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Hi everyone, welcome to Potluck Food Talks. Today I'm here with Esther Merino and we're

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going to talk about drinks, mixology, traveling around the world, being a liquid gastronomy

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professional. How are you Esther?

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Hi, hello Eric. I'm very happy to be here with you.

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To begin, why don't you tell us a little bit about your background? How did you begin

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the food and drink world?

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So basically it wasn't planned at all. I was studying law and then I precisely remember

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IKEA opened in my city so I applied to have like a part-time job. In this case I end up

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studying my last year of the bachelor of law, putting meatballs.

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IKEA, IKEA like the furniture store?

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Yeah, the home furnishing stores.

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Okay, wow. I heard, I'm not sure if that's true, but I heard that it's the largest restaurant

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chain of an European brand because most restaurant chains are, you know, American or from abroad.

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Yeah, definitely. I mean, I'm not sure but it could be perfectly because like it's insane.

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It's super quick.

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And the restaurant experience is a key part of the IKEA experience I think.

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Yeah, yeah, yeah. We are the ones that really are selling furnishing because we are the

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ones that make you a stock, you eat and then you buy again.

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Yeah, exactly. And also for the families and people that don't want to buy, just go to

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the restaurant and spend the day there. And how was the experience working there?

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Was amazing. I end up working with them for years. The process, especially the process

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of internal learning, the trainings, the empowerment there was amazing. Was one of the best experiences

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in my life in those terms. And then I remember in the fourth year, I just had a big, big

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training in another city, like they pay my travel, my flight, my hotel room and so on.

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And then when I came back to my position, I saw that Vasculinary Center exists basically.

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And then I was reading my options and I had the chance to ask for a sabbatical year to

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study. So right after coming back from the training, I asked for this sabbatical year.

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And of course, I was kind of nervous, kind of shaking as well, because like imagine you're

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just coming from an amazing learning journey week. They pay for everything. They teach

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you so many things. And then you're asking for living one year. And at the end, it was

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even more awesome because I personally remember the director of the shop in Valladolid where

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I was working. He told me, I'm not giving you one sabbatical year. I'm giving you four

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sabbatical years to study the whole bachelor. Oh, wow. So it was amazing. And I want to

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know more about the working in a restaurant in Ikea. I can imagine like the whole procedure

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manuals. Do they look like the catalog of Ikea or the with the whole branding system

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or how is it? Actually, this is an amazing question, Eric, because like normally you

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will imagine like like an encyclopedia, like a big book, a thick book with a lot of information.

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And of course, we had some manuals and and procedures manual. But they were very specific

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in terms of like how you manage the food safety things or how do you make a salmon roll or

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things like that, like the basic protocol. But then we had an amazing internet where

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you have there everything. So actually, I think is one of the keys of Ikea in this case,

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because it's a real tool. You know, sometimes you have a big book that basically is having

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dust in a shelf is not a is not a is not a tool. Nobody uses it. Yeah, exactly. And then

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with the internet, what was way more easier, way more efficient as well. And you have whatever

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you want to imagine. You you had it there. So yeah, yeah. Super cool. Like having a good

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learning management system. I heard that Magnus Nielsen, did he also start at Ikea? I'm not

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sure. I'm not sure. But there is like a famous Nordic chef who also started at Ikea. That's

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funny. Could be could be. I don't know. To be honest, I don't know. So then you went

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to to BCC. Yeah, I went to BCC in 2014. And then of course, I was thinking in in the chef

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side, I wanted to study avant-garde cuisine and be the most amazing chef in the world

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and blah, blah, blah. But then thanks to all the teachers, like we are surrounded by amazing

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people running must be center. Sometimes we don't even realize how lucky we are about

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all the people we know, all the people that is sharing their knowledge. So basically I

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had Pilar Garcia Granero, Coro Gonzalo Parras. I know Irene Patsy and they start sharing

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with me a lot of knowledge about customer interaction, service, wines. And then inside

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me started to grow this feeling of like, wow, I really like to cook, but I really love to

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see how the guests enjoy a drink or or an elaboration and explain it. And also like

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kind of being the representant of everyone that takes part in the experience. Like I'm

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representing the chef. Sometimes I'm representing the winemaker sometimes when I'm putting a

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wine. So yeah, at the end in the bachelor, I decide to to continue with the avant-garde.

