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Hi everyone, welcome to Potluck Food Talks. Today we have a very special guest, Rebeca

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Perez-Geronimo. She's a publisher and we're going to talk about books. How are you, Rebeca?

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Hi, very nice to be here. Thank you for the invite. I have a lot of books around me, so

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I hope we can dig in and talk about them.

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Yeah, we were also talking about the Juju's that were recently in Venezuela and right

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now is a good moment to go because probably they're going to reactivate all the sanctions

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so this golden age that we're living right now is going to get over soon. What are your

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impressions on that?

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Yeah, it's very surreal. I actually recently started rereading A Hundred Years of Solitude,

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so Macondo and Garcia Marquez, and it reminded me so much of Latin American countries that

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are so surreal. So I've been living in Berlin for eight years and it was my first time coming

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back to Caracas. So I saw things differently from outside and when I was there I was like,

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this is so crazy. How can this be real? It's like a Macondo, of course. But yeah, I recommend

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very much traveling there right now. It was a really nice trip. Also food-wise, I got

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to reconnect a lot with my roots. So it was really nice for me to go back and cook with

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my aunts and do ayacas, arepas.

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Do you have any favorite Venezuelan food books?

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Well, the Bible, so Armando Scannone has taught me a lot because it's like a book that everyone

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had. No, like everyone had it at their homes. So I've learned a lot from that one in particular.

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Yeah, like his recipes, I know by fact that, well, his recipes, he was like this kind of,

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I will use the word aristocrat, like living in a large house and he had like this ladies

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that cooked at his house and these were actually the makers of that book.

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The cooks behind.

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Yeah, but what he did is he measured everything with precision and that's why his recipes

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are so good. So it's a great book, Mi Cocina of Armando Scannone to anyone who wants to

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get into Venezuelan cooking because the recipes just work and that's why everybody had that

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book. It's also like a really good reference. And I think that these kinds of things are

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important. I had lunch a few months ago with Narda Lepis and she was saying that everybody

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in Argentina cooks rice wrong because at some point there was some instruction somewhere

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like in a rice package that said that rice needed to be cooked like pasta, you know,

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like with lots of water and then straining it. So everybody was cooking rice like that

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because of that. That is funny. You know, so it's really important to like a good basis

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or a good reference. But at the same time, like talking to my family, like about recipes,

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because we did a Ayacas, which I don't know if you've discussed Ayacas in your podcast,

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but it's this very difficult dish that requires a lot of work. So families get together and

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they all have like their own recipe. But it's funny because I was asking them like, hi,

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give me a recipe. And it's like, they don't measure anything. Like they do have a reference

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of things, but they do not have like this scientific or methodological thing of like

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writing down and putting the numbers. So it's really difficult to get like a precision in

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the kitchen from the family. Yeah, I agree. I completely agree. You also mentioned a hundred

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years of solitude. And it's funny because when I was thinking about doing this talk

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with you and talking about books and literature and food, that's actually one of the books

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that came to my mind because there are a lot, I wouldn't say recipes, but like dishes that

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he mentions and they give like this whole layer to the book. And it's always like, yeah,

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I was making a soup and the soup had this and that, or someone cooked a soup that I

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did. And they just mentioned the main ingredients. And for some reason, I always remember soups

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with plantain in that book and a hundred years of solitude. And the other book that comes

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to my mind that has like a lot of dishes inside is Don Quixote. There has been a lot of, or

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at least a few cookbooks about Don Quixote, about the dishes in Don Quixote. And I imagine

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all these tools from Castilla and these kinds of things, you know, like from middle ages.

