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Hi everyone, welcome to Botlog Food Talks.

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Today we have a special guest.

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I'm with Yingxin Huang.

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She's a pastry chef residing in Paris.

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We met in Paris like on my last trip and it was my first lunch in Paris.

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Some friends brought me to her place and I remember it was a grill and she was doing

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some amazing food.

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It was like my first taste of Paris.

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And today we're going to talk about China and France and pastries.

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Yes.

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How are you?

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Hello Erika, I'm very fun.

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Thanks.

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We have to talk a little bit about sweets and desserts and you're Chinese and you're

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also a pastry chef.

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So what's the deal with sweets and desserts in China?

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Because I've been to Chinese restaurants and it's very different like from Europe and the

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West it's more like candy, fruits, right?

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Like this kind of thing.

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Yeah, yeah.

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Well, can you tell me about the main difference between China and Europe and sweets?

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Okay, so it's quite different.

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I can say two things different.

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So first things is like the Chinese pastry, for example, for the Pasta Nata in Portuguese,

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the puff pastry is made by butter.

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But in China, if we make puff pastry, it's usually made by the grass of pork.

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Okay, that sounds amazing.

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Yes.

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Yeah.

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So it's different.

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It's like one is from the cow and one is from the pork.

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I know for sure.

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There are like many, like many old desserts here in Europe as well that use pork fat and

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animal fat instead of butter.

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Yeah, so in China they use the pork fat to do the puff pastry.

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So what's the difference?

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It's like the puff pastry, they can give texture much like much more soft, much more crunchy.

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Also like grainy, right?

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Yeah, it's like a very soft and very...

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Like a pate brisé, something like that?

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Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.

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It's something like that.

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It's like when you eat it inside and it's like it melts.

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So it's different from the puff pastry here in Europe.

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Yeah, what you're describing reminds me of in South Spain, there are like the polvorones.

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I don't know if you know them.

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No.

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They're also made with, if I'm not wrong, with pork fat.

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So maybe it's the same...

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Yeah, it melts in your mouth and it's also like, it feels like a very fine sand, something

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like that.

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Yeah, yeah, yeah.

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You got that.

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So that's one thing that's different from the Europe pastry.

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And the second thing is, you know, that in China, a lot of dessert, Chinese dessert is

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like it's liquid.

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Yeah, I was in a Chinese restaurant in Singapore and the dessert was like a candied fruits,

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kind of in a very liquid something that you would eat with a spoon like a soup.

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Yeah, yeah.

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So the reason I think is like maybe people in Asia, we usually like something hot to

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make the cocks feel hot and warm.

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So that's one reason why we have some dishes, we are much more liquid than in Europe.

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And after that, it depends on province one more time.

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So for example, the province from the south, we have much more sunshine, so we have much

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more fruit.

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So we can do a lot of liquid dessert with the fruit.

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For example, with the mango, with the pomelo, with coconut, a lot of fruit can be used to

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do the liquid dessert in our province.

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And otherwise, some province like in the north of China, they do some liquid dessert with

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the sesame, with the almond to do like a pasta of this nut.

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So yeah, so it's a difference for the liquid dessert in China.

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Okay.

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And yeah, the other thing I wanted to ask you because I've seen in your Instagram, you

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have like hundreds of pictures of amazing pastry shops in Paris.

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It looks like you go a lot to try new sweets in the city.

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And Paris is probably one of the best cities in the world to eat desserts.

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Yes.

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Could you share, I don't know if you have like favorite places and favorite things to

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eat.

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I remember going of course to Pierre Hermes, which I think is a must.

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I had like about 15 different macarons and I also tried the ice creams and it was like

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I would definitely go back.

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It's amazing.

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Yeah, you should.

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And yes, of course after, well, so Pierre Hermes is one of my favorites in Paris.

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It's really, really so good.

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He's like the master Picasso, we call him Picasso of the pastry because he has a lot

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of good flavor and inspired a lot of people who love pastry.

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I started cooking almost 20 years ago and he was big back then already.

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I remember back then like having books of him and looking for his recipes and learning

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a lot about desserts from his books and everything.

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Yes, yes, that's it.

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And so after Pierre Hermes, I would love to recommend La Duqe.

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And it's not because it's very, you know, La Duqe is very famous because it's a big

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meisson, it's like also famous for his, for the macarons, something like this.

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But I recommended it because the pastry chef, the head pastry chef who leads the La Duqe

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meisson is a chef that I love a lot and all his creations, it's amazing.

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So that's why I recommended La Duqe.

