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Hi everyone, welcome to Potluck Food Talks. Today we have a very special guest, Leslie

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Wong from Taiwan. Hi Leslie.

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Hello Eric.

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We've been talking online via chats for a couple of years. I remember when I was in

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Bolivia I saw your work. Well, first of all, let me present Leslie. She's an illustration

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artist focused on food and gastronomy. So she travels, she draws street foods or dishes

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and drinks from the places she visits. My first question would be, Leslie, how did you

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start drawing? What got you into the world of, in the broad term, just drawing and illustration

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before food? Or were the two things together from the very beginning?

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Well, I was studying art school actually when I was in elementary school in Trinidad High.

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But after I didn't study art anymore after I go to the college. However, I still really

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like to work on something visual. So during the studies, I always drawing and sketching

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on my notebooks. But what I draw is about what I'm going to eat later.

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That's how it started.

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Yeah, that's a diary and like what I ate for breakfast, lunch and dinner. And that's starting

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to become a habit of just recording the food that I ate for four years during the college

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of time. And then I started to realize that this is drawing is something I'm really passionate

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about. And so I started to apply to the grad school to United States study environmental

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graphic design. And another passion of mine is about gastronomy. So there are opportunity

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to go to Gustu, working with NGO with our university workshops, like summer workshop.

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That's why I get into know about what fine dining is about and what the food world is

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about. So I didn't have any background about food education, but that's the starting point

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of my career about art and food.

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And Bolivia, you did the work documenting street food vendors, right? Like I know that

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probably that was pretty cool. And also I have to say like street food in La Paz is

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super nice. I really like what I had there.

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Yeah, I'm curious which part of illustration or art versus scene in Bolivia.

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Well, all the ones you did for Gustu, actually.

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Yeah, the menus, the menus. Yes. The mirrors.

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And also, yeah, like there was this project, I think it's called Summa Payada, that was

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about street food vendors. And yeah, it was, it was a different, the most iconic street

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food dishes of La Paz. Yeah, that was pretty cool.

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Yeah. Since that was the first time for me to travel to South America. And there are

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so many different kinds of ingredients that I have never seen in Taiwan. Also, of course,

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not in the United States. Yeah. So I, as a foreigner, as a tourist, I think it will be

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struggle for people if they want to order something from the menu, but they don't know

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what exactly the ingredient is. There are so many ingredients that didn't even have

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an English name. For example, the papas, hundreds of different potatoes. How can you describe

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what kind of potato it is? So I started to working on research to documenting the ingredients

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that they use in the restaurants by illustrations. So that's a system that I created since 2013

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and 2014. Took me about one year to finish hundreds of different kinds of ingredients,

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illustrations, bank, which they are still using right now on their menu. It's a system

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that they can easy to change by themselves and sustainable system. So that's one part

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of my research at that time. What other countries have you drawn its food?

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Yeah. After Bolivia, I started to do the backpacking, traveling. And the first stop I say it's Portugal.

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I went to Europe for backpacking. And then of course, Copenhagen, I went to Noma to see

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what actually this come from. London, Paris, Milan, Spain. I just traveling all around

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Europe. And then when I come back to Taiwan, I started to travel around more Asia countries.

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So like Hong Kong, Singapore, Japan, Korea for the past 10 years.

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Yeah. I've been following you on Instagram for a few years and I always see you like

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visiting these cafes and places and restaurants all over Asia. It's super interesting.

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Yes. I was working on a project called Alice Magazine.

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Ah, yeah. I've seen it on your social media.

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Yeah. It's a small illustration booklets that documenting my food diary while traveling.

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And that's only one of the way for myself to learn about the cultural differences through

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food. And that's also why I started to work on my new book, which introducing the Taiwanese

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street foods, because I have so many friends that they are not familiar with Taiwanese

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food as well.

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Okay. Let's get into that. But before we get into your book and Taiwanese street food,

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let's introduce a little bit. What are the main influence in Taiwanese food culture?