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Yeah. And I was, and I was waiting to document like a time and place and a way to eat. And

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I think both books do a good job at that. Yeah. I think when you start tracing back

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the histories behind dishes, like it can give you a lot of context. It's something that

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we do every day. So any detail like really tells you a lot about what's going on or yeah,

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the environment in general. So also like the way people speak about like how they cook,

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it's interesting. It's like we were discussing this thing about storytelling that I'm very

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drawn to. I studied literature. So of course, like we're discussing books. And for me, the

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story behind the recipes or the story behind what we eat is the most important thing, or

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at least one of the things that excite me the most, aside from cooking, aside from cooking

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and eating, of course. But like the reading the stories is really, really important. I

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have a lot of memoirs that are centered in food. And it's, I have a whole list that we

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can maybe like then start mentioning that we can recommend. It's in this simplicity

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and in this like very honest and intimate way of dealing with food that I am like super

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excited all the time, like with books in general.

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Yeah. But before we start, I want to mention my favorite food author. Well, I told you

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like, I just told you before the call that I started a food blog, just a few, like maybe

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two months, maybe three months. I'm publishing one article each week just to keep my pen

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sharp, you know, and it's a nice exercise because, you know, I have to, I also learned

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to make them shorter. Now I'm writing just five minute articles, just like a quick topic,

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a quick mention on something. And I think that's also better to read for anyone. So

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in the whole process of getting into food writing, because I'm also doing narrative

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on a different project, but food writing is like a different thing. It's its own thing.

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And I would say my favorite author and the most influential for sure for me has been

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when it comes to just food is MFK Fisher. And well, I discovered her on a Japanese cookbook

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and she wrote the prologue. And I remember reading this and she was describing a soup

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or yeah, I think it was a soup with some dumplings inside or something. And it really reproduced

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the experience of eating this, you know, like getting into the textures, the flavors, how

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they combine and the experience of eating it. That I had like this almost, you know,

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like sensory memory of having that dish, even though I never had it. And I was like, who

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is this? And of course I thought it was a man because MFK Fisher, you know, like you

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read that and it's who is this? And then I discovered, yeah, it was a woman, an American.

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And for me, it's the best writing I read. I have her whole work and it's something I

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get often to get a read and to see like technically how she builds the stories because also telling

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a dish like the way of eating it, you can also add the same narrative structure that

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you would add to a micro tale or something. And yeah, I understand that after I recommended

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you, you also read some books of her or got some book of her.

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Yeah, I have a couple of them and it's true what you're saying. Like this multisensorial

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way of approaching writing about food is so telling of her writing. Like she's such a

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pro in doing that. And she has inspired so many other writers in that, like, I don't

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know if it's a genre on its own. And it's truly like, it's very endearing, no? Like

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it's like very touching, as you were mentioning that she was describing a plate and then you

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felt all the aromas. And that's not easy to convey, I think, with literature. When you

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play with the senses, you have to be really good at it. And she's really good. Another

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writer that I really recommend that goes into that direction, she's alive, she's more contemporary

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and her name is Tamara Adler. She has this book, An Everlasting Meal. I found her, I

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think, after M.F.K. Fisher. That was your recommendation. And she has truly also changed

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my way of like approaching food in general. It's like these meditations about food more

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than just like describing a dish. They really go deep into like what that means. And it's

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like a philosophy in itself. I don't know, it's really inspiring because I also have

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a blog or I try to keep it up. I haven't written in a while. It's linked to my publishing house

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that is called Concordia Press, in which I also talk a lot about plants. So I'm very

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interested in this intersection between plants and cooking, cooking with plants and or fermenting

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or experimenting in general, but like more dealing with edible plants. So I also try

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to keep my pen sharp and write, but I've been working a lot. So it's a little bit dormant

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at the moment. It's not so active. But yeah, just going back to Tamara, she has been so

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inspiring and also M.F.K. Fisher just talking about the writing perspective, like models

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of people who I look up to, like I want to write like them because it's not easy. You

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have to practice a lot and eat a lot and cook a lot and be open to food.