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So as you know, in the third year, you have to choose one specialization. Yeah, just to

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make a short note on that at Basque Culinary Center and the bachelor degree after the third

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year, you can choose between three specializations. It can be business and innovation. The other

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one is food science and industry. And the other one, which is the one that Esther took

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is avant-garde, which is basically working around avant-garde restaurants, high end restaurants.

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Yeah. And basically since the beginning, I had to, I started to have very clear this

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idea of like, wow, everything that I will say is not new anymore in kitchen is going

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to be something new in the service part. So I can apply a lot of the avant-garde and cutting

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edge techniques for interactions with the guests, for plating up in front of the guests

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as a waiter. And also then something that really changed my mind was realizing like,

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wow, if I cook liquid in front of the guests, I will have this eye of chef and I will have

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this eye of service or waiter. So I will have bone within a profession that is bartending.

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So yeah. Yeah. It's a pretty much neglected craft. The one of the service, front of the

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house interacting with the guests. And I think it's 50% of the experience. Like it's like,

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like in movies you have sound and image. It can't be just one. It has to be the combination

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of both. Right. I had a lot of conversation about it. Basically one of the most important

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ones for me was with the Rene and Annegret from Noma. Annegret is the, I mean, we all

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know who is Rene, but Annegret is the restaurant manager, the front of the house leader. And

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they were saying that a good service will save a burnt sandwich, but the most amazing

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sandwich will not save a bad service. And it's totally true.

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Yeah. Yeah. I completely agree. Was it, was there a moment where, when, when you realized

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that, okay, I really like doing this, being at the front of the house?

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Right after the presentation of my thesis that just to, to summarize, I ended up being

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with an anthropologist in Barcelona analyzing the human behavior around cocktail bars. It

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was super interesting, but imagine even my family, I perfectly remember my father saying

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like, okay, yes, there, low, then chef, then front of the house, then bartender. And now

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you are with an anthropologist. Like, yeah, well, that anthropologist, his name is Sergio

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Hill. Yeah. And he's the one who coined the term gastropology, which is a merge between

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anthropology and gastronomy. And in his, he uses his restaurant as a lab to understand

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precisely interaction with guests or how the ecosystem of a neighborhood works specifically.

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It's super interesting. Everything he does.

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Yeah. Basically it's like a, like a social laboratory where you can analyze really the

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human behavior with food, but also the human behavior itself, because a bar is something

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that is semi-private and semi-public. So yeah, yeah. You get a lot of amazing information

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and like actual information that you could not get from anywhere else or from any other

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discipline. So yeah, I learned a lot and yeah, I was, I was answering my father. Like I know

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I have to specialize, but the right now I have the feeling that I need to explore more.

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Right. And your thesis was, what was the topic of your thesis? Wow. To make it a short story.

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It's called the floating host. Okay. Wow. And it's based on analyzing the role of a

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waiter or a bartender, because sometimes we are managing things that the, from the guest

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will be totally unnoticed, but it will be a hundred percent changing the experience.

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Like imagine that you have, for example, the first date and then as a bartender or as a

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waiter, I can feel that there is a little bit of distance between you both. And then

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I change a little bit the temperature of the light or I put a candle or I change, I change

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the music in a more relaxed or romantic one. So that thing will change your experience

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because you will be more relaxed and we'll start talking with your date and so on. But

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it's something completely unnoticed. You will not be aware about if I'm changing the music

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or not or who is the one managing that. Yeah. So all these fat, all this management of intangibles

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make us be a floating host that is floating. Yeah. That's super interesting. Yeah. I mentioned,

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I think we did an episode on restaurant user experience and I mentioned this experiments

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of Charles Pence where he would use music in supermarkets and in the wine section with

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Italian music, people would walk by more Italian wine and Spanish music, more Spanish wine.

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But this is something nobody notices. It's just the results, the numbers, you know, and

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it's super interesting. Going back to the beginning, I have to say, for example, in

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Ikea, they had studied that since the beginning, like we are not inventing something new at

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all. Of course. I'm sure. I'm pretty sure that big companies like Ikea know exactly

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which music to put to enhance sales. Because I personally remember one, one manual of like

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the type of music we have to put it. The shop was empty or full or packed or yeah. Yeah.

