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Hi everyone.

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Welcome to Pot Luck Food Talks.

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Today we have a special guest, John Reggevald.

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He's a chef with a long track record.

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He's from Sweden, but he has worked for many years in Italy and for the last years in the

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Basque Country.

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And he's calling us from the Paris airport.

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How are you, John?

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I'm fine.

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Thank you very much.

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Thank you very much for having me, Eric.

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It's a pleasure.

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Yeah, I just landed in Paris from Lebanon, actually, where I've been doing some work

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on a project we're doing right now.

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Nice, nice.

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So today the topic is new Nordic cuisine.

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And I wanted to talk with you about this because I know you've been lecturing about this at

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Basque Culinary Center and also you're Swedish.

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So first of all, how would you define new Nordic cuisine?

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Why is it?

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What is it?

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And why is it important?

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Well, I would say new Nordic cuisine is probably important because of the effect that it has

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had like in the in the rear view mirror.

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I would say we've been talking about new Nordic cuisine now for basically 20 years.

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And I would really say I at least notice it has had a big effect on other contemporary

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cuisines from around the world.

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So that's why I'm saying in the rear view mirror, I think it has been a really, really

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important stepping stone as a contemporary cuisine.

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And it actually, I mean, it started back in the early 2000s.

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And I would say that it's kind of characterized by minimalist presentations, but also this

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search for kind of going back to the roots and the original flavors of the territory,

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even though you might use innovative techniques in the kitchen, but still the focus is always

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kind of on the ingredients.

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And I would almost say kind of it's a reinvention or adaptation of a cuisine based on preservation

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techniques.

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That's usually what I tell my students as well.

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We have a lot of preservation techniques, of course, in the Nordic countries as anywhere

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around the world, but very, very focused on a lot of fermentation, a lot of pickling and

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smoking and drying and so on.

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So of course, there's a lot of techniques, traditional ones that you can use even in

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a contemporary cuisine.

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But I would say the new Nordic cuisine is a little bit different in that way.

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Instead of taking traditional recipes and giving them kind of a twist, you know, which

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might be the first approach, the first easiest approach, take a traditional recipe, give

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it a modern twist and you're good to go.

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Instead, what I see happened in the new Nordic cuisine was an exploration of the ingredients

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themselves as a starting point for innovation instead of starting from a ready-made recipe

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from our grandfathers or grandmothers or whatever, you know.

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Which is what happened in the new Basque cuisine, that they wanted to take recipes from grandmothers

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and bring them to high-end restaurants.

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Well, correct me if I'm wrong, my way to define, so to say, a new Nordic cuisine, I would say,

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is a movement where the focus was towards not only, well, you mentioned ingredients,

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but to be more specific, local ingredients that weren't as valorized as before, if I

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understand correctly.

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As it happened in many countries, high-end restaurants in the Nordic countries were more

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looking to France and to Europe instead of looking inwards.

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This was kind of the inflection point, is that correct, more or less?

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I totally agree with you there.

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I mean, in the Nordic countries, we had the same, you know, French cuisine movement, French

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cuisine-influenced movement during the 70s, 80s, 90s.

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So this was kind of a counteraction almost to create something really new but really

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local.

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So not importing ingredients from France, not basing ourselves on French technique,

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but looking into our own terroir, into our own countries and seeing what ingredients

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do we have.

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Maybe even ingredients that we used to use back in the days, like hundreds of years ago,

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but had been forgotten or ingredients that you actually have to go out and search for

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yourself and forage because you can't find them in the supermarket, you know.

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So it was a way to differentiate yourself from other regions and really look into what

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do we have in our landscape, in our forests.

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Where is the differential?

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What is unique from here?

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Was there a starting point, same as in the new, or are there like grandfathers of the

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new Nordic cuisine?

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In my perception, I would say, Bobec was doing new Nordic before new Nordic was a thing,

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or I don't know, was there someone else?

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It's quite funny, this new Nordic cuisine, because there's really like, there's really

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a point, there's really a kind of a date where a group of chefs sat down around the table

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and they agreed upon a new set of rules for what they were calling the new Nordic cuisine.