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Yeah. Well, what I think I have like an unfair advantage is of not only being a chef, but

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I also being part of tasting panels where they train you to identify aromas and also

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a lot of tastings. You see these people that when I'm not a pro, but I've seen this, I

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get someone tasting a wine and using 20 descriptors to and you go like, yeah, yeah, exactly. Yeah,

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tobacco, leather, exactly. Blackberry. Joghurt, milk. You know what, one of the experiments

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they do when you're getting trained is they give you like a small thing to smell. And

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it's usually something really familiar. You know, I know what this is, but the words won't

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come out and it's because you're just not trained. And then it's something really obvious

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like cinnamon. I knew it, you know, like this happens all the time. But as a chef, you get

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trained to that tasting, you know, a sauce and you have to know what is missing because

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you already know the recipe. And then you saw the cardamom is missing or this kind of

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thing.

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It's good. I mean, I'm super jealous because yes, you get to train a lot and like really

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build up your vocabulary. I remember when I got COVID the first time that I lost my

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sense of smell, I found myself reading and researching about smell, which is one of the

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senses that people tend to ignore the most. And people tend to give more attention to,

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I don't know, the other senses. And with this pandemic, then there was kind of like a highlight

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on smelling, but that for chefs, I think it's like something so important because they're

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all the time like reliant so much on smelling. And in my experience, because I have a lot

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of ferments or I tend to have a lot of ferments at home, I also was like really lacking on

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like, or I was missing a lot like the fact that I could smell and really tell like, oh,

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I have to feed my scoby or I have to do this and this because I couldn't like smell things.

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But yeah, I am digressing. I was, I just wanted to say that like for regular folks that do

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not work in the kitchen or are exposed to like dealing with vocabulary of smelling,

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it's really hard. Like it's really, it's really, that's why I'm jealous of you that.

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There are like this, like what I just said, that you have this micro bottles with just

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an aroma. There are this set to train wine taste through beginners. So you get a set

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of, I don't know, 350 aromas. And it's like a game, you know, you smell it and you have

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to, and after you start doing that, you realize you're starting to use a part of your brain

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you weren't using, like associating aromas with words. And that's quite interesting.

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And then also adding of course, a layer of texture with, you know, describing how the

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texture was and, and of course the whole context and the place. But I was talking just about

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food, food, but when you go to the broader of what is food, not only the, the, the sensory

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experience of course, Anthony Bourdain. And I'm pretty sure that he has had an influence

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on my writing for sure. And the podcast, this podcast for sure, like the kind of contents

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we deliver. He was doing that in 99, you know, like, and then he's still extremely influential.

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So you had another book, you just sent me like a list of recommendations, more home

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cooking by Laura, Laurie Colwin. What can you tell us about that one?

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Yeah, Laurie Colwin, I have it around here and more home cooking. This is a really interesting

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book in a way that it's very similar to what we were talking about storytelling and so

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on. But it has a format that I really enjoyed a lot, like a hybrid of a writing book and

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a cookbook, like an essay book and a cookbook because she divides this, like it's little

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fragments of stories and each fragment ends up with a recipe.

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Okay. So it's linking perhaps a memory or perhaps an anecdote or anything that is really

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personal to her. And then at the end she gives you a recipe that is linked to that memory.

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So for me, this is like, I want to do this. And especially because I think in Spanish,

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I haven't found a writer that has something similar and I've been dealing a lot with like

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family recipes. So it's one format that I am also like looking a lot into to see if

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I do a format, something similar for a project, which is like I said, like memories and then

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recipes and the familiarity in this connection, which I'm, I think it's lovely.

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I think you would like, you know, Mugaritz, the restaurant, like one of their first books

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and they say themselves, and a lot of people say that, that it's kind of like when a band

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has their first album and all the cult fans, they say the first album is the best, you

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know, and then they became something else. That kind of happens with that book of Mugaritz

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called Chlorophyllia. And so they had like a complete different style of cooking back

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then, but every single recipe represents a herb and most of them are wild herbs. And

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then you have the recipe, which is like a Michelin star level technical recipe. But

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then there is like, I don't know how to describe it. I would describe it like as a free writing

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from this outflowers that are not chefs, but these are like, you know, fictitious anecdotes

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or almost poems and prose or just like a free writing related to the herb, not to the dish.