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It's psychology. Exactly. Then you also worked, you went to the Philippines and you worked

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with Chelle Gallery. Yeah. How was that? How did you end up there? Wow. Because actually

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one of my best friends, I'm from Valladolid and she's from Valladolid. Her name is called

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Julia. She fell in love with a guy from the Philippines and now she's happily married

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with two kids. And I really wanted to visit her because she was talking a lot about the

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biodiversity of the Philippines, the different ingredients and the different parts and Iceland

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and so on. And I really wanted to to know more about it. Right. And then I start looking

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for places to go and I found out Chelle and of course Chelle has an amazing CV. I mean,

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he's been from Nerua to El Bulli to Mugaritz. Yeah. Mugaritz. Many different restaurants

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in Spain and in the world. And then he, he opened a gallery and like since the beginning,

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he was like super successful in the Philippines as a chef, like trying to enhance and showcase

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the biodiversity of the Philippines. So yeah, I decided to go with him. Yeah. The concept

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of the restaurant is, as you say, is enhancing the territory, right? Like they work with,

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if I'm not wrong, only local products, only products from the Philippines in a very avant

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garde way. Exactly. And it's, I think it was back at a time he was very clever because

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he was presenting something familiar in an unfamiliar way. Like for example, he was using

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toasted sticky rice or like whatever, like a local produce from the Philippines, but

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he was using flavors that for or ways to cook that for him were familiar, but not for, for

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the Philippines. So a lot of techniques and combinations from the north of Spain, specifically

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from Cantabria, but also from Basque Country and Asturias and so on. So he was mixing very

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well the produce with techniques that he knew that worked well together, but were very unknown

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and not common in the Philippines. In the Philippines, you say the spring rolls are

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called lumpias, right? Lumpias. Yeah. That's funny because in Venezuela you say lumpias

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as well. And in the rest of the world, the Spanish speaking world, you say spring rolls,

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the literal translation. Yeah. And I was recently in Singapore and I saw this, I found out that

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lumpia is a Philippine word and I was like, wow, this is crazy because I don't know how

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that word came only to Venezuela. I want to find that out. It will be very interesting

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to see from the anthropological perspective because it's totally linked. The Philippines

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was, I'm going to say discovered. It was a Spanish colony, right? For a long time. Yeah,

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exactly. It was a Spanish colony. We ended up there in the same way that we ended up

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in Latin America. I'm not going to be very proud of that, but well, at the end we were

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there and the Philippines, the Islands were super important because it was a base for

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the commerce exchange. So it was one of the principal points to go to America, take some

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produce, then stop in the Philippines and then continue. Okay. It was like a key logistic

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point. Exactly. Okay. And then you can see, for example, in the Philippines, one of the

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most traditional dishes is care care, which is like an oxtail cooked in a kind of a Spanish

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style, but with a cashew nut sauce. And then it has a chote as well. And for me it's like,

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wow, it's super representative. This mixture of cultures and yeah, like you have a chote

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that is from Latin America. You have an elaboration that is mainly from Spain and it's cooked

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in a Spanish style. And then you have the cashew nuts and another herbs that are more

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typical from the Philippines. So it's a very good example of this mixture. And I'm totally

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sure that lumpia will be something like that for sure. Yeah. I'm also sure about that.

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I have this friend, Ivan Bram. I interviewed him. He has this restaurant in Singapore called

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Nouri and what he does is he focuses on what he calls crossroads cooking or crossroads gastronomy.

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And this is an exact example of that, of this foods traveling across the world and meeting

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in a specific point and creating this new combinations of flavors in a kind of organic

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way, not forced. And all of his developments are like this. He actually has in his research

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and development side of the restaurant, only anthropologists to kind of find these, these

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type of stories. That's amazing. It's also interesting to know that the San Miguel beer,

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which is one of the major brands in Spain, it was created in the Philippines. So if you

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go there, there's a lot of San Miguel beer, right?

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A lot. And also San Miguel owns not only the beer, if not like, sorry about it, but the

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CTS gin that you can found in a 7-Eleven or things like that. Also, I mean, they are huge

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in the Philippines. And, and also it's very common to see, for example, Torres. And I

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remember in 2016 that it was the first time I was in the Philippines. Brandy wasn't a

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thing in Spain. It was like very, uh, in decadence, let's say. And, uh, and in the Philippines

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was like totally the opposite. And I was like, wow, really? They are drinking more brandy

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than us. Like that, that should mean something. And we have to realize like, why? So yeah.