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So there's actually a very clear starting date for this.

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But of course, there were people doing stuff like this beforehand as well.

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I mean, I remember one of my first memories of when I was really surprised by someone

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doing things differently back in the 90s, it was the chef Magnus E from a restaurant

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Oaxen in Sweden.

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And he was doing what I would say would fit perfectly into the new Nordic cuisine way

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before it was even defined and written on a paper.

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So we're talking mid 90s, and he really created his own local cuisine, naturally delimited

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by space because he was on an island, he was on the Oaxen island, and he was using ingredients

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from that same island.

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So it was very, very logic for him to have a very, very local approach to ingredients,

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a lot of foraging, a lot of using what was available on the island.

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But also he was very focused on using traditional old Nordic cooking techniques, preservation

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techniques.

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So that's, Bobek is another example of people doing things before new Nordic cuisine was

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defined.

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But for me, I think Magnus Eck was probably the first one where I really thought like,

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wow, this guy is really doing something different when all the other ones are still in kind

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of a French Nordic cuisine.

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And would you say, what would you read your top list of strongest exponents?

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I don't know, Cox come to my mind, maybe Faviken, Noma.

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How would you build like a top five list in your opinion?

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Yeah, I would say, of course, I mean, everyone knows René Recepio of Noma.

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I would say a little bit later as well, Magnus Nielsen of Faviken, Espen, Holmer Bann of

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Maemo, of course.

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I think Magnus, no, sorry, sorry, Matthias Dahlgren as well in Sweden was doing, he was

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doing kind of a, in the 90s, Southern Europe inspired kitchen.

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But he pivoted to a really, really Nordic cuisine in a very natural way, which also I

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find was very interesting.

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As I said before, of course, Magnus Eck of Aarxen and maybe even Klaus Meyer.

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He's not really the chef that the other ones are that we've been mentioning, but he's more

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of an entrepreneur and he was one of the persons that really got the snowball rolling on this

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whole new Nordic cuisine actually.

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So we talked about Noma.

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I think it's worth to make like a special mention on what did Noma that was so great,

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how did it became the best restaurant and the most influential in the world.

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I remember the first time I heard about Noma, I was working at Mugaritz back in 2005.

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I heard about this place and one of the first things they said, it was that they weren't

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using olive oil and chocolate because it was not a local produce.

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And for me, this was so counter-intuitive for a restaurant in Europe, you know, no chocolate

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and not olive oil.

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So this really opened my mind to see what are these guys doing in Denmark?

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Well, you've been there eating a couple of times, right?

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You actually worked there.

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Yes, I did as well.

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So yeah, I kind of, yeah, I understand what you're saying.

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Of course, the whole fact of just looking for the most local ingredients, which is a

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little bit actually in the case of Noma, Noma, yeah, they talk about ingredients from the

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Nordic region, of course, but if we look at a map, the Nordic region is huge because also

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the sourcing at Noma was anything from Denmark, of course, which I would say is quite local,

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but all the way to Iceland, to Greenland.

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So geographically, Noma was sourcing from a huge area.

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But more, I mean, more than just geographically, we're talking about an area that has a climate

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that's very similar.

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So it's more about the kind of products that you can find in these countries, the kind

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of climates, the kind of preservation techniques, cooking techniques, the flavors that bringing

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those ingredients and those cooking techniques together, the kind of flavor that it creates.

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So that's why even though, I mean, we're talking about kind of locally sourced, but the Nordic

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region is huge.

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So it's a little bit kind of counterintuitive talking about local ingredients and then sourcing

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from the whole Nordic area.

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But it's, I would say what Noma did differently was just being very, very, very decided on

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using only ingredients from that area and finding a way because it would be so easy

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to just like fall back on the ingredients that you know would work imported from other

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places.

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But being just so firm in the philosophy, I think that's one of the main reasons Noma

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became what it became.

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Yeah, I can't think of anyone who did that before because for instance, it comes Santi

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Santamaria to mind at Trancotecan Palace in Catalonia.