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Because it's not simple, right? Like you have Chinese heritage, but it was also occupied

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by Japan, if I'm not wrong. So you have like a mixture of different things. So how could

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you, how would you describe or explain this?

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Yeah. Before I get into this, are there any Taiwanese food that are coming to your mind

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that you think it's familiar with?

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Not really. No, not really. Because, and actually one of my favorite food movies is this Taiwanese

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movie, Eat Man, Woman, Drink.

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Oh, wow.

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And for me, it was always, every time I would see it, I was thinking this Chinese movie,

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you know, like I wouldn't like my brain wouldn't process that, that is a different and separate

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thing, you know, like because culturally it's very similar, right? It has very close links.

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Yes. But you are familiar with Chinese food and Japanese food, right?

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Exactly.

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Yeah. So I think that-

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But I couldn't name not a single Taiwanese, not food, not even tea, nothing. No, it's

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interesting.

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Yeah. But Taiwan are renowned for our food. So I'm curious about like what kind of food

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outside of the world understand about Taiwan?

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Well, what comes to my mind, of course, are dumplings. That would be the first thing.

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The ding tai feng, the soup dumplings, xiaolongbao.

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Xiaolongbao I have tried. Yes.

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Xiaolongbao. Yeah. Xiaolongbao is from Taiwan. Boba tea, you can see here.

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Okay. Xiaolongbao is from Taiwan. Okay. I didn't knew this. I have cooked that actually.

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I don't know. I see.

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Xiaolongbao and I didn't knew that.

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Yeah. Originally from China, from Shanghai, but in Taiwan we have our version. They're

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thin skin and boba tea is very popular and also guabao.

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What is boba tea?

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Boba tea, bubble tea.

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Ah, bubble tea, of course.

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Yeah.

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Yes, yes, yes.

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Yeah. Bubble tea also called boba tea. So it's from Taiwan.

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Ah, I didn't knew that as well.

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Yeah. So that you can refer to our tea culture. It's very like, it's everywhere. So from

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authentic gongfu tea, which is a very good tea too. Like every day you can see like tea

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stand of boba. This is also one part of Tony's culture. And street food, it's so many. We

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have bunch of night markets and there are street foods called pork rice, braised pork rice,

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beef noodles, the pork blood cake, stinky tofu.

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Ah, stinky tofu I've tried. Yeah. That's nice.

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Yeah. Stinky tofu and all kinds of street foods that you can see the influence of Chinese

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and Japanese culture. I'm going to give you some examples. For example, sushi. It's very

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interesting that there's kind of way of prepping sushi here in Taiwan, but you couldn't even

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find it in Japan. We usually put a lot of ingredients from the locals, right? So we

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put meat floss, for example, in the sushi.

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So there is like a, how to say, Taiwan has its own sushi culture.

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Yes. I would say Taiwanese, Japanese, a Taiwan version Japanese food culture.

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Okay. Yeah. Because you have the same thing in Peru, for instance, like a Japanese Peruvian

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thing.

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And we do have many of those kinds of Japanese influence food that you can only find in Taiwan.

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And also I like the way of saying, instead of saying Taiwan is a melting pot, you can

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describe it as Taiwan's spicy hot pot. Have you heard of the hot pot? It's divided in

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two. Yeah. To kind of broth. Yeah. Because we are mainly influenced from Chinese food

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culture and Japanese food culture because we were occupied by Japan for about 50 years.

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And before that, there are also different East coast of Chinese migrants come to Taiwan.

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So we also have Hoklo and Hakka kind of Chinese culture.

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These are groups of people of Chinese. The ones you mentioned, Hokko and Hakka.

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Hokko and Hakka. And the way of their cooking, their food is very different. Hokko food

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is more like light soup and seafood, this kind of flavor. And Hakka food is more strong,

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saltier, a lot of fermentation, a lot of conserved food preparation techniques. So we do have

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a lot of these kind of mixtures. And after the World War II, the Western culture come

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to Taiwan. So we do have a lot of American influences as well. So we do have like a bunch

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of burger shops, which is called Mayor Mei. That's very popular in Taiwan. It's a kind

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of breakfast shop you can find basically everywhere. Okay. But what is it exactly? Burger for breakfast.

