fry them really crispy salt. That's

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it. And the thing with them is they have loads of little pin bones. So you have to kind of

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choose where you eat, but you take it with your hands. And you just like eat it off the

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bone. And because of the like, it has this like a really beautiful, flaky white slush,

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almost like a cod. And it has a lot of like fat and collagen. So the skin and the outside

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becomes super super crispy, almost like the crispy pieces like the crispy bits of a chicken

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wing. Super super tasty. I was like, wow, what the fuck? And it's a product that I've never

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eaten before. You don't find anywhere. I was kind of thinking of like trying to get some

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for here, you know, because like, but I don't know my supply is going to probably going

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to hate me.

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I think spaniards, spaniards, maybe also Italians, maybe also Portuguese are the kings of of

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the fish frying. It's incredible. Like the way it's done around here, especially in the

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south.

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Absolutely. So good, you know, absolutely. There was this one fish place that we used

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to go to. And this guy used to like, it was also kind of the same similar thing. And he

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used to just boil his fish, you know, he has a big pot of like really salty water. And

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also like, like langoustines and stuff like that, like little, little shrimp used to like

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just literally just throw them into boiling water for like a certain amount of time, fish

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them out, put them on a plate and send it out. When I saw that the first time I was still

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in the very beginning of my cooking career. And I went there with my parents, my grandparents,

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and I saw that I was like, what the fuck, you know, this seemed really strange, taking

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a whole fish, hopping it into boiling water, taking it out again, putting it on a plate

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and sending it out. I was like, what the fuck man? Okay. But like, it was the most perfectly

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cooked fish, like some of the most perfect seafood I've ever had in my life. It was so

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good. And I think if I tried to recreate that, I would probably make a really fucking disgusting

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boiled fish.

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Yeah, the things you need to have the touch of knowing exactly what you're doing and

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what you're doing. You remind me of, I think the name is Rafa's, which is like a legendary

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place that the guys from El Buyi would go there to grab inspiration. It's in the same

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year. You know, like, I think Anthony Burain also goes there and Jose Andres and some of

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the episodes. But this guy only does seafood and very easily cooked like plancha or these

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kind of things. For example, for the mussels, he would take like a strainer. He would fill

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the strainer with the mussels or clams or these kind of things. And he would pour boiling

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water through the strainer. And that's it. That's the way he would cook it. Just letting

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water go through the clams until they open. And that was it.

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Wow. Never seen that before. Yeah. Nice, no?

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That's a really cool idea. I have to try that. Yeah. Yeah.

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It's like, really, this is some of the coolest cooking for me. It's just like mega minimalistic

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cooking. Absolutely.

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But it's kind of like, and yeah, it's also like, you know, if you fuck up, you fuck up

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by a couple of seconds, you fucked up big time, where you can basically throw it in

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the bin. Yeah.

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Yeah. I also want to do a few good places. I had like a super nice also fried seafood

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at the Akumanka, which is Gastonakurios, one of Gastonakurios restaurant in Barcelona,

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so it's Peruvian. So I had like a super nice Nikkei ceviche. I love that shit, man. Like,

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I can't eat enough of that.

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It's so good. Like having a ceviche with this Japanese lechera tigre. Wow. You know, like

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there's nothing that can go wrong with that. Yeah.

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And then, you know, causa. Yeah. So they did like this specific causa with fried squids

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and also like the salad was with a salad of Centoya of King Crab.

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Nice. And the super crispy pieces of fish with the salad of King Crab. It was just

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and the smashed potato.

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Yeah. And the Akia Maria just over the top. Super nice.

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Honestly, I think Nikkei is one of the most underrated cuisines, you know, and like Peruvian,

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like the mix of Peruvian and Japanese is such a cool mix of technique and of ingredients,

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you know, like the Achis of Peru and obviously, I mean, we don't have to trouble our Japanese

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technique. But like, ah, man, this is like you say, you know, these like the different

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styles of ceviche also.

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They're so versatile, you know, and there's so much, there's so much technique involved

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if you do it like in the high level, so that all the balance is right.

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Yeah. Like this place, they had like the menu had a section of ceviches. So they had like

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eight different ceviches, then they had like eight different causes and eight different

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walks, something like that. And that was the menu. Then you had like snacks and different

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things. We also had like some croquettes of agi, you know, like this, agide de gallina,

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which is like this chicken stew made like with this yellow pepper chili. It's super

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nice.

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I love agile gallina. Super tasty. I used to make and Dubai used to make agile gallina

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croquettes.

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That's what we had. Exactly.