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And the chef of La Duqe, his name is Julien Alvarez.

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So when you heard Alvarez, yes, he's a Franco-Espanol.

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And so he won the champion of the pastry, world champion pastry for Spain.

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Okay, do you have like a favorite thing to eat there?

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His lemon tart is the one thing that I love the most because in fact before I don't really

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like the lemon tart because I usually found that there is the flavor of the egg inside.

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So I don't really like that.

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But his lemon tart that changed my mind because his lemon tart is with a lot of combinations

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of flavor inside that take off the flavor of the egg white and that changed my mind of

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the lemon tart.

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Actually the one that I would always make was a recipe from Pierre Hermes and it was

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like I remember it would have like a lot of butter.

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It's like 80% butter and lemon.

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Yeah, so it's old school and new school, we can say that.

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Yeah, it was incredibly delicious.

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And yeah, so La Duqe, if you go back to Paris, you need to go to try his lemon tart.

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And the third one I would recommend is the chef from the Hits Hotel.

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So the chef is called Francois Pérez and his pastry is impressive because he's like

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doing something like the, in French we call that the tempore, that means he does the same

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pastry but it's not the real pastry, it's different from Cédric Collin.

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His pastry is, for example, one of his famous ones is the Madeleine and his Madeleine pastry

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is not just a Madeleine cake, but it's like an ultimate, it's like a pastry.

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And he does that like Madeleine form, but inside they have the cream, they have the

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mousse, they have the caramel, they have the biscuit and it's like a combination of the

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pastry.

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So it looks like a Madeleine but it's like a petit gâteau of something like that?

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Yes, yes, that's it.

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And it's really, really so good.

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And the flavor, the combination, and it's very light and very delicate.

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And it's like, wow, you're feeling you had a very good moment every time when you taste

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his pastry.

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I love when desserts are like that, when desserts are subtle, low in sugar, low in strong flavors,

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that is something really, really delicate and subtle, not like this, pam, lots of sweet

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and lots of everything, you know?

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Yeah, yes, yes.

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You mentioned Cédric Collin, he became quite a pastry celebrity.

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Famous pastry, yeah, he's very famous and especially he's very famous for his...

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Mimetics, right?

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Like the things that look like a fruit but it's something else.

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Yeah, yeah, yeah, he's very interesting too and I think he's also a very big creation

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that he's doing and he inspired a lot of people who are doing the pastry in his way.

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So yeah, I think he's also a quite big chef that inspired a lot of people.

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Yeah, I follow him on social media and it's always fun to see how he makes these things

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that look like something else.

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Yeah, amazing.

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Another one is called Yankoo, I don't know if you've ever heard of him.

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And yeah, he's also a pastry chef, he's doing quite a good pastry.

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He used to be a pastry chef in a big hotel and then he opened his shop.

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I think now maybe he has four and five, I don't remember, but anyway he has some pastry

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shop now in Paris and what he's doing, the pastry is like the pastry, simple and natural,

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that means you know that some pastry chefs love to use the color for the preparation

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but all his pastry is natural, it's like he doesn't add any color or anything addictive

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to his pastry.

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I think it's really important because nowadays we always want to eat much more healthier

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and lighter for the pastry or even for a lot of things.

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So I think the way he's doing the pastry is good for the future because everyone wants

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to eat healthier.

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Yeah, it's a big topic as well, especially a lot of pastry chefs use a lot of artificial

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flavors and sometimes you're like, oh this is really nice and then you check the ingredients

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and it has like artificial aroma of whatever and that's actually not good for flavor perception,

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like you lose the contact with the flavor, the real flavor of things in my opinion.

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Yeah, yeah, yes.

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I wanted to ask you about being Chinese and being a pastry chef in Paris, do you use your

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cultural heritage in your desserts?

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Do you add Chinese components when you create a new dessert or something?

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I'm someone with an open mind so that means I would love to try a lot of things different

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and do some combinations.

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So I already did some pastry or some plate dessert like a Franco-Chinese combination.

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That means I do a pastry with some Chinese ingredients but with the French technique.

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For example, I did a biscuit supply and I do the form, all the skill comes from the

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French skill but for the supply biscuit, for example, I put some sesame inside and I put

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some flavor that we use a lot in the Chinese dessert inside to make the supply biscuit.

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I once tried a soy sauce merengue, it was really interesting.

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Yeah, it was like a great merengue, it was actually not for a dessert, it was for a savory

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dish but it was really crazy because you would try these things and it would pop in your

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mouth and you had like this intense soy sauce flavor, it was really nice.