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So you have this story about the herb, the recipe, and that's how the book goes. And

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that back then they were doing like really interesting and creative approach to cookbooks.

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I remember another one they did, which is almost not known, but a lot of people, I think

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the name is 35 millimeters and they invited chefs from all over the world to make a recipe

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related to a scene in a movie. So I was working in a restaurant where the chef got invited.

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So I saw the whole invitation letter. They would get like the whole invitation, super

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full of, we invite you to participate in this book, blah, blah, blah, blah. Also with a

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DVD in the box, all with the branding of the book they were doing with the movie so that

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the chef could see the movie and, and you know, cook something to it. And yeah, it's

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like, you know, these kinds of books that are more conceptual, not exactly because you're

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going to use this to make a recipe, but you're just kind of like, I don't know, like a aesthetic

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experience, you know?

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I like that very much. It made me think also that it's a different type of book, but also

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these ways of dealing with recipes that are a little bit more alternative to having like

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a list of ingredients and instructions. And I'm talking about Nigel Slater, that he has

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so many, so many books and he's so prolific. He has so much writing published and his recipes

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are just long stories. Like when you see the books, it's just like a big paragraph, three

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pages and then at the end, a list of ingredients, you know? And I learned a lot more from that

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way of cooking, like that way of like, I don't know, presenting cookbooks. I'm not a trained

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chef. I wish I was. I'm just very curious about cooking. I cook a lot. I love it. And

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I learned a lot from cookbooks like that one, like the ones that present you recipes in

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a way that you can experiment yourself. And that's why, for example, Tamara Adler taught

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me a lot because it's like, she says things like, oh, when you salt things, you have to

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salt with your hands. So you get used to the feeling of like how much salt you need for

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things. Like when you say, oh, this is a pinch or this is, I don't know. And those are like

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simple things that when you're a trained chef and you have to practice and do a lot of things

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that I don't do in my kitchen, it's really helpful, you know, because it gives you a

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lot of liberty and also a room for experimentation and not feeling like you have to stick to

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one recipe to make it work, you know? That I think a lot of people approach the cookbook

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like, oh, if I change this, then it's going to taste bad or it's going to be horrible.

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It's not going to work out. No, it's like, you can always do some tweaks and trust yourself

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on like what you're smelling, what you're like tasting, especially that, not like you

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taste things. People sometimes don't taste things while they cook.

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No, of course. And that's also, it's also a way to develop your own palette and have

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fun while cooking and understanding what you like and what you don't. It's funny because

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professional recipes are exactly the opposite. They're just the list of ingredients and then

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the steps super straightforward. Like 80 degrees, half the time, let it rest, done.

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You know, just four words and that's, that's the recipe.

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That's why I'm not a chef. It's not my style.

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So another one I have here from the Les Jus and Mes, Crying in H Mart by Michelle Sauner.

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Yes. So this is also a memoir book and it's a very heartbreaking story about how one daughter

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connects to her mother when she gets sick and they connect through food. So they're

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Korean and the daughter is Korean American. So she starts getting to know the food from

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Korea cooking for her mom. Like she connects with her mom after having a very difficult

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relationship. And it goes like the story is just like this passage of like connecting

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daughter mother and then the mother dies. And like at least she lives with this beautiful

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connection to her through cooking. So it's really nice because also a lot of things that

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I didn't know about Korean food, especially like what I liked the most also is like how

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food can be medicine somehow. The type of food that you eat when you're sick, the type

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of food that you eat when you're feeling that way or another is so embedded in what she's

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telling. And I really like her. She's also a musician. Actually, she's the lead singer

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of Japanese Breakfast, which is an amazing title for a band. So I also like the fact

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that she's coming from another place. Like I like hybrid things and like really things

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that come together from different angles. So I think that also was something that interests

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me a lot about this book. I really recommend.

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Like a super classic, I would say when it comes to food literature or narrative that

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involved food, I would say is Laura's Kibels. How's her name? For water and chocolate.