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Yeah. Like poppies colonial consequences probably. And there is a lot of words in Spanish, like

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Cuchara, Bano, Toalla. That are also related to the Philippines. Yeah. Yeah. Are part of

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the, uh, it's called Tagalog, the language in the Philippines. I mean, you have, it's

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very difficult. I remember, for example, to say hello, how are you? It's like, uh, so

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nothing related with Spanish, I think. A little bit. That's, I'm like, yeah. The, the accent,

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the way you pronounce, and like some words, specifically, Kelly, I remember Cuchara, Toalla,

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Bano are the same. Okay. Then you went also to Noma? Yeah. That was like after finishing

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the bachelor and then working during almost two years in Vascularity Center as a freelance

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counselor with Pachi Tritino, that was my partner as well. Then I decide, I basically

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decide to go to Copenhagen. I asked to have three months to go to Copenhagen to analyze

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something that I really wanted to analyze. That was the touch points between front of

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the houses and sustainability. So analyzing the touch points between our daily activities

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and how is the importance of that or the impact in sustainability. So I asked to be at a mass

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for that. And then I asked to be at Noma for that as well. And then when I finished these

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three months in both the restaurants doing this kind of internship, they offered me a

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position and then I was at Noma like few time, but very short time because it happened the

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first lockdown in Denmark. So I have to say I was very lucky because they opened Poppel.

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So all of us, we went to start working with Poppel and imagine when Rene told me like,

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okay, is there... Poppel is this burger place? Yeah. Okay. It's like a fancy burger place

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and... I mean, it's more like a casual restaurant. It's not a burger place anymore because at

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the beginning, of course, in the pandemic was only about the burgers. But right now,

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for me, it's one of my favorite restaurants about the sites, about the way they cook veggies

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and seasonal food is insanely good. Okay. I had it on my list. I was recently in Copenhagen.

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I didn't visit the Poppel. I went to a few other restaurants. It's great. It's super

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tasty, super delicious. And also like you can feel that it's like a casual Noma. Like

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the way they cook the veggies, all the sites are, I mean, the burger is very good, of course,

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but the way they cook the sites, the vegetables is amazing. And then yeah, Rene told me like,

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okay, is that all the ingredients that we have from the Noma fermentation lab? Do you

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want to use them for cocktails? And I was like, like Halle's in Wonderland, you know,

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like wow. Disneyland, of course. Yeah. So you were developing cocktails for Noma during

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the lockdown. This was at the beginning, I was a part of the front of the house waiter

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at Noma. And then after, I think it was 17, 20 days, it happened, the lockdown, I went

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to, to Poppel and together with Francesca Niro, I start building up the concept of the,

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of everything that was in wine. So from non-alcoholic drinks, mocktails, juices, and of course cocktails.

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And then also it was very challenging because, because of course we had to create everything

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for takeaway, but I've learned so much back at a time, like so much, the way you can make

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so much money, giving accessibility to the most of the population to amazing ingredients

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from the Noma fermentation lab and also how to use them. I remember we had a, a very successful

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drink that was called a Bloody Frankie that was based on the flavor profile of our Bloody

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Mary. And it was pretty bad. So it was in a bottle and then you buy it and you drink

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it at home or wherever you want. And the ingredients were, were left over fermented plum juice,

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left over fermented cherry juice, saffron kombucha, like ingredients like, like that. So nothing

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related at all.

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Nice. That sounds amazing. Nothing related at all with, with Bloody Mary, but the combination

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and the way we presented linking with the Bloody Mary made, made it very successful.

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Like yeah, we were doing the opposite, the opposite as we were talking with Chele. We

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present something unfamiliar in a familiar way. So through the concept of Bloody Mary,

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we create this cocktail and was so delicious and super successful. Like I was, I was learning

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a lot about like, wow, I'm bottling so much quantity of this stuff and we are selling

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a lot and people really like it. And like, yeah, alcohol became like a common holy during

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the lockdowns. Of course, of course, but we have both the alcoholic and non-alcoholic

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and also the learning process of like the shelf life, the way you present the packaging.