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Yeah, I think it's different.

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In Asia, maybe, I don't know, but I feel that people are always very open-minded to do some

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new creations, some new combinations between different cultures.

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And in Europe, maybe I can understand because people are very proud of their culture, their

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creations, so they always want to do something to keep it.

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To preserve the tradition.

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Yeah, so they are not very easy to accept to do something like mix with different cultures,

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I found.

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Yeah, and for me it was super funny in Singapore, there were like these burger places or pizza

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places and you would see the Asian twist like, burgers with, I don't know, like a Thai

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curry kitchen or something like that.

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Yes, that's it, that's the funny thing that I love a lot in Asia because you can find

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a lot of things different and funny.

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For example, last month when I had two friends who came to China to visit me and pass the

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Chinese New Year with me and then one day we passed by Domino, you know, we also have

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Domino in China and it's very funny that the Domino, they are doing a pizza like, it's

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a pizza but it's with Chinese flavour, it's like with Chinese sausage inside and with

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Chinese seafood they put the squid.

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In Asia we can do a lot of different interesting funny combinations that maybe you can't never

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find that in Europe.

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Yeah, in Europe for sure not, in America maybe.

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Yeah, America maybe because people, I think it's important to be open-minded, to have

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an open mind to do something like this because with open mind you can discover a lot of things

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and you can taste a lot of a little flavour and yeah.

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Yeah, yeah, I completely agree.

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So talking about Europe, China and this, there is this restaurant that really interests me

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in Paris called Yamcha that is like a small Chinese tea place with Yamcha which is actually

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a way of eating and drinking tea if I'm not wrong, but this is like a French chef, like

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what's the deal with this place?

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Have you been there?

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Well, actually I used to work inside for one month as a pastry chef but then I left because

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of the working time, I can't bear working time because you know it's in the restaurant,

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then it's a Michelin restaurant, it's like you work from day to night and even the weekend,

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the only thing that I can do is just like on my bed.

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So yeah.

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Yeah, I've been there.

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So it's too much for me the working time.

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But the concept of having the tea with different tea for different step for different plate

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is a very creative and testing menu and a very interesting menu for people who want

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to discover the mixture between the Asian cuisine and the European cuisine.

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So I think it's really nice to do that.

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Yeah, that's a place I would like to visit.

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It's super small, right?

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It's like 12 seats only, something like that.

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Yeah, and actually they have three places.

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So the one I worked is one Michelin star restaurant, so they have something like 20-25 places and

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they also have another bistro, it's called L'Ait-Tart, it's like a restaurant but a lot

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of Michelin restaurants and maybe they have 30 places, something like that, that you can

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have some tea there, you can have some small plates there.

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It's also very nice.

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And the third one is the tea shop, it's also their first one, that the boss, Monsieur Lai,

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he do the tea in his tea shop and we can also taste the boss there with the tea.

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So it's their first shop there.

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Okay, nice.

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You said it's super interesting the way they do pairings with the food, with the different

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dishes and the tasting menu.

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Are there a lot, do they use classic teas or something really crazy?

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A lot of different teas from China because the boss, the owner, he's from Hong Kong and

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he knows a lot of different teas from China, so in his tea shop he suggests a lot of different

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teas and also he's doing a tea for the day, like today he has one tea that is the tea

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of the day, you can taste that and after that he suggests three or four different teas on

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the menu and if someone knows a lot of tea and you ask him, maybe he can do another tea

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that you ask for.

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And what is Yamcha in China?

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Is it like a way of eating and drinking tea?

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So Yamcha, that means drink tea, Yamcha.

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Yam means drink, cha means tea, so Yamcha is drink tea.

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And so as you know the owner, Mr. Lai, he came from Hong Kong, so Hong Kong is just

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close to Canton, so close to our province Guangdong and our province Guangdong, Hong

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Kong and Macau, we have a culture very similar, that means Yamcha is like something we do

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a lot and in fact Yamcha, when we say, for example when we meet some friends or when

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we go to eat with our family and we say, hey let's go Yamcha, that means let's go and

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to have the breakfast together.

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So Yamcha is become an activity that it's like we are going to have breakfast together.

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Why is it breakfast?

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Because when we have the breakfast with the dim sum, we always have some tea together.

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We drink teas, we eat dim sum and we take time to spend with family, with friends and

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we can do that every day if you have time of course.

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Every day you can do that as the breakfast.

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Otherwise usually it's like it's a weekend with the family, we do that like a brunch,

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something like that.

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That's it for this week's episode of Potluck Food Talks.

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