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Hi everyone, welcome to potluck food talks. Today we're going to talk about fish. So what's

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the deal about fish, Phil?

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I love cooking with fish. Fish is one of those like noble ingredients, no? There's something

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about it where it's like, I think it's really easy to fuck it up. But like, if you get it

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right, it's like, I feel like it's one of those things that like very few places get

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it right. It's like, some people they get it to a state where it's like, it's all right,

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it's okay, it's not completely cooked to shit. But there's really few places that really

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nail fish cooking.

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No, and this is the reason I've noticed that like in high end restaurants, always fish

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is like a big deal, you know, that there is like a specific supplier. And sometimes everything

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comes at the same time and people goes crazy like cleaning fish and packing it and whatever

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processing it just at the moment when it arrives because the cold chain is so critical and

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that there are so many aspects that people have to take care of. And if you do everything

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right but the product is not good, you wasted your time anyway. So there are like many,

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many indicators to get a right fish on a plate.

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Yeah, absolutely. Totally. It's like sourcing is super, super important. I mean, even more

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so than with meat, you know, and then also like the attention to detail in the execution,

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you know, and also kind of just a general understanding, you know, like of what's happening

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because it's not like you can just press on it and feel like oh, this is medium, this

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is medium. Well, it doesn't work with fish. So, you know, like Fergus Henderson from St.

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John restaurant, you know, at one point he said, good chefs have to use their Jedi senses,

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you know, as in sort of like feeling what is happening. And I think that's really true

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with fish that you kind of have to, you just have to cook it a lot and handle it a lot

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and just have a feeling for what's going on when you're preparing it.

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Right, like they're developing an intuition to know when it's right, when it's done, what's

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the point because you kind of have to guess like, okay, I know this is okay, because I've

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done this many times, but I can prove it, you know, like I won't like stick a thermometer

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into the center of the fish or something like that.

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Yeah. And it's like, I feel like either people go, people either overcook it, or they really

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focus on this idea of it has to be glazy in the center, you know, like a little bit raw.

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And then they overdo that. So then you end up with a fish that has this like raw gelatinous

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center in the middle. And then you cut it open, you see that it's like a little bit

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shiny and glazy in the center. And people think like, oh yeah, look at me, I cooked

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this really, really well. But actually it's like, no, you didn't cook it enough. Like

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it's about cooking it just enough, you know, like oxing out this, this moment where it's

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just cooked enough. And then anything after that is overcooked.

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I love this Basque technique of grilled fish where they, they cut it in butterfly and grill

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it on one side, just one side. So the, the upper side is usually still raw, but just,

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just a little bit, you know, just a little push to get done. So what people do here is

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they bring olive oil to a high temperature with slices of garlic and a little bit of

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chili and they pour that on top, which is a technique that I have seen in Japanese cuisine

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mainly, like doing this with carpaccio, but it's a tradition here. Sometimes they also

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add like a splash of vinegar to this. So it's kind of like a super hot dressing that they

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pour on top. And this is, you won't see a place where, where they do it wrong because

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it's actually a pretty safe technique, you know, to get the, the, the proper cooking

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point without having to think too much. It's kind of safe, you know, like to do it this

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way. Yeah, definitely. And just like cutting this

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like garlicky oil with like this, like white vinegar makes this super, super delicious

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dressing, especially often then when the fish often like it's also doused on the fish as

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it's grilling, you know, exactly. Yeah. They brush it on top. Yeah. And then depending

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on the fish often, you know, the, this dressing will kind of like seep onto the plate and

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the gelatin from the fish will kind of like get released with it. And then, you know,

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like sometimes in very specific places, you see them kind of mixing up these like gelatinous

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juices with that dressing and emulsifying them at the table and then dressing the fish

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again next to the table with it. That's so crazy. Yeah. I've seen that. And that's super

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unique. And if you haven't experienced it, it's, it's a really crazy thing because it

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changes your, like, it really changes the, I hate this word, but it changes the mouth

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feel of the fish. You really have to sort of like lip smacking kind of sticky sort of

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tasty fish sensation when you're eating the fish. Super nice. Yeah. Like I've been to

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Elcano a couple of times and this also happens, like, you know, the maître comes to the table

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and explains all the different parts of the fish and how it behaves in the sea and why

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the, how the different parts taste together while he's doing exactly what you just said,

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like emulsifying the sauce with the collagen of the fish and, and pouring it on top. So

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it's like a super amazing experience. Yeah, totally. I mean, the understanding that they

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have at Elcano is crazy about also, you know, the flatfish are sort of like, which side

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is facing the sun, which side is facing the ground of the ocean with the different colors,

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you know, and like what parts of the fish work more kind of like how you would think

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of like a cow, you know, sort of like, oh, this muscle moves a lot. So it's a lot tougher

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and this muscle doesn't move a lot. So it's got more fat marbling and nobody really thinks

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of fish like that. And, but they do, you know, and it makes total sense that different parts

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of the fish, especially when you have a big fish, like a turbot, they are different, you

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know, they have a different texture, they have a different amount of, you know, like

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fiber and gelatin and dust, those sorts of things as super, super interesting approach.