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The burger is only one part of the menu. There are like 20 different variations of breakfast

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options, but you can see like sandwiches, hamburgers, but these are all Taiwanese flavors

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with mayo, tomato sauce, but can taste definitely different from American version of burger.

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No, absolutely. I was recently in Singapore. It was my first trip to Asia and I would see

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the burger restaurants and I was like, okay, this is like a super Asian adaptation of burgers,

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you know, with, yeah, I don't know, fermented spicy sauces or these kinds of things. Yeah.

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But I think it's pretty cool though, those mixtures. There are also many steak houses,

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but it's variation of different kinds of price ranges, range from $5 for a steak to $200

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for a steak. So it's like huge here. You can see the mixture of it. So it's from Western,

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but it's cooked on the iron plate. It's more like Japanese style, right? Teppanyaki kind

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of cooking. Yes, but on top of the steak, we'll put some noodles, which is like noodles

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and sunny side up eggs and the sauce of mushroom. So which is like, you can find like many different

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kinds of combinations in one dish. This is like super fusion. This is like a street food

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dish. What did you just describe? Yes, you can find on in a night market. Okay. What's

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the name of this one? The steak. It's iron steak. Okay. Yeah. The other thing I wanted

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to ask you, I got really enthusiastic about tea recently and every time when I talk with

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tea experts, they always put Taiwan on the top three. They talk, yeah, Japan, China and

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Taiwan has a very special place in the tea world. Why is that? And what has Taiwanese

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tea different from others? I understand it's also a mixture of Chinese and Japanese, right?

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Yeah, definitely. But, um, be honest, I'm not a master of tea person. So I would say

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for, for myself, my personal experience drinking teas, like drinking water, like very, very

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common beverage that we drink every day. I have a glass of tea right now with me and

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you can see all kinds of different bottle tea and of course different regions. I think

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the geography of Taiwan, cause we have mountains and we are very geometrically or climate friendly

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for tea growing and also the development techniques. It's from like hundreds of years of developing.

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Is there like a, I don't know, like a famous Taiwanese tea, like a type specific or a place

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that is worth visiting or something like that? There are six main regions of tea growing areas

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and they are basically around different kinds of mountains. So Taiwan is not big, it's an

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island, right? But we do have many mountains. So there are teas from Alishan, which is like

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very, very high class tea. Sanlinxi, Lishan, Lugu, Dongding, Oolongcha. There are so many

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different kinds of variations of tea that you can find basically in different regions.

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Good. Now that we have all this background, let's talk about your book. It's kind of like

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a guide for people to find places. How would you present your book?

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Okay. Let me show you the book. It's an illustration book that introducing 200 different kinds

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of Taiwanese street food stalls all around Taiwan. Cause there are so many street foods

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and the regional variations are quite different. So I decided to work on this book since the

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COVID-19 start. I couldn't travel anymore and for myself finally have time to deeply

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go into Taiwan in different cities. Nice.

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Yeah. Cause for myself, even for myself, I'm from Taiwan, I don't know the differences

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of different places, regional food differences. And I really take time. I take three years

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to work on this. Oh nice.

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To actually go to visit local friends and eat the food that they recommend me. So it's

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really from the locals recommendations. What is it with the book and numbers exactly?

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You documented 200 stalls and how many regions all over the country?

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All over the country. Covered the 16 different cities. So it's from Taipei to like all around

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Taiwan.

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Oh, wow. What a wonderful project to visit 16 cities and find their best street food

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places in each one. That's something I want to do.

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Yeah. I'll definitely show you around. Cause the reason why I start on this book is I want

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to show this to friends. I want to learn first and I have some places to bring you around.