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Were you, were you also doing cans or only bottles?

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Only bottles. I was, I was going, uh, my day off, I was going to Empirical to, to just

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for like, like in my, in my free time, just to learn how to use the big wiki, the big

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equipment.

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Okay. So just to explain, Empirical is a company that was started by two ex, uh, the, the,

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the work in the Nordic Food Lab and also in the R&D of, of Noma. And they started this

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company, uh, creating spirits in a, in a way that no one has seen before, because they

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started making a crossover of, uh, traditional distilling techniques of the West of Europe

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and mixing them with, uh, fermentation techniques of, of the Japanese and other cultures. Uh,

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for instance, it wants to, to, you used to make sake and combining this all to create

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new crazy ways of doing liquors, which is amazing.

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Yeah, yeah. They, they started creating new categories every week. Every time they presented

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something, it was a new category, something that you couldn't say that was gin or whiskey

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or any like traditional category, let's say. And also like missing this, say amazing techniques

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and innovation. So yeah, I wanted to learn from them. Uh, they, they've been such an

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inspiration for me and yeah. And then I, I, I was going in my day off just to learn, just

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to help them and learn how to use a different equipment. And there we were doing cans and

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I mean the cans of empirical are delicious, are super delicious.

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Yeah. I've tried a few of their drinks and it's always something impressive and different

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and new. Yeah. I'm a, I'm a big fan. You also mentioned Amaz. Uh, what were you doing at

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Amaz? Amaz was, was the first play where I started this project about analyzing the touch

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points between sustainability and front of the house. And also of course, like it was

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always an inspiration, especially Matt Orlando, that the, I met him when he came to Basque

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Culinary Center and I fall in love with the, with the insights and the mindset he has about

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sustainability. Uh, and then I went there, I asked him to do this kind of internship,

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just being with the front of the house team, but analyzing all the daily activities. And

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I, again, I learned so much also not only about like the main thing that I was going

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based on the analysis, if not like the most simple things that normally are unnoticed

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because they are super simple and normally like you don't think about them. And yeah,

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like it totally changed my way to think in terms of sustainability in Amaz because also

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for me, it was the first time I found a place where front of the house was totally involved

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in sustainability in the daily activities of the restaurant. And also the first time

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or the best example of a chef taking in count the importance or the importance of front

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of the house.

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Yeah, like the, the, also the game changing thing they did, uh, I can think of very few

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restaurants where the key value proposal is waste cooking and using things that are usually

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discarded and turning them into something delicious. And also Matt Orlando is a chef

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with an incredible background. He was head chef at Noma and Perse in different times.

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So like two of the best restaurants in the world. I must recently close. I went to the,

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to the venue where is a spora right now. And I know that Matt Orlando is traveling precisely

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in Singapore or Philippines or somewhere.

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He opened, he is based on, I had a very good relationship with him and he's in Singapore.

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He opened together with Will Golfer. Air is called.

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Yeah, exactly. Ivan Bram did a dinner recently with them. That's how I found out.

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Yeah. And like a basically he's there building up the same concept as we, uh, you could find

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at a mass, but there, and also I have to say Singapore right now is an amazing city and

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an amazing example of like how you can support gastronomy and using gastronomy as a, as a

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key factor for changing society and helping society to be more aware about environment,

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climate change and eating delicious and healthy.

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Yeah. It's a, it's an interesting story because Singapore created a strategy called 30 by

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30. Uh, they want to buy 2030 produce a 30% of their, of their food or, and they have

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like many, many very ambitious goals. Um, they know that they can't be like a major

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player in food production worldwide because they're so little, but they can be a major

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player in food technology. Yeah. Like creating patents or even seeds or completely different

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things. And so the, there is a, like a government foundation called Temasek, which is heavily

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investing in all kinds of developments around food. So anyone that has a food startup now

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and goes there will, will get funding for sure for different things because there is

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a lot of funds being granted right now.

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Yeah. And like he's working. I mean, it's great. As you said, such a tiny city right

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now is like, is there one of the biggest examples of this strategy?

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Yeah. I know it was a super interesting, uh, traveling there. Then you ended up in Alchemist.

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Uh, how did you, how, how did that happen?