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Like a crazy, if we talk about fish, I would say the craziest techniques, the most sophisticated

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and complex that you can find are in Japan and you work in Japan. Let's talk about Ikejime

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because that's a crazy technique to explain. I'll say the way I understand it and then

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you can like talk on that. Like the way I understand it is that you first catch the

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fish alive and you hit it in the head so it gets a little bit dumb. And at that point

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you put like, kind of like a super fine nail through its, how do you say it, its spine

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cord? Spine, yeah. Yeah, exactly. To give it like a proper that so the muscles loosen,

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something like that. Yeah, yeah, exactly. So I mean, there's just different ways of

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doing it. There's one way where you have this like little book that kind of looks like a

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fishing book on like a stick and you kind of like insert that at a spot behind the eye

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so that you kind of like go right into the brain. So you instantly kill the fish. It

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sounds very brutal, very gruesome, but actually it's very humane because it instantly kills

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the fish, right? Instead of in, you know, not so well practiced fishing habits where

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the fish just kind of like gets thrown into the deck and suffocates and it's like flopping

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around and kind of stressing itself out and also damaging itself, you know, or like, you

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know, fish that just kind of get whacked over the head. And so it's like they get hematomes

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and also a lot of stress and is released into the muscles of the fish, you know, which is

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the fillets. And all of that affects the taste and just, you know, before we go on and talk

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about Ikejime, you know, like I think that's like one of the main things is the blood in

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the fish, you know, the like blood is the thing that makes fish taste of an irony and

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fishy, you know? So basically you don't want any blood. You don't want any hematomes. You

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don't want any punctures and you want to get the blood out of the fish as quickly as possible.

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Because it's going to be used for sashimi. That's the reason you don't want to see red

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dots in your sashimi. Exactly. Because if you eat it raw, all those like off tastes

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are really, really apparent. So like you said, you know, the fish gets killed and then two

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incisions are made where basically the neck is just behind the gills at the spine and

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at the tail. Incisions that cut through the spine, but not all the way through the fish.

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And then a very long needle is inserted into the spine that break and so, you know, from

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the neck down to the tail. And then it's kind of like move back and forth to make sure to

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destroy and cap all of those nerves. And what that does is that the fish is immediately

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completely nerve dead and the rigor mortis doesn't set in. So rigor mortis is, as most

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people will know, the tensing of the muscles after something has died. It happens in most

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animals, you know, in fish, in mammals and everything, you know, when you die, you have

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this like stiffness and that doesn't happen because you cap the nerves. So that is one

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part that's very important. But then the other part of Ikejima that's really important is

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that then after that is done, the fish gets put into an ice bath for a certain amount

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of time. Now this has the effect that the blood gets to circulate out of the fish through

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the spine. So it kind of bleeds out through the tail and through the neck into the water.

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And then afterwards you take the fish out, you dry it and you prepare it as it would,

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you know, the result that you get from that is a very clean, firm, like almost sparkling

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piece of fish, you know, that has a completely different texture, a super, super clean taste

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and visually is also very pure, you know, it's just very, very pure. It just makes,

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it gives you like a 10 time better quality of fish if done right.

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It also comes to my mind, I would say like an old school French chef would say that you

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don't want to eat your fish super fresh, like freshly killed from the day. Like you would

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prefer to wait like two days. So the meat dressings, isn't that like a contradiction

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with Japanese and French or these are different approaches for different things or what's

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your thought on that?