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And this is something I have to definitely start. So I didn't know that's such a big

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project. I was expected maybe one year I can finish like traveling. And then when I start

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traveling, I feel it's so many, so many different nations and different kinds of food that you

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can find. Hard to find in Taipei. Taipei is a capital, right? But you can already find

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many kinds of street foods from all around Taiwan because people come to Taipei for living.

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They start their restaurants and stalls, but there are still many different street foods

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that you can only find in certain regions because of the, maybe the ingredients and

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the way of cooking and the way of tasting differently.

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What do you show from each stall? Like just the dish, also the stall. Do you tell a story

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of the place? Do you describe the best dish? How is exactly the each stall in your book?

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Actually every single restaurant, I definitely taste it. So it's a personal experience of

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documenting the feeling and the texture and how the food tastes like. But the majority

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part is my personal experience by discovering Taiwan culture by eating. So this is basically

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not just a where to go eat guide. It's more like informing an idea of what is Taiwanese

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food about, what is Taiwanese street food about. Because when we go to night market

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or when you search online, there are definitely like 10 street food must to eat in Taiwan.

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But there are not just 10. For me it's like after digging in, there are like hundreds

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of different variations. I believe in your country, there must be so many regional food,

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right?

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No, of course. And in all of the countries that I live, of course, there is like an idea

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of a standard dish and there are millions of variation. Everyone has its own secret.

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Everyone recognizes a dish that it is the thing, but you know, everyone has its own

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touch. That's the thing. I think that's what gastronomy is about.

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Yes. And also it's memory connections with friends. So yeah, it's a mixture of both

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like personal experience and also like the illustrations of documenting like an illustration

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book.

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What is your process when you illustrate a place or a dish? Do you do it by memory?

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Do you take a picture and then use it as a guide? Do you do it before, afterwards, while

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you're eating? I don't know. How is it?

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Usually when I'm traveling, I usually draw on the dining table because it's a fast sketch.

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When I eat it, I just document it right away. So I will bring the material that it's easy

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to travel with, which is just a notebook, but with scratch paper and also with color

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pencil because color pencil is so easy to bring with you. And it's, let me show you

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something more like this techniques.

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That's part of the book. Okay. I can see it. So it's the text and the illustrations merge.

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And yeah, it really feels like a, like a diary, like a travel diary with illustration. Super

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nice.

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This page is talking about tea culture in certain area in Miao Li. Miao Li is center

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of Taiwan. And this is three kinds of tea. Lei Cha and this is the Oriental beauty tea

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is also oriented from this area. And this is called Suan Gan Cha. It's a tea made inside

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of this kind of orange and you dry it and ferment it for a while. It becomes this color

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and then you pour into the hot water. It becomes like this kind of orange flavored tea. So

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this is a very special tea that from that region.

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It's also a very good example of how your storytelling works because there you illustrated

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like a fermentation process, like the evolution of the product from one state and one color

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to the other, all in the same time. It's kind of like an infographic, like the whole book.

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Yeah, yeah, yeah. That's true. And for this kind of tea, Lei Cha, it's interesting. It's

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more similar to Mo Cha, Matcha tea in Japan, I think. The same technique, but totally different

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ingredients. Just inside there are tea leaves and also all different kinds of nuts. They

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are like different nuts. So you ground it and then you pour tea inside. Then become

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like more like a soup dessert kind of tea. Tea dessert. Super nice. Yeah. And you can

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have DIY. They have like experience place for people to work on this pace. It's very,

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very difficult for me. It takes about half an hour to grind those nuts before you actually

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eat it.

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Do you have like any special, like a special story to share during your trips across all

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the cities and all these stalls?

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Yeah, definitely. I feel amazed by how different it could be for one single dish in different

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cities and different regions of ways of prepping. There's a street food called Ba Wan in Taiwan.

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I think Ba Wan is one of the most underestimated street food.

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What is it?