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Uh, basically I remember Licky and Rasmus were sometimes going to Poppe and then I remember

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one time I was like super excited because I had a new drink and I saw Licky and Rasmus

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coming for the takeaway. And, uh, I don't know why, because I never talked with her

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before. I knew he was here, but we never talked. And then I went, I ran until, uh, the car

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and I gave her, Oh, Licky, please. I would love you to try this new cocktail and give

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me feedback. And then two weeks later they announced that they were looking for, uh,

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for, for somebody to, to have this role about the fermentation at the Alchemist. And, uh,

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I didn't notice that because they were asking, and like, um, through Instagram and through

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different, uh, uh, social media announcing that. But then one time in this case, Diego

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Prado told me like, you know, that Licky asked me about you because they are looking for

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somebody and they think you are perfect and blah, blah, blah. And, uh, and yeah. And

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then I decided to apply and see, I perfectly remember the day we did the first meeting.

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He was saying me like, you were so excited and so motivated with your little bottle asking

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me to try it. That I always keep that in mind. And, uh, and yeah, I mean, it was very hard

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for me. I remember when I left the Poppele in this case, I was crying like a baby. I

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mean, I consider no man like, but when still my family, like Alchemist is as well. Uh,

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but I mean, working from Monday to Friday, from nine to five with all these equipment,

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uh, having the freedom to create, being at Alchemist, learning from amazing professionals.

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I mean, Alchemist has to be one of the best equipped kitchens in the world for sure. Right.

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Right. That's in the top five for sure. For sure. And for example, specifically my role,

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it only a six at Alchemist at least back at a time having somebody just to be on the fermentation

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for drinks and in distillation, it will, I mean, right now I only still know Alchemist

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like having this specific position. So you were developing drinks for the menu or, or

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exactly what? At the beginning was based on doing the Misanplus and producing for, uh,

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the non-alcoholic paintings, like mainly one that is called Botanica. So I was doing all

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the fermentation from kombucha, water kefir and so on. And then I was very lucky because

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I had a college called, uh, Marie Marie back at a time was the, uh, head bartender. And

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of course they had an amazing equipment and I had 50% of my time to do R&D and 50% of

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my time to do the production and the Misanplus. So I start to play a little bit. And of course

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from, uh, Basculinari Center and especially working with Patti Tritino, I knew how to

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use the Rota Ballon, how to distill. So I start playing around and I remember the first

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day I distill a pistachio spirit and I present to Marie like, Hey Marie, look at that. It's

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delicious. And she was like, wow, I'm going to use that for a cocktail in the, in the

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menu. So we start like very naturally without thinking about it, working like that. I was

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the stealing things or presenting new things and Marie was integrating those things in

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the cocktail menu, both in the lounge and in the, in the balcony. So at the beginning

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and at the end of the experience at Alchemist. So, I mean, I love it because without planning

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is like me and the company, we create this position because at the beginning was only

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fermentation, but at the end I was fermented drinks and craft spirit at Alchemist. So both

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extremes like alcohol and non-alcohol. Yeah. And was amazing. That sounds really, really

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amazing. Were you also working in the front of the house or only in the back and the R&D?

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No, I was working in the back. I did service for a month, something like that because a

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colleague, Nina, the head of the Summiliers, she was going to a competition. And then also

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it was very important for me to be in the service this month because back at a time,

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I started being in charge also of the creation of all the cocktails because Marie left. And

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then it was very good for me to, to see how the guests experience the cocktails, how the

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guests behave, the feedback and so on. And also very good to be on the service because

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you learn the timings, the procedures. If, if perhaps, I don't know, a kombucha is better

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to serve in another type of class or yeah. So I was a month, I was, I learned a lot as

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well and like was very important for me to be, to be, to have this month.