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So I mean, the way that I've seen it is that, and the way that I do it myself also is that

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it really depends on the fish that you have. Obviously some fish are leaner, some fish

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are fattier and I mean, keeping with the example of Japan, when I was in Japan, we would age

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different fish for a different amount of time. Some fish we would, you know, kill on the

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day and use them and some fish we would deliberately leave to dry for a couple of days. Obviously

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just like with dry aging, you know, like when you dry something, the moisture from the flesh

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kind of like evaporates and everything else that's there, the fat and you know, everything

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else gets more and more concentrated. With things like a turbot, for example, and also

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like especially if you want to grill a fish, it's really beneficial if you age it a little

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bit because the skin dries out really nicely. There's no residual, because the flesh also

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absorbs water. That's also why it's kind of counterintuitive to put this fish in water

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to bleed out for five minutes because like the way that I learned in Western cooking

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is that you don't want fish to touch water ever. You want it to wash it as quickly as

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possible, but you don't want to keep the fish lying in water because it'll just soak it

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up, right? But because the fish is still whole, when you do that, it's kind of okay because

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the actual fillets of the fish, they don't touch the water and then yeah, drying it out,

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that's that. Also for the skin, when you have, for example, your example of butterflying

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fish, if you have a sea bream and you butterfly it and you leave it open in the fridge with

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the skin, just like the flesh touching, whatever you have it on, the tray, the plate, whatever,

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and the skin being open, it dries out and then when you grill it, it gets super, super

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crispy, like shattering crispy. And obviously the flavor of the fish gets more intensive.

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But also in Japan, what we would do often is that we would take fillets of fish and

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to draw out that moisture even quicker, we would really lightly salt it and leave it

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for a couple of hours and then really quickly wash it off. So it's like a very quick dry

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brine. Really quickly wash it off, pat it dry. Yeah, I wanted to talk about brines and salt

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as well because that's something, also something about fish that you do with fish that you

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would never do with meat, like pre-salting or making quick brines to have a proper amount

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of salt, like completely, how to say, standardized for large batches. Let's say for an event

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of 100 people, you want to do something like that, you know? So you're sure that all the

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salt is okay for the 150 or whatever pieces that you're going to cook that day, which

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is something nobody would ever do with meat, you know? I think that salt is also super

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relevant to talk about how to use it and what to do and not to do. Yeah, absolutely. And

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I mean, even for the, we were even doing it for things like sashimi, you know? It's like,

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it really depends on the size and the fat content and you know, what you really want

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from that fish. You know, some fish you want to leave completely untouched and just clean

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it nicely. You always want to have it dry. You know, you don't want the fish to be sitting

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in its excess liquid. But yeah, some pieces we would salt and then wash again, you know,

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and then pat dry. And it would change, really change the texture, make it really meaty and

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tender. And I think that like, these are sort of like the aspects that, and also it draws

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out, you know, residual blood also, you know? If there is like a little bit of a blood line

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left in the fish, you know, you salt it and it draws that out a little bit more. It gives

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you really, really clean flavor of fish. And I think these sorts of things, it's like,

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it's super easy to fuck that up, you know? It's like you put a little bit too much salt

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on it and you leave it for two hours and you have semi-cured fish. Yeah, exactly. And if

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you don't clean the fish correctly, you know, you take the guts out the wrong way, you puncture

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the gallbladder, you know, your fish is going to taste awful. You can't fix that, you know,

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unless you put a ton of lemon on it. That's probably the reason the fish chef in a restaurant,

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it's always like a highly skilled chef, like someone who knows to do all of this properly,

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like, which is not easy at all. And also, and also because fish is very expensive, you

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know? So if you fuck it up, then you've wasted a lot of money. I wanted to tell a story about,

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like my favorite fish that I remember was something, nothing pretentious at all. Like

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there is a beach in Margarita Island in Venezuela, it's called Playa Parquito, and they would

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do this grilled fish inside like of banana plant leaves and ají dulce, they made like

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this. It was just ají dulce salt and kind of like a papillote, you know, and grilled.

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And the memory I have of this is amazing, you know? And I remember someone, I'm telling

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this because you said about that some fishes are leaner, others are fattier, and you have

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to understand your product and how to cook it and what to do with it. And you can't say

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one is better than the other, they're just different fishes, you know? And I remember

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someone telling like really pretentiously, like, no, as you know, Nordic fish is much

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better than the fish in the Caribbean. And I was like, what the fuck? Yeah, and this

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is scientifically provable because it's fattier and this and that. And I was like, okay, you

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can't say that, you know, like, not just like that. But anyways, yeah, like, I think it's

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important to understand the quality of the fish and what to do with it independently

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of that some are better or worse, you know, as long as you have a fresh product.

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Absolutely, yeah. And I think this whole idea of like fattier is better is really, like,

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is really superficial. I mean, you know, like, I think sushi is the perfect example for that,

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because if you think like, you know, like, let's say Western audience, you know, for

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them, what's their favorite sushi? It's the fatty otoro, you know, it's the fatty tuna.