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He was doing like a very comparable thing in his restaurant, but he would source ingredients

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from all over Europe.

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And I know that because I worked there.

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But I mean, he was also like sourcing local products that weren't being used anymore.

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So and also another thing from Noma, I think they redefined the concept of what an ingredient

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is, like using whey or different types of grasses or things that you wouldn't normally

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cook with.

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Exactly.

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Yeah, ingredients that maybe up until that point were considered either just plants,

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just plants, like something you see in the forest or in the park, or things that you

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would consider animal feed, maybe like hay or something like that.

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And then they made it actually into an ingredient, you know?

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Yeah, or things that nobody would dare serving in a restaurant like, I don't know, bear heart

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or things like that.

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Exactly, exactly.

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Yeah, but the sense of redefining what an ingredient is, Nordic food labs come to mind.

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I remember one of the researchers from Nordic food lab saying once, everything is an ingredient.

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Whatever you see in the forest, you could transform it some way into something edible.

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Yeah, no, absolutely.

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I totally agree.

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As long as an ingredient isn't toxic for a human being, it has all the potential in the

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world to be an ingredient in a dish, definitely.

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You have been Swedish and having eaten in so many of these places also worked.

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What would you say are memorable dishes that are really representative of the Nordic cuisine

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movement?

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Well, let's see.

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Memorable dishes, yeah, there are of course.

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No, what are those?

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Memorable dishes, yeah, there are probably too many to list them all.

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But what comes up now like that, I would say Nomaz pickled vegetable dish with bone marrow

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and pork jus is one of those dishes that really struck me as well as a unique dish in a way

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that because it changes every day.

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So it's a dish that has a base of pickled vegetables, six different pickled vegetables,

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smoked bone marrow and pork jus.

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But half of the dish was this actually like the garnishes, the flavors coming from foraged

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herbs, from flowers.

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That part of the dish changed every day based on the season, based on what flowers were

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blooming that day or what fresh little herbs could we get that day.

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So that was definitely, I would say, a signature dish of Noma.

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But then also moving on to dishes where Noma started incorporating ants into the dishes,

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which is probably also like a kind of groundbreaking moment in the new Nordic cuisine serving,

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for example, ants on a tartare, on a beef tartare, something that had never really been

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seen before in the region, actually.

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And Maemo as well, very well-known restaurant in Oslo.

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Langerstein cooked with spruce is one of their really super famous dishes, I would say.

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Or fettik in the northern part of Sweden, which they did because they're closed by now.

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A scallop cooked over juniper branches.

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So there are a few dishes that I could think of right now.

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I can think, if I think about new Nordic cuisine, I would also think of subcategories like the

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more sea-oriented, more forest-oriented, grill-oriented.

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And this brings me to this time and place, which is also like a big statement inside

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the new Nordic.

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What would you say time and place is in this context?

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So time and place is basically one of the first concepts that Noma came up with when

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they started the restaurant and when they really focused on the local cuisine and the

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traditions from the Nordic country.

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So time and place was basically a wish for, that they wanted the client, they wanted the

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people that sat down at the table to be able to, just by them eating there, just by looking

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around, just by the atmosphere, understanding what time of the year it was and in which

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place of the world they were actually seated in the restaurant.

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So they wanted the menu to be that unique over the course of the year, right?

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During the different seasons that you would actually be able to notice through the dishes

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that now it's summer or now it's autumn, now there's a lot of game meat and mushrooms on

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the plate.

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So of course it's autumn.

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So that was kind of the original thought with the concept of time and place.

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Could you think of any chef that are perhaps less recognized, that deserve more recognition,

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that are really representative of the New Nordic Cuisine movement that you would recommend?

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You actually mentioned before the grilling as a technique, right?

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As a concept.

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And there's an interesting chef that has a restaurant in Stockholm that is totally focused

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on everything that has to do with wood-fired cooking.

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So this is Niklas Ekstedt of restaurant Ekstedt in Stockholm.

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And his restaurant, he doesn't have any electrical devices in his kitchen.