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Oh, really? Yeah. That's exactly what we had.

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Yeah. Just make like a big mix, picking it, you know, like loads of agia mario.

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And then when I was in Madrid, I really avoided to become that person, but I did. I did fall

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into the hole because they told me, Hi, you're here. We can bring you to this super nice

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basketball restaurant. And I'm not a basketball. I'm coming from the, I'm coming from the

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bus country, you know, like so like for many times I avoid this, but I did it without, you

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know, by accident kind of saw that I, I went to a concert. That's the reason I went to

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Madrid. It was like this rap battle event. And when I went out of the event, there was

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only one place open. It's called Hermanos vinagre, which means vinegar brothers. And

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this is a super nice placement. Like they specialize only like in super high quality

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pickles. They have like a, they call it on the manual, the world's most expensive

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Gilda. Oh yeah. Yeah. I saw that.

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And everything, all the pickles and all the anchovy things and all these kinds of things

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were just incredible. I also had like an escaviche, also like a fried pig's ear and everything

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super nice. I was like, okay, great. Check one. I'm having Gilda's in Madrid. Okay.

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I feel like like an idiot, but the healer was very good. I had to try it. I had to,

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you know, I couldn't avoid it. I love Gilda's anyway, but I, you know, I wanted to see the

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comparison and everything.

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And of course, of course, I, if I would have been you, I would have posted a picture on

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Instagram being saying best, best Gilda, best Gilda in the world and then the place next

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to Madrid and just see everybody freaking out.

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Exactly. Exactly. Exactly. And then the next day, like I had like a time before taking

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my, my, was it a plane or a train? I don't remember. It was a plane, I think, but I had

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like the whole day. So I, okay, let's visit some museums and everything was closed. There

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was like huge queues to most museums. So I wrote my friend Fernando, the one that tried

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to kill us in the forest hunting mushrooms. And he, he's from Madrid, you know, he's like

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a very good person to us, these kinds of things. And he told me, go to this place called Aramburu.

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I didn't knew it, but well, then he told me and the name of the chef is Pachizumarraga.

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Then I knew right away it was like a, a bus place. Aramburu is also like a bus name,

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but it was written like with, like in French. So it's probably French bus. And this is an

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incredible place. I talk to you about it, man. Super, super nice. Like it really felt like,

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I don't know, it reminded me of the baratam, like that vibe of pedolin and the, and the

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vibe, like the way the service would approach you and the way they would make you feel at

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home and this kind of things. But then the food, it was very, very fine, very fine and

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very simple, you know, like just super nice produce with, with two to three elements,

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like this kind of things. I remember like the appetizer was a mochi filled with prawns

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that you had, you had treated like in just one bite. Then I had like, what's the name

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of Navajas?

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Razor clams.

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Razor clams. Razor clams with, with a black sesame paste. Also super nice.

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Okay. Wow. Experimental though.

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Yeah. Then I had like this, these things that were like vegetables with lamb sweet bread.

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And on the bottom, it had like some kind of, I will say like a green salsa, some kind

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of like a hair ball pesto, but not a pesto, but like that kind of texture. But with

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Yeah, like a salsa, there, this sort of thing.

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Yeah. But like thick and with, I expected to have like many different herbs because

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it was very, very strong and fresh and, and but at the same time, super nice balance.

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And this guy, the, the chef, he's such a character man. He's like, you know, Hagrid

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from Harry Potter. Imagine Hagrid after an extreme makeover coming out with, with a clean

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cut and a clean beard, something like that. But like this big guy, you know, like

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Mountain man.

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Yeah. And he, he would take care partly of the dining room. Like he would go to most

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tables and his, I don't know, or if wife or business partner would take the other half

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of the dining room. But he would go every time to the past and he would try most things

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that came out of the kitchen. So he was kind of like directing the kitchen from the dining

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room and going to like controlling everything. And I know because Fernando told me that he's

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the one that designs all the dishes and everything. I also had like a black potting with Jimmy

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Churri. And when the, the partner brings me, she tells me like, yeah, and this is Jimmy

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Churri because I'm Argentine. And that's the only one that my business partner allowed

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me to have from Argentina.

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That's nice.

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I super recommended. Amazing place.

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What's it called again? Haramboorupet with H. Haramboore is written something like that.

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Oh yeah. I know. I just Googled it, but I'm doing the result I get is Harambe.

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That's it for this week's episode of Puttlock Food Talks. If you like what we're doing,

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make sure to subscribe to the podcast so you never miss an episode. You can also find us

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on Instagram and TikTok as Puttlock Food Talks. The show airs every Monday.