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How many Summiliers are in Alchemist? Wow, a lot right now. I'm not sure, but before

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I left, they were seven. And then, I mean, in front of the house, they were like 29,30

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for 48 people, four days a week. Wow. Incredible. But the level of, I mean, the level of study

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and professionalism and concentration of like, you have really to be focused when you are

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in front of the house in a Alchemist. You have to study just to, to understand like

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the different steps, the different, the different impressions that you are going to explain

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to the guests. So just for putting a foot or a feet in, in, in the service room at Alchemist,

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you have to study a lot. I never seen that anywhere. It's because I'm normal. For example,

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we had a lot of training, but it was very different. It was more about how to approach

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the guests. We had trainings about the wines, trainings about, for example, the wild duck

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and how are the parts and like the origin of that and so on. Or for example, another

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one about how we can change our way to speak and our sound depending on a guest that is

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from Asia or depending on a guest that is from the Mediterranean or from the North

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of Europe. So yeah, it was more based on that, the training, but at Alchemist it was like,

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we have a special language just with symbols and the hands, just to communicate with it.

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With each other and you have to study that. Like hand signs. Wow. That's amazing. Yeah.

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And now you're working as a drink developer, like as an R&D freelance or what are you doing

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exactly? Yeah, right now I'm freelance. I'm working mostly in academia. I still go in

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a lot to Baspronari Center for master classes, then doing scientific articles as well. It's

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something that I really like. And then the other part is beverage development and the

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third part is consultancy. So these three different parts right now are the ones that

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I'm working on, but specifically I think academia for me is the one that I enjoy the most. And

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then of course the beverage development, because you learn, you know, new things, you meet

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people, you know, new ingredients, new techniques, and it's super inspiring. Your profile reminds

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me of this cocktail place that Grand Acats opened in Chicago, Aviary, which is a cocktail

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place. But the interesting thing is that, I don't know if it sells just like that, but

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I know that there were no bartenders. It were chefs doing cocktails, like with high-end

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or avant-garde culinary techniques and turning them into the liquid world. That's kind of

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also like your profile somehow. I don't know. I'm very glad, very happy that you think that.

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Thank you very much, Eddie. But yeah, I mean, Aviary changed everything. Aviary was the

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first place, not only about what you are saying about like the approach of a chef mind into

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giving more quality and more overall about like the performance and procedures within

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a cocktail. Because sometimes a cocktail is like, yeah, half a line, shake it, but how

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much time do I have to shake it? What is going to be the dilution, the alcohol by volume?

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So it wasn't very precise and Aviary changed that. But when the first book of Aviary was

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like a game changer, because they start approaching the recipes with a chef mindset. So actually

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it was the first time you had the same units of measure in a cocktail. That for me was

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amazing because I was so frustrated like why we mix bad spoons with drops, with centiliters,

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with ounces, with grams, with a splash of... Yeah. And then appeared the first book of

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Aviary that was a game changer. And especially the other one that is called Zero that they

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released a little bit more than two years ago, that they start also a methodology of

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creating mocktails because they realized like it wasn't at the same level. Like people that

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pay $10 for a cocktail wasn't at the same level of quality, the guy that was paying

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$10 for a mocktail. So they present this book sharing a methodology to create different

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layers of complexity within the non-alcoholic cocktails and new techniques for like reaching

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a good flavor, a good persistency and so on. And also was again a game changer. So yeah,

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I think it couldn't be Eric, you put the best example.

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It also comes to my mind, El Bulli, they also did like edible cocktails and these kinds

389
00:41:16,320 --> 00:41:21,000
of things in the appetizing section. I never went to El Bulli, but I read a lot and saw

390
00:41:21,000 --> 00:41:22,000
a lot of things.

391
00:41:22,000 --> 00:41:27,520
No, you're totally right. El Bulli was the one that started everything, but the game

392
00:41:27,520 --> 00:41:34,600
changer was Aviary because it was an actual place, an actual cocktail bar. But literally

393
00:41:34,600 --> 00:41:40,840
before El Bulli, nobody was aware about like having cocktails in a degustation menu. Perhaps

394
00:41:40,840 --> 00:41:45,520
if somebody asked for it, yeah, the classic cocktails, but not like El Bulli did. And

395
00:41:45,520 --> 00:41:56,480
also something that amazed me is El Bulli from 1998 start to documentate all the cocktails

396
00:41:56,480 --> 00:41:59,640
in the same way they did the documentation for the food.