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It's a meatballs. It's a shape of meatballs, but covered in, it was made in sweet potato

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starch and filled with meat, pork meat. And sometimes there are bamboo shoots inside and

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in different regions, they might have a little different of the ingredients. But in different

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part of Taiwan, they are steamed Ba Wan, they are deep fried Ba Wan, they are like hand

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fried. So it makes it all different kinds of flavor.

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Yeah. You will see the same, for instance, here in Spain, you have like the potato omelet,

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you know, like the tortilla, the Spanish omelet. And wherever you go, they will do it different

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sizes, shapes. Some people add onions, some nuts, some people add pepper, some people

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add some yolk to the mixture. You know, some people fry the potatoes really dark, some

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people just poach them. You know, there are like millions of variations, but everybody

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recognize as a tortilla if you see one, you know.

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I think I tried that. Yeah, but only the one kind. I didn't try the variations. So this

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is the Ba Wan, the meatballs look like. It's like a sticky slimy texture, kind of, I don't

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know how to describe it. It's covered with this potato made starch. And inside it's meat

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and bamboo shoots. But on top of the meatballs, we also use different kinds of sauce to make

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it different. So in different region, the sauce are quite different. Like this is the

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way of making it in like a small plate and put the starch and then put the bamboo shoots

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and meat and cover. And then after they steam it, they fry it. Oh wow, that's super nice.

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Yeah. And put on the sauce. And this is a variation in the center of Taiwan, Puli. The

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way of they serving, they put a pot of broth on the table for you to pour into the bowls

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after you finish eating. This is more like a Tian Bu La, like Japanese, kind of, you

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know, when you finish eating and there's a little bit of sauce, sweet sauce, and you

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pour the soup and drink with it. So I think that's something very special kind of Taiwanese

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food. You probably couldn't find it anywhere else.

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How was the process of publishing the book? Did you self-publish? You went to publisher?

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How was this experience?

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Yeah. I worked with a publisher since they know I've been working on food illustrations

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and documenting food cultures all around different cities. And we were definitely coming to an

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idea how to, how about creating this book that talk more details about Taiwanese street

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foods. So that's, that was a common idea. And then I start to work on this process and

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I was planning on finishing in one year and took me three and a half years. So I just

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published last December. And yeah, I think it's a starting point for myself to learn

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more and deeper about Taiwanese cuisine. And this is something I think is interesting because

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the culture is always changing because of the migrants. So for instance, after the 1990s,

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there are more and more Southeast Asian migrants also moved to Taiwan to work. So there are

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Thai influences, Filipinos kind of food and Vietnamese food that are mixtures more and

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more and making Taiwanese more variations. Yeah. And this is like an ongoing process.

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And this, this migrants, you find them also in street food stalls or do they open their

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own restaurants or both things?

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Yes, they are. They opened their restaurants definitely, but you can also find like mixtures

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of the dishes. There's one dish called it's a bento, you know, Japanese bento, bento shop,

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but they sell Thai version of fried chicken on the bento. Oh, nice. And this dish are,

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you can find many, many bento shop, but if you go to Thailand, there's not such a thing.

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Just a new Thai food in Taiwan. And I think it's so funny.

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That happens a lot with migration because you have to adapt to the local customers,

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right? So you need to do adaptation. That's a, I learned a lot about Chinese food in the

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States, how the whole adaptation and creating the concept of dim sum just to, to make it

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more popular for, for American audiences. And this was exported to many other countries.

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So it's quite interesting to understand these kinds of things. I also have worked like in

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Spanish restaurants in Germany and you cook their Spanish food that you want to find in

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Spain.

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So it happens everywhere, right?

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Yeah, of course. Yeah. I think it's something natural. Yeah.

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Yeah. Because of the globalizations kind of merging to new shape.

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Yeah. Or cultural adaptation. Like the same thing you said that you have like a very specific

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type of sushi. That's kind of like the same thing, right?

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Yeah. And there's also a very famous restaurant called Bao in London. Have you heard B-A-O?

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Not really. It's a, it's a Taiwanese street food. They sell the Gua Bao, which is the

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steam version sandwich.

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Ah, yes. Of course. I know it. Yeah. Right. Yes. Yes. Yeah. I follow them. So this kind

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of sandwich is Taiwanese street food and it's very like easy, easy going. Like you can take,

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grab and go the shape is like this, right?

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And how do you call it in Taiwan? Also Bao?

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Gua Bao.

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Gua Bao. Okay. Gua Bao. Yeah. It's, it's like a pocket.

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And you just fill with pork belly, braised pork belly and cilantro, peanut powder, pickled

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radish. These are the main ingredients and the most traditional way of making this sandwich.

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However, when they open a new restaurants in different city, we also make variations

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in different kinds of flavors to make it more like welcoming in other countries. So it's,

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it's quite interesting for us to see cause we don't see these kinds of variations in

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Taiwan.

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Yeah. That's also interesting. Like when a food culture reinvent itself outside of the

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country and then they bring that back to the country.

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Yeah. And then we would feel like, wow, modern Bao. It's something that becoming popular

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right now. And I also got a client it's from Portugal. Actually they contact me, say they

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are going to open a Bao restaurant also because they love Taiwanese food. They want to open

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this Bao restaurants in Portugal. So I was working on the illustrations menu for them.

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The other thing I wanted to ask you is if, for instance, me, I I've never been to Taiwan.

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If I travel there and you have to say me, you have to try five things. These five things

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are musts that you can't leave without trying them. What would you tell me?

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Wow. Do you eat spicy food?

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Yes. I love it.

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You love spicy food? Wow. I think five.

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And also strong, strong aromas like stinky tofu and these kinds of things I really like

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as well.

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I will say you have to eat five different kinds of food a day and you have to stay at

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least 10 days.

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For instance, if you go to night market, you can just eat every stop, every stops, you

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know. So it's definitely not enough for you to try only five. But I would say, um, if

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you want to see the whole pictures of Taiwanese food culture, maybe try a little bit of Taiwan

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flavored Japanese food. It's one and maybe try some kind of variation that I mentioned

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like the Thai version of Taiwanese bento and the mixtures of all kinds of this variations.

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But definitely street foods. I think there are at least 10s, 20s, different kinds of

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things to try and definitely don't just stay in Taipei because Taipei is the capital, but

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outside of Taipei, there are also a lot of things to see.

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What places do you recommend food wise outside of Taipei, like cities or regions?

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Okay, let me show you. This is the map of Taiwan, right? And the Taipei here, I would

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recommend Jiayi. Jiayi is in the south.

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Southwest.

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Yes. And Jiayi has a lot of interesting food that is hard to find in Taipei. There's a

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kind of cold noodle, but with the mayo sauce. And this is only you can find in this area.

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And they also have like turkey rice and the fish head soup. There's also Netflix episodes

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talk about Taiwanese food. I can send you the link to see they, they introduced Jiayi

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this area quite well.

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Okay. Super nice.

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And if you want to see more differences, go to the East coast. There are a lot of indigenous

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kind of food culture. There are 16 different tribes in Taiwan, the indigenous tribes. So

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for their food culture is more like scavenger and more like hunting and wild ingredients.

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So it's also very interesting on the East coast.

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What about the mountains?

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Like here, this is a very high, the tallest mountain in Taiwan, the Yushan mountain area.

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So in this region you can buy like very good cabbage and there are so many fresh ingredients

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that were made into dishes like bamboo shoots, crusades, mushroom crusades, and also tea.

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This is the tea farm.

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Ah, nice.

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All different kinds of region. There are six different huge mountains areas that you can

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find very good tea. Yeah. So many things to see. Don't just stay one week. If you want

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to discover food in Taiwan, I recommend like stay a little bit longer before your belly

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will explode.

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That's it for this week's episode of potluck food talks. If you like what we're doing,

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make sure to subscribe to the podcast so you never miss an episode. You can also find us

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on Instagram and Tik Tok as potluck food talks. The show airs every Monday.