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It's totally wood-fired.

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So all the techniques are like grilling or slow grilling or smoking or drying with smoke

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and so on.

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And I think it's really interesting.

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He's done a lot of interesting work for kind of revitalizing ancient cooking methods like

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that.

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Do you actually know the head chef of Ekstedt because I worked with her at Campalas.

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She's an Argentinian.

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Oh yeah, that's true.

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That's true.

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Yeah, Florencia.

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She's a super badass chef.

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What else?

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I would probably name drop a few more.

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Maybe Sasu Larkanon in Helsinki as well.

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There's a lady called Heidi Björkan in Trondheim in Norway who has a restaurant called Credo.

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So extremely very nice local cuisine, does a lot of sustainability work as well.

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So she's definitely interesting to check out in the southern part of Sweden.

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I would say Daniel Berlin, also a name that might not be as well known as the other ones,

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but definitely interesting to check out.

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And abroad, is there anyone doing Nordic cuisine?

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I know that Charles Mayer opened a restaurant in New York and also that Aquavit that is

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a super old Swedish restaurant in New York that used to be run by Marcus Samuelsson,

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now pivoted into like a new Nordic thing.

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Can you come up with any other examples?

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Yeah, it's true.

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Aquavit was the Swedish, like really kind of traditional restaurant in New York, even

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back in the 90s.

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And they've also pivoted to a more modern, more contemporary Nordic cuisine.

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Another one in New York is Aska, which is definitely more towards a new Nordic style

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of cuisine.

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I think those would be the examples right now.

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What do you think about that?

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Does it lose the whole concept of ultra local cuisine doing it in New York or abroad?

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Or what is your opinion on that?

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Actually, I mean, traveling around the world as well, and now during the last years, of

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course, after this big influence of the New Nordic cuisine, I've seen a lot of chefs and

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restaurants around the world copying sometimes even straight off dishes from the New Nordic

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cuisine.

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And I think that's the wrong approach of doing it.

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Of course, they can still be very good, amazing dishes, but it's not linked to your territory.

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If you're in Latin America or you're in Asia or any other place, it's not really you only

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get half the experience.

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So I think much more than copying a dish straight off.

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What we could do and what we should do is be inspired by the concept and what we've

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been talking about the basis of the New Nordic cuisine, right?

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Going back to the ingredient stage, looking at the ingredient, exploring, analyzing the

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ingredient and take it from there and do that on a local level.

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So go with your own ingredients.

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Then you can apply as many techniques from the New Nordic cuisine as you wish or just

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think about the concept, right?

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But use it on your own ingredients.

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I think that's so much more interesting than just copying a dish straight off.

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Okay.

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My last question is, first of all, is the New Nordic cuisine still alive?

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And since the Kingdom of Ferran Adria in the mid 2000s until now, I think it has made the

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dominating trend in the high end.

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Is there still a new trend?

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What can you tell us about that?

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I would say it's very much still alive.

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What I see that kind of the transition have been lately is that what might have started

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off as a high end, a little bit exclusive cuisine during the first years of the New

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Nordic cuisine has kind of trickled down to a very, very normal restaurant, like your

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neighborhood restaurant level.

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So actually I would say in the Nordic countries, it has inspired a lot of chefs that are not

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doing both cuisine or high end exclusive cuisine, but actually chefs in restaurants where anyone

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of us could go any day.

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And I think that's probably the most positive effect that I've seen for me personally.

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And also it has brought a lot of awareness in general to the general public of what are

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traditions, what our traditions are, what our ingredients look like, what our territory

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like looks like, what foraging is.

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There are so many aspects that really, I would say it has brought an awareness to normal

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people that are not working or are not active in gastronomy.

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I would say that's probably the most, the biggest effect it has had.

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But for me, it's very, very much still alive.

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I mean, there's so many combinations, there's so many ingredients that you can still explore,

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you can use with any combination of techniques.

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So it's kind of never ending.

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You just have to keep going and let there be an evolution to the New Nordic cuisine

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as well.

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That's it for this week's episode of Potluck Food Talks.