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Yeah, yeah. But I was in Spanish. I remember the most. Yeah. I remember reading that as

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a kid, actually. And then never again. And also the movie, I remember it was a super nice movie.

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Yeah. Like like this traditional Mexican cooking in a huge house. And there were a lot of super

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interesting recipes and all with this layer of magic realism that you will find in a lot

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of Latin American literature. Always, always, always in reality. Latin American reality

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as well. Yeah. Another book that is also, I think I didn't mention it in the list, but

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it's also really a catch. I think it was published in 2022 is by Rebecca Mae Johnson and it's

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called Small Fires. And it's about recipes in the way that like how she presents the

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book is that she repeats one recipe for, I don't know how many hundred times. So she's

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all the time talking about the same recipe, but also reflecting on what is a recipe and

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how does a recipe behave in different contexts with different people. And I'm curious to

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pick your brain on it. That's super interesting. Yeah. Because I mean, you as a chef, like

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you have to repeat something and you're striving for consistency, you know? Like you have to

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make it like as consistent as possible because you're working. No, but yes you do. But in

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restaurants, recipes have an evolution. Like if you see in a restaurant, like a recipe

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at the beginning of the year and at the end of the year, the recipe has changed because

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it has been optimized hopefully for best, you know? But you also get to see them changing

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for worse. You know, like, oh no, no, no, we're skipping this step because you know,

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like actually you always want to simplify as much as possible. And especially in a restaurant,

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you know, you don't want to make steps you could save or do things that don't have anything

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unless there is a reason for it or unless you are a very, you know, obsessive chef that

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wants like super, you know, like complex technique. But also I remember this chef, he has a super

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nice book also, Tetsuya Wakuda. He's like a Japanese Australian. He used to be very

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big 15 years ago. I think he still has a restaurant, but he used to be like regarded as one of

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the best chefs in the world back then in the 2000s, not anymore. But yeah, he would talk

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about serving the same dish for 20 years, the same, same dish. One of his classics,

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it was a wild salmon, but that it would evolve through time, that it was not the same dish

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anymore, you know, like that's also interesting. I love this idea of this transformation in

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recipes. I do a workshop that I've been doing for several years now that is called Fermentation

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as a Metaphor. It's inspired by a book of Sandra Elick's cuts that is called The Same

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Fermentation as Metaphor. And I do this, like it's fermentation and writing. I chose to

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work with the sauerkraut because I think it's one of the easiest ferments more like there,

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I don't know, it's a generous ferment because it's really hard to get it wrong. So I usually

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do these workshops in very short periods of time in which we work on a sauerkraut together.

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I teach the people like the basics of fermenting and then we write a text that is based on

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this experience of doing sauerkraut. So I invite people to observe their own sauerkraut

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through, I don't know, a period of like two weeks and then smell it and see how it behaves

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and the bubbles that arises and all of these things.

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Name it, very important.

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Yes, name it, give it a name, all of that. So it's funny because the idea with it is

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that from the basis of the first exercise that we do, which is making this sauerkraut,

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we all have the same ingredients, but each sauerkraut will be different, of course. And

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then also the writing will be different even though we're like starting from the base,

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the base is the same. So it's the same ingredients and also like the same exercise they all have

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to do. So I've been repeating this workshop for a long time now and I used to say to myself

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out, maybe I'll get bored because it's like doing the same over and over again. But I

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see how it's been transforming and all the stories that come with it is so much fun because

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like people are like, their minds are just wonderful. I've had like many, many beautiful

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encounters in which like, yeah, it's like you're doing the same and you're using the

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same, but it's always so different. And I really like that. I don't know if you have

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felt anything like that with recipes or with any type of like, I don't know, special play

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that you repeat often.

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I can recall like having a special relationship. No, actually a super common question that

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anybody who is a chef gets asked all the time. And at least I don't have an answer. What

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is your specialty? And I'm like, well, I don't have anything. I just do things, you know,

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like most of the time if I'm cooking at home, most of the time I'm freestyling. It's very

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rarely I will be following a recipe because I just want to have fun, you know, like because

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I have the technical knowledge. Otherwise I would be worried from doing something wrong.

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You mentioned Sandor Katz. I met him. I went, I went having pinches and beers with him here

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in San Sebastian. Amazing guy. He's incredible. And I was at a workshop with him. He was doing

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sauerkraut as well. And I really, really recommend his book, The Art of Fermentation. Of course,

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a Bible. It's an amazing book. And it's funny because my friends that are really fermentation

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freaks like Diego Prado, when we were talking about that book, of course he likes a book,

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but he's like, yeah, it's super nice, but it's a novel. He's more like technical books,

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you know, like this was like too narrative. But yeah, it's nice to read a novel on fermentation

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and the different approaches and techniques and, and the stories behind it. Well, of course

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you see my tendency. So I'm more into storytelling. So I see that book, The Art of Fermentation,

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and it's like, wow, this is so cool because it's like, he's telling you a whole story

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about where he learned to do this or that. And then in the middle you have the technique,

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no? So that's, I really admire him a lot. If he's been a huge reference for me, especially

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because he blends these topics that we're talking about, like this storytelling is super

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important to him, but he's also very, like when you're dealing with that amount of like,

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I don't know, fermentation knowledge, you do have to get technical. You cannot improvise

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that much at some point. Yeah. It's a lot of information in that book for sure. A lot,

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a lot. So cool that you met him. Yeah. The other book that I really liked, I don't know

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if you know this one, The Third Plate by Dan Barber. Yes, I have it here. Because that's

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a chef and also storytelling and it talks a lot about food systems and also like kind

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of like a journalist approach about specific chefs and producers and the story and everything.

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And yeah, I think it's, it's quite cool. It's a super good read for sure. Yeah. I think

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it has also this political view of food and he's working from his, so his baseline is

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restaurants, no? And it gets really political. I really liked that. It made me think on one

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of the books that I send you by Alice Waters, Coming to My Senses. And it's this memoir

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about like her developing Japanese and all of the political struggles as well in between

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and why she decided to go to, to choose this path. Because when she started, there was

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not like this concept of farm to table or not as she started developing, at least that

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I know of. That's something I could read because I, I'm a big fan of Alice Waters and she's

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hugely influential in all the restaurant movement, especially in the West coast and the United

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States. But I've never read one of her books. I've read articles, opinions, quotes, these

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kinds of things, you know, recipes, but never one of her books. So this might be something

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I could get. You know, I'm not reading from a few years on. I've been just listening to

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audiobooks because it's my way of consuming books. Like I get the audiobooks and I go

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for a walk, you know, it's better than being laying on the couch. So I do two things at

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a time. And it's a different way to consume the same content. And yeah, I'm thinking especially

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with long books, I do that. Yeah. Because I rather having walks, uh, some, some, you

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know, like a long novel can last like 30 hours of audiobook.

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It's also very useful now because we're on the go a lot. So yeah, it's true that with

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books you have to have a pause from all these movements in which we're involved to an everyday

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basis. And it made me think like, uh, I was curious because, um, I really like podcasts

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about food in general. So I appreciate the work you're doing because it's really fun.

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Also like it's really meditative for me when people actually explain recipes, it's really

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interesting. I don't know. It's like, uh, I've been listening to a few podcasts that

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they just like talk about recipes and it's funny because when people are linking to the

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storytelling, they're telling you about the food is really soothing for me.

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Yeah, I guess it's like, I once heard from a TV chef, he was saying that some study proved

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that 99% of the people that watch TV shows don't cook the recipes. You know, like they

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just enjoy watching the cooking. It's like a way of entertaining in itself.

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That's it for this week's episode of potluck food talks. If you like what we're doing,

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make sure to subscribe to the podcast so you never miss an episode. You can also find us

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on Instagram and Tik Tok as potluck food talks. The show airs every Monday.