397
00:41:59,640 --> 00:42:06,720
Well, you have the 455 that is the, I think this number is for, I don't know if it's the

398
00:42:06,720 --> 00:42:14,000
whiskey sour pastilla or the hot frozen gin fish. But anyways, they start to treat at

399
00:42:14,000 --> 00:42:19,360
the same level of importance, cocktails and food. And also every time they were presenting

400
00:42:19,360 --> 00:42:24,680
a new technique, they were applying in food and in cocktails. So for example, the hot

401
00:42:24,680 --> 00:42:31,200
foam, it was in an elaboration, in a culinary elaboration, but also it was in this case

402
00:42:31,200 --> 00:42:37,240
in the hot frozen gin fish where you have a cocktail with two temperatures that imagine

403
00:42:37,240 --> 00:42:44,560
when they present in 2000. So you imagine the wine going in 2000, having a cocktail

404
00:42:44,560 --> 00:42:47,360
with two textures and two temperatures.

405
00:42:47,360 --> 00:42:53,040
Something from another planet. Absolutely. Yeah. That's crazy. How is your creative process?

406
00:42:53,040 --> 00:42:58,040
If you, if you are to develop a new drink, what's your starting point? Could you share

407
00:42:58,040 --> 00:42:59,540
like an example?

408
00:42:59,540 --> 00:43:06,040
So always my starting point is say the anthropological perspective. As I told you before, like since

409
00:43:06,040 --> 00:43:14,360
I met anthropology, uh, is something I will never get rid of. It changed my way of, uh,

410
00:43:14,360 --> 00:43:20,960
see the things. And I always start analyzing the relation between, uh, humans with this

411
00:43:20,960 --> 00:43:26,560
technique or the ingredient or the concept I want to develop. And then once I define

412
00:43:26,560 --> 00:43:33,440
that I start to look into more the food science part in terms of the technique, the reactions,

413
00:43:33,440 --> 00:43:40,640
the behavior, the technological properties that I can apply from a, from a ingredient.

414
00:43:40,640 --> 00:43:46,760
And, uh, for example, one example, because I always put the same examples and today I

415
00:43:46,760 --> 00:43:53,680
want to put a new one. So it's called a cocktail called Viva Mexico because as a Spanish, I

416
00:43:53,680 --> 00:44:02,160
invented a way to say, I'm sorry to Latin America because, uh, what we did when we conquer,

417
00:44:02,160 --> 00:44:09,480
uh, Latin America and, or discover, let's say through a cocktail. So through Viva Mexico,

418
00:44:09,480 --> 00:44:13,560
I was, uh, taking the concept of the meal, but that is something that you will find in

419
00:44:13,560 --> 00:44:21,520
Mexico of course, but also in Venezuela, in Columbia, in many different other, uh, parts

420
00:44:21,520 --> 00:44:30,040
and then taking corn Chile, habanero and tamarind and hibiscus as the main ingredients, super

421
00:44:30,040 --> 00:44:36,400
super Mexican ingredients. Yeah. So here the goal was like not to use a orange or lemon

422
00:44:36,400 --> 00:44:41,800
at all. So all the acidity of the cocktail was coming from the tamarind and the hibiscus.

423
00:44:41,800 --> 00:44:48,560
Then I did vacuum distilled Chile, habanero spirit, distilling habanero based on alcohol

424
00:44:48,560 --> 00:44:53,000
and then distilling habanero vinegar and then doing a blend between both of them because

425
00:44:53,000 --> 00:44:59,360
capsaicin is not volatile. So you will not have all the spiciness. You will be able to

426
00:44:59,360 --> 00:45:07,360
feel the cucumber, the watermelon, the melon that the, this, uh, Chile has itself. That's

427
00:45:07,360 --> 00:45:13,320
the one I tried at your place last time. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. That was incredible. Yeah. Super

428
00:45:13,320 --> 00:45:19,240
good. And then mix with the tamarind and the hibiscus. And then on, on the top was a corn

429
00:45:19,240 --> 00:45:27,960
foam with a smoked bark to have this kind of corn smoky flavor profile also with different

430
00:45:27,960 --> 00:45:33,720
texture. And yeah, it was a way to say, I'm sorry through the concept of milpa and as

431
00:45:33,720 --> 00:45:40,080
a Spanish in Latin America.

432
00:45:40,080 --> 00:45:44,520
That's it for this week's episode of potluck food talks. If you like what we're doing,

433
00:45:44,520 --> 00:45:48,960
make sure to subscribe to the podcast so you never miss an episode. You can also find us

434
00:45:48,960 --> 00:46:10,680
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