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But if you ask a Japanese person or like somebody who's an expert, they find that the leaner

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tuna pieces are much more interesting than the and much more enjoyable often than the

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fatty tuna pieces. It's very easy to have something super fatty and it'd be tasty, you

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know, but that's just like, it's a very, like, it's a very brute way of nice, you know, like,

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I like it too, it's delicious. But, you know, if you have a really excellently prepared

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piece of, you know, katsu, there's like a lean sort of like smaller tuna, like a bonito,

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it's amazing, you know, and so this idea of fatty equals better. It's the same with beef,

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you know, it's still sort of like, oh, wagyu this, wagyu that. Yeah, wagyu is very tasty.

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But if you have, you know, like, I mean, you and me know, for me, one of the best beefs

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that I've eaten is the, is the, the Vagagallega, you know, the dairy cow. Yeah. And, and that's

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not particularly super fatty. Yeah. That's not like a particular expensive piece of special

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meat. That's just like a particular cut. That's it. Yeah. What about fish stock? What are

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your thoughts on that? You know, fish stock is really difficult because you also, you

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can't like making a nice fish stock is a bit of an art form, I think making stocks in general

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is a big art form, you know, it's not just throwing things into a pot and just bringing

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them to a boil. Not, I don't think you can make nice, you know, what we in French cooking

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we call a fumet, a nice clean white fish stock. You can't do that out of any sort of old fish,

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you know, for example, like odd and those sorts of things and carp and they don't work

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as they become too cloudy. But you know, I'm a big fan of making, you know, meat style

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sauces as in like, like how you would make a jus where you roast the bones and you make

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like a base and then you make like intense sort of glazes, but with fish bones, when

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you kind of like have the spines and you roast it really nicely, you have to be very careful

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with fish because it'll get really bitter very quickly. And then you make a base and

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you cook a sort of like butter, like a beurre blanc sauce, but with this roasted base, it's

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very, very, especially nice. That reminds me of the soup at Delcano, you know, the dark

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fish soup. Have you had it? I haven't had it now, unfortunately. Yeah. Like next time

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you go ask for it because it's like a, you know, a starter. It's just like a small bowl

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of super dark brown fish soup. Yeah. Nice. Amazing. You know, if you get that right,

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it's a revelation, but yeah, cooking fish soup, because you have all these like elements

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that can make it cloudy and smelly and it's like, it's not so easy. I mean, I like very

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much the way it's done here, like for salsa verde, you know, that's almost like a fish

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parsley infusion, you know, it's like a super light fish stock, you know, like, and quickly

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cooked and not letting it boil never, you know, like something really, really delicate.

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Being delicate is one of the key things like with preparing fish. You can't be rough. It

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has to be, you have to be deliberate, you know. One thing I also found really cool,

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what I saw in Japan is that they were keeping the, I think it was the bones of, I might

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be lying now, it was either fugu or it was unagi. I think it was unagi. I think it's

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the eel bones. And they were keeping the center bones and they were toasting them on the charcoal,

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like really lightly until they were like golden brown and then they put them in sake.

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I've worked in a place, we would do our own unagi sauce, like on the Yaki Tori grill.

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We would get like fresh eels from, from Northern Germany. And yeah, process the whole eel,

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roast the bones and making, as you said, like a dark fish sauce, but with eel. And this

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was amazing. Like I never had something like that.

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Super nice. Yeah. But I also, they put it in sake. It's like a thing that you like have

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then this like roasted fish bone sake and you have like a small shot of that. And that's

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also, that was super crazy. I was like, wow.

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You eat the roasted bones?

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No, you don't eat it. You just drink the flavored alcohol.

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Ah, okay. Ah, that's super interesting. That's super, super interesting.

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Yeah. I never saw that before.

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Yeah. That kind of reminds me for me, it was also revealing at the ramen place. The first

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time I saw rice tea and I was like, what is it? It was green tea and they would add roasted

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rice to the tea to give it right roasted rice flavor. I thought that was pretty cool as

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well.

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Yeah. That's called Genmaicha. It's really delicious. It's like such a, I remember when

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I tried it the first time, I thought it was really weird. Like, cause I couldn't relate

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to it, you know, but it's like now it's, it has this really homely feel, you know, just

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like roasted rice.

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Yeah. It's kind of like popcorns or something like that. Like roasted rice. Yeah.

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Super delicious.

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That's it for this week's episode of Potluck Food Talks. If you like what we're doing,

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make sure to subscribe to the podcast so you never miss an episode. You can also find us

